Thanks a lot. Very educative video! I drive TT Roadsters (MK1/2) for 15 years now, and I have some idea on technical side, but these kinda video's truly help to understand.
honestly very interesting to watch. i also thought about buying a TT mk1 as a project car, or maybe a A4 8D. Both because of the 1.8T Engine. Its also very calming to watch this, very nice Camera work and cut.
Thank you for the kind words! I have such a soft spot for the 1.8t (and Mk1 TTs). They're underrated engines imo and have proven to be capable of being absolute weapons!
It was a great video. Thank you. My car is a 1997 A4. I use an old K26 turbine. Depending on the power band you use, you may need 8500 or, like me, 6000 is enough (lol)
Great video, I almost got a TT but ultimately got a miata instead. Im still a VW/Audi nerd as I own a MKV and eventually would love to build a 1.8T. One recommendation for your videos would be to get a little bit better lighting as the video is a bit dark, otherwise great job. Keep it up!
Hi! Great video. Love how detailed, yet concise it is. I'll be following this build :) A question though: Have you looked into the stock lifters' ability to support the amount of revs you're planning to make? I'm working on planning my own build (different engine though) and I can't find any reputable sources on the manner. I have read that there's no one-size-fits-all answer to this, as the weight of the valves, retainers, springs, etc. seems to affect this. Just wondering if you've made any inquiry on how far you'll be able to push them. Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words! 🙏🏼 As far as the hydraulic lifters, yes! All else equal and built well with quality parts, the hydraulic lifters themselves have been run to 9k with some solid and repeatable reliability. It's not until people hunt for 10k that they transition over to solid lifters which opens a whole other can of worms!
Yiiiikes! I wonder what happened. Maybe a defective spring? I've seen some setups run 9500rpm (which is wild and I would never) on factory hydraulic lifters, and documentation on setup running up to 10k+ on solid lifters on some serious purpose built setups... That really sucks though and I'll definitely keep it in mind.
Thank you! I have not given an air-to-water intercooler a thought. It doesnt really work well for my application and adds various points of failure for a system that isnt all that efficient for extended use under load.
gtx28 - ForceFed Engineering g35 - Grayfab As far as which I prefer? Not really sure that I prefer one over the other. Theyre both similar in design and are marketed as "equal length tubular". That aside, the only notable difference is the collector. The Grayfab utilizes a billet machined collector (near perfect geometry) where the ForceFed Engineering unit is traditionally constructed with hand cut and welded tubes. Performance wise, well, I probably cant say. The two setups are substantially different from one another, so theres no real or fair comparison there. If I were to make a choice though, I really appreciate the machined collector on the Grayfab unit.
Why need 8500 rpm? My car 490hp and 670NM . At 3200 already 630NM and stays above 600 till 6k rpm . The horsepower max out at 6500rpm but from 3000rpm already have 300hp and just growing. This all numbers with g25-550 which is a limit in my factor i think ,but for me is totally enough and i knows the engine stay reliable.My engine a stroker build anyway 2.0l
Your statement is exactly the reason that 8500rpm will be useful for me. Because of the smaller g25 on your setup, the turbo starts to fall off sooner, long before your redline, but you benefit from all that low end response instead. For me, having the larger g35 will be the opposite. My low end will not be as strong, however my mid to high power band will be, and therefore bringing the rev range higher up to 8500rpm means I can lengthen the powerband on my setup and make use of it without falling off. Because of my goals in Time Attack, I will spend more of my time in the mid to high rev range than I will in the low end. So it is not a loss for me for my needs. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
I should also make note that my g35 MIGHT be too big for my current displacement. I still have a mostly stock bore at 1.85l (overbored to clean the cylinder walls, not for power gains). I do intend to go to a 2.0 or 2.1 in the future, however it's not in the budget, especially since mine is still very healthy. I originally planned for a g30 as well, but the g35 fell on my lap, so we're going to see what it can do!
@TheNeverEndingProject we gonna see I think 😊. Anyway do you have any idea how to check valve to piston clearance with head off? I mean I know with clay,but what about the hydraulic valve lifters ? They can be bleeded out and the hydraulic tensioner also not working properly without oil pressure.
8500 rpm makes significantly more horsepower. If you make only 300lbft of torque at 8500 rpm you’ll make 485 wheel horsepower. Imagine 500lbft of torque? That’s 809 wheel horsepower.
With 1.8t you don’t have a lot of displacement so the best way knowing this is to add rpm . So you could stroke it or add rpm which means more power if top instead on down low a lot of ppl just spray them down low
@@USMC1970 ahh I see. I'll go ahead and assume that it is stock. Mine is anything but! If you're curious and you haven't already, I'd encourage you to check out my video titled "the next chapter.../what's the point". Goes over what I had already done to the car before getting to this point! 🤙🏼
Amazing camera work! Extremely pleasant to watch, practically ASMR for my eyes!
Hahaha thank you! I really appreciate that!
Same , good to see you getting blessed with Algorytm gods
Thanks a lot. Very educative video! I drive TT Roadsters (MK1/2) for 15 years now, and I have some idea on technical side, but these kinda video's truly help to understand.
3:05 highly recommend a phenolic spacer that adapts large port to small port.
Not sure if you're joking or not? 😅 You can see it right there in the video lol
@TheNeverEndingProject in the first part it didn't look like it. Later it did.
grinding only necessary on intake side if you have adjustable cam sprocket on cam
Great video man!
Learnt all the things, much more technical and definitely enjoyed it a lot.
Video quality just keeps going up!
🥰🥰🥰
Damn brother, your quality game has massively stepped up over this series. Project is looking good. *edit* I just make meme videos at this point
Thanks brother, that means a lot! Doing my best to keep leveling up!
honestly very interesting to watch. i also thought about buying a TT mk1 as a project car, or maybe a A4 8D. Both because of the 1.8T Engine.
Its also very calming to watch this, very nice Camera work and cut.
Thank you for the kind words! I have such a soft spot for the 1.8t (and Mk1 TTs). They're underrated engines imo and have proven to be capable of being absolute weapons!
It was a great video. Thank you. My car is a 1997 A4. I use an old K26 turbine. Depending on the power band you use, you may need 8500 or, like me, 6000 is enough (lol)
Great video, I almost got a TT but ultimately got a miata instead. Im still a VW/Audi nerd as I own a MKV and eventually would love to build a 1.8T. One recommendation for your videos would be to get a little bit better lighting as the video is a bit dark, otherwise great job. Keep it up!
Hi! Great video. Love how detailed, yet concise it is. I'll be following this build :)
A question though: Have you looked into the stock lifters' ability to support the amount of revs you're planning to make? I'm working on planning my own build (different engine though) and I can't find any reputable sources on the manner. I have read that there's no one-size-fits-all answer to this, as the weight of the valves, retainers, springs, etc. seems to affect this. Just wondering if you've made any inquiry on how far you'll be able to push them. Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words! 🙏🏼
As far as the hydraulic lifters, yes! All else equal and built well with quality parts, the hydraulic lifters themselves have been run to 9k with some solid and repeatable reliability. It's not until people hunt for 10k that they transition over to solid lifters which opens a whole other can of worms!
loving the build
also can you share the specs on the cam if possible
Thank you! And of course - are you interested in profile specs of the intake and exhaust lobe profiles?
@@TheNeverEndingProject yes as im also building a similar spec engine just curious what degree they are
@@kobusburger3800 for sure! Here the are for the intake and exhaust respectively:
Duration @0.1mm: 268° | 262°
Duration @1.0mm: 226° | 216°
Valve/Cam lift: 9.25mm | 9.95mm
Centerline: 110° | -108°
Timing @1.0mm: 4°/43° | 37°/0°
Valve lift @ TDC: 1.35mm | 0.95mm
what down pipe is that?
Careful with those supertechs at 8500, reason my shop cars apart rn. Floated a valve :(
Yiiiikes! I wonder what happened. Maybe a defective spring? I've seen some setups run 9500rpm (which is wild and I would never) on factory hydraulic lifters, and documentation on setup running up to 10k+ on solid lifters on some serious purpose built setups... That really sucks though and I'll definitely keep it in mind.
I'd love to hear what you find out though when you go through it if you haven't already!
Do you use hydroliclifter?
The OEM Hydraulic lifters, yes
Bro this is amazing! Do you think you could do a Water-cooled Intercooler?
Thank you! I have not given an air-to-water intercooler a thought.
It doesnt really work well for my application and adds various points of failure for a system that isnt all that efficient for extended use under load.
GM, homie 🫡
what exhaust headers are both of those? and which do you prefer?
gtx28 - ForceFed Engineering
g35 - Grayfab
As far as which I prefer? Not really sure that I prefer one over the other. Theyre both similar in design and are marketed as "equal length tubular". That aside, the only notable difference is the collector. The Grayfab utilizes a billet machined collector (near perfect geometry) where the ForceFed Engineering unit is traditionally constructed with hand cut and welded tubes.
Performance wise, well, I probably cant say. The two setups are substantially different from one another, so theres no real or fair comparison there.
If I were to make a choice though, I really appreciate the machined collector on the Grayfab unit.
@@TheNeverEndingProject would you sell the old manifold? :)
can you tell me where i can get the catcams?
Absolutely! I got my CatCam spec from Badger5 in the UK. They're the "BadgerSpec" cams for them
Why need 8500 rpm? My car 490hp and 670NM . At 3200 already 630NM and stays above 600 till 6k rpm . The horsepower max out at 6500rpm but from 3000rpm already have 300hp and just growing. This all numbers with g25-550 which is a limit in my factor i think ,but for me is totally enough and i knows the engine stay reliable.My engine a stroker build anyway 2.0l
Your statement is exactly the reason that 8500rpm will be useful for me. Because of the smaller g25 on your setup, the turbo starts to fall off sooner, long before your redline, but you benefit from all that low end response instead.
For me, having the larger g35 will be the opposite. My low end will not be as strong, however my mid to high power band will be, and therefore bringing the rev range higher up to 8500rpm means I can lengthen the powerband on my setup and make use of it without falling off.
Because of my goals in Time Attack, I will spend more of my time in the mid to high rev range than I will in the low end. So it is not a loss for me for my needs. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
I should also make note that my g35 MIGHT be too big for my current displacement. I still have a mostly stock bore at 1.85l (overbored to clean the cylinder walls, not for power gains).
I do intend to go to a 2.0 or 2.1 in the future, however it's not in the budget, especially since mine is still very healthy. I originally planned for a g30 as well, but the g35 fell on my lap, so we're going to see what it can do!
@TheNeverEndingProject we gonna see I think 😊. Anyway do you have any idea how to check valve to piston clearance with head off? I mean I know with clay,but what about the hydraulic valve lifters ? They can be bleeded out and the hydraulic tensioner also not working properly without oil pressure.
8500 rpm makes significantly more horsepower. If you make only 300lbft of torque at 8500 rpm you’ll make 485 wheel horsepower. Imagine 500lbft of torque? That’s 809 wheel horsepower.
With 1.8t you don’t have a lot of displacement so the best way knowing this is to add rpm . So you could stroke it or add rpm which means more power if top instead on down low a lot of ppl just spray them down low
More light please.
More illumination in you r vids. Its hard to see
This one came out darker than the rest, but definitely being mindful to balance the lighting. Thanks for the feedback!
Says its a bummer that the part is broken but it would be much more of a bummer if you did t find it and it failed
Removing a cylinder head is like removing a heatsink 😂
hahahaha pretty much!
Traductor español please
Hola mi amigo! Tendré que buscar una manera de traducirlo o agregarle subtitulos en español. Saludos y gracias por el interés!
Im wondering why the turbo seems so high on the motor? Mine is stuffed farther down.?
Are we using the same hardware?
@@TheNeverEndingProject not sure, this is my first TT!
@@USMC1970 ahh I see. I'll go ahead and assume that it is stock. Mine is anything but! If you're curious and you haven't already, I'd encourage you to check out my video titled "the next chapter.../what's the point". Goes over what I had already done to the car before getting to this point! 🤙🏼
@@TheNeverEndingProject Thanks! I just started a new channel: Dougs garage. Not much on it but 1st video will be the TT head!
@@USMC1970 I'll have to check it out! :)