A/C Leak Testing, Repair, Evac and Recharge (ANY CAR!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2022
- This A/C "class" will be worth sitting through for both the DIYer and the professional. Here is my A/C playlist • A/C and Cooling System...
:55 where to start with any A/C problem
3:00 visual inspection, what a leak looks like
5:40 type of refrigerant oil in a retrofitted system
8:08 how to tell if your A/C compressor is running
10:33 compressed air vs nitrogen to find a leak
14:00 locating a leak with soap/water
16:26 testing an A/C compressor without a refrigerant charge
18:50 pressure testing (max psi)
26:33 pressure decay test after leak repair
31:50 using a micron gauge for leak testing
35:46 adding oil to an A/C system
40:25 decay test with a micron gauge
48:58 charging an A/C system with 12oz cans
53:50 using hot water to charge an A/C system
55:55 in car temperature testing
58:40 what a low charge looks like on your psi gauges
1:02:22 using a sight glass to indicate charge level
1:05:31 how to remove high pressure from your gauges
1:10:44 final comments on a micron gauge (25400 microns in 1" of vacuum)
ScannerDanner Tools:
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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How does this man not have 8 million subscribers. He is a fountain of knowledge and gives so much away for free. The videos are entertaining and he makes complicated things simple. The fact he has on 300k subscribers should be a crime. Keep up the fantastic work Mr. Danner and ALL who work with and help you.
Thank you!
I fully agree!!! I watch TH-cam Videos while having a Beer or twelve to wind down from a busy day... This man has taught me more (In the last Year and a half) how to use my 25 years of multiple Snap On Scanner purchases and updates than any Snap On Video. Since I had to shut down my own shop 3 1/2 years ago, I am done after eventually paying off my Zeus. (Not my shop, not my Payment.) I did Purchase an Autel with it's 4 Channel Lab Scope for $4K and some Videos are easy to translate between it and his PicoScope... Kind of weird that I show up to work at a new place for me, that has been around a while, and all they have is a broken Verus Pro. 2 main Mechanics and a part time Smog Guy. My personal payment Tools are used by all daily. Meanwhile you have idiots making Videos (with as much diagnostic capabilities as a Lube Tech) with 366K Subscribers....
@@XLAND101 Blessed by this comment
Check out t lech as well, another awesome channel focused on automotive HVAC.
Plus hes really just a good dude too
Huge respect to you for being honest and not editing them out when you made small errors, then explaining what went wrong. Then immediately explaining how to avoid those errors. We all make these silly little mistakes
Thank you!
A true teacher.
I love that... These you tubers today make it seem so easy when in fact there were a couple hundred swear words, skinned knuckles, cuts, bruises, etc
Nob
@@carlabromley8891 Any comment coming from a girl or a guy with a girl's name, especially a guy with a lady name about manly things usually holds little weight. nice try though
25:22 Hygroscopic is the word you're looking for ( *not* hyDroscopic as many people incorrectly believe) like DOT3, DOT4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
42:07 That change from 500 to 510 could be as simple as a change in ambient air temperature. Assuming linear gauge accuracy, and no built in hysteresis, it may have been actual 504.9 and increased to 505.1. So a change from 500 to 520 could be as little as 504.9 to 515.1 or as much as 495.1 to 524.9 and still show 500 to 520. All that really matters is that it's not climbing like crazy. That said, you can find cases where a system will hold a vacuum, but not pressure and vice versa - some leaks can annoyingly act like a check valve.
I've had an issue where vacuum held and pressure did not. I never got to make it right for them. It bit me in the bottom.
Wow. Learn something new everyday. I've been in the oil and gas industry for 30+ years and have always said "hydroscopic" (typically relating to ethanol.) I now see that I was incorrect. Thanks for the lesson.
So much to learn from this message but I'm totally lost i love to understand
I think the clear advantage of the micron gauge is to finally verify there is no moisture in the system. On a big system as you vacuum down, the liquid water quickly boils away, but there may be solid ice that doesn't sublimate as fast. The sudden drop in pressure induces a precipitous drop in temperature that can freeze some water, which will be slow to vacuum off. In that case, when you close the system off and wait, the pressure creeps up as that solid water ice sublimates to water vapour. It's a signal you need to vacuum for longer to get the rest of the water.
Correct
how much longer? what indicates long enough, or could overnight be best to be sure?
@@scottneels2628 Charge only in HOT weather.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll wait for summer here in NZ.
I work for an electric company in NYC. When we perform evacs, we bring our vacuum down to under 150 microns. Our rise test is done over 30 minutes and a loss of 100 microns or less is a pass. On my truck, I've system-checked my vacuums, and I can get to 23 microns. All this means nothing in a car, but for moisture-sensitive electrical components working in the 64k to 345k volt range, it's the difference between flowing electricity and a burnout and power loss.
Con Ed gang 🫡
I think his pump had old oil in it. It should have pulled down much lower than the 500 micron he got to
I just discovered the ScannerDanner channel, and just in time. Recently, I noticed that my 2006 Honda Accord's A/C was not blowing nearly as cold as it had in the past years. At 54 years of age, I've only recently gotten over the fear of tackling some of the automotive repairs that are rarely handled in do-it-yourself/backyard repair situations. Thanks to ScannerDanner's (Paul's) great video, I will purchase an A/C manifold kit and a vacuum pump and fix the A/C problem myself. ScannerDanner (Paul), your videos are so valuable. Thanks - and please keep them coming!
Have you tackled Caliper repair? I'm wondering if i should tackle son's car which is a 2004. Im sure the components are old. should I replace both calipers or just the one that freezes up after braking (grabs and doesn't release the rotor.....at least I think
Dude... I LOVE that you made errors because THAT'S exactly how we learn and to see how you correct those issues that many of us (no doubt) will create. These are the BEST videos to learn from, for this exact reason.
Excellent vid. Thanks again
Thank you so much!
I have been a automechanic for over 30 years and I always learn something on your videos. Thank you and keep up the great work.
Hi Paul. Great video. I am a chemist. I was told that the old R12 systems would contain traces of acid due to decomposition of dichlorodifluoromethane (R12). The PAG oils are long chain polymers made from polymerization of glycols. So the ends of these long chains have OH groups (alcohol groups). The alcohol group gets protonated from the acid and the polymer unzips and turns into sludge. By reacting the alcohol groups to make ester groups, there is no longer alcohol groups that can react with acid and the polymer (PAG) backbone stays in tact (ie, does not unzip).
I love these types of responses. Incredible amounts of detail like this is actually excite to learn! I might never use it in a work setting but learning something new is always great!
My brain went to static. 😂
Someone told you all that?
Sounds like a recipe for o-ring failure. In this case could have just been vibration. I'd like to hear your chemist approach for power steering fluid in a brake system.
@@The_RedkweenI just had brain freeze! :D
Im a big fan of your teaching techniques, the way you talk to everyone, and especially your honesty! I have been learning refrigeration for 7+ years now, and I learn so much from you and every project that i do. I think your vacuum pump could possibly pull down below 100 if you let it go long enough, but that's not necassary, however, letting it run for a long time insures that the moisture is removed. I also recommend that you close and open whatever valves you are using a few times during the vacuum process, cause that lets air bubbles and moisture, that is trapped in the valves, free to be evacuated.
You will find that usually your microns will rise a lot more than on this video. As long as they don't rise past a certain point in 10 minutes, you don't have a leak. If you have a leak, they will rise quickly to infinity. I fix freezers, refrigerators, and home AC, and on the small systems I shoot for about 200 and hope it doesn't rise much past 600 in 10 minutes. I don't think I'd be too concerned if it stayed under 1000, but I would probably want to vacuum it for longer anyway. I have the same pump you used, as well as one a little bigger, and i like to leave them running for hours while i go and do something else.
Thanks again for all you do and how you do it. YOU ARE THE BEST!
A very good and humble teacher. I'm still learning the whole AC thing and you definitely just added wisdom to my small brain. Thank you.
This dude is the epitome of a straight up professional who stays true to his backyard mechanic roots..
I fixed my ac on my little work van earlier this spring with your tips and guidance...needed a condenser and some small stuff but everything i did i learned on this channel. Thanks for what you do 👍
Awesome! Thank you
As a DIYer this was a great video as usual. Your "gift of gab" just adds to the video. Thank you.
Thank you William!
To prevent having to remove your micron gauge find and purchase a 90° ball valve that goes between the micron gauge and the hose so that you can isolate the gauge without having to remove it
Yeah I made it all the way and i did learn how to work on the AC system. Thanks for everything !
A digital micron guage is a great insight into vacuum but pressure decay testing with digital manifold gauges at 150 to 200 psi is a more real world test. I've found many systems hold a good vacuum but can't hold a pressure test. Great video and camera work as always 👍😁
I agree. I do both tests, pressure and vacuum
This is a great vid. DIYers learn a bunch. I consider myself a DIYer even though I got 100% in automotive A/C instruction during 4th year apprentice motor mechanic schooling. Use it or lose it. There is so much.
Thanks
A couple quick side notes I'd like to add;
- With regard to the micron gauge, I've seen a lot of HVAC guys use a schrader on the port or a ball valve to valve off the micron gauge, and to prevent atmospheric air entering the system, they will charge until the pressure is equal to or marginally greater than atmosphere so that when they remove the micron gauge, atmospheric air can't rush in.
On the note of wasting your R134a by charging a leaking system, excluding the part where refrigerants are bloody expensive... here's what you should keep in mind with an R12, R22 or R134a system;
Luckily, unlike R12 or R22, R134a isn't a CFC, it's a HFC. therefore doesn't deplete the ozone layer. It's also not toxic either, which does mean that is safer to discharge to atmosphere... but the other impacts it has make these still a bad idea. R134a is an extremely dense gas. If discharged over a pit, it will accumulate in that pit. R134a is known as an asphyxiant, as it is capable of displacing air in the lungs and is hard to expel, so it should not be inhaled or discharged over a pit. It's also a potent greenhouse gas. These reasons combined are why you can't legally discharge an entire AC system straight to atmosphere, and you *MUST* use a recovery machine with a tank attached. Some purging is allowed for obvious reasons, as the amount of gas lost is very minimal and has no real effect environmentally.
Newer AC systems that use the R290 gas, however, can be safely discharged to atmophere, as the gas used is pure propane, which doesn't have the same effects as R134a. It's not a heavy gas, so easily disperses. R290 is also a very light hydricarbon that doesn't pose a greenhouse effect, it doesn't deplete the ozone layer either. Anyone discharging an R290 system though needs to be aware that the refrigerant is propane. it's extremely flammable, therefore should only be discharged away from sparks or open flames, and in a very well ventillated area to prevent a gas explosion.
Great tips! Thank you
Great step by step Paul for us novices on A/C diagnosis and repair. Thanks so much for sharing.
best demo gauges, home charging , high/low readings, clean air safety. I've read and watched many, this was the clearest. GREAT JOB.
Thank you Brian!
I've always loved the system with a built-in sight glass because it'll truly tell you what condition the system is in whether you have enough for too little refrigerant even though the manifold gauge set has one
There is so much good old school classic basics going on here, that I thought someone might have had a Close Encounter with the Third Kind.
I might share this video as a Primer (not a primer) to my Techs at work.
Nicely done, thank you for your content and accuracy.
Thank you!
I know people are going to say I'm a fool, but I've started converting all R12 designed systems to R152a instead of R134a. I get it out of computer duster cans with a can tap. It runs at lower pressure than R134a, and has very similar properties to R12. It's molecular weight is 66.05 g/mol vs 120.90 g/mol for R12, so a charge only uses 55 percent of the weight of R12. On most vehicles it's under 28 ounces, which is less then 2 cans. Yes it is considered semi flammable, but it does not give a flame extension or flashback in the standard test used to measure the flammability of aerosol products. It's already used in some industries, it was actually tested by the automotive industry to replace R134a but the manufactures decided to go with R1234YF. R1234YF has the exact same flammability class rating as R152a, A2 rating. They both have the same GWP rating also, at 0. You also drive around with 15-20 gallons of highly flammable gas in your vehicle, so I wouldn't worry much about 25 ounces of mildly flammable gas that's already being used in newer vehicles.
I used to have a 280zx (same engine just older model) and it was faster than most people think they are! And super fun to drive. Enjoyed your vid!!
FYI, after you take the hose off the vac pump and connect the hose up to the R134a you are to remove the center cap off the line set manifold and purge the hose with R134a until you see it in the site glass window. Then you can open up the low side and charge the system. Thanks for the videos!!! God Bless!!!
IT'S HOT! I do A/C systems and I'm GETTING ME ONE OF THOSE micron gauge! Amazon here we come! 🤣
Scanner Danner; the best example of AC work I've seen on the internet, thanks so much for the mistake examples and the correction of information..! You're the best..! Regards Joseph
Wow, thanks!
never rely on schrader valves to keep air from entering when under a vacuum, they're designed to hold pressure from the inside seal end and not a vacuum with air pushing in from outside, they'll easily open and allow air in. you very likely let in air when you closed the low side adapter and removed it. same for the self sealing/low loss hoses, they're all made to hold pressure, not vacuum.
you should use good ball valves to isolate things and cycle them half/part way closed a few times, as there's voids in them that hold air around the ball and that releases making the vacuum drop when cycled. it's a good idea to charge as much liquid as possible into the high side first (with engine off!) then you can close it and finish charging through low side with vehicle running.
Yep.
throttle bottle - damn, i've gotta watch the video again hahaha. i've got a set of fairly cheap ($300) gauges coming in next couple of days. i got em cuz i've gotta do my 2001 silverado & a couple of other buddies rigs. will be my first time doing AC so i've been watching a bunch of videos. can you walk me through what kind of valves to get etc.? would i install them on the end of the vacuum/high/low side hoses... like attach them to the factory ends where they install into the actual gauges or somehow replace the ends that connect to the hi/low service ports themselves? am i making sense? if you're too busy i totally understand, your comment just really interested me, thanks:) barbie
@@8barbies779 it's really not that crucial. Miniscule amounts moisture that gets in from disconnecting fittings and switching the the other cans, etc. should be absorbed by the drier.
New subscriber just think your approach is authentic and realistic and love that you dont edit out the things that make you human. You clearly have the gift of gab but also clearly understand that the more we learn the more it becomes obvious how much we dont know. Even a master in their trade will be learning with each project they do! Great content
Thank you so much and welcome to my channel! Looking forward to hearing from you more in the future
That time of year!!!!! Another great video Paul Danner! Once again you teach the whole diagnostic process!!🙏🙏
Since watching your videos I now ALWAYS pressure test my ac repairs and VACUUM test. Thanks for the tips!
Well Danner I was on my way out of the industry and it didn’t end up happening I’ve been working at an independent chain shop the last couple years and they didn’t want to pay me more but want me to keep doing more work which I didn’t have a problem with at first to show them what I could do but now you know and don’t want to pay what I’m worth I was headed to a factory job and a local dealership was looking for help they are going to pay me almost 3 dollars an hour more to start and offer me all the factory training to increase my pay so it looks like I’m sticking around
AC systems are one of the more tedious repairs with customers. It behooves the technician to be upfront with the customer. An older system may require lengthy diagnosis to repair, on top of costly components & book time. It can quickly turn a 120 dollar job into a 1200 dollar job. There is no room for shortcuts. If everything isn't working harmoniously, then it won't work at all. What's dreadful about the repair, is that most people don't care/notice the worn ball joint. They instantly notice the AC when they hit the button on a 90 degree day. They want it working, and working yesterday. Some will spare no expense to have it repaired. Many will question you. Be upfront before you sell the job.
I don’t watch your channel enough. I pledge to watch everyone of your videos. I like how you OVER EXPLAIN and diverge from the topic. Keep it real. Thank you Dan… I mean Paul
Thank you Joe! Look forward to watching your progression as you do!
Nice teachings! I always learn, even when I do this for living as a active field Technician. Thank you a lot. God bless you
I don't have a compressed nitrogen cylinder. I have several argon cylinders. I've always used dry compressed air to leak check in the past. I have a really great dry air system for painting. Learn something new every day, I didn't know about the acid problem with "air". I am all for doing everything I do as correctly as possible. But honestly if an AC system is at 0 psi it has atmospheric air in the system. If you replace a component and break the system it has atmospheric air in the system. But, going forward, now that I know better, I'll be using argon to leak check.
Argon is expensive as hell! N2 is a lot cheaper.
If it’s truly “DRY” how is it going to form acid in the AC system? I’m calling bullshit here. Sounds like something that relates to wet shop air and is likely very overblown by HVAC companies. If anyone has supporting literature ( not advertising) I’d be open to new information
I was watching the show you did a year or so ago using nitrogen to find the leaks without damaging the system. So today falls right at the proper time. Thank You I have learned a lot since I discovered your channel about a year ago!
Thank you! Some additional safety things discussed in this one and then I introduce a micron gauge (first time I've used one)
I also would like to Thank You for your teaching you have a natural way to make my old mind click and I have been able to use your knowledge to help me as a 69 yr old man to keep on trying to fix my vehicles cause I don’t have extra money to pay a shop. Next is finding the leak in my 98 dodge V10 a/c unit. You truly are a God send to people such as myself and not afraid to try. I was a carpenter in my younger life and self taught
@@gregskibinski9937 glad you are here Greg and I really appreciate you. Thank you!
I have been watching your video's for years and I just want to say thanks for all your help!!!! it means a lot to me and you have saved me soooooooooo much money, just doing the work myself!!!!!
The best video for diy people on this subject, no question. Step by step ac repair, and a gentleman who cares about the environment too. Thank you Sir, your videos are always extremely informative. If you ever come up Toronto way, adult beverages of your choice will be bestowed upon you.
For that car, I would've replaced the receiver/dryer. It's old and rotten, by now, and you had the system empty, anyway. You might've had drier and colder air if the receiver/drier was replaced.
Yeah I always replace the accumulator/filter dryer just cause the system is open, like you said the things are blown out after years of use. Pretty cheap insurance for most cars
SD AC videos are my absolute favorite. It’s what brought me to the channel like 5 or 6 years ago.
I can sit a watch these videos all day! Well done my 88 sits right at 40 degrees very nice with Louisiana weather 👌🏾
Great video Danner.Never new about the micron gauge..I've always relied on the vacuum. Thanks again
Most a lot of shops would have called that o ring a bad condenser, and of the compressor now needs to be replaced. That’ll be $2000 thank you very much!!
Man, Paul, I just love your videos. You are such an awesome teacher, a great dad and just seem like an all around good dude. Anyway, I like your process here.
Thanks so much Mark. Really appreciated this comment
Another good video Paul from A/C Repairs 😆. Appreciate the content mate always very knowledgeable and informative. A/C systems are always one of those areas technicians can use a brush up on. 👍🏻
Also so you know I get a ton of work to redo other people’s crappy work. And I have picked up a ton of diag and repairs thanks to you.
Excellent video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Its so refreshing to listen to a "how to" from someone who obviously recieved a good solid education and a great grasp on the fundamentals of vacuum vs pressure.
Thanks so much 😊
Thank you!
Great video Paul and Calib and at UTI Refrigeration School they taught using only crushed ice and water for calibrating temp gauges as that guarantees that you are at 32 degrees. Either way
you are going to get closer than 75 degrees LOL. Awesome knowledge learned from you always, thanks so much.
Thank Danner for the detail explanations and demonstrations,you are better than a AC tech.
Nice routine you have there Paul for checking for leaks, and making sure to boil off all the moisture with a vacuum pump. I haven’t used a micron gauge but I feel comfortable as long as I get down below 28-29 in vacuum and it holds for 15 mins I’m happy. Thanks as always Paul for sharing your repairing. I learn a lot from you.
Always gain a ton of knowledge from your videos!! You're such a humble man. I'll keep watching as long as you keep posting vids. Wish I could attend your class one of these day.
Thank you Joe! You can always join me remotely here
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Hope to see you there!
Thanks Paul, informative as ever. Just renewed a condenser on a Mr2 Mk3 today, back is feeling it lol
Great video Paul as always know what your talking about with the heat,it's been a scorcher here in Michigan.Your sons Nissan 300zx brings back memories.Try and keep cool Paul and hope the family is doing well.God bless.
Super cool video. I've got two cars that need this kind of attention. Thanks for posting!
Top of the line video as always SD. Keep up the good work
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. What a perfect AC basics video for us Diy'rs.
Thank you!
Hello,
thanks for good explanation, so everyone can understand. You go in depth with the problem and that is very good.
I recommend that people watch your channel, you are legend.
Thank you for showing your work, and not editing out the mistakes.
My pleasure!
Great job…
Like your video…
Thanks 🙏 for all time making videos.
Man I really like this guy and his channel. Lots of helpful and useful information from this man.
Thank you and welcome! Really appreciate this feedback
Hi Paul,
I worked on many John Deere tractors with R12 and TEV systems. When charging the system after pulling a vacuum, I would always fill the Hi side first, engine off of course. As the system filled I would watch the lo side. If the lo side came up nice and steady it meant the TEV was in good shape. If the lo side just stays in a vacuum there is a problem. I watched the lo side in your video as you began to fill and it came up nice and steady.
On the tractors we also used retro fit kits to go to R134A.
I learned from a commercial A/C guy to fill with the can upside down (liquid) and stay under 40psi on the low side as you fill. Didn't have any problems. With the can up (vapor) it takes forever.
Great video.
Thank you so much for this, especially for leaving in your little miss takes for me to learn from. I toally would've done them all probably. I really appreciate you taking the time to do this one.
Thank you Scott!
love this information you gave and the couple of new tricks you showed thank you and always keep up the work
thank you guys for the job you are doing,real life scenario its what teach us more
Love the AC videos Paul. It’s the little details about diagnosis of what symptoms like bubbles in the sight glass mean. I might not remember what that means but I’ll remember to re-watch this video if I see that issue. Thanks for sharing your knowledge again 👍
Thank you Russell
Hey Paul my name is Michael been a mechanic out here in phx. AZ for over 40 years. Anyways been watching your videos for at least 10 years, Someone else said your a fountain of knowledge, I can not think of a better fitting compliment for you. Your AWESOME!! Anyways just for your 411 if you put one of those little desicant compressor dryers on your compressor hose 6- 8 dollars and Compressed air I can only get up to 150 psi but that is usually plenty, As hot as it gets out here you really have to pay attention to your pressure to temp relationship. Before 4-5 pm you can raise up to 10 psi in no time, and actually overlook a leak. Also your emphasis on oil overcharge is great I see it quit frequently. Please Please Keep up the great work and the awesome videos!!! I strive on saving poeple money and you have definately helped me to do it better!!! (while keeping my bills paid) Sincerely, Mike Rowe Rowe's Restorations Ps. GLAD to finally know your name!!!
Such a great comment! Thank you! And great tip on the compressed air variable too! You thought I was "Dan" didn't you? Nice to meet you @Tia Cohen
Hey Mike. My name is Michael. I live in SoCal. I don’t follow your comment about you rising 10 psi and missing a leak. What piece of knowledge were you trying to share? So you always use compressed air with a dryer to pressure test your system?
I dont remember how I+ stated it, however it is very important to remember as tempeture rises so does the pressure
Hey Paul. Great to see another excellent video.
The good with the bad is real time live. I’m about to fix my F150 ac so this help a lot. Thanks for this education about refrigeration and pressures. ✅.
As hey dude said. I second that for not editing. Keeping it real. Thank you
Hands down, best AC recharge video on YT
Thank you Paul for explaining the micron gauge at the end! I knew they were sensitive but not that much! I'm going to have to add one of those to my "trick bag". We're dealing with a lot of the new 1234 systems now that hold less than 1 lbs of freon, so I can see how a micro gauge can be very useful.
Thank you! Crazy once I realized how small a micron actually was lol
Amazing. Explains step by step in a an amazing way. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hello sir, I enjoyed watching you fix you sons car. Your very knowledgeable on a/c work.
hi yall mr scanner Danner ...keep up the good work. educating the youngsters and the older folks like me
One technique that I just tried a few minutes ago while topping up my Integra to check the Schrader's after I was done was to back off the valves but leave them on, discharge both hoses through the manifold valves and close them again. Wait awhile to see if the hoses repressurize. They will climb a little bit anyway the first time or two that you close them but then they should stay at zero forever.
I didn't know for years and years that you can turn the nitrogen tank valve on to check its pressure just by backing the regulator off. No hose is needed.
With the regulator turned down to zero the amazing regulator holds back 2000 psi from coming out the output.
The night mare leak is to have a compressor shaft seal leaking only at pressures above 300 psi.
My dump truck had such an leak. It would hold 200 psi on the nitrogen test all day long. Same with vacuum test but wouldn't stay charged two weeks.
I went most of one summer without AC but one hot day in August I decided to charge it up and have air just a little while.
This time it didnt stay charged all day.
I got home did a 200 psi nitrogen test and it held rock solid. I never could see any dye at the compressor or soap bubbles. So next morning I ordered a new compressor and that fixed it.
Thanks for all your amazing contributions Scanner!😎
The ac gas light is connected to a superheat switch. It will illuminate when the system is running and low on gas. If it's flat empty it should not illuminate after the engine is running. It will light for bulb check.
Hello Paul. Back when I was doing retrofits, I would use a fairly large blower type fan in front of the condenser to simulate road wind. Then put the car to a high idle (1800 rpm or so). Add refrigerant while watching the register output temperature. The temperature will go down to a point then start to rise as the system starts to reach an over full condition. This obviously needs to be done slowly and carefully but I had excellent results.
Long video but I watched every second of it. Thank you so much for reaching me and the rest of us.
You are so welcome!
As someone who's converted some of those old NIssans from R12 to R134, the condenser makes a big difference. If you swap the original condenser with a custom parallel flow unit designed for R134 the head pressure goes down by 30-50PSI and the thing will hit 40 no problem. The cost isn't too bad either $150 or so and the system works better than what it did with R12.
Great tip!
Awesome job, absolutely LOVE the honesty great job of explaining this process thx S.D 💪🏾👍🏾😊
It's unreal how good this is. Thanks man
wow, thank you so much! what made it so good? This is the most popular video I have done in years and I'm trying to put my finger on why?
A really slick modern oil is called PAG100 "Double End Capped"(molecule). It is fully compatible with all things R12 and R134a. You can switch refrigerants without changing out the oil.
I am in the process of troubleshooting my 1997 Ford Aerostar AC - about a year ago, it dumped a bunch of oil suddenly on a concrete slab. It was not motor oil or transmission or power steering or coolant or brakes, so it had to be from the AC system. Over the course of a few days after the dump, the AC was not cooling and I have not used it since. Just now getting around to trying to fix it. Your video is the most thorough and instructive and encouraging I have found so far. I hope to have my system figured out soon based on information you shared. Thank you so much.
Awesome! Thank you
Thank you so much.i know no thing about car ac,but now i feel that i learned a lot.thanks
Hello Paul, great video. I'm fixing my car and uploading videos. Among all the issues, I had an A/C leak. Your video has been helpful for my series. Thank you and congratulations!
Awesome! Tag me in it please . Thank you!
This young man is exceptionally good, period.
your videos came to great help to take care of my cars, Thank you so much.
I seem to have alot of intermittents with things so I made a small led power indicator board with 6 ckts and long leads so I can drive time monitor things, ive actually run a trip with the guages hooked up for 8 hrs lol, but it solved what the issue was. hygroscopic is the word you were looking for, they make a shutoff valve that fits between the micron and the line fitting.
A micron gauge is used to determine if there is moister in the system not to prove a leak in the system. Everything Doctor Paul shows In this video is perfectly good practice. He is very knowledgeable.
Is it not both? Thanks!
False. A micron gauge is used to measure vacuum on a system. Ideally you should vacuum a system down to under 500 microns to boil off moisture in the system. The purpose of pulling a vacuum is not to pull the refrigerant back into the system. The purpose is to eliminate moisture.
You can go to auto paint supply store and get a filter for paint gun and filter out the moisture in ur compressor lines before you pressure a/c system with compressor air😊
Thank you so much. This is the best ac lesson I have ever had.
Great to hear! Thank you Martin!
I had a lot of fun watching the video, thank you for your great work
Loved this video so much! Thanks for all of the little details. I'm over near McMurray. I have a son, Jake, with no ac too. Gonna figure it out!
Small world! Thanks so much.
We are in McMurray all thr time
hey Paul. Another awesome video. I haven't seen a sight glass in many years. thanks for posting this video. This is the first time I've ever seen or heard of a micron gauge. very interesting.thanks for explaining the works of the micron gauge.
My first time using it too, thanks!
At 23:55, ScannerDanner (Paul) listens to some chirping birds and then points out that we are hearing a Cardinal and also a Robin: "I'm learning my birds. As I get older, I enjoy those things. As I young man, I never cared." Priceless! This guy is great. Who could possibly dislike this man? And he's a wealth of automotive knowledge.
Thank you Lawrence!
Love that old Power Wagon in the background!
Scanner fantastic video. Love when you realize ahh I screwed up, keeping your wits about yourself while smoothly figure out the fix. You are a slick mechanic with plenty of smarts. You may think yer a gas bag but that keeps the video exciting an myself focused on what yer putting out. I'm sure yer son is proud to have you as a dad and mentor in his life.
Your videos are always packed with information.
Thanks so much Mark!