Awesome tips!! Pivot Balls: I always use taps to prepare the arms. There are spacial taps that are in stages. I use the first one that cuts the least material. go slow so the piece does not heat and melt. I found that the screws can come loose from hard plastic parts (high carbon content stuff) if I fully tap them. I use the staged taps and go 3/4 th the distance in. and let the screw do its job. Rod ends: When pre tapping with screw, try cutting a line throught the threads. This converts the screw to a tap and ejects plastic better. I also never tap all the way with screws or use the staged taps. Using oil is a great way to reduce heat buildup and binding. I also see a lot of people forgetting their power tools on full lock (full torque) wich can destroy the parts or hurt you if the part gets free from you. always test the torque settings. start low gradually increase until the desired depth. With grease and without grease makes a huge difference in torque settings. Most people do not realize the ammount of attention and effort goes into building the cars and this is only the suspension :) Great video and thank you for sharing your tricks with us.
@@Toughbeard thanks for the extra info! I fully agree on actually using taps but not everyone has them. By using the steel pivot balls this is the easiest solution.
@@jillesgroskamp8752 Just watch your fingers. The ballends get extremely hot :) Thats why I got my self the taps I got tired of burning my fingers. I notice a lot of people leave the screws in the piece after screwing it in with an electric screw driver. This is not a good idea. The Steel piece gets very hot once you put it in the especially hard plastic parts. Because the ball end does not have grooves it will actually cut and compress the material. THere is quite a lot of stress on the material itself. While cooling the plastic will want to shrink a little and hold the screw very tightly and it will most of the time cause you to strip the hex. Always pull the screw out just like you did. and allow the piece to contract and cool. Then put the part back in. it will still be tight but much better. One good way is to cut a groove in a screw whcih creates a channel for material removal... Most people do not realize that taking your time and slowly, carefully building your car makes it faster... Thank you so much for your videos. It is extra work you are putting into explaining things.
Awesome tips!!
Pivot Balls: I always use taps to prepare the arms. There are spacial taps that are in stages. I use the first one that cuts the least material. go slow so the piece does not heat and melt. I found that the screws can come loose from hard plastic parts (high carbon content stuff) if I fully tap them. I use the staged taps and go 3/4 th the distance in. and let the screw do its job.
Rod ends: When pre tapping with screw, try cutting a line throught the threads. This converts the screw to a tap and ejects plastic better. I also never tap all the way with screws or use the staged taps.
Using oil is a great way to reduce heat buildup and binding. I also see a lot of people forgetting their power tools on full lock (full torque) wich can destroy the parts or hurt you if the part gets free from you. always test the torque settings. start low gradually increase until the desired depth. With grease and without grease makes a huge difference in torque settings.
Most people do not realize the ammount of attention and effort goes into building the cars and this is only the suspension :)
Great video and thank you for sharing your tricks with us.
@@Toughbeard thanks for the extra info! I fully agree on actually using taps but not everyone has them. By using the steel pivot balls this is the easiest solution.
@@jillesgroskamp8752 Just watch your fingers. The ballends get extremely hot :) Thats why I got my self the taps I got tired of burning my fingers.
I notice a lot of people leave the screws in the piece after screwing it in with an electric screw driver. This is not a good idea. The Steel piece gets very hot once you put it in the especially hard plastic parts. Because the ball end does not have grooves it will actually cut and compress the material. THere is quite a lot of stress on the material itself. While cooling the plastic will want to shrink a little and hold the screw very tightly and it will most of the time cause you to strip the hex.
Always pull the screw out just like you did. and allow the piece to contract and cool. Then put the part back in. it will still be tight but much better.
One good way is to cut a groove in a screw whcih creates a channel for material removal...
Most people do not realize that taking your time and slowly, carefully building your car makes it faster...
Thank you so much for your videos. It is extra work you are putting into explaining things.