2:30 When using a crows' foot adapter with a torque wrench, it's best to keep them at a 90-degree angle, otherwise you are either increasing or decreasing the applied torque, relative to the wrench setting.
Nice video. Just for future reference to all who wants to know, if wanting to get exact torque number in bicycle maintenance or any other type of maintenance. When a torque adapter like a crows foot wrench is being used. To get correct torque value without having to do a math conversion, is to keep the torque adapter (crows foot wrench) at 90 degrees to the torque wrench itself. If the adapter is straight inline or any other position other than 90 degrees there is a math conversion that is suppose to be used. On bicycles not to much to worry about, but in aviation, its a big deal to worry about. Thats the only reason i know about this. Always great videos from you.
If you're going to torque it, you should do it right. Crow's feet like that are usually 1" center to center (which helps keep the torque math easier) and it looks like he used a 6" or 8" wrench. Assuming 1" crow's foot and a 6" wrench (from the center of the socket to the middle of the handle), he only applied ~ 6.5 newton meters.
This video just made me so happy. I had only ever bled the brakes, never changed/cut or re-installed a brake so I had packed away all the parts that I’ve never used. I now have to shorten a cable and have been looking all over for an 8mm crows foot wrench…until now. Had no idea it was in the pack. Not only that but there are extra barbs and nuts. Thanks SRAM and most importantly thank you Clint! It’s happy a day. Couldn’t find that damn wrench anywhere 😆
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Are you aware Stealth a majig is not just a reusable barb and olive, it also has a valve in the lever that closes when the hose is removed so that you don't lose the fluid in the reservoir, when you screw the hose back on it pushes the valve open and allows fluid to flow again.
Great tip. It's always good to learn new things in mtb. I would've been stuck on this in the future hadn't I watched this. Thanks for the info and keep em comming.
one thing to stress (Cint touched on this a bit)...makes sure the compression fitting (red piece) goes on the correct way. You can install this backwards (like did by accident). couldn't understand why i could not bleed the brakes..couldn't get any fluid movement through the lever. wasted about 30-45min figuring out what the hell i did wrong. The barb needs to be flush with the end of comppression fitting. barb needs to make contact with inside of lever (at least on a sram axs red lever)....uggg
@@nathantaylor9896 if you put the red collar piece on backwards…you will not be able to assemble the brake line into the lever. Simply reinstall it the core t way. At the time I didn’t realize it could go on backward….and took me awhile to figure it out.
Great video! I know you can't reuse the red olive because it compresses onto the hose. I have a new road handlebar and have to route hose through the opening and olive has to be removed in order to do this. I didn't have to cut hose so the barb is still on. Once hose is routed, just use a new olive and rebleed?
You can take the hose out of the lever and then put it back in with the same olive. The only time you have to put a new olive on is if you have to remove the old one to route cable through a frame.
The red olive I got with my rival group set seems too small to screw into the barb to get the barb flush with the olive,it doesn't seem wide enough to fit I over the barb,anyone have any ideas ? Thanks
Great video! Thanks for posting. Perfect timing as I need to shorten the brake cables for a new set of Code R brakes. Is it possible to reuse the Stealthamajig and olive when shortening cables on an unused set of brakes?
When you put the olive in it looked like you just pushed it in to a random depth. I assume in there I will feel some resistance and it kind of snaps in?
Nice video, thank you. I know that this needs to be done on the rear brakes in order to do internal routing. But does it need to be done on the front brake as well?
My SRAM Apex has those connectors. So my understanding is, if I want to insert the brake cable into frame body, i simply unthread the red connector right? Btw tq sir Clinton, i m auto subecribed when i first see ur video
I don't think so. When you tighten the cable the olive will press into the cable to make a tight seal. Once that happens I don't think you're going to be able to unthread it. If the frame has larger ports like you have on Niner and Giant you can push the hole hose through with the olive on. If it's a very tight port then you would have to cut the tip of the hose off and then thread in a new hose barb and olive.
Christopher McGlaughlin Thanks a lot, „crows foot“ was the term I was looking for. Hard to find something if you don’t know it’s name. For Shimano it is 8mm.
I have a set of Level brakes with stealth a majig already installed and working, but I want to swap them to a new set of G2 RS. Am I able to keep the fitting in the brake line as is and just attach it to the new lever and caliper?
Question: Hi there, i know both srams and br90 hose is 5mm outside dimensions, is it the same 2.1mm inside dimension also? I have a ultegra di2 bike i want to fit sram force etap axs on and are hoping the shimano hose will work.
Probably doesn't much help you 3 years after the fact, but if someone else is thinking about the same thing, I would not. Even if the inside diameter was the same, the Shimano brakes use mineral oil and SRAM uses brake fluid (I know they just introduced brakes using mineral oil, but if you have SRAM brakes, they are very likely to use brake fluid).
Clint - I followed this procedure and got all the air bubbles out. First time for me to have SRAM brakes. Put the tire back on and when I squeeze the lever it goes all the way to the grip. Did the bleed again and it got better, but still not what I was expecting. is this just SRAM brakes? How do I adjust the contact on Guide R without the little wheel thingy on the lever?
There's really no other way to adjust the contact other than introducing more fluid into the system. You could try getting a thinner bleed block. I was just having a discussion with the subscriber about that the other day. It's not something I've done but it is a possibility. You'll know if the bleed went well if, when it does make contact, the lever does not feel spongy.
stealthmajig, special DOT compatible grease, special adapter, .new tools.. the idea should be to keep things simple not overcomplicate and overengineer them more. Shimano has this dialed down, SRAM not so.
2:30 When using a crows' foot adapter with a torque wrench, it's best to keep them at a 90-degree angle, otherwise you are either increasing or decreasing the applied torque, relative to the wrench setting.
It makes no difference....torque is torque....
Nice video. Just for future reference to all who wants to know, if wanting to get exact torque number in bicycle maintenance or any other type of maintenance. When a torque adapter like a crows foot wrench is being used. To get correct torque value without having to do a math conversion, is to keep the torque adapter (crows foot wrench) at 90 degrees to the torque wrench itself. If the adapter is straight inline or any other position other than 90 degrees there is a math conversion that is suppose to be used. On bicycles not to much to worry about, but in aviation, its a big deal to worry about. Thats the only reason i know about this. Always great videos from you.
If you're going to torque it, you should do it right. Crow's feet like that are usually 1" center to center (which helps keep the torque math easier) and it looks like he used a 6" or 8" wrench. Assuming 1" crow's foot and a 6" wrench (from the center of the socket to the middle of the handle), he only applied ~ 6.5 newton meters.
Exactly what sent me to the comments. A bit finicky as you get it threaded on but definitely needs to be at 90 when you set the final torque
This video just made me so happy. I had only ever bled the brakes, never changed/cut or re-installed a brake so I had packed away all the parts that I’ve never used. I now have to shorten a cable and have been looking all over for an 8mm crows foot wrench…until now. Had no idea it was in the pack. Not only that but there are extra barbs and nuts. Thanks SRAM and most importantly thank you Clint! It’s happy a day. Couldn’t find that damn wrench anywhere 😆
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Are you aware Stealth a majig is not just a reusable barb and olive, it also has a valve in the lever that closes when the hose is removed so that you don't lose the fluid in the reservoir, when you screw the hose back on it pushes the valve open and allows fluid to flow again.
Stealthamajig is also backwards compatible to the older brakes
Thanks, was trying to find this out
Great tip. It's always good to learn new things in mtb. I would've been stuck on this in the future hadn't I watched this. Thanks for the info and keep em comming.
Dear Clint, Thank you for making this video!
one thing to stress (Cint touched on this a bit)...makes sure the compression fitting (red piece) goes on the correct way. You can install this backwards (like did by accident). couldn't understand why i could not bleed the brakes..couldn't get any fluid movement through the lever. wasted about 30-45min figuring out what the hell i did wrong. The barb needs to be flush with the end of comppression fitting. barb needs to make contact with inside of lever (at least on a sram axs red lever)....uggg
mmh that is probably my issue/ spent hours on it
When you did this was the lever okay after?
@@nathantaylor9896 if you put the red collar piece on backwards…you will not be able to assemble the brake line into the lever. Simply reinstall it the core t way. At the time I didn’t realize it could go on backward….and took me awhile to figure it out.
That's quite a clever system, thanks for explaining, good video
Great video! I know you can't reuse the red olive because it compresses onto the hose. I have a new road handlebar and have to route hose through the opening and olive has to be removed in order to do this. I didn't have to cut hose so the barb is still on. Once hose is routed, just use a new olive and rebleed?
You can take the hose out of the lever and then put it back in with the same olive. The only time you have to put a new olive on is if you have to remove the old one to route cable through a frame.
Thank you! This helped me realize what I was doing wrong!
Nice vídeo, I want this now for instalation Sram Level Brakes
The red olive I got with my rival group set seems too small to screw into the barb to get the barb flush with the olive,it doesn't seem wide enough to fit I over the barb,anyone have any ideas ? Thanks
mine was the same. ended up ruining the master cylinder. had to buy a new lever assembly.
Can you specify what kind of grease is a Dot compatible grease? Thank you
Which dot compatible grease do you use?
Excellent and folks do not forget the grease it will not compress properly without it word
Great video! Thanks for posting. Perfect timing as I need to shorten the brake cables for a new set of Code R brakes. Is it possible to reuse the Stealthamajig and olive when shortening cables on an unused set of brakes?
No, it compresses into the line so you can't remove it. You have to have a new olive and hose barb.
@@ClintGibbs Got it. Thanks for responding so quickly.
When you put the olive in it looked like you just pushed it in to a random depth. I assume in there I will feel some resistance and it kind of snaps in?
You push it into the lever until it stops. But turning the compression nut will push it where it needs to go.
Good info, man.
Thanks now I can sort mine out 👍
Nice video, thank you. I know that this needs to be done on the rear brakes in order to do internal routing. But does it need to be done on the front brake as well?
Usually only for new brakes because the hose is typically longer than it needs to be.
Good lord, thank you!!!
Hi, how would I re-thread a mtb hydraulic brake lever?
Good. Helpful. Informative.
So, If I'm just swapping my Sram Code brakes from frame to frame without shortening, I should be able to unscrew / re-use this fitting then, right?
Correct
My SRAM Apex has those connectors. So my understanding is, if I want to insert the brake cable into frame body, i simply unthread the red connector right? Btw tq sir Clinton, i m auto subecribed when i first see ur video
I don't think so. When you tighten the cable the olive will press into the cable to make a tight seal. Once that happens I don't think you're going to be able to unthread it. If the frame has larger ports like you have on Niner and Giant you can push the hole hose through with the olive on. If it's a very tight port then you would have to cut the tip of the hose off and then thread in a new hose barb and olive.
Where can I get one of these torque wrench spanner heads? I can’t find them for normal wrenches...
Search for quarter inch drive crows foot. Not sure which size Sram uses. Probably 8mm.
Christopher McGlaughlin Thanks a lot, „crows foot“ was the term I was looking for. Hard to find something if you don’t know it’s name. For Shimano it is 8mm.
Thank you for this info!
If I’m changing my Sram levers do I need to change the stealth a majig olive into new ones..?
No, you would only need to do that if you have to cut the hoses.
thank you
awesome. subscribed
My brakes don't make that noise @ 2:32.
great info. sram needs to throw you some $$$$$
I have a set of Level brakes with stealth a majig already installed and working, but I want to swap them to a new set of G2 RS. Am I able to keep the fitting in the brake line as is and just attach it to the new lever and caliper?
I'm almost positive you can. I've never made that swap (from Level to G2) so if it were me I would call SRAM to make sure.
Great vid. Thanks!
Question: Hi there, i know both srams and br90 hose is 5mm outside dimensions, is it the same 2.1mm inside dimension also? I have a ultegra di2 bike i want to fit sram force etap axs on and are hoping the shimano hose will work.
Probably doesn't much help you 3 years after the fact, but if someone else is thinking about the same thing, I would not. Even if the inside diameter was the same, the Shimano brakes use mineral oil and SRAM uses brake fluid (I know they just introduced brakes using mineral oil, but if you have SRAM brakes, they are very likely to use brake fluid).
Hello, do you know the threads of compressor nut?
I'm sorry, I don't. Perhaps if you email SRAM they may tell you
@@ClintGibbs thanks you
is this reusable?
I have not tried to unscrew one and use it in another hose but I would imagine you could. The olive is not reusable, as that presses into the hose.
@@ClintGibbs i mean the olive needle? can be used again?
Clint - I followed this procedure and got all the air bubbles out. First time for me to have SRAM brakes. Put the tire back on and when I squeeze the lever it goes all the way to the grip. Did the bleed again and it got better, but still not what I was expecting. is this just SRAM brakes? How do I adjust the contact on Guide R without the little wheel thingy on the lever?
There's really no other way to adjust the contact other than introducing more fluid into the system. You could try getting a thinner bleed block. I was just having a discussion with the subscriber about that the other day. It's not something I've done but it is a possibility. You'll know if the bleed went well if, when it does make contact, the lever does not feel spongy.
0:45
stealthmajig, special DOT compatible grease, special adapter, .new tools.. the idea should be to keep things simple not overcomplicate and overengineer them more. Shimano has this dialed down, SRAM not so.
I found that with the newer technologies with SRAM brakes they are easier to work on than Shimano. I still prefer mineral oil over DOT fluid any day.
Too much hardware for what should be simple bicycle brakes. I think I will stick with the rim brakes on my lightweight road bike.
Or stop being a dinosaur and move with the times?
How are your brakes doing now it's 2024 ?
@@palaHD Still working just fine. Disc brakes are way overrated at least on road bikes.
Nice to see the Sram employee forced to use that terrible little torx wrench. The worst tool in my toolbox.
Oh and SRAM says put a wee bit of grease on the olive yo