Thanks for another video. If you didn't enter the quarantine car show I don't know if I would have found your channel. Keep this up if you can. Don't change a thing. Unless you want to of course! It's your channel!
GREAT INFO. Thanks for taking the time to show so much detail . I had a 450B Loader , I sold it and missed it so much , a few a days ago I picked up a 450C Dozer 6 way blade . It should arrive on my Island on 3/31. I am anxious to get it home pressure washed , serviced and start pushing some dirt . I appreciate the video's , Thank you
Good to hear from you my friend great video I feel the same way about how companies make it so hard to work on anything with special tools and what not take care buddy God bless
yup then with old iron its hard to find parts :( damned if you damned if you dont. you aint no true mechanic unless you modified wrenches or made your own. cheers. the ting is with some machines is theyre designed like that so it forces you to service all the stuff that has to come off. i know not everyone wants to do that but sometimes its just a necessary evil. like on my 7.3 for you to work on the motor comfortably you gotta pull the fan and rad and stand in the rad support. it makes a hell of a difference and all the angles just work better. so around the time you gotta work on the motor a coolant flush is normally required so it works well..
You can also rotate the engine using a screwdriver to lever on the teeth of the flywheel... It takes a while (but way easier and quicker than dropping the cowl). Love your channel
That wrench that you chopped up you can weld a straight short bar on the off set, the opposite side of the boxed end to give you more leverage, just an idea. Give it a thought might help! I swear sometimes engineers purposely design things in hopes that mechanics will blow a gasket.
Fuel filter is a Baldwin BF1212 fuel water separator. The head is available by Cummins/Fleet guard # 014278400 S. The head will have 3/4 O ring ports. I just found some 3/4 O ring to 6JIC fittings and made a bracket to hang off the intake. Next I swapped out the line from the tank to the lift pump with 8 JIC or AN braided stainless from Summit and 6Jic/AN from the lift pump to the filter head and the head to the injection pump. The 1/4" steel line that the dozer had originally would gel up in the sub zero temps. The 8 JIC is 1/2" dia and resists gelling by not being so tight. Easier to thaw and keep running in the winter
its been a few years, If I recall I used 8AN (1/2") from tank to lift pump and up to the BF 1212 Filter housing, Then 3/8"( 6AN) around the head to the injection pump. I was honestly trying to use up some spare line sections that were laying around, and provide alot of volume in the tank to filter line to prevent ice jams. Once the fuel flowed through the lift pump it would pick up some heat, same with the spin on filter housing being mounted on the intake, and finally running the line behind the head, it would pick up some heat to keep it thawed out enroute to the injection pump during the cold -20*F winters in Wyoming.
So happy 100👍 thanks for good video. My 310a backhoe got this injection pump. It starts and runs for 15-20 seconds and shuts off. Replaced fuel pump, I did check if I had a good flow from fuel tank, it's good, will replace three years old not much used fuel filter, and if it will be same I guess it's the injection pump? Any advise appreciated, thanks again.
John Deere !! Some of their engineering defies all logic,,, I'm fixing a 66 450 If you have ever worked on a Case 450 you will curse every moment you touch a JD check out my Case modifications on my Dozing for Dummies channel Thanks for your video !👍
On the left side of the engine, behind the injection pump, on the bell housing near the side of the block you will find a plate with a dimple on one end and a pin on the other. Held down with a 1/2 or 9/16 bolt. Unbolt that plate and under it is the timing hole. Loosen the #1 injector line and use a remote starter to bump the engine over till you see that #1 either squirt or you see a hole in the flywheel appear in the bell housing hole. If you miss it and see the squirt, remember it's a 4 stroke engine and you will have to bump the timing mark past the hole 3x to land on TDC again. Bumping it will get you close, so when it came into view for me I was ready with a big alignment punch to catch it. Now turn that afor said plate over and insert the pin in the flywheel hole, bolt it down and the engine is locked at TDC . Tag it out or disconnect the starter, as if it's bumped, the pin will shear off. Deere makes a barring tool to go in the starter location but it's awful $$$$. I tried to make my own from an old starter but gave up as it was taking too long. You can also tilt the cowling forward and grab the hydraulic pump driveshaft with a pipe wrench where it comes off the crank pulley. The scars of this were evident in mine when I got into it.
Definitely a pain but at least you don't have to deal with the modern JD stuff where they make it damn near impossible for the owner to fix it. I think they had a lawsuit brought against them because they were making farmers go broke.
Amen brother.. The lawsuit was just south of here in Iowa, called it the "right to repair" laws and was in the state bills for a while, havent heard anything recently. Cool electronic tom foolery is nice when you have someone next door who can fix it.. not out here in the stick where Im 75miles to the nearest Walmart.
Thanks for another video. If you didn't enter the quarantine car show I don't know if I would have found your channel. Keep this up if you can. Don't change a thing. Unless you want to of course! It's your channel!
GREAT INFO. Thanks for taking the time to show so much detail . I had a 450B Loader , I sold it and missed it so much , a few a days ago I picked up a 450C Dozer 6 way blade . It should arrive on my Island on 3/31. I am anxious to get it home pressure washed , serviced and start pushing some dirt . I appreciate the video's , Thank you
Good to hear from you my friend great video I feel the same way about how companies make it so hard to work on anything with special tools and what not take care buddy God bless
yup then with old iron its hard to find parts :( damned if you damned if you dont. you aint no true mechanic unless you modified wrenches or made your own. cheers. the ting is with some machines is theyre designed like that so it forces you to service all the stuff that has to come off. i know not everyone wants to do that but sometimes its just a necessary evil. like on my 7.3 for you to work on the motor comfortably you gotta pull the fan and rad and stand in the rad support. it makes a hell of a difference and all the angles just work better. so around the time you gotta work on the motor a coolant flush is normally required so it works well..
Very Helpful , Thanks ... I have a 450C
You can also rotate the engine using a screwdriver to lever on the teeth of the flywheel... It takes a while (but way easier and quicker than dropping the cowl). Love your channel
That wrench that you chopped up you can weld a straight short bar on the off set, the opposite side of the boxed end to give you more leverage, just an idea. Give it a thought might help! I swear sometimes engineers purposely design things in hopes that mechanics will blow a gasket.
Crowfeet attachment for a ratchet work just fine for the bottom mounting bolt, although I do agree the placement is inconvenient
What did that fuel filter come off of? Id like to take off the original style housing thats on my 450c and have something like you have.
Fuel filter is a Baldwin BF1212 fuel water separator. The head is available by Cummins/Fleet guard # 014278400 S.
The head will have 3/4 O ring ports. I just found some 3/4 O ring to 6JIC fittings and made a bracket to hang off the intake. Next I swapped out the line from the tank to the lift pump with 8 JIC or AN braided stainless from Summit and 6Jic/AN from the lift pump to the filter head and the head to the injection pump. The 1/4" steel line that the dozer had originally would gel up in the sub zero temps. The 8 JIC is 1/2" dia and resists gelling by not being so tight. Easier to thaw and keep running in the winter
All JD would have had to do is install taller T-fittings on that return line to clear those injector line nuts.
What size AN line did you use ??
its been a few years, If I recall I used 8AN (1/2") from tank to lift pump and up to the BF 1212 Filter housing, Then 3/8"( 6AN) around the head to the injection pump. I was honestly trying to use up some spare line sections that were laying around, and provide alot of volume in the tank to filter line to prevent ice jams. Once the fuel flowed through the lift pump it would pick up some heat, same with the spin on filter housing being mounted on the intake, and finally running the line behind the head, it would pick up some heat to keep it thawed out enroute to the injection pump during the cold -20*F winters in Wyoming.
So happy 100👍 thanks for good video. My 310a backhoe got this injection pump. It starts and runs for 15-20 seconds and shuts off. Replaced fuel pump, I did check if I had a good flow from fuel tank, it's good, will replace three years old not much used fuel filter, and if it will be same I guess it's the injection pump? Any advise appreciated, thanks again.
Aircraft hose into pump?
The mighty 450
John Deere !!
Some of their engineering defies all logic,,,
I'm fixing a 66 450
If you have ever worked on a Case 450 you will curse every moment you touch a JD
check out my Case modifications on my Dozing for Dummies channel
Thanks for your video !👍
where did you find a spot to rotate it by hand or other type of tool
On the left side of the engine, behind the injection pump, on the bell housing near the side of the block you will find a plate with a dimple on one end and a pin on the other. Held down with a 1/2 or 9/16 bolt. Unbolt that plate and under it is the timing hole. Loosen the #1 injector line and use a remote starter to bump the engine over till you see that #1 either squirt or you see a hole in the flywheel appear in the bell housing hole. If you miss it and see the squirt, remember it's a 4 stroke engine and you will have to bump the timing mark past the hole 3x to land on TDC again.
Bumping it will get you close, so when it came into view for me I was ready with a big alignment punch to catch it. Now turn that afor said plate over and insert the pin in the flywheel hole, bolt it down and the engine is locked at TDC . Tag it out or disconnect the starter, as if it's bumped, the pin will shear off. Deere makes a barring tool to go in the starter location but it's awful $$$$. I tried to make my own from an old starter but gave up as it was taking too long.
You can also tilt the cowling forward and grab the hydraulic pump driveshaft with a pipe wrench where it comes off the crank pulley. The scars of this were evident in mine when I got into it.
Definitely a pain but at least you don't have to deal with the modern JD stuff where they make it damn near impossible for the owner to fix it. I think they had a lawsuit brought against them because they were making farmers go broke.
Amen brother.. The lawsuit was just south of here in Iowa, called it the "right to repair" laws and was in the state bills for a while, havent heard anything recently. Cool electronic tom foolery is nice when you have someone next door who can fix it.. not out here in the stick where Im 75miles to the nearest Walmart.
@@roughcutranch6764 You said it! I'll stick with stuff that doesn't take a computer science degree to be able to change an injector.