Did you add a tray or just throw a strap in it? I was wrong about the battery size, turns out the one I was using was just slightly wider than a normal Zee stick pack. The Zee stick packs fit perfectly. For the most part, I run shorty packs as well.
@@YARCWest I just put the Velcro strap it came with through the slots in the front. I don’t plan on using the nimh battery it came with. All the batteries I have right now are shorty packs. This is my first 1/10 scale rc. Everything else has been 1/14 or smaller.
Another commenter below mentioned frying their electronics and my guess is that it was the shoddy battery that came with the truck, so probably a good idea not to sure the stock battery.
That's awesome! The motor seems good to me from the runs I've done, putting in a better ESC and you can really notice the difference in slow crawl, makes a huge difference in conquering your lines.
Right under where is reads Quicrun 1060 it should show 2S-3S lipo, if if you don’t see that it’s probably a bad idea to run 3S. As far as adjustments, just make sure the jumpers are set to LiPo and not Nihm
Appreciate you checking it out! I haven't had any major issues so far but there have been a couple, I have a play list up with all the vids on this and the R1001.
The link for the truck is in the description, do you mean a specific item that is not the truck? In the upgrade video of this I have everything I used linked in the description. I'd recommend a different servo through, as you'll see in the video it is slightly taller and causes minor issues with fitment.
I have one. It's not a fantastic deal like the Beluga unless you absolutely must have the Wrangler body. This one is also the weird wheelbase like the Beluga. I'll feel better if they start selling Wrangler bodies like the Beluga/Bronco. The locking differentials are for you or not for you depending on what you want. The Wrangler body was an absolute must have for me, so I went for it. I've already put in spare TRX4 Sport axle units I bought from Jennys RC as well as some other odds and ends. One major thing you can't do, at least not without major work, is put in an official TRX4 battery holder. The stock HB Toys battery holder isn't great, but if you get a longer piece of velcro and wrap it around the tray instead of using the holes in the tray it's fine.
Yeah I found the battery tray too narrow for a normal stick pack. I personally don't care for locking diffs as it is just another point of possible failure, which my rear diff already stopped locking, so I need to pull the axel cover off again and sort it. I'm hoping to run it again tomorrow and so how she does with all the upgrades in put into it.
@@YARCWest the battery will probably fit if you yank out the stock Velcro. Then you'd wrap the longer Velcro around the whole holder, not reusing the slots the stock Velcro slid in. Good luck with the one locker. Hopefully the problem is with the servo and not inside the diff itself.
When I was greasing it I ran it slow crawl with the cover off and noticed that the pin the servo triggers was coming out, it’s probably more of my doing than a fault in the design. If it is what I think it is, should be an easy fix.
Mine is a disaster, never got it wet. The steering servo went first, then the ESC shorted out and caught on fire, it ruined the motor and somehow the transmission/gearbox to.
@YARCWest I don't think it's salvageable, unless I can get a new transmission/ gearbox. Is your controller throttle really sensitive ? If I put minimal pressure on mine, it took off. Also, my light bar quit working properly to. I don't know if I git a lemon or what ?!?
It wasn’t too bad on sensitivity but I basically only ran in low gear and did tweak the throttle trim when i first got it. I only ran it once on the stock electronics before upgrading it. Sounds like you did get a lemon, I betting poor battery and transmitter.
@YARCWest Thanks for the information, I think I'll just return it and hopefully get a full refund. Maybe I'll invest it into another or just get something else. I dunno 🤷
Yup, the motor comes with a switch to plug into your receiver (in channel 2), a power button like an ESC would have, and a connection for your battery. Hobbywing uses XT60 so it would be different than stock Dean's Connector, or T-Plug, that comes stock with the truck. The motor/ ESC combo is rated for 2S or 3S. The only issue you're going to run into, that I know of since I haven't actually done the upgrade yet, is that your power button isn't going to reach the rear of the truck like the stock 1060 ESC does. Same thing with the 1080 ESC upgrade in my R1001 video. I had to tape it next to the ESC.
@@YARCWest cool, thanks. I have some T-deans connectors at hand and also extending the power switch cables should be pretty easy. Thanks for the suggestion. Now I think my Beluga will go brushless soon :) for the price of the motor combo, it is a no brainer. Thanks again.
Awesome! And for sure, the cost to upgrade the R1001 to peak performance is still $100 cheaper than a box stock TRX4, and that includes the Ford decal and Bronco grill lol
The receiver is most certainly not IPX4. They make that claim because it is surrounded in a hard shell but there is still a point of ingress at the top and I'd wager the sides as well.
It really depends. If you place a high value on the wrangler body, the light bar, or having the locking/ unlocking differentials, then the R1011 would probably be the way to go. Personally I prefer to have always on 4WD and don't want locking diffs. If none of that matters to you, and price is important, I would say the R1001 is for you. All the stock electronics are the same for both trucks. The upgrade path for both vehicles are the same and you can put in a brushless Fusion SE into the R1001 and you're at the same cost as the R1011 with a far superior motor and ESC. Additionally, a lot of the TRX4 Bronco scale upgrades will fit on the R1001.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
cool truck, love the lights, nice place for trailing/crawling 👍👍👌👌
Thanks! I need better waterproof boots haha
Really good insight into the car, loved the montage at the end too!
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice care and light machine. I like the optical lock info, too
Appreciate you checking it out!
Good looking ride! Nice crawling while it lasted. :)
haha yeah just a bit frustrating
Awesome video that place is beautiful!
It really is!
Awesome and very usefull Review my Friend ❤!
Thks for the share 🐻❄️🏆🐼👌🏻
Thanks!
You're welcome my Friend ❤
Cheers
I’ve been running a shorty lipos in the front battery tray on my R1001. Seems to work pretty good
Did you add a tray or just throw a strap in it? I was wrong about the battery size, turns out the one I was using was just slightly wider than a normal Zee stick pack. The Zee stick packs fit perfectly. For the most part, I run shorty packs as well.
@@YARCWest I just put the Velcro strap it came with through the slots in the front. I don’t plan on using the nimh battery it came with. All the batteries I have right now are shorty packs. This is my first 1/10 scale rc. Everything else has been 1/14 or smaller.
Another commenter below mentioned frying their electronics and my guess is that it was the shoddy battery that came with the truck, so probably a good idea not to sure the stock battery.
That's awesome! The motor seems good to me from the runs I've done, putting in a better ESC and you can really notice the difference in slow crawl, makes a huge difference in conquering your lines.
@@YARCWest thanks man. Just got my upgrades today. Can’t wait to install them.
I haven’t seen them in person, but the tires look like the Traxxas Canyon Trail 1.9 to me.
I believe you are absolutely correct on the tire ID
thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out!
Hi their
can i put in a 3s battery right away? or needs some adjustments..?
Right under where is reads Quicrun 1060 it should show 2S-3S lipo, if if you don’t see that it’s probably a bad idea to run 3S. As far as adjustments, just make sure the jumpers are set to LiPo and not Nihm
@@YARCWest I see it thanks for the quick reply..💥
Nice overview, well done!
Any additional issues with it since this video?
I’ll have to look and see if you have other videos on it. Subscribed. 👍✌️
Appreciate you checking it out! I haven't had any major issues so far but there have been a couple, I have a play list up with all the vids on this and the R1001.
is there anyway to turn off the red lights at the front using the remote?
I'd need to fire it up again to check but I'm pretty sure I was able to turn off all the lights so the indicators wouldn't flash.
@@YARCWest okay, but can you see if you can turn off the red lights while all the other lights are still on? Thanks!
When you say red lights, you mean the turn indicators/ blinkers/ turn signals?
No, I meant the red lights around the headlights (idk what they're called😅).
Ah, I think they're called halo lights!
Can you link the part you used. I’m thinking about getting this.
The link for the truck is in the description, do you mean a specific item that is not the truck? In the upgrade video of this I have everything I used linked in the description. I'd recommend a different servo through, as you'll see in the video it is slightly taller and causes minor issues with fitment.
I have one. It's not a fantastic deal like the Beluga unless you absolutely must have the Wrangler body. This one is also the weird wheelbase like the Beluga. I'll feel better if they start selling Wrangler bodies like the Beluga/Bronco. The locking differentials are for you or not for you depending on what you want.
The Wrangler body was an absolute must have for me, so I went for it. I've already put in spare TRX4 Sport axle units I bought from Jennys RC as well as some other odds and ends. One major thing you can't do, at least not without major work, is put in an official TRX4 battery holder. The stock HB Toys battery holder isn't great, but if you get a longer piece of velcro and wrap it around the tray instead of using the holes in the tray it's fine.
Yeah I found the battery tray too narrow for a normal stick pack. I personally don't care for locking diffs as it is just another point of possible failure, which my rear diff already stopped locking, so I need to pull the axel cover off again and sort it. I'm hoping to run it again tomorrow and so how she does with all the upgrades in put into it.
@@YARCWest the battery will probably fit if you yank out the stock Velcro. Then you'd wrap the longer Velcro around the whole holder, not reusing the slots the stock Velcro slid in.
Good luck with the one locker. Hopefully the problem is with the servo and not inside the diff itself.
When I was greasing it I ran it slow crawl with the cover off and noticed that the pin the servo triggers was coming out, it’s probably more of my doing than a fault in the design. If it is what I think it is, should be an easy fix.
Oh boy, turns out it was not the servo or locker, check out the most recent post on my community page lol
Mine is a disaster, never got it wet. The steering servo went first, then the ESC shorted out and caught on fire, it ruined the motor and somehow the transmission/gearbox to.
Jesus! That’s terrible! You think it’s salvageable or is it even worth trying? I wonder if they sent you a bad battery
@YARCWest I don't think it's salvageable, unless I can get a new transmission/ gearbox. Is your controller throttle really sensitive ? If I put minimal pressure on mine, it took off. Also, my light bar quit working properly to. I don't know if I git a lemon or what ?!?
It wasn’t too bad on sensitivity but I basically only ran in low gear and did tweak the throttle trim when i first got it. I only ran it once on the stock electronics before upgrading it. Sounds like you did get a lemon, I betting poor battery and transmitter.
Oh, the transmission and gearbox is $25 on Banggood. It’s for the R1001 but I’m pretty sure they’re the same
@YARCWest Thanks for the information, I think I'll just return it and hopefully get a full refund. Maybe I'll invest it into another or just get something else. I dunno 🤷
Cool video. I can't wait for the upgrade part..I might be replacing the motor in my R1001. Do you recommend the same Hobbywing motor?
I do! It's a sensored brushless motor/ esc combo designed specifically for crawling and trailing
@@YARCWest so basically I get rid of the 1060 esc, replace the motor and I am good to go? And also 3s too?
Yup, the motor comes with a switch to plug into your receiver (in channel 2), a power button like an ESC would have, and a connection for your battery. Hobbywing uses XT60 so it would be different than stock Dean's Connector, or T-Plug, that comes stock with the truck. The motor/ ESC combo is rated for 2S or 3S. The only issue you're going to run into, that I know of since I haven't actually done the upgrade yet, is that your power button isn't going to reach the rear of the truck like the stock 1060 ESC does. Same thing with the 1080 ESC upgrade in my R1001 video. I had to tape it next to the ESC.
@@YARCWest cool, thanks. I have some T-deans connectors at hand and also extending the power switch cables should be pretty easy. Thanks for the suggestion. Now I think my Beluga will go brushless soon :) for the price of the motor combo, it is a no brainer. Thanks again.
Awesome! And for sure, the cost to upgrade the R1001 to peak performance is still $100 cheaper than a box stock TRX4, and that includes the Ford decal and Bronco grill lol
You should check what ipx4 means, everybody think, yeah its waterproof but nobody checks IPX4 specs before they complain about its not waterproof.
The receiver is most certainly not IPX4. They make that claim because it is surrounded in a hard shell but there is still a point of ingress at the top and I'd wager the sides as well.
R1001 or r1011 do you recommend.
It really depends. If you place a high value on the wrangler body, the light bar, or having the locking/ unlocking differentials, then the R1011 would probably be the way to go. Personally I prefer to have always on 4WD and don't want locking diffs. If none of that matters to you, and price is important, I would say the R1001 is for you. All the stock electronics are the same for both trucks. The upgrade path for both vehicles are the same and you can put in a brushless Fusion SE into the R1001 and you're at the same cost as the R1011 with a far superior motor and ESC. Additionally, a lot of the TRX4 Bronco scale upgrades will fit on the R1001.
@@YARCWest thank you
@@SharainWarman No problem! I hope that answer was helpful. I know "it depends" isn't always a great response.
Size tire?
Stock is 1.9inch 115x48mm