Nice! Simple but effective! I'm going to make this sled for mine. I agree with the gentleman's suggestion about the depth stop screw. My saw has it and I'm fairly certain your saw does as well. Thanks for the time to make this vid!
I made the same table except I made t grooves on each side of the blade so I could use a clamp,,the clamp is a long carriage bolt with a large plastic knob that goes thru a piece of wood,,i just slide it in place and tighten it down,,,works really good
nice idea I'm wondering if your saw has the depth stop feature on the side? If it does you might want to set it so you don't go down any further accidentally. Its just a flip stop that has a threaded screw to adjust how deep it actually cuts. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I KNOW every time I cut a small piece of wood it WILL fly through the back guard. One piece actually had enough force to smash the waste pipe others have actually slipped throught the saw slot. I will follow your suggestion but I will cut drop slots into the back guard plate and screw coach bolts into the rear of the zero clearance. Thank you for pointing out the bleeding oblivious. I have zero clearance plate on my table saw. I sometimes worry about me.
Thank you for your video. I just has a piece of aluminium tube flying around the workshop as I was trying to cut a small piece off the end and "balanced" it on the fence. Your zero clearance sled would have prevented it from catching in the blade and will give a better cut. Thats one job sorted then.......now how do you prevent someone being stupid..... Many thanks again.
I coulda used this a few months ago. I helped my daughter install laminate flooring but where I would have used it is on the trim. the corners in her house are not 90 degrees. They are compound angles and I had to cut small pieces on those. The tiny pieces I was cutting was always getting knocked to the back and I had to keep an eye out otherwise I would lose them.
Good informative video, if for example you were going to cut a 1x6 could you add some height under the zero clearance table, that would allow the blade to cut the wider stock possibly saving the short kerf that has been established, Just a thought, liked the video, good job Thanks
I think I'll do something like this to REPLACE the factory fence system, which seems like it's maybe warped a bit and is preventing me from being able to make square cuts.
Nice idea.the only inconvenient is: to cut 45s or other miter cut you have to remove the jig and install again because you don't see the numbers on your saw. Thanks for sharing.
Maybe I'm not thinking correctly, but if you made that platform wider, you could have put your 45 cuts on either side and just use the one jig. You could also add more pegs to align those, or whatever. Not sure how well it would work out, it was just a thought.
Mario, good idea. However, I think the pegs for the 90° would prevent the other pegs from seating properly when you slide it left or right, respectfully, for the 45° cut.
Colby Carnes what a lot of great ideas you had for one video! Thanks. To springboard off Mario and modify and Idea you had: why not widen the sled over the edge of the base, as you suggested, but drill 1/2” holes in series, to be used with a 1/2” peg to locate the sled at different points for the various angled cuts. Also, another board glued, or a piece of aluminum angle screwed, across the front edge of the sled will make up for the loss of rigidity after the through-cuts, extending the life of the sled.
For what he's doing, yes. He's cutting small stock to make fishing lures (plugs, like he said). So, he probably wants as little waste as possible, and he's not trying to cut for rough construction like 2.x4s, and 4x4s, etc. If you want to cut lumber for things like framing or building decks, etc., then use a 24 or 40 tooth blade. If you use an 80 tooth blade on a 4 x 4, it'll take longer. It'll still work, but you don't need to.
this is a good idea, but the chances of a small piece jamming in the saw, is about 1 in 100,000,000 another words, it would never happen. Someone is probably had that happen to him, but it will most likely never happen.
I use a miter saw almost everyday, and yes I agree you can get a peice stuck but it is not often. i was wrong about that post. i posted that about 1 year ago
Thank you for this great video, very well explained and presented with fantastic tips, especially the dowel inserts for accuracy.
Thank you again
Sam
Add screws and attach the sled to the actual miter saw fence...most have holes already and if not just drill a couple threw the fence...easy peasy!
Well done. The solid large base looks like so much safer. Great video.
Nice! Simple but effective! I'm going to make this sled for mine. I agree with the gentleman's suggestion about the depth stop screw. My saw has it and I'm fairly certain your saw does as well. Thanks for the time to make this vid!
Nice! Great idea with dowels.
I made the same table except I made t grooves on each side of the blade so I could use a clamp,,the clamp is a long carriage bolt with a large plastic knob that goes thru a piece of wood,,i just slide it in place and tighten it down,,,works really good
Very well done and thank you for a great demo.
nice idea I'm wondering if your saw has the depth stop feature on the side? If it does you might want to set it so you don't go down any further accidentally. Its just a flip stop that has a threaded screw to adjust how deep it actually cuts. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I KNOW every time I cut a small piece of wood it WILL fly through the back guard. One piece actually had enough force to smash the waste pipe others have actually slipped throught the saw slot. I will follow your suggestion but I will cut drop slots into the back guard plate and screw coach bolts into the rear of the zero clearance. Thank you for pointing out the bleeding oblivious. I have zero clearance plate on my table saw. I sometimes worry about me.
Frederick Ippolito
1 second ago · Shared publicly
I just got the same saw. Thanks for the good tutorial and attention to safety.
Excellent video. Very informative.
Thank you for your video. I just has a piece of aluminium tube flying around the workshop as I was trying to cut a small piece off the end and "balanced" it on the fence. Your zero clearance sled would have prevented it from catching in the blade and will give a better cut. Thats one job sorted then.......now how do you prevent someone being stupid..... Many thanks again.
great video and process. Thanks for sharing.
Good video and great build but why in hell did you use those ( looks like ) 3" screws in the backing board at the 2:35 time line?????
I coulda used this a few months ago. I helped my daughter install laminate flooring but where I would have used it is on the trim. the corners in her house are not 90 degrees. They are compound angles and I had to cut small pieces on those. The tiny pieces I was cutting was always getting knocked to the back and I had to keep an eye out otherwise I would lose them.
Good informative video, if for example you were going to cut a 1x6 could you add some height under the zero clearance table, that would allow the blade to cut the wider stock possibly saving the short kerf that has been established,
Just a thought, liked the video, good job
Thanks
Thanks! Great idea and great presentation.
Good video, but I found myself wondering about whether or not the cuts would be square ??
I think I'll do something like this to REPLACE the factory fence system, which seems like it's maybe warped a bit and is preventing me from being able to make square cuts.
Nice idea.the only inconvenient is: to cut 45s or other miter cut you have to remove the jig and install again because you don't see the numbers on your saw. Thanks for sharing.
Good job and explanation.
Maybe I'm not thinking correctly, but if you made that platform wider, you could have put your 45 cuts on either side and just use the one jig.
You could also add more pegs to align those, or whatever.
Not sure how well it would work out, it was just a thought.
Mario, good idea. However, I think the pegs for the 90° would prevent the other pegs from seating properly when you slide it left or right, respectfully, for the 45° cut.
Colby Carnes what a lot of great ideas you had for one video! Thanks. To springboard off Mario and modify and Idea you had: why not widen the sled over the edge of the base, as you suggested, but drill 1/2” holes in series, to be used with a 1/2” peg to locate the sled at different points for the various angled cuts. Also, another board glued, or a piece of aluminum angle screwed, across the front edge of the sled will make up for the loss of rigidity after the through-cuts, extending the life of the sled.
mine didn't end up perfectly square...probably not good for frame making.
I noticed that you are using an 80 tooth blade. Is that what you recommend for the results of you sled?
For what he's doing, yes. He's cutting small stock to make fishing lures (plugs, like he said). So, he probably wants as little waste as possible, and he's not trying to cut for rough construction like 2.x4s, and 4x4s, etc. If you want to cut lumber for things like framing or building decks, etc., then use a 24 or 40 tooth blade. If you use an 80 tooth blade on a 4 x 4, it'll take longer. It'll still work, but you don't need to.
great idea
Dude, I cant get past that wobbly saw.
Wobbly saw phobia?
this is a good idea, but the chances of a small piece jamming in the saw, is about 1 in 100,000,000 another words, it would never happen. Someone is probably had that happen to him, but it will most likely never happen.
guess you do not have much saw time……..saftey first
I use a miter saw almost everyday, and yes I agree you can get a peice stuck but it is not often. i was wrong about that post. i posted that about 1 year ago
Pretty common when making end cuts to square. Why many use a zero clearance insert. Its a pain to clear or bevel