I own all three of these so I will give my biased opinion, the Skwarma's are nice and very comfortable (they stretch well) but they lost almost all of it's down turn after a while but the heel is fantastic on those, but the build durability isn't good, when toe hooking you'll the rubber on the toe box will start to peel off. The Theories are good and quite durable but don't downsize on them too much, they do not stretch at all but they retain the downturn pretty nice but once the rubber on the toe starts to wear away you'll lose a lot of that edge. The solution comps are in my opinion the best indoor climbing shoe that La Sportiva makes, retain the downturn pretty nice, good build quality, amazing toe and precision and SUPER comfortable, they stretch a lot, I downsized 3 sizes and after breaking them in I could wear them all day as slippers honestly, but the sole is thin and XsGrip2 so they won't last very long
Glad the the Solution comps came out best I am just about to get mine in service, just a few weeks left of service to the old solutions (they last me three years as only wear on tech climbs). however so jealous it looks sunny and warm there..... winter is coming here in the UK ....
I own and climb 3 different models of La sportivas "womens" line though ;) according to la sportiva the fit should be the same for mens and womens versions, the latter being a bit softer
@@seeeeeb9300 I don't climb in la sportiva shoes but the women's versions have two features besides the softer flex that I need: narrower width and much lower heel cup volumes. Otherwise, I can't edge or heel hook very well.
As someone who owns 4 pairs of Theory's, there isn't a shoe that comes close to its performance, whether in the gym, or on real rock they beat the Miura for me on rock, I bought a pair of Solution Comps and exchanged them after 1 climb because they were absolutely horrendous. I exchanged the Solution Comp for Skwama and the Skwama are basically the Theory 1.0 and I love them. Worth noting I have wide feet and this could be why the Solution Comps felt terrible to me but if you are in the market for a high performance shoe, then I would recommend the Theory or Skwama 11/10 times.
That's very interesting! I also have wide feet and was thinking 'bout getting a pair of Theory's. Can I ask you what's your height/weight. 'Cause I'm pretty tall and want to know does Theory offer just enough support for gym edging problems🙃 Thanks in advance!
@@sora_mugen I'm 6ft1 and I weigh 87kg, they work well on everything. I will also just preface that by saying I am a very footwork oriented climber so if you trust your footwork then these shoes will blow your mind.
The Skwama is slightly stiffer but its not worlds apart from the Theory, I would say overall that the Theory is the better shoe, it just performs better in all applications, heel hook, toe hook, tiny edges and smearing. I disliked the Solution Comp because the toe was longer and less stable on tiny holds, and it really hurt my big toe when I stood on a tiny chip so I immediately disliked it
It would be beneficial to put down few bullet points so you can compare the shoes to each other in some way. The video feels like you had a day off with 3 shoes and had to make some content for youtube.. "Interesting experience" and I can't talk about fit too much is not really professional. I am just putting it out there because not many people has the tools you guys have and climbing community is hungry for information. If you put more effort, they will definitely appreciate.
I am interested in both and couldn´t decide which way to go. I got the Solution comp because they fit me well, and i couldn´t try the Skwama at that time. Is it worth having both, isn´t there to much "overlap" of their abilities? Can you share your experience?
I would not wear the theory on limestone. Its just painful and shreds the rubber quick. Actually I would not recommend them unless you are superlight, need an ultra sensitive shoe for hard overhangs. Same for solution comp imo. I like the idea of the format, but really those shoes are more or less pretty similar: soft, sensitive, downturned, highly aggressive shoes. Great for indoors and overhangs cuz of the heel&toepatch. Not really a shoe for vertical limestone imo.
This was the lousiest review I've ever seen in my life. Just b-roll footage and a cute girl telling me some made up on the spot first impression on the show. To call this a 'REVIEW' is like calling a kitten a lion.
Holy crap, not 10 days ago, the Johanna Farber story was all over the news, and now this, at only 4 seconds in. Have we learned nothing, Climbing Daily? Or was it intentional? Did Teresa have a say about which footage was included? Am I overreacting? (I mean, I don't think so...)
Heya yes i do have a say and i know the people who i work with and the focus has always been on the shoes. I wore what was appropriate for that day considering it was pretty warm and never was i made to feel unconfortable. I hope that clarifies your concerns :) - Teresa
It is unfortunate when that person holding the camera can't get the best shot but I don't know how you can expect the perfect shot every second. That seems to possibly be a bit much to expect.
@@drewetpa Didn't mean to ruin your day Phil, it's just generally considered a bit rude to make comments like this that seem to objectify others with regards to their appearance. But if that was not your intent, then I apologize!
@@thesii213 That's your reading of the comment laden with your frame of reference. Perhaps the wish is the father of the thought? Maybe you should reserve your judgements for less ambigous cases.
Not sure where you’re at here. Watch the first 5 seconds of this episode then flick back less than a week to the Johanna Farber discussion, featuring the same Epic presenter. Epic’s production team needs a bit of a “not objectifying women” 101. Pretty irritating.
@@FloodCsgo For me, it’s not about politics. It’s about walking the walk. They raised an issue over a certain type of objectification of women, then did the same thing themselves. That’s hypocrisy. If you think this is political, ask some female friends how safe they feel when out and about especially in urban settings, because actually, it’s all part of the same problem, being that women are all too often seen as, in some sense, objects for use or enjoyment of men. That’s a basic safety and well-being issue for 51% of the population and I don’t think there’s anything particularly political about that. Certain types of people try to paint this as political to denigrate the argument, but that’s bull. If you think this type of media content has no real world effect on how people see themselves, others, women, then there are entire industries and records of outcomes that beg to differ. Add to that the fact that men control the majority of stuff in the world, and you have a pretty unfavourable set of circumstances for the safety of women. The desire for women to be treated equally, not be objectified and to be safe everywhere is wholly upstream of any political viewpoint, not downstream of it.
@@TimH123 I completely agree with the wider point you're making but even Teresa herself commented on the video saying she didn't feel objectified by the video at all. Having a girls ass in a shot doesn't automatically mean they're being objectified. I reckon you're just hyper aware about the fact because clearly it's a passionate subject for you (which is a good thing). Ultimately though, making this argument every single time even a bit of leg or ass is shown is an overall negative. It's tiring to see the arguments plastered everywhere when there are so many better ways to work towards your goal than commenting on the camera angle of a climbing shoe review video. My 2 cents.
@@TimH123 I was literally so confused about what you were talking about at first, it didn’t even stand out to me in the first watching of the video. That just seems like a typical shot from the belayers perspective. I guess I “objectify” my climbing partner cause that’s usually what I see while belaying her. lol Just seems like a perspective angle that’s pretty common in climbing, didn’t seem overly intentional to me. Overall the video was far more focused on letting her present the information than any objectification.
This video is sponsored by scarpa.
XD
The review starts at 4:40
the shoes at 1:45 are the skwamas in red - strong resemblence with the theory
back-clipped at 0:14 ?
well spotted I had to go back and look !!
And later too, at 6:39
6:02 it isnt clipped correctly
I own all three of these so I will give my biased opinion, the Skwarma's are nice and very comfortable (they stretch well) but they lost almost all of it's down turn after a while but the heel is fantastic on those, but the build durability isn't good, when toe hooking you'll the rubber on the toe box will start to peel off. The Theories are good and quite durable but don't downsize on them too much, they do not stretch at all but they retain the downturn pretty nice but once the rubber on the toe starts to wear away you'll lose a lot of that edge. The solution comps are in my opinion the best indoor climbing shoe that La Sportiva makes, retain the downturn pretty nice, good build quality, amazing toe and precision and SUPER comfortable, they stretch a lot, I downsized 3 sizes and after breaking them in I could wear them all day as slippers honestly, but the sole is thin and XsGrip2 so they won't last very long
Thank you for sharing!
Super helpful, currently trying to choose between the Theory and the Solution Comp so this came in very handy, thanks!
Ther's a backclip at 6:00
Glad the the Solution comps came out best I am just about to get mine in service, just a few weeks left of service to the old solutions (they last me three years as only wear on tech climbs). however so jealous it looks sunny and warm there..... winter is coming here in the UK ....
Yes! Get Teresa reviewing more gear. No offense to Matt but dudes have very different feet and bodies than most women.
Matt does a way better job at reviewing, but it’s cool they are doing women reviews.
I own and climb 3 different models of La sportivas "womens" line though ;)
according to la sportiva the fit should be the same for mens and womens versions, the latter being a bit softer
@@seeeeeb9300 I don't climb in la sportiva shoes but the women's versions have two features besides the softer flex that I need: narrower width and much lower heel cup volumes. Otherwise, I can't edge or heel hook very well.
Hearing you say you wore one size down on the comps made me worried.... I just ordered mine 3 sizes down 😂
do they fit?
As someone who owns 4 pairs of Theory's, there isn't a shoe that comes close to its performance, whether in the gym, or on real rock they beat the Miura for me on rock, I bought a pair of Solution Comps and exchanged them after 1 climb because they were absolutely horrendous. I exchanged the Solution Comp for Skwama and the Skwama are basically the Theory 1.0 and I love them.
Worth noting I have wide feet and this could be why the Solution Comps felt terrible to me but if you are in the market for a high performance shoe, then I would recommend the Theory or Skwama 11/10 times.
That's very interesting! I also have wide feet and was thinking 'bout getting a pair of Theory's. Can I ask you what's your height/weight. 'Cause I'm pretty tall and want to know does Theory offer just enough support for gym edging problems🙃
Thanks in advance!
@@sora_mugen I'm 6ft1 and I weigh 87kg, they work well on everything. I will also just preface that by saying I am a very footwork oriented climber so if you trust your footwork then these shoes will blow your mind.
@@MarkSmith-hq4rr thank you for the answer, it is extremely helpful! 🙂
Isn’t the Skwama much stiffer than the Theory?
And which obe did you prefer, Skwama or Theory?
And why didn’t you like the Solution Comp?
The Skwama is slightly stiffer but its not worlds apart from the Theory, I would say overall that the Theory is the better shoe, it just performs better in all applications, heel hook, toe hook, tiny edges and smearing. I disliked the Solution Comp because the toe was longer and less stable on tiny holds, and it really hurt my big toe when I stood on a tiny chip so I immediately disliked it
It would be beneficial to put down few bullet points so you can compare the shoes to each other in some way.
The video feels like you had a day off with 3 shoes and had to make some content for youtube..
"Interesting experience" and I can't talk about fit too much is not really professional.
I am just putting it out there because not many people has the tools you guys have and climbing community is hungry for information. If you put more effort, they will definitely appreciate.
Where did you film this?
Thank you for reviewing the shoes, I have them both Solution comp and Skwama and love them so much!
I am interested in both and couldn´t decide which way to go. I got the Solution comp because they fit me well, and i couldn´t try the Skwama at that time.
Is it worth having both, isn´t there to much "overlap" of their abilities? Can you share your experience?
finally!, as a longclimber of skwama, i really want to see of it compares to the theory now
Can you guys do a review of the Tepet Firefly? Seems like a good piece of gear but there are no unbiased testimonials online yet
"I guess that they are good for indoor"... "I didn't use any heelhook..." WTF what a trash review. This is not epic anymore.
6:02 back clipped
actually, no review found, no details at all
2:37 the name of the route cracked me up
I would not wear the theory on limestone. Its just painful and shreds the rubber quick. Actually I would not recommend them unless you are superlight, need an ultra sensitive shoe for hard overhangs. Same for solution comp imo. I like the idea of the format, but really those shoes are more or less pretty similar: soft, sensitive, downturned, highly aggressive shoes. Great for indoors and overhangs cuz of the heel&toepatch. Not really a shoe for vertical limestone imo.
This was the lousiest review I've ever seen in my life. Just b-roll footage and a cute girl telling me some made up on the spot first impression on the show. To call this a 'REVIEW' is like calling a kitten a lion.
Very useful to try and review high end performance shoes on a 6b+
what grades does Teresa climb at?
V1 in my gym
Holy crap, not 10 days ago, the Johanna Farber story was all over the news, and now this, at only 4 seconds in. Have we learned nothing, Climbing Daily? Or was it intentional? Did Teresa have a say about which footage was included? Am I overreacting? (I mean, I don't think so...)
agreed 110%
I thought the exact same!
Heya yes i do have a say and i know the people who i work with and the focus has always been on the shoes. I wore what was appropriate for that day considering it was pretty warm and never was i made to feel unconfortable. I hope that clarifies your concerns :) - Teresa
@@dailyclimbing thanks for chiming in! You have illuminated the discussion!
It is unfortunate when that person holding the camera can't get the best shot but I don't know how you can expect the perfect shot every second. That seems to possibly be a bit much to expect.
Can't stand the theory personally, been through 2 pairs now and they both wore out within about 2.5 months
What grades do you climb and where did they wear out?
Not a review
Route "agif al Aviv"... 🤣🤣
I think I'm in love :)
Great video and feedback.
P.S. She is dreamy.
I could watch her climb all day.
Phil these comments are kinda gross my dude
@@thesii213 Elaborate on why it's "gross". If you make a strong enough case then I'm sure when you report the comment it will be taken down.
@@drewetpa Didn't mean to ruin your day Phil, it's just generally considered a bit rude to make comments like this that seem to objectify others with regards to their appearance. But if that was not your intent, then I apologize!
@@thesii213 That's your reading of the comment laden with your frame of reference.
Perhaps the wish is the father of the thought?
Maybe you should reserve your judgements for less ambigous cases.
@@drewetpa So that was not your intent?
Not sure where you’re at here. Watch the first 5 seconds of this episode then flick back less than a week to the Johanna Farber discussion, featuring the same Epic presenter. Epic’s production team needs a bit of a “not objectifying women” 101. Pretty irritating.
They're just filming the shoes ffs get off your high horse and stop turning everything into a political issue
@@FloodCsgo For me, it’s not about politics. It’s about walking the walk. They raised an issue over a certain type of objectification of women, then did the same thing themselves. That’s hypocrisy. If you think this is political, ask some female friends how safe they feel when out and about especially in urban settings, because actually, it’s all part of the same problem, being that women are all too often seen as, in some sense, objects for use or enjoyment of men. That’s a basic safety and well-being issue for 51% of the population and I don’t think there’s anything particularly political about that. Certain types of people try to paint this as political to denigrate the argument, but that’s bull. If you think this type of media content has no real world effect on how people see themselves, others, women, then there are entire industries and records of outcomes that beg to differ. Add to that the fact that men control the majority of stuff in the world, and you have a pretty unfavourable set of circumstances for the safety of women.
The desire for women to be treated equally, not be objectified and to be safe everywhere is wholly upstream of any political viewpoint, not downstream of it.
@@TimH123 I completely agree with the wider point you're making but even Teresa herself commented on the video saying she didn't feel objectified by the video at all.
Having a girls ass in a shot doesn't automatically mean they're being objectified. I reckon you're just hyper aware about the fact because clearly it's a passionate subject for you (which is a good thing).
Ultimately though, making this argument every single time even a bit of leg or ass is shown is an overall negative. It's tiring to see the arguments plastered everywhere when there are so many better ways to work towards your goal than commenting on the camera angle of a climbing shoe review video. My 2 cents.
@@FloodCsgo Thanks for the reasonable reply, I’ll certainly take that into account in future.
@@TimH123 I was literally so confused about what you were talking about at first, it didn’t even stand out to me in the first watching of the video. That just seems like a typical shot from the belayers perspective. I guess I “objectify” my climbing partner cause that’s usually what I see while belaying her. lol Just seems like a perspective angle that’s pretty common in climbing, didn’t seem overly intentional to me. Overall the video was far more focused on letting her present the information than any objectification.