Yea Dad's will be Dads...apperceive him as long as you can. I lost mine a few years ago he was a machinist and knew his way around a lathe. Then I taught myself during covid how to turn wood thanks to you and utube. He passed away at 94 and I still wish every day that I could call him for advice. I'll listen to your Dad anytime.
I agree with your dad. let him make the videos. You never say what the jig is for. You never say what kind of tool rest you use. This is more of a show then a lesson.
Father and son dynamic. I feel your pain. My dad told my boss who was his sub at the time that I was not allowed to use a table saw because my dad was concerned that I would cut my fingers off. I was 42 at the time….
I think my realization moment was my son's first move (over several states) after college. I was to show up to help load the U-haul truck and, in my mind, organize that loading. When I got there, he was done loading without me. I said, "Oh, I guess you are 30 years old now, I need to get used to that."
Great video. I really appreciate that you put your opinions out there and give us something to think about. Even if I disagree, still enjoy watching and always seem to have something I learn along the way. You really seem to believe in your motto, learn, create, and share. Thank you!
I started woodturning about a year ago. I admit that I bought quite a few tools, mostly because I saw them being used in TH-cam videos and figured that I needed them too. When the dust settled, and I became much more skilled on the lathe, I realized that I could easily get by with a lot fewer tools than I had purchased. I didn't have any 'gadget' tools, but I discovered that a lot of different tools were capable of doing the same thing that other tools can do. Skew chisels are amazingly versatile. A Bedan and 3/8" a parting tool can do pretty much the same thing too. I could probably do most things work with a bowl gouge that I can do with a spindle gouge. I guess that is just part of the learning process. When watching Richard Raffan's videos, I was pleasantly surprised to see that he uses very few tools, and there is no doubt that Richard knows how to turn just about anything. Woodturning is a hobby, at least for most of us, and hobbyists tend to go a bit overboard at times. Don't get me started on vacuum chucks and multiple lathes. For the record, I have two thin parting tools. The one that Carter and Son makes is my favorite. It's a beast of a parting tool.
I agree that Carter and sons make Some of the best woodturning tools available including their party tool. I meant parting tool, Though I think I have a party. Every time I turn with a fellow wood turner!!
Peter, I would like to get you started on vacuum chucks. Did you have a bad experience? I will admit that most youtubers make them overly complicated and also that there are other ways to accomplish what a vacuum chuck will do. However, they can be quite convenient after you become accustomed to using one.
@@clarencegreen3071 I did not have a bad experience with vacuum chucks. I use a vacuum chuck frequently and don't know now I got by without one. The only problems that I have had were with a few very thin bowls, under 1/16" where the vacuum chuck cracked the bottom of the bowl. With spalted timber, which leaks like a sieve, I just block the leaks with masking tape.
Haha - I had to start laughing when your father walked on screen. Enjoy the interactions between you two with your differentiating view points. Someday I'll get myself a lathe but until then I'll just keep watching and learning. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
@@pettere8429 That is a great idea - I think I am going to try to work around with that idea and see what I acn get to work. What are your thoughts on the cheaper harbor freight lathe? Would something like that be worth buying or wait until a quality one can be afforded ?
I use that narrow parting tool often. It is the perfect tool for the job I do. I want a kerf in the item that is just that size, and this is the perfect tool to make that. When I saw one cheap at an estate sale, I bought a second one as a back up. When it is sharp, and the speed is high, there is no wobble.
I was initially skeptical about your video...but it turned out to be pretty entertaining....I love the part where you Dad walked in LOL...Thank you for your time
I made my own thin kerf parting tool out of an old carbide tipped circular saw blade and it works great. The carbide tips are slightly wider than the steel behind it so it works perfectly.
Totally agree with the tool rest 3:53 problem. The rest that came with my Oneway 1224 has been a problem since day #1. I've sanded it smooth many times, but it seems to get dents in it very quickly, and the tools never seem to slide very smoothly on it. I'm in the market for a replacement; if you or one of your viewers has a good replacement option for this lathe I'd like to hear it. Thanks for the gr8 videos!
Robust makes great tool rests that fit Jet lathes. Before I figured that out, I took the original tool rest that came with my Jet and used epoxy to add a 3/8" round piece of hardened steel rod that I bought at the hardware store. Glued it to the rest and ran a bead down each side. Performs just like the Robust. I know several turners that have done the same. No one has had the rod come loose after several years of use.
@@PStJohn-he2mi I like the inexpensive fix, but I'm a little worried it might come loose and become a projectile. I'll do some investigating into a Robust rest. Thanks for the info.
Some tools, like scrapers, have a rectangular cross section whose corners can be rather sharp. You can save wear and tear on your tool rest by rounding those corners with sandpaper or a quick swipe across a grinder.
Love the humor as you and your Dad show that one person's trash is another person's treasurer. Clearly one size does not fit all. I would agree that a thin parting tool would not be suitable as your primary parting tool. I started with a 1/4" HF parting tool and it worked fine. But as I watched more and more demonstrators who traveled with a limited tool set most used a 1/8" PT. I made one from a bar of HSS and it is now my go to parting tool. But I still like my thin "tenoning" tool from Penn State which is about like your Sorby but a lot cheaper and still HSS for a lot of parting tasks on small projects. The less steel on the wood, the less friction. But I would hate using it if it had the grind you showed as opposed to how all of them come from the manufacturer, or with a bit of the tip cut back.
all a sudden worth the effort starts putting out so many vids! shawn, been missing these types of woodworking videos from you. are we ever getting another 101 tips vids?
I made my own parting tool with an old saw blade that had carbide teeth. Cut a strip from the center to a single tooth and attached a handle. The tooth is wider than the metal so it keeps it from binding
Dad’s and son’s. Good for both of you. Thanks for your tips. Some are awesome all are food for thought at some level. Partially as I started watching you many years ago your responsible for what now is a daily occurrence. I try to turn something everyday. I have an endless supply of free wood. And I mean endless over 2 million pounds in my mill building. Crazy what this has started about a decade ago.
I needed a thin kerf parting tool, I made mine from a chefs knife. It took a little while to get the angles just right and grind off the sharp edge. Used it for over a year and never had a problem with it.
Amen to tool rest replacement! The tool rest that came with my Craftex lasted all of two weeks before a catch on my first bowl broke the shaft right through.
I hate the cast iron stock rests that came with my Jet 1221. I too turn like an ape and have to file my tool rests down every so often. Time to replace them.
A lot of comments on the parting tool. I think the tool rest switch was the most useful. Steel on iron has a tendency to stick stopping or slowing the tool. I didn't really notice this until i used a steel rest. I also didn't really know why until i watched your video.
You have a great interaction with your Dad. I don’t think I would be his favourite self taught woodworker as I saw a person using a lathe once and thought “ How interesting!” So I constructed one on my home made table saw from my mother-in-laws bed! I was explaining how I made it to friend and he wanted to know what my mother-in-law was doing with a 20 year old electric drill in her bed It wasn’t an absolute disaster but it will do till I find one! My first project was a walking stick made from Australia hardwood and making that sharpened my evasive skills no end! I needed the 4WD to pull the chisel outta the mancave door! I’m going to make a wooden bowl next! I think!
Ha ha that was “worth the effort” and informative. Good to have comedy . Maybe get your dad to show you how to use the angle finder. Agree with the finger thickness test. Loved it.
I ground a different shape into my tool rest, mainly cos there was an enormous dent from the previous owner and I couldn‘t maintain the curved shape, so just went flat and straight as best as I could!
No, it is the way you are using it. Try making some clearance room with two overlapping cuts, reducing diameter in steps. The tool will cut perfectly well, with none of the issues described. It's worked fine for me for over 25 years.
I am the health and safety officer at a Men's Shed in Perth Western Australia and until today I have never seen one of those safety drives you showed, it looks more like some live centres we have. We do use the narrow parting tools but we have the point off centre and you do need to cut a wider section, even by just a little bit. Have you considered waxing the sides? That first tool your Dad showed reminded me of my parting tool until I saw the profile.
Diamond section parting tools will also bind in a cut if you don’t make relief cuts on the way to widen the kerf. Narrow parting tools take less wood away if you’re trying to match grain between top and bottom of an end grain box. They definitely have a purpose depending on what you make.
I love when your dad walked in and called you an idiot! I agreed with him on the Stuart batty gauge, it’s very easy to figure out. However I agreed with both of you on determining wall thickness. It’s nice to have a tool for backup or verification but getting used to using your fingers is key. Plus as turning get larger or deeper your fingers no longer reach. Thanks for more good content, I know you’re not really an idiot😂
Great pitch. You soon learn the importance of a tool AFTER you buy it. I succumbed to that Batty angle thing and I think I know which drawer it's in ...
I agree with you on those tools, I made a thin parting tool from a edger tool, it doesn't work! & I never use It. The tribite I like for green endgrain
When did they get called "safety drives"? Before turners started putting live centers in the tail stock, they were called "dead centers". They're good for small things. I didn't put teeth on mine. You can keep the lathe running if fitting something or doing multiples. I have this one #2 taper four prong drive with a long point. I ground off two prongs and a little more to make the remaining ones stick out more. I pound that thing into big chunks almost like it's a nail so I can put a tenon on the piece for the chuck to grab. It will slip sometimes if I'm trying to hog wood off of a big weak piece. I repound or recrank the tails stock.
I love the thin kerf parting tool - really wanted one to conserve wood, and at first I had the same issues you mentioned. A couple tips to avoid: put the lathe on a slow speed, and cut fast. Since it's so thin, it's way easier to cut quickly, which avoids the binding problems.
Thanks Sean, love your work and teaching style. Keep videos coming. Really enjoy your approach to batching out small products for sale. I have used these numerous times and referred others to your site as well. Thanks very much for sharing. Produce more videos. Oh ps your fathers great too, love the cameos and his style as well
So you're saying you actually listened to the explanation on how to use it and concluded I was wrong? What's your technique and don't tell me on deep cuts to take multiple passes so you only use a portion of edge to take a bigger kerf because that's what I explained.
I was about to get one of those small "knives" for parting. Thx for the advice. And your work in general. Always a pleasure watching you (and your dad)!!!
I would like to hear your comments about large lathes. I have an ancient lathe. 3 hp motor, 8 foot bed, 24 inch swing, 4 speeds, weighs about 1,000 pounds. I’d like to get a modern lathe. Maybe a Robust or Oneway or Powermatic.
They are a luxury for most. A necessity for professionals. I've worn out mini's and midi's but the Oneway is infinitely rebuildable and will outlast me. Dad's Robust is barely broken in after 10 years.
Maybe the reason you get binding with the narrow parting tool is that you're not making as second relief cut to slightly widen the parting cut. There are also times you might need it to conserve wood during the cut. I agree with you on replacing lighter weight toolrests, and I've added Robust toolrests in several sizes (4", 6", 9") depending on the length of stock for my projects. I always match the toolrest with the stock I'm using. I do disagree with you regarding Stuart Batty's angle gauges. They're currently $40 each or the 3-pc. set for $69.90. They work really well dialing in angles on the grinder. It's not difficult to see the two reference points against the wheel when the grinder tool rest is gently moved to match. Much better than trying to use a protractor.
I use a butter knife for a thin parting tool. It was free, and works great for parting stuff up to about 3" in diameter. I really like it for continuous grain boxes because you don't lose very much of the grain pattern.
Found it very interesting, have some of those tools, I got them for free at a local tool sale. The guy thru them in. You’re Right! I also turn like a brute. Get er done!
Good tips. If I need a tool or jig I just make one. It's insane how much money you can spend on woodworking stuff. Now I'm going to have to make one of those narrow parting tools to see if I hate it as much as you do 😊
I have used a putty knife for thin parting for years. About 1mm in thickness. Never bought a specialised tool for it. I do make my own tools when I can. Even gouges at times. Though I agree that dents in the tool rest are a problem at times I've not had a problem with binding.
parting tools need to be hollow ground so there is side clearance. Grinding angles: I have 2 removable platforms that I put on the grinder rest that are different angles so I don't need to change the grinder rest angle. 2 seconds to change to another angle. I have found the spur doesn't provide enough grip for ape turning bowls. I have spun it many times from a catch and don't use it anymore.
Great video Shawn. But, I do have to disagree with you on a couple of tools on your list. First of all, the slim parting tool is a wonderful item. When making boxes, you can match the grain of the body and the lid much better with a thin parting tool. You are just removing less material from the box. A thin parting tool is also essential in making a honey dipper. I would like to see one made with a thicker parting tool. It would just not look right. The next tool on your list I disagree with is the so-called safety drive. There are several versions of this drive and they are mainly designed for production spindle turning. They allow you to mount and remove your spindle from the lathe while it is running. These types of drives have a spring point center pin which allows you to loosen the tail stock just a little and the spindle will stop spinning. You can also mount a spindle the same way. As long as you do not engage the drive, your spindle will not spin. Once you have the spindle aligned, just tighten the tail stock to engage the spinning part of the drive center. Much quicker and completely safe.
Again, great video. As a Turner, I agree with a lot and besides having a very, and I mean a very limited budget when it comes to tool, I have started to prefer the basics. As a matter of fact, I have only 4 Tools thats a must when I turn, Bowl, Spindle, Parting tool and my most Favourite especially on Spindle Turnings, The Skew. Also, I really like the videos where your dad makes guest appearances, It is so great to see and makes me think of the type of relationship I had with my Late Father. Try and make more of those Shawn as it is something to treasure one day.
Great video! I think you could take that angle thing and put a couple screws through it to attach it to the top edge of your workbench. Would hold the right tapered coffee cup solid as all get out!
I make my own parting tools from old carbide circ saw blades. Use a ZipCut wheel to cut a center stripe out of the circ saw blade and fit it into a handle. Touch up the carbide with a diamond stone and you're off to the races. The carbide tip is wider than the steel so there's no friction on the sides of the tool in use. Easy peasy.
I agree those thick steel thin parting tools have never shown any appeal to me. It is really sad the Jet hasn't upgraded their stock tool rest. I got rid of the one i had on my first lathe as soon as I could afford something better. I use, and teach how to sharpen with the SB angle gauges. Like any tool you need to learn how to use them, but once you do they are really great for getting repeatable results. I prefer a steb style center as it gives a good drive grip but will give if things go bad.
I'm still laughing! While I agree with many of the things y'all mentioned, I agree with Pat on the Stuart Batty gauge. I use mine regularly. Thanks for another great vid, Shawn!
I learned the value of the safety drive from an old wood turner, who made about twelve thousand spinning wheels and probably close to a hundred thousand spindles. When using the safety drive, you do not have to turn the lathe off to change spindles if you're careful. Just Watch your fingers so they don't get caught in the tool rest.
That was standard technique in production shops even with spur drives as it wasn’t easy to turn off power in a steam/water/generator overhead belt drive setup production shops used.
I love my thin parting tool. I use it all the time when making boxes and ornaments. And I'm sorry to say your Dad is way off when it comes to using texturing tools. They're great for adding special details to pieces. Like everything else in woodturning, it takes practice.
Everyone I know have made their narrow parting tools from old table knives. all you need is a grinder. You only use this when you have 1/2" or less or less for the final parting.
Narrow parting tool is essential if you are making grain matched boxes, especially if you are doing a production run…. Takes Too much time to cut it off with a saw or clamping up for bandsaw. Stainless steel tool rest is a must and some rough sandpaper on the bottom edge of the parting tool and it works perfectly. And any pinching is bad technique on the part of the user, or the turner trying to part off something larger than the tool is meant for
For the thin parting tools, I use one all the time, and prefer it to my 1/8 inch wide parting tool. I get a 3/32 kerf with the thin tool, and almost a 5/32 kerf with the 1/8 inch tool. The spear point took is excellent for shear scraping the outsides of bowls. I have been using the wire gage for my bowls for 30 years and considering it costs pennies rather than the $60 to $80 that the other tool does, it is far better. Yours is the wrong shape. Correct way to make it is to bend it into a D shape, and then make your cut/gap about 1 inch in on the bottom side. This way it works on bowls and hollow forms. I generally set mine to about 1/8 to 1/4 wider than I want the wall thickness of my bowls. If it starts to rub, you have gone too far, so stop before you get there. This was a David Ellsworth invention. For Stuart's platform, I don't like it at all. I would have to have several sets of the angle setters because I know they would get lost in the shop shavings. I made my own for a while, the robo rest. Pre set angles and exactly repeatable every time. Oneway is probably the worst one, and most will cut a notch 1 3/4 inch wide for the CBN wheels to fit into. Now, some one is making "right angle" platforms. I got some just to see how they work. Pretty good, and no jigs required to set angles. You can make your own jigs. I did take a 3 day workshop with Stuart and his dad Allen many years ago, and that started me on platform sharpening. Far faster than setting up jigs. I use the 40/40 and several different BOB (bottom of bowl) gouges, and haven't used a swept back gouge in over 10 years. I also do all of my roughing with scrapers. Far more efficient than gouges. You should have seen Stuart when he saw me roughing some bowls with my Big Ugly tool!
I’ve never used my super skinny parting tool on a powered lathe; I do almost almost all of my turning on a springpole lathe. That parting tool is dynamite on green wood!
I agree with you on all subjects discussed in this episode. Research is key before purchasing any of my turning tools. Most of the time I make my own special tools. Thumbs up on thickness gauge your fingers are just as accurate as a expensive one! Sorry Pops but your son is right!
Too funny, you started with my favorite cutting tool, the Sorby thin parting tool, I love love love it, but mine looks different; the corner that cuts is not close to the middle of the blade but very close to the bottom. So it is meant to cut close to the bottom and the rest above it gives it stability (no vibration in the blade). It cuts like a butter and does not catch, because it cuts. So, I believe you should sharpen it differently (mine is the original shape) and have a fresh look at it. I think that shape loses all its clever "engineering". With that knive I have had very little use for the basic parting tool. I use it to make very deep cuts like roughing a log and then cutting a dozen half inch slices out of it. The first inch with the standard cutting tool, the switch to the slim to continue the same width but splitting the cut into two cuts side by side and my knife won't get stuck or cause burn marks deep close to the cutting point. It is also very useful with miniature scale projects, like beads, drop spindles, buttons and such. The knife works great when you cut through 90 degrees angle, when you have limited options to make a planing cut that you more or less need with the skew. Yes my tool rest is a bit dented, but not because of the slim shady, because all the catches I got with my skew. And I dont mind, I will sand it smooth if it starts to bother. And based on your suggestions, I will buy a steel one, having a cast iron one for roughing is fine. The slim knife makes it easy to tweak the remaining fibers againts the pointed live center tail stock, making a neat new position for the live center, like a finished indent. If the next step is to bore a hole, you have a start for it to align true. I believe the catching issues may have to do with the shape of the blade. Its efficient (fast) . Regarding the engineering, the further the cutting point is from the tool rest, the more vibration and counter fources, and the corner in that higher position it is further away from the tol rest both forwards and upwards. (I don't think you are an idiot though... without your videos I would understand there things so that I could analyze all this I hypothetized above. Or even bought a lathe and started. You are a great teacher. Your strong opinions actually gives a confident space for us beginners as we can see that circumstances, skills, wood and projects depend on one's tool choices, and its okay, as long as you take time to explore and understand. This video brought a smile, you guys are morphing from teaching to improvised comedy acting.)
Yea Dad's will be Dads...apperceive him as long as you can. I lost mine a few years ago he was a machinist and knew his way around a lathe. Then I taught myself during covid how to turn wood thanks to you and utube. He passed away at 94 and I still wish every day that I could call him for advice. I'll listen to your Dad anytime.
Always great to see your dad putting his two cents in on your videos.
I agree with your dad. let him make the videos. You never say what the jig is for. You never say what kind of tool rest you use. This is more of a show then a lesson.
Father and son dynamic. I feel your pain. My dad told my boss who was his sub at the time that I was not allowed to use a table saw because my dad was concerned that I would cut my fingers off. I was 42 at the time….
I think my realization moment was my son's first move (over several states) after college. I was to show up to help load the U-haul truck and, in my mind, organize that loading. When I got there, he was done loading without me. I said, "Oh, I guess you are 30 years old now, I need to get used to that."
Hey thanks. I enjoyed learning as I am starting to pick up some tools
Well at least he loves you. My dad was like here's some power tool........you'll figure it out...one way or another
Great video. I really appreciate that you put your opinions out there and give us something to think about. Even if I disagree, still enjoy watching and always seem to have something I learn along the way. You really seem to believe in your motto, learn, create, and share. Thank you!
I started woodturning about a year ago. I admit that I bought quite a few tools, mostly because I saw them being used in TH-cam videos and figured that I needed them too. When the dust settled, and I became much more skilled on the lathe, I realized that I could easily get by with a lot fewer tools than I had purchased. I didn't have any 'gadget' tools, but I discovered that a lot of different tools were capable of doing the same thing that other tools can do. Skew chisels are amazingly versatile. A Bedan and 3/8" a parting tool can do pretty much the same thing too. I could probably do most things work with a bowl gouge that I can do with a spindle gouge. I guess that is just part of the learning process.
When watching Richard Raffan's videos, I was pleasantly surprised to see that he uses very few tools, and there is no doubt that Richard knows how to turn just about anything. Woodturning is a hobby, at least for most of us, and hobbyists tend to go a bit overboard at times. Don't get me started on vacuum chucks and multiple lathes. For the record, I have two thin parting tools. The one that Carter and Son makes is my favorite. It's a beast of a parting tool.
I agree that Carter and sons make Some of the best woodturning tools available including their party tool. I meant parting tool, Though I think I have a party. Every time I turn with a fellow wood turner!!
Peter, I would like to get you started on vacuum chucks. Did you have a bad experience? I will admit that most youtubers make them overly complicated and also that there are other ways to accomplish what a vacuum chuck will do. However, they can be quite convenient after you become accustomed to using one.
@@clarencegreen3071 I did not have a bad experience with vacuum chucks. I use a vacuum chuck frequently and don't know now I got by without one. The only problems that I have had were with a few very thin bowls, under 1/16" where the vacuum chuck cracked the bottom of the bowl. With spalted timber, which leaks like a sieve, I just block the leaks with masking tape.
Haha - I had to start laughing when your father walked on screen. Enjoy the interactions between you two with your differentiating view points.
Someday I'll get myself a lathe but until then I'll just keep watching and learning. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
You can do some small turning on a corded drill clamped to a sturdy bench.
@@pettere8429 Can that really work? I never thought about trying that, I will totally start looking into such. Thank you for sharing the idea.
@@lets-allplay I use a center punch in a block of wood as a dead center and a Torx40 bit as a drive center. So yes.
@@pettere8429 That is a great idea - I think I am going to try to work around with that idea and see what I acn get to work.
What are your thoughts on the cheaper harbor freight lathe? Would something like that be worth buying or wait until a quality one can be afforded ?
I use that narrow parting tool often. It is the perfect tool for the job I do. I want a kerf in the item that is just that size, and this is the perfect tool to make that. When I saw one cheap at an estate sale, I bought a second one as a back up. When it is sharp, and the speed is high, there is no wobble.
I was initially skeptical about your video...but it turned out to be pretty entertaining....I love the part where you Dad walked in LOL...Thank you for your time
I made my own thin kerf parting tool out of an old carbide tipped circular saw blade and it works great. The carbide tips are slightly wider than the steel behind it so it works perfectly.
Totally agree with the tool rest 3:53 problem. The rest that came with my Oneway 1224 has been a problem since day #1. I've sanded it smooth many times, but it seems to get dents in it very quickly, and the tools never seem to slide very smoothly on it. I'm in the market for a replacement; if you or one of your viewers has a good replacement option for this lathe I'd like to hear it. Thanks for the gr8 videos!
Robust makes great tool rests that fit Jet lathes. Before I figured that out, I took the original tool rest that came with my Jet and used epoxy to add a 3/8" round piece of hardened steel rod that I bought at the hardware store. Glued it to the rest and ran a bead down each side. Performs just like the Robust. I know several turners that have done the same. No one has had the rod come loose after several years of use.
@@PStJohn-he2mi I like the inexpensive fix, but I'm a little worried it might come loose and become a projectile. I'll do some investigating into a Robust rest. Thanks for the info.
Some tools, like scrapers, have a rectangular cross section whose corners can be rather sharp. You can save wear and tear on your tool rest by rounding those corners with sandpaper or a quick swipe across a grinder.
I love these videos you've been putting together. Great to see what tools to buy and what not to buy.
Great to hear valuable comments from your father - thanks for the content.
Love the humor as you and your Dad show that one person's trash is another person's treasurer. Clearly one size does not fit all. I would agree that a thin parting tool would not be suitable as your primary parting tool. I started with a 1/4" HF parting tool and it worked fine. But as I watched more and more demonstrators who traveled with a limited tool set most used a 1/8" PT. I made one from a bar of HSS and it is now my go to parting tool. But I still like my thin "tenoning" tool from Penn State which is about like your Sorby but a lot cheaper and still HSS for a lot of parting tasks on small projects. The less steel on the wood, the less friction. But I would hate using it if it had the grind you showed as opposed to how all of them come from the manufacturer, or with a bit of the tip cut back.
all a sudden worth the effort starts putting out so many vids! shawn, been missing these types of woodworking videos from you. are we ever getting another 101 tips vids?
I have not know so many 10 second tips.
Great video! I agree with you both. Love your father-son dynamic. Good to see woodturning moving through generations.
Forgot to lock the door….in your dads shop! LOL good video. laughing most of the way thru it. Agree. Thanks for sharing
Hahaha!! Great to see the Dad vs Son skit. Thanks for the video!
I made my own parting tool with an old saw blade that had carbide teeth. Cut a strip from the center to a single tooth and attached a handle. The tooth is wider than the metal so it keeps it from binding
Dad’s and son’s. Good for both of you. Thanks for your tips. Some are awesome all are food for thought at some level. Partially as I started watching you many years ago your responsible for what now is a daily occurrence. I try to turn something everyday. I have an endless supply of free wood. And I mean endless over 2 million pounds in my mill building. Crazy what this has started about a decade ago.
I needed a thin kerf parting tool, I made mine from a chefs knife. It took a little while to get the angles just right and grind off the sharp edge. Used it for over a year and never had a problem with it.
Good stuff. Thanks. We all have tools we wish we hadn't bought. No two people will agree on which ones...
Really have enjoyed this series of videos. Dad popping in was hilarious. Keepnup the awesome work. 👽
Amen to tool rest replacement! The tool rest that came with my Craftex lasted all of two weeks before a catch on my first bowl broke the shaft right through.
Which toolrest do you use on your JET? I'm a novice and in fact use the stock rest.
there are some older videos where he mentions Robust tool rests, so I got one and its all I use. Not sure if he still uses that kind though
I hate the cast iron stock rests that came with my Jet 1221. I too turn like an ape and have to file my tool rests down every so often. Time to replace them.
Robust
A lot of comments on the parting tool. I think the tool rest switch was the most useful. Steel on iron has a tendency to stick stopping or slowing the tool. I didn't really notice this until i used a steel rest. I also didn't really know why until i watched your video.
You have a great interaction with your Dad. I don’t think I would be his favourite self taught woodworker as I saw a person using a lathe once and thought “ How interesting!”
So I constructed one on my home made table saw from my mother-in-laws bed!
I was explaining how I made it to friend and he wanted to know what my mother-in-law was doing with a 20 year old electric drill in her bed
It wasn’t an absolute disaster but it will do till I find one!
My first project was a walking stick made from Australia hardwood and making that sharpened my evasive skills no end!
I needed the 4WD to pull the chisel outta the mancave door!
I’m going to make a wooden bowl next!
I think!
You taught me all I know of turning
Same here...
Ha ha that was “worth the effort” and informative. Good to have comedy . Maybe get your dad to show you how to use the angle finder. Agree with the finger thickness test. Loved it.
I ground a different shape into my tool rest, mainly cos there was an enormous dent from the previous owner and I couldn‘t maintain the curved shape, so just went flat and straight as best as I could!
Termite is for endgrain only ! I never had the money to buy a thin parting tool, but what you said is good to know! Thank you.
He used it for hollowing so end grain.
Great video. Love the cameo from your dad!
Good show. Thank you. You've saved me some money.
Thank you Shaun, you easily explained my pain with using my similar thin parting tool, it’s not me(this time) it’s the tool.
No, it is the way you are using it. Try making some clearance room with two overlapping cuts, reducing diameter in steps. The tool will cut perfectly well, with none of the issues described. It's worked fine for me for over 25 years.
@@craftsmanwoodturner thank you Richard. Having sufficient clearance and taking the extra time are always good reminders.
I actually talked about that in the video.
Love the Dad interaction. Half my tools and most of my skills come from mine 😂
I am the health and safety officer at a Men's Shed in Perth Western Australia and until today I have never seen one of those safety drives you showed, it looks more like some live centres we have. We do use the narrow parting tools but we have the point off centre and you do need to cut a wider section, even by just a little bit. Have you considered waxing the sides? That first tool your Dad showed reminded me of my parting tool until I saw the profile.
Diamond section parting tools will also bind in a cut if you don’t make relief cuts on the way to widen the kerf. Narrow parting tools take less wood away if you’re trying to match grain between top and bottom of an end grain box. They definitely have a purpose depending on what you make.
You should check out D-Ways parting tool. It's narrower at the top than at the bottom. It's the only parting tool I own.
I love when your dad walked in and called you an idiot! I agreed with him on the Stuart batty gauge, it’s very easy to figure out. However I agreed with both of you on determining wall thickness. It’s nice to have a tool for backup or verification but getting used to using your fingers is key. Plus as turning get larger or deeper your fingers no longer reach. Thanks for more good content, I know you’re not really an idiot😂
Great pitch. You soon learn the importance of a tool AFTER you buy it. I succumbed to that Batty angle thing and I think I know which drawer it's in ...
I agree with you on those tools, I made a thin parting tool from a edger tool, it doesn't work! & I never use It.
The tribite I like for green endgrain
Lol, "sorry about that I forgot to lock the door" that was funny, thanks for the video it was helpful and fun
When did they get called "safety drives"? Before turners started putting live centers in the tail stock, they were called "dead centers". They're good for small things. I didn't put teeth on mine. You can keep the lathe running if fitting something or doing multiples.
I have this one #2 taper four prong drive with a long point. I ground off two prongs and a little more to make the remaining ones stick out more. I pound that thing into big chunks almost like it's a nail so I can put a tenon on the piece for the chuck to grab. It will slip sometimes if I'm trying to hog wood off of a big weak piece. I repound or recrank the tails stock.
I love the thin kerf parting tool - really wanted one to conserve wood, and at first I had the same issues you mentioned. A couple tips to avoid: put the lathe on a slow speed, and cut fast. Since it's so thin, it's way easier to cut quickly, which avoids the binding problems.
Thanks Sean, love your work and teaching style.
Keep videos coming.
Really enjoy your approach to batching out small products for sale. I have used these numerous times and referred others to your site as well.
Thanks very much for sharing.
Produce more videos.
Oh ps your fathers great too, love the cameos and his style as well
I have a narrow parting tool and love it. You may need to learn how to use it.
So you're saying you actually listened to the explanation on how to use it and concluded I was wrong? What's your technique and don't tell me on deep cuts to take multiple passes so you only use a portion of edge to take a bigger kerf because that's what I explained.
I was about to get one of those small "knives" for parting. Thx for the advice. And your work in general. Always a pleasure watching you (and your dad)!!!
I would like to hear your comments about large lathes. I have an ancient lathe. 3 hp motor, 8 foot bed, 24 inch swing, 4 speeds, weighs about 1,000 pounds. I’d like to get a modern lathe. Maybe a Robust or Oneway or Powermatic.
They are a luxury for most. A necessity for professionals. I've worn out mini's and midi's but the Oneway is infinitely rebuildable and will outlast me. Dad's Robust is barely broken in after 10 years.
I fasten a piece of drill rod to the top of my tool rests, it’s very hard so it stays smooth even when using tools on edge
Maybe the reason you get binding with the narrow parting tool is that you're not making as second relief cut to slightly widen the parting cut. There are also times you might need it to conserve wood during the cut. I agree with you on replacing lighter weight toolrests, and I've added Robust toolrests in several sizes (4", 6", 9") depending on the length of stock for my projects. I always match the toolrest with the stock I'm using. I do disagree with you regarding Stuart Batty's angle gauges. They're currently $40 each or the 3-pc. set for $69.90. They work really well dialing in angles on the grinder. It's not difficult to see the two reference points against the wheel when the grinder tool rest is gently moved to match. Much better than trying to use a protractor.
If you use the thin parting tool correctly, it will be a friend that helps you look like a magician when doing lidded boxes
I'm going to try Thompson lathe tools. I know I can make handles, thanks to you😎👍
I use a butter knife for a thin parting tool. It was free, and works great for parting stuff up to about 3" in diameter. I really like it for continuous grain boxes because you don't lose very much of the grain pattern.
Video is fantastic, I enjoyed watching.
Yup. I agree 100%. You guys are great. Thanks for the.videos
Loved the video, and your fancy spindle roughing gouge handle is aging beautifully.
Found it very interesting, have some of those tools, I got them for free at a local tool sale. The guy thru them in. You’re Right! I also turn like a brute. Get er done!
Your advice to upgrade the iron tool rest might have been more helpful if you had mentioned what we could replace it with.
Good tips. If I need a tool or jig I just make one. It's insane how much money you can spend on woodworking stuff. Now I'm going to have to make one of those narrow parting tools to see if I hate it as much as you do 😊
I have used a putty knife for thin parting for years. About 1mm in thickness. Never bought a specialised tool for it.
I do make my own tools when I can. Even gouges at times.
Though I agree that dents in the tool rest are a problem at times I've not had a problem with binding.
parting tools need to be hollow ground so there is side clearance.
Grinding angles: I have 2 removable platforms that I put on the grinder rest that are different angles so I don't need to change the grinder rest angle. 2 seconds to change to another angle.
I have found the spur doesn't provide enough grip for ape turning bowls. I have spun it many times from a catch and don't use it anymore.
Dads are dads and will always know better than their sons great to have him around even if you sometimes have to lock the door 🤣👍
Great video Shawn. But, I do have to disagree with you on a couple of tools on your list. First of all, the slim parting tool is a wonderful item. When making boxes, you can match the grain of the body and the lid much better with a thin parting tool. You are just removing less material from the box. A thin parting tool is also essential in making a honey dipper. I would like to see one made with a thicker parting tool. It would just not look right.
The next tool on your list I disagree with is the so-called safety drive. There are several versions of this drive and they are mainly designed for production spindle turning. They allow you to mount and remove your spindle from the lathe while it is running. These types of drives have a spring point center pin which allows you to loosen the tail stock just a little and the spindle will stop spinning. You can also mount a spindle the same way. As long as you do not engage the drive, your spindle will not spin. Once you have the spindle aligned, just tighten the tail stock to engage the spinning part of the drive center. Much quicker and completely safe.
I use a flush cut saw on boxes and skew on honey dippers. V-cuts are easier to clean.
@@wortheffort I forgot to mention that I use a flush-cut saw after the thin parting tool.
Again, great video. As a Turner, I agree with a lot and besides having a very, and I mean a very limited budget when it comes to tool, I have started to prefer the basics. As a matter of fact, I have only 4 Tools thats a must when I turn, Bowl, Spindle, Parting tool and my most Favourite especially on Spindle Turnings, The Skew. Also, I really like the videos where your dad makes guest appearances, It is so great to see and makes me think of the type of relationship I had with my Late Father. Try and make more of those Shawn as it is something to treasure one day.
Thanks, very honest video its appreciated
Great video! I think you could take that angle thing and put a couple screws through it to attach it to the top edge of your workbench. Would hold the right tapered coffee cup solid as all get out!
These tool videos have been great.
Instructional and funny .. best wishes
Super helpful as a new owner of robust american beauty..overkill but its awesome.
Thank you for sharing. Dad is awesome. Everyone stay cool, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thak you very much for this video.
Nicely done 👍👍
Correct on the thin parting tool
Great video. Thanks
Buy the best 5/8 bowl gouge you can. It is the work horse of turning tools and you can do almost an entire bowl with just it.
The pointy tool looks pretty similar to the common diamond carbide insert, which I'm finding very useful, particularly the radiused one.
Richard Raffan calls it a spear point scraper and he uses his frequently.
I disagree with the narrow parting tool assessment. I would like to know what you prefer as a parting tool?
Regular parting tool. Diamond.
Thanks for the reply.@@wortheffort
Agree with your findings.
Chuck
I make my own parting tools from old carbide circ saw blades. Use a ZipCut wheel to cut a center stripe out of the circ saw blade and fit it into a handle. Touch up the carbide with a diamond stone and you're off to the races. The carbide tip is wider than the steel so there's no friction on the sides of the tool in use. Easy peasy.
Great video thank you
You have the Lamborghini and Ferrari of wood lathes in that One Way and Robust. Which one do you like more?
I don't use Robust. 1640 is a mid level Oneway.
@@wortheffort Is that your dads American Beauty behind the OneWay?
Well said my friend…although you do know how to rattle some people’s cages!
I agree those thick steel thin parting tools have never shown any appeal to me. It is really sad the Jet hasn't upgraded their stock tool rest. I got rid of the one i had on my first lathe as soon as I could afford something better. I use, and teach how to sharpen with the SB angle gauges. Like any tool you need to learn how to use them, but once you do they are really great for getting repeatable results. I prefer a steb style center as it gives a good drive grip but will give if things go bad.
ROTFL at 8:53 with Dad -- super fun great ideas
I'm still laughing! While I agree with many of the things y'all mentioned, I agree with Pat on the Stuart Batty gauge. I use mine regularly. Thanks for another great vid, Shawn!
I learned the value of the safety drive from an old wood turner, who made about twelve thousand spinning wheels and probably close to a hundred thousand spindles. When using the safety drive, you do not have to turn the lathe off to change spindles if you're careful. Just Watch your fingers so they don't get caught in the tool rest.
Just loosen the tail stock slightly before removing the spindle and retighten with the new blank in place .
That was standard technique in production shops even with spur drives as it wasn’t easy to turn off power in a steam/water/generator overhead belt drive setup production shops used.
I love when your dad makes cameos. Hi, Shawn's dad!
I love when dad shows up!
For beginners I’d recommend carbide tools. They have served me well sharpening is harder than turning.
sharpening is the same difficulty as turning. same hand motions. don't believe the marketing messaging from carbide retailers.
Your dad's hilarious!! Great episode!!!
I love my thin parting tool. I use it all the time when making boxes and ornaments.
And I'm sorry to say your Dad is way off when it comes to using texturing tools. They're great for adding special details to pieces.
Like everything else in woodturning, it takes practice.
Agree on both tools, and I do similar delicate projects. Its different if making huge bowls and such.
The only parting tool I use now is the wedge shaped parting tool from D-Way tools.
Everyone I know have made their narrow parting tools from old table knives. all you need is a grinder. You only use this when you have 1/2" or less or less for the final parting.
Narrow parting tool is essential if you are making grain matched boxes, especially if you are doing a production run…. Takes Too much time to cut it off with a saw or clamping up for bandsaw. Stainless steel tool rest is a must and some rough sandpaper on the bottom edge of the parting tool and it works perfectly. And any pinching is bad technique on the part of the user, or the turner trying to part off something larger than the tool is meant for
Loved the video!
For the thin parting tools, I use one all the time, and prefer it to my 1/8 inch wide parting tool. I get a 3/32 kerf with the thin tool, and almost a 5/32 kerf with the 1/8 inch tool.
The spear point took is excellent for shear scraping the outsides of bowls.
I have been using the wire gage for my bowls for 30 years and considering it costs pennies rather than the $60 to $80 that the other tool does, it is far better. Yours is the wrong shape. Correct way to make it is to bend it into a D shape, and then make your cut/gap about 1 inch in on the bottom side. This way it works on bowls and hollow forms. I generally set mine to about 1/8 to 1/4 wider than I want the wall thickness of my bowls. If it starts to rub, you have gone too far, so stop before you get there. This was a David Ellsworth invention.
For Stuart's platform, I don't like it at all. I would have to have several sets of the angle setters because I know they would get lost in the shop shavings. I made my own for a while, the robo rest. Pre set angles and exactly repeatable every time. Oneway is probably the worst one, and most will cut a notch 1 3/4 inch wide for the CBN wheels to fit into. Now, some one is making "right angle" platforms. I got some just to see how they work. Pretty good, and no jigs required to set angles. You can make your own jigs. I did take a 3 day workshop with Stuart and his dad Allen many years ago, and that started me on platform sharpening. Far faster than setting up jigs. I use the 40/40 and several different BOB (bottom of bowl) gouges, and haven't used a swept back gouge in over 10 years. I also do all of my roughing with scrapers. Far more efficient than gouges. You should have seen Stuart when he saw me roughing some bowls with my Big Ugly tool!
I’ve never used my super skinny parting tool on a powered lathe; I do almost almost all of my turning on a springpole lathe. That parting tool is dynamite on green wood!
Oh my god, I laughed so much at you two! Awesome :^)
Dude your dad is great! Make him Do his own Chanel. I would love to watch him build and teach.
Unknown turner
I agree with you on all subjects discussed in this episode. Research is key before purchasing any of my turning tools. Most of the time I make my own special tools. Thumbs up on thickness gauge your fingers are just as accurate as a expensive one! Sorry Pops but your son is right!
Too funny, you started with my favorite cutting tool, the Sorby thin parting tool, I love love love it, but mine looks different; the corner that cuts is not close to the middle of the blade but very close to the bottom. So it is meant to cut close to the bottom and the rest above it gives it stability (no vibration in the blade). It cuts like a butter and does not catch, because it cuts. So, I believe you should sharpen it differently (mine is the original shape) and have a fresh look at it. I think that shape loses all its clever "engineering". With that knive I have had very little use for the basic parting tool. I use it to make very deep cuts like roughing a log and then cutting a dozen half inch slices out of it. The first inch with the standard cutting tool, the switch to the slim to continue the same width but splitting the cut into two cuts side by side and my knife won't get stuck or cause burn marks deep close to the cutting point. It is also very useful with miniature scale projects, like beads, drop spindles, buttons and such. The knife works great when you cut through 90 degrees angle, when you have limited options to make a planing cut that you more or less need with the skew. Yes my tool rest is a bit dented, but not because of the slim shady, because all the catches I got with my skew. And I dont mind, I will sand it smooth if it starts to bother. And based on your suggestions, I will buy a steel one, having a cast iron one for roughing is fine. The slim knife makes it easy to tweak the remaining fibers againts the pointed live center tail stock, making a neat new position for the live center, like a finished indent. If the next step is to bore a hole, you have a start for it to align true. I believe the catching issues may have to do with the shape of the blade. Its efficient (fast) . Regarding the engineering, the further the cutting point is from the tool rest, the more vibration and counter fources, and the corner in that higher position it is further away from the tol rest both forwards and upwards. (I don't think you are an idiot though... without your videos I would understand there things so that I could analyze all this I hypothetized above. Or even bought a lathe and started. You are a great teacher. Your strong opinions actually gives a confident space for us beginners as we can see that circumstances, skills, wood and projects depend on one's tool choices, and its okay, as long as you take time to explore and understand. This video brought a smile, you guys are morphing from teaching to improvised comedy acting.)