Thanks for the video, figured out that our R56 transmission issue was low on fluid. Did 7 spill and fills but the transmission was still "flaring" higher revs to get going. Added a Rislone Transmission Stop Slip 500ml bottle along with another 500ml of JWS3309 fluid on the last spill and fill. Pumped it all in, started the car, shifted through the gears while on front ramps only. and put the plug in without letting any drain out. Car now will start and shift better than ever, and even start normally on an incline. I'm impressed with the Rislone additive for fixing our issue. Hope to get many more miles out of this car. Acquired it at 117k, lifetime fluid never changed and was baked/burnt. Torque converter happy, transmission happy, family happy. Cheers
Well I got to tell you that is probably the best video on how to go about trying to change the tranny fluid in this mini cooper. This thing has turned out to be a nightmare and I've taken more stuff off that didn't need to be taken off but thanks to this video it's easy to do so thanks again.
This helped a lot servicing my R60. I ended up using a transmission fill adapter from MAC as I stripped out my fill plug. If you strip out your fill plug I can say I had great results filling from the drain pan plug. The thread for the adapter is a M10 X 1.0.
I just did the fluid change without opening any difficult to access fill bolt. I pumped the fresh fluid through the stock plastic snorkel and adapting a rubber hose to it. Other car manufacturers will allow you to thread in an adapter that comes with the manual ATF pump filler kits to make it a lot easier. I just held the 7/64ths adapted rubber hose against the snorkel while pumping and filling with the other hand and I only lost a few drips due to this work around but I didn't have to remove the thermostat hoses to get to the top fill bolt on my R55 (2008 Mini Cooper Clubman 1.6) and the job was super quick doing it my way. I didn't attempt to remove the pan. Remember the vehicle has to be running to get even close to the proper level. The fluid level rises in the pan when it is off and lowers when it is running as the fluid is pulled into the torque converter and other parts of the transmission. Button it up when the fluid starts to trickle out of the snorkel while it's running. That means the snorkel has reached air and you're at the proper fluid level if the vehicle is level and you're good to go.
I have to give you kudos on such a well done video. On my 2009 Mini Clubman there is also a fill plug on top next to the thermostat housing. You can gravity fill from there. Just be sure to install shut off valve on the fill tube.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Here is another thought from 65 Ford's channel regarding pumping the tranny fluid. Drill a hole the diameter of the feed line in the cap of the tranny fluild container then drill another small hole in the diameter of your air compessor nozzle. Set your air compressor at 5 psi and blow air in the air compressor nozzle hole. The air will force the tranny fluild through the fill tube into the transmission. I used this method to change differential fluid and it worked flawlessly.
I just did this job on a 2012 R56 N16 base hatchback 127,000 miles. Dropping the subframe enough to access the one stubborn bolt really is not that hard. Just takes some creativity. Find the main subframe bolts, undo them, undo the sway bar end links from the sway bar, undo the bolts from both ends of the front crash bar pieces (one end connected to subframe, other to front bumper crap) and you’re golden. Subframe will move around enough to access the bolt!
I have that transmission yellow sign with exclamation mark inside on the dashboard couple of times now, my car has 129k miles on it now. I believe the fluid is low or bad , Though i had to fix some misfire issues from valve cover gasket O ring oil leaking to the spark plug, looking forward to changing the transmission soon.
Excellent video! I had to replace my R50's cvt axles which caused a lot of fluid loss. Added a bit of oil through the correction port but now the mini wont even start for me to go through the leveling process, but rather it shows the EML had turned on. What would your diagnosis process walkthrough?
The first thing I would do, is to run an OBD scanner on it to see what codes come up. I would also check to see if you accidentally pulled loose a connection or two.
I have a 2012 mini Cooper S automatic at what mileage should I change my fluid at I’m at 75,000. I’m not sure if it has been been done yet. I don’t think so.
This works but be careful that the hole is right over the screw head. Once the hole is made I’d strongly suggest the edges of the hole should be filed/ground smooth and the bare metal painted to prevent rust/corrosion.
Hey man. Great video. Helped out a lot. I’m in the middle of Changing out my trans fluid right now. But a couple comments and a few questions. Looks like it’s been serviced before. Fluid didn’t look too horrible. But I am getting a trans temp rising alert after about 50 miles of driving. So just assumed it had never been changed. So when I pulled the drain plug I went to pull out the leveler and nothing was there. Pulled the pan and it’s not there. How important is it to have. I know it’s to leave it off but if I put the same back in that came out I should be good without it 🤷🏻. ?? Also I found it much easier to get to the fill plug from the top. Just have to remove the engine filter housing and hose to the turbo just have more room. Also the plug was so tight that I couldn’t use the 10mm on the torx. So I cut the torx off at the top of the adapter and put the torx in the shortest 10mm socket I could and it allows the room to put a 3/8 breaker bar on it. Much easier. Was really hard to find where that damn fill plug was at first. Lol. But thanks for the video.
@@jamesvorhis9830 How is the change coming along? To answer your question, having the leveler is critical. As you know, it tells you when the right amount of fluid is reached. Now assuming that your original fluid level was correct, yes, replacing the amount of fluid removed, would be acceptable. We just do not know if the amount in there, was correct.
If you had found that ATF did not drip from the drain bolt hole with the engine running and the ATF temperature at spec, would you be able to add more ATF through the fill bolt hole using your hose pump method with the engine running while watching for ATF spillage from the drain bolt hole? The reason I ask is because I have read anecdotal accounts stating that ATF will gush from the open fill bolt hole if the engine is running.
Great question...I have changed out AT fluid this method on several European vehicles. There isn't one that suggest that you add more fluid from the fill bolt while the engine is running. With that said, I would not recommend it as fluid could be forced out of the fill hole.
hello i am trying to service my r60 base, my only question is what size drill bit did you use in order to access the torque bit (on the r60 base this is actually a 10mm bolt and cannot find any other way to get it out)
Does the hole that’s near the flex pipe and a semi circle have a plug? I didn’t see one on mine but I wasn’t sure if my mechanic removed it and forgot about it.
Thank you for your video. Very informative! Going to work on my daughter's 05 mini cooper base model. Any thoughts on simply adding the new fluid into the pan, prior to putting to back on?
Mark, there is nothing wrong with adding fluid into the pan before you mount it, but let me give you this piece of advice....if you go that route, you better make sure you have stable hands. Otherwise you'll spill the fluid everywhere. Ask me how I know. LOL
@@jitterz0135 it went ok. Better than I expected. Didn't have to remove the motor mounts. The drain plug was seized, so I spilled alot on removal. Removing and putting each bolt back on was challenging. It turned out that the previous owner had overfilled the trans fluid, which caused the same symptoms that a dirty filter does. Remember to fill with the exact amount of fluid. A second set of hands (daughter) helps alot.
What was the mileage on the cooper you did the fluid change on? Mine is at 152k (bought it at 143k) and as far as I know, the trans fluid has never been changed and I’m wondering if I should change mine but I’ve heard that if it’s been that long without a change the clutches can start to slip with fresh fluid. The cooper itself is a 2009 Base/Justa hardtop 6-speed auto. Edited for spelling & punctuation if anyone was wondering.
My Countryman had over 135K miles and you saw how dark the fluid was. IMHO, I would change your fluid out. Many mechanics will tell you to leave it as is but the benefits outweigh the downsides.
Hi Peter... 2011 r60 s mini..Im going to try and drill a 9/16th hole in the sub frame tomorrow so i can remove that torx bolt... im also going to replace the torx bolt with a regular identical transmission bolt... Wish me luck!!!
Have a buddy asking me if i would consider doing his oil and filter change for him was thinking about it lol but remembered doing my trucks was a B and took a good 2/3 hours smh just from taking my time and not rushing…. But good video.. About how long did this job take if you remember??
So as you have the vehicle on and running you’re draining the transmission fluid going through all the gears and then get out of the vehicle check to see if the fluid is completely done training or how long do you keep going through the gears
Great video Peter thanks! One of the few videos out there for doing this procedure. Question please, what is the purpose of monitoring the transmission fluid temperature? Is it so that if you get past the 95-115F window and nothing has come out yet, you know you need to add more fluid? Can we not just let the car run until fluid comes out without knowing the temperature, since that will happen at 95-115F? And if nothing comes out after awhile we would know to add more fluid?
Hello Ryan. Thanks for watching and the question. I'm no technical guru when it comes to transmission fluid requirements, but believe the process I shared, is how many European manufactures use to properly "level" the fluid amount in the transmission. Porsche, VW, Audi, etc all use such techniques. You simply can't put fluid in, run it until fluid comes out and expect it to be properly leveled. At the proper temperature, fluid should flow out and if not, it's under-filled.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Oooh okay thanks I think I get it now. So it sounds like it's possible that the transmission fluid could be low, but at higher temperatures would start to come out, which would trick someone into thinking it's leveled? If I have one of those laser thermometers, would tracking the temperature of the transmission pan be sufficient?
@@ryanprinsen8585 sorry I didn't explain the leveling process well. Using a laser thermometer would work fine. Another method that some DIYers have used which isn't as accurate, is to measure the volume of fluid that is removed, and add "slightly" more when you replace.
Thanks for the explanation! I was able to use a laser thermometer and check when the temperature was about 100° on the pan. I removed the drain plug and a thin steady stream of fluid came out. Am I supposed to let it come out until it stops? I let a little under 10ozs come out and then got nervous and closed it up, and came to ask here 😅
In filling process, should I open the DRAIN plug or the FILL plug to see if it comes out some fluid, and check if I’m okay in fluid level. You said drain plug, but I don’t now If it was a mistake.
Thank you for asking. You need to open the DRAIN plug because excess fluid will come out from there. Take a look at 11:00 and you'll see the spout that holds fluid in.
awesome video, just subscribed. thanks for sharing the knowledge! curious on what exact fluid you used? you also menioned when the fluid starts to spill out of the top off tube, you are at correct level. how much fluid should you let overflow? let it drain till it stops overflowing, or just until it starts to overflow?
Hello Will, thanks for watching and the support! To answer your question, I used Redline MTL fluid. When the fluid starts to flow out of the fill plug, simply replace it as there isn't an exact amount that needs to be flowing out.
The F60 platform will be closer to the maintenance procedures for a BMW. I would suggest taking a look at their procedure as it might give you a better idea.
I have a 2013 R61 with 51k miles. Looking to change the automatic transmission fluid soon, will watch to see if I do myself or have it taken in. Great content!
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I tried shifting the engine, but it doesnt create enough to access the corner 10mm bolt. I got a 10mm wrench in there but not enough to rotate the wrench. You need to unbolt the transmission mount and jack the trans up a little to make space.
Trying to fill my transmission up with fluid, but barely any is going in from the fill plug. I have completely drained the transmission fluid. Any advice or help would be appreciated.
@@bekimveliju3321 silly question, but I assume, you drained the correct fluid. Yes? If you drained the fluid completely, fluid should flow in unless you're obstructing the flow somehow.
If that fluid is that bad it should be changed again right away Mine was starting to slip and I changed it several times and saved it and it had another 100k when I sold it No tranny issues and was told it was shot .
Thank you for asking. In all honesty, I do not remember the exact brand. I just remember that I purchased quality ATF that was specifically matched for the transmission.
Hello there, Sir my Mini cooper fail to change speed ,I shift D and is Ok shift R and is Ok but driving the car do not change speed. What will be the problem in my My Cooper 2008??????
Hello Victor, sorry to hear about your trouble. Unfortunately, I am not a transmission expert so you may need to scan the car for codes, then have a Mini transmission specialist check out your car.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic You show it clearly in your video. Torx (you call it "star bolt") is the screw you need to drill the hole to get to. the other pan bolds are regular hex.
I attempted the drilling technique and didn’t have a good angle to fit a torx bit to the single transmission pan torx bolt. I was able to purchase set of T-handled torx from Harbor freight and was able to get the pan off. If anyone else ever attempts the “drill technique” make sure you drill in the rear part of the hole to get access to the Torx bolt.
Sean, thanks for the input as I know that one bolt is not easy to access. Hopefully future DIYers will see your comment and take note when changing theirs out.
It seems like you could put the star bit into the bolt and turn it with a box wrench. Should be enough space without drilling the hole in the subframe and creating a fatigue failure stress point
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic The bolt is very close to the subframe, there's barely enough room to tuirn it out without any tool attached, if you have any corrosion issues you will never get a tool in. I drilled a hole, it doesn't compromise the subframe in any meaningful way (there are already far bigger holes in it )
Mini or Aisin automatic transmission is not double clutch - it is converter transmission. Oil change + filter every 80.000 - 90.000 km or 50.000 - 55.000 miles ... good enough. For double clutch like Audi or other every 60.000 km or 40.000 miles @@TheAutomotiveFanatic
Are you referring to the fill bolt? When you mean stripped, are you referring to the entire bolt than threads into the transmission...or are you referring to the part which an allen key goes into?
This sounds too good to be true, but I asked my Mini Dealership service advisor how much a drain and fill would cost on my 2010 Mini Clubman. Surprisingly it’s only $99?! I’ll schedule the service and report how it goes!
When I bought my used JCW with 35,000 miles on it from a dealer, I negotiated a transmission fluid drain and fill - they said the service team had never done it before, "lifetime fluid" after all (IMO lifetime fluid means they think the lifetime of the car is 100,000 miles). After talking to the service team they estimated at their shop rate it was about a $1,000 service, but conceded to do it as agreed. If they'll do the the drain and fill for $99, I'd make sure they are doing what you think they're doing but, assuming they are.. I'd totally jump on that.
I am all ears...let us know your technique. BTW, thanks for the input about my method being bad advice. I informed viewers that my method was unorthodox.
Thanks for the video, figured out that our R56 transmission issue was low on fluid. Did 7 spill and fills but the transmission was still "flaring" higher revs to get going. Added a Rislone Transmission Stop Slip 500ml bottle along with another 500ml of JWS3309 fluid on the last spill and fill. Pumped it all in, started the car, shifted through the gears while on front ramps only. and put the plug in without letting any drain out. Car now will start and shift better than ever, and even start normally on an incline. I'm impressed with the Rislone additive for fixing our issue. Hope to get many more miles out of this car. Acquired it at 117k, lifetime fluid never changed and was baked/burnt. Torque converter happy, transmission happy, family happy. Cheers
Thank you for your key feedback and expertise! I think your addition was idea and am glad it worked out well for you.
Well I got to tell you that is probably the best video on how to go about trying to change the tranny fluid in this mini cooper. This thing has turned out to be a nightmare and I've taken more stuff off that didn't need to be taken off but thanks to this video it's easy to do so thanks again.
I am glad you found this video useful. Thank you for watching and the support!
This helped a lot servicing my R60. I ended up using a transmission fill adapter from MAC as I stripped out my fill plug. If you strip out your fill plug I can say I had great results filling from the drain pan plug. The thread for the adapter is a M10 X 1.0.
I'm glad to see that the video was useful for you and thank you for the suggestions on the adapter.
What's a fill ada😊other
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
You stripped the head or the thread ? 😮
I just did the fluid change without opening any difficult to access fill bolt. I pumped the fresh fluid through the stock plastic snorkel and adapting a rubber hose to it. Other car manufacturers will allow you to thread in an adapter that comes with the manual ATF pump filler kits to make it a lot easier. I just held the 7/64ths adapted rubber hose against the snorkel while pumping and filling with the other hand and I only lost a few drips due to this work around but I didn't have to remove the thermostat hoses to get to the top fill bolt on my R55 (2008 Mini Cooper Clubman 1.6) and the job was super quick doing it my way. I didn't attempt to remove the pan. Remember the vehicle has to be running to get even close to the proper level. The fluid level rises in the pan when it is off and lowers when it is running as the fluid is pulled into the torque converter and other parts of the transmission. Button it up when the fluid starts to trickle out of the snorkel while it's running. That means the snorkel has reached air and you're at the proper fluid level if the vehicle is level and you're good to go.
Thanks for the amazing write-up on an alternative method.
Where is the snorkel located?
Yes where is the snorkel location
@@williambrappingland3465 the snorkel is directly above the transmission drain bolt.
You dont have to use that awkward fill plug , we just pump the new fluid with a hand pump through the drain/level check hole. its a lot easier .
Thank you for the suggestion!
Thanks Peter very explanatory.
I have to give you kudos on such a well done video. On my 2009 Mini Clubman there is also a fill plug on top next to the thermostat housing. You can gravity fill from there. Just be sure to install shut off valve on the fill tube.
Thanks for watching and the support Bob. I also appreciate the plug location input.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Here is another thought from 65 Ford's channel regarding pumping the tranny fluid. Drill a hole the diameter of the feed line in the cap of the tranny fluild container then drill another small hole in the diameter of your air compessor nozzle. Set your air compressor at 5 psi and blow air in the air compressor nozzle hole. The air will force the tranny fluild through the fill tube into the transmission. I used this method to change differential fluid and it worked flawlessly.
@@rfcasey Thanks for the suggestion! I have another tranny project to do in the future and will definitely try this trip. Thanks for sharing it.
I just did this job on a 2012 R56 N16 base hatchback 127,000 miles. Dropping the subframe enough to access the one stubborn bolt really is not that hard. Just takes some creativity.
Find the main subframe bolts, undo them, undo the sway bar end links from the sway bar, undo the bolts from both ends of the front crash bar pieces (one end connected to subframe, other to front bumper crap) and you’re golden. Subframe will move around enough to access the bolt!
Bill, thank you so much for adding in your tips. For all those you want to do it THE RIGHT WAY, use Bill's tips.
I got hit on the passenger side not sure if transmission shifted closer to frame or is it normal to be that close...
I have that transmission yellow sign with exclamation mark inside on the dashboard couple of times now, my car has 129k miles on it now. I believe the fluid is low or bad , Though i had to fix some misfire issues from valve cover gasket O ring oil leaking to the spark plug, looking forward to changing the transmission soon.
Have a shop pull the code and see what it is.
How did your transmission change go?
Great video but needed to see it being done as you were doing it....Your a great talker
Thank you for watching. I know...I tend to speak too much.
This definitely helps.
Although I have a 06 r50 base cvt auto trans, and I have a strong leak coming from somewhere. Looks like transmission fluid..
Zachary, did you locate the source of your leak?
I think Peter meant to say using a Laser Thermometer to check the fluid temperature. Not a heat gun.
Thank you....My mouth doesn't always say what my mind is thinking.
Hey buddy, missed ya! Keep up the good work man
Thanks for always supporting me! Hope you're doing well my friend.
Why is there a drain plug on the bottom of the diff? What is this used for? Isn’t the trans and diff in the same housing and thus in the same fluid?
It's been a while since I did this DIY and frankly, forgot the reasoning as to why I drained from 2 areas.
Excellent video! I had to replace my R50's cvt axles which caused a lot of fluid loss. Added a bit of oil through the correction port but now the mini wont even start for me to go through the leveling process, but rather it shows the EML had turned on. What would your diagnosis process walkthrough?
The first thing I would do, is to run an OBD scanner on it to see what codes come up. I would also check to see if you accidentally pulled loose a connection or two.
I have a 2012 mini Cooper S automatic at what mileage should I change my fluid at I’m at 75,000. I’m not sure if it has been been done yet. I don’t think so.
This works but be careful that the hole is right over the screw head. Once the hole is made I’d strongly suggest the edges of the hole should be filed/ground smooth and the bare metal painted to prevent rust/corrosion.
Thank you for sharing your recommendations.
Even if it rusts it will just rust around the hole which is very small to begin with so no big harm at all really
@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf thank you for this input.
Hey man. Great video. Helped out a lot. I’m in the middle of Changing out my trans fluid right now. But a couple comments and a few questions. Looks like it’s been serviced before. Fluid didn’t look too horrible. But I am getting a trans temp rising alert after about 50 miles of driving. So just assumed it had never been changed. So when I pulled the drain plug I went to pull out the leveler and nothing was there. Pulled the pan and it’s not there. How important is it to have. I know it’s to leave it off but if I put the same back in that came out I should be good without it 🤷🏻. ?? Also I found it much easier to get to the fill plug from the top. Just have to remove the engine filter housing and hose to the turbo just have more room. Also the plug was so tight that I couldn’t use the 10mm on the torx. So I cut the torx off at the top of the adapter and put the torx in the shortest 10mm socket I could and it allows the room to put a 3/8 breaker bar on it. Much easier. Was really hard to find where that damn fill plug was at first. Lol. But thanks for the video.
Also is the trans fluid temp sensor in the transmission ?? Thanks
@@jamesvorhis9830 How is the change coming along? To answer your question, having the leveler is critical. As you know, it tells you when the right amount of fluid is reached. Now assuming that your original fluid level was correct, yes, replacing the amount of fluid removed, would be acceptable. We just do not know if the amount in there, was correct.
If you had found that ATF did not drip from the drain bolt hole with the engine running and the ATF temperature at spec, would you be able to add more ATF through the fill bolt hole using your hose pump method with the engine running while watching for ATF spillage from the drain bolt hole? The reason I ask is because I have read anecdotal accounts stating that ATF will gush from the open fill bolt hole if the engine is running.
Great question...I have changed out AT fluid this method on several European vehicles. There isn't one that suggest that you add more fluid from the fill bolt while the engine is running. With that said, I would not recommend it as fluid could be forced out of the fill hole.
hello i am trying to service my r60 base, my only question is what size drill bit did you use in order to access the torque bit (on the r60 base this is actually a 10mm bolt and cannot find any other way to get it out)
In all honesty, I do not recall. What you can do is remove one of the bolts and match it up to a drill close in size.
Nice video sifu 👍👍👍👍 i am subscribing now 😊
Thank you for watching and the support!
Does the hole that’s near the flex pipe and a semi circle have a plug? I didn’t see one on mine but I wasn’t sure if my mechanic removed it and forgot about it.
No, it does not.
Thank you for your video. Very informative! Going to work on my daughter's 05 mini cooper base model. Any thoughts on simply adding the new fluid into the pan, prior to putting to back on?
Mark, there is nothing wrong with adding fluid into the pan before you mount it, but let me give you this piece of advice....if you go that route, you better make sure you have stable hands. Otherwise you'll spill the fluid everywhere. Ask me how I know. LOL
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic filled to the brim, eh? Good point. I'll let you know how it works out.
@@markash6094 How did it go? looking to do mine soon. Curious to see how it went.
@@jitterz0135 it went ok. Better than I expected. Didn't have to remove the motor mounts. The drain plug was seized, so I spilled alot on removal. Removing and putting each bolt back on was challenging. It turned out that the previous owner had overfilled the trans fluid, which caused the same symptoms that a dirty filter does. Remember to fill with the exact amount of fluid. A second set of hands (daughter) helps alot.
@@markash6094 Sounds good. Thanks for the info.
What type of transmission oil did you put in?
I used Redline Dev 4 ATF.
What was the mileage on the cooper you did the fluid change on? Mine is at 152k (bought it at 143k) and as far as I know, the trans fluid has never been changed and I’m wondering if I should change mine but I’ve heard that if it’s been that long without a change the clutches can start to slip with fresh fluid. The cooper itself is a 2009 Base/Justa hardtop 6-speed auto.
Edited for spelling & punctuation if anyone was wondering.
My Countryman had over 135K miles and you saw how dark the fluid was. IMHO, I would change your fluid out. Many mechanics will tell you to leave it as is but the benefits outweigh the downsides.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Thanks for the info. I'll do it as soon as I have the extra time and money.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic how has the transmission been acting since you changed the fluid?
@@jitterz0135 It's been shifting well. The notchiness which I had before the change, is gone.
Hi Peter... 2011 r60 s mini..Im going to try and drill a 9/16th hole in the sub frame tomorrow
so i can remove that torx bolt... im also going to replace the torx bolt with a regular identical
transmission bolt...
Wish me luck!!!
Good luck Doyle, just remember to take your time!
How do you check the trans fluid level in a 2012 countryman?
It's an in-depth process. I talk about it starting at 14:50
Hello, do you know how you can reset the error for the transmission fluid? Thanks!
I never had an transmission fluid error. Can you show me what that error looks like?
Have a buddy asking me if i would consider doing his oil and filter change for him was thinking about it lol but remembered doing my trucks was a B and took a good 2/3 hours smh just from taking my time and not rushing…. But good video..
About how long did this job take if you remember??
If my memory serves me correctly, this project took roughly 2-3hrs.
So as you have the vehicle on and running you’re draining the transmission fluid going through all the gears and then get out of the vehicle check to see if the fluid is completely done training or how long do you keep going through the gears
You only need to run through the gears once, twice at the most and pause 2-3 seconds in each gear.
Did you have to add more after the 4.5 quarts? did you pump more in until it started to come out?
No, I ended up using roughly 4 quarts of ATF. In order to get the right about, you have to run the transmission to the proper temp as I described.
Great video Peter thanks! One of the few videos out there for doing this procedure. Question please, what is the purpose of monitoring the transmission fluid temperature? Is it so that if you get past the 95-115F window and nothing has come out yet, you know you need to add more fluid? Can we not just let the car run until fluid comes out without knowing the temperature, since that will happen at 95-115F? And if nothing comes out after awhile we would know to add more fluid?
Hello Ryan. Thanks for watching and the question. I'm no technical guru when it comes to transmission fluid requirements, but believe the process I shared, is how many European manufactures use to properly "level" the fluid amount in the transmission. Porsche, VW, Audi, etc all use such techniques. You simply can't put fluid in, run it until fluid comes out and expect it to be properly leveled. At the proper temperature, fluid should flow out and if not, it's under-filled.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Oooh okay thanks I think I get it now. So it sounds like it's possible that the transmission fluid could be low, but at higher temperatures would start to come out, which would trick someone into thinking it's leveled?
If I have one of those laser thermometers, would tracking the temperature of the transmission pan be sufficient?
@@ryanprinsen8585 sorry I didn't explain the leveling process well. Using a laser thermometer would work fine. Another method that some DIYers have used which isn't as accurate, is to measure the volume of fluid that is removed, and add "slightly" more when you replace.
Thanks for the explanation! I was able to use a laser thermometer and check when the temperature was about 100° on the pan. I removed the drain plug and a thin steady stream of fluid came out. Am I supposed to let it come out until it stops? I let a little under 10ozs come out and then got nervous and closed it up, and came to ask here 😅
@@ryanprinsen8585 According to the service manual, yes, you allow fluid to come out until it becomes a slow drip. That's when it's properly leveled.
In filling process, should I open the DRAIN plug or the FILL plug to see if it comes out some fluid, and check if I’m okay in fluid level. You said drain plug, but I don’t now If it was a mistake.
Thank you for asking. You need to open the DRAIN plug because excess fluid will come out from there. Take a look at 11:00 and you'll see the spout that holds fluid in.
Hi - what size of drill bit did you use to drill the subframe
1/4" will work.
awesome video, just subscribed. thanks for sharing the knowledge! curious on what exact fluid you used? you also menioned when the fluid starts to spill out of the top off tube, you are at correct level. how much fluid should you let overflow? let it drain till it stops overflowing, or just until it starts to overflow?
Hello Will, thanks for watching and the support! To answer your question, I used Redline MTL fluid. When the fluid starts to flow out of the fill plug, simply replace it as there isn't an exact amount that needs to be flowing out.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic thanks again. Just ordered the filter kit and will track down the oil 🙏
Good luck, happy to help out.
It was a nice video, but you didn't mention which car model was it? I have mini cooper s convertible 2007 . Is it the same ?
hello, I should have made the models a little more apparent. It's in the title though.
Is this the same with the R56 2010 base model hatchback non S?
If it uses the same transmission, then yes.
Is changing the Transmission Oil on the F60 different from the R60?.
The F60 platform will be closer to the maintenance procedures for a BMW. I would suggest taking a look at their procedure as it might give you a better idea.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Thank You.
F60 is a follow up transmission from Aisin - not the same!
I have a 2013 R61 with 51k miles. Looking to change the automatic transmission fluid soon, will watch to see if I do myself or have it taken in. Great content!
Niemira, try it yourself. Aside from the makeshift tools I used, it's not too difficult.
Why not just disconnect the lower engine mount and just shift the engine and trans forward a little to get access to the blocked trans pan hex bolt?
Thank you for this suggestion. In all honesty, I didn't even think about this route as I was afraid to go down a rabbit hole I wasn't prepared for.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I tried shifting the engine, but it doesnt create enough to access the corner 10mm bolt. I got a 10mm wrench in there but not enough to rotate the wrench. You need to unbolt the transmission mount and jack the trans up a little to make space.
@@Lex-pq9bl Thank you for the update. Hopefully others will see your technique and give it a try.
Are there screens on the solenoids that need to be cleaned?
John, if my memory serves me correctly, I do not believe so. The filter has screens, but if you're replacing it, you do not need to clean it.
Thanks for the video. What size/length tubing did you use for the filling tube?
I'm sorry Sean, I do not recall the tube sizing. For length, you would need at least 4-6ft.
How can you skip over removing the fill plug, thats the only part that isnt clear without removing alot of parts
Thanks for the input...I thought @ 4:49, I went in-depth on what tools to use and how to remove the fill plug.
I have 15 countryman R60 non turbo, could low fluid cause hasitation on take off?
I am not a certified mechanic, but I do not believe it's related to your transmission.
Trying to fill my transmission up with fluid, but barely any is going in from the fill plug. I have completely drained the transmission fluid. Any advice or help would be appreciated.
How are you filling it? Are you using force feed to push the fluid in?
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic yes i am
As im pumping it in it stsrts to spill right out of the fill whole as if the tranny was full or something
@@bekimveliju3321 silly question, but I assume, you drained the correct fluid. Yes?
If you drained the fluid completely, fluid should flow in unless you're obstructing the flow somehow.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic yes, I definitely drain the transmission fluid
If that fluid is that bad it should be changed again right away Mine was starting to slip and I changed it several times and saved it and it had another 100k when I sold it No tranny issues and was told it was shot .
I agree, the tranny fluid does need to be changed.
What fluid did you use and how many quarts? Thanks
Thank you for asking. In all honesty, I do not remember the exact brand. I just remember that I purchased quality ATF that was specifically matched for the transmission.
I’ve found out it’s dexron D2 Just changed it 18/4/24 the gearbox held 2.2 Litres before it came out of the fluid level centre hole
@@ashk5331 thanks for sharing.
Will tell you the amount when I’ve done it 😁👍
@@ashk5331 awesome!
Hello there, Sir my Mini cooper fail to change speed ,I shift D and is Ok shift R and is Ok but driving the car do not change speed. What will be the problem in my My Cooper 2008??????
Hello Victor, sorry to hear about your trouble. Unfortunately, I am not a transmission expert so you may need to scan the car for codes, then have a Mini transmission specialist check out your car.
I know you did this two years i need to know the name of that temp app
You can use the app and OBD plug in scanner from OBDLink.
Does anyone know what size torx bit is needed for the bolt on the pan above the frame?
Kevin, it should be the same as the other bolts.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic the other bolts are not torx, they’re hex head
@@kevinpoehlmann5157 No other bolt is a torx? That's odd that only that particular bolt would be a torx.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic You show it clearly in your video. Torx (you call it "star bolt") is the screw you need to drill the hole to get to. the other pan bolds are regular hex.
@@kevinpoehlmann5157 My apologies Kevin if I forgot that single bolt is a torx bit and the rest are regular hex. Perhaps you can try a T25, 27, or 30.
What size is the star bit??????????
At which point are you referencing?
Where do you fill it into?
Aiden, check out the section starting from 4:48.
2011 r60 s 6 speed and definitely want to do this. Wil drill the whole and get this done
Just take your time issac, do not rush.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic will do thanks
My R60 2014 Automatic transmission hard to shift from P to R, is it because the transmission fluid? My R60 already at 30k ish miles.
Aldy, your R60 doesn't seem to have that many miles. You can try to change the fluids due to its age and see if it helps. I suspect something else.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic what do you suspect with my problem? Its quite hard pulling from P to R mostly after I start my car.
@@asantos88 I'm sorry but I would not know. Too many variables.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I see, thanks for your reply.
How do you reset the transmission oil shelf life expired message
I believe you need to do the reset through the car's computer system. It's a series of menus located on the screen.
I attempted the drilling technique and didn’t have a good angle to fit a torx bit to the single transmission pan torx bolt. I was able to purchase set of T-handled torx from Harbor freight and was able to get the pan off. If anyone else ever attempts the “drill technique” make sure you drill in the rear part of the hole to get access to the Torx bolt.
Sean, thanks for the input as I know that one bolt is not easy to access. Hopefully future DIYers will see your comment and take note when changing theirs out.
where else would u drill it lol
It seems like you could put the star bit into the bolt and turn it with a box wrench. Should be enough space without drilling the hole in the subframe and creating a fatigue failure stress point
Great idea Hugh. The only issue, you still can't get a torque wrench in there to torque the bolt to spec. Then again, it's only 1 bolt.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic The bolt is very close to the subframe, there's barely enough room to tuirn it out without any tool attached, if you have any corrosion issues you will never get a tool in. I drilled a hole, it doesn't compromise the subframe in any meaningful way (there are already far bigger holes in it )
@@Duffy3074 Thank you for confirming that the little hole we created does not compromise the safety of the subframe.
@@Duffy3074 Could you please share which drill bit brand and size you used? TIA!!!
@@elchecko75 I used an 8mm to accommodate the torx driver I used, it was a bog standard HSS drill, the metal isn’t particularly hard.
How often should I change it for a R59 2019 Mini Cooper S dual clutch transmission? Thanks man!
I would change your dual clutch fluid every 30K miles.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic thanks man!
Mini or Aisin automatic transmission is not double clutch - it is converter transmission.
Oil change + filter every 80.000 - 90.000 km or 50.000 - 55.000 miles ... good enough.
For double clutch like Audi or other every 60.000 km or 40.000 miles
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
Guys I stripped the full cap torx bolt on top, any ideas?
Are you referring to the fill bolt? When you mean stripped, are you referring to the entire bolt than threads into the transmission...or are you referring to the part which an allen key goes into?
The fill plug is right below the thermostad, remove the water hose and boom, you are done.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Hopefully someone can try your recommendation and make the fluid change/fill easier.
Thank you Peter. This is very useful.
Thanks for watching and the support!
Thanks
Hope the video was useful for you.
Hey Peter
This sounds too good to be true, but I asked my Mini Dealership service advisor how much a drain and fill would cost on my 2010 Mini Clubman. Surprisingly it’s only $99?! I’ll schedule the service and report how it goes!
When I bought my used JCW with 35,000 miles on it from a dealer, I negotiated a transmission fluid drain and fill - they said the service team had never done it before, "lifetime fluid" after all (IMO lifetime fluid means they think the lifetime of the car is 100,000 miles). After talking to the service team they estimated at their shop rate it was about a $1,000 service, but conceded to do it as agreed. If they'll do the the drain and fill for $99, I'd make sure they are doing what you think they're doing but, assuming they are.. I'd totally jump on that.
@@michaels7199 I agree....you need to make sure you know what the $99 covers. Even a DIYER like myself, I would never perform the service that cheap.
for gods shake why is so difficult to remove anything in cooper that car drives me so crazy... I'm done with mini cooper seriously
I'm with you...the oil filter on the R56 is ridiculous.
There is a much easier way to remove the fill plug and fill the fluid.
I am all ears...let us know your technique.
BTW, thanks for the input about my method being bad advice. I informed viewers that my method was unorthodox.
... correct - but we read or hear nothing!@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
I wonder why mini decided to have two drain plugs for the trans. Lol wtf
Germain engineering at its finest.
Talk to much not things to do
Thanks Hoangpham for your honest and open input. Videos like mine which detail out the process is not for everyone.