I've complemented you guys before on producing some of the best 'how to' videos (and you guys have humbly & graciously acknowledged the praise) but when you guys keep putting out tip top videos, i'm going to keep telling you guys you second to none! Writing the visual text book of DIY auto repair!!
@18:45 you dont need thread locker on a Ford Focus especially if you live in the rustbelt, you might consider using antiseize on every bolt you remove and reinstall.
On my 2009 ford focus I ended up using the slide hammer and taking off the strut completely and it made it way easier! Obviously it’d be nice to have a car hoist to get under it but I managed from the side.
If you don't have an air chisel, what are your options to push the axle/axle stud inwards? Can you put the nut on backwards and hammer on that (replacing the nut later)? 6:45
great video, I watched you do the pass side also, why didnt you just remove the lower ball joint and tie rod on the drivers side like you did the pass side? looks easier doing the ball joint drop vs the strut.
some times it makes it easier by using a wedge to open the pinch bolt section open a bit before assembling ,makes it easier to slip over the strut, thanks for showing us ive mine to do yet on my focus. greetings from Wales UK.
Just a recommendation when you’ve removed the old shaft you should recommend or atleast check out the transmission seal where the shaft goes in. Only saying this because the carrier barring was wore out on my wife’s which caused the trans seal to begin to leak. Great video though thanks for all the advice
Thank you Jonsi4721, I was torquing my 2007 Ford Focus at 266 ft, but my torque wrench wasn’t clicking, then I brought it down to 250, still wasn’t clicking so I figured it wasn’t right so I came back here to look in the comments and I saw your 196ft Post. Thanks a lot. I’d like to thank 1A also because there aren’t a lot of post for this driver side axle. Was a pain getting that axle out, I stock a crowbarI in between and hit the crowbar with a sledge hammer, and it finally worked, may need one of those axle tools in the future.
For removing the shock absorber/strut at the bottom, I use the "squeeze bolt" and insert a piece of 1/4" steel plate in the gap on the backside of the knuckle squeeze joint. I then use the squeeze bolt, except I screw it into the threaded part and tighten the bolt against the steel plate just enough to cause the squeeze joint to expand a couple of thousandths of an inch; just enough to release the bottom of the shock/strut. No pounding with a hammer involved! Easy peasy! Sorry, I don't have a picture of what I'm trying to describe.
The uk 🇬🇧 version Ford focus 09 diesel doesn’t have the c clip or snap ring and I can’t get the axel back in the final inch yes i have bonked it it looks identical to the one I took off I put the old one back in goes in like butter the new one will not go back in that tiny little bit any advice I’ve used loob
+JOE FORD DIY Thanks for checking us out! You should be able to locate locking pliers at any Home Depot or local hardware store. Hope this helps you out!
Should be the same for a manual trans. The correct transmission fluid for the Focus manual trans (the 5 speed one) is Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. It's kind of expensive, but by far the best fluid for that transmission. If you want to go cheaper get some gear oil that is rated GL-4 (not GL-5) 75w/90. It will also work.
I used a plastic mallet to bonk the end of the axle as I pulled on the knuckle. The end of the axle will get pushed in with each bonk. Remember to bonk it, not whack it. Lol
Close to the end of the video when he was tightening the axle? He could have been remove the caliper and the rotor because at the end of the video he took everything off you should have done that the first part of the video so he wouldn't have to do it at the end of the operation process. But other then that great video. But also I see you installed a new rotorandd caliper installed but it was not showed in the video which is okay because it could have been took off anyway if you was to replace everything in that area
It's supposed to be split so it can compress when it goes in and then expand again into the groove in the transmission to hold the driveshaft in place.
For the life of me I don't know why he didn't just remove the brake caliper. It would have made the work so much easier with it out of the way and only takes about ten minutes to remove it.
Under the part list for the 2012 ford focus on Rock Auto, it has 2 different CV axles listed for the driver side. One has 27 teeth and the other has 34 teeth. How do you know which one will work for the specific application? Obviously tooth count has some effect on things or it wouldn't list the count.
+Joseph Lopez The differences could be for automatic vs manual transmissions. You would need to check all the listing details for your specific model prior to ordering.
@@1AAuto Yes, it turned out the differences between the CV axles was in fact the auto or manual. The confusion was made when I searched for the axle and rock auto did not have the part in question listed as auto or manual. I contacted them and got it figured out. Forgot to ask during my last message. What amount of torque is needed to remove or tighten the nut on the hub?
Great video but dude, two bolts and the caliper is off and you can hang it to the side out of the way. Having watched the video to the end, I see you removed the caliper and maybe replaced it with a new one. You also fitted new pads and rotor. You didn't chisel the hub nut into the spline on the shaft to prevent it from coming loose and falling off. Very dangerous.
I have a cordless Milwaukee impact wrench and that baby will rip anything off. You guys need to get some cordless tools over there at 1A. You're still use on the old-fashioned stuff. I don't have to have a hose dangling. You can get this Milwaukee in really tight spots. Surely you make enough money off of all those parts you sell. Those things are outrageously priced. I usually use eBay or RockAuto and get my stuff for 1/4 the price.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Txbnredor😂 zz‐
I've complemented you guys before on producing some of the best 'how to' videos (and you guys have humbly & graciously acknowledged the praise) but when you guys keep putting out tip top videos, i'm going to keep telling you guys you second to none!
Writing the visual text book of DIY auto repair!!
+Matthew Zuber Thanks for the positive feedback and taking the time to share it!
@18:45 you dont need thread locker on a Ford Focus especially if you live in the rustbelt, you might consider using antiseize on every bolt you remove and reinstall.
The spring and strut magically renewed itself halfway through this 😂
And the rotter and caliper 😂
thx! seems do-able. when i do my axle, i hope it magically gets new shocks, rotors, calipers and lines
On my 2009 ford focus I ended up using the slide hammer and taking off the strut completely and it made it way easier! Obviously it’d be nice to have a car hoist to get under it but I managed from the side.
mechanic terminology "light bonk! heavy bonk!!" its good :) thanks for helping with my install.
I was dying when the trans fluid dumped on the ground.
If you don't have an air chisel, what are your options to push the axle/axle stud inwards? Can you put the nut on backwards and hammer on that (replacing the nut later)? 6:45
This is great. any differences between ABS cars and non ABS? Is there an ABS ring that needs to be added or checked?
Would this be effective if focus is a manual transmission? And how would if any transmission fluid be added?
Great detailed video. Thanks. Don't worry about that oil, get the new guy to clean it up. 😂
This is really helpful even though my manual 11" has 3 drive shafts, the passenger side is 2 pieces with waaay beefier mount for the bearing
You forgot to mention about reattaching the tie rod end to the knuckle, tightening it with the castle nut, and using a cotter pin to hold it in place.
+RbNetEngr Thanks for the feedback!
great video, I watched you do the pass side also, why didnt you just remove the lower ball joint and tie rod on the drivers side like you did the pass side? looks easier doing the ball joint drop vs the strut.
some times it makes it easier by using a wedge to open the pinch bolt section open a bit before assembling ,makes it easier to slip over the strut, thanks for showing us ive mine to do yet on my focus. greetings from Wales UK.
"Okay, let's keep on bonking".... LOL
Great video production. Thanks for sharing 👌🏽
Just a recommendation when you’ve removed the old shaft you should recommend or atleast check out the transmission seal where the shaft goes in. Only saying this because the carrier barring was wore out on my wife’s which caused the trans seal to begin to leak. Great video though thanks for all the advice
+Cj Hansen Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
21:59 he says torque it to 266 ft lbs.... this is incorrect. 266 is newton meters setting for torque. 196 ft lbs is conversion.
+Jonsi4721 Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Thank you Jonsi4721, I was torquing my 2007 Ford Focus at 266 ft, but my torque wrench wasn’t clicking, then I brought it down to 250, still wasn’t clicking so I figured it wasn’t right so I came back here to look in the comments and I saw your 196ft Post. Thanks a lot. I’d like to thank 1A also because there aren’t a lot of post for this driver side axle. Was a pain getting that axle out, I stock a crowbarI in between and hit the crowbar with a sledge hammer, and it finally worked, may need one of those axle tools in the future.
He said 66 ft lbs
For removing the shock absorber/strut at the bottom, I use the "squeeze bolt" and insert a piece of 1/4" steel plate in the gap on the backside of the knuckle squeeze joint. I then use the squeeze bolt, except I screw it into the threaded part and tighten the bolt against the steel plate just enough to cause the squeeze joint to expand a couple of thousandths of an inch; just enough to release the bottom of the shock/strut. No pounding with a hammer involved! Easy peasy! Sorry, I don't have a picture of what I'm trying to describe.
+Brian Weber Thanks for the tip!
I found parts for my car on your site. Is the process the same on a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid? Any specific tool required?
Come on man hehe NOo not the same it’s totally different car. Just take it to the mechanic man sounds like that would be your best choice.
Did you put a new strut too?
The uk 🇬🇧 version Ford focus 09 diesel doesn’t have the c clip or snap ring and I can’t get the axel back in the final inch yes i have bonked it it looks identical to the one I took off I put the old one back in goes in like butter the new one will not go back in that tiny little bit any advice I’ve used loob
Why not undoing the ball joint and tie rod instead. Been doing this for 22 years and I personally think he got it done the harder way.
+Luis Amaya We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
“It went from a light BONK to a heavy BONK” BONK on my friends!
DON'T NEED LOCKING PLIERS...End link shaft has an Allen key slot to hold it.
len where can I buy a pair of those locking pliers you used in this video ? I like this type of jaws
+JOE FORD DIY Thanks for checking us out! You should be able to locate locking pliers at any Home Depot or local hardware store. Hope this helps you out!
Why on the one side you took off the lower control arm and then on the other side you went through the strut?
Excellent detail Video, thank you 🙏
What is a veericle?
Dont ask sirry questions!
is this similar for the manual trans focus? anything different? and is there a recommended transmission fluid
Should be the same for a manual trans. The correct transmission fluid for the Focus manual trans (the 5 speed one) is Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. It's kind of expensive, but by far the best fluid for that transmission. If you want to go cheaper get some gear oil that is rated GL-4 (not GL-5) 75w/90. It will also work.
Is there supposed to be a space between hub and cv axle
The way he says vehicle 😂
How would I drive the axle out of the hub if I don't have access to an air hammer?
I used a plastic mallet to bonk the end of the axle as I pulled on the knuckle. The end of the axle will get pushed in with each bonk. Remember to bonk it, not whack it. Lol
I just used a hammer and beat the crap out of it to get it out
Thanks for the advice. Was doing the bottom arm first
+Louis G. Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What if I just need to replace the boot, do I have to take the whole dang thing apart 😭?
Close to the end of the video when he was tightening the axle? He could have been remove the caliper and the rotor because at the end of the video he took everything off you should have done that the first part of the video so he wouldn't have to do it at the end of the operation process. But other then that great video. But also I see you installed a new rotorandd caliper installed but it was not showed in the video which is okay because it could have been took off anyway if you was to replace everything in that area
+Spikes Hostage TV Thanks for watching! 1aauto.com
Great vid
The end that goes in the transmission with the black ring is the ring supposed to be split or solid ring
It's supposed to be split so it can compress when it goes in and then expand again into the groove in the transmission to hold the driveshaft in place.
For the life of me I don't know why he didn't just remove the brake caliper. It would have made the work so much easier with it out of the way and only takes about ten minutes to remove it.
Certified bonk technician.
Under the part list for the 2012 ford focus on Rock Auto, it has 2 different CV axles listed for the driver side. One has 27 teeth and the other has 34 teeth. How do you know which one will work for the specific application? Obviously tooth count has some effect on things or it wouldn't list the count.
BTW, thank you for this video. Very helpful.
+Joseph Lopez The differences could be for automatic vs manual transmissions. You would need to check all the listing details for your specific model prior to ordering.
@@1AAuto Yes, it turned out the differences between the CV axles was in fact the auto or manual. The confusion was made when I searched for the axle and rock auto did not have the part in question listed as auto or manual. I contacted them and got it figured out.
Forgot to ask during my last message.
What amount of torque is needed to remove or tighten the nut on the hub?
Bonk
Why not just drop the bottom ball joint opposed to removing the strut leg from the hub? That has always given me enough room.
+birchyla We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
exelent thankyou friend
+franco jose flores Thanks for the feedback!
Anyone know why after replacing my axel my spindle is wiggling back and forth now?
What about a 2014 ford fiesta?
+Christ ForLife We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How many spline for the inner and outer as well as the total length of the axle?
Torque spec on the pinch bolt is 2 ugga duggas.
Bonk bonk bonk bonk bonk bonk ! Lol
Holy rust bucket!!!
Just remove the tie rod swing it over why remove the strut assembly
37 ft lbs torque spec on those sway bar links
Great video but dude, two bolts and the caliper is off and you can hang it to the side out of the way.
Having watched the video to the end, I see you removed the caliper and maybe replaced it with a new one. You also fitted new pads and rotor.
You didn't chisel the hub nut into the spline on the shaft to prevent it from coming loose and falling off. Very dangerous.
Tight !
Torque specs are wrong. I believe the axle nut should be torques to 233 ft.lbs. and the lug nuts to 95 ft.lbs.
According to my Chilton's repair manual, you are correct. The axle nut is 233 lbs/ft. The lug nuts can be torqued to either 95 or 100 lbs.ft.
You change the shoke absorber. Why do you don't tell us why and show why it is not good anymore. Maybe we can have the same problem.
+alexander turan Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
You don't even have to remove the sway bar link when you remove the bottom of the strut.
I couldn't disconnect the axle driveshaft any advice guys ?
The car is Hyundai tucson
On this verhicle
Vericle raise the vericale
How we can refill the transmission fluid..?
You forgot to refill in this video
I changed my axel and now car willnot go into reverse
That brake line isn't in it's holder.....ehhh
I always grease the splines on the end that is going into the trans
Camera man never heard of exposure lock?
All that just remove the balljoint from the hub.. 🙈
Looks like that car needs the transmission fluid changed.
+MaryandDale Davidson Thanks for the feedback!
#Bonk
Of course you can always just drain the transmission oil first so it doesn’t piss all over the floor. Will end up adding new oil either way
Definitely more room on an O1 than an 07
I have a cordless Milwaukee impact wrench and that baby will rip anything off. You guys need to get some cordless tools over there at 1A. You're still use on the old-fashioned stuff. I don't have to have a hose dangling. You can get this Milwaukee in really tight spots. Surely you make enough money off of all those parts you sell. Those things are outrageously priced. I usually use eBay or RockAuto and get my stuff for 1/4 the price.
Anyone else notice he said "Vearicle" instead of "Vehicle"
Do not go to personally
Rasicm of languages. It is a facett of human live that makes people uniqe. I love his speaking.
Love from Germany
Omg drove me batty...
This dude definitely does not know how to pronounce vehicle 😂😂😂
He's like verical... 😂
No cares given to those brake lines
bout to push this car off of a cliff. put on new axle and transmission just grinds..
"Drivers Side"...not everywhere. Why just not say left?