When I first started as a ford technician in the late 70’s you could get either a new part or rebuilt of course the new one was more expensive, then years later a lot of the parts were only rebuilt and it was horrible to fix a car, because sometimes you would need 2 or more replacement parts just to get a good one, and of course many times it would fail in a couple of months, and get paid warranty time and the customer would look at you like maybe you don’t know what your doing was not fun. Ivan you’re a great tech and offering a one year on the cluster was honorable, keep up the great work.
My 1993 C1500 was acquired used on-the-cheap. It's a solid truck but the little things where getting to the previous owner. No worries, I love loads of little things getting to owners. It means I get a good deal! Anywho, the wiper was an issue. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. The PO (previous owner) had rigged up a length of household electrical wire to put tension on the motor housing. That's a sign! One afternoon I dived into the component removing the cover to expose the circuit board. Sure enough, the solder paths right at the connector were cracked. Easy fix with a soldering iron and an additional dab or two of quality leaded solder. Stay away from the lead-free stuff for electronics repair, kids. It's crap! Come to find out from a repair industry service writer, the issue for that model run is a known problem. There's so much stuff that can be fixed with a little investigation, poking, and prodding rather than throwing money at new parts.
Another great video Ivan. I'll have to say to the commenter that said, you like to Toot your own Horn, is that at least you have a Horn to Toot. For so my others that claim they are mechanics don't have a leg to stand on, much less than a Horn to Toot. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with all that want to learn something new.
I wonder if the owner replaced wiper motor 3 x with JUNKYARD PARTS or ? If I were you I would have put RTV or at least grease on the seal for the new wiper motor. GREAT JOB ON RE SOLDERING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. YES, AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHTS FOR THE MOST PART ARE PROBLEMS, I did mine over by adding separate relays, heavier wire all the way from the new relays too the new headlight connectors. Plus I did the BIG UPGRADE ON ALL MY BATTERY CABLES, ALT. STARTER & GROUNDS. I USED WELDING WIRE & MADE MY OWN BY CRIMPING NOT SOLDERING ENDS ON & ADDING ADHESIVE SHRINK TUBING. NEVER CHANGED THE BULBS & HEADLIGHTS ARE UNREAL NOW. Also bought new headlights because their made of PLASTIC JUNK & YELLOWED INSIDE.
Brings to mind a little ''glitch" on that "Ram drains batt" case You took care of for me a while back. (100% on the fix) I went to get into it a while back to get a load of anthracite, and when I opened the door, the wipers cycled one time and parked! I just used the VGG theory of "I'll pretend I did'nt see that!'' Anyway, nice work as always Ivan!
As for the cluster my guess is the big white resistor at the bottom of the screen at 14:48. Vibrations will affect big/heavy components due to them having more inertia. I would have put a blob of hot glue either side of the resistor to give it some support.
Nice fix. Aftermarket parts are a crap shoot with reliablity. I had to do a similar instrument cluster reflow for my 2000 F150. It had bad solder joints on the display. It is a surprise to see how mass produced items like that fail from bad solder joints. I guess the manufacturing process did not have a consistent heat or had containments in the solder.
The primary issue with all of the failing solder joints is due to the elimination of lead in the solder they have to use in production. That is why the reflowed parts that have good solder last longer.
Nice job as always I have had issues with Mercedes and other vehicles with the bulb out lamp only to find the bulbs had been replaced with the wrong wattage bulbs. Put the right ones in light goes away.....
Correction, cold ass bench test... test drive that tank to Vegas next week going to be in the 70's and work on my 49 Cadillac ignition/starter, should only cost you about 500 in diesel lol, love the work and the vids, thanks.
Those resistor through-holes on the PCB are huge, no wonder the solder joint is not strong, did you also solder from the resistor side of the board. Typically the wire connectors vibrate and cause a loose joint so great find and thanks for the tip, an awesome video as usual. I figured the wrong bulbs were installed with the wrong resistance. I will study the wiring diagram to see a way to diagnose poor brush contact in the motor although an amp clamp on the HI side may show nasty commutator bars anyway. I will guess that if you do an ohm test from the LO side terminal input and output to the ground wire terminal there would be an open circuit with no brush contact OR hot wire the circuit with no motor operation with a bench test will prove this out also.
Wow my daughter-in-law's truck looks exactly the same. Not only that she had the same troubles with hers last summer. Right down to the hood that would not stay open. I looked over the cluster with my 10x glass found the bad solder joint and boom good. I should have done em all like you did. I probably be pulling it again for something.. her wipers were gearbox problems so not much TS to do there. As always, Great video, I'm kinda glad i live so far from you. If you were now the street I'd hang up my DIY hat and call 1800iven.
My wife's coffee maker quit a while back. Started checking voltages on the circuit board to find where power was being lost. Suddenly sparks flew. After that it worked fine. Figure there was a bad solder joint that when I pushed on it welded itself back together. Worked great with 120v. Not sure 12v would do it.
Great start to the new year on a mechanical monster. Redesigning headlights never works as the computer modules are getting smarter by the minute. The background looks akin to Alaska covered in white or maybe St Petersburg.
Ivan, FYI the Dodge RAM (and some other vehicles too) monitor bulbs using CANBUS. Eric O's nemesis (the TIPM) does the monitoring. Since that era of RAMs used incandescent headlights and taillights, the bulb driver assumes that each bulb will draw a certain amount of current (for headlights approx. 50w). LEDs are so efficient they draw far less current, so the computer falsely assumes the bulb is "out". The "fix" is to install a resistor at each bulb location. The resistor draws enough current to "fake" out the computer and turn off the annoying "LAMP OUT" warning. There is a ton of information on the Internet about this; and the resistors are readily available from Amazon and other vendors. This URL is not an endorsement, just an example of a source with good information: www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/ Incidentally I converted all the incandescent bulbs in my 2004 Dodge RAM INSTRUMENT CLUSTER with replacement LEDs from superbrightleds. It really modernized the look of the cluster! The cluster bulbs are not monitored by CANBUS.
BEAUTIFUL WORK, AS USUAL. IN FUTURE- KEEP FINGERS AWAY FROM WIPER TRANSMISSION WHEN IT'S PARKING! THAT WILL SCISSOR YOUR FINGERTIP OFF. DAMN COLD SOLDER JOINTS.
Have the same issue with the odometer on my 02 expidition. Had it out and resolder some joints it worked for a couple years. Now its back to workin not workin.
I have the same wiper issues I just deal with. I changed the motor before and it made it worse. The replacements I got were worse than the one I had. So I put my original back in. My worked on low and high but intermittent was well intermittent.
The LED lights are nice but they draw a lot less current. The current sensor (and accompanying software) are not designed/set to look for the lower current draw. The computer thinks there is a problem and voom ... no worky high beams.
Another potential problem with LEDs is that they are in fact diodes that only allow current to flow in one direction. The incandescent bulbs of course allow current to flow in both directions. It's possible that the bulb monitoring circuit has a polarity that the diode (LED) blocks which would appear to the computer as an open circuit (burned out bulb).
I literally just swapped out the wiper motor on my 2005 today, and it looked just like that. Interestingly, the "new" one I bought has a flat paper gasket for the motor housing, instead of the o-ring. Although I think more likely the moisture comes from the plastic cap that is upside down when installed. bad design
Good repair. That old wiper motor looked like it sat in water for a LONG time! How well was the rain water being deflected away from that area where the motor sat?
Yea I agree that the seal is probably trash or it was a used part also makes me Wonder if there is water getting into to cowl panel or not draining properly, what do you all think?
@@marcinmorris Unless they are used as a replacement for the knob on a water valve at a sink. Most bathrooms at garages & autoparts stores in NYC employ that "repair."
Good job Ivan...So many people modify their vehicles to cause havoc with the Automatic trouble alert systems... Was the plastic apron keeping the water out of the wiper motor area as designed?
Ok I looked the board over I didnt see any floated resistors and you didnt show us which! LOL. im going with you changed the blinker fluid! gotta love water damaged motors lol. thanks for video
Well I was but I wasn’t. I was thinking that there was a ground issue behind the instrument cluster that would have been causing the “light out” light to come on. Which may have been somehow shorting the wipers so they wouldn’t turn off at intermittent settings.
@14:49 there are a bunch for chip resistors that are about 3mm wide....Those are consistent with the type that heat up and lift off the board. I repair those by exposing additional copper on the trace, and re-soldering. I ADD just a bit extra onto the newly exposed copper, to add additional heat sink ability. NEVER had a comeback!!! VERY COMMON on MANY florescent and LED displays.
Why guarantee a repair to a PCB? You didn't replace anything. I thought you said he replaced the wiper motor twice and no change? If so why did it work when you replaced it, or am I not paying attention?
@@thebigmacd 3 times replaced . You would need to be really unlucky to fit 2nd hand motor 3 times to ha e same problem. My moneys on water ingress problem on the truck he is fixing. I was allways taught to find the cause (water ingress) not just to remedy !
Hey Ivan, was wondering if you need owners permission to post your videos? That truck could possibly be recognizable to the locals. You know, in case of something personal is accidentally shown that might raise an eyebrow. Hehe. Nice vid
ck past TSB's . reposition G-104 ground so no water intrusion to the wiper motor and inst cluster has TSB for weak solder joints , just saying = past TSB's can help you
If he really likes those led bulbs you can just put load resisters on the light circuit to trick the bcm and the lamp out will not be an issue any more . I have to do this with a lot of my led loving customer's . No big deal really less are 💯% way better anyways
When I first started as a ford technician in the late 70’s you could get either a new part or rebuilt of course the new one was more expensive, then years later a lot of the parts were only rebuilt and it was horrible to fix a car, because sometimes you would need 2 or more replacement parts just to get a good one, and of course many times it would fail in a couple of months, and get paid warranty time and the customer would look at you like maybe you don’t know what your doing was not fun.
Ivan you’re a great tech and offering a one year on the cluster was honorable, keep up the great work.
My problem when in dealership was convincing the parts guy the new part was bad. Cause they always know more than the tech.
Amen, dont get me started on reman aircraft parts...
That old wiper motor looks like it was found on the bottom of a lake.
From a junkyard flood truck no doubt.
Just typical salt belt stuff :p
Yay...more PHAD! What a Beast! That wiper motor is rust infested! This channel has been a great troubleshooting education for me. Thanks Ivan.
Ya same for me
My 1993 C1500 was acquired used on-the-cheap. It's a solid truck but the little things where getting to the previous owner. No worries, I love loads of little things getting to owners. It means I get a good deal!
Anywho, the wiper was an issue. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. The PO (previous owner) had rigged up a length of household electrical wire to put tension on the motor housing. That's a sign! One afternoon I dived into the component removing the cover to expose the circuit board. Sure enough, the solder paths right at the connector were cracked. Easy fix with a soldering iron and an additional dab or two of quality leaded solder. Stay away from the lead-free stuff for electronics repair, kids. It's crap!
Come to find out from a repair industry service writer, the issue for that model run is a known problem.
There's so much stuff that can be fixed with a little investigation, poking, and prodding rather than throwing money at new parts.
Logically and systematically resolved as always, Ivan! Always good to see another video from you!
Ya I always look forward to seeing another video from him and Eric
Thanks Dave!
A bit generous with the warranty- 12 months or 12 miles, whichever comes first would have been safer.
I always gave a line lot warranty, once you cross the line at the end of the lot, it's expired... LOL
30 SECONDS OR 30 FEET.
no warranty would have been best as he'll probably over-ride the odometer when he messes around next.
@@xephael3485 What customer would ever do that ???? !!!
@@davidworsley7969 the one who wants to say he has low miles on the truck he beats the hell out of🤣
Mate,, watching your fingers nearly being removed by that wiper trans was anxiety inducing lol
Nice work Ivan. I hope you and Amanda have a great year.
Thanks Wyatt! You too!!
Very impressive how you work through the problems!! Great video
Another great video Ivan. I'll have to say to the commenter that said, you like to Toot your own Horn, is that at least you have a Horn to Toot. For so my others that claim they are mechanics don't have a leg to stand on, much less than a Horn to Toot. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with all that want to learn something new.
Knowledge is power!
I wonder if the owner replaced wiper motor 3 x with JUNKYARD PARTS or ? If I were you I would have put RTV or at least grease on the seal for the new wiper motor. GREAT JOB ON RE SOLDERING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. YES, AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHTS FOR THE MOST PART ARE PROBLEMS, I did mine over by adding separate relays, heavier wire all the way from the new relays too the new headlight connectors. Plus I did the BIG UPGRADE ON ALL MY BATTERY CABLES, ALT. STARTER & GROUNDS. I USED WELDING WIRE & MADE MY OWN BY CRIMPING NOT SOLDERING ENDS ON & ADDING ADHESIVE SHRINK TUBING. NEVER CHANGED THE BULBS & HEADLIGHTS ARE UNREAL NOW. Also bought new headlights because their made of PLASTIC JUNK & YELLOWED INSIDE.
It's a lot better than "THE TWELVE DAYS OF AURA"!!!
Thnx for the training lesson.
Our training wheels should be coming off soon.
Brings to mind a little ''glitch" on that "Ram drains batt" case You took care of for me a while back. (100% on the fix) I went to get into it a while back to get a load of anthracite, and when I opened the door, the wipers cycled one time and parked! I just used the VGG theory of "I'll pretend I did'nt see that!'' Anyway, nice work as always Ivan!
"thinkin some pixies lost their way along the int. light door switch"
As for the cluster my guess is the big white resistor at the bottom of the screen at 14:48. Vibrations will affect big/heavy components due to them having more inertia. I would have put a blob of hot glue either side of the resistor to give it some support.
Could be. I resoldered that one, along with a couple small board mounted ones :)
Being a Chrysler when it comes to electrical and electronics be happy the vehicle starts and moves.
Same with GM
Had the same problem with the odometer and compass in my 04 F150 ....broken solder joints ...re-soldered and no more problems
Nice fix. Aftermarket parts are a crap shoot with reliablity. I had to do a similar instrument cluster reflow for my 2000 F150. It had bad solder joints on the display. It is a surprise to see how mass produced items like that fail from bad solder joints. I guess the manufacturing process did not have a consistent heat or had containments in the solder.
Read somewhere that it's from manufacturer using no lead solder.Has a tendency to crack.
The primary issue with all of the failing solder joints is due to the elimination of lead in the solder they have to use in production. That is why the reflowed parts that have good solder last longer.
I like the Vice Grips clamped on the strut to keep the hood open...an understated example of Chrysler quality...
At least they throw in the Vice Grips with the truck for future need.
Show me a 15 yr old vehicle with that type of hood struts that do work
I don't know of a reliable strut on anything...
Thanks for sharing Ivan. Great break down as always along with the repair.
Nice job as always I have had issues with Mercedes and other vehicles with the bulb out lamp only to find the bulbs had been replaced with the wrong wattage bulbs. Put the right ones in light goes away.....
Correction, cold ass bench test... test drive that tank to Vegas next week going to be in the 70's and work on my 49 Cadillac ignition/starter, should only cost you about 500 in diesel lol, love the work and the vids, thanks.
love these big trucks you have over the pond.
Great diagnosis and detective work Ivan.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
John.
Looked like the original wiper motor or maybe a dorman product. Really generous with 1 yr. warranty. I would have given 90 days at most.
Thats why he is Ivan.😎
Those resistor through-holes on the PCB are huge, no wonder the solder joint is not strong, did you also solder from the resistor side of the board. Typically the wire connectors vibrate and cause a loose joint so great find and thanks for the tip, an awesome video as usual. I figured the wrong bulbs were installed with the wrong resistance. I will study the wiring diagram to see a way to diagnose poor brush contact in the motor although an amp clamp on the HI side may show nasty commutator bars anyway. I will guess that if you do an ohm test from the LO side terminal input and output to the ground wire terminal there would be an open circuit with no brush contact OR hot wire the circuit with no motor operation with a bench test will prove this out also.
Often, the cold joints are on the wiring harness receiver connection on the board. Good job!
Wow my daughter-in-law's truck looks exactly the same. Not only that she had the same troubles with hers last summer. Right down to the hood that would not stay open. I looked over the cluster with my 10x glass found the bad solder joint and boom good. I should have done em all like you did. I probably be pulling it again for something.. her wipers were gearbox problems so not much TS to do there. As always, Great video, I'm kinda glad i live so far from you. If you were now the street I'd hang up my DIY hat and call 1800iven.
After a full day of Deboss garage, a PHAD video... :)
Great job Ivan
I’m hooked with this guy🙅🏿♂️🙅🏿♂️
My wife's coffee maker quit a while back. Started checking voltages on the circuit board to find where power was being lost. Suddenly sparks flew. After that it worked fine. Figure there was a bad solder joint that when I pushed on it welded itself back together. Worked great with 120v. Not sure 12v would do it.
Great start to the new year on a mechanical monster. Redesigning headlights never works as the computer modules are getting smarter by the minute. The background looks akin to Alaska covered in white or maybe St Petersburg.
Congratulations on passing 90,000+ subs!
Thanks to amazing subscribers such as yourself :)
Ivan, FYI the Dodge RAM (and some other vehicles too) monitor bulbs using CANBUS. Eric O's nemesis (the TIPM) does the monitoring. Since that era of RAMs used incandescent headlights and taillights, the bulb driver assumes that each bulb will draw a certain amount of current (for headlights approx. 50w). LEDs are so efficient they draw far less current, so the computer falsely assumes the bulb is "out". The "fix" is to install a resistor at each bulb location. The resistor draws enough current to "fake" out the computer and turn off the annoying "LAMP OUT" warning. There is a ton of information on the Internet about this; and the resistors are readily available from Amazon and other vendors.
This URL is not an endorsement, just an example of a source with good information: www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/
Incidentally I converted all the incandescent bulbs in my 2004 Dodge RAM INSTRUMENT CLUSTER with replacement LEDs from superbrightleds. It really modernized the look of the cluster! The cluster bulbs are not monitored by CANBUS.
BEAUTIFUL WORK, AS USUAL.
IN FUTURE-
KEEP FINGERS AWAY FROM WIPER TRANSMISSION WHEN IT'S PARKING!
THAT WILL SCISSOR YOUR FINGERTIP OFF.
DAMN COLD SOLDER JOINTS.
Have the same issue with the odometer on my 02 expidition. Had it out and resolder some joints it worked for a couple years. Now its back to workin not workin.
I would of liked to see your technique on fixing cracked solder joints. Otherwise excellent case study as usual.
Awesome diagnostic and video Ivan, great job buddy
I have the same wiper issues I just deal with. I changed the motor before and it made it worse. The replacements I got were worse than the one I had. So I put my original back in. My worked on low and high but intermittent was well intermittent.
Worn out by age and maintenance, but $$$ for exhaust.
Yeah, douchebag it out...but cut corners on everything else... what a waste of a truck.
@@xephael3485 yeah LED lights need a adapter so the pcm reads correct bulb voltage.
Did you see how badly yellowed the headlight lenses were? OMG, but slap the fancy LED bulbs in.
@@Dirtyharry70585 and it doesn't burn the pcm out I would like to know what colour the oil is in that truck I'd say it's sludge
A special small di.k exhaust lol
Job well done Ivan. Best regards.
Meanwhile Scotty; that's not a big problem we can live with that
The LED lights are nice but they draw a lot less current. The current sensor (and accompanying software) are not designed/set to look for the lower current draw. The computer thinks there is a problem and voom ... no worky high beams.
Another potential problem with LEDs is that they are in fact diodes that only allow current to flow in one direction. The incandescent bulbs of course allow current to flow in both directions. It's possible that the bulb monitoring circuit has a polarity that the diode (LED) blocks which would appear to the computer as an open circuit (burned out bulb).
Nice Job! Happy 2021!
Looks like the seal on the motor failed, Dorman part? lol
Likely a Dorman or Cardone.
One year warranty on an already flaky instrument cluster is very generous.
I literally just swapped out the wiper motor on my 2005 today, and it looked just like that. Interestingly, the "new" one I bought has a flat paper gasket for the motor housing, instead of the o-ring. Although I think more likely the moisture comes from the plastic cap that is upside down when installed. bad design
Good repair. That old wiper motor looked like it sat in water for a LONG time! How well was the rain water being deflected away from that area where the motor sat?
Yea I agree that the seal is probably trash or it was a used part also makes me Wonder if there is water getting into to cowl panel or not draining properly, what do you all think?
Awesome fix!!!
hood support less than 7 bucks at RockAuto. Just sayin'.
I never understood why people wouldn't buy new supports. Crazy!
@@mariosaccoccio1688 because vise-grip pliers would then lost their sense of existence.... ;)
@@marcinmorris Unless they are used as a replacement for the knob on a water valve at a sink. Most bathrooms at garages & autoparts stores in NYC employ that "repair."
He spent all his $$ on the exhaust xD
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I got similar effect when i poked a hole in mine xD
Good job Ivan...So many people modify their vehicles to cause havoc with the Automatic trouble alert systems... Was the plastic apron keeping the water out of the wiper motor area as designed?
Great video, what is that scanner and is that is a electrical bus system I have 99 Caravan, non can
Ok I looked the board over I didnt see any floated resistors and you didnt show us which! LOL. im going with you changed the blinker fluid! gotta love water damaged motors lol. thanks for video
Seems to me it’s definitely going to be a ground issue. I will continue to watch to find out if I’m right or wrong.
I'm at 5.27 were you right 😉
Well I was but I wasn’t. I was thinking that there was a ground issue behind the instrument cluster that would have been causing the “light out” light to come on. Which may have been somehow shorting the wipers so they wouldn’t turn off at intermittent settings.
@14:49 there are a bunch for chip resistors that are about 3mm wide....Those are consistent with the type that heat up and lift off the board.
I repair those by exposing additional copper on the trace, and re-soldering. I ADD just a bit extra onto the newly exposed copper, to add additional heat sink ability. NEVER had a comeback!!! VERY COMMON on MANY florescent and LED displays.
All Dodges should come with Vice Grips. There are so many things that can be helped with Vice Grips when they fail and they do.
when all else fails you can use them on your nuts and sing like the bee gees
I like the Eric I hood strutt
Why guarantee a repair to a PCB? You didn't replace anything. I thought you said he replaced the wiper motor twice and no change? If so why did it work when you replaced it, or am I not paying attention?
Great video
Great video. But did you discover the cause of how the water is getting into all the wiper motors ? Scuttle panel problem etc .
I imagine they bought a junkyard part that happened to be from a flooded truck. He said it never worked right with each "new" motor they put in.
@@thebigmacd 3 times replaced . You would need to be really unlucky to fit 2nd hand motor 3 times to ha e same problem. My moneys on water ingress problem on the truck he is fixing. I was allways taught to find the cause (water ingress) not just to remedy !
not sure...we'll see how long this one lasts haha
I though you were gonna put new brushes in that motor and hit it with deox, LOL
i would have tried it if it was mine
lol reman motor was pretty affordable ;)
excellent many thanks
What brand and model of scan tool did you use?
Theres a bulb out behind the oil pressure gauge for the H, no?
Ivan you make it look easy! HNY!
Hi Dave! Yeah this one was pretty straight-forward :)
they make resistor packs for the LED Headlights so they won't trigger the lamp out warning
that big diesel motor is rattling everything loose. ha
Are the Vice grips standard equipment? They look fact-tree.
A guy can't ever have too many vise grips 🇺🇸
No parts required for instrument cluster! Wiper motor C.O. D. Drowning!
Can I ask what scanner are you using mode and name please ❤
Thought owner said they replaced the wiper motor twice! With what? Used? (Maybe I missed it) otherwise, great video & diag Ivan!
Yeah IDK maybe junkyard parts??
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thinking so Ivan!
Sweet truck
They are random wipers, not intermittent. Replaced my wiper motor and alls good. 2005 3500
Logical process. Pretty good job.
I like it. You could do it, I can do it.👍
Hey ivan, not bad of a job for you. Just 1 parta cannon lol. Great video!
Hey Ivan, was wondering if you need owners permission to post your videos? That truck could possibly be recognizable to the locals. You know, in case of something personal is accidentally shown that might raise an eyebrow. Hehe. Nice vid
Great video. Anyone know which scan tool Ivan's using?
I would like to know this too?
I own one of these Animals, 1999 persuasion. 126k miles! Should have sold it but it’s become a hobby? Replacing parts!
Just looking at outside of vehicle, I'd turn it down or raise rate $1000... Guarantee on cluster? Why??
I had a hell of a hard time finding a cover for a 76 trans am wiper motor. They don’t make them.
you should of shown the location of the resistor in the dash and what you soldered that solved the display of mileage
ck past TSB's . reposition G-104 ground so no water intrusion to the wiper motor and inst cluster has TSB for weak solder joints , just saying = past TSB's can help you
Great content Ivan, but no bonus footage 😂
haha oops!
He replaced that wiper motor? When in 2005
When the truck was new
Why don't they use a resistor instead of multiple windings in that whiper motor.
I'm no expert but in my opinion its less prone to failure.
Is there any reason why the after market LED's don't work? I didn't understand??
Their resistance is too high. The TIPM looks for current draw.
They sell power resistors to provide the bypass of the LED bulb so the computer sees the low resistance expected of a regular bulb.
@@jkbrown5496 the inanity of it all is if you are dissipating power in a resistor you might as well run a conventional bulb.
@@thebigmacd Much better visibility with LED. Though I did see a 0.000001 mpg improvement too ;)
Good job
Привет, Иван! А у меня, все-равно, снега больше, чем у тебя! :))
Ты не ездил, недавно, в Вашингтон?
What is that cut wire near the wiper motor
They cut and bypassed the ground wire...in attempts to repair the problem I assume lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics some people do things so bad and there thinking so bad you just have to laugh
Ivan, you need to build a heated garage. I feel so bad that you have to work outside in such cold conditions.
Is it cold? I see 77 degrees on the thermometer and I'm still alive ...
I do have a heated garage, but it won't fit a full-size dually truck haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Иван, а какой самый сильный мороз ты видел ?
If he really likes those led bulbs you can just put load resisters on the light circuit to trick the bcm and the lamp out will not be an issue any more . I have to do this with a lot of my led loving customer's . No big deal really less are 💯% way better anyways
Beastly diag. lol Thanks Ivan!
Thanks John haha
I respectfully ask that you don't make a habit of this no bonus footage thing .Thank you.😜
It probably doesn't like the number it has to display.
с новым годом .много снега
3 wiper motors?? I call BS lol that thing looked rotted away like its been on the truck for a while.
Well ... it had been on a truck for a while , not necessarily this truck .
What scan tool is this Ivan? I need one.
Launch Diagun IV. I'll put a link in the description :)
LOUD? It's cold. Roll up the windows!!!
Hey guy any chance you can direct me with a Leroy air compressor for breaking concrete cranks but no start
Spark or fuel
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thanks it was a spark issue you are awesome guy, I can send you cash over the phone thanks again
@@rickastley6322 Are you THE Rick Astley?!? th-cam.com/video/dQw4w9WgXcQ/w-d-xo.html
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics just one thing my man, never going to give you up🤣🤣 naa my name is Rick but I grew up with his music soo 🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️