How to Make River Charcuterie Boards
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video we will take you through the process we used to make six river charcuterie boards. We will show you things we did well as well as mistakes that were made that impacted efficiency... the boards themselves turned out great. Watch this video if you are planning on making your own river board or multiple boards in the near future.
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Some of the products used in making this table:
This is the epoxy I use to seal the edges of the boards before pouring the river as well as to fill holes and voids (Stone Coat Countertops). amzn.to/37dCqsG
Super Cast Epoxy (designed to be poured over 3/4" and up to 2" in a single pour) used on the river. amzn.to/3pgtGJN
Metallic powder additive used with the super cast epoxy. amzn.to/3oec7sy
When using a 1:1 ratio epoxy, measuring your amounts is extremely important. Here is the brand of mixing cup I trust and has never let me down amzn.to/3iGUHU0
I use Diablo 5" random orbital sanding discs (I use different grits, working my way up to 220 - there is no need to go beyond 220 grit when using epoxy) amzn.to/2MizlAv
With the exception of a little hand sanding, I use this Dewalt Random Orbital Sander amzn.to/3iJVxzx
These are the metal sanding disks I use on my 4 1/2 grinder with the grinder conversion attachment. I use 50 grit. amzn.to/3jTTB89
To remove router lines, excess epoxy, and/or hardened epoxy drips, I use this conversion grinder attachment on my 4 1/2 grinder and attach low grit metal sanding disks. amzn.to/3pueJ5Y
Use this self igniting propane torch to pop air bubbles. amzn.to/34yBXzV
This is the tape I use in the mold for the river table. It helps ensure an easy release once your epoxy has cured. amzn.to/3uxt6Jm
This is a thickset casting epoxy that was used to make the river part of three of the boards (Total Boat Epoxy). amzn.to/3lrqWtI
This is the CA glue I used to fill holes and small voids that when combined with the accelerator is ready to sand in seconds. amzn.to/3j836AM
This is the accelerator that you spray on the CA glue to make the product hard within seconds. The CA glue and accelerator must be used in combination. amzn.to/37k7yGN
This is the finish I used a buffing wheel to apply to three of the river boards. This finish holds up better than oil and wax, but is a little more difficult to apply (Rubio Monocoat). amzn.to/3xj86rh
This is the butcher block conditioner that is a mixture of oil and wax I used on the other three river boards. amzn.to/3ykkFUm
*Thanks for the river Charcuterie board exciting work*
Thank you and thanks for watching!
They turned out so beautifully!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Hell yea . Im going to do my first surface epoxy pour here in the next couple days ...im excited . Thanks for the knowledge my dude
I’m glad you found it helpful!
These are gorgeous! I want to try tinting epoxy and doing a "river run" type charcuterie board, but I'm respectfully terrified!
They are fun to make…give it a try on a small one…you will learn a lot!
Fantastic work, new sub here...keep 'em coming !
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Beautiful!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Beautiful, can you just sand the wood level? Like if you don't have any fancy machines?
You could sand the wood with some low grit paper, but it would just take a lot more time.
great video, which finish did stay shinier or shine more? your thoughts will be greatly appreciated
I think the Rubio mono coat’s shine lasts longer, but the butcher block oil is easy to keep applying. Thanks for watching!
After you poured your epoxy and let it cure, how long did you let the epoxy cure before you sent it through the planer?
It would probably be best to send it through after it has just cured into its solid state. Most epoxies get harder as time goes on and reach their max strength after a few weeks or even a month. To be honest, I try not to send fully cured epoxy through my planer anymore because it is really hard on the blades. I bought a larger sander to accomplish the same task. Thanks for watching!
Isn’t using Rubio not a good idea to use on something that food will be on?
According to Rubio Monocoat’s website: “We are proud to confirm that our wood finish is food safe and compliant for charcuterie boards, butcher block countertops, tabletops, and other surfaces where food is involved.” So, as far as I’m concerned, it’s safe for use on surfaces that food will be on. Thanks for watching!
Sealing the edges before pouring has been shown to weaken the bond with the resin as the deep pour doesnt have any chance to penetrate the live edge making the bond weaker vs just pouring the main epoxy, Maybe not a huge concern but over many years it may be.
This would only be true if sealed with something other than epoxy…like poly or shellac. I seal the edges with epoxy and then sand with 220 to create a mechanical bond with the casting epoxy. You have epoxy bonded to epoxy…the wood will break before that bond does. To argue otherwise is to say layers of epoxy will delaminate from each other, which if sanded between the layers, will not happen. The most likely thing to happen by pouring without sealing the edges is to have bubbles in the epoxy. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Have you done real world testing to confirm that hypothesis? (Stress testing to breaking point, etc)? Or is this just anecdotal opinion?
I have not done any testing myself besides seeing how my own projects have held up over the years so far. I have researched the topic before and I came to the conclusion seal coating is very necessary and does not compromise the bond, as long as you use epoxy for the seal and next layer. Check out this Blacktail Studios video. th-cam.com/video/W3KQx0sZ-kU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NAniIeOVieQC9UEG He has made way more tables than me and he explains the process very well in this video and then destroys the table. The wood broke first. He does his coats one after the other, before they fully set up, but mentions how you can let it cure if you don’t have the time and then simply scuff it and pour the next layer. If you haven’t before, I suggest you pour some epoxy, let it cure, sand it and pour another layer. Then, after examining it, see if you think it would ever come apart.
@@northernridgedesigns no thanks. Epoxy is too expensive to experiment with. It’s never a stronger bond to bond epoxy to epoxy to wood vs epoxy to wood. I just disagree and I realize that may not mean much. In the grand scheme of things both ways may be sufficient but I have not seen any evidence that would convince me to do it your way. Just out of curiosity, what do you think would happen if you cut the completed piece right down the middle and then used epoxy to join it back together?
I agree, epoxy is very expensive. If you cut it right down the middle, sanded the cut and either filled it with casting epoxy or used epoxy to bond it back together, it would look weird, but in my opinion, based on my experience it would be just as strong as the rest of the epoxy once cured. Epoxy looks terrible when you scuff it with 220, but then the scratches totally disappear with the next pour because it fills those scratches and creates a mechanical bond. If you just poured epoxy on cured epoxy, I agree it would be a weak point, but once sanded it’s a whole other type of bond.
Curious what they sold for … thanks
I sell them for $125.
Do you take personalize orders? Pls let me know
Hello…I do…but it does depend somewhat on what sort of wood I have available. Thanks for watching!
👍🏻👍🏻👏👏😁
Thank you and thanks for watching!