I realized I could just press my palm down onto the top of the cap, like really putting my weight on it, and then use the friction between my palm and the cap to twist it off. Took a few good turns, but I got it! 😀
Great couple of videos on applying danish oil, thank you! All I've done with the stuff so far is test it on some scrap pieces of my project, but I can tell that it's what I want to use. I have a question though. Any advice on the ideal grit to sand down to before applying it? I'm making a semi-ornamental box out of brazillian cherry to store my sharpening stones. Since I'm going for a bit of a fancy look, I want it to be fairly smooth, like 400-600 grit, but I'm concerned that the smoother surface will inhibit the oil soaking in. Also curious if it would work if I decided to go nuts and give it a hand plane finish. Thanks 🙂
I had a project made out of walnut that I tried finishing with watco danish oil and it ended up being sticky could not figure out why? I followed the cans directions, I ended up wiping the " uncured danish oil" off with mineral spirits after like a week of of drying time. I thought it was expired or no good for whatever reason. so after watching you video I did no realize you had to continually wipe the wood that many and length of times to get a proper finish. Your the first person to explain the proper way to apply this stuff. Great job
Thanks for the video, I like your demeanor. I'll probably pick up some natural Danish oil and then try mixing in my own stains/dyes if I feel like it. It's annoying wiping any solvent based finish over a stain since the solvents pull up the stain. Having it mixed into the finish will lock it in as each coat cures.
Using this oil on a Grandfather clock I have built. Red Oak…..I can’t believe how much seepage there is. It madding, ever two to three hours wiping it down, two days into it….WILL IT EVER STOP! I may start drilling and sell oil stock. 😜
I just spent a week designing and building a couple of unique calendar frames out of big box select pine wood. They came out great. However finishing them, can be nerve-wracking. From what I've seen on TH-cam, Danish Oil, seemed like a great idea. Looked very easy to apply! However I used a dark walnut danish Oil. After applying in the manner suggested, the finish looks horrible. It is very blotchy. Before applying, I started by sanding with 80, 120,180, and 220. i wiped it down with a tack cloth. The wood was ready, however and It came out looking very Blotchy!!! It looks like a leopard print. From what you said, I can sand it with 500 grit paper then reapply?!? If you have any other suggests, please let me know!!! The one thing you didn't mention was how the ends of the board suck up the oil and are considerably darker than the rest of the wood!!! Look forward to hearing from you.
Sorry to hear that Danasaunders. Pine is a tough wood to stain. One of the reasons I only use the natural Danish Oil. anytime you use stain on soft wood you run the chance of have some blotchy (actually most likely). You will have to sand it down and there are some product out there to apply first before adding any stain, such as this: amzn.to/3uCbrpA. There are many pre-stains that will help to prevent the blotchy stuff. Just make sure it will work with the danish oil. All stains will go darker on the end grain. One thing that can help a little is sand the ends with a finer girt sandpaper so that it won't suck in so much stain. Good luck with it.
We used Danish oil on an old hardwood floor in our living room (after sanding well), and it turned out beautifully. In the bedroom, my husband sanded the floor until it was free of the old finish (and any color), so he insisted on staining the floor first. We used water-based stain. Can we still finish the floor with Danish oil after staining?
I never tried it on a floor, but as lone as the stain didn't seal the wood, it should work. But I would try it on a scrap piece of wood first and see how it works. Good luck with it.
Hello sir, Great info. I am wondering what your thoughts are on applying lacquer on top of danish oil. It is for a pies which will be living outside. Can it be done without ruining the danish oil, and make it more durable against the weather. Thanks for your videos.
You can also take the metal cap out of the plastic safety cap (if you don't have anyone in your house this could be a hazard to). This leaves the old fashion metal looking cap that screws & unscrews regularly w/o the safety feature.
if im using this on a butcher block for a desk top should I fully finish coating one side and then work on the other rather continually flipping as you are
I would flip it. There is really no reason not to because you end up wiping it off as the last step. Just make sure it is sitting on something like pint pyramids so it won't stick.
I’m about to do this with a butcher block, did you end up doing both sides? I only have a pint of watco and I really don’t want to be flipping it constantly, as my 5ft block weighs nearly 100 pounds
It will soak in and leave very little texture, with he way I use it. It comes out smooth. But I am sure that can change with a different way of application, but I know how to do them.
Thanks for the video! I have some reclaimed line that I made a picture frame out of. I’d like to keep the wood tone very close to the natural color. Would you recommend the danish oil for that or something different?
Thank you very much for the helpful video. May I ask how you would advise to clean the furniture/cabinets once the Watco Oil has been applied? Would wiping down with a damp (with water) cloth from time to time be the best solution? Thank you.
Would the oil work well on a golden oak table top that isn't fully sanded. Some of the old finish is still on and it isn't uniform. Will a coat or two of the oil make it all look uniform???
Very informative. Thanks for posting this. I’m a novice wannabe. I love the look of unfinished poplar from my local big box stores. I’ve made a couple pf table tops that I need to finish and was thinking either danish oil or toug oil. Can you share some thoughts please?
I only used toug oil twice a long time ago. From what I remember I liked the Danish Oil better, I felt that it gave me a nicer look and seems easier to apply. But I am not sure if one is really better than the other.
I have a sideboard that was refinished using WATCO Danish Oil. I would like to paint the base of the sideboard with chalk paint and leave the cabinets and drawers fronts natural walnut. How do I prepare the sideboard before using the chalk paint?
I just used danish oil to finish a kitchen countertop. Now I’m worried I should have gone with a food safe sealer. Any thoughts on danish oil on kitchen counters with a sink?
The nice thing is you can use just about any countertop sealer over the danish oil. I would try to put some type of food safe finish on top of it and it will also make it much durable.
One approach for the cap is to wipe clean the threaded neck of the container and the inside of the cap so that no Watco will dry at these points of contact. Question: Have you ever laid down a coating or two of shellac over Watco.
I have not, but I don't see why that would not work. Test first on a scrape piece of wood, that is what I always do when I try something new in finishing.
This a great video! Thank you! I will be using fruitwood Watco Danish oil on purchased unfinished maple cabinets. I have read to lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper prior to applying the finish as it has already been sanded by the manufacturer. Do you agree with that? Is hand sanding fine to do. I have read an orbital sander may leave scratches. Also, I may want to do more than one coat to deepen the color. (I know you only use the natural Danish oil.) Do I need to sand between coats? Any other suggestions for me. I am new at this. I appreciate any suggestions you can give me. Thank you!
Good question, I only sand to 220 when you go finer, depending on the wood, the oil does not penetrated as deep. Danish oil's finish is by penetrating into the wood, it doesn't sit on top like other finishes. It does offer some protection but not as much as say poly. Hand sanding is fine and going to 400 will be ok to do. I use an orbital sander only on the cabinets and with my last pass, the only pressure on the sanding pad is from the weigh of the sander, I don't push down on the orbital sander. You can do more than one coat but after about two it will not soak in anymore so I don't think you will get any deeper color. But I am not sure on that one. I would try a number of coats on a scrape piece and see how it does each time. Good luck with your project and thank for watching.
Help me! I stained my butcher block and then went to use my danish oil but accidentally used butcher block oil for the first coat, can I use danish oil after?
as long as you are not using a colored danish oil, you can apply it over the top of that. But you will need to let is dry completely (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Then I would give it a good sanding before applying the Danish Oil Just to make sure.
Not really, the only thing that I can think of is that both are a type of penetrating oil and if you use Danish oil, that has penetrated the wood. There may not be much ability for the Teak oil to soak into the wood. But I have never tried that so I am not sure about the results. Try it on some scraps of the same type of wood first and see what it does.
I used it on mine, and then covered it with wipe on poly. Danish oil is durable but it will wear and not super waterproof. But the nice thing is that it is easy to touch up and make new again anytime with little prep work.
Is it possble to use Danish oil with a stain OVER an already coated natural oil finish? I did the leaves for a table in natural, and wish it had a bit more cherry color? The table (and chairs) are solid cherry and I want them to "look" like cherry...
You could but it won't penetrated that wood as much and you won't have a lot less protection from the Danish oil. You can get the Danish oil with stain already in it, if that helps.
Is there any special considerations for applying to a vertical surface? I had an bay window installed (vinyl clad outside unfinished wood inside)and after watching several videos am concerned Danish oil may not have been my best pick for finishing the inside.TIA!
Thanks for the video. I've been using the same Watco brand Danish Oil for years, but I'm planning to buy the Tried and True Danish Oil for two reasons: It's polymerized (which is supposed to be better but don't ask me to explain how), and it's food safe. I only plan to put it on furniture (and not around children/food), but the main benefit is that it won't stink up my house with who knows what kind of toxins. I'd love to see you give the T&T a try and make a video. Based on one video I saw, I think I'll probably do two coats of T&T Danish, then 2 coats of T&T Original (which includes beeswax). This will be for a solid cherry desk.
I love Tried and True products, but want to say that I find Watco danish oil and Tried an True danish oil to be just different products. TnT is basically pure heat polymerized linseed oil, it works just like regular linseed oil and dries just a touch slower. Great for food turnings I do, you can eat off it next day no problem. They also have a variation with beeswax in it, which one can cook up themselves by mixing oil to wax in 10-20:1 proportions give or take. Watco stuff has linseed oil, but it also has varnish of sorts, I'm not sure if it's just alkyd resin or has polyurethane in it. But between home brew danish oil of polyurethane, linseed oil, and thinners, and watco, the end finish is remarkably similar. Just wanted to give you this info. TnT also has a varnish oil which I think is a mixture or linseed oil and pine rosin(?) varnish, although I haven't tried it.
I would think so, but I have never tried it that way. I don't work with pine that much. Try it on a sample piece first to see how it works. Good luck on your project.
Mainly it soaks into the wood and not build up like regular varnish does. It does give a somewhat durable finish, but not like a varnish would. The nice thing is it is easy to refinish later on.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Take a screwdriver and pop the white plastic part off of the cap. There is always a regular metal cap hidden underneath.
That is exactly what I do too.
bruuuhhhhhhhhh why do they make it hard to open when it says twist to open
@@thepotatoofheaven
Kiddy proof.
@@markdennison8326 true
Thanks for showing us your struggles removing the cap. Yesterday, after much fiddling I gave up & just used a can opener. 😂
Channel locks are my friend with these caps :). Thanks for Watching.
I realized I could just press my palm down onto the top of the cap, like really putting my weight on it, and then use the friction between my palm and the cap to twist it off. Took a few good turns, but I got it! 😀
I agree with you regarding danish oil on furniture it can be infinitely refinished!
That is the beauty of it. Thanks for watching.
Great couple of videos on applying danish oil, thank you! All I've done with the stuff so far is test it on some scrap pieces of my project, but I can tell that it's what I want to use. I have a question though.
Any advice on the ideal grit to sand down to before applying it? I'm making a semi-ornamental box out of brazillian cherry to store my sharpening stones. Since I'm going for a bit of a fancy look, I want it to be fairly smooth, like 400-600 grit, but I'm concerned that the smoother surface will inhibit the oil soaking in. Also curious if it would work if I decided to go nuts and give it a hand plane finish.
Thanks 🙂
I would think 400 would be just fine for what you want to do.
I had a project made out of walnut that I tried finishing with watco danish oil and it ended up being sticky could not figure out why? I followed the cans directions, I ended up wiping the " uncured danish oil" off with mineral spirits after like a week of of drying time. I thought it was expired or no good for whatever reason. so after watching you video I did no realize you had to continually wipe the wood that many and length of times to get a proper finish. Your the first person to explain the proper way to apply this stuff. Great job
Thanks, this is the way I have always done it. It has alway worked well for me. Thanks for watching.
Hi Josh, can I ask what sand paper grit you used before applying the Danish Oil? Thanks.
@@marcfoss7687 320
Great video, loved your tips to do it in the morning and check on it throughout the day for seepage at night. ASMR voice too!
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video, I like your demeanor. I'll probably pick up some natural Danish oil and then try mixing in my own stains/dyes if I feel like it. It's annoying wiping any solvent based finish over a stain since the solvents pull up the stain. Having it mixed into the finish will lock it in as each coat cures.
It does make it a liltle easier for sure.
Thank you for a great video. Question: Can you apply a paste wax over Watco once it has cured? Appreciate your opinion.
Thank you. Yes you can, just give it at least 72 hours ( I like to give it a week). Thanks for watching.
Using this oil on a Grandfather clock I have built. Red Oak…..I can’t believe how much seepage there is. It madding, ever two to three hours wiping it down, two days into it….WILL IT EVER STOP! I may start drilling and sell oil stock. 😜
Oak is the worst one for seepage, usually about a week to a week and a half. But the look of the finish will make it worth it, as least for me it did.
Thanks for your video! You taught me a lot ! And I am half Danish !😊
That's great Mary Ann Brown. Thank you for watching.
🤣
What kind of rag do you use to wipe after applying the finish? Ps. Thanks for making this video. Very helpful.
A lot of times I just use old socks. But any lint free rag will work. Old tee-shirts also work well.
I just spent a week designing and building a couple of unique calendar frames out of big box select pine wood. They came out great. However finishing them, can be nerve-wracking. From what I've seen on TH-cam, Danish Oil, seemed like a great idea. Looked very easy to apply! However I used a dark walnut danish Oil. After applying in the manner suggested, the finish looks horrible. It is very blotchy. Before applying, I started by sanding with 80, 120,180, and 220. i wiped it down with a tack cloth. The wood was ready, however and It came out looking very Blotchy!!! It looks like a leopard print. From what you said, I can sand it with 500 grit paper then reapply?!?
If you have any other suggests, please let me know!!! The one thing you didn't mention was how the ends of the board suck up the oil and are considerably darker than the rest of the wood!!! Look forward to hearing from you.
Sorry to hear that Danasaunders. Pine is a tough wood to stain. One of the reasons I only use the natural Danish Oil. anytime you use stain on soft wood you run the chance of have some blotchy (actually most likely). You will have to sand it down and there are some product out there to apply first before adding any stain, such as this: amzn.to/3uCbrpA. There are many pre-stains that will help to prevent the blotchy stuff. Just make sure it will work with the danish oil. All stains will go darker on the end grain. One thing that can help a little is sand the ends with a finer girt sandpaper so that it won't suck in so much stain. Good luck with it.
We used Danish oil on an old hardwood floor in our living room (after sanding well), and it turned out beautifully. In the bedroom, my husband sanded the floor until it was free of the old finish (and any color), so he insisted on staining the floor first. We used water-based stain. Can we still finish the floor with Danish oil after staining?
I never tried it on a floor, but as lone as the stain didn't seal the wood, it should work. But I would try it on a scrap piece of wood first and see how it works. Good luck with it.
@@MadNerdWorkshop We did stain (water-based) and then finished it with Danish oil. Turned out beautifully. Thanks.
Hello sir,
Great info. I am wondering what your thoughts are on applying lacquer on top of danish oil. It is for a pies which will be living outside. Can it be done without ruining the danish oil, and make it more durable against the weather. Thanks for your videos.
Not so sure about Lacquer, but you can apply Varnish after a 72 hour drying time.
Thanks for making this video. Helpful.
Thank you for watching.
You can also take the metal cap out of the plastic safety cap (if you don't have anyone in your house this could be a hazard to). This leaves the old fashion metal looking cap that screws & unscrews regularly w/o the safety feature.
It almost always works out that way for me. Thanks for watching Squigglyline.
if im using this on a butcher block for a desk top should I fully finish coating one side and then work on the other rather continually flipping as you are
I would flip it. There is really no reason not to because you end up wiping it off as the last step. Just make sure it is sitting on something like pint pyramids so it won't stick.
I’m about to do this with a butcher block, did you end up doing both sides? I only have a pint of watco and I really don’t want to be flipping it constantly, as my 5ft block weighs nearly 100 pounds
What kind of texture does it leave? And have you ever tried it on mahogany?
It will soak in and leave very little texture, with he way I use it. It comes out smooth. But I am sure that can change with a different way of application, but I know how to do them.
Thanks for the video! I have some reclaimed line that I made a picture frame out of. I’d like to keep the wood tone very close to the natural color. Would you recommend the danish oil for that or something different?
The danish oil Natural will give is a golden color. If you are looking to keep it the same color with some protection try water based poly.
For me Danish oil is on of the best finishing products and I use it very often.
I agree Mindspectrum, I apply it all the time to many of my pieces.
Thank you very much for the helpful video. May I ask how you would advise to clean the furniture/cabinets once the Watco Oil has been applied? Would wiping down with a damp (with water) cloth from time to time be the best solution? Thank you.
Yes that will work. I also use furniture polish too.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you.
Would the oil work well on a golden oak table top that isn't fully sanded. Some of the old finish is still on and it isn't uniform. Will a coat or two of the oil make it all look uniform???
only if the finish is also oil. Otherwise you would be better off sanding it all the way down.
Thank you, sir. Very clear instructions
You're welcome and Thanks for Watching.
Very informative. Thanks for posting this. I’m a novice wannabe. I love the look of unfinished poplar from my local big box stores. I’ve made a couple pf table tops that I need to finish and was thinking either danish oil or toug oil. Can you share some thoughts please?
I only used toug oil twice a long time ago. From what I remember I liked the Danish Oil better, I felt that it gave me a nicer look and seems easier to apply. But I am not sure if one is really better than the other.
I have a sideboard that was refinished using WATCO Danish Oil. I would like to paint the base of the sideboard with chalk paint and leave the cabinets and drawers fronts natural walnut. How do I prepare the sideboard before using the chalk paint?
I have never done that, but I would think all you need to do is sand it and paint with the chalk paint. like you would anything else.
I just used danish oil to finish a kitchen countertop. Now I’m worried I should have gone with a food safe sealer. Any thoughts on danish oil on kitchen counters with a sink?
The nice thing is you can use just about any countertop sealer over the danish oil. I would try to put some type of food safe finish on top of it and it will also make it much durable.
One approach for the cap is to wipe clean the threaded neck of the container and the inside of the cap so that no Watco will dry at these points of contact. Question: Have you ever laid down a coating or two of shellac over Watco.
I have not, but I don't see why that would not work. Test first on a scrape piece of wood, that is what I always do when I try something new in finishing.
This a great video! Thank you! I will be using fruitwood Watco Danish oil on purchased unfinished maple cabinets. I have read to lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper prior to applying the finish as it has already been sanded by the manufacturer. Do you agree with that? Is hand sanding fine to do. I have read an orbital sander may leave scratches. Also, I may want to do more than one coat to deepen the color. (I know you only use the natural Danish oil.) Do I need to sand between coats? Any other suggestions for me. I am new at this. I appreciate any suggestions you can give me. Thank you!
Good question, I only sand to 220 when you go finer, depending on the wood, the oil does not penetrated as deep. Danish oil's finish is by penetrating into the wood, it doesn't sit on top like other finishes. It does offer some protection but not as much as say poly. Hand sanding is fine and going to 400 will be ok to do. I use an orbital sander only on the cabinets and with my last pass, the only pressure on the sanding pad is from the weigh of the sander, I don't push down on the orbital sander. You can do more than one coat but after about two it will not soak in anymore so I don't think you will get any deeper color. But I am not sure on that one. I would try a number of coats on a scrape piece and see how it does each time. Good luck with your project and thank for watching.
Thank you for your help!
😂Exactly how I opened the can last night . . . .🙄 Thanks for your very informative videos!
Thanks for watching Mary Miedema.
Help me! I stained my butcher block and then went to use my danish oil but accidentally used butcher block oil for the first coat, can I use danish oil after?
as long as you are not using a colored danish oil, you can apply it over the top of that. But you will need to let is dry completely (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Then I would give it a good sanding before applying the Danish Oil Just to make sure.
Can Danish oil be thined? I have a part I make it'd like to dip in the oil to help it resist water.
Yes it can, and it will make it easier to apply. This works really well with older danish oil that thickens up over time. But don't thin it too much.
Hey, thanks for the tutorials, but is there anything wrong with using the Danish oil, that's colored and then use teak oil on top of that?
Not really, the only thing that I can think of is that both are a type of penetrating oil and if you use Danish oil, that has penetrated the wood. There may not be much ability for the Teak oil to soak into the wood. But I have never tried that so I am not sure about the results. Try it on some scraps of the same type of wood first and see what it does.
OK thanks, I just have been using urethanes for over 30 years and penetrating oils are new to me.
Is danish oil durable enough for something like cabinets?
I used it on mine, and then covered it with wipe on poly. Danish oil is durable but it will wear and not super waterproof. But the nice thing is that it is easy to touch up and make new again anytime with little prep work.
How many Danes must be pressed to get a bottle of Danish oil?
That is a question I have no answer for :), but thanks for watching.
Is it possble to use Danish oil with a stain OVER an already coated natural oil finish? I did the leaves for a table in natural, and wish it had a bit more cherry color? The table (and chairs) are solid cherry and I want them to "look" like cherry...
The Danish oil needs to soak in so I am not sure how well that will work. Try it on a small section that won't show and see if it is what you want.
I put two coats of Danish oil to a serving tray. Do I need to add a polyurethane over the Danish oil?
You do not. All the poly will do is make it a little more durable.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thank you.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Can you use this over another oil based stain
You could but it won't penetrated that wood as much and you won't have a lot less protection from the Danish oil. You can get the Danish oil with stain already in it, if that helps.
Do you have issues with blotches on maple?
Not with the natural.
I opened the cap with the exact same channelocks!
Or as we call them, the Danish Oil can openers. :)
thank you
Thank you for watching.
Great product, have used it on my furniture for 50+ years. The cap should be re-engineered.
I agree with you on that reduggan.
Is there any special considerations for applying to a vertical surface? I had an bay window installed (vinyl clad outside unfinished wood inside)and after watching several videos am concerned Danish oil may not have been my best pick for finishing the inside.TIA!
no special consideration for vertical, if you are using a rag to apply it. What would be your concerns for it being applied on the inside?
😂 the cap!! It's so true
Right! Hate that cap. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video.
I've been using the same Watco brand Danish Oil for years, but I'm planning to buy the Tried and True Danish Oil for two reasons: It's polymerized (which is supposed to be better but don't ask me to explain how), and it's food safe. I only plan to put it on furniture (and not around children/food), but the main benefit is that it won't stink up my house with who knows what kind of toxins. I'd love to see you give the T&T a try and make a video.
Based on one video I saw, I think I'll probably do two coats of T&T Danish, then 2 coats of T&T Original (which includes beeswax). This will be for a solid cherry desk.
I was looking at it and I may have to try it. Thanks Merchantbankers.
I love Tried and True products, but want to say that I find Watco danish oil and Tried an True danish oil to be just different products. TnT is basically pure heat polymerized linseed oil, it works just like regular linseed oil and dries just a touch slower. Great for food turnings I do, you can eat off it next day no problem. They also have a variation with beeswax in it, which one can cook up themselves by mixing oil to wax in 10-20:1 proportions give or take. Watco stuff has linseed oil, but it also has varnish of sorts, I'm not sure if it's just alkyd resin or has polyurethane in it. But between home brew danish oil of polyurethane, linseed oil, and thinners, and watco, the end finish is remarkably similar. Just wanted to give you this info. TnT also has a varnish oil which I think is a mixture or linseed oil and pine rosin(?) varnish, although I haven't tried it.
Problem with Watco Danish Oil is that it is 80% thinner, better to make your own.
To use lacquer over Danish Oil, spray a coat of shellac.
I agree you absolutely can do that. Thanks for watching.
I like to work with pine and regular oil-based stains (Minwax). Can I use Danish oil to finish stained pine?
Thanks
I would think so, but I have never tried it that way. I don't work with pine that much. Try it on a sample piece first to see how it works. Good luck on your project.
🙏
Thanks for watching.
I always remove the plastic cap and just leave the metal one. Which can still be a pain but at least removable by hand.
That is exactly what I do Wreckoningday.
If Danish oil is basically oil+varnish why not durable? I heard that it’s not so durable but why?
Mainly it soaks into the wood and not build up like regular varnish does. It does give a somewhat durable finish, but not like a varnish would. The nice thing is it is easy to refinish later on.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you! So it’s more durable than oil and less durable then varnish? So this is a “between” kind of stuff?
I gave up on the cap and punctures the top of the can.
I can easily understand that.
Those Watco caps are of the devil! They really need to use something better.
hopefully some day they will. Thanks for Watching.
Worst cap design known to man. Someone should be fired. I curse these cans every time I have to open one
I am 100% with you Bryan.
It’s to prevent children from getting in to it.
But the reality is, it’s silly.
Seriously never goin to buy this shit again just becau of this
Sorry I made it look that bad.