hi great help, I got in trouble with the tool offset, I have put the tool Nr 1 a 4mm finish EM and by the hight a dummy nr as you did but the tool offsets button is off , please help.
Hello, what are the conditions that must be available in the computer in order for the Mash3 usb to work with me without problems, and thank you very much
Great video, I just have a question on the x and y axis offset. The mill tool Dia is .3125 inch and the Gage block or shim is .005 inch. I was wondering why did you double the thickness of the gage to .01 in and the total dia is .3225 inch. I was think only one side on the cutting edge of the tool is contact with the surface of the block so you just have to add .3125 and .005 and the result is .3175 inches. if the off set is .3225 inch would it be too far from the block that is needed to be milled?
you need to double the thickness and add that to the diameter of the mill. It is like using a mill that has a diameter of 0.3225 wiithout the paper shim to do the touch off edge finding, but then you would risk scraping the work piece or crashing against it.
Hi Frank, thanks for a great educational video, I have a question regarding on tool length measurement using G59, so when you change tool for a different operation ,do you always have to reset the G59 tool off set and new tool length measurement must be made? because I am working on this one milling project and it requires few operations with different mill end bits and length. Thanks in advance
Hi. If you follow this method, you only need to touch off your tools once. As long as the tool remains in a fixed position in the tool holder, you will be good to go. If you are just using collets, then you have to touch off the tool every time you load it.
@@bradfrancola8485 great video, i've been looking for this info long time. Just to continue this question, to make sure: if i turn on my machine, home its position and set Z0 on my workpiece with one of my known tools, ten mach3 calculates Z offset for each other tool? Now im just zeroing every tool when i change it
When you Jog down in MPG one step 0.001" do you press, and will move continually or just no matter how much you pressed it you will get 0.001. Because my system moves more than 0.001" when you press it, what I'm doing wrong?
Hi. The G59 thing is something I do that works well for me - but there are many ways to do this. The G59 location is a fixed point in space where I touch off every tool. IMO, it eliminates a lot of confusion. Once I have the tool length(s) set for my tool(s) I then proceed to finding my G54 work offset. Tool lengths first, work offsets second.
OK, I get that you like the feel of the shim as an edge finder, but DON'T do this with gloves on! even though those nitrile gloves are pretty flimsy, it's just a bad practice to have gloves anywhere near rotating parts. That mill would be happy to rip a finger off. I've seen it happen.
@@dni3541 I understand your concern, but that isn't how it works. First, you home out your machine. Then, you measure your tools. Last, you touch off your part to establish part zero. I like to measure the tools on the vise fixed jaw because it never moves.
Using a shim provides more tactile feedback. I can "feel" the end mill starting to grab the shim. Edge finders are ok, too. I just don't like them as much as the shim method. Truth be told, the most accurate method is using an indicator and a gage block. That is how the old jig-bore machine guys were trained.
I agree with Josh. This method is seriously dangerous. Do not follow this procedure. Never put your fingers in a situation where they can be pulled into a cutting tool.
Feliz día hermano! Todo depende de la tarjeta controlado que tenga. Desde allí va a usar un pin de entrada donde vas a colocar un cable para una pinza llamada probe y el otro cable va en el común. Cuando toque ambos extremos te va a dar una señal que será utilizada como punto de contacto entre la herramienta y el material a trabajar. Comencemos con Que me digas que tipo de tarjeta controladora estas usando? Mi correo es sotogiovanny@gmail.com
Love the idea of G59 as a std location to check/create your tool height offsets.
Nice job!
+Robert Picinic Thanks. I'm glad you found that helpful.
Well done! I'm saving this to my favorites.
+Crivo152 Thanks!
Another great vid! Thank you! Very helpful. :)
+bluehandsvideo I'm glad you liked it.
Great great video. Great explanation
Great video, thanks for sharing!
When you are close to the surface, just release the tool from the tool holder, lower it to the surface, and tighten it again.
Excellent video...thank you!
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful.
AWESOME! Thanks a million
Great video!
Thanks!
Great video thank you
hi great help, I got in trouble with the tool offset, I have put the tool Nr 1 a 4mm finish EM and by the hight a dummy nr as you did but the tool offsets button is off , please help.
great video its not letting me set the bit and the green light dosnt come on
any help
At the minute 5:01 how did you paste the comand on the input and then what command did you pulse to crank the spindle down. Thank you
we assume that clamp is perfectly parallel to the axis, right ?
Hello, what are the conditions that must be available in the computer in order for the Mash3 usb to work with me without problems, and thank you very much
Great video, I just have a question on the x and y axis offset. The mill tool Dia is .3125 inch and the Gage block or shim is .005 inch. I was wondering why did you double the thickness of the gage to .01 in and the total dia is .3225 inch. I was think only one side on the cutting edge of the tool is contact with the surface of the block so you just have to add .3125 and .005 and the result is .3175 inches. if the off set is .3225 inch would it be too far from the block that is needed to be milled?
you need to double the thickness and add that to the diameter of the mill. It is like using a mill that has a diameter of 0.3225 wiithout the paper shim to do the touch off edge finding, but then you would risk scraping the work piece or crashing against it.
How about a mechanical edge finder?...they're cheap as not to use one, and much better than using a rotating mill and a paper.
if you dont touch off the head without a tool how can you get a tool measurement..?
Hi Frank, thanks for a great educational video, I have a question regarding on tool length measurement using G59, so when you change tool for a different operation ,do you always have to reset the G59 tool off set and new tool length measurement must be made? because I am working on this one milling project and it requires few operations with different mill end bits and length. Thanks in advance
Hi. If you follow this method, you only need to touch off your tools once. As long as the tool remains in a fixed position in the tool holder, you will be good to go. If you are just using collets, then you have to touch off the tool every time you load it.
@@bradfrancola8485 great video, i've been looking for this info long time. Just to continue this question, to make sure: if i turn on my machine, home its position and set Z0 on my workpiece with one of my known tools, ten mach3 calculates Z offset for each other tool? Now im just zeroing every tool when i change it
When you Jog down in MPG one step 0.001" do you press, and will move continually or just no matter how much you pressed it you will get 0.001. Because my system moves more than 0.001" when you press it, what I'm doing wrong?
Is there any point in doing this if you are just using r8 collets instead of repeatable tool holders?
Hi Franco i am not understanding the G59, is this just a reference for positioning for G54? Thanks, Great Video!
Hi. The G59 thing is something I do that works well for me - but there are many ways to do this. The G59 location is a fixed point in space where I touch off every tool. IMO, it eliminates a lot of confusion. Once I have the tool length(s) set for my tool(s) I then proceed to finding my G54 work offset. Tool lengths first, work offsets second.
OK, I get that you like the feel of the shim as an edge finder, but DON'T do this with gloves on! even though those nitrile gloves are pretty flimsy, it's just a bad practice to have gloves anywhere near rotating parts. That mill would be happy to rip a finger off. I've seen it happen.
OrganGrinderEleven
took the words out of my mouth. never wear gloves machining, any machine any time!
Your comment made me think of that one scene in The Machinist.
do you know what to move in the mach to get off the switched on limit switch?
Override it when it moves off it will reset and your good
Your x and y home positions are backwards.
i thought so too,for a minute i thought i was wrong.
What machine are you using?
Grizzly G0704
Thanks. I what to get one and get cutting
You should touch the tool offset on the top part.( you shouldn't touch on the vise
Why not?
The tool is longer. It will go deeper. It may crash your machine.
@@dni3541 I understand your concern, but that isn't how it works. First, you home out your machine. Then, you measure your tools. Last, you touch off your part to establish part zero. I like to measure the tools on the vise fixed jaw because it never moves.
Why not use an edge finder?
Using a shim provides more tactile feedback. I can "feel" the end mill starting to grab the shim. Edge finders are ok, too. I just don't like them as much as the shim method. Truth be told, the most accurate method is using an indicator and a gage block. That is how the old jig-bore machine guys were trained.
I agree with Josh. This method is seriously dangerous. Do not follow this procedure. Never put your fingers in a situation where they can be pulled into a cutting tool.
Guys please don’t do this for finding the edge of your work piece use an edge finder they are cheap enough you will loose a finer dong this
I clicked on video to see how to bring it on origin zero but no info
DO NOT WEAR GLOVES AND BE CLOSE TO A ROTATING TOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doesn't matter if it's just nitrile, they can still pull your fingers into a tool.
You can do an easy script for auto tool 0. PM me and I could get you a link for that. with this script setup, it takes about 30sec to zero out your z
Great video till them gloves get pulled into that end mill.... Omg I'm cringing an grinding my teeth watchn this
en mi caso es más práctico y fácil el auto tool zero..
Hola Tinca Merida, estoy empezando con mach3. Antes utilizaba grbl 0.9
Puedes decirme la forma de utilizar el auto tool zero de mach3?
Saludos
Feliz día hermano! Todo depende de la tarjeta controlado que tenga.
Desde allí va a usar un pin de entrada donde vas a colocar un cable para una pinza llamada probe y el otro cable va en el común. Cuando toque ambos extremos te va a dar una señal que será utilizada como punto de contacto entre la herramienta y el material a trabajar.
Comencemos con Que me digas que tipo de tarjeta controladora estas usando?
Mi correo es sotogiovanny@gmail.com
Mi español es muy malo. Estoy feliz de ver a alguien más ha tenido la amabilidad de ayudarle. ¡Que te diviertas!
Te escribí a tu correo.
Gracias
i really didnt understand ...too complicated