CNC Dividing Head Conversion DIY! (Part 1) - Mounting Bracket
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- G'day everyone,
Today I will be converting the $200 dividing head to be driven by a CNC stepper motor. A limitation with the standard dividing plates is that not every gear can be cut. I need to cut a 57 tooth gear for an upcoming project and this dividing head can not cut a 57 tooth gear.
I could cut a 57 hole dividing plate, but I have been wanting to convert this to CNC for a long time, and this has given me a great excuse to do so. I have made a few CNC machines in the past, and it is always a lot of fun to do.
In this first video I will be making a mount that will allow me to attach the stepper motor to the drive shaft. I hope you enjoy the video.
#machining #DIYCNC #CNC
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
1:51 - Making The Main Body
6:00 - Making The Stepper Motor Bracket
9:40 - Making The Mounting Ring
11:04 - Modifying The Eccentric Sleeve
11:27 - Press Fitting The Parts
12:08 - Making The Coupling Adapter
14:00 - Final Assembly
Gear Cutting Video: • Making Gears From Scratch
Dividing Head: • $200 Dividing Head - A...
Dividing Head Teardown: • $200 Dividing Head | T...
CNC rotary table
CNC Dividing Head - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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CNC Set Up (Part 2) : th-cam.com/video/6eCNC_m4_HM/w-d-xo.html
Cutting Gears With The Dividing Head (Part 3) : th-cam.com/video/6VI8Li83hl8/w-d-xo.html
Здравствуйте, мотор Nemo 23 установил
This channel is slowly becoming one of my favorites! Would love to see a collaboration with ToT!
That would be amazing! 😍
That, and a migration from Mach to an Open Source CNC control system.
@@smoesmoesmoe I used linux CNC for over a year. It works fine but I personally don't love it. Each to their own. Cheers
~9:11 Seems like a perfect time to use a vice-stop, all four holes could have been drilled with one XY move.
Good project either way :)
nice vid, to avoid the frosting on the part, put it in a sealed bag before freezing it, it's especially useful for steel
Won't work very good in Australia, the humidity is so high the moment you pull a -15degree C metal out of the bag it will just frost up in the air in seconds.
I prefer to heat the other part, you get a much better temperature differential and no condensation problems. Freezing will only lower the temp of the part maybe 40 degree C compared to the ambient part, but you can put it in any household oven and easy heat the outer part to 220 degrees C, that's a 200 degree differential.
You can get even tighter and more secure shrink fits. 🙂
@@wizrom3046 lol your spit on about the humidity im in Melbourne and dealing with these storms hahaha
Great video, thanks.
I have just made an almost identical conversion for my Vertex dividing head. I managed to make the mounting bracket quite a bit shorter so the stepper doesn't stick out as much. This was achieved by making the shaft coupling more compact and taking 10mm off the stepper output shaft as well.
Awesome build! Thanks for sharing this. Really looking forward to seeing it work.
Good work, looking forward to this one. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
What a brilliant concept, i will be getting tuned in when I'm home this afternoon, looks like it's going to be interesting video ( I recently purchased the same dividing head & would love a CNC addition) :)
Keep up the great work mate really appreciate your in depth detailed explanations & thought process.
Very interesting video. Waiting for part 2
In case you see comments for older videos like this, in order to minimize burrs like that 5xxx-series aluminum caused when milling, try Joe Pi's tip of always running the end mill along the outside edge of the material so that it will push into the material. In the case of your 6-mm plate, you would have had to make two passes, each pushing in from each side, but not completely crossing over the part with the cutter, if that makes sense. I just discovered your channel and have subscribed. ;)
Very nice. Looking forward to seeing this in operation.
Thankyou, video would be out soon
Man I would LOVE to see you build your own motorized hacksaw, that would be a cool addition to your shop tools
I agree, would be an interesting build, and useful too!
Cmon man next vid, loving this build!
Cheers, part 2 should be out soon
Nice Work, looking forward to see how it works
Great project, I'm interested to see how you control the motor in the next part. Thanks
excellent job!!!!
Great job Mate! Looks good.
I did this also, works amazing on my mill.
Great job
You can minimize burrs milling the edge of the aluminum plate by arranging for the endmill to always be cutting inwards. Watch Joe Pie’s videos. He always does that.
I'd recommend turning the sleeve so that hole is down, will keep from getting chips, etc inside the sleeve.
Nice Job. I appreciate the honest comments; like, "because I forgot." My favorite part was the hand made HSS cutter to get through the aluminum that didn't cut well. I have struggled with the smallest boring bars as well, regardless of the inserts. I have a couple small solid carbide bars with ends that can be changed out for different jobs such as boring, threading, back-boring, or contouring. They are pricey though. Thanks for sharing your project!
Cheers. To be fair that was some nasty aluminium alloy. I still have a few pieces left and to this day I can't get that stuff to machine nicely .
Nice work again.
在这个视频我学到了很多的技巧，非常感谢！！
perfect video
The recess is called centering shoulder.
Love your vids. Thanks for sharing.
I thought it called a register.
Nice work 👏
Nice video, thank you :)
Awesome project! If anything reqlly benefits from a stepper motor and numerical controller it's a rotary table. It's such a pain cranking that handle making gears with lots of teeth!
One suggestion, that spiral type of coupler you used have a very bad rep for work hardening and breaking. They also have a lot of spring which causes other problems. Much better to use a 2 piece coupler, or even just a solid coupler would work fine for a simple app like this if you make it a snug fit so it's concentric.
neat mod there artisan!
Awesome build quality!!! Definitely got a subscriber out of me! If ever that press fit becomes a problem with the weight of the motor. A tack weld on each side would easily take care of it without distorting the faces.
Interesting project! I'm really curious for what you need a 57 teeth gear :) And respect for your hacksawing patience :) !
this video is very nice,
And you know what? That’s actually another pretty decent video 👍
Thankyou
Love the videos, but in the name of all that's holy, get a band saw lol
That looks great. It's a pity the coupling didn't have the diameter to go straight on to the div head without the adapter, (like maybe just boring out a little). Looking forward to the next installment to see that gear cut.
I'd recommend putting a plug into the access grub screw hole on the adaptor body. Protection from swarf ingress there is not negotiable 😁
As fun as it is to use a manual hack saw, I think it’s about time you made a power hack saw!
Hi , Been watching your videos and have been impressed with your presentation and your expertise.
Did not know that you live in OZ.
seen elsewhere on the web were you get your metal from Edcon at Milperra I live in Liverpool.
Cheers
Allen
Great project!!
You definitely need to invest into a metal bandsaw.
I’m about to buy that same indexing head.
essentially it's the A axis now
Pro tip: this type of elastic coupling is not very good for position accuracy. You can hold one end and twist the other and you will see it by yourself
True that they aren't great, bit I've only ever run into this being a problem when moving in 2 directions. I've always been able to get away with these when only going one way. Cheers
@@artisanmakes that's good news, cant wait for first chips ;)
cool video, just out of curiosity, what tolerances did you use for achieving that nice press fit?
Hi, as you can see this is not a pressfit, It was done by thermal expansion (retraction in this case).
Designing the fit is a pretty standard engineering work, but it is not intuitive.
I think in this case no engineering was used, He probably used common sense and experience. It is fair if you know that it will work =D
The tolerances should be in the same measurement order than termal expansion, also the interference.
The value of interference will depend on maximum loads, limited by 'cold weld' condition. Once you have the value of interference you should pick a tolerance to assure this condition.
At the end, you need to see if you could shrink the material enough to have a loose fit by thermal contraction (or expansion, or both) with no cristaline changes in final temperature.
For the small boring bar - try making a high speed steel insert. Hss can be kept sharper for aluminum.
Aluminium specific carbide inserts for those small boring bars are quite inexpensive and also do a pretty good job on mild steel on these small lathes.
@@ferrumignis works for my pal but not me, my lathe is a tad slower so i just went for hss and thought I'll upgrade it at a future date, that was a decade ago and now I can grind hss freehand so that upgrade will probably not happen 😔
I wouldn't trust that press fit. It just seems like to much of a weak point. Great Vid.
Someone start a crowdfund for a power hacksaw
What will the resolution of your divider be? How much angular deviation is considered acceptable?
With my little experience when I drilled aluminium workpiece. I found liquid cooling lubricant is significant.
I can agree, especially with bigger holes. I've found cutting oil to work better than coolant. Cheers
Your forearms must be as big as your legs with all that hacksaw work. Need a portaband or some form of saw for cutting your stock. Even if its an evolution 380 cold cut saw. Save you alot of time and you wont regret buying one either.
Really gotta get you a jig for making hss cutters, also need to get you a chamfering tool. Other then that great work!
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
That 5005 aluminium looks pretty gummy. Would it help to cool it down? Like what Applied Science did when he milled that rubber part.
👍👍😎👍👍
That's some fair nice lathe work for what seems like a fairly cheap lathe. Look forward to watching more of your videos. Are you worried about the dividing head moving without some kind of brake on it?
There is a spindle lock around the back which helps keep it in place which machining. Cheers
@@artisanmakes cool. Which state are you in? I can't quite pick the accent. SA or WA?
When machining Aluminum use WD 40 or Kero for a lube it stops the material from becoming claggy which inafect it is melting at the point of contact to the cutting tool.
I normally use kerosene. It wasn't doing much for this alloy. I actually found that silicon spray lube had the greatest effect. Cheers
Every traditional dividing head should be adapted to CNC. I've never fully grasped how that system with the pins and arms works, even though I've seen many TH-camrs using them. It just seems overly tedious and prone to mistakes.
It absolutely is
But it's also ~$500 for the entire thing and 3-4 hole plates
The high-precision CNC vises in the machine i'm next to rn are around ~$4500 each, just for "simple" vises
And rotaries are around 20k for this size iirc
I've looked for those circular lathe tools, which you used to get a better finish, but the ones I've been able to find, and the inserts, always seem to be marketed for use on wood and not metals.
Are they just the same ones, and aluminium is forgiving enough, or are they specifically sold for machining metal?
The ones I use are technically made for metal milling, rather than lathe work, but the work. These are RDMT, or R shape inserts, but they work fine.
Thanks for sharing, I'd love to do this but the software stuff would stump me :)
Cheers, wiring can be a headache. Part 2 should shed some light on it.
Can you 3D print special dividing head plates?
I have the same divider and had the same idea last year but then i found that either the gear has some play here and there or if you take that out with the excentric sleeve then it will seize at some points.
Did you not have any problem like that? Normally if you use it by hand you crank it to the next position and then put it on the brake. Now if you don't use that brake i am afraid it is going to give trouble whilst milling.So i sort of abandoned the idea but it looks really tempting to have a look at it again! Maybe i am not lucky and my gear has a wobble of a few thou or so.
What do you think?
I have run into similar issues with mine, I have reduced this by swapping the grease for oil on the worm gear. And it certainly grabbed a lot more when it was new. When I had the dividing head apart I also deburred the gear too which helped. I also have a bit more backlash than I normally would have but since we are going in one direction, and I use the spindle lock so that's not an issue.
@@artisanmakes i'll have a look at it again soon. I found that it must be possible to fit a needle bearing in the excentric sleeve, maybe it wont seize that hard when you fit that but i am in doubt now. Using the brake is certainly solving the issue but then you can not mill whilst rotating. For your use you could maybe fit an air cilinder on the brake and control that with some M-code!
@ thanks sir,one question in my mind is when we indexing that spindle is it nessesery to
tighten the worm wheel on every indexing??Or no need to tight ,,i think worm and worm shaft is fited with no play in both then not nessesery to tighten that locking nut... please answer i am waiting sir please please.
As long as you take out the backlash pit probably doesn’t matter it if is right or not. Probably helps to have it tight though
@@artisanmakes thanks for your reply sir,i will send you my machine video that is conversion in servo deviding head,in that gear cutting sometime coming indexing error so I am confused what is wrong in my setup..
That spring shaped motor coupler is particularly a bad one. It flexes angularly. I got rid of it and used a steel bellow style.
It's not the greatest but it doesn't cause any backlash problems if you index in one direction. Cheers
How good is that 3 jaw chuck for runout?
I think it’s 0.03-0.04mm. It’s one of the Better 3 jaw chucks that I have
I also want to CNC convert the similar dividing head. First of all i removed backlash using lapping compound. But i still have to adjust the worm very tight against the gear to fully eliminate the backlash so its torque is hight. I doubt such small stepper motor can turn it well. How is your experience with that?
For me backlash wasn't a problem since I was only rotating the diving head in one direction and locking the spindle as I went. For that reason I could get away with a relatively small NEMA 23 stepper
If you nead better surface woth turning you have to make headstock and whole carrige stiffer. I can see how much it deflects when entering the cut :)
I think there is only so much to come out of this poor lathe, boring especially it struggles with.
@@artisanmakes nah.... You can get much, much more. Take a look at my playlist of mini lathe show off. I moded mine to be able to cut 1/2 inch per side in steel ;)
If you nead any tips let me know
@@artisanmakes th-cam.com/video/BJMiyPlICPA/w-d-xo.html
Hay
57 tooth gear, doing threading in the lathe I see.. :D
Yep you guessed it. Got some imperial threads to cut and I didnt want to shell out for a tap i'd use once. Cheers
Will you fix the “Typo” in The Title?
So I'm at 4:30 and I just had a picture pop in my head for the long skinny boring heads.. Can't you drill a hole through it, take some steel wire and threat it through, cross it and tether it to the tool mount and apply pressure to minimize vibrations and warping? I don't know if that makes sense. I'm not a machinist or engineer either. Just a thought I wanted to ask/ share.
That would seems like a difficult set up, no?
Won’t that pressfit work itself loose after a while ?
Nope - that's the whole idea of it. It's one of the strongest and most reliable ways to connect two pieces of metal!
Bro. I need your help. Ive stripped my lathe down for a clean. I've put it back together but I cannot understand these Gibb strips. I'm either shaking like a tiny dog or stiff as a tree. I can't find a middle ground, I guess it doesn't help that I have no clue what I'm doing.
Anyway. Could you please do a video for dummies on how to set the carage and Gibbs please.
Love the channel btw.
th-cam.com/video/a6SrWRmGHak/w-d-xo.html This is an older video of mine that goes over it. On small lathes these can be difficult to get right. Just add small amounts of pressure at a time. Also if its seizing, check it could be the adjustment nut for the cross slide leadscrew. If that's not properly adjusted it can seize the leadscrew.
@@artisanmakes I've done it I think. Thank you. This helped.
I think I used the wrong lube before. I've used silicon lube now.
It get it just right I used an allenkey that was one size to small. It tightened then spun in the hole when it made a bite to the gib holes.
Ive sat for 20mins making the last bite with the nuts.
It's working well.
@@artisanmakes seriously thanks bro. Btw just while I'm being open and honest. I used copper grease last time. I thing this was a major player in the issue. It's like glue.
Although in my defense of stupidity. It was high speed grease for bearings. Lmao.
Here's something else dumb I did.
You know these shafts that run pistons in a car. There's a central axis for the bearings and there's offset shafts that lift and drop the pistons.
I'm sorry I don't know what it's called.
I thought of a way to make a shaft for 3 pistons. Using a three jaw chuck.
I don't have a 4.
Anyway it worked perfectly apart from now my bearings hate me because I didn't know I had to balance the material. Lmao
Does the tube have to be so long?.
That is pretty much as short as it can be once you add in the shaft, coupler and adapter
@@artisanmakes ok, thanks, very cool videos always enjoy them.
Next project should be a power saw
Well done, but, Why such a heavy system? You could achieve the objective with a single and light part.
You forgot to disassembly the pillowblock from dividing head inputshaft. That pillowblock is the only part to be redesigned.
In your solution, you added another shaft in cascate, for no practical reason.
Regards!
Are you referring to the sleeve? That's not a pillow block
I wonder, how ripped your arms are after all that sawing
How strange, I love 5005 , but i hate cast iron!
you should build yourself or buy a small band saw so you don't use that hacksaw for cutting.
You could also do something like this if you can programme an arduino .
th-cam.com/video/beT8312k3yI/w-d-xo.html
I have Mach 3 running on the pc that runs my engraver , i was thinking of selling it but now i might just use it for something like this !
The diveding head vertex is made in taiwan
I am aware that the Vertex one is, but I'm sure that this vevor one is Chinese made
They look the same,! Peace man
They definitely do
boring it out such smal should be verry easy. get a bigger lathe and turn as fast as 1500-2000rpm
Что то вымерял вымерял микрометром, а всё равно при центровании болванку било хрен знает как, на кой все эти понты при съёмке?
It can’t do prime numbers, as they are irrational, I.e. not a ratio of any two other numbers………….I think?????!
Stavros
I suspected that initially, but it can do some prime numbers, such as 41. Plus 57 isn't irrational. Cheers
In a few years when the arthritis kicks in your elbows are going to attack you while you're sleeping. Get a bandsaw.
Totally agree. In a pinch though, the flat stock can be cut with a jig saw.
Dịch tiếng việt
Rofl
I hate your videos. After watching them I always want to spends hundreds of dollars on parts and tools for my machines and I don't even know how to use them! 😂
stop cutting stock by hand!
Why?
@@MyTubeSVp we live in 21 century and people work hard for thousands of years to develop and improve tools into power tools so we can now use it as much as we can to make our life easier and faster.
@@gary851 Hey, if the guy likes to do a good workout once in a while, who are we to deny him that bit of joy ?