This is very interesting vid and appreciated. For the non racing family car Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will be all you need as it has the right amount of zinc. The secret if it is actually is one.. is to change the oil/filter every 5,000 miles or every six mouths. Do this with a Honda or Toyota motor and they are known to do 300, 000 miles and more.
Watch the ppm levels. Anything over 966ppm could damage the car cat's. On race engine, yes, a high zinc concentration Is good, but, on street cars it can reduce the life of the car anti-pollutants parts. Math will need to be applied, example, a 5W30 Amsoil SS will have a count of 807 ppm of zinc, a Pennz Ultra bas a 811 ppm of zinc, The street Royal purple has 585ppm of zinc, oils like Motul 300V, RP XPR or PTH Racing oils already have +1,000's and +2,000's ppm of zinc.
If I have only a 5 quart oil capacity will the full bottle be too much? Also does this product wear out before a required oil change ? I have 2 67 Olds 98s and a 84 Lebaron and a 86 dodge 600. Is there a formula if the capacity is less then 6 quarts. Does it matter what motor oil you use?
Okay so I can add it to oil that was changed some months ago? A buddy told me that fully synthetic oil is not always the best choice for an engine. In this case a "flat tap." And that an annoying whirring sound was something called "valve lift" and that the answer was in ZDDP?
Can zinc be added with other additives like zmax in regular 5W30 synthetic oil? (V6 chevy engine) And with the older Harley Davidson twin cams, most owners used 20w50 synthetic in the crank case, primary and tranny (all in 1). Can zinc be used in an older stock twin cam? And will it help keep engine cooler? I usually use Mobile 1 or Almsoil in my scooter.
been watching a few videos on this and everyone says if you not in a race car do not put much over 1000 ppm in your everyday normal car, it will mess up smog stuff and is actually bad for engine just like taking to much zine in your diet is bad for you i use castrol gtx 10/30 it has .12 per quart zinc in it i use this in my jeep 4.0 plus i add 1/2 of the V8 can of restore,
Our formula is specifically designed for maximum protection during the engine break-in. For everyday use, we recommend following manufacturer recommendations on the level of ZDDP that is needed for cams and cranks. However, using an entire 2 fl. oz. the bottle will not hurt engines that were designed to use ZDDP. It is not recommended for engines with catalytic converters, ZINC does not damage the catalytic converter, it's phosphorous. Phosphorus can create a coating inside the catalytic converter reducing its effectiveness.
Restore is only good for helping low compression engines, with scored liners. Your bearings aren't liking to smash all those metal pieces, if they get out of the filter...
So zinc "activates" at 700-1100ºF? You must be referring to Zn melting and boiling points: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc Even synthetic oil is going to vaporize long before reaching Zn's melting point. I think a better explanation of how ZDDP actually works inside an engine would eliminate the confusion in this video. Plus, whatever sacrificial phosphate layer is going to be created, it's not going to magically flatten out microscopic flaws in the camshaft lobes of lifter faces as shown in the animation.
The reason they have reduced the amount of zinc in oil isn't because it's not needed , they did lower it because it destroys Catalytic converters and because they need these over priced so called emissions devices the manufacturer will sacrifice "Your" engine to keep the environmental agency off their backs. It's that simple. Zinc is the magic bullet of longevity in your engine. Read up on what Lake Speed says
In reality, Zinc doesn't destroy Catalytic converters. Catalytic converters stop working after becoming blocked by carbon build up from the simple act of burning gasoline. Most catalytic converters would start working again if you could clean them out. Gasoline is the biggest enemy of Catalytic converters. Sometimes a catalytic converter will go bad from overheating when the engine isn't running properly. Catalytic converters are an item no different than brake pads. At some point in time it will need to be replaced. Zinc isn't to blame.
@@carlorocky I am not an expert on zinc/caats. A lot has changed since 96..tighter tolorances, new materials! I know zinc has been mostly replaced with other libricant additives like Moly and Bormium. I would think todays oils would be enough without extra additives as long as you do regular oil/filter change.
There is a LOT of misinformation on what ZINC will and will not do. For Zinc to take out any catalytic convertor you have to have an unusually large amount of crankcase vapors sucked into the intake stream to even get to the exhaust for that to happen. this usually occurs on older engines. ZINC is primarily for the use of aiding new engines with the ability to break in without the possibility of lubrication-related failures. Not many people need to continue running the ZINC additive after the break in process has been completed.
@@markwarnberg9504 Yes, newer engines and newer oils don't require as much zinc. It's all about the additive package..They use other additives in place of zinc.
I have a 2015 Chrysler Town and country van with 3.6 engine....it makes a ticking sound, not from stuck lifters but from worn roller bearings. It's a known issue and a real crap design. I've started using zddp and it has quietened the ticking sound from the roller bearings significantly. I think that the low zinc formulations in modern oil has contributed to premature failure in a badly designer engine.
never heard of this and i been working at dodge for years as a tech ....think you might be neglecting oil changes or going too long on a single oil change.....only go 5000k NO MORE or 6 if you must EVEN with sythetic. We never had any v6 come in for ticking noises and its not a known issue as there is no star bulletin for it. only for the HEMI engines. not to mention ZINK is not suppose to be a major amount in modern NON performance engines.
@@Scypher0th oil changes have been religiously done at the Beaman dodge/Chrysler in Nashville using synthetic oil and Mopar filters. My father, the original owner bought the vehicle there with a oil change package so it was always done by them on schedule. I also have a 2001 Chrysler Town and country, so I'm definitely not anti dodge/Chrysler, and though it my not look good anymore, it still runs and shifts great at 250,000...I always do my own oil changes.
6.4 Hemi guy here. Call me crazy but I have been using MMO at the 2k mark on a 4K oil interval change. 2500 ram with 49k on it and when I add the MMO I swear the motor runs way quieter. Zero valve train noise. Shits crazy I never believed in it till I owned Hemis. I also never ever let them idle lol. I keep my trucks till they a rust out. Never had a lifter issue. 🤞🏼
@@Paul-cb2rb I agree and use it. Engine (2006 Alloytec V6) runs smooth and no more loss of oil between changes and after read about its competitors Penrite don't muck around when making a world class oil. As for second best oil? Mobil 1 Synthetic I guess.
Good for race cars but if you put too much zinc in your automotive engine oil it will poison the cat converter. Most non auto engine oils like small engine oil and motorcycle oils etc. (anything without a cat) have higher levels of zinc.
I've always heard and understood, zinc additives or high zinc oils are for use in older vehicles like pre 90's with flat tappit cams. Most if not all of those that I can think of dont have the type of cat that would be hurt by the additive. Also most of us are not even running cats on our classics in the first place. Aspecially pre 80's vehicles which are usually exempt from emissions by now. Also on a side note. Theres alot of road motorcycles that have cats.
@@motov8-garage832 You're right, but zinc is still the best anti wear additive, and they still use higher levels in non automotive oils. The next time you're in a lawn mower dealer or tractor supply, look at the Kawasaki or Kohler small engine oils. They say "High Zinc" written right on the bottle. Marine oils have higher levels as well.
The supposed danger of high zinc is if it's vaporized it destroys a catalytic converter. This likely won't happen with a good synthetic oil. Just don't mix this with junk dinosaur oil. And remember before cats oil had 10 timed the zinc as modern oil
Zink doesn't activate until it reaches at least 700 degrees? WOW!!! Engine's normal operating oil temperature is around 250 degrees. God help us if we need to raise our engine's oil temperature 3 times over normal in order for the zinc to activate. Please explain what I'm missing.
I have a stock 2014 Dodge Charger Pursuit with the 5.7 Hemi, is Zinc additive good for normal cars and normal every day driving? Will it still work and save my engine from premature wear?
I was told by a few TH-cam reviewers like you engine additive like yours or Redline Break-in oil doesn't change the friction characteristics of the original engine oil and not all type of engine oil can blend with it causing damage to the engine. So what is your say about this?
@Hitman I think the best thing and basic thing to do is check the engine manufacturer requirements for engine oil although it can be the same specs like 5W-30 but it may not contain the necessary additive or chemistry for your engine. Today engine is no like in the 90's or 80's
@igor2030ign Thank you for your response. I just got a new colorado zr2 with a 2.7 L turbo And want to know what I should do to keep it in that best shape for as long as possible.
@@carlmcdonald5864 Congrats! Great car! I like it very much! Another very important moment to keep your engine best shape is oil change interval and oil type. Interval - not more than 3000 miles and oil type = mineral API 15W-40 or 10W-40. With this recommendations your engine will last more than 250-350K miles. Synthetic is bad for piston rings and timing chain, and motor with synthetic will require repair about 150K miles. IMPORTANT: If winter temperature is below -10°C please use 5W-40 semi or synthetic oil for winter time.
I don’t know what zinc does, but if your lower valve gear reaches 700 (370c) your engine is fooked ;p) Anyhoo, there is all sorts in engine oil and it’s all good 👍
PennOil1 has 1,500ppm of Zinc and 1,400ppm of phosphorus in their oils. Iskyderian cams even recommends PennOil1 for break-in oil. According to PennOil there is no advantage to anything above 1,500ppm of Zinc in a racing motor.
As explained in the video , Zddp reacts at the sliding contact. Locally, at the micro-contacts (asperities) the zddp decompose both because of local high temperature (flash temperature ) and mechanical-induced reaction (trino chemical or mechanichemical). You can easily grow glass phosphate layers on the sliding parts even at room temperature
I call BS. The product works but not the way it is described in this video. Zinc is an element. Phosphorous is an element. Zinc never turns into phosphorous. It cannot form a phosphorous glass. Zinc works in the same ways a molybdenum, another elemental metal does , but it is more effective in elemental form because has much lower melting point. It is a soft metal that melts at lower temperatures than steel, but at 787F, about 400F higher than the vapor temperature of oil. Scratches in steel cause localized turbulence, which produces extreme heat much higher than the vapor temperature of oil and the turbulence plus heat causes erosion The soft metal particles are sucked into the collapsing microbubbles of the vaporizing oil. They clump, melt or are sintered together and act to partially fill the scratches and reduce the turbulence while conducting heat. In essence a metallic zinc additive is a very high temperature lubricant. It also acts as a sacrificial cathodic material in the presence of water vapor.
The Phosphorous is the important part in protecting the cams, but the Zinc is needed to make it usable in your engine. This video helps explain better than I could. th-cam.com/video/3PeqJqss0Ao/w-d-xo.html
5.7 tbi? If you smell fuel/rotten eggs the cats long gone. Can you use it yes/no Yes-extra zinc wont hurt anything No-you dont really need it,you have roller lifters Do i run exta zinc-yes,due to what i use my vehicle for
But seriously, why would a 15w40 would be so much better than a 0w40? What is pertinent about that winter number at engine operating temps? Im dead serious here, i cant find anyone to give me a straight answer. I've always learned that the w is only important at cold temps, and the viscosity is whats important at operating temps. So why couldnt you have the best of both worlds with a 0w40???
It's all based on engine design and the additive package..You have to know what you have (The engines lubrication requirements) to know what you need..I could write a book on this subject but, there are many good people here on TH-cam (video's) that explain all this very well..Keep watching and learning with the rest of us..:)..I will say this..The 15-40 you mention is a diesel engine designation. the 0-40 you mention is a car designation and usually called a euro blend oil..Understanding all of this is takes a lot of research. I recommend (as an example) if your car requires lets say 10-30 that's what you use..If that is whats on the oil cap or the manual that is what it was designed for. Nothing else..
This is actually a terrible product. I added it to a diesel oil. And the Blackstone lab came back with less zinc than a virgin analysis. Now if I want high zddp oil. I just buy high zddp oil. Additives are trash.
@@joes.7536 So far doing the research Rislone was the only product that boosted the Zinc additive package to 1,500 ppm..Via oil analysis..It had more then most all the other ZDDP supplement additives on the market however not all were tested but, most were..Some of the additives (STP) actually had less Zinc by volume then most engine oils..Most engine oils have about 700ppm today. And that is fine for modern engines but SN/SP oils is NOT backward compatible with flat tappet cam engines..Not if you want that full top end protection the older engines need..There are engine oils out there that have a high Zinc package but not many..Valvoline VR1 racing oil does..Driven Oils also make a high Zinc oil..Do the research and you will find them..Diesel oils have nice zinc packages but the viscosity is to high and those oils are not compatible with gasoline engines..It's way to thick..Engines have to be designed for specific viscosity to lubricate correctly..If your oil cap says 0/20 you better use 0/20 or you will probably hurt that engine..Thicker oil does not pump well through a modern engine..The oil passages are so small..Hope this helps everyone understand the Zinc topic better..??
You are correct on a few things but not much else. ZINC is sold to be used in a certain concentration to achieve the correct blend for high performance engines. If you don't use it in the correct concentration you won't get the proper results. I would say that you are a someone that likes to think you know more than you do, any knowledgeable person that reads your response will laugh at your posted ignorance. Diesel engine oil not being compatible with gas engines.... LOL You do nothing to help anyone understand how ZINC helps within a lubrication system to provide increased protection. Anyone that reads this, Please feel free to look up how ZINC additives work on google for a lot of beneficial info.
@@Revxoil Are you aware that zinc is attracted to metal and detergents try to pull it away so they fight each other unless the additive package is adjusted correctly..
Isn't zinc for old school motors with cam in block designs. I'm thinking of Chevy and Dodge V8's. Modern overhead cam motors don't need that additive from what I understand.
what about overhead cam engines with cams operating bucket tappets? So not Honda VTEC using roller rockers, but something like Toyota A series DOHC series engines (e.g. 4AGE/7AGE) with cams directly acting on bucket tappets. I suspect the answer might be depend on race/road use and whether the car has catalytic converters.
@@xESPplayer500x aren't we talking about the same thing? Bucket tappets are similar to other flat tappets, except the shape is like a bucket enclosing the top of the valve stem and valve spring. So my question was what sort of oil/additive package should be used with DOHC and SOHC engines with bucket tappets and why?
@@alexjenner1108 ah yes i see. I like rislone zddp or just add a thing of stp additive that contains zinc. I just add a little to clean high mileage oil. I stay away from moly. And i add the zinc because I do believe it creates sacrificial barriers between parts thus increasing engine longevity
I have a 2003 F150 with a 4.2 liter V6. My truck has over 230,000 miles on her but she runs great. I did some research and found that Redline has twice the amount of ZDDP than other oils so I jumped on it and purchased a gallon jug. I did do more research and came and saw the cats thing and now I am FRIGHTENED to put this stuff in my aging truck. Question is, what if I just put in a quart of this stuff combined with 6 quarts of SuperTech? Will this Walmart oil diluted some of that ad pack to were it won’t mess with my cats?
Ah, one MAJOR problem here!!! You say at 700 degrees blah blah blah, it forms a coating………. Well sorry to say oil will NEVER EVER see 700 degrees unless you have a MAJOR, and I mean absolutely MAJOR problem!!! Only time or place an internal engine sees 700 is inside the combustion chamber or the exhaust!! I’ve rebuilt to many to count and diagnose engines in my life to know that for example my engine oil even in EXTREME conditions runs at about 220 degrees and on really long up hill pulls never goes above 230 on my oil temperature gauge. Maybe facts should be found before speaking. Zinc itself, the micro particles is what does the ‘lubing’ to help with break-in.
Clearly sir you are correct in thinking that your engine oil as a whole, will not reach that temperature overall. Zinc does not work on the overall temperature of the lubricant, it functions on friction points. A friction point may occur were metal to metal contact happens at an extreme contact point (such as a camshaft lobe when it reaches its maximum point of lift). These friction points inside of an engine using extreme valve spring pressure can go way higher than 1000F temperatures. That is why ZINC as an additive is used to combat wear and extend the life of internally lubricated components. The way of testing oil temperatures as a whole can be done using a gauge in the pan, it is not the same as measuring friction point temperatures at specific locations inside the engine.
Revxoil really doesn't know how the very product he sells works.Adding additional zinc is much more complex because it has to have the correct additive package to be effective..
My 2001 wj 4.0 loves it will continue to use every oil change.Thank you.
99 wj 4.0 four by here and I like what you done. What due you think of your four by capability.
I run the Lucas zinc additive at every oil change. I use half a bottle as to not overdo it. I'm almost at 40k miles on my new engine and no problems.
This is very interesting vid and appreciated. For the non racing family car Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will be all you need as it has the right amount of zinc. The secret if it is actually is one.. is to change the oil/filter every 5,000 miles or every six mouths. Do this with a Honda or Toyota motor and they are known to do 300, 000 miles and more.
What a great job of explaining, thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Watch the ppm levels. Anything over 966ppm could damage the car cat's. On race engine, yes, a high zinc concentration Is good, but, on street cars it can reduce the life of the car anti-pollutants parts. Math will need to be applied, example, a 5W30 Amsoil SS will have a count of 807 ppm of zinc, a Pennz Ultra bas a 811 ppm of zinc, The street Royal purple has 585ppm of zinc, oils like Motul 300V, RP XPR or PTH Racing oils already have +1,000's and +2,000's ppm of zinc.
Zinc (zddp) destroys the catalytic converters. Use only in order cars with no cats, older flat tappet applications.
What if I drive a Land Rover with cats and flat tappet set up???
What do you consider older cars? 1996 w overhead cam?
@@ronaldrrootiii6040if your valve spring pressure is stock just use the viscosity mentioned in the manual and don't worry about zinc.
If I have only a 5 quart oil capacity will the full bottle be too much? Also does this product wear out before a required oil change ? I have 2 67 Olds 98s and a 84 Lebaron and a 86 dodge 600. Is there a formula if the capacity is less then 6 quarts. Does it matter what motor oil you use?
Hello, can I use this in my motorcycle? It just has a 106cc engine and 1 Liter oil changes.
Okay so I can add it to oil that was changed some months ago? A buddy told me that fully synthetic oil is not always the best choice for an engine. In this case a "flat tap." And that an annoying whirring sound was something called "valve lift" and that the answer was in ZDDP?
ive read that going over 1400ppm zinc can actually damage your cam and lifters via spalling.
Just a bunch of nerds spewing nonsense. Put the zinc in your engine.
Can zinc be added with other additives like zmax in regular 5W30 synthetic oil? (V6 chevy engine)
And with the older Harley Davidson twin cams, most owners used 20w50 synthetic in the crank case, primary and tranny (all in 1). Can zinc be used in an older stock twin cam? And will it help keep engine cooler?
I usually use Mobile 1 or Almsoil in my scooter.
ZINC is an anti-wear additive so it does not reduce friction which helps reduce thermal temperatures. We do not recommend mixing additives.
What about the effect of the zinc on the catilitic converter
Yes bad for Cats if your engine is already burning oil and the reason most add zinc to a warn engine.
Can adding or using to much zinc or oil additives cause problems to your motor
Yep, it corrodes soft metals, like brass, zinc and aluminium. 1400 ppm max and yer golden.
YES!!..DON'T PUT ZINC IN NON RACE CARS WITH CAT CONVERTERS
The problem with catalitic converter plugged comes from the Phosphorus in ZDDP
I'll be getting two bottles for my Cummins.
been watching a few videos on this and everyone says if you not in a race car do not put much over 1000 ppm in your everyday normal car, it will mess up smog stuff and is actually bad for engine just like taking to much zine in your diet is bad for you i use castrol gtx 10/30 it has .12 per quart zinc in it i use this in my jeep 4.0 plus i add 1/2 of the V8 can of restore,
Our formula is specifically designed for maximum protection during the engine break-in. For everyday use, we recommend following manufacturer recommendations on the level of ZDDP that is needed for cams and cranks. However, using an entire 2 fl. oz. the bottle will not hurt engines that were designed to use ZDDP.
It is not recommended for engines with catalytic converters, ZINC does not damage the catalytic converter, it's phosphorous. Phosphorus can create a coating inside the catalytic converter reducing its effectiveness.
Restore is only good for helping low compression engines, with scored liners. Your bearings aren't liking to smash all those metal pieces, if they get out of the filter...
So zinc "activates" at 700-1100ºF?
You must be referring to Zn melting and boiling points: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc
Even synthetic oil is going to vaporize long before reaching Zn's melting point.
I think a better explanation of how ZDDP actually works inside an engine would eliminate the confusion in this video. Plus, whatever sacrificial phosphate layer is going to be created, it's not going to magically flatten out microscopic flaws in the camshaft lobes of lifter faces as shown in the animation.
The reason they have reduced the amount of zinc in oil isn't because it's not needed , they did lower it because it destroys Catalytic converters and because they need these over priced so called emissions devices the manufacturer will sacrifice "Your" engine to keep the environmental agency off their backs. It's that simple. Zinc is the magic bullet of longevity in your engine. Read up on what Lake Speed says
In reality, Zinc doesn't destroy Catalytic converters. Catalytic converters stop working after becoming blocked by carbon build up from the simple act of burning gasoline. Most catalytic converters would start working again if you could clean them out. Gasoline is the biggest enemy of Catalytic converters. Sometimes a catalytic converter will go bad from overheating when the engine isn't running properly. Catalytic converters are an item no different than brake pads. At some point in time it will need to be replaced. Zinc isn't to blame.
Can this be used in a differential? Bearing is starting to wear and making noise. Replacing the bearing would cost too much.
Yes, ZDDP can be added to Gear Lube.
Wont this ruin catlytic convertors at that amount of ppm?
@@Revxoil YES IT WILL!! That is why the oil manufacturers have decreesed the amouth of ZPPD and replaced it with other lubricating additives.
@@markwarnberg9504would you consider a 1996 model old enough to benefit from added zinc without too much potential damage to the cats.?
@@carlorocky I am not an expert on zinc/caats. A lot has changed since 96..tighter tolorances, new materials! I know zinc has been mostly replaced with other libricant additives like Moly and Bormium. I would think todays oils would be enough without extra additives as long as you do regular oil/filter change.
There is a LOT of misinformation on what ZINC will and will not do. For Zinc to take out any catalytic convertor you have to have an unusually large amount of crankcase vapors sucked into the intake stream to even get to the exhaust for that to happen. this usually occurs on older engines. ZINC is primarily for the use of aiding new engines with the ability to break in without the possibility of lubrication-related failures. Not many people need to continue running the ZINC additive after the break in process has been completed.
@@markwarnberg9504 Yes, newer engines and newer oils don't require as much zinc. It's all about the additive package..They use other additives in place of zinc.
I have a 2015 Chrysler Town and country van with 3.6 engine....it makes a ticking sound, not from stuck lifters but from worn roller bearings. It's a known issue and a real crap design. I've started using zddp and it has quietened the ticking sound from the roller bearings significantly. I think that the low zinc formulations in modern oil has contributed to premature failure in a badly designer engine.
never heard of this and i been working at dodge for years as a tech ....think you might be neglecting oil changes or going too long on a single oil change.....only go 5000k NO MORE or 6 if you must EVEN with sythetic. We never had any v6 come in for ticking noises and its not a known issue as there is no star bulletin for it. only for the HEMI engines. not to mention ZINK is not suppose to be a major amount in modern NON performance engines.
@@Scypher0th oil changes have been religiously done at the Beaman dodge/Chrysler in Nashville using synthetic oil and Mopar filters. My father, the original owner bought the vehicle there with a oil change package so it was always done by them on schedule. I also have a 2001 Chrysler Town and country, so I'm definitely not anti dodge/Chrysler, and though it my not look good anymore, it still runs and shifts great at 250,000...I always do my own oil changes.
@@Scypher0th www.carproblemzoo.com/chrysler/town_country/engine-clicking-and-tapping-noises-problems.php
It's a turd engine.
@@Scypher0th what about the 2.7l? Its a Chrysler v6 with a long list of problems. How long you been working on Chryslers?
can this is be used in 2014 Camaro V6 engines ,how about the CATS..? ??
Will this prevent the Ram engine tick that leads to lifter failure
Zinc will not prevent that. REV X High Performance Oil Treatment when used regularly will help prevent that.
6.4 Hemi guy here. Call me crazy but I have been using MMO at the 2k mark on a 4K oil interval change. 2500 ram with 49k on it and when I add the MMO I swear the motor runs way quieter. Zero valve train noise. Shits crazy I never believed in it till I owned Hemis. I also never ever let them idle lol. I keep my trucks till they a rust out. Never had a lifter issue. 🤞🏼
@@CarveLife they use MMO in aircraft engines that were made 75 years ago, one of secrets how they keep them running
@@pantac4493 cheapest insurance policy I have ever had. I might try the new synthetic they came out with
Penrite HPR 5-40 full syth has zinc additive already in it and it's approved by Mercedes.
Best oil mate. And also the 10 Tenths range 👍🏼
@@Paul-cb2rb I agree and use it. Engine (2006 Alloytec V6) runs smooth and no more loss of oil between changes and after read about its competitors Penrite don't muck around when making a world class oil. As for second best oil? Mobil 1 Synthetic I guess.
Is it the Zinc that protects or the Phosphates? A: Phosphates
Zinc radical react with oxygen and prevent oxidation
Good for race cars but if you put too much zinc in your automotive engine oil it will poison the cat converter. Most non auto engine oils like small engine oil and motorcycle oils etc. (anything without a cat) have higher levels of zinc.
I've always heard and understood, zinc additives or high zinc oils are for use in older vehicles like pre 90's with flat tappit cams. Most if not all of those that I can think of dont have the type of cat that would be hurt by the additive. Also most of us are not even running cats on our classics in the first place. Aspecially pre 80's vehicles which are usually exempt from emissions by now. Also on a side note. Theres alot of road motorcycles that have cats.
@@motov8-garage832 You're right, but zinc is still the best anti wear additive, and they still use higher levels in non automotive oils. The next time you're in a lawn mower dealer or tractor supply, look at the Kawasaki or Kohler small engine oils. They say "High Zinc" written right on the bottle. Marine oils have higher levels as well.
@Scott Duffy people who shouldn`t be worrying about oil additives LOL
Is this any good on older diesel engine non turbo like a Nissan 720 SD25 diesel engine
can i use zinc phosphorus oil in my 2016 motorcycle? (as i know ZDDP is only for older vehicles)
The supposed danger of high zinc is if it's vaporized it destroys a catalytic converter. This likely won't happen with a good synthetic oil. Just don't mix this with junk dinosaur oil. And remember before cats oil had 10 timed the zinc as modern oil
Zink doesn't activate until it reaches at least 700 degrees? WOW!!!
Engine's normal operating oil temperature is around 250 degrees.
God help us if we need to raise our engine's oil temperature 3 times over normal in order for the zinc to activate.
Please explain what I'm missing.
Maybe in hot spots over 700 degrees?
Hi I have to put it on every oil change ?‽?
Yes it is recommended that you use it after every oil change
I have a stock 2014 Dodge Charger Pursuit with the 5.7 Hemi, is Zinc additive good for normal cars and normal every day driving? Will it still work and save my engine from premature wear?
Not for vehicles with Convertors
I was told by a few TH-cam reviewers like you engine additive like yours or Redline Break-in oil doesn't change the friction characteristics of the original engine oil and not all type of engine oil can blend with it causing damage to the engine. So what is your say about this?
@Hitman I think the best thing and basic thing to do is check the engine manufacturer requirements for engine oil although it can be the same specs like 5W-30 but it may not contain the necessary additive or chemistry for your engine. Today engine is no like in the 90's or 80's
How much ZINC do i add to a 4 quart 2.2 liter engine?
Go ahead and put the whole bottle in. Treats up to 6 quarts.
Is zddp good for new turbo engines
What is the difference between new and old engines?
Well - there 5 to 10% difference.
Yes it's good for ANY engines from ANY production year.
@igor2030ign Thank you for your response. I just got a new colorado zr2 with a 2.7 L turbo And want to know what I should do to keep it in that best shape for as long as possible.
@@carlmcdonald5864 Congrats! Great car! I like it very much!
Another very important moment to keep your engine best shape is oil change interval and oil type. Interval - not more than 3000 miles and oil type = mineral API 15W-40 or 10W-40. With this recommendations your engine will last more than 250-350K miles.
Synthetic is bad for piston rings and timing chain, and motor with synthetic will require repair about 150K miles.
IMPORTANT:
If winter temperature is below -10°C please use 5W-40 semi or synthetic oil for winter time.
ZDDP is 1960's technology..... Its weak.... Just ask David Vizard.
To much Zinc will pit/craze flat tappet cam followers.
whats so great about david vizard@@gj91471
I don’t know what zinc does, but if your lower valve gear reaches 700 (370c) your engine is fooked ;p) Anyhoo, there is all sorts in engine oil and it’s all good 👍
800 ppm for CC's. Up to 1200 ppm for racin' oils it seems. How can the zinc get up to 700 deg F in a motor? Vaporize the oil?
Top ring and its land, for example
PennOil1 has 1,500ppm of Zinc and 1,400ppm of phosphorus in their oils. Iskyderian cams even recommends PennOil1 for break-in oil. According to PennOil there is no advantage to anything above 1,500ppm of Zinc in a racing motor.
you said the zinc forms a coating at a temperature of 700 degrees !! I don't think I would have an engine left at 700 degrees !!!!!
My thoughts exactly!
High ZDDP is used to break in an engine. Not at 700f, obviously! Haha
As explained in the video , Zddp reacts at the sliding contact. Locally, at the micro-contacts (asperities) the zddp decompose both because of local high temperature (flash temperature ) and mechanical-induced reaction (trino chemical or mechanichemical).
You can easily grow glass phosphate layers on the sliding parts even at room temperature
how often do i treat my oil
Every oil change.
I call BS. The product works but not the way it is described in this video.
Zinc is an element. Phosphorous is an element. Zinc never turns into phosphorous. It cannot form a phosphorous glass.
Zinc works in the same ways a molybdenum, another elemental metal does , but it is more effective in elemental form because has much lower melting point. It is a soft metal that melts at lower temperatures than steel, but at 787F, about 400F higher than the vapor temperature of oil.
Scratches in steel cause localized turbulence, which produces extreme heat much higher than the vapor temperature of oil and the turbulence plus heat causes erosion The soft metal particles are sucked into the collapsing microbubbles of the vaporizing oil. They clump, melt or are sintered together and act to partially fill the scratches and reduce the turbulence while conducting heat.
In essence a metallic zinc additive is a very high temperature lubricant. It also acts as a sacrificial cathodic material in the presence of water vapor.
Blessings. Now I understand.
Sodium zinc phosphate is the actual additive, not elemental zinc.
The Phosphorous is the important part in protecting the cams, but the Zinc is needed to make it usable in your engine. This video helps explain better than I could.
th-cam.com/video/3PeqJqss0Ao/w-d-xo.html
what about zinc in atf ?
@user-ct1cr7yd9k ; We do not recommend using it in ATF unless advised to do so by the manufacturer.
"Your race car with no O2 sensors" lmao😂
What about catalytic converters? Thanks.
Valvoline says around 800 ppm max.
I use Brad Penn hipo 5W30 oil it has high levels of ZDDP using it for 18yrs never a cat problem.
I have a 1990 5.7 350 gmc jimmy I was wondering if I needed a zinc additive but it does have a Cadillac converter on it?
5.7 tbi? If you smell fuel/rotten eggs the cats long gone. Can you use it yes/no
Yes-extra zinc wont hurt anything
No-you dont really need it,you have roller lifters
Do i run exta zinc-yes,due to what i use my vehicle for
@@mattw7557 I have a 2014 Camaro V6, will this additive help for engine. how about CATS ?
@@sapien213 no.your engine is too new,i wouldnt risk it.normal 5w 30 works.i own a 13 ss and i feed it mobile 1 and a acdelco filter
I want to get a Cadillac converter to fit to my old clunker. 😂
@@mattw7557Do you think that a 1996 overhead cam flat tappet engine would benefit from added zinc without harming the cats?
I like
But seriously, why would a 15w40 would be so much better than a 0w40? What is pertinent about that winter number at engine operating temps? Im dead serious here, i cant find anyone to give me a straight answer. I've always learned that the w is only important at cold temps, and the viscosity is whats important at operating temps. So why couldnt you have the best of both worlds with a 0w40???
You are correct, w is only important in cold temps.
It's all based on engine design and the additive package..You have to know what you have (The engines lubrication requirements) to know what you need..I could write a book on this subject but, there are many good people here on TH-cam (video's) that explain all this very well..Keep watching and learning with the rest of us..:)..I will say this..The 15-40 you mention is a diesel engine designation. the 0-40 you mention is a car designation and usually called a euro blend oil..Understanding all of this is takes a lot of research. I recommend (as an example) if your car requires lets say 10-30 that's what you use..If that is whats on the oil cap or the manual that is what it was designed for. Nothing else..
You can only use that stuff in non-detergent oil!
This is actually a terrible product. I added it to a diesel oil. And the Blackstone lab came back with less zinc than a virgin analysis. Now if I want high zddp oil. I just buy high zddp oil. Additives are trash.
@@joes.7536 So far doing the research Rislone was the only product that boosted the Zinc additive package to 1,500 ppm..Via oil analysis..It had more then most all the other ZDDP supplement additives on the market however not all were tested but, most were..Some of the additives (STP) actually had less Zinc by volume then most engine oils..Most engine oils have about 700ppm today. And that is fine for modern engines but SN/SP oils is NOT backward compatible with flat tappet cam engines..Not if you want that full top end protection the older engines need..There are engine oils out there that have a high Zinc package but not many..Valvoline VR1 racing oil does..Driven Oils also make a high Zinc oil..Do the research and you will find them..Diesel oils have nice zinc packages but the viscosity is to high and those oils are not compatible with gasoline engines..It's way to thick..Engines have to be designed for specific viscosity to lubricate correctly..If your oil cap says 0/20 you better use 0/20 or you will probably hurt that engine..Thicker oil does not pump well through a modern engine..The oil passages are so small..Hope this helps everyone understand the Zinc topic better..??
False! ZINC can be used in any blend of oil! It has proven over a hundred years to be very beneficial in all types of lubricating fluids.
You are correct on a few things but not much else. ZINC is sold to be used in a certain concentration to achieve the correct blend for high performance engines. If you don't use it in the correct concentration you won't get the proper results. I would say that you are a someone that likes to think you know more than you do, any knowledgeable person that reads your response will laugh at your posted ignorance. Diesel engine oil not being compatible with gas engines.... LOL You do nothing to help anyone understand how ZINC helps within a lubrication system to provide increased protection. Anyone that reads this, Please feel free to look up how ZINC additives work on google for a lot of beneficial info.
@@Revxoil Are you aware that zinc is attracted to metal and detergents try to pull it away so they fight each other unless the additive package is adjusted correctly..
So 2oz per 6 quarts.
I have 4qt system so I guess I'll use 1.3oz
Good thing I don't have any catalytic converters 🤫
Isn't zinc for old school motors with cam in block designs. I'm thinking of Chevy and Dodge V8's. Modern overhead cam motors don't need that additive from what I understand.
what about overhead cam engines with cams operating bucket tappets? So not Honda VTEC using roller rockers, but something like Toyota A series DOHC series engines (e.g. 4AGE/7AGE) with cams directly acting on bucket tappets. I suspect the answer might be depend on race/road use and whether the car has catalytic converters.
@@alexjenner1108actually most toyotas use flat tappets. Just rebuilt a 2azfe with it. And 1zzfe
@@xESPplayer500x aren't we talking about the same thing? Bucket tappets are similar to other flat tappets, except the shape is like a bucket enclosing the top of the valve stem and valve spring. So my question was what sort of oil/additive package should be used with DOHC and SOHC engines with bucket tappets and why?
@@alexjenner1108 ah yes i see. I like rislone zddp or just add a thing of stp additive that contains zinc. I just add a little to clean high mileage oil. I stay away from moly. And i add the zinc because I do believe it creates sacrificial barriers between parts thus increasing engine longevity
I have a 2003 F150 with a 4.2 liter V6. My truck has over 230,000 miles on her but she runs great. I did some research and found that Redline has twice the amount of ZDDP than other oils so I jumped on it and purchased a gallon jug. I did do more research and came and saw the cats thing and now I am FRIGHTENED to put this stuff in my aging truck. Question is, what if I just put in a quart of this stuff combined with 6 quarts of SuperTech? Will this Walmart oil diluted some of that ad pack to were it won’t mess with my cats?
that shirt is fuckin sweet
Too much zink will cause excessive wear.
Ah, one MAJOR problem here!!! You say at 700 degrees blah blah blah, it forms a coating………. Well sorry to say oil will NEVER EVER see 700 degrees unless you have a MAJOR, and I mean absolutely MAJOR problem!!! Only time or place an internal engine sees 700 is inside the combustion chamber or the exhaust!! I’ve rebuilt to many to count and diagnose engines in my life to know that for example my engine oil even in EXTREME conditions runs at about 220 degrees and on really long up hill pulls never goes above 230 on my oil temperature gauge. Maybe facts should be found before speaking. Zinc itself, the micro particles is what does the ‘lubing’ to help with break-in.
Clearly sir you are correct in thinking that your engine oil as a whole, will not reach that temperature overall. Zinc does not work on the overall temperature of the lubricant, it functions on friction points. A friction point may occur were metal to metal contact happens at an extreme contact point (such as a camshaft lobe when it reaches its maximum point of lift). These friction points inside of an engine using extreme valve spring pressure can go way higher than 1000F temperatures. That is why ZINC as an additive is used to combat wear and extend the life of internally lubricated components. The way of testing oil temperatures as a whole can be done using a gauge in the pan, it is not the same as measuring friction point temperatures at specific locations inside the engine.
Revxoil really doesn't know how the very product he sells works.Adding additional zinc is much more complex because it has to have the correct additive package to be effective..