Thank you! This video saved me hundreds on a repair call! I ended up just putting the ice maker to the side when taking the vertical air duct off and putting on because I just couldn't remove the water supply line and I was worried that I wouldn't be able to reattach it if it was so difficult to attach. It worked out! Thanks again!
Fantastic step-by-step; thanks! You mention that the screws for the evaporator cover are important to "prevent future issues". Can you elaborate on the issues? Are they associated with airflow bypassing the flow ports? Will it cause icing, or just reduce cooling efficiency? Thanks again for a great instructional video!
Unfortunately, I’ve had to do this 4 times over the last year...just finished another one last night. Thank you for your video, followed your instructions to a “T” for the first two times. At the third time, I decided to figure out an easier way. And it’s worked both times, including a disassembly I did last night. Basically, I bypass everything you do with the roof/water lines/ice maker and go straight to the cooling tower retaining tabs on the back wall, which I loosen with a flathead screwdriver. I use the same flathead screwdriver to pry the cooling tower upward...it only needs a fraction of an inch (I was so nervous the first time, that I’d snap the plastic, but it’s very pliable), and as you can see in your video, there’s no lip or anything on the lower cover that prevents it from sliding forward once it clears that fraction of an inch. Anyone who has to do this multiple times might appreciate the time saver, and as a bonus, you still have the fridge LED lights on, and in place to see what you’re doing.
How does the coil defrost? Fan runs.Mine was frozen over. Can't seem to see how it defrost or a t stat. I have a slight rip in door gaaket..could it just have been over worked?
Okay Steve the appliance guy here in Las Vegas so what was left out in this video is something very important first of all if you're taking apart the cover on the evaporator you're doing it for a reason and that is to replace the evaporator fan thermistor assembly. Most of these four door and five-door French door Whirlpool refrigerators had a built-in defect in the evaporator fan assembly as follows the brass thermistor on the evaporator coil will usually be a dark black because it has burned out and that is because the thermistor has been placed in the wrong part of the evaporator coil when you replace the evaporator fan assembly you must put the brass thermostat on the back coil not the front coil that has the capillary tube attached it MUST be placed on the back coil and thoroughly tied down with a tie wrap. You can find a video from Repair Clinic on how to do this correctly the four and five draw French door refrigerator evaporator fan assemblies are exactly the same. If you place the brass thermostat on the front coil with a capillary tube you will get a call back in 3 weeks for the same icing problem I know been there already happened to me in thank God it was actually my best friend here in Las Vegas that discovered this defect and reported it to Whirlpool it is now part of a Whirlpool service bulletin for across the country. And yes to all DIY ers. You must be very patient when doing this procedure follow this video it will take you some time especially if you're a rookie😀😀😀
Perfect your video did the trick All it was was ice build up rubbing against the fan blades. Why does ice build up? Maybe i can keep it from happening again
Great video very interesting question what's the part number for the closure of the refrigerator door that goes into the top portion to avoid air escapes need one of those. Thanks in advance
I have a Whirlpool french door model that I want to replace the water line from the inlet valve to the filter. I see you removed the top cover to the filter by prying from the front. I have removed the 2 screws near the filter and have pried to hearts content but the cover will not release from its hidden tabs. Do you have any tips as to just where the cover is fastened?
Love your videos. Do you have a video on disassembling the freezer drawer? We have a “rattle” in the fan behind the back panel of the freezer and want to check to make sure nothing is stuck in on it. Thanks
Great video. I have the same refrigerator. The side lights and the light in the freezer not working and I guess these are in same series. Can you suggest any troubleshooting tips? Thanks.
Great video! Question, I have this exact unit. The bulk of the fan noise is coming from the freezer section at the bottom. Does the steps for disassembling the top refrigerator section still apply when trying to fix the sound coming from freezer?
THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO MAN! I have a job where the evap on this model is so frozen that the customer can't get the bottom drawer to close because there is so much frost built up. That explained why her fridge was warm.
there is a yellow rig where the waterline inters the valve. take a screwdriver and push on that yellow ring, then pull on the clearish white water line. be sure to push the yellow ring first before pulling the line or it wont come out. to reinstall the water line, just insert back in the valve at the yellow ring and push firmly until it stops, and you are done.
Hey BAR, I have this same fridge. Last night it started leaking water. It appears the water is coming from somewhere in the area of the compressor you are showing how to access in this video, is filling the bottom tray area under the meat drawer and then running out the front door area. Are there any water connections in that area that could be the culprit? I couldn't tell with the quick peak you gave after removing the cover.
Very useful, thank you! I had to replace the sensors that are part of the cooling fan and managed to do so thanks to this video. I did manage to get the air tower thing off the back wall without pulling the ice maker.
Kitchenaid ksf26c6xyy keeps breaking the wiring harness at the bottom of the freezer Two wire continue to break, even after repair by solder and wire nuts. can that wiring harness be replaced.
Would you have a video on how to disassemble a very similar Whirlpool refer except that it has the extra fresh food drawer that has the flexible electrical conduit that moves in and out with the drawer? I plan on changing the evaporator fan motor
Oh lord. That is a nightmare. I wish you well and hope you have the patience for it. I have only had to take one of them apart and I can't even begin to tell you how I did it other than I didn't do it the right way. I wish you luck!
Also, In order to remove the air tower you only have to remove the water filter duct only. No need to take the ice maker area out. Had everything out, and out of the way in less than 10 minutes, including the air tower and evap cover. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction
@@BeardedApplianceRepair so if my defroster isn't working, our initial courses of action should be to take out and test the defroster thermostat. Seems that would be the most logical thing to do rather than replace the control board. And just to make sure I'm tracking, newer Whirlpool fridges (5 years and newer) do not have the analog defrost timers I'm seeing when I Google this issue. It's all electronic now...which makes sense why I can't locate a defrost timer on this thing lol
With this fridge I recommend calling a repair company. This fridge gives me more trouble than any other fridge. I have been to some that I simply couldn’t figure out what was going on with it. These are the most complicated fridges I have worked on. I don’t want you to pull your hair out trying to figure this thing out lol.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair thanks!! I've got the fridge pretty much torn apart at this point with all the shelving taken out. It needed to be deep cleaned anyways lol since I've got the bottom freezer drawer and shelving removed with access to the defrost thermostat and heater, I figure I'll try my luck with replacing the defrost thermostat since it's a cheap and relatively easy fix. If that doesn't work, I'll be giving someone a call. Gonna visit my local appliance parts store today to see if anyone there has any ideas. Thanks!
GREAT Video! Two questions... 1. Who made this for Kitchen Aid? 2. I have to replace the drip pan in the FF section "leaking onto floor "inside the FF section" under crisper drawer", do I have to remove all of this to get to it? Thanks very much!!!
Thanks for the awesome video. I’ve already had to clean out the defrost system p-trap when my freezer wasn’t defrosting. Just had to do the fridge and your video made it so much easier not having to figure it out myself.
Hi Bar, I have an issue with ice build up. The defrost sensor is on the evaporator like you said, and I changed the defrost setting to basic, so it’s set to defrost every 8 hours....but it’s still icing up. What else could it be?
Did I also say these thing are the bane of my existance? Haven't been able to figure it out further. Other techs have told me that the control board was the issue on other models but not sure how true that is or common. There are like 3 control boards on these. Worst refrigerators ever made in my opinion. They look great but are way too complicated. Over engineered for sure.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Exactly what I was thinking....over engineered, I was reading the same about it might be control board. You're right there are 3 control boards. How do I know which one to replace?
Hi need some help with my french door refrigerator. Its cooling the guy came and bypass a part thats feeds the evaporator coils and still not cooling need some assistance plz
Yes if it’s the evaporator drain pan in the fresh food section. Pan comes out from behind so you need to pull the evaporator housing too to remove it out the back.
If you don’t put those screws in it can cause an air leak which will cause ice build up problem similar to a no defrost issue. You will be driving yourself crazy if you do not know how important those screws are. Great question!
Bearded Appliance Repair well, that makes perfect sense. We bought our fridge used, and have had it ice up twice now; the two attachment points for the screws had been removed. The new cover is coming tomorrow. Thanks, great video!
Andrew Poler when you have it apart make sure the defrost sensor is in the right spot as well. If the sensor is located on the copper loop move it down to the evaporator. The evaporator is black. You will see a little ridge after the black shrink wrap. Put it in the other side of the ridge. It may be already there so just make sure it’s in the evaporator. One last thing. Make sure the defrost setting is set to basic. Find the tech sheet and I believe it’s test 7 or 8, maybe even nine. Reference the tech sheet to make sure. On one of those tests you can change the defrost setting from adaptive to basic. Make sure it’s in basic. These little details can help your situation as well. Good luck!
Bearded Appliance Repair - Question: did they place these on the copper loop at the factory? Mine was on the loop, about 2.5” from black, so I moved it down about 4 inches, after reading your suggestion
Yes. There was a service Pointer out there for certain models made in a specific time frame. Can’t tell you the specifics other than what to look for and what to do if you find that in the wrong spot. Been on vacation. Sorry for the delay
Great video! I have a question that perhaps you could answer. I have already had a service tech move the sensor because of a chronic ice up behind the long drawer which blocks air flow and then raises the fridge temp. This did not solve the problem. I'm now guessing that the evaporator tray, which appears too small in length, (doesn't fit around the plastic shroud over the evaporator) is bent down away from the drain which starts a cycle of water pooling and freezing up and blocking the airflow, etc, Do you think that this might be the issue and do you think changing the tray to one of adequate length and pitched toward the drain might solve the problem we're experiencing? I've run out of ideas. I too have a Kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01
Sorry this doesn't help/answer but yeah this design is dumber than hell. It looks to me like by design it doesn't wrap around the end but instead clips in short, and for whatever reason warps over time - mine is bowed so it's highest in the middle (drain hole is on right). See comment below about increasing defrost frequency - I'll be trying that.
I have this same fridge and today realized that it is not cooling properly. I noticed that the deli meats drawer was not going all the way in, and when I looked behind, saw that I have a huge accumulation of ice behind it.. Now I'm trying to decide the best way to attack this.. Taking this apart to get to that coil looks to be doable, but once I get to it, what do you advise is the best way to attack the ice, and then of course why did the ice build... The fan seems to be running, but it seems as though the ice has built up in the vents.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01 .. Thank you for any help!!
Steamer is the best way to get rid of it. Fastest as well. Easiest way is to defrost the unit by unplugging it but it’s the longest. It can take 24-48 hrs. Keep the doors open and dam the fridge with towels because water will overfill the drain pan. The defrost thermostat may be in the wrong spot but those also may have been taken care of though. If it’s on the copper loop that’s wrong and it needs to be moved. You also want to change it to basic defrost. Test 7 in diagnostics. You want to change it from 01 to 02. That’s will make it defrost more often to prevent that ice build up. Good luck!
@@robertmungo5428 Look in the hinge cover for the right door top (IIRC) (search for this if my memory is wrong) and there is a diagnostic/circuit diagram tech document in there all folded up. It details these tests etc.
Hello, we find your videos great, I did have a question that hopefully you can answer.I think that my damper control is bad because my freezer is working great but my fridge is not working. The evaporating coil fan works but the cold air is not going in to the refrigerator part. Where would I find the damper or better if there is a place where I could look for assembly diagram it would be great? I own a Whirlpool WRF736SDAM11, Thank you in advance
Here is the damper control part number for you. W10479155. If that’s what you need. The damper should be near the bottom of your fridge section should be in the middle air tower. Take out the drawers on the bottom and you may be able to access it that way. Also look for a defrost issue. Your fan can be working and the air flow can be blocked if you have ice build up. Look for that as well. In diagnostics there should be a test to test the damper. Fans should be in so you will know if it opening and closing by feeling the air flow. I have ran into both issues. Failed damper and defrost issue. Good luck!
This video was an amazing help! My KitchenAid krff507ess01 kept icing up at the bottom of the fridge under the big drawer. Through some internet sleuthing, I determined that it was an airflow issue for the evaporator. I ordered the fan motor and harness but without this video I'm not sure I would've been able to change it out. Fridge is working great now.
Thank you! This video saved me hundreds on a repair call! I ended up just putting the ice maker to the side when taking the vertical air duct off and putting on because I just couldn't remove the water supply line and I was worried that I wouldn't be able to reattach it if it was so difficult to attach. It worked out! Thanks again!
Fantastic step-by-step; thanks! You mention that the screws for the evaporator cover are important to "prevent future issues". Can you elaborate on the issues? Are they associated with airflow bypassing the flow ports? Will it cause icing, or just reduce cooling efficiency? Thanks again for a great instructional video!
Unfortunately, I’ve had to do this 4 times over the last year...just finished another one last night. Thank you for your video, followed your instructions to a “T” for the first two times.
At the third time, I decided to figure out an easier way. And it’s worked both times, including a disassembly I did last night.
Basically, I bypass everything you do with the roof/water lines/ice maker and go straight to the cooling tower retaining tabs on the back wall, which I loosen with a flathead screwdriver. I use the same flathead screwdriver to pry the cooling tower upward...it only needs a fraction of an inch (I was so nervous the first time, that I’d snap the plastic, but it’s very pliable), and as you can see in your video, there’s no lip or anything on the lower cover that prevents it from sliding forward once it clears that fraction of an inch.
Anyone who has to do this multiple times might appreciate the time saver, and as a bonus, you still have the fridge LED lights on, and in place to see what you’re doing.
How does the coil defrost? Fan runs.Mine was frozen over. Can't seem to see how it defrost or a t stat. I have a slight rip in door gaaket..could it just have been over worked?
Okay Steve the appliance guy here in Las Vegas so what was left out in this video is something very important first of all if you're taking apart the cover on the evaporator you're doing it for a reason and that is to replace the evaporator fan thermistor assembly. Most of these four door and five-door French door Whirlpool refrigerators had a built-in defect in the evaporator fan assembly as follows the brass thermistor on the evaporator coil will usually be a dark black because it has burned out and that is because the thermistor has been placed in the wrong part of the evaporator coil when you replace the evaporator fan assembly you must put the brass thermostat on the back coil not the front coil that has the capillary tube attached it MUST be placed on the back coil and thoroughly tied down with a tie wrap. You can find a video from Repair Clinic on how to do this correctly the four and five draw French door refrigerator evaporator fan assemblies are exactly the same. If you place the brass thermostat on the front coil with a capillary tube you will get a call back in 3 weeks for the same icing problem I know been there already happened to me in thank God it was actually my best friend here in Las Vegas that discovered this defect and reported it to Whirlpool it is now part of a Whirlpool service bulletin for across the country. And yes to all DIY ers. You must be very patient when doing this procedure follow this video it will take you some time especially if you're a rookie😀😀😀
Perfect your video did the trick All it was was ice build up rubbing against the fan blades. Why does ice build up? Maybe i can keep it from happening again
Great video very interesting question what's the part number for the closure of the refrigerator door that goes into the top portion to avoid air escapes need one of those. Thanks in advance
I have a Whirlpool french door model that I want to replace the water line from the inlet valve to the filter. I see you removed the top cover to the filter by prying from the front. I have removed the 2 screws near the filter and have pried to hearts content but the cover will not release from its hidden tabs. Do you have any tips as to just where the cover is fastened?
Love your videos. Do you have a video on disassembling the freezer drawer? We have a “rattle” in the fan behind the back panel of the freezer and want to check to make sure nothing is stuck in on it. Thanks
Do you have a video for a side by side or is it the same process?
Great video. I have the same refrigerator. The side lights and the light in the freezer not working and I guess these are in same series. Can you suggest any troubleshooting tips? Thanks.
Same issue here
they are in a series, replace the freezer one and the sides will likely begin working
Thank you brother! Got it all apart. Fan is running but everything is frozen up.
Great video! Question, I have this exact unit. The bulk of the fan noise is coming from the freezer section at the bottom. Does the steps for disassembling the top refrigerator section still apply when trying to fix the sound coming from freezer?
Please do more of these. Ty
THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO MAN! I have a job where the evap on this model is so frozen that the customer can't get the bottom drawer to close because there is so much frost built up. That explained why her fridge was warm.
Do you know the fix for that? Moving the thermister and changing the defrost cycle to a basic defrost?
Thanks. This helped me replace my evaporator sensor harness; saved me about $220 in service fees.
Having a heck of a time getting the water line loose when disconnecting the ice maker . Any helpful hints?
there is a yellow rig where the waterline inters the valve. take a screwdriver and push on that yellow ring, then pull on the clearish white water line. be sure to push the yellow ring first before pulling the line or it wont come out. to reinstall the water line, just insert back in the valve at the yellow ring and push firmly until it stops, and you are done.
Thanks. If theres a giant ice chunk on the outside of the evaporator coil cover , what does this mean? It's hard ice not frost
Hey BAR, I have this same fridge. Last night it started leaking water. It appears the water is coming from somewhere in the area of the compressor you are showing how to access in this video, is filling the bottom tray area under the meat drawer and then running out the front door area. Are there any water connections in that area that could be the culprit? I couldn't tell with the quick peak you gave after removing the cover.
Very useful, thank you! I had to replace the sensors that are part of the cooling fan and managed to do so thanks to this video. I did manage to get the air tower thing off the back wall without pulling the ice maker.
Where did you buy the sensors ?
I cannot get that icemaker reattahced for the life of me, any hints?
Nice job really helped me replace the fan and temp probe quickly. Only broke 1 clip pulling down top covering
What symptoms was your fridge having?
@@JavierQ615 Ice building up preventing drawer from closing. No air flow at top of fridge. Water was no longer cold
How do you turn on the bottom thing that slides the one that you adjust the temperature it says meats/poultry cold drinks and deli/cheese
Kitchenaid ksf26c6xyy keeps breaking the wiring harness at the bottom of the freezer Two wire continue to break, even after repair by solder and wire nuts. can that wiring harness be replaced.
Would you have a video on how to disassemble a very similar Whirlpool refer except that it has the extra fresh food drawer that has the flexible electrical conduit that moves in and out with the drawer? I plan on changing the evaporator fan motor
Oh lord. That is a nightmare. I wish you well and hope you have the patience for it. I have only had to take one of them apart and I can't even begin to tell you how I did it other than I didn't do it the right way. I wish you luck!
Bearded Appliance Repair Actually it wasn’t as bad as I thought. A lot of undue stress for nothing.
Also, In order to remove the air tower you only have to remove the water filter duct only. No need to take the ice maker area out. Had everything out, and out of the way in less than 10 minutes, including the air tower and evap cover. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction
Great video, do you have 1 that shows how to get to the evap fan on the 5 drawer kitchen aid fridge?
Unfortunately no. I can say it is a nightmare getting to them though. I have only got the chance to do it once and I hated every minute of it lol.
Is the defrost timer located behind this panel where the fridge evaporator is?
the defrost time is electronically controlled. you are looking for a control board if you need a "defrost timer"
@@BeardedApplianceRepair so if my defroster isn't working, our initial courses of action should be to take out and test the defroster thermostat. Seems that would be the most logical thing to do rather than replace the control board.
And just to make sure I'm tracking, newer Whirlpool fridges (5 years and newer) do not have the analog defrost timers I'm seeing when I Google this issue. It's all electronic now...which makes sense why I can't locate a defrost timer on this thing lol
With this fridge I recommend calling a repair company. This fridge gives me more trouble than any other fridge. I have been to some that I simply couldn’t figure out what was going on with it.
These are the most complicated fridges I have worked on. I don’t want you to pull your hair out trying to figure this thing out lol.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair thanks!! I've got the fridge pretty much torn apart at this point with all the shelving taken out. It needed to be deep cleaned anyways lol since I've got the bottom freezer drawer and shelving removed with access to the defrost thermostat and heater, I figure I'll try my luck with replacing the defrost thermostat since it's a cheap and relatively easy fix. If that doesn't work, I'll be giving someone a call. Gonna visit my local appliance parts store today to see if anyone there has any ideas.
Thanks!
GREAT Video! Two questions... 1. Who made this for Kitchen Aid? 2. I have to replace the drip pan in the FF section "leaking onto floor "inside the FF section" under crisper drawer", do I have to remove all of this to get to it? Thanks very much!!!
Thanks for the awesome video. I’ve already had to clean out the defrost system p-trap when my freezer wasn’t defrosting. Just had to do the fridge and your video made it so much easier not having to figure it out myself.
You should have seen my anger the first time I had to do this lol. Glad to help! I knew I had to post this for folks.
Just EXACTLY what I needed to see!
Thanks!
Do you have any suggestions on how to avoid ice accumulate at the bottom drawer? Thanks!
Hi Bar, I have an issue with ice build up. The defrost sensor is on the evaporator like you said, and I changed the defrost setting to basic, so it’s set to defrost every 8 hours....but it’s still icing up. What else could it be?
Did I also say these thing are the bane of my existance? Haven't been able to figure it out further. Other techs have told me that the control board was the issue on other models but not sure how true that is or common. There are like 3 control boards on these. Worst refrigerators ever made in my opinion. They look great but are way too complicated. Over engineered for sure.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Exactly what I was thinking....over engineered, I was reading the same about it might be control board. You're right there are 3 control boards. How do I know which one to replace?
I’d probably start with the main pub. Then the power board after that.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you for your help....appreciate it...
Hi need some help with my french door refrigerator. Its cooling the guy came and bypass a part thats feeds the evaporator coils and still not cooling need some assistance plz
Got everything apart, found evaporator frozen up, and fan not running…..next steps?
Where is the defrost timer in a whirlpool refrigerator gold series model wrf989sdam03
Hey, Great video, really helpful. I need to replace the drain pan on my same refrigerator do I have to remove everything like you did?
Yes if it’s the evaporator drain pan in the fresh food section. Pan comes out from behind so you need to pull the evaporator housing too to remove it out the back.
What about the WRF992fif!???!!??
I couldn’t get that section apart if my life depended on it!!!😭🤯😱
Thanks Bearded man. 👏🏼👍🏽. Love your videos
So, those two screws that are important to prevent future issues... why are they important?
If you don’t put those screws in it can cause an air leak which will cause ice build up problem similar to a no defrost issue. You will be driving yourself crazy if you do not know how important those screws are.
Great question!
Bearded Appliance Repair well, that makes perfect sense. We bought our fridge used, and have had it ice up twice now; the two attachment points for the screws had been removed. The new cover is coming tomorrow.
Thanks, great video!
Andrew Poler when you have it apart make sure the defrost sensor is in the right spot as well.
If the sensor is located on the copper loop move it down to the evaporator. The evaporator is black. You will see a little ridge after the black shrink wrap. Put it in the other side of the ridge. It may be already there so just make sure it’s in the evaporator.
One last thing. Make sure the defrost setting is set to basic. Find the tech sheet and I believe it’s test 7 or 8, maybe even nine. Reference the tech sheet to make sure. On one of those tests you can change the defrost setting from adaptive to basic. Make sure it’s in basic.
These little details can help your situation as well. Good luck!
Bearded Appliance Repair - Question: did they place these on the copper loop at the factory? Mine was on the loop, about 2.5” from black, so I moved it down about 4 inches, after reading your suggestion
Yes. There was a service Pointer out there for certain models made in a specific time frame. Can’t tell you the specifics other than what to look for and what to do if you find that in the wrong spot. Been on vacation. Sorry for the delay
Great video! I have a question that perhaps you could answer. I have already had a service tech move the sensor because of a chronic ice up behind the long drawer which blocks air flow and then raises the fridge temp. This did not solve the problem. I'm now guessing that the evaporator tray, which appears too small in length, (doesn't fit around the plastic shroud over the evaporator) is bent down away from the drain which starts a cycle of water pooling and freezing up and blocking the airflow, etc, Do you think that this might be the issue and do you think changing the tray to one of adequate length and pitched toward the drain might solve the problem we're experiencing? I've run out of ideas. I too have a Kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01
Sorry this doesn't help/answer but yeah this design is dumber than hell. It looks to me like by design it doesn't wrap around the end but instead clips in short, and for whatever reason warps over time - mine is bowed so it's highest in the middle (drain hole is on right). See comment below about increasing defrost frequency - I'll be trying that.
Thank you. It worked great for me.
Perfect description! Thanks a lot!
Thank you...This was a great video. It solved my problem of trying to get to the coil
I have this same fridge and today realized that it is not cooling properly. I noticed that the deli meats drawer was not going all the way in, and when I looked behind, saw that I have a huge accumulation of ice behind it.. Now I'm trying to decide the best way to attack this.. Taking this apart to get to that coil looks to be doable, but once I get to it, what do you advise is the best way to attack the ice, and then of course why did the ice build... The fan seems to be running, but it seems as though the ice has built up in the vents.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a kitchenaid KRFF507ESS01 .. Thank you for any help!!
Steamer is the best way to get rid of it. Fastest as well. Easiest way is to defrost the unit by unplugging it but it’s the longest. It can take 24-48 hrs. Keep the doors open and dam the fridge with towels because water will overfill the drain pan.
The defrost thermostat may be in the wrong spot but those also may have been taken care of though. If it’s on the copper loop that’s wrong and it needs to be moved. You also want to change it to basic defrost. Test 7 in diagnostics. You want to change it from 01 to 02. That’s will make it defrost more often to prevent that ice build up.
Good luck!
This may be a dumb question but I'm not a appliance technician.What do you mean by test 7 in diagnostics?
@@robertmungo5428 Look in the hinge cover for the right door top (IIRC) (search for this if my memory is wrong) and there is a diagnostic/circuit diagram tech document in there all folded up. It details these tests etc.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair These fridges certainly qualify as "steamers."
Thank you very much for the video! It was very helpful!
Thank you so much for the video. It was great! Wouldn't have been able to fix my refrigerator without your help. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANKYOU!
You're welcome!
This video was a HUGE help!...thanks =)
You're welcome!
Hello, we find your videos great, I did have a question that hopefully you can answer.I think that my damper control is bad because my freezer is working great but my fridge is not working. The evaporating coil fan works but the cold air is not going in to the refrigerator part. Where would I find the damper or better if there is a place where I could look for assembly diagram it would be great? I own a Whirlpool WRF736SDAM11, Thank you in advance
Here is the damper control part number for you. W10479155. If that’s what you need. The damper should be near the bottom of your fridge section should be in the middle air tower. Take out the drawers on the bottom and you may be able to access it that way.
Also look for a defrost issue. Your fan can be working and the air flow can be blocked if you have ice build up. Look for that as well. In diagnostics there should be a test to test the damper. Fans should be in so you will know if it opening and closing by feeling the air flow. I have ran into both issues. Failed damper and defrost issue. Good luck!
That's a lot of work to get to that fan
Thank you so very very much
, now I have a 2012 Ford fusion that the AC works sitting still and decreases as you excrllerate?😀
Welcome!
What kind of loser downvotes this? Trolls? Ever tried figuring out getting one of these apart? SHEESH.
You are so right I hate it !
The fan is working by the evaporator; the tray just under it has frozen water in it why?( WRF990SLAM) Whirlpool.
Thanks!
This video was an amazing help! My KitchenAid krff507ess01 kept icing up at the bottom of the fridge under the big drawer. Through some internet sleuthing, I determined that it was an airflow issue for the evaporator. I ordered the fan motor and harness but without this video I'm not sure I would've been able to change it out. Fridge is working great now.