Im in florida I have a two car garage and just wanted a flooring that was budget friendly, durable and looked cool. My “garage queen” mustang looks even better with the flooring and I have a few motorcycles and now it’s a pleasure pulling in and parking them on these tiles
A great benefit of plastic tiles over epoxy is how easy they are on your knees if you're working 10+ hour days in your DIY garage all weekend. It's painful for me to stand on concrete for that long, but the tiles provide extra cushion that you'll notice after a long day.
You make an excellent point JT. Our last garage floor was interlocking tiles. We have not done anything with the garage floor of our new home yet since we have been busy organizing, painting, and installing lighting. We have definitely noticed the difference when standing out on the bare concrete for a few hours at a time.
I just went with the TrueLock Diamond Tile, bought it from Amazon and showed up 3 days later. I did just the walking area in the back of my garage to test it out (where the tools, ahem...beer fridge is, etc). This may have been the easiest thing I've ever done. I didn't need a rubber mallet to lock the tiles, just needed my foot to press down and lock them in. I locked about 15 tiles together and didn't like the noise they were making so I went to Home Depot and bought a 2mm underlayment for concrete and it reduced the walking noise significantly. Roughly 130 sq foot for tiles laid down in roughly 90 minutes. That includes cutting 9 tiles to fit the area and moving all my stuff back into place (including the beer fridge). I cut the tiles with a dremell which will slightly melt the tile edges along the cut but then I took a knife and quickly cut the melted shavings off. I absolutely plan to put this product on the rest of the garage where the cars park. Great video which ended up being my decision maker. 2 thumbs up!
@@allgaragefloors quick question, my garage looks great after I installed these tiles in the entire garage but when I pull my cars into the garage the tiles are rolling up a little creating a little hump on the floor. It looks like the tiles are sliding a little when the car tires roll over them. Anything I can do to prevent this?
@@mikefranck2375 We have never encountered tiles acting in such a manner. However, I believe the issue may be the concrete underlayment. It most likely provides a more slippery contact surface than the bare concrete provides against the tiles. The only underlayment that works properly for interlocking garage tiles is landscaping fabric. It's rougher for more grip and allows moisture transfer with no mold or mildew issues. We would recommend removing the first 2' or so of the underlayment at the front of the garage. This may prevent the first couple of rows of tiles from moving as the car rolls up onto their surface.
Hello Donald. Assuming you are looking at 12" square tiles, you would multiply the length and width of your space to get the approximate tile count. That would be 720 tiles. If the measurements are slightly larger than 20' or 30', then you would need an additional row to trim to fit. Don't forget to account for the ramp edges which are approximately 2" in length. Also, some website have a tile designer and calculator which can do all that for you.
I need to put tiles on a ‘ceramic tile’ floor, I want epoxy but its too much work to remove all the old tile, which is in great shape, I just hat e the ceramic tile & slipperiness, do you have a recommendation ion for cover ceramic? Thanks!
If the ceramic tile is flat, you can place either a rigid interlocking tile floor or flexible PVC interlocking tile over it. The brand does not matter.
Hi Dorothy. The floor does not need to be level, it just needs to be fairly flat. In other words, if the floor slopes toward the garage floor for drainage purposes, that is OK. If the floor makes gradual changes in slope (not completely flat), that is OK too. You don't want abrupt elevation changes or areas where the tile has to span large gaps. Does that answer your question?
As nice as this looks, I am prevented from using for two reasons. First , liquid penetration between tiles and secondly the ability to squeegee the floor in winter for quick clean up. Thanks for the video anyway!
Hi CAC. Sorry, night and day differences exist between the USA-made garage tiles and those made in China. We speak from years of experience in the industry.
How easy is it to cut tiles? I have a small mud room of my garage so it's not an exact rectangle. Also, can you put it right against the garage walls or do you need to leave some room for expansion/contraction?
Hi Mike. It's not hard to cut the tiles. Use a jigsaw or circular saw with a fine tooth blade to make your cuts. The tiles need to be 1/4" to 1/2" distant from all walls or immovable objects such as support columns.
I just ordered the Nitro tiles yesterday from eBay. $165 free shipping for a 5x10 2 color coin pattern. I understand I got "the cheap ones". However it's going to be in front of a tool box. Only me walking on it and maybe a shop stool. No vehicle will be on it probably ever. The one thing I might not be super excited about it's the gloss finished. But I'm undecided never seeing them in person.
You shouldn't have any problems with just foot traffic. The gloss looks nice, but it does require more frequent cleaning since it shows dust and footprints more.
The vented or self-draining tiles stay clean-looking for a much longer period. They also do not expand much in direct sunlight. If you work on cars, they are not as comfortable to lay on though as the solid top tiles.
Thanks for a very good and informative video. How well do these tiles protect the subfloor (in my case a cement floor in a garage) from water. Since I will be parking my car on these tiles, I don't want melted snow seeping through the tiles to the cement subfloor.
Hi Nelson. Interlocking tiles are not going to prevent water from reaching the concrete. This is why they have a structure underneath designed to circulate air. This helps to dry the concrete and drain water if the garage floor has a pitch towards the door. As a reference, many people in snow climates prefer the vented or self-draining tile top designs. The top of the tiles stay dry from snow melt and look cleaner. This article here explains more: allgaragefloors.com/winter-tips-interlocking-garage-tiles/
Yes. The underside structure of the tiles is designed to allow airflow and water to flow under the tiles. This aids the drying effect when the concrete gets wet.
@@gearlstrickland3365 A drain has advantages if you plan to wash cars in the garage. Keep in mind though that a concrete slab needs the proper slope for the drain to work efficiently. This means it won't be completely flat across the entire slab. Interlocking tiles will still work, but you will notice the slope. The self-draining or vented style of tiles is typically used by detailers and others so that water will go directly through the tile to the concrete to drain.
@@gearlstrickland3365 No, it's not necessary providing that the slab has the correct slope toward the garage door. However, the water will spread out more and be slower to move.
Hi Ernie. Interlocking tiles are becoming more popular to use as a gym floor in the garage since they have anti-fatigue properties. We would recommend the TrueLock Diamond or GarageDeck tiles. The Nitro tiles may begin looking scratched up due to the gloss finish on them. Just keep in mind you don't want to drop heavy weights on on the tiles like a typical floor at the gym. However, you can lay dense rubber mats over them to absorb the impact of dropping the weight for dead lifts and similar exercises.
I appreciate all the great information you are providing. My question is this. I want to use tiles in my garage but I do live in an area with snow. Do you recommend tile garage flooring for snow melt? Will that cause issues with the melt seeping into the cracks of the tiles?
Hello Jayson. Interlocking tile works well for garages in snowy climates. Keep in mind that they do not water-proof concrete. Only a coating will do that. In fact, the type of tile favored by many in snow climates is the ribbed, self-draining tiles. The reason is that snow melt and fluids drain to the concrete below to keep the floor dry and clean. In spring, you can hose out the debris directly through the tiles to clean the concrete or even pull out a section of flooring. The following article discusses choosing tiles for snowy climates: allgaragefloors.com/winter-tips-interlocking-garage-tiles/
What exactly does a rolling weight limit of 44,000 pounds mean? Is that the amount of weight that a tile can support if pressed down with a square flat plate the size of the full tile? So would that then translate to a weight limit of 305 pounds using a one inch square peg, if the tile was 1 square foot?
No, that would not be correct. Rolling weight limits are about vehicles and are a bit arbitrary. The square inches of the tire contact patch (typically much smaller than a full tile) determines what load is being applied to the tile. A P225/60R16 tire size has a footprint of approximately 37 square inches and would be applying the weight to 37 square inches of tile, not the 148. Also, rolling weight on the tiles produces a different force than static weight. For example, if you look at Swisstrax tiles, they report a rolling weight limit of 60,000 lbs. and a compressive force of 2500 lbs per square inch. You can see it here along with examples of very heavy vehicles on the tiles: www.swisstrax.com/garage-floor-tiles-faqs.html The key with interlocking tiles is that the weight being applied needs to have a flat contact patch. For example, jack stands with narrow-angle legs will apply a much higher force over a smaller area and damage the tile. However, jack stands with a small flat pad at each leg has a much larger area, and gives the tiles the ability to withstand a much higher force.
@@allgaragefloors From the link there, it says Swisstrax garage floor tiles are manufactured for a compressive strength of 2,500 psi and 60,000lbs rollover weight. I didn't see the tire size listed of the P225/60R16, but if that's the arbitrary industry standard, that could explain how the numbers are generated.
@@dubmob151 The tire size I listed was just an example to better illustrate how rolling weight can be distributed on a smaller section of tile, not the overall size. The industry does not list a standard method of how their numbers are determined or what actual testing is performed. However, after many years of experience, we can attest that their numbers appear to be in the approximate ballpark.
I have 3 questions. 1. Do I need to put a rubber mat down under a small portion of the tiles to prevent them from moving? 2. How much of a gap do I need to have next to my wall for it to move and flex? 3. How spot-on is the color? Can there be a color difference due to different lot numbers? Thanks for the video, I have started looking on how to upgrade my garage and your video really helped.
Hi Michael. The tiles are free-floating on the floor. No rubber mats are necessary. You need to leave a minimum of 1/2" between the tiles and walls. This also includes any immovable objects. There is rarely any difference in color lots. You can replace a single tile two years later and it will look the same.
@@allgaragefloors Are we allowed to put anything on top of these tiles, like a toolbox or a freezer, since this is a floating system or does it not matter?
@@michaelyurk860 Of course! :) You can place freezers, refrigerators, workbenches, toolboxes, storage cabinets, etc. All it requires is that the foot pad be flat. In other words, don't place something heavy on the tile with a thin angle iron foot pad or similar. Depending on the brand of interlocking tiles, they can withstand up to 3000 PSI if that square inch is flat and round/square. We have a refrigerator, three large storage cabinets, two rolling toolboxes, and a workbench on our tile floor. This article here will explain more about interlocking tiles: allgaragefloors.com/interlocking-garage-floor-tile/
@@allgaragefloors What about if you are putting the tile over a painted or epoxy garage floor, though? I think the rubber mat idea is recommended by some to keep the tiles from sliding around. I've read the weight of the car can push the tiles past the 1/2" gap on the edges and end up causing buckling.
@@LindaK1313 Hi Linda. Coatings and paint on the concrete can make the surface more slippery for the tiles. However, movement like that rarely occurs if the floor is covered wall to wall with the tiles. We do not recommend using any rubber mats unless such a problem presents itself. Even then, we would only recommend a strip of rubber matting for the first couple of feet near the garage door. Rubber mats can trap water and cause mold and mildew.
Hi John. I believe you are referring to the Bollard post. Just use a jigsaw to cut the semi-circle shape for each tile that would come in contact with it (up to 4 tiles). You need to maintain 1/2" clearance from the post. Making a template from a piece of cardboard or construction paper and then laying it over the tile to trace is the easiest method.
@@allgaragefloors great thanks. Also I was just looking on some of the sites and one sales a tile cutter. Is that something I need cause I would have no use for it after I’m done. Is there another alternative, like a table saw? Thanks
@@johnfeather5405 Yes, a table saw works well. Make sure to use a fine tooth blade and not one for rip cuts. A jigsaw with a straight-edge fence that you can clamp to the tile works also.
Ants, bugs, and other creepy crawly things could certainly find a pathway under the tiles. If that is a concern, preventive measures such as spraying should be performed before the tiles are placed. However, it can be a hindrance if an infestation occurs since it would require removing a section of tiles to spray unless you opt for the vented top tiles. I'm sure this has happened with someone, but we have yet to hear a problem with it.
Would any garage tiles hold up for a home mechanic? I'm concerned with using a Jack or jack stands on top of these. Was debating between garage tiles and epoxy, epoxy is going to cost too much and be too big of a hassle to install. Now I'm debating dress using a sealer, or using some flooring tiles like these
Yes, they do well provided you take some proper precautions. If using a rolling floor jack, it's necessary to place it on a cut piece of 1/4" or 5/16" plywood. This spreads the load and prevents the very small straight edge of the round wheel from sinking in. Jack stands should have flat feet and not angled feet. Rigid plastic interlocking tiles typically will withstand a few thousand pounds per square inch as long as the surface is flat. Our last garage was interlocking garage tiles. Our Mustang was/is used as a part-time track car and has undergone suspension changes, brake changes, transmission removal for clutches, and a host of other maintenance on the floor. Take a look at the 2nd video in this link to get a long-term review of a working garage: allgaragefloors.com/best-cheap-garage-tiles/
I have the GarageDeck coin pattern. The cheap HF jack stands will dent the plastic tile, so I bought some thin 1x1' diamond plate to put under the stands. You can also use thin plywood.
Im in florida I have a two car garage and just wanted a flooring that was budget friendly, durable and looked cool. My “garage queen” mustang looks even better with the flooring and I have a few motorcycles and now it’s a pleasure pulling in and parking them on these tiles
That's great to hear! Interlocking tiles can completely transform the look and function of a garage.
A great benefit of plastic tiles over epoxy is how easy they are on your knees if you're working 10+ hour days in your DIY garage all weekend. It's painful for me to stand on concrete for that long, but the tiles provide extra cushion that you'll notice after a long day.
You make an excellent point JT. Our last garage floor was interlocking tiles. We have not done anything with the garage floor of our new home yet since we have been busy organizing, painting, and installing lighting. We have definitely noticed the difference when standing out on the bare concrete for a few hours at a time.
After 3 months looking for garage tiles, I found your video that make finally my decision. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
We are glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this video!!! This is exactly what I needed!!
👍
I just went with the TrueLock Diamond Tile, bought it from Amazon and showed up 3 days later. I did just the walking area in the back of my garage to test it out (where the tools, ahem...beer fridge is, etc). This may have been the easiest thing I've ever done. I didn't need a rubber mallet to lock the tiles, just needed my foot to press down and lock them in. I locked about 15 tiles together and didn't like the noise they were making so I went to Home Depot and bought a 2mm underlayment for concrete and it reduced the walking noise significantly.
Roughly 130 sq foot for tiles laid down in roughly 90 minutes. That includes cutting 9 tiles to fit the area and moving all my stuff back into place (including the beer fridge). I cut the tiles with a dremell which will slightly melt the tile edges along the cut but then I took a knife and quickly cut the melted shavings off. I absolutely plan to put this product on the rest of the garage where the cars park. Great video which ended up being my decision maker. 2 thumbs up!
Fantastic!
@@allgaragefloors quick question, my garage looks great after I installed these tiles in the entire garage but when I pull my cars into the garage the tiles are rolling up a little creating a little hump on the floor. It looks like the tiles are sliding a little when the car tires roll over them. Anything I can do to prevent this?
@@mikefranck2375 We have never encountered tiles acting in such a manner. However, I believe the issue may be the concrete underlayment. It most likely provides a more slippery contact surface than the bare concrete provides against the tiles. The only underlayment that works properly for interlocking garage tiles is landscaping fabric. It's rougher for more grip and allows moisture transfer with no mold or mildew issues. We would recommend removing the first 2' or so of the underlayment at the front of the garage. This may prevent the first couple of rows of tiles from moving as the car rolls up onto their surface.
i have a 24 by 30 garage and im trying to figure out how many boxes i need to complete my entire floor can anyone help me out
Hello Donald. Assuming you are looking at 12" square tiles, you would multiply the length and width of your space to get the approximate tile count. That would be 720 tiles. If the measurements are slightly larger than 20' or 30', then you would need an additional row to trim to fit. Don't forget to account for the ramp edges which are approximately 2" in length. Also, some website have a tile designer and calculator which can do all that for you.
I need to put tiles on a ‘ceramic tile’ floor, I want epoxy but its too much work to remove all the old tile, which is in great shape, I just hat e the ceramic tile & slipperiness, do you have a recommendation ion for cover ceramic? Thanks!
If the ceramic tile is flat, you can place either a rigid interlocking tile floor or flexible PVC interlocking tile over it. The brand does not matter.
I have the 6 peg tile!…bought them on Amazon….they’re a great tile!…very durable, I get a ton of compliments…love em!…
That's great to hear, Rodney. Thanks for the confirmation.
How tuff are these products, i want to refloor my snowmobile shop floor, its a ride in ride out style, will my ski carbides cut these
Hi Susan. Snowmobiles are harsh on all flooring. You can either lay down plywood or replace the few tiles that get scratched up each spring.
Do these tiles work if the garage floor is not completely level? Great information, thank you for posting...
Hi Dorothy. The floor does not need to be level, it just needs to be fairly flat. In other words, if the floor slopes toward the garage floor for drainage purposes, that is OK. If the floor makes gradual changes in slope (not completely flat), that is OK too. You don't want abrupt elevation changes or areas where the tile has to span large gaps. Does that answer your question?
As nice as this looks, I am prevented from using for two reasons. First , liquid penetration between tiles and secondly the ability to squeegee the floor in winter for quick clean up. Thanks for the video anyway!
QQQ… are they slippery when wet? I was thinking of doing for a shed, and I ride / store my motorcycle in the shed
No, they are not very slippery when wet. The diamond top tiles generally provide the best wet grip.
LOL, "dont buy tiles made in china!" buy the same cheap tiles made in USA for twice the price instead.
Hi CAC. Sorry, night and day differences exist between the USA-made garage tiles and those made in China. We speak from years of experience in the industry.
How easy is it to cut tiles? I have a small mud room of my garage so it's not an exact rectangle. Also, can you put it right against the garage walls or do you need to leave some room for expansion/contraction?
Hi Mike. It's not hard to cut the tiles. Use a jigsaw or circular saw with a fine tooth blade to make your cuts. The tiles need to be 1/4" to 1/2" distant from all walls or immovable objects such as support columns.
I’m not getting your new videos
I just ordered the Nitro tiles yesterday from eBay. $165 free shipping for a 5x10 2 color coin pattern. I understand I got "the cheap ones". However it's going to be in front of a tool box. Only me walking on it and maybe a shop stool. No vehicle will be on it probably ever. The one thing I might not be super excited about it's the gloss finished. But I'm undecided never seeing them in person.
You shouldn't have any problems with just foot traffic. The gloss looks nice, but it does require more frequent cleaning since it shows dust and footprints more.
Thanks for the great videos. Is there an advantage for the Vented pattern vs the Diamond pattern ones?
The vented or self-draining tiles stay clean-looking for a much longer period. They also do not expand much in direct sunlight. If you work on cars, they are not as comfortable to lay on though as the solid top tiles.
Thanks for a very good and informative video. How well do these tiles protect the subfloor (in my case a cement floor in a garage) from water. Since I will be parking my car on these tiles, I don't want melted snow seeping through the tiles to the cement subfloor.
Hi Nelson. Interlocking tiles are not going to prevent water from reaching the concrete. This is why they have a structure underneath designed to circulate air. This helps to dry the concrete and drain water if the garage floor has a pitch towards the door. As a reference, many people in snow climates prefer the vented or self-draining tile top designs. The top of the tiles stay dry from snow melt and look cleaner. This article here explains more: allgaragefloors.com/winter-tips-interlocking-garage-tiles/
Will water run under it
Yes. The underside structure of the tiles is designed to allow airflow and water to flow under the tiles. This aids the drying effect when the concrete gets wet.
@@allgaragefloors getting ready to build a home would you put a drain in the garage for I wash the cars?
@@gearlstrickland3365 A drain has advantages if you plan to wash cars in the garage. Keep in mind though that a concrete slab needs the proper slope for the drain to work efficiently. This means it won't be completely flat across the entire slab. Interlocking tiles will still work, but you will notice the slope. The self-draining or vented style of tiles is typically used by detailers and others so that water will go directly through the tile to the concrete to drain.
@@allgaragefloors is it necessary to have a drain
@@gearlstrickland3365 No, it's not necessary providing that the slab has the correct slope toward the garage door. However, the water will spread out more and be slower to move.
Do you recommend any of these if Half of my garage is a gym?
Hi Ernie. Interlocking tiles are becoming more popular to use as a gym floor in the garage since they have anti-fatigue properties. We would recommend the TrueLock Diamond or GarageDeck tiles. The Nitro tiles may begin looking scratched up due to the gloss finish on them. Just keep in mind you don't want to drop heavy weights on on the tiles like a typical floor at the gym. However, you can lay dense rubber mats over them to absorb the impact of dropping the weight for dead lifts and similar exercises.
I appreciate all the great information you are providing. My question is this. I want to use tiles in my garage but I do live in an area with snow. Do you recommend tile garage flooring for snow melt? Will that cause issues with the melt seeping into the cracks of the tiles?
Hello Jayson. Interlocking tile works well for garages in snowy climates. Keep in mind that they do not water-proof concrete. Only a coating will do that. In fact, the type of tile favored by many in snow climates is the ribbed, self-draining tiles. The reason is that snow melt and fluids drain to the concrete below to keep the floor dry and clean. In spring, you can hose out the debris directly through the tiles to clean the concrete or even pull out a section of flooring. The following article discusses choosing tiles for snowy climates: allgaragefloors.com/winter-tips-interlocking-garage-tiles/
@@allgaragefloors Thank you for the additional information!
What exactly does a rolling weight limit of 44,000 pounds mean? Is that the amount of weight that a tile can support if pressed down with a square flat plate the size of the full tile? So would that then translate to a weight limit of 305 pounds using a one inch square peg, if the tile was 1 square foot?
No, that would not be correct. Rolling weight limits are about vehicles and are a bit arbitrary. The square inches of the tire contact patch (typically much smaller than a full tile) determines what load is being applied to the tile. A P225/60R16 tire size has a footprint of approximately 37 square inches and would be applying the weight to 37 square inches of tile, not the 148. Also, rolling weight on the tiles produces a different force than static weight. For example, if you look at Swisstrax tiles, they report a rolling weight limit of 60,000 lbs. and a compressive force of 2500 lbs per square inch. You can see it here along with examples of very heavy vehicles on the tiles: www.swisstrax.com/garage-floor-tiles-faqs.html The key with interlocking tiles is that the weight being applied needs to have a flat contact patch. For example, jack stands with narrow-angle legs will apply a much higher force over a smaller area and damage the tile. However, jack stands with a small flat pad at each leg has a much larger area, and gives the tiles the ability to withstand a much higher force.
@@allgaragefloors From the link there, it says Swisstrax garage floor tiles are manufactured for a compressive strength of 2,500 psi and 60,000lbs rollover weight.
I didn't see the tire size listed of the P225/60R16, but if that's the arbitrary industry standard, that could explain how the numbers are generated.
@@dubmob151 The tire size I listed was just an example to better illustrate how rolling weight can be distributed on a smaller section of tile, not the overall size. The industry does not list a standard method of how their numbers are determined or what actual testing is performed. However, after many years of experience, we can attest that their numbers appear to be in the approximate ballpark.
Fantastic review! 👍
Glad you liked it!
I have 3 questions. 1. Do I need to put a rubber mat down under a small portion of the tiles to prevent them from moving? 2. How much of a gap do I need to have next to my wall for it to move and flex? 3. How spot-on is the color? Can there be a color difference due to different lot numbers? Thanks for the video, I have started looking on how to upgrade my garage and your video really helped.
Hi Michael. The tiles are free-floating on the floor. No rubber mats are necessary. You need to leave a minimum of 1/2" between the tiles and walls. This also includes any immovable objects. There is rarely any difference in color lots. You can replace a single tile two years later and it will look the same.
@@allgaragefloors Are we allowed to put anything on top of these tiles, like a toolbox or a freezer, since this is a floating system or does it not matter?
@@michaelyurk860 Of course! :) You can place freezers, refrigerators, workbenches, toolboxes, storage cabinets, etc. All it requires is that the foot pad be flat. In other words, don't place something heavy on the tile with a thin angle iron foot pad or similar. Depending on the brand of interlocking tiles, they can withstand up to 3000 PSI if that square inch is flat and round/square. We have a refrigerator, three large storage cabinets, two rolling toolboxes, and a workbench on our tile floor. This article here will explain more about interlocking tiles: allgaragefloors.com/interlocking-garage-floor-tile/
@@allgaragefloors What about if you are putting the tile over a painted or epoxy garage floor, though? I think the rubber mat idea is recommended by some to keep the tiles from sliding around. I've read the weight of the car can push the tiles past the 1/2" gap on the edges and end up causing buckling.
@@LindaK1313 Hi Linda. Coatings and paint on the concrete can make the surface more slippery for the tiles. However, movement like that rarely occurs if the floor is covered wall to wall with the tiles. We do not recommend using any rubber mats unless such a problem presents itself. Even then, we would only recommend a strip of rubber matting for the first couple of feet near the garage door. Rubber mats can trap water and cause mold and mildew.
Great video. How do I cut around the post that prevents you from going through the wall that I have in my garage ?
Thanks
Hi John. I believe you are referring to the Bollard post. Just use a jigsaw to cut the semi-circle shape for each tile that would come in contact with it (up to 4 tiles). You need to maintain 1/2" clearance from the post. Making a template from a piece of cardboard or construction paper and then laying it over the tile to trace is the easiest method.
@@allgaragefloors great thanks. Also I was just looking on some of the sites and one sales a tile cutter. Is that something I need cause I would have no use for it after I’m done. Is there another alternative, like a table saw?
Thanks
@@johnfeather5405 Yes, a table saw works well. Make sure to use a fine tooth blade and not one for rip cuts. A jigsaw with a straight-edge fence that you can clamp to the tile works also.
@@allgaragefloors thanks
Are tiles like these a hindrance to cleaning , removing infestations like ants? Trying to see if tiles are a hygienic option in the long run vs epoxy
Ants, bugs, and other creepy crawly things could certainly find a pathway under the tiles. If that is a concern, preventive measures such as spraying should be performed before the tiles are placed. However, it can be a hindrance if an infestation occurs since it would require removing a section of tiles to spray unless you opt for the vented top tiles. I'm sure this has happened with someone, but we have yet to hear a problem with it.
@@allgaragefloors thank you
Would any garage tiles hold up for a home mechanic? I'm concerned with using a Jack or jack stands on top of these.
Was debating between garage tiles and epoxy, epoxy is going to cost too much and be too big of a hassle to install.
Now I'm debating dress using a sealer, or using some flooring tiles like these
Yes, they do well provided you take some proper precautions. If using a rolling floor jack, it's necessary to place it on a cut piece of 1/4" or 5/16" plywood. This spreads the load and prevents the very small straight edge of the round wheel from sinking in. Jack stands should have flat feet and not angled feet. Rigid plastic interlocking tiles typically will withstand a few thousand pounds per square inch as long as the surface is flat. Our last garage was interlocking garage tiles. Our Mustang was/is used as a part-time track car and has undergone suspension changes, brake changes, transmission removal for clutches, and a host of other maintenance on the floor. Take a look at the 2nd video in this link to get a long-term review of a working garage: allgaragefloors.com/best-cheap-garage-tiles/
I have the GarageDeck coin pattern. The cheap HF jack stands will dent the plastic tile, so I bought some thin 1x1' diamond plate to put under the stands. You can also use thin plywood.