Baie dankie. Good to see a video from the region and what works and doesn't. Been looking for something like this to help get rid of my medow and grow some lawn
I like your backyard ,the entire setup , I’ve always had that idea that a Wendy house looks better in between some trees etc and not stand alone in a corner
Hi Travis. Goed om jou weer terug in aksie te sien. Ek sien die geel hout boom is uit (gelyk soos n geel hout boom). Ek het my lawn reno so 2 weke terug gedoen. Darm nie naastenby so groot erf area soos julle nie so dit was darm vinnig gewees. Hier kom n lekker en warm somer. Lekker naweek.
Hi BB. Would you perhaps know where in Durban I can get such topsoil for filling up dongas and dips. I have red soil in my yard. Thanks for the video - very informative.
Just did this today. No kikuyu guru sadly. Did the old rake/broom method and it was killer. Luckily my grass area is only 120m² and not crazy big. I am absolutely destroyed.
The top dressing should never be greater than 25mm. The grass stands a chance of dying or will be very slow to recover. Top soil several times to achieve the required final grade. To grade low areas, the best top soil mix is 70% soil/sand and 30% compost. No nitrogen fertilizers required, apply super phosphates only at one or two handful/s per m2 (60/120 grams). Soil/compost mixes with more than 30% compost will only temporarily fill low spots, because the compost breaks down after 4 days or so. Nitrogen fertizers can be applied after 3 weeks.
Who you talking to 🤷😂 Grass has already grown through fully. 7days. You never need phosphorous for turf grasses unless you’re sowing seed. Possibly planting sod, and when you have a phos deficiency. Yes, I do agree that lighter layers done more often is best traditionally but I wanted to get this done.
Where did I say you need phos in this video? I think you have me confused with someone else or misunderstood something. It’s something I don’t recommend per the usual. Nitrogen drives turf care. Of course Phos is needed but doesn’t need to be heavily dosed because of how long it hangs around. It’s only required in heavier doses under specific circumstances with turf grasses. I last used superphos in this yard only to get rid of the last bit that was given to me. This is also why I often recommend chicken manure for if you need to or want to use a manure or organic compliment. Don’t just add phos, especially synthetic options, unless you have a specific need for it.
@@BackyardBushveld I made mention of phosphorous, because phosperous is responsible for stimulating root growth. Only well developed rooting system are able to take up the maximum potential soil nutrients. For most, including new property owners, there is however, no garantee that their lawn areas were ever treated with phosphates or even downgraded during any previous construction activities. Additionally, the inexpensive phosphate range, were they ever applied, tend to leach under prolonged rains, and with sandy soils in particular. Performing lawns are not a product of topsoiling or any other one remediation, alone. And as top soiling largely serves to adress the finished grades, because visually and practically, they are highly desirable, it does not offer any garantee of plant performance. Healthy lawns are rather a product of 'a combination' of several actions, which can be attended to during the top soiling exercise. Hence, I made mention of a typical 70/30, soil/compost mix that treats both the grading aspect but also deals with the lawns nutritional requirements. The most direct result of topsoiling is that the growing medium will be raised, and by the same amount of the topsoil applied. If there are any doubts about your properties soil conditions, topsoiling provides the perfect opportunity to introduce phosphorous, but also because the lawns surface rooting will immediately begin to populate the new soil horizon, where it can benfit from its oxygen rich regime and nutritional reserves. The most comprehensive route to topsoiling of lawns however, remains an initial decompaction of all existing lawn areas to enhance the soil oxygen content and loosen the rooting zone. Post to scalping, all lawn areas should be aggravated (or at least once a year in any standard maintenance program), whereafter phosphorous can be installed and the top soil mix applied to grade. Compaction is not caused by pedestrian activity, rain or irrigation alone, but also by the use of nitrogen fertilizers. In fact, on sports fields, nitrogen is responsible for the worst compaction of all, because it renders a soil PH unihabitable for soil effective microorganism. By eliminating them, their natural decompacting action is lost. The application of nitrogen fertilizers therefore, should be totally avoided and nitrogen alternatives sought out. Adding to this, the soils nutritional status is inversely proportional to the use of nitrogens and the cost of maintenance viza vi the poorer the soils, the more nitrogens are required for performance and the higher the cost. For eg. most people remove their nitogen rich grass cuttings from after the cut, requiring that nitrogens for any given area needs to replaced, in some kind of pointless cycle. With regards your comment that turf grasses, 'unless you're sowing seed' or 'possibly planting sod', never need phosperous, this is a totally false and unscientific statement. By today, almost all land areas, unless virgin, are virtually 100% impacted, by either construction or agricultural activities of one form or the other. Hence the requirement for EIA certificates. This aside, the only sure way to determine any soil status is by soil analysis, the exercise of which is invaluable to any rehabilitative intervention.
I got tired just watching this Travis. I have to do this in the next month. 158 sq meters for me so not too bad but this old man is not looking forward to doing it lol
I’m not sure if your comment is an attempt at an insult, or have I missed your point? If people are planting anything other than something that grows in soil and sequesters carbon, and then also stores it, they are the ones who need to adjust their thinking. Just google ‘does grass sequester carbon’.
Well done man, love your yard. Also, a bit jealous of your eloquence.
Thanks man!
Baie dankie. Good to see a video from the region and what works and doesn't. Been looking for something like this to help get rid of my medow and grow some lawn
Thanks Wimpie! This vid is almost a year old now, and this weekend I’ll make the new version 😂
I like your backyard ,the entire setup , I’ve always had that idea that a Wendy house looks better in between some trees etc and not stand alone in a corner
Thanks bud! One step at a time. I plan on removing those Wendy’s sometime though. Not really making use of them these days.
@@BackyardBushveld hmmmmm please keep me in mind , if they’re in good condition , especially the little house 🏡
Hi Travis. Goed om jou weer terug in aksie te sien. Ek sien die geel hout boom is uit (gelyk soos n geel hout boom). Ek het my lawn reno so 2 weke terug gedoen. Darm nie naastenby so groot erf area soos julle nie so dit was darm vinnig gewees. Hier kom n lekker en warm somer. Lekker naweek.
Hey Nicky, ja die geelhout is uit. Gras is al klaar toe gegrooi! Volgende video gaan LM top dressing wees en dan weer hierdie opvolging
Hi BB.
Would you perhaps know where in Durban I can get such topsoil for filling up dongas and dips. I have red soil in my yard.
Thanks for the video - very informative.
Thanks bud! Unfortunately I don’t know the suppliers in DBN. You could try calling Duzi Turf and check who they might recommend though
Nice one
Scalped my lawn today, to top dessing, about mid summer here
Great. What region are you in?
baie werk sal like om lm te sien
Great stuff Trav
Thanks Rudi!
Can i get the company if possible that you bought the lawn dressing ?
Newlands garden sands Pretoria East
Just did this today. No kikuyu guru sadly. Did the old rake/broom method and it was killer. Luckily my grass area is only 120m² and not crazy big. I am absolutely destroyed.
Lekker man! I did the lm today, and also about 120m2. Still a workout😂 maybe I’m just unfit🙈😂
Good day. Where did you purchase your 5cube top soil?
Newlands sand in PTA east
The top dressing should never be greater than 25mm. The grass stands a chance of dying or will be very slow to recover. Top soil several times to achieve the required final grade.
To grade low areas, the best top soil mix is 70% soil/sand and 30% compost. No nitrogen fertilizers required, apply super phosphates only at one or two handful/s per m2 (60/120 grams).
Soil/compost mixes with more than 30% compost will only temporarily fill low spots, because the compost breaks down after 4 days or so.
Nitrogen fertizers can be applied after 3 weeks.
Who you talking to 🤷😂 Grass has already grown through fully. 7days. You never need phosphorous for turf grasses unless you’re sowing seed. Possibly planting sod, and when you have a phos deficiency. Yes, I do agree that lighter layers done more often is best traditionally but I wanted to get this done.
@@BackyardBushveld
So do you need phosphorous or don't you, make up you mind.
Where did I say you need phos in this video? I think you have me confused with someone else or misunderstood something. It’s something I don’t recommend per the usual. Nitrogen drives turf care. Of course Phos is needed but doesn’t need to be heavily dosed because of how long it hangs around. It’s only required in heavier doses under specific circumstances with turf grasses. I last used superphos in this yard only to get rid of the last bit that was given to me. This is also why I often recommend chicken manure for if you need to or want to use a manure or organic compliment. Don’t just add phos, especially synthetic options, unless you have a specific need for it.
@@BackyardBushveld I made mention of phosphorous, because phosperous is responsible for stimulating root growth. Only well developed rooting system are able to take up the maximum potential soil nutrients. For most, including new property owners, there is however, no garantee that their lawn areas were ever treated with phosphates or even downgraded during any previous construction activities.
Additionally, the inexpensive phosphate range, were they ever applied, tend to leach under prolonged rains, and with sandy soils in particular.
Performing lawns are not a product of topsoiling or any other one remediation, alone. And as top soiling largely serves to adress the finished grades, because visually and practically, they are highly desirable, it does not offer any garantee of plant performance. Healthy lawns are rather a product of 'a combination' of several actions, which can be attended to during the top soiling exercise. Hence, I made mention of a typical 70/30, soil/compost mix that treats both the grading aspect but also deals with the lawns nutritional requirements.
The most direct result of topsoiling is that the growing medium will be raised, and by the same amount of the topsoil applied. If there are any doubts about your properties soil conditions, topsoiling provides the perfect opportunity to introduce phosphorous, but also because the lawns surface rooting will immediately begin to populate the new soil horizon, where it can benfit from its oxygen rich regime and nutritional reserves.
The most comprehensive route to topsoiling of lawns however, remains an initial decompaction of all existing lawn areas to enhance the soil oxygen content and loosen the rooting zone. Post to scalping, all lawn areas should be aggravated (or at least once a year in any standard maintenance program), whereafter phosphorous can be installed and the top soil mix applied to grade.
Compaction is not caused by pedestrian activity, rain or irrigation alone, but also by the use of nitrogen fertilizers. In fact, on sports fields, nitrogen is responsible for the worst compaction of all, because it renders a soil PH unihabitable for soil effective microorganism. By eliminating them, their natural decompacting action is lost. The application of nitrogen fertilizers therefore, should be totally avoided and nitrogen alternatives sought out.
Adding to this, the soils nutritional status is inversely proportional to the use of nitrogens and the cost of maintenance viza vi the poorer the soils, the more nitrogens are required for performance and the higher the cost. For eg. most people remove their nitogen rich grass cuttings from after the cut, requiring that nitrogens for any given area needs to replaced, in some kind of pointless cycle.
With regards your comment that turf grasses, 'unless you're sowing seed' or 'possibly planting sod', never need phosperous, this is a totally false and unscientific statement. By today, almost all land areas, unless virgin, are virtually 100% impacted, by either construction or agricultural activities of one form or the other. Hence the requirement for EIA certificates. This aside, the only sure way to determine any soil status is by soil analysis, the exercise of which is invaluable to any rehabilitative intervention.
@florreal4891 goodness, I’m not even going to read this thesis. Thanks for watching
Lekke boytjie!
🤜
I got tired just watching this Travis. I have to do this in the next month. 158 sq meters for me so not too bad but this old man is not looking forward to doing it lol
😂It was a laborious day indeed! I walked 27km to get this done🙈😂 looking forward to seeing your session next month!
met topdress
Miskien later vandag opneem!
It’s going to take another 20 years for South Africans “to get it” that lawns are generally obsolete?😂
I’m not sure if your comment is an attempt at an insult, or have I missed your point? If people are planting anything other than something that grows in soil and sequesters carbon, and then also stores it, they are the ones who need to adjust their thinking. Just google ‘does grass sequester carbon’.