Are you saying the split hose was inside the fuel tank? I never heard of that, normally internal pipes are metal? I get my 2CV next year..in bits, so may do a mod if that is the case. Thanks for that Raymond.
Sorry if it wasn’t clear! The rubber pipe that split is on top of the tank, external. At the top of the tank a metal pipe comes out and the “rubber” pipe in question attaches to that outlet and then on to the main fuel pipe that runs to the front of the car. You can’t get to it without dropping the tank, hence it often goes overlooked and rots out or splits. Especially with E10 I guess. In effect the air leak stops the fuel pump being able to suck fuel from within the tank, as it sucks air through instead. Hope this helps, if not please feel free to drop me a mail on wolfieofbaildon@yahoo.com 👍🏻
@@WolfiesWheels Okay that makes sense and fuel additives are a big problem on rubber components. I get my 2CV next year and these are all really useful tips as the car has been off the road for 3 years and is in bits right now. I will renew that pipe before I start as a precaution. I will keep your email address for the future as these cars are far from straightforward...."vive la difference" is a phrase I dread. KISS "keep it simple stupid" is best. Thanks...easy to say now, but mechanical fuel pumps rarely go wrong so I would have checked for suction to start.
Mole grips or proper brake hose clamp will quickly clamp the fuel pipe shut. Adjacent to the pump would have been fine. Good call on the short pipe which was causing your problem.
You blocked the pipe with an M6 screw which has a 10mm hexagonal head?
Thank you! Appreciate the sharing of any knowledge!
Thanks for the kind comment 👍🏻
Thanks it will help me on my restauration
Are you saying the split hose was inside the fuel tank? I never heard of that, normally internal pipes are metal? I get my 2CV next year..in bits, so may do a mod if that is the case. Thanks for that Raymond.
Sorry if it wasn’t clear! The rubber pipe that split is on top of the tank, external. At the top of the tank a metal pipe comes out and the “rubber” pipe in question attaches to that outlet and then on to the main fuel pipe that runs to the front of the car. You can’t get to it without dropping the tank, hence it often goes overlooked and rots out or splits. Especially with E10 I guess. In effect the air leak stops the fuel pump being able to suck fuel from within the tank, as it sucks air through instead. Hope this helps, if not please feel free to drop me a mail on wolfieofbaildon@yahoo.com 👍🏻
@@WolfiesWheels Okay that makes sense and fuel additives are a big problem on rubber components. I get my 2CV next year and these are all really useful tips as the car has been off the road for 3 years and is in bits right now. I will renew that pipe before I start as a precaution. I will keep your email address for the future as these cars are far from straightforward...."vive la difference" is a phrase I dread. KISS "keep it simple stupid" is best. Thanks...easy to say now, but mechanical fuel pumps rarely go wrong so I would have checked for suction to start.
Mole grips or proper brake hose clamp will quickly clamp the fuel pipe shut. Adjacent to the pump would have been fine. Good call on the short pipe which was causing your problem.
Nice to see you using fuel pipe clamps and not jubilee clips
Hierarchy of fixings - gaffer tape ➡️ cable ties ➡️ jubilee clips ➡️ the right fixing for the job 🤣🤣
@chopper602. Aren't those jubilee clips in the video?
@@eeffendiableno, they screw fasteners for fuel pipes
For how long it takes, it's much easier when you take off the wing.
Reckon you’re right there 👍🏻