Battery Desulfation Demonstration Start to Finish - Part 1/2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2020
- Battery Desulfation Demonstration Start to Finish - Part 1/2
In this video I demonstrate the full desulfation process using a lab style power supply and a lab style electronic load. After editing part1 of this video I realized it would be very boring so I set the project aside, but decided to pick it up again later on to finish it as I thought it was still informative. Please let me know if this is something that interests you.
Where to purchase the Lab Power Supply used in this video:
amzn.to/3fCunJp
Where to purchase the Electronic Load used in this video:
amzn.to/2V9yZx0
FTC Disclosure Statement:
Some links may be affiliate links. I may get a commission if products are purchased using the links provided.
I cannot guarantee against improper use of the information contained in this video, nor guarantee against unintended consequences of replicating what is seen in this video. I assume no liability for property damage or personal injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Be sure to read and follow all safety instructions for any equipment seen or implied in this video, and use safe practicies when working with potentially dangerous equipment. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hip hip hooray the man is making videos!
Pleasant surprise to see activity from you channel again. Always impressed with your knowledge and manner of presentation. Plz continue to share.👍
There are thousands of us who are just happy to see you back Knurlgnar! You have always made the best inverter videos anywhere on TH-cam.
Thanks Drewboo!
This is how I know we are headed to better times. Knurlgnar is back posting vids. Love it!
Thank you very much for the very helpful method. I have a 12V 12Ah battery which died and it didn't react on smart battery charger. Using your method I was able to recover the battery and use it. As I don't own lab equipment, 1st I have used 36V 4.5A adapter, the current was slowly rising from 0.01A to above 2 A over a day and battery gets very warm, batt. voltage at the end of the day was above 10V, which dropped to 8V overnight. So I started the cycle again next day. until the current rose to 3A, I stopped there as I don't own lab equipment, voltage at the end of the day was above 11V and dropped above 9V overnight. Next day I took laptop power supply 20V 4,5A and it took approx a day the current rose above 2A and batt. voltage was above 12V. Then I attached the smart charger, and it charged the battery overnight. I took few days but I can use it now.
That's great! I much enjoy situations where people use what they have on hand to accomplish things that ordinarily wouldn't be possible without some knowledgeable creativity. Sometimes the best hammer you have on hand is a wrench, and sometimes the best pry bar you have on hand is a screwdriver. It works.
I'm glad to see you back. I find your videos very informative, accurate, and helpful. Production quality is not as important as the three things I just mentioned. Whenever you need a break or don't feel like doing videos, that's your prerogative.
Knurlgnar rulz! Fantastic to enjoy regular content from you again - please don't burn out, you have lots of fans out here who understand if you need a break - just keep on creatin' !
Oh hell yes! Another
knurlgnar24's hands video! Saturday is saved!!!
Hi, excellent explanation. I hope you will also be doing switching power supply , chargers and inverter type repair videos like all the ones you did before. I very much enjoy your videos, thank you for the considerable time and effort that you must put into producing these videos for all of us that really enjoy watching them. I hope that the coming here will be very good and rewarding for you.
good to see you back :) waiting for part 2, cheers 👏👌🍁🙋♂️😊👍😉
Just the video I was looking for. Thanks!
Welcome back, good to see that u ok and doing videos again
Glad to see you back !!!!
Welcome back, knurlgnar!!! Always good informative pertinent video presentation greatly missed.
Cats don't mind a little danger, they have nine lives! Eight lives. Seven. Better lock up the cat.
Going to miss the videos that you do. Out here in cyber space your work has been well received.
Nice to have you back
I really missed your videos man. I'm a truck driver and your inverter videos helped me a ton
Thanks! You truck drivers are underappreciated in my opinion!
we'd all love to see you making videos man!!
glad to see you back ...
Finally back thank God!
Thank you. Very good explanation. It has shown me what I wanted to know.
Great informative video, thanks.
Hi , thanks for the video. you look expert on the topic, and all the reasonings sound correct. Do you have any link or literature on this? I would like to have more details on how much current should I set for a 100Ah battery, with several hour process. what is the dependance with temp and so on (I'm desulfating my camper batt)
Excellent demonstration video, greetings from Saudi Arabia.
Good to hear from you again! The other aspect of voltage and Ah capacity is the internal impedance, especially when discharging.
Great point!
Since I have a bench supply, this works for me. Thank you.
Man where have you been!!!
welcome back
Yah a new video
Great to see you back 👍
I'm interested, just bought home a dozen of these from ups's that I picked up for a test run of my solar setup while I build the 18650 packs
Look forward to part 2
And hope you make more, I've watched All you back catalogue
Can't believe you made it through all of my boring monologues! I fear my love of lead acid batteries may become obsolete in time as lithium batteries get less expensive. :( I do expect insurance companies to ban lithium battery banks in houses in the near future though unless very onerous and expensive 'certified and inspected' government approved pre-built units are used. Unfortunately the law will likely blanket all types of batteries because government is lazy. Thanks lithium! ...
@@knurlgnar24 Haha, I thoroughly enjoyed them, a good mix of detailed infomation with your impressions thrown in, not long and boring but also not just edited highlights
I only came across you a few years back when I started getting some free laptop batteries, so it was your inverter tests that attracted me
Think I ended watching everything you'd published, so great to see new content
Agree with your thoughts on lead acids future, they've served us very well with little change over the years and are definitely far safer than lithium
Appreciate your reply, take care and wish you all the best
@@knurlgnar24 The 2017 National Electric Code has a new section 480.3 which reads as follows: "Storage batteries and battery management equipment shall be listed. This requirement shall not apply to lead-acid batteries."
Based on this, I would expect insurance companies to ban homemade lithium banks, but allow lead-acid. At the very least lead acid banks will almost assuredly remain legal. I really don't know what sore of wording insurance companies would use to ban lithium banks, maybe capacity would be a factor.
glad your back
Yah
More please
One of the few trustworthy sources on TH-cam
Thanks for this. I have a 12v 20Ah SLA battery that I neglected and when I tested it, it was 6v. None of my smart chargers would touch it. I have a lab power supply and it never dawned on me to try that - even though I've used it before to charge batteries. Anyway, 24hrs later and it was taking 2Ah from the power supply. It's now charging on a normal charger which shows 20% charge. Even if it's not useful at the end of the exercise, it was fun!
the reason "smart" chargers don't touch dead batteries is because they don't see a load and they have short circuit protection built in because dumb people like to shock themselves or start fires. you can trick them into seeing a load by putting a high-wattage resistor or incandescent light bulb in parallel w the battery.
Great video. Thank you
Great video!
Love the project room, a beer and el-Pussy-gato helping you out!
nice to see you again
Good to see ya back man . Gosh I remember watching your first desulfating video has been too long . Can you also do a video why you will never get the rated AH on a lead acid battery please
Welcome back!
Good information!
I have a U1 12V battery that sat for at least 4 years from my snowblower. I didn't bother maintaining it since I have had a snow clearing service. Anyway, it has been stored indoors just to make sure it didn't freeze. It read just over 6V and I decided to charge it with my new Pro-Logix PL2320 (at 2A)...I had to see if it worked. (all my other chargers are low current chargers/maintainers). Incredible, it took a charge and then went into maintenance mode. I did a load test at 100A and it dropped to 10V which it held. OCV a day later is 12.60V. I have done a few charge and load test cycles. So far so good.
I have saved so many batteries from certain death due to what I learned from your old videos.
knurlgnar's hands are back from hiatus now too! :D fun fact, Evervolt's old school 9 volt batteries used to have a black and white cat in their logo not unlike yours! so i'd say that's very appropriate! enjoyed the video and looking forward to how it turns out in part 2
your videos are great
Nice to see you back too! I loved the inverter reviews. I have learned that nearly all batteries that came from computer UPS's are usually toasted. I think they are just boiled dry. I have found a few bloated out too. The only batteries that stand a chance of recovery are ones that were simply neglected, under charged, sat on a shelf for 2+ years since new. There is no way of recovering a battery that has been cycled over and over to near dead everytime, or float charged at 15 volts like some UPS's can do. They're just pooped out.
I agree. Most UPS units are designed for battery changes every couple of years and they 'boil' them dry fairly quickly by floating them at a high enough voltage to recharge them relatively quickly after use but low enough to avoid the cost of a multi stage charger. The old ubiquitous APC Smart UPS units float them at around 14V from what I've seen.
All batteries can dry out which is a point that all battery manufacturers are aware of but never disclose to their customers. So when they say Gel and AGM are maintenance free, it's like saying transmission fluid is 'lifetime' fluid...yeah, for the lifetime of the vehicle which is a relative term. I think there needs to be more testing done by flooding AGM and Gel batteries to see how many if any are recoverable by adding water. AGM should have the best luck as I spoke with one manufacturer that told me they flood their AGM batteries with a typical water and sulfuric acid solution then dump out the excess in order for the battery to be classified as "AGM".
@@imzjustplayin Agree with your facts.
liked your video very much. please keep videos on
i'll try this with my nackered old sealed acid batteries , they hold only a tiny charge and i do have an old charger and big 12v motor to discharge it , was thinking getting 2v cells from a forklift and trying those on my solar setup to get free power at night but here in scotland hard to find tham. thanks for posting
I found your channel when you weren't making videos. And was like damn this is great. And I understand prison or children can inconvenience alot of doing things. LOL
Good to see you back. Maybe you can do a video of you cleaning up your shop!
NEVER! The chaos is what makes me feel ALIVE!!!
@@knurlgnar24 i agree when I clean my shop I can't find anything
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy approved ! that was good info
Glad to see you back! That intro music is the best, don't change it. I'm curious to see a demo of the battery capacity and output power of a recovered battery like this. What percentages can you expect? As for other properties, like self-discharge, do you have any predictions on what those could look like?
Part2 will have some, but not all, of that info. The video got long so I cut it short. Typically if a battery recovers it will have a higher internal resistance than when new and a lower capacity - the two are usually about the same percentage of new though it varies. Self-discharge is a wildcard in my experience. Most of the time you'll have no issues with it but it will almost certainly be higher by some amount than a new battery.
If you haven't bought a bench top power supply you are missing out,
After you own one you will wonder how you ever lived without it,
I can't say enough 😀
I've Really Missed Your Videos.
Nice to see u back!! U should try capacity recovery of lithium batteries next, that would be really cool if u could get it to work.
Lithium batteries cannot be overcharged and are quite fragile. To be honest they scare me a little due to their horrific failure modes so I don't have much interest in working with damaged lithium batteries.
Thanks for pointing me to this video. The batteries I mentioned in my last message all test at around 12.5+ volts. I'm glad they are totally run down. Coincidentally the 20 batteries I have are from the same company they are leoch lpc12-75
I remember your comment but can't seem to find it - youTube mysteriously deletes things at will for unstated reasons. In any case those sound like very nice batteries and I hope you are able to restore them to useful condition and make use of them! I'd take those for my battery bank if I had the chance. :)
Brute force, good idea.👍 Nice charger.
When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a battery.
I think that's how the saying goes.
Revived 👏👏👏
I love your almost despondent; seen it all attitude. You're one of the few tell it like it is. I missed yer videos. The industry needs more good skins calling manufacturers out on their BS.
I have a feeling you are going to get noticed more in the near future. I would think of making more frequent videos on battery power and reviving.
Thank you for the comment. I'm mostly inactive at this time but am considering reviving the channel in the future.
Welcome back to the world of the living.
Long time no see.
i liked the vid please make part 2
I never release part x until the full series is uploaded. Will be posted within the next week.
Love your cat. Wish I had a place to have a buddy.
I didn't either, but I made a place.
@@knurlgnar24 unfortunately the back of my truck is now my car of ten years got lost at a parking lot where the police came and my cat jumped out and I couldn't find her.
The real deal is back!!! Would be cool to test the dc to dc chargers compared to direct alternator to house Batts in rv use.
I actually have a video planned on converting an industrial power supply to a battery charger. I won't be comparing to an alternator setup but you can draw your own conclusions. In all honesty I'd personally recommend the dc/dc charger approach for most people. The alternator/engine approach is better for a prepper type as it's so simple, parts are easy to find, and it will last reliably for thousands of hours. On the other hand you never know when electronics will fail you.
@@knurlgnar24 Yes , agreed, the heavy duty ,upgraded alternators or dedicated secondary alternator like the #humbleroad van builder George, uses does simplify the charging system.I use a simple 150 amp breaker switch like you demonstrated ,manual off and on close to the driver's seat and a couple deep cycle batts. seem to work fine for me.After engine/ alternator is turned off the batts seem to drop from 14 to around 12.8 volts. But they power a low grade, 1000 watt so called "pure sine wave" inverter to run a cpap breathing machine all night. The voltage drops to only about 12 volts.
I was surprised it worked!
With the "Vandweller RV" craze still strong, your channel could help a lot of "do it yourselfers." Thanks for all your knowledge and tips and testing! Cheers from Vancouver BC.
great video. i was trying this on a similar battery to yours. I had the power supply at 32v and it reached 1.3A then the current suddenly tanked all the way down to 200ma. Battery didnt seem that hot. Any explanation for this?
Great video, I will have to try this method on a couple batteries I have kicking around, worth a shot, but I wonder if the old timey unfiltered DC (pulsating) charger would have a better chance at desulfating?
@Thomas Chrombly But some of the newer "smart" chargers won't work if the battery is dead. The old "dumb" chargers which are nothing more than a trasnformer and rectifier will try to charge anything connected to it.
@@MRCNC1967 I have found that attaching a smart charger AND an extra voltage source will trick the smart charge to begin charging. Once it sees a base voltage, then remove the alternate voltage source and let the smart charger continue to charge. JwgK
Good job making the video, it was very informative. What is your opinion on battery desulfators? I use a Pulse Tech PowerPulse passive desulfator, they claim to have a patented frequency they use to desulfate batteries, I have been using it on my BMW battery for the past three years and never have any issue's starting even though I only drive about 25 miles per week.
I watched part 2 and then came back to view part 1.....still good info. I have removed the cover and rubber caps ( valves ) to add distilled water with a syringe into the cells. Is there a way to check specific gravity so that I may mix acid and water to be close to original solution ? I did not know before about leaving some headroom over the plates for off-gassing to re-constitute. Thanks JwgK
Unless the acid actually spilled only a trace amount of acid should have been lost. Distilled water should be the way to go.
I was interested in the desulfation process. I wanted to look it up because I have a 7-stage charger and was wondering what is the Battery Desulphation mode is. And then, about 09:43 you are openening up some Dragons Milk! Oh wow haha! Nice, I had that before.
Still my favorite beer. It's like drinking a loaf of bread. Yum!
Look into Optima Digital Chargers, especially the 1200. It really works. (GNB Marathon M12V90 batteries work again)
Since you apply more then double the voltage to the battery would it not be safer to keep the current to half the recommended current ?
Knurl - we have TWO crittens that are always of the mind... "What are you doing now?!"...LMBO!!
I fixed about 20 batteey in the last month and make some money.
I do not know how to Thank you sir for your effort and knowledge.
Thanks for the comment! So many useful batteries are destroyed every year which could be used instead to reduce waste, increase overall wealth, and help the environment.
Trying something similar with a trash picked 12V SLA , but at about 10 times the voltage. (and, at a much much lower current)
Yum indeed!
What you think if some use a buck converter with voltage and ampere regulation, then you have a cheap charger for batteries.
You need of course something to convert the main voltage to dc that the buckconverter can handle.
I intend to make a video in the future on this subject. Thank you for the suggestion.
@@knurlgnar24 That's a video I'd like to see too!
Cute cat
Nice 'This Old Tony' hand wave @18:20
Thanks. Is there some typical temperature one should never exceed while charging the lead-acid battery? Or is the only issue with temperature indirect: boiling water and exposing the plates to air - so that one should care only about supplying water and its spill-over as far as the temperature problem is concerned?
Since reaction rate doubles about every 10c once the battery becomes 'hot' to the touch it is beginning to be too hot. 110F or 120F is generally the cutoff point for when a person needs to stop or risk damaging the battery or spilling acid. Different batteries have different specs so without looking up any specific battery that would be my general recommendation.
What is the recommended discharge current to optimally recondition a battery? Isn't it that there is some trade off between the long reconditioning time, amount of water evaporated, and the level of the good sulfur coming back to the electrochemical reactions? Please explain this part more.
The discharge current matters little. The overcharge amount will determine the water lost.
I am attempting to recover a Absolyte 48 volt, 2000 amp hour battery... I am trying to learn this process. Is it possible to remove each 2 volt cell and independently charge each cell to a state of charge? I am hoping to achieve as many cycles as I am able. Am I out of my mind for even attempting?
Thanks for the really instructive video. What are the chances of reconditioning success when closed-valve VRLA batteries (like the one on this video) loose open-circuit voltage rather quickly after charging (and not using)? What could be the reason for the voltage drop? It can drop to a few volts or even below 1V after a month or a few.
Not good to be honest but may be worth a try if they're somewhat valuable batteries. If they're dried out you may need to add water. Sulfated batteries do lose voltage fairly quickly after charging but they shouldn't drain down to 1V unless there are other issues.
@@knurlgnar24 I thought this type of batteries as you have reconditioned here is totally sealed and there's no way of refilling anything there. But can I refill the water and seal everything as it was? It is really important due to the application of those batteries I am going to recondition, which is e-vehicle. I guess they do those batteries for e-vehicles sealed, i.e. with no obvious way to get to the cells, for a reason of high mobility, but on the other hand, there are car batteries with rather easy way to refill the water, so there may very well be no reason for sealing other than forcing users to buy more. What do you think? Will there be any difference in my chances of resealing the sealed batteries after refilling? Isn't that the only difference between the sealed batteries and non-sealed ones is the plastic cover topping the otherwise exact same caps of cells (same as in those car batteries I mentioned where I guess the very manufacturer allows the user to refill its battery from time to time)?
@@allegrofallegrof I think if you're talking e-vehicle battery banks there is hectic danger due to high voltage, compared to a 12V battery. If you keep in mind that electrolyte is "live", the hazard/chance of electrocution sounds too high to be worth doing, or is there a safe way to break the battery bank into 6-cell blocks before fiddling with acid levels? I'm just worried...
Very good video, please answer me I have the following problem, my laboratory power supply unit Wantpek APS3010H unfortunately only charges with CC until it reaches the closing voltage and then with CV and then the current drops, how did you set it so that you charge with CV and the current rises, thank you
Your power supply is working properly from what I can surmise from your comment. The current limit and the voltage limit are independent. If the voltage limit is reached current is lowered to prevent voltage from going higher, and if the current limit is reached voltage is lowered to prevent the current from going higher. It sounds to me that your batteries are not severely sulfated and are charging like typical batteries instead of charging like damaged batteries as shown in this video.
Just like old days :D
Only does vids when a Democrat is gonna be President. LoL 😆
:D
That battery was in a kids electric vehicle. The rubberized pad on the side is a vibration damper.
Hello, your videos are extremely informative and THANK YOU! I have a golf cart with 6 8v batteries. How can I use the same concepts? I have the 48v charger from Club Car, but how can I deal with one battery at a time, both for charging and for a load?
That particular charger doesn't allow overcharging for extended periods of time (I know because I have one) so you will have to use a different charger if your batteries are sulfated from storage at low SOC. The best option today in my opinion is to purchase a power supply as shown in this video - it doesn't have to be this particular one, just one that can do 60+ volts to charge the full battery bank. Let it overcharge for a time and then drive the cart until it dies and repeat. If your range increases the issue was sulfation. If it doesn't your battery issue was something else this video isn't covering.
@@knurlgnar24 Hi, and thanks for your thoughtful reply. I was thinking about refurbishing them one at a time - my concern was that if I did them all, I would get them to "good enough" as a group, and one or more would still be needing work. Doing them one at a time would let me pay each one its needed attention. And I know I can use your 30v charger for them, but was wondering how to give the batteries an 8v load. My thought after I sent the original message was to get some 12v incandescent RV light bulbs and use those for a load (they would work as a load but just be dimmer than at 12v). Do you think this would be the most comprehensive approach, or am I overthinking it and that "good enough" is fine for this application?
I don't think I can stomach that nice programmable load unit price for my few batteries. And driving the cart until it dies is a little problematic since I'd have to push it back to its corral... ;-) Unless there's a way to create a 48v load???
@@knurlgnar24 I had a thought about how to load only ONE of the 8v batteries. Could I just hook up one 12v car headlamp? They are 55 watt max and at 8v that would be 7 amps if they draw that much. What do you think?
@@knurlgnar24 I purchased this power supply, so I can deal with the batteries one at a time. I hesitate on the price of the load generator you use although I'd love to have that. How can I cobble together a recommended load for one 8v battery? How many car headlamps, for instance? And in series, or parallel?
I would "fix" dead car batteries with a dummy charger and a multimeter. When it would stay under 16v with 125a.for more than 5 seconds; it was ready to float charge 👍
An old mechanic's trick is to simply connect a battery to a dumb charger and let it 'boil' away. It worked. Not a refined approach but it was simple and most people aren't interested in wasting their time on such things when there are customers to serve. There are many approaches to this.
I have been having trouble commenting on this videos, so I am giving it another try.
Looks like this one stuck for whatever reason! TH-cam is funny when it comes to filtering comments and is often over-aggressive in filtering spam, advertising, and abusive comments.
@@knurlgnar24 The one on your 1000Ah Battery Bank Part1 is still there. It's the only video that it stuck.
th-cam.com/video/PbCA8RZqeqk/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyN3wwoQSisxFpiHTp4AaABAg
@@knurlgnar24 I really hopped for your help since I have been at this for about two months, but I think that I worked it out. It would appear that using the same process to maintain those large orange deep cycle batteries can be used to recover any FLA or FLA or AGM batteries. I am omitting the manufacturer of those batteries as it may be what has been causing me grief with deleted comments.
What I would like to convey for your videos is that you have so much more to show. From part#2 @ 24+min, the explanation to the internal resistance and capacity are for the most part left aside. How about a 3rd part video to cover these things?
I am asking after spending two summer months of working through this craziness of battery recover. I don't own a fancy electronic load like your Regol to graph a discharge curve. All that I have is a smart charger and an DMM that hook-up in series with my dumb charger.
I finally got myself a DC clamp meter to replace the one that went defective. It's a Klein Tools 400A AC/DC digital clamp meter that I bought at Home Depot in Canada for $105 CAN. I have been wanting this to measure the discharge current from the engine cranking between my cars, snowmobiles and lawn tractor. I want to find the current while cranking the engine to find an adequate discharge current to recover starting batteries.
You should link your traditional charger version. I own one of those.
What settings do you recommend for a car battery? 30v 2a for awhile?
Thanks for sharing! What do you think about reverse charging? I'm trying to recover for fun and study some agm ups batteries that are dead because they were on float charge for some year on the ups and maybe the ups charger doesn't manage the float charge properly and after 2-3 years batteries are dead. In this situation you approach can be useful? In the past, before whatching this video, the only way to let batteries accept charge was to reverse charge them, discharge and recharge with the proper polarity. One of these accepts only reverse charge even if I put 32v on it with correct polarity... another one that I "recovered" with reverse charge and after correct charge, emits an hiss from time to time under charge even if I use less current than the maximum rated initial current printed on the battery that is a FIAMM agm battery 12ah 12v.. another one was under forced charge at 22v and 0,5 amp (it is a 4.5ah 12v ups agm battery) for 8 hours a day for 5 days but still can't hold the charge.. in short, up to now no appreciable result, unfortunately... I will appreciate every advice you will give, thank you very much!
Interesting timing on this comment as I am currently doing some practical experimentation on reverse charging. There are whitepapers out there on the subject and it is absolutely legit if used properly in the right circumstances, but it has to be the RIGHT circumstances. Most UPS units overcharge the batteries and positive plate corrosion or water loss is the precipitator of failure and desulfation or reverse charging will not help. Reverse charging can improve plate activation or help the desulfation process though. It is more aggressive than the methods I typically use but I think I may have found a common use case for it hence my current testing. I think you're on to something here... BTW the 'hiss' you hear is likely due to the battery outgassing excessively. This could be due to a multitude of reasons but there likely isn't much to do about it other than add water as necessary. Sometimes an old battery is just an old battery. None of these methods are magic as you're well aware, they just allow us to make maximum use of otherwise discarded batteries.
@@knurlgnar24 Thanks for your reply! Then, can we soon expect a new reverse charging based video? 😁
Used in home medical equipment for stairlifts.
Great video, please produce more content and include your cat :)
My cat produces many things but tends to leave them in hard to find places sometimes.
@@knurlgnar24 Maybe you should dedicate a video to this topic :3
So I'm guessing that the bubbling is the conversion from Lead Sulfate back to Sulfuric Acid. At first it was chamber 1 (closest to the negative) and chamber 6 (closest to the positive) that would bubble but after several hours chamber 1 won't bubble at all. Is it chamber 1 finished desulfating or is it dead?
I am using a 12v/10a charger that has a brief 12v/50a engine start mode. I just keep switching between the 2. It's just interesting because at first only chamber 1 would bubble. Now it's the only one that doesn't.
Do you think the high frequency current pulses does a better job at desulphating ?
No
I have 2 of same battery with low capacity problems . Can i use my 28 volts printer adapter rated at 2 amps maximum to try reconditionning them ?
As battery prices in lebanon are getting very expensive .
Tnank you for the informations
Those adapters have a hiccup overcurrent protection mode, so you would have to add resistance between the battery and adapter to limit current to less than 2A. Be careful and be safe if you decide to try it!
- My battery can accept up to 14.4V @ 4.5A for 1h for so called rapid charge ~65W. Atm I'm doing a 'force charging' with 2A current for 2h. Power supply shows me 16.22V and it is like this for 45min so far. I hope this 16.22V * 2A = ~32W is something my battery can take without damaging it.
- If battery is heating up it means that energy is being wasted for electrolysis? Am I correct?
- I understand that repeating a process of charging and discharging battery restores the capacity of the battery (up to some point), right?
- I don't have such fancy discharger, so I have to think about it how to discharge it properly. What can you suggest? Is lightning bulb ok?
Update:
I've ischarged the battery with a 55W car bulb. According to my calculations it should last for 1h45min before voltage will reach 10,5V on a battery. IT ends after 15minutes.. whcih menas my old battery is at 15,6% capacity...
After discharging I've started fast charging battery with forcing 4.5A for 1h. The voltage went up to 16.5V. The battery was warm (not hot) I would say like body temperature.
what's interesting is that during this charge I was reducing a voltage to 14.4V from time to time to see how big current can be accepted for such voltage and it looks like with every test it wanted to accept more.
After 1h I've reduced the current to 2A (the voltage dropped to 16,04V). I kept testing 14.4 V Once I've found that the 14.4V can accept at least 1A I used an 'intelligent charger' (which can give max 1A) and finished battery charge.
After 1h of battery charge process it still holds 13.14V which I think is a good sign. Tomorrow I'm going to do a discharge of it to see for how long will it last this time.
Hi, I been try this process on a battery of and on for the last few months and I think I gotten some improvement. The Battery is fairly new. And I have gotten a totally dead battery to have a standing voltage of 12.9 volts if it is fully charged. However the capacity reads 200-300 amps on a load tester and the battery is a 900 amp battery. It look like I have a very weak cell next to the negative terminal. When I look into the cell I see definitely sulfaction on the plates and I read very low SG on the cell, and I don't see any bubbles. So it look like I have 5 super strong cells and a near dead cell. So if I can fix this cell I am there. So should I try to keep cycling the battery more a hope to revised the last cell? Should I try Epson cell on the last cell? Should I try to flush and fill the last cell? And I heard I can remove some of the acid solution from this cell and replace it with distill water and keep cycling it and that would help??? thank you
I don't support adding any foreign agents into a lead acid battery as I see no evidence that it actually is effective overall considering all variables, but if you want to try it it's your property and I'm not offended. That cell is likely the primary sulfated cell and it's possible its just too far gone. You can always try to continue the overcharge and cycle approach but it doesn't work for all batteries. Sulfation causes non-reversible damage unfortunately. You clearly reversed a good portion of it already. The industrial approach would be to empty the single bad cell, wash, refill with distilled water, charge the single bad cell to remove sulfation, then refill with acid and charge that single cell to reform. Then rebalance all cells. I doubt that's practical for your battery.
First of all, great video! Very helpful!
Secondly, if I were extremely impatient, can I force tremendous currents (enough to desulfate the battery rapidly but not enough to melt the connections) through the battery for short periods with breaks to stop the electrolyte from boiling to rapidly desulfate the battery?
Also do most lead-acid batteries die with lots of cycles and if they do, is it due to neglect (battery owners not recharging the battery and letting it sulfate)?
I'd say most batteries 'die' due to misuse which comes in many forms from undercharging to storage conditions to simply 'it won't hold a charge' core returns where it simply needs to be equalized and the battery is still like new condition.
As for forcing large currents through I think this can be done without much harm (not sure what 'tremendous' means but it sounds a bit above my comfort level) I don't see an advantage. High currents will cause significant heating meaning fewer amp*hours per unit time. This would actually slow down the desulfation process. Whitepapers from reputable sources (US DOE, etc) always state a steady current is to be used, and in my non-scientific testing the process seems almost directly related to AH of overcharge and is rate independent. Solid reputable data is difficult to find on this sort of topic for some reason but I too keep coming back to thinking "A higher voltage should speed up the process right? Even if for short periods of time?" Seems like it should but I haven't been able to show an effect beyond the process being current dependent. High battery temps seem to speed the process too vs a cold battery.
@@knurlgnar24 Thanks!
love your cat, your presentation style, narration, also your stuff reminds me of mine. I know your against them but could i use a noco genius on such a batt? I have a few ;) Noco is on a prime day sale, was considering getting genius 10 and genius 2 or 5 , advice other than, "this is the way" (The Mandalorian )
I have not personally tested one of the Noco Genius products so go ahead. Maybe it's a decent charger. :) Even if it would not desulphate a battery like this one that doesn't mean it isn't useful to you. I find RV power supplies/chargers to be the best all around units and they cost $150 or so.
Ooooh,,,, the beeerr.... Nice.
It's good beer. :)