On the opposite side of the timing chain on the cams theres 2 holes one for each cam to lock the cams in place to prevent the cams from moving and damaging the valves
Honda uses 200ft pounds of torque on that pulley bolt, to put some perspective on that a modern Crown Vic with the P71 police package puts out 300ft pounds and it throws that 4000# car around like a plastic F#@% doll, lol. To take mine off it required a long socket extension a jack stand to support the breaker bar extension and a 4ft cheater bar. And then I used all my strength to turn it, but it came off.
For future reference they make a weighted impact socket that makes quick work of the crank pulley bolt. My Milwaukee impact also wouldn't remove it until I picked up that socket. Zips it right off now.
Can try heating around balancer, not bolt. Next, place socket only on bolt, hold an air duster can upside down to spray the liquid through the back of the socket to freeze the bolt. Do this for a couple of cycles to shrink the bolt.
Good video, but I have a question if I want to replace the oil pan chain, do I need to remove the oil pan? Or can I just do it ones I remove the timing chain?…excuse my question is did no one hasn’t done a video in replacing the oil pan chain. Thanks 😊
Can you show HOW you actually lined up the timing chain? I'm having issues with putting everything TDC but the chain marks do not line up with the dots on the gears
So I have a 2006 model ex like this and I replaced the timing chain and put new valve seals and did valve timing as well but afterwards it sounds rough its shaking at low idle whitish smoke is coming out my tailpipe and I can not figure out what it is pcv is new also so what's the problem and it's not over heating fluids not boiling or nothing it stalls at low idle also and I just can not figure it out advice please ???
Check the EGR - don't rely on it to throw codes. Secondly, clean the intake plenum. Mine did that for a while. Idled fine sometimes but mostly idled roughly especially with the AC on. No codes. At 242K miles I did a clutch job for a worn out clutch which required removal of the plenum to access the transmission bolts. The inside of it was caked in thick oil so much so it was definitely restricting airflow. I cleaned it and it begged the question . . . how did that oil get there? Why sticking EGR valve.
I was hoping that engine would sound better after replacing the guides and chain. I was looking at one yesterday and the engine sounded pretty bad like this one. Is that just the way they are going to sound?
These engines use solid lifters on the camshaft to open the valves. This design is good and robust but they make that clacking noise at idle. Also this video had the old a/c compressor on the car and the pulley side bearing failed. In addition these cars develop an extra loud (louder then observed here) rattle at idle at high mileage. However there are 3 parts to replace when this happens, a camshaft pulley, the oil control valve and the vvti actuator.
@@justfixit9726 You don't know how much this paragraph helped me. I heard that noise from the a/c pulley area. I will look for a video on that noise and the other 3 to see if it's something that is reasonably priced and I can fix. Thank you for your time and expertise. Good fortune to you!
Watching your video ended immediately when I saw you using a big all long extension on a torque gun to get off a crank Bolt a mechanic World major amateur
There's an arrow on the top of the timing cover pointing towards the pulley. The pulley has a white dot. It's really difficult to see and to catch on camera
Your recording skills are incredible
Love the upside down shot
On the opposite side of the timing chain on the cams theres 2 holes one for each cam to lock the cams in place to prevent the cams from moving and damaging the valves
Honda uses 200ft pounds of torque on that pulley bolt, to put some perspective on that a modern Crown Vic with the P71 police package puts out 300ft pounds and it throws that 4000# car around like a plastic F#@% doll, lol. To take mine off it required a long socket extension a jack stand to support the breaker bar extension and a 4ft cheater bar. And then I used all my strength to turn it, but it came off.
For future reference they make a weighted impact socket that makes quick work of the crank pulley bolt. My Milwaukee impact also wouldn't remove it until I picked up that socket. Zips it right off now.
Ive seen them, and could not figure out what the hype was about. It was like a 3lb weight welded around a socket. Thank you for explaining!
@@justfixit9726 idk if I’m having this problem but I ran out of gas put gas and car won’t start now 2006 Honda accord!
@@TMoney-ow5hp sounds like a fuel pump issue was it
Get yourself the Lisle harmonic bolt socket!! IT WORKS and well worth the 20 bux.
Can try heating around balancer, not bolt. Next, place socket only on bolt, hold an air duster can upside down to spray the liquid through the back of the socket to freeze the bolt. Do this for a couple of cycles to shrink the bolt.
Cleary you need much longer extensions.
Great video I have one of these. What was the mileage and why did it need a new chain?
Great job. I think you forgot to lock your tensioner in place.
Lisle 19mm socket 77080. It's $17.00 on Amazon. It takes it off in 3 seconds. The crank holding tool is crap.
Three seconds is a long time. If they had something that could remove it in, oh, say two seconds, then I'd be interested. Thank you.
how did you get the chain cover off? ive broken 3 screwdrivers and 4 thin scaper knives☠️
Why did you change the chain? Aren't they supposed to last forever?
anyone else get anxious when he took the screw driver to the valve cover?
No
Great video. I wouldn't use wire brush, risk of a wire breaking off and ending up in the sump.
Great Video. Thanks.
Good video, but I have a question if I want to replace the oil pan chain, do I need to remove the oil pan? Or can I just do it ones I remove the timing chain?…excuse my question is did no one hasn’t done a video in replacing the oil pan chain. Thanks 😊
Yes without a doubt the oil pan would have to come off to change the oil pump chain.
@@justfixit9726 thank you will do 👍🏽
Can you show HOW you actually lined up the timing chain? I'm having issues with putting everything TDC but the chain marks do not line up with the dots on the gears
Sure
No
So I have a 2006 model ex like this and I replaced the timing chain and put new valve seals and did valve timing as well but afterwards it sounds rough its shaking at low idle whitish smoke is coming out my tailpipe and I can not figure out what it is pcv is new also so what's the problem and it's not over heating fluids not boiling or nothing it stalls at low idle also and I just can not figure it out advice please ???
Check the EGR - don't rely on it to throw codes. Secondly, clean the intake plenum. Mine did that for a while. Idled fine sometimes but mostly idled roughly especially with the AC on. No codes. At 242K miles I did a clutch job for a worn out clutch which required removal of the plenum to access the transmission bolts. The inside of it was caked in thick oil so much so it was definitely restricting airflow. I cleaned it and it begged the question . . . how did that oil get there? Why sticking EGR valve.
I was hoping that engine would sound better after replacing the guides and chain. I was looking at one yesterday and the engine sounded pretty bad like this one.
Is that just the way they are going to sound?
These engines use solid lifters on the camshaft to open the valves. This design is good and robust but they make that clacking noise at idle. Also this video had the old a/c compressor on the car and the pulley side bearing failed. In addition these cars develop an extra loud (louder then observed here) rattle at idle at high mileage. However there are 3 parts to replace when this happens, a camshaft pulley, the oil control valve and the vvti actuator.
@@justfixit9726 You don't know how much this paragraph helped me. I heard that noise from the a/c pulley area. I will look for a video on that noise and the other 3 to see if it's something that is reasonably priced and I can fix. Thank you for your time and expertise.
Good fortune to you!
If your using that for the intake that is .022inch it should be about .009 or .23mm NOT .559mm.
That impact would be alot more effective without that extension dampening and absorbing the impacts. Lol
A 3 foot 1/2 inch extension did not come with car. Lol
hows she doing
207,000 miles now
Heat the washer not the bolt with torch spins right out
Watching your video ended immediately when I saw you using a big all long extension on a torque gun to get off a crank Bolt a mechanic World major amateur
Way too many extensions. What is that a 3/8 socket. Come on now.
You said arrows I don't see anything no arrows
There's an arrow on the top of the timing cover pointing towards the pulley. The pulley has a white dot. It's really difficult to see and to catch on camera
What were the symptoms and reason you changed timing chain?
How many miles when you changed timing chain?