Thanks! My strongest recommendation: build it stock at first, then figure out what you want to mod from there. If this is your first DIY printer, you will learn lots. The Voron Discord server is full of friendly people willing to help with any questions you may have.
@@oldguymeltsplastic I've heard the "build stock first" advice and plan on doing that. But it's sooo hard not going straight to canbus, etc! I only plan on some QOL upgrades right away. Camera, etc
Canbus is great but not for beginners. I went back to stock after my fiasco, I might try again with my next V2 though as much has improved @@therick0996
thats normal with smartphone cameras when getting close, its less noticeable with iPhone but if you want to completely eliminate it (which i highly suggest) you will need to force using only 1 lens somehow or just using a DSLR.
@@itz_lexiii_yep, iPhones are usually very smart about it and hide the transition very smoothly. Seems that the Samsung implementation is shoddy at best
I had just done the 3do usb/can cable mod, looking through this video -- correct me if I'm missing something, but the pink and purple cables are the 24awg non-twisted pair running down the middle of the cable, the yellow/blue, white/green are the 26awg twisted pairs -- so for can-h/l you want to use the twisted pair and for usb rx/tx you want to use the other twisted pair -- and the ping/purple are for usb power, at least that's what I did after digging through the 3do docs about the cable. I ended up using lower profile pg7 glands, so I should not be losing any build height -- no sure I am too concerned about that since I also rebuilt a my first diy printer -- a large delta with 670 effective build height, so i need something tall, I can use that. PS -- I also did the cpap mod, and the cooling is fantastic, I ended doing all new cad for that since I wanted to do the knomi and cpap and keep the exhaust fan with filter, and that combo didn't exist to my liking. Curious what your input shaping look like -- do you notice a change with light weight x gantry vs going back to the extrusion. I'm considering getting aluminum a/b mounts -- wonder if it's worth it.
Debating between 6 mm belts, which will allow me to keep my existing CNC XY joints, or 9 mm belts, which will need new printed XY joints, probably AE Trailhead.
I had the same issue with my belts using the same idlers. I hadn't tensioned the two bolts on the idlers evenly and it was causing the bearing stack to become tilted/cocked and caused the belts to ride up on the flanges.
Yeah, all of the motion parts are aligned properly, but I had some toolhead crashes into the frame while dialing in sensorless homing, and the belts loosened.
I'm sourcing parts for my first Voron 2.4 350. I think I'm also going for the Dragon Burner. Can you recommend a good price/quality extruder and hotend? I'm kinda numbed by all the choices I'm having to make 😂 BTW, thanks for the awesome content!
Hello! Are there any problems with the rigidity of the lightweight X-axis? I'm going to use it together with Tap and I have big doubts that there will be strong vibrations when moving along the Y axis.
I just purchased a 2.4 after watching your channel. Do those under bed fans actually help with chamber temperatures? I seem to be maxing out at 45c in the chamber during a long print.
Hope you don't end up regretting your purchase and blame me. 🤣 The bed fans help to more evenly distribute the heat throughout the build area. My peak chamber temperature hasn't really changed, but I get to that peak temperature faster. I usually run at about 60-65C chamber.
@@oldguymeltsplastic 🤣I'm trying to copy your build and slowly realizing that I need to chill out a bit. There are so many mods you've done, down to the little details. Maybe I need to seal my 2.4 better for the chamber temps.
Been following your mods for the 2.4 and ... pretty damn cool man. I think i have the same xy joints but i was only able to make it work with a stack of f695 bearings, did you modded in some way to fit the iddlers?. Loved the video.
sherpa mini vs g2sa and why did you switch. does g2sa provide any advantages over sherpa mini ? also how does one attach the btt ebb36 can to sherpa mini on the top ?
@@oldguymeltsplastic would Orbiter Extruder V2.0 be a good choice as well compared to G2SA and Sherpa Mini , I have it available locally the Orbiter 2 (LDO and Moons brand kit)
Good question, I hear good things about the Orbiter (it's a very similar design to the Galileo 2, only with different gearing), but I have no personal experience with it.
What are your shaper values? I didn’t save much from switching from stealthburner to the dragonburner. Weight is 80g less. I’m using same funssor aluminum cnc AB and x parts. I also tried the lighter x beam but didn’t improve much either. The GE5C mod improved about ~20% acceleration. So now on the x I have mzv 12k but on the y only 7k also mzv
My IS results are similar to yours. I was able to improve them a little bit by adjusting the AB belt tension higher. Hoping that the AWD mod will help that somewhat.
@@oldguymeltsplasticI'm going to change the MGN12 for a MGN9, I redesigned the X_carriage to support MGN9 and the beacon and got it down to 15g (maybe too light :) ) . I'll let you know how it goes, and I'll share the onshape in case you want to give it a try. BTW I installed the beacon because I saw it in your channel, and it's awesome. Thank you for sharing your videos
@@oldguymeltsplastic, I have an update. TLDR; I didn't get any improvements at all :( I redesign the x-carrige for the MGN9, but still polishing some printing accuracy issues as the belts are require to be attached differently. I also have to redesign the EBB36 lgxlite support because the center of mass with the dragonburner is too high and produced oscillation on the z-axis when moving on the y-axis. So, I had to attach the EBB36 support to the x-carriage. It sucks because it needs to be attached from behind. Now the x and y axis graphs look like a Dirac delta!! amazing I reduced: - 121g from the MGN12 to MGN9 - 138g from the aluminum extrusion to the light extrussion like the one you're using - 23g frm the x-carriage Total: 282g!!!! Input-shaper results: - x-axis: ~5%, as expected by the 23g + the linear rail carriage weight 10g - y-axis: ~1% :( Quality: I think now I can print at 7k with almost no ringing affected by y-axis. So I would say it improved. At this point I think I'm limited by something else, the y-carriage is super smooth, no bindings, rack is square, pringing is perfect. probably the wire loom issues? I don't know If you want I can give you full access to the onshape design. I have a bunch of other mods, I should put them in git. I used to put stuff in my TH-cam channel with my daughter th-cam.com/video/yrI_C9hVV4M/w-d-xo.html, but she's now doing her Ms in ECE :(. life pass soo fast
The G2SA version of the assembly manual hasn't been released yet. I was able to assemble it fairly easily using the G2E manual, and my experience with other DIY extruders.
People build DIY 3D printers for different reasons. For me the modding of my printer offers me many learning experiences, and teaches me some of what makes 3D printers work. The popularity of Voron printers means there are lots of mods out there to try. That's not to say they are the best designs, but maybe one of the more accessible ones from the standpoint of modding. You absolutely should build the printer that YOU want.
My 2.4 kit arrives tomorrow. Your channel has been a huge inspiration
Thanks! My strongest recommendation: build it stock at first, then figure out what you want to mod from there. If this is your first DIY printer, you will learn lots. The Voron Discord server is full of friendly people willing to help with any questions you may have.
@@oldguymeltsplastic I've heard the "build stock first" advice and plan on doing that. But it's sooo hard not going straight to canbus, etc! I only plan on some QOL upgrades right away. Camera, etc
Canbus is great but not for beginners. I went back to stock after my fiasco, I might try again with my next V2 though as much has improved
@@therick0996
going to have to move your raspi-cam for awd. Can't wait to see the awd. Was something I've always wanted to do.
Still waiting on some pulleys to arrive, so it will be a bit before the AWD mod is installed.
The same thing happened with my belts ridding up on the pully, but in my case it happened in the rear pully by the A motor.
nice video.
🍻
Thanks!
Super cool upgrades! Your camera/phone is doing some funky stuff, I kinda looks like it’s switching between which lens it’s shooting from.
It's a Samsung S23. Probably happened when I moved in too close.
thats normal with smartphone cameras when getting close, its less noticeable with iPhone but if you want to completely eliminate it (which i highly suggest) you will need to force using only 1 lens somehow or just using a DSLR.
@@itz_lexiii_yep, iPhones are usually very smart about it and hide the transition very smoothly. Seems that the Samsung implementation is shoddy at best
I had just done the 3do usb/can cable mod, looking through this video -- correct me if I'm missing something, but the pink and purple cables are the 24awg non-twisted pair running down the middle of the cable, the yellow/blue, white/green are the 26awg twisted pairs -- so for can-h/l you want to use the twisted pair and for usb rx/tx you want to use the other twisted pair -- and the ping/purple are for usb power, at least that's what I did after digging through the 3do docs about the cable. I ended up using lower profile pg7 glands, so I should not be losing any build height -- no sure I am too concerned about that since I also rebuilt a my first diy printer -- a large delta with 670 effective build height, so i need something tall, I can use that. PS -- I also did the cpap mod, and the cooling is fantastic, I ended doing all new cad for that since I wanted to do the knomi and cpap and keep the exhaust fan with filter, and that combo didn't exist to my liking. Curious what your input shaping look like -- do you notice a change with light weight x gantry vs going back to the extrusion. I'm considering getting aluminum a/b mounts -- wonder if it's worth it.
That's a lot to unpack... 🤣
Cant wait to see the AWD mod!
Debating between 6 mm belts, which will allow me to keep my existing CNC XY joints, or 9 mm belts, which will need new printed XY joints, probably AE Trailhead.
@@oldguymeltsplastic6mm should be fine for a build of this size.
@@twanheijkoop6753 6 mm = fine, 9 mm = better
I had the same issue with my belts using the same idlers. I hadn't tensioned the two bolts on the idlers evenly and it was causing the bearing stack to become tilted/cocked and caused the belts to ride up on the flanges.
Yeah, all of the motion parts are aligned properly, but I had some toolhead crashes into the frame while dialing in sensorless homing, and the belts loosened.
I'm sourcing parts for my first Voron 2.4 350. I think I'm also going for the Dragon Burner. Can you recommend a good price/quality extruder and hotend? I'm kinda numbed by all the choices I'm having to make 😂
BTW, thanks for the awesome content!
Extruders: Sherpa Mini is good, Galileo 2 Standalone is better.
Hotends: Rapido 2 is probably my top pick. Revo HF is a close second.
Hello! Are there any problems with the rigidity of the lightweight X-axis? I'm going to use it together with Tap and I have big doubts that there will be strong vibrations when moving along the Y axis.
I didn't see much improvement with this lightweight gantry, so I ended up reverting to the original 2020 extrusion.
@@oldguymeltsplastic Thank you!
I just purchased a 2.4 after watching your channel. Do those under bed fans actually help with chamber temperatures? I seem to be maxing out at 45c in the chamber during a long print.
Hope you don't end up regretting your purchase and blame me. 🤣
The bed fans help to more evenly distribute the heat throughout the build area. My peak chamber temperature hasn't really changed, but I get to that peak temperature faster.
I usually run at about 60-65C chamber.
@@oldguymeltsplastic 🤣I'm trying to copy your build and slowly realizing that I need to chill out a bit. There are so many mods you've done, down to the little details. Maybe I need to seal my 2.4 better for the chamber temps.
@@jinetix I am probably going to get blasted for saying this, but I don't bother heatsoaking for any of my prints. Don't go chasing unicorns.
What filament brand and colors did you use? That blue is amazing
Printed parts are in Sparta3D.ca's Sparkle ASA Sky Blue and Purple Mist.
Been following your mods for the 2.4 and ... pretty damn cool man. I think i have the same xy joints but i was only able to make it work with a stack of f695 bearings, did you modded in some way to fit the iddlers?. Loved the video.
I bought toothed idlers that were less tall, and so fit in the space available on those pins.
Hey, where can I find the files for that EBB36 mount?
I use one of Chirpy's designs from here:
github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/general/PCB_Mounts
Can you make a tutorial for the AWD mod once you get everything set up?
Will do!
sherpa mini vs g2sa and why did you switch. does g2sa provide any advantages over sherpa mini ?
also how does one attach the btt ebb36 can to sherpa mini on the top ?
G2SA gives me much better layer stacking. There are many PCB mounts from Chirpy, KayosMaker, and others.
@@oldguymeltsplastic would Orbiter Extruder V2.0 be a good choice as well compared to G2SA and Sherpa Mini , I have it available locally the Orbiter 2 (LDO and Moons brand kit)
Good question, I hear good things about the Orbiter (it's a very similar design to the Galileo 2, only with different gearing), but I have no personal experience with it.
What are your shaper values? I didn’t save much from switching from stealthburner to the dragonburner. Weight is 80g less. I’m using same funssor aluminum cnc AB and x parts. I also tried the lighter x beam but didn’t improve much either. The GE5C mod improved about ~20% acceleration. So now on the x I have mzv 12k but on the y only 7k also mzv
My IS results are similar to yours. I was able to improve them a little bit by adjusting the AB belt tension higher. Hoping that the AWD mod will help that somewhat.
@@oldguymeltsplasticI'm going to change the MGN12 for a MGN9, I redesigned the X_carriage to support MGN9 and the beacon and got it down to 15g (maybe too light :) ) . I'll let you know how it goes, and I'll share the onshape in case you want to give it a try. BTW I installed the beacon because I saw it in your channel, and it's awesome. Thank you for sharing your videos
@@arielbernal look forward to hearing about your results!
@@oldguymeltsplastic, I have an update. TLDR; I didn't get any improvements at all :(
I redesign the x-carrige for the MGN9, but still polishing some printing accuracy issues as the belts are require to be attached differently.
I also have to redesign the EBB36 lgxlite support because the center of mass with the dragonburner is too high and produced oscillation on the z-axis when moving on the y-axis.
So, I had to attach the EBB36 support to the x-carriage. It sucks because it needs to be attached from behind. Now the x and y axis graphs look like a Dirac delta!! amazing
I reduced:
- 121g from the MGN12 to MGN9
- 138g from the aluminum extrusion to the light extrussion like the one you're using
- 23g frm the x-carriage
Total: 282g!!!!
Input-shaper results:
- x-axis: ~5%, as expected by the 23g + the linear rail carriage weight 10g
- y-axis: ~1% :(
Quality: I think now I can print at 7k with almost no ringing affected by y-axis. So I would say it improved.
At this point I think I'm limited by something else, the y-carriage is super smooth, no bindings, rack is square, pringing is perfect.
probably the wire loom issues? I don't know
If you want I can give you full access to the onshape design. I have a bunch of other mods, I should put them in git. I used to put stuff in my TH-cam channel with my daughter th-cam.com/video/yrI_C9hVV4M/w-d-xo.html, but she's now doing her Ms in ECE :(. life pass soo fast
@@arielbernal yes, please do share! Find me on Discord as OldGuyMeltsPlastic.
I see a k3 style door there. Nice choice
Yeah, it's solid, seals well with an nice audible "thud" when the two magnet catches connect.
@@oldguymeltsplastic got one to install myself. Just waiting for bearings to deliver. 6mm policarbonate is super thick
How are your motors making that noise?
Not sure what you mean?
its making a buzz noise when homing. it doesnt sound like a stepper motor
@@oldguymeltsplastic
What brand is the cnc x gantry?
It's this one: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005603078879.html
Do you have Voron Tap on the toolhead ?
No, just Beacon.
@@oldguymeltsplastic Can you do QGL with Beacon. I'm considering changing the toolhead.
Hi is there any assemble for the gaelileo 2 (g2sa)
The G2SA version of the assembly manual hasn't been released yet. I was able to assemble it fairly easily using the G2E manual, and my experience with other DIY extruders.
@@oldguymeltsplastic what i am confused is the tensioner arm am i suppose to put a bearing in the hole?
@@halcyonspree1523 that's correct
@@oldguymeltsplastic then how is the gear grip the filament?
@@halcyonspree1523 using pressure I would assume. Best to ask the designer.
Guy's voice remind me of 3dgameman
Upgrades for upgrades. People fix voron 2.4 but don't want build good not voron printer
People build DIY 3D printers for different reasons. For me the modding of my printer offers me many learning experiences, and teaches me some of what makes 3D printers work. The popularity of Voron printers means there are lots of mods out there to try. That's not to say they are the best designs, but maybe one of the more accessible ones from the standpoint of modding.
You absolutely should build the printer that YOU want.
what mgn rail do you use for x axis?
I am stuck on rapid burner and tap not being able to upgrade because of my MGN12 rail
Mine is a single front mounted MGN9H rail.