WRONG electric fans are fine you just got screwed with your fans.... Should have just went to a junk yard and pulled a FACTORY Fan set and alternator they work just fine on the NNBS and NNNBS(2007-2019) Tahoe and suburban
You make Great videos! How are you flexalite fans doing? Is the controller for it still working great? I really would like to know. I'm about to do my silverado. Thanks again for your video?👍
I have a stock 230 amp alt with 4 batteries in parallel and solar panels for 2.5 amp charge running 4 amps and a 1kw inverter. My headlights don't even flicker
2 major mistakes you made. #1 you cut a bracket that is easily unbolted. #2 you reamed out the stock alternator mount when you should have reamed out the alternator casing. Now if your on a trip and alternator craps out your stuck with a reamed out bracket that hopefully you will be able to tighten up enough on a stock alternator so you can keep on going.
This is nuts. Never seen someone go so far out of their way to demonstrate they don't know what they are doing. You have a wiring problem. If Flex-a-lite says use a 40 amp fuse it is because that is the MAX draw of the fans (actually about 35 amps) which means "when they both start at the same time". You clearly don't understand that the motors in your fans surge when they start and then go back down to about 20 amps or less draw max. If they don't there is a problem with how the fans are wired or there is an internal short somewhere, possibly in the fans. You have a direct short to ground somewhere in the system. Those fans, properly wired and operating, would work with your stock alt (providing it is in good condition) with the AC on full blast and head lights and stereo on. I can tell just by looking at your wiring job you are no electrician, you are clearly punching above your weight Jimmy. You understand just enough to convince yourself you fixed but I guarantee you the problem will be back. Not saying that to insult you, just to get you to learn how to use a volt/ohm meter and find the problem in the system. This is getting ridiculous.
why you should never install electric fans?? all new cars have elec fans, its the conventional and more efficient way to go, if you didn't wire it properly and set up the vehicle for it good enough thats on guess who
Many good points here. The day of the belt driven fan is mostly gone now, replaced by electric fans. The driving force is a slight improvement in fuel economy, though there is a price to pay for extra electronics.
Interesting that the voltage on the gauge matches my 93 C2500 Suburban (7.4) exactly, but I'm still running the stock 105A alternator and a mechanical fan. It shows over 14V when cold, but gradually drops under 14V once warm and when everything is going. You're right that the gauge on the dash is likely worthless. I use a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter that shows voltage, and it shows 14.2V at cold start and 13.6-13.8V once warm depending on how much stuff I have on. I've validated it against a voltmeter hooked to the battery terminals, and it's a very accurate gauge. Overall, I think I'll stick to the mech fan. I upgraded the 5 blade to a 9 blade from a late 90s 454, and that seemed to really give me all the extra cooling power I needed.
Those voltage readings are pretty normal. Voltage regulator in most stock type alternators are overly protective of overcharging the battery. Usually isn't a problem. However, if you run down the battery more than a little it can take hours of driving (not idling) to bring the battery all the way back to full charge. Takes some time at 14.5v or a little more to get to 100%. Even longer if 12.6-14. As long as its above 12.6 the battery charges just not very fast. Alternator has to replace all those "missing" amps and the output at low rpm is small. The factory voltage gauge is good enough but it doesn't tell the whole story. Each of those lines is 7/10ths of a volt. Turn the key to on without starting and see what it indicates. Then check the battery with a handheld volt meter. Gauge will be close enough in my experience. The stock alternators just aren't great. A good charger/desulfator hooked up to the battery occasionally is a good idea. So is frequent highway driving.
...the gains from electric fans are only really realized at highway speeds, where the forced air thru the grill should be sufficient to turn the fans off if they are properly setup. At city speeds, idle, traffic, etc the fans are there to prevent a overheating situation. Sadly most that set up e-fans do not have them thermostatically controlled, thus they are drawing power all the time, same as a clutch type fan, even when it is not needed.
Now that you have a more than capable charging system, you should take advantage and put a nice amp to that Infinity component set. Heck I'd dedicate a good sound quality 4 channel amp to the components and a subwoofer with an amp for it too. 🤷♂️ Oh the possibilities...🤔
105 amp altenator on a camaro with the huge factory electric fan. plus after market audio and amps... never had any voltage issues even at hot idle. your altenator may have been on its way out already
Attention: when Voltage drops so does current. You said the voltage with the old alternator DROPPED and the current went up and fuses started popping. Use ohms law and figure it out. If voltage drops current drops as well, and the fuses cant "start blowing" !
ohms law amps = voltage esistance. If the load pulls 10 amps at 14 volts and resistance is constant. When volts drop because you overloaded your alt system voltage drops lower than batt voltage. The load now pulls more amps from the battery than 10 amps. Fuses pop. Less volts more amps.
Good stuff, your tone of voice is better but still shouting, You oil PSI is low, critically low, after a while your rockers will start to click b/c now oil is going up the motor, either run a thicker oil OR get a new oil pump.
If you’re converting a vehicle to electric fans upgrading your electrical system is a no-brainer. The best way to do this is by using an alternator from a similar vehicle that came equipped with e-fans and then upgrade both the charge wire and ground straps. A lot of HD alternators you can buy from the internet are junk (mechman makes good stuff). Adding high draw electrical accessories to a vehicle has to be accompanied by electrical system upgrades, otherwise you create headaches at best and a fire hazard at worst
@@1RoadGarage I was able to find the site fairly easy, it might just be a cool thing to do. They are a tad pricier than some other comparable options out there and the fact that some of them require a new belt is a turn off for me personally.
I wonder how long it will take to get a replacement when it fails?? Do you have to ship the original one in for repairs or can you just order another one and then ship the old one back? What is the warranty on that anyway?
@@globalmobile017 Installed correctly here, it should last a very long time without issue. If you did have an issue with a bad alt, Mechman would take care of you for sure. He/they have been in business for quite a while and have a great rep in the car audio community.
@@ariyanadumon4549 , The smaller belt does suck but it's the only way to get the higher amperage out of those alternators. They simply install a smaller pulley which makes the alternator spin faster.
Would highly recommend a northstar battery too, excellent American made agm car batteries that alot of sound system guys use too because you can draw so much on them without draining them.
Agree 100%. The Northstar will also do better with the higher charging voltage. I run over 3,000 watts RMS from a couple of Orion XTR amplifiers, and I use 2 Northstar AGM batteries and a 300 amp alternator. Voltage stays at 14 volts and I've never had a problem with the voltage, amperage, or charging system
The heating effect and hence energy loss is proportional to current squared; thus it was a shame that only 12V was chosen as the voltage in most cars. Car electrics would have 1/4 the losses at 24V and the wiring could be much thinner. 12V was chosen because it was convenient for the lead/acid batteries in use, now we have NiMH, and Li ion, there is no such restriction.
@@TheNickmic I would just run the old stock mechanical clutch fan on something like that since it worked well for its time...... The only waste of power is if the clutch siezes and it runs constantly when not always needed U canals run a another fan with more blades too It's just easier on the vehicles electrical system overall Unless u want to go through more alternators or more expensive ones 🤔
You need a smaller pulley on your alternator. *idle rpm* Size of crank pulley divided by alternator pulley gives your ratio. Basic calculation will tell you your *idle alternator rpm* then you can look up you alternator rpm specifications and see what the output is at that rpm... ratio 3:1 = engine rpm 800 * 3:1 = 2,400 rpm at the alternator.
Mechman is a good company and produce some nice alts... But Mechman are not the best alt company out there. I prefer DC Power Inc., personally. That alt also is pretty much entry level as far as aftermarket goes and required an awful lot of fab work for a "plug and play" unit.
I bought the 370a elite about 6 months ago, working great in my 06 Silverado, I run about 5.5k rms sound system, adding a 2nd battery trey would help u out a ton too, I've got two big agms under my hood.. ces makes great alts to and there a little cheaper.. adding 1/0 wire will also open up its full potential, I suggest using tinned 1/0 ofc copper and tinned copper lugs with adhesive lined heat shrink covering all exposed copper.. and when u use the hammer crimp put the crimp on the back of the lug, the crimper crimps it into a triangular shape, the way u did it will work but it smashes the wires..
Hey 1Road, can you please let us know if you do have a electric fan system on your 2003 Suburban? If you dont, would you upgrade to it? If you do, can you provide the specs of the alternator (amps ar idle, etc)?
You keep the voltage up. Higher voltage equals less current draw. The old alternator probably sat around 13.8 hot. This new one keeps the voltage up near 14.5 hot and has 100+ more amps available at all times. He won't melt fuses anymore.
@@catch22frubert : That makes less than 2 amp difference at 25 amps though. Less than 10% difference. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html
This is common for tbi chevys so long as oil pressure at least gets up to 25 at cruising speed 2000rpm etc theese engines sometimes also have bad oil pumps from factory but i may be wrong on that but no his oil pressure is OK don't start worrying until "check gauges" comes on lol and when that happens just put 15-40 and Lucas in it and pow 30 psi
Either the sensor or the reluctor are very dirty, or one of the sensors are done. The next generation GM trucks have a similar problem. But the abs sensor is inside the wheel hub. Easy to replace, but not cheap to purchase. And I mean both abs sensor and wheel hub.
@@GamerzArena12 It can; as in you stomp on the brake pedal, and they will lock up. And that's what you don't want. The purpose for the ABS system is that you slow down, but you can steer away from a obstacle in front of you. As long as you have room to move to either lane next to you. In other words, ABS won't shortened your braking distance, but it helps you maneuver yourself from slamming into the car in front of you.
Great thorough work, Jimmy! Idk if I'll ever attempt this electric fan setup, I think I'll stick to the caveman ways of the stock fan lol Have you considered adding a deep transmission pan and possibly a larger transmission cooler to the 95? Might make for a fun short series
i needed me a channel for everything i swapped on my 95k1500 front sas swap from 85k10, trans swap, tcase swap, rear axle swap for 14 bolt. man wish ida been as smart as this guy to post it all up
I was just about to buy everything in a couple days to do the same thing, glad you did a update on what was happening and what size alternator you went with so I can do the same to my 2004 suburban, because I live in AZ and I really need this upgrade now with the summer already here.
Mechman alternators also sell an adjustable voltage regulator you can adjust right in the cabin. I'd say 250 amps is more than enough for any regular application, unless you run a big stereo system or something.
Great video as always! I intend to install that very alternator. I wanted to point out your oil pressure seemed really low...ie..definitely under 20 in video...I have a diesel (same year) and it runs about 40 at hot idle--slightly higher than 45 with ac on and maybe 50-55 cold start. I use 15-40 Rotella---but I've had GM gas engines same as yours and idle always seemed at least 30'sh. I had an 07 escalade at one point with AFM lifters that went bad at around 80k...clearly not the case with yours. Anyway thought I'd mention.
I installed #282 fans in my Silverado. Also, a 170 amp alt from someone here on TH-cam (Alternator Man) It was a drop in application. No adjustments. Easy deal. I adjusted my fans to come on AFTER my thermostat opens. So, they are not running all the time. Only when needed I’ve had nary a problem Zip, zero, etc
@Aaron Wilson Flexalite 282 fits the 99-04 GM trucks and SUVs with a 34" radiator only 4.8-6.0 V8. So most 1500s. 2500 and above, or the 8.1 V8 may not apply for this fan. That alternator you have to look that up above.
I want tot do this same e-fan upgrade to my 95 Tahoe. However, a $600 alternator is just too much $$. Is there an alternator that would work for $300 or less?? Thank you for your excellent vids. Keep it up brother! :)
Sure. You can use the high output stock alternator. Might need a different belt or pulley. Go to a parts store that has staff that know what they're doing and you should be able to figure it out. Pretty sure 140amp alternator is an option for that truck.
Oh yeah nice and shiny... That look of approval changes when she sees the $500+ charge in the CC... lol May want to look in to the 99+ charging setup... The alt is only triggered to charge for first 5-10 minutes on cold startup and then drop off when battery is full. With my 06 Silverado it is normal to see it drop off from 14+ to mid 12s (the gauge is a little off, actual measurement shows it tops out around 14.1 and then drops down to 13.2-13.5).
Did you end up having to do a Big 3 upgrade? EDIT: UGH. Dude, nice exposed wires on your new connection... my OCD is going nuts lol.. big fat heat shrink ftw
@@1RoadGarage good man. Was gonna say on crown vic forums I'm on, people were getting alternators about as powerful as yours, or more, and they were all like BIG 3 IS NOW REQUIRED Also see my post edit
Some great ideas here. I have a 92 Dodge diesel that needs some help getting air to the AC condenser in the summer. I've looked into electric clutches, electric fans to replace the belt drive fan, and pusher fans. Im leaning more toward pusher fans for redundancy. If they fail ill still have the factory fan and if it fails ill have the pusher fans.
The extra wire that you hooked up to a “switched source”, did you mean a source that switches on when the vehicle is turned on? how did you attach that wire to your fuse box? Thanks for the great video!!! I’m gonna do this and the electric fans to my 96 Chevy G20!!!
Thanks for the excellent video! You inspired me to upgrade the charging system on the 95 gmc2500 suburban which I just got and was converted to dual electric fans by the previous owner
@@pillormark By reducing the pulley size to 2" or 1-7/8" your alternator will start producing power sooner and produce more power cruising down the boulevard or on the highway.
@@jamesm568 so, to achieve similar results utilizing electric fans, you located a pully and bearing that would fit the v drive system with a reduced diameter and achieved more amps and volts to support the demand of the additional items drawing on the system? Is this what you are telling me? Can you provide part numbers and product providers so i can replicate this?
14.66 Vdc is when battery electrolyte commences to boil. Constant +14.66Vdc or above is not good. It is best to ask Mechman and your car battery manufacturer about this.
Wonder how this alternator would work for my cabin in the mountains that is off-grid as a power source from the stream that fast-moving on the property
@@1RoadGarage Hey from your other vid you say you're in Vegas. I used to live there also. Went to Clark High 75'. My brother has a sign and sticker shop over in the Arts District on Charleston & Commerce if you need anything. Keep up the great Vids!
I have to turn the channel because you constantly are yelling. It's both unnatural and offensive. Please go for body work or meds to modify your anxiety. Overly amped body at idle. God is good: please purchase quiet equipment and vehicles so you can fix your body.
Been struggling with my voltage too.. got a 160amp alternator still not working should've watch this video before spending money on that one .... buying this alternator includes the adaptor to the harness or do I have to request it?????
I have a 2008 Silverado 5.3 crew cab lt all electric. And i have the same problem when i turn the ac to the max and the truck is in a stop light the truck begin to fail making a idle and the revolutions goes down and up. But when i set the ac fan to the minimun the truck get stable again.
Hmmmmmm i don't want to disappoint you but the way you handled it is waist of money, total overkill I had 2007 bmw x5 with stock electric fan but the alternator was only 105 amp rated (i know because i had to change it)and it worked no problem, i even went camping in death valley with no problem what so ever, i was idling there in 105F heat for 4 days like 4-5 hours a day to charge the battery an run the ac and temperature never exited 211F now i have 2016 bmw x5 diesel and it has dual fans and alternator is still 105 amp and no problem even when i tow 22 foot maxium boat all you had to do is to change the alternator pulley to a smaller one so it spins faster also pwm you are using is garbage because your fans should have soft start and speed control that eliminates power problems keep in mind that all cars that have stock electric fans do not have monster alternators yet they work fine under any load at any ambient temperature
So if I am driving with both my high and low beams (yes I can), both my blowers, my radio blasting, honking my horn, hitting my brakes with my trailer, and domelight on, and dual electric fans at 70 amps, I will be good to go?
Hole you go back and install marine grade heat shrink tubing on ALL of the crimp connectors. This will prevent moisture and other contaminants from getting into the wire/connector and causing corrosion over time.
Will it not blow you fuse sir Jimmy... Will it not cause fire to melt your electrical components? Whats the result does it work good in your car sir Jim. Pls advise joey yu Baguio City Phil's
Can any one help me out trying to figure out what fuse he used to hook up the harness? I would like to make the jump but pointless if I can’t get it working properly. It’s going in a 20001 s10 blazer
i just install a mechman alternator to my 2003 chevy trailblazer. the reason is because i have a flex a lite fan and a amplifier. i have never experience fuse burning or melting for my fan like you. but i did experience voltage drop. ever since i put the mechman alternator my voltage stays in the middle and it doesn't drop like it used to. i also did the big 3 upgrade when i install the alternator.
Is there out a Cadillac alternator compatible with this trucks? I know those alternators produce to much amps, and maybe being both sons of the same father could be possible...
Mechman makes an amazing product and those guys are awesome to deal with. Pricey, but worth it. There’s a reason why guys that have serious competition electronics of all kinds trust mechman.
Chevy is a known issue with the rear bearing who quick working and squeak all the time and of course that produce resistance and don’t allow to spin and avoid to produce the correct current, maybe this company upgrade the bearing and to keep the alternator cool sound almost impossible due vortec is a real hot engine.
Great job on the video again you are by far one of the best and honest TH-cam video providers. Anyone who can admits when they don't know something when they are trying something and that when finances are a situation. Is a true testament to a someone he wants to help others But I really like you start with the basics you try to fix it within a budget and you want to upgrade your vehicle's. I agree a quality high output alternator does the trick. What you will have to watch is your battery taking the high amount of charge into it. I usually upgrade my with serviceable batteries so I can watch the fluid. I always recommend to anybody with vehicles 15 years change your battery and alternator cables to ground and starter. I personally use heat shrink or brush on electrical protector near my lugs. And dielectric grease at the contact points. I like the upgrade on your electric fans I think you should be protecting those wires with a wire loom and relocating the fuse location to I colder area I would also suggest a tip. If people are attempting alternator upgrades. And are limited in finance check the auto wreckers for wrecked ex police fire or ambulance units they all have upgraded high output alternators and starters. Yes they are used but they can be tested or rebuilt at a cost savings Great video and the most important it was family / wife approved
Also that bigger badder alternator is bleeding off way more kinetic energy off your engine. Id be interested to see a before and after on a dyno with the clutchfan and the new alternator.
You just needed to add a second battery in parallel so alt would charge them at cruising speed and while stopped the batteries would pick up the slack from the alt
@Mr.RightNow. while it’s true that the extra batteries would supplement the lack of charging voltage from the alternator in idle, that would not help the alternator or reduce the load on it. The stress on the rectifier of pulling a greater load on it than it is capable of delivering will damage it. The only way he could have “survived” with the 140 amp alternator is if he would put the trans in neutral or park and kept the idle up to increase rectifier output.
Lead acid batteries live longer if kept close to a full charge. The amount of time spent below full charge is what degrades them. 12.6 volts or a little higher is what they like. If I see 13.19 I'm a very happy camper.
@@1RoadGarage he was feeling passionate. Lots of videos along the way to the solution. I may have gotten passionate too. I also make videos. I'm usually chill like Jimmy, but no one is that simple.
at least explain the basic fundamentals of how the alternator provides power,, it only produces what is being pulled from it ,, the alternator does not provide a constant amount of amperage. thoose alernators cost around 400-500 dollars
electrical fans work fine on the factory NNBS and NNNBS they have beefy 150 -185amp MY factory High Voltage to 12V+ DC is 185amps or 2.3KW ( FULL OUTPUT AVAILABLE anytime) Tahoe Hybrid NNBS.. if you want to talk about alternator my is 120KW 3 Phase 330vAC Now thats an alternator ( more like the generator and starter LOL!) I can power small neighborhood with that
My 11yo daughter like to work on my '94 suburban with me. She likes shiny new parts as well. She painted the transmission we swapped in last year in midnight-sparkle blue.
It does. However in the test at 12:40 in the video he had everything on, in which is drawing apps from the total at idle/198 amps. He had 95.2 amps so it would be safe to say that he was probably pulling about 102.8 amps at idle leaving him with 95.2 amps at idle. When manufacturers test the alternators they're normally at 0 load. Even with everything off, if he installed it into the vehicle he would only see about a 150 amps even though it made a 198 amps. This is because the vehicle itself pulls at least 30 or 40 amps to operate. I hope this helps in some way. It would be nice if he did a test with everything off and at idle.
I also forgot to mention the extra amperage is what's charging the battery and if you have too many amps it can fry the battery. It's like charging a battery on high for too long. They prefer a trickle charge. This is why most alternators are now computerized.
@@robbyota5598 This is not how the electrical system or alternators work. You never saw 198 amps on the meter, because the truck was never pulling 198 amps. The alternator only puts out what is demanded of it, up to a maximum of 198 amps at idle and 258 amps at 2000 engine rpm. Just because it is capable of delivering 200 amps, doesn't mean that it always puts out that power. It only puts out what it needs to. Having a better alternator with more available amperage will not fry a battery, because it isn't putting out max amps 24/7 and the voltage is regulated to a safe range.
@corey Babcock 13.5 - 14.7 is Considered acceptable on a 12v lead acid car battery. 12v AMG and Deep cycle batteries do not like to be charged at that voltage.
WRONG electric fans are fine you just got screwed with your fans.... Should have just went to a junk yard and pulled a FACTORY Fan set and alternator
they work just fine on the NNBS and NNNBS(2007-2019) Tahoe and suburban
You can get these alts colored for $25 too, which is a nice touch for being a little more expensive!
Nice powerful alt! Thanks Jimmy.
👍
You make Great videos! How are you flexalite fans doing? Is the controller for it still working great? I really would like to know. I'm about to do my silverado. Thanks again for your video?👍
Have you broiled out your radiator to have it at maximum performance.
Is this a upgrade to the 140A PowerMaster alternator?
Great choice of alternator! Mechman is the best!! It's all i run. Good video.
omg Meade916 is in the house, i've been trying to call numerous times, need ya help!
Meanwhile people with Sound systems
*Quad 250 Amp Alternators*
They're basically have truck half mobile generator.
my SUV has a 60kw generator 330volts @ 185AMPS gotta power the motors
Some audio guys use 4 or 5 alternators with 370amps & the alternator alone will take most of the engine power when on full load.
I have a stock 230 amp alt with 4 batteries in parallel and solar panels for 2.5 amp charge running 4 amps and a 1kw inverter. My headlights don't even flicker
2 major mistakes you made. #1 you cut a bracket that is easily unbolted. #2 you reamed out the stock alternator mount when you should have reamed out the alternator casing. Now if your on a trip and alternator craps out your stuck with a reamed out bracket that hopefully you will be able to tighten up enough on a stock alternator so you can keep on going.
This is nuts. Never seen someone go so far out of their way to demonstrate they don't know what they are doing. You have a wiring problem. If Flex-a-lite says use a 40 amp fuse it is because that is the MAX draw of the fans (actually about 35 amps) which means "when they both start at the same time". You clearly don't understand that the motors in your fans surge when they start and then go back down to about 20 amps or less draw max. If they don't there is a problem with how the fans are wired or there is an internal short somewhere, possibly in the fans. You have a direct short to ground somewhere in the system.
Those fans, properly wired and operating, would work with your stock alt (providing it is in good condition) with the AC on full blast and head lights and stereo on.
I can tell just by looking at your wiring job you are no electrician, you are clearly punching above your weight Jimmy. You understand just enough to convince yourself you fixed but I guarantee you the problem will be back. Not saying that to insult you, just to get you to learn how to use a volt/ohm meter and find the problem in the system. This is getting ridiculous.
why you should never install electric fans?? all new cars have elec fans, its the conventional and more efficient way to go, if you didn't
wire it properly and set up the vehicle for it good enough thats on guess who
Many good points here. The day of the belt driven fan is mostly gone now, replaced by electric fans. The driving force is a slight improvement in fuel economy, though there is a price to pay for extra electronics.
very little fuel economy ..but much more risk of cooling failure compared to solid belt driven fan blade
Interesting that the voltage on the gauge matches my 93 C2500 Suburban (7.4) exactly, but I'm still running the stock 105A alternator and a mechanical fan. It shows over 14V when cold, but gradually drops under 14V once warm and when everything is going. You're right that the gauge on the dash is likely worthless. I use a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter that shows voltage, and it shows 14.2V at cold start and 13.6-13.8V once warm depending on how much stuff I have on. I've validated it against a voltmeter hooked to the battery terminals, and it's a very accurate gauge.
Overall, I think I'll stick to the mech fan. I upgraded the 5 blade to a 9 blade from a late 90s 454, and that seemed to really give me all the extra cooling power I needed.
Those voltage readings are pretty normal. Voltage regulator in most stock type alternators are overly protective of overcharging the battery. Usually isn't a problem. However, if you run down the battery more than a little it can take hours of driving (not idling) to bring the battery all the way back to full charge. Takes some time at 14.5v or a little more to get to 100%. Even longer if 12.6-14. As long as its above 12.6 the battery charges just not very fast. Alternator has to replace all those "missing" amps and the output at low rpm is small. The factory voltage gauge is good enough but it doesn't tell the whole story. Each of those lines is 7/10ths of a volt. Turn the key to on without starting and see what it indicates. Then check the battery with a handheld volt meter. Gauge will be close enough in my experience. The stock alternators just aren't great. A good charger/desulfator hooked up to the battery occasionally is a good idea. So is frequent highway driving.
Holy crap still on the electrical system!!!
Wonder if you lost enough power to defeat the purpose of using the fans to save power
...the gains from electric fans are only really realized at highway speeds, where the forced air thru the grill should be sufficient to turn the fans off if they are properly setup. At city speeds, idle, traffic, etc the fans are there to prevent a overheating situation.
Sadly most that set up e-fans do not have them thermostatically controlled, thus they are drawing power all the time, same as a clutch type fan, even when it is not needed.
Now that you have a more than capable charging system, you should take advantage and put a nice amp to that Infinity component set. Heck I'd dedicate a good sound quality 4 channel amp to the components and a subwoofer with an amp for it too. 🤷♂️ Oh the possibilities...🤔
105 amp altenator on a camaro with the huge factory electric fan. plus after market audio and amps... never had any voltage issues even at hot idle. your altenator may have been on its way out already
Attention: when Voltage drops so does current. You said the voltage with the old alternator DROPPED and the current went up and fuses started popping. Use ohms law and figure it out. If voltage drops current drops as well, and the fuses cant "start blowing" !
ohms law amps = voltage
esistance. If the load pulls 10 amps at 14 volts and resistance is constant. When volts drop because you overloaded your alt system voltage drops lower than batt voltage. The load now pulls more amps from the battery than 10 amps. Fuses pop. Less volts more amps.
Good stuff, your tone of voice is better but still shouting,
You oil PSI is low, critically low, after a while your rockers will start to click b/c now oil is going up the motor, either run a thicker oil OR get a new oil pump.
Many EXCELLENT points covered in your rwo videos. Thank you so much for this information.
If you’re converting a vehicle to electric fans upgrading your electrical system is a no-brainer. The best way to do this is by using an alternator from a similar vehicle that came equipped with e-fans and then upgrade both the charge wire and ground straps. A lot of HD alternators you can buy from the internet are junk (mechman makes good stuff). Adding high draw electrical accessories to a vehicle has to be accompanied by electrical system upgrades, otherwise you create headaches at best and a fire hazard at worst
I have a 250 amp alternator but it’s not from mechman , the company name is aan global” in California
Upgrade all your grounds they’re horrible in these trucks the blue rope ones trust me you’ll see a difference 👍
You should have linked the alternator my man.
I may still do it...
@@1RoadGarage I was able to find the site fairly easy, it might just be a cool thing to do. They are a tad pricier than some other comparable options out there and the fact that some of them require a new belt is a turn off for me personally.
I wonder how long it will take to get a replacement when it fails?? Do you have to ship the original one in for repairs or can you just order another one and then ship the old one back? What is the warranty on that anyway?
@@globalmobile017 Installed correctly here, it should last a very long time without issue. If you did have an issue with a bad alt, Mechman would take care of you for sure. He/they have been in business for quite a while and have a great rep in the car audio community.
@@ariyanadumon4549 , The smaller belt does suck but it's the only way to get the higher amperage out of those alternators. They simply install a smaller pulley which makes the alternator spin faster.
Would highly recommend a northstar battery too, excellent American made agm car batteries that alot of sound system guys use too because you can draw so much on them without draining them.
Agree 100%. The Northstar will also do better with the higher charging voltage. I run over 3,000 watts RMS from a couple of Orion XTR amplifiers, and I use 2 Northstar AGM batteries and a 300 amp alternator. Voltage stays at 14 volts and I've never had a problem with the voltage, amperage, or charging system
The heating effect and hence energy loss is proportional to current squared; thus it was a shame that only 12V was chosen as the voltage in most cars. Car electrics would have 1/4 the losses at 24V and the wiring could be much thinner.
12V was chosen because it was convenient for the lead/acid batteries in use, now we have NiMH, and Li ion, there is no such restriction.
Jimmy do you still have the truck, and if so what's your thoughts on it now? I'm planning do this conversion
14.9v is a bit too high. It will shorten the life of the battery.
14.5 is what I like to see. Yeah, 14.9 is pushing your luck.
When installing electric fan costs over 1000 dollars
I have a 04 Chevy Tahoe and added fans from a 05 Tahoe and had the computer programed to operate them. I have no problem with the changes !
@@TheNickmic I would just run the old stock mechanical clutch fan on something like that since it worked well for its time......
The only waste of power is if the clutch siezes and it runs constantly when not always needed
U canals run a another fan with more blades too
It's just easier on the vehicles electrical system overall
Unless u want to go through more alternators or more expensive ones 🤔
For the love that is all holy. Paint that brake booster!
Oh Crap, here we go again.
lol
Lol
You need a smaller pulley on your alternator. *idle rpm* Size of crank pulley divided by alternator pulley gives your ratio. Basic calculation will tell you your *idle alternator rpm* then you can look up you alternator rpm specifications and see what the output is at that rpm... ratio 3:1 = engine rpm 800 * 3:1 = 2,400 rpm at the alternator.
Mechman is a good company and produce some nice alts... But Mechman are not the best alt company out there. I prefer DC Power Inc., personally. That alt also is pretty much entry level as far as aftermarket goes and required an awful lot of fab work for a "plug and play" unit.
Exactly....DC Power, US Alternators, lots of better options than mechman. I went with a DC Power 300XPS....runs circles around that mechman.
I bought the 370a elite about 6 months ago, working great in my 06 Silverado, I run about 5.5k rms sound system, adding a 2nd battery trey would help u out a ton too, I've got two big agms under my hood.. ces makes great alts to and there a little cheaper.. adding 1/0 wire will also open up its full potential, I suggest using tinned 1/0 ofc copper and tinned copper lugs with adhesive lined heat shrink covering all exposed copper.. and when u use the hammer crimp put the crimp on the back of the lug, the crimper crimps it into a triangular shape, the way u did it will work but it smashes the wires..
The smaller pulley on these help a lot, and these h/o alts a made to handle big loads and work great in warm conditions
Hey 1Road, can you please let us know if you do have a electric fan system on your 2003 Suburban? If you dont, would you upgrade to it? If you do, can you provide the specs of the alternator (amps ar idle, etc)?
So what are you gonna try next when your fuses blow/melt?
Fuses blow because they're using too much amperage, so you just supply more amps?
You keep the voltage up. Higher voltage equals less current draw. The old alternator probably sat around 13.8 hot. This new one keeps the voltage up near 14.5 hot and has 100+ more amps available at all times. He won't melt fuses anymore.
@@catch22frubert : That makes less than 2 amp difference at 25 amps though. Less than 10% difference.
www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html
Mechman is one of the best! Being in the car audio world you made a great choice. Irraggi and CES are great options as well. Love the vids!
Let's talk about your oil pressure.
normal on tbi chevys, only require somthing like 5 psi per 500rpm, once hot my 95 tahoe sits at 8-9 psi at idle, done that for the last 60k miles
My '98 Suburban has 214k miles. Hot idle sits at the 1/4 mark, above 1,000 RPM it's about center.
This is common for tbi chevys so long as oil pressure at least gets up to 25 at cruising speed 2000rpm etc theese engines sometimes also have bad oil pumps from factory but i may be wrong on that but no his oil pressure is OK don't start worrying until "check gauges" comes on lol and when that happens just put 15-40 and Lucas in it and pow 30 psi
I noticed it too...way way too low at idle...should be 30'sh on guage for a healthy engine..
chicagomike6666 not really. This is a Chevy they have real guages not dummy gauges like all other makes. If you rev it goes up live feed.
Hey 1 road
Why your ABS light is always lighten up
Make a video on that
ABS troubleshooting is tricky, especially when you don't have the expensive equipment, and that is something you can't run to AutoZone and do.
Either the sensor or the reluctor are very dirty, or one of the sensors are done. The next generation GM trucks have a similar problem. But the abs sensor is inside the wheel hub. Easy to replace, but not cheap to purchase. And I mean both abs sensor and wheel hub.
James M thanks buddy for the information 💥
high life 1320 so does it affect your breaking performance and safety???
@@GamerzArena12 It can; as in you stomp on the brake pedal, and they will lock up. And that's what you don't want. The purpose for the ABS system is that you slow down, but you can steer away from a obstacle in front of you. As long as you have room to move to either lane next to you. In other words, ABS won't shortened your braking distance, but it helps you maneuver yourself from slamming into the car in front of you.
Great thorough work, Jimmy! Idk if I'll ever attempt this electric fan setup, I think I'll stick to the caveman ways of the stock fan lol Have you considered adding a deep transmission pan and possibly a larger transmission cooler to the 95? Might make for a fun short series
i needed me a channel for everything i swapped on my 95k1500
front sas swap from 85k10, trans swap, tcase swap, rear axle swap for 14 bolt. man wish ida been as smart as this guy to post it all up
You should!! People love OBS trucks!!
get an aftermarket voltmeter when your working with an high output alternator you can keep a better eye on your voltage
I was just about to buy everything in a couple days to do the same thing, glad you did a update on what was happening and what size alternator you went with so I can do the same to my 2004 suburban, because I live in AZ and I really need this upgrade now with the summer already here.
Mechman alternators also sell an adjustable voltage regulator you can adjust right in the cabin. I'd say 250 amps is more than enough for any regular application, unless you run a big stereo system or something.
Great video as always! I intend to install that very alternator. I wanted to point out your oil pressure seemed really low...ie..definitely under 20 in video...I have a diesel (same year) and it runs about 40 at hot idle--slightly higher than 45 with ac on and maybe 50-55 cold start. I use 15-40 Rotella---but I've had GM gas engines same as yours and idle always seemed at least 30'sh. I had an 07 escalade at one point with AFM lifters that went bad at around 80k...clearly not the case with yours. Anyway thought I'd mention.
I installed #282 fans in my Silverado.
Also, a 170 amp alt from someone here on TH-cam (Alternator Man)
It was a drop in application. No adjustments. Easy deal.
I adjusted my fans to come on AFTER my thermostat opens. So, they are not running all the time. Only when needed
I’ve had nary a problem
Zip, zero, etc
@Aaron Wilson Flexalite 282 fits the 99-04 GM trucks and SUVs with a 34" radiator only 4.8-6.0 V8. So most 1500s. 2500 and above, or the 8.1 V8 may not apply for this fan. That alternator you have to look that up above.
I want tot do this same e-fan upgrade to my 95 Tahoe. However, a $600 alternator is just too much $$. Is there an alternator that would work for $300 or less?? Thank you for your excellent vids. Keep it up brother! :)
Sure. You can use the high output stock alternator. Might need a different belt or pulley. Go to a parts store that has staff that know what they're doing and you should be able to figure it out. Pretty sure 140amp alternator is an option for that truck.
Oh yeah nice and shiny... That look of approval changes when she sees the $500+ charge in the CC... lol
May want to look in to the 99+ charging setup... The alt is only triggered to charge for first 5-10 minutes on cold startup and then drop off when battery is full. With my 06 Silverado it is normal to see it drop off from 14+ to mid 12s (the gauge is a little off, actual measurement shows it tops out around 14.1 and then drops down to 13.2-13.5).
Did you end up having to do a Big 3 upgrade?
EDIT: UGH. Dude, nice exposed wires on your new connection... my OCD is going nuts lol.. big fat heat shrink ftw
Did that a while ago. Yes, I think it IS worth it.
@@1RoadGarage good man. Was gonna say on crown vic forums I'm on, people were getting alternators about as powerful as yours, or more, and they were all like BIG 3 IS NOW REQUIRED
Also see my post edit
Jimmy make sure you are not cooking your battery.
Some great ideas here. I have a 92 Dodge diesel that needs some help getting air to the AC condenser in the summer. I've looked into electric clutches, electric fans to replace the belt drive fan, and pusher fans. Im leaning more toward pusher fans for redundancy. If they fail ill still have the factory fan and if it fails ill have the pusher fans.
The extra wire that you hooked up to a “switched source”, did you mean a source that switches on when the vehicle is turned on? how did you attach that wire to your fuse box? Thanks for the great video!!! I’m gonna do this and the electric fans to my 96 Chevy G20!!!
Great vid. So many people need to watch this
Thanks for the excellent video! You inspired me to upgrade the charging system on the 95 gmc2500 suburban which I just got and was converted to dual electric fans by the previous owner
I just change the pulley on the alternator and my charging problem was solved.
Tell me, more rotation = more amps?
@@pillormark Just solves the low idle problem.
@@jamesm568 was it bearing related? Too much restriction on rotation? Did you use a different SIZE pully? Smaller = more spin = more amps?
@@pillormark By reducing the pulley size to 2" or 1-7/8" your alternator will start producing power sooner and produce more power cruising down the boulevard or on the highway.
@@jamesm568 so, to achieve similar results utilizing electric fans, you located a pully and bearing that would fit the v drive system with a reduced diameter and achieved more amps and volts to support the demand of the additional items drawing on the system? Is this what you are telling me? Can you provide part numbers and product providers so i can replicate this?
14.66 Vdc is when battery electrolyte commences to boil. Constant +14.66Vdc or above is not good. It is best to ask Mechman and your car battery manufacturer about this.
Hey Jimmy what 12 volt switched source did you tap into in your fuse panel
Wonder how this alternator would work for my cabin in the mountains that is off-grid as a power source from the stream that fast-moving on the property
Wish you would have showed detail of connecting wire to the fusebox. That is the mystery here.
That'll be another video!
@@1RoadGarage Hey from your other vid you say you're in Vegas. I used to live there also. Went to Clark High 75'. My brother has a sign and sticker shop over in the Arts District on Charleston & Commerce if you need anything. Keep up the great Vids!
Nice video electricity is not my thing and you make me understand clearly so ty and keep it up
I have to turn the channel because you constantly are yelling. It's both unnatural and offensive. Please go for body work or meds to modify your anxiety. Overly amped body at idle. God is good: please purchase quiet equipment and vehicles so you can fix your body.
Been struggling with my voltage too.. got a 160amp alternator still not working should've watch this video before spending money on that one .... buying this alternator includes the adaptor to the harness or do I have to request it?????
I have a 2008 Silverado 5.3 crew cab lt all electric. And i have the same problem when i turn the ac to the max and the truck is in a stop light the truck begin to fail making a idle and the revolutions goes down and up. But when i set the ac fan to the minimun the truck get stable again.
Hmmmmmm i don't want to disappoint you but the way you handled it is waist of money, total overkill
I had 2007 bmw x5 with stock electric fan but the alternator was only 105 amp rated (i know because i had to change it)and it worked no problem, i even went camping in death valley with no problem what so ever, i was idling there in 105F heat for 4 days like 4-5 hours a day to charge the battery an run the ac and temperature never exited 211F
now i have 2016 bmw x5 diesel and it has dual fans and alternator is still 105 amp and no problem even when i tow 22 foot maxium boat
all you had to do is to change the alternator pulley to a smaller one so it spins faster
also pwm you are using is garbage because your fans should have soft start and speed control that eliminates power problems
keep in mind that all cars that have stock electric fans do not have monster alternators yet they work fine under any load at any ambient temperature
So if I am driving with both my high and low beams (yes I can), both my blowers, my radio blasting, honking my horn, hitting my brakes with my trailer, and domelight on, and dual electric fans at 70 amps, I will be good to go?
600-650 RPM is IDLE on these V8's
Hole you go back and install marine grade heat shrink tubing on ALL of the crimp connectors. This will prevent moisture and other contaminants from getting into the wire/connector and causing corrosion over time.
NICE 2 know about the source, LOL, sunglasses INSIDE, but none OUTSIDE LOL, Jimmy you have a pretty daughter !
Will it not blow you fuse sir Jimmy... Will it not cause fire to melt your electrical components? Whats the result does it work good in your car sir Jim. Pls advise joey yu Baguio City Phil's
Can any one help me out trying to figure out what fuse he used to hook up the harness? I would like to make the jump but pointless if I can’t get it working properly. It’s going in a 20001 s10 blazer
✌😎🖎
WE "ALTERNATOR"
IS JIMMY¡¡
CONGRATULATIONS.
-MEXICOCITY-
i just install a mechman alternator to my 2003 chevy trailblazer. the reason is because i have a flex a lite fan and a amplifier. i have never experience fuse burning or melting for my fan like you. but i did experience voltage drop. ever since i put the mechman alternator my voltage stays in the middle and it doesn't drop like it used to. i also did the big 3 upgrade when i install the alternator.
How did u add the ground wire to the alternator casing
The mechman alternators come with a power and ground connection.
Is there out a Cadillac alternator compatible with this trucks? I know those alternators produce to much amps, and maybe being both sons of the same father could be possible...
Mechman makes an amazing product and those guys are awesome to deal with. Pricey, but worth it. There’s a reason why guys that have serious competition electronics of all kinds trust mechman.
Chevy is a known issue with the rear bearing who quick working and squeak all the time and of course that produce resistance and don’t allow to spin and avoid to produce the correct current, maybe this company upgrade the bearing and to keep the alternator cool sound almost impossible due vortec is a real hot engine.
Great job on the video again you are by far one of the best and honest TH-cam video providers. Anyone who can admits when they don't know something when they are trying something and that when finances are a situation. Is a true testament to a someone he wants to help others
But I really like you start with the basics you try to fix it within a budget and you want to upgrade your vehicle's.
I agree a quality high output alternator does the trick. What you will have to watch is your battery taking the high amount of charge into it. I usually upgrade my with serviceable batteries so I can watch the fluid.
I always recommend to anybody with vehicles 15 years change your battery and alternator cables to ground and starter.
I personally use heat shrink or brush on electrical protector near my lugs. And dielectric grease at the contact points.
I like the upgrade on your electric fans I think you should be protecting those wires with a wire loom and relocating the fuse location to I colder area
I would also suggest a tip. If people are attempting alternator upgrades. And are limited in finance check the auto wreckers for wrecked ex police fire or ambulance units they all have upgraded high output alternators and starters. Yes they are used but they can be tested or rebuilt at a cost savings
Great video and the most important it was family / wife approved
Also that bigger badder alternator is bleeding off way more kinetic energy off your engine. Id be interested to see a before and after on a dyno with the clutchfan and the new alternator.
Did you have to replace the serpentine belt? I’m in the same boat running a 2k sound system on a 91 Chevy
You just needed to add a second battery in parallel so alt would charge them at cruising speed and while stopped the batteries would pick up the slack from the alt
@Mr.RightNow. while it’s true that the extra batteries would supplement the lack of charging voltage from the alternator in idle, that would not help the alternator or reduce the load on it. The stress on the rectifier of pulling a greater load on it than it is capable of delivering will damage it. The only way he could have “survived” with the 140 amp alternator is if he would put the trans in neutral or park and kept the idle up to increase rectifier output.
What size belt do you have ?? Can you pleae reply asap im doing the same alternator but the belt is a pain in the ass to get!! Pls respond!!!
Where did you tie in your harness for the ignition run wire? Got a mechman 370 amp going in a 1996 tahoe.
Good idea. But does it decrease the battery life or not ? I hope you could give the accurate answer.
Lead acid batteries live longer if kept close to a full charge. The amount of time spent below full charge is what degrades them. 12.6 volts or a little higher is what they like. If I see 13.19 I'm a very happy camper.
Too much coffee!! I want the old Jimmy back.
I am who I am. Take it or leave it.
Jimmy's videos don't waste yr time; fully packed. Thumbs up
@@1RoadGarage he was feeling passionate. Lots of videos along the way to the solution. I may have gotten passionate too. I also make videos. I'm usually chill like Jimmy, but no one is that simple.
????? i need to do this for my truck does any no were i can get everything for cheap and effective snug fit ????? 34inch rad
at least explain the basic fundamentals of how the alternator provides power,, it only produces what is being pulled from it ,, the alternator does not provide a constant amount of amperage. thoose alernators cost around 400-500 dollars
That is correct, the alt is only going to produce what is being requested. I paid $399 for the alt.
Will this alternator work in my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7?
not sure if youve done a video on it but upgrading the flimsy factory grounds helps relieve a lot of stress on the system as well.
electrical fans work fine on the factory NNBS and NNNBS they have beefy 150 -185amp
MY factory High Voltage to 12V+ DC is 185amps or 2.3KW ( FULL OUTPUT AVAILABLE anytime) Tahoe Hybrid NNBS..
if you want to talk about alternator my is 120KW 3 Phase 330vAC
Now thats an alternator ( more like the generator and starter LOL!) I can power small neighborhood with that
Check your A/C clutch gap? If not right, it could be drawing too much to keep the clutch engaged.
might have a point there, never thought of that!
My 11yo daughter like to work on my '94 suburban with me. She likes shiny new parts as well. She painted the transmission we swapped in last year in midnight-sparkle blue.
Excelent video sr. Can you make a video about exhaust titanium wrap to lower the temperature under the hood. You will be surprised ;)
I have the same prob . What i found Chev shuts down the alt at idle . This 8s done in the pcm .
Does the voltage drop when the fans first turn on?
What was the issue of the connector being 3d printed?
Am I missing something?..The alternator is supposed to make 198Amps at idle,I never saw that number in the Klein.
It does. However in the test at 12:40 in the video he had everything on, in which is drawing apps from the total at idle/198 amps. He had 95.2 amps so it would be safe to say that he was probably pulling about 102.8 amps at idle leaving him with 95.2 amps at idle. When manufacturers test the alternators they're normally at 0 load. Even with everything off, if he installed it into the vehicle he would only see about a 150 amps even though it made a 198 amps. This is because the vehicle itself pulls at least 30 or 40 amps to operate. I hope this helps in some way. It would be nice if he did a test with everything off and at idle.
I also forgot to mention the extra amperage is what's charging the battery and if you have too many amps it can fry the battery. It's like charging a battery on high for too long. They prefer a trickle charge. This is why most alternators are now computerized.
@@robbyota5598 Oh ok,I get it now,suffice it to say,electricity related work is not my thing,but at least I like to learn a bit...Thanks a lot.
@@robbyota5598 This is not how the electrical system or alternators work. You never saw 198 amps on the meter, because the truck was never pulling 198 amps. The alternator only puts out what is demanded of it, up to a maximum of 198 amps at idle and 258 amps at 2000 engine rpm. Just because it is capable of delivering 200 amps, doesn't mean that it always puts out that power. It only puts out what it needs to. Having a better alternator with more available amperage will not fry a battery, because it isn't putting out max amps 24/7 and the voltage is regulated to a safe range.
@@theopinion9452 See above comment. You got some bad info, and you should know how things actually work
Ok. So was this enough. Or should i take my fans back out?
Does the battery play issues with the alternator vs cable size vs battery size.?
Will this work on my 1990 silverado k1500 5.7 ?
15 V?
Coming soon: How to change bulbs all over the place.
15v is normal during cold start charging. 14.6 or so is the normal running charge voltage.
@@1RoadGarage
Okay - believe in it. ;)
Jajajajajajaj
@corey Babcock 13.5 - 14.7 is Considered acceptable on a 12v lead acid car battery. 12v AMG and Deep cycle batteries do not like to be charged at that voltage.
First thing I did to my 97 burb. After watching your flex a lite fan video. I knew I'd need more juice.
MECHMAN FTW
Great you got a mechman alternator
Im a little skeptical about your last alternator