Thanks. I'll have to look into that. The audio playback before we publish is done with a laptop, so we don't notice if it's only playing through one speaker.
That is the best option if you don't want to worry about damaging a coating or take various precautions to prevent it. We discuss sealer options that work well for such workshops in this article: allgaragefloors.com/sealers-large-shop-garage-floors/
It's not necessary to pull the tiles up, particularly if you have a drain in the garage. However, it's very easy to do if you are concerned about the floor being dirty under the tiles. For example, it's not unusual for people who live in snow country to unsnap the section of tile a car parks on and haul it right out the door. This allows for easy cleaning of the winter debris. The tile section is then pulled back in and snapped back in place. Others just use a high pressure nozzle on their hose and blast the debris out from under the tiles since they have the channels underneath for water and debris to exit.
Hello. I just installed a new concrete floor in my 24 x 24 garage. After mechanically trowelling the floor, the concrete contractor applied Vocomp 20 and burnished the concrete. Now, I would like to apply a sealer and install Swisstrax tiles. In the beginning, I wanted to install a Polyurea coating but was discouraged from doing so. People tell me polyurea coating flakes off and don't last that long. Is this true? I really need help in deciding whats best for my needs. I detail cars in my garage as a hobby. Thanks
Your concrete is already sealed. Vocomp-20 is a cure-and-seal product for newly poured concrete. It's a film-forming acrylic topical sealer. Here is the link: www.wrmeadows.com/vocomp-20-concrete-curing-sealing-compound/ You can't apply any additional sealers or coatings to the concrete unless the Vomomp-20 is removed via grinding or some other mechanical means such as shotblasting. You can apply Swisstrax right over it if you like. We have a video that shows the correct was to install Swisstrax the correct way: th-cam.com/video/DiQcVLlfMIM/w-d-xo.html In regards to polyurea, it is one of the more tenacious bonding coatings when applied to concrete that is profiled properly. It can pull small chunks of concrete up with it during adhesion testing when installed properly. Prep is the MOST important step when applying coatings and the one people don't do well because they don't like to or don't want to. A strong etching solution is required at the minimum. Grinding is better. Flaking will only occur if the prep was not done properly or if the concrete was in poor shape to begin with. For example, if you chose to apply polyurea and tried to etch your concrete instead of grinding to remove the sealer that is now on it, the polyurea would flake right off because the etch would have been ineffective. I hope that helps.
@@allgaragefloors thank you very much for your informative response. Well appreciated. I have contacted the Vocomp 20 representative in my area and he confirmed that additional coats of Vocomp 20, 25 or 30 can be reapplied. If I decide to go with a different brand or type of sealer then mechanical removal is an obligation. In regards to the confirmation from the Vocomp rep, I will be going with the Vocomp 30 which helps with the winter dirt, grime and salt. Down the road, if the sealer doesn't respond anymore to my needs I will look into Swisstrax or Polyurea coating. Thank you.
It really depends on how the floor is used and what your personal preferences are. They both have their advantages and disadvantages. It's like asking which type of truck is best. It all depends on how you plan to use it.
@@gearlstrickland3365 We would recommend Swisstrax over a coating for washing cars. Coatings get extremely slippery when wet, particularly when soapy water is involved. It requires the application of a very aggressive anti-slip media to prevent slipping. The problem with such aggressive media is that it makes cleaning the floor difficult since microfiber mop pads and string mops want to stick to it and get torn up. If using Swisstrax, the water goes directly to the concrete below the tile. It's a popular flooring choice for detailers that wash cars inside. Most favor the Ribtrax Pro Smooth for washing cars. They say it provides more grip than the Ribtrax Pro for that purpose. Here is a link: bit.ly/3yjsNt6
Hi Robert. Condensation is an act of physics. A coating won't change that. Coatings take on the temperature of the concrete. When relatively warm moist air comes in contact with a cool surface (concrete/coating) that is below the dew point, the air will condense. Condensation, AKA sweating concrete, can be reduced or stopped altogether by employing various methods or different garage flooring. We discuss these methods and flooring in our article here about sweating concrete: allgaragefloors.com/how-to-stop-sweating-garage-floor/
Good info, but the audio seemed off. Most of the sound was coming out of just one speaker, the left side.
Thanks. I'll have to look into that. The audio playback before we publish is done with a laptop, so we don't notice if it's only playing through one speaker.
Good information. I plan to do welding and metal cutting, so I should go with penatrating sealer vs coating?
That is the best option if you don't want to worry about damaging a coating or take various precautions to prevent it. We discuss sealer options that work well for such workshops in this article: allgaragefloors.com/sealers-large-shop-garage-floors/
I’ve got a drain in my garage so when I wash my car if I use Swiss tracks will I have to take them up sometime?
It's not necessary to pull the tiles up, particularly if you have a drain in the garage. However, it's very easy to do if you are concerned about the floor being dirty under the tiles. For example, it's not unusual for people who live in snow country to unsnap the section of tile a car parks on and haul it right out the door. This allows for easy cleaning of the winter debris. The tile section is then pulled back in and snapped back in place. Others just use a high pressure nozzle on their hose and blast the debris out from under the tiles since they have the channels underneath for water and debris to exit.
Hello. I just installed a new concrete floor in my 24 x 24 garage. After mechanically trowelling the floor, the concrete contractor applied Vocomp 20 and burnished the concrete. Now, I would like to apply a sealer and install Swisstrax tiles. In the beginning, I wanted to install a Polyurea coating but was discouraged from doing so. People tell me polyurea coating flakes off and don't last that long. Is this true? I really need help in deciding whats best for my needs. I detail cars in my garage as a hobby. Thanks
Your concrete is already sealed. Vocomp-20 is a cure-and-seal product for newly poured concrete. It's a film-forming acrylic topical sealer. Here is the link: www.wrmeadows.com/vocomp-20-concrete-curing-sealing-compound/ You can't apply any additional sealers or coatings to the concrete unless the Vomomp-20 is removed via grinding or some other mechanical means such as shotblasting. You can apply Swisstrax right over it if you like. We have a video that shows the correct was to install Swisstrax the correct way: th-cam.com/video/DiQcVLlfMIM/w-d-xo.html
In regards to polyurea, it is one of the more tenacious bonding coatings when applied to concrete that is profiled properly. It can pull small chunks of concrete up with it during adhesion testing when installed properly. Prep is the MOST important step when applying coatings and the one people don't do well because they don't like to or don't want to. A strong etching solution is required at the minimum. Grinding is better. Flaking will only occur if the prep was not done properly or if the concrete was in poor shape to begin with. For example, if you chose to apply polyurea and tried to etch your concrete instead of grinding to remove the sealer that is now on it, the polyurea would flake right off because the etch would have been ineffective. I hope that helps.
@@allgaragefloors thank you very much for your informative response. Well appreciated. I have contacted the Vocomp 20 representative in my area and he confirmed that additional coats of Vocomp 20, 25 or 30 can be reapplied. If I decide to go with a different brand or type of sealer then mechanical removal is an obligation. In regards to the confirmation from the Vocomp rep, I will be going with the Vocomp 30 which helps with the winter dirt, grime and salt. Down the road, if the sealer doesn't respond anymore to my needs I will look into Swisstrax or Polyurea coating. Thank you.
@@mas5040 We are glad to help!
What’s the best to use the Swiss tracks or the epoxy coating?
It really depends on how the floor is used and what your personal preferences are. They both have their advantages and disadvantages. It's like asking which type of truck is best. It all depends on how you plan to use it.
Washing my cars
@@gearlstrickland3365 We would recommend Swisstrax over a coating for washing cars. Coatings get extremely slippery when wet, particularly when soapy water is involved. It requires the application of a very aggressive anti-slip media to prevent slipping. The problem with such aggressive media is that it makes cleaning the floor difficult since microfiber mop pads and string mops want to stick to it and get torn up. If using Swisstrax, the water goes directly to the concrete below the tile. It's a popular flooring choice for detailers that wash cars inside. Most favor the Ribtrax Pro Smooth for washing cars. They say it provides more grip than the Ribtrax Pro for that purpose. Here is a link: bit.ly/3yjsNt6
Is there a coating that does not attract condensations?
Hi Robert. Condensation is an act of physics. A coating won't change that. Coatings take on the temperature of the concrete. When relatively warm moist air comes in contact with a cool surface (concrete/coating) that is below the dew point, the air will condense. Condensation, AKA sweating concrete, can be reduced or stopped altogether by employing various methods or different garage flooring. We discuss these methods and flooring in our article here about sweating concrete: allgaragefloors.com/how-to-stop-sweating-garage-floor/