I used to keep a bunch of popsicle sticks in my desk drawer at work for when I got bored during Zoom meetings. I could make just about anything with a pocket knife, some super glue, and a binder clip or two.
Disposing of razor blades - if you use evaporated milk or any other product where you just punch holes in the top, you can cut a slit in the side once it's empty and use that as a sharps container. Then you can throw them away without risking cutting anyone who has to dump your trash.
@@TintagelEmrys The problem with soda cans is the top is big enough for the unwary to stick their finger in. When I made my blade bank, I had a toddler.
@@EricHonaker that is what my dad used for as long as I can remember. I understand being wary of it, but it was always on the shelf, put away, out of reach of those tho young to understand. I learned it wasn't safe around the same age I learned not to touch the hot stove.
Agree with the marking knife; it is essential for good joinery. I'd also add the combination square and/or a good set of engineering squares. We take them for granted, but they are critical for good results.
Great stuff Shawn! I put together my top 5 before watching and tried to guess yours. I got the marking knife (can't do without), the push drill (just don't hold it like that!), and the popsicle sticks. My other two were a small engineer's square, and a center punch/awl. All except the push drill live in my apron. Appreciate your channel so much. Thanks!
With popsicle sticks I use grill skewers for tight glue areas and small hole repair or plugging and small 1 to 2 inch wood scraps from my table saw to scrape glue and apply on pieces
I've got two OG Yankee push drills in brass I snapped up at a garage sale in my twenties. Just turned 61 and still use them. Found replacement bits at Lee Valley. ✌
Agree with the gunsmithing tool route ... however, instead of individual drivers, get a kit of drivers with interchangeable bits. Extremely useful ... wide, straight bits for tightening plane chip breakers, a good range of Phillips, Robertson, Torx, hex and straight bits. I use it almost daily ... and not just in the shop. The cheap kit I bough many years ago has saved me many, many times.
I made my own marking knife from a nice thick old recip blade and learned very quickly that razor sharp is not how ya want it! Just a working edge is about the sweet spot Ive personally found.
13:54 I have a big piece of 1/2” thick glass that i spray-glue 400- and 600-grit sandpaper to. I actually resharpen utility knife blades and that’s actually a lot more useful than a new blade is. Well unless you’re doing roof shingles; then throw them out LOL
I grinned all the way thru this video, because I agreed with all of it. For glue spreaders/mini-spatulas, I started using plastic knives. Anybody with plasticware has leftover knives that they are glad to get rid of. Also, I grab extras whenever I'm at a fast food restaurant. I have NEVER paid for a plastic knife. They are rounded on the back and flat along the blade. Some of them have a serrated edge which helps to spread glue evenly. Most glues peel right off so you can use them for a long time. Try it.
Hi, I use the little pastry brushes that I get from the pound shop, they are smaller than the spatulas but when the glue dry’s it is easy to get it off as nothing sticks to them. Another tool I like is the brace & bit, I use one of these with a bit holder and I have screw bits for every type of screw
I just saw another video where the 'tuber suggested cutting a straw on a bias for getting squeeze-out away from joints. Seemed like a pretty good idea.
My dad was a master gunsmith and I swear by them. Most woodworkers shy away from straight blade screws because they cam out, but I've never had a GS screwdriver cam out. I sometimes (unintentionally ;) ) preach about them on some chat groups. They're worth every penny, especially if you make period furniture. Nothing screams "fake" louder than a Phillips.
I'm more of a common man. But my life experience has taught me that flatheads are notorious for the screwdriver slipping out of the screw and having to recenter it or hold it there, and I much prefer Philips or anything else that won't have that problem. Granted, wortheffort explained about this type of flathead that will grip and not cause that issue.
Love the "wanker drill". I keep a 1.5mm drill bit in it at all times, but u can use it with a square headless nail or whatever. I have it nearby for predrilling for small brass nails.
Yes, because they are hollow "elswhere" i.e. the hollow part does not actually engage in the screw slot. And even if it did, a curve across a 1 mm is not that much of a curve. Taper... That's bad, no matter the depth of the screw slot.
I bought a wet/Dry grinder but it chewed my old chisel up so bad I now know why.. I need to get a better platform to lean my chisel against my bro.. Great video. I used to have the Old hand drill or I should say my father had them and I used them.. I had the egg beater style one from my pops and he also had the one u showed us on this video too.. I loved using them nad I think I'm going to invest in one or both again soon my friend.. Really enjoying these types of videos man.. Keep up the great work.
Tip I learned from a gunsmith: I have a lot of esoteric machinery with a myriad of slotted screws. I keep a stock of old "junk" flat screwdrivers and hollow grind them to fit each size head on each machine. Only takes a couple minutes and no cam-out. Cheap new screwdrivers are improved with this method too, but tend to be too soft to last long.
The rest on the grinder is more important than the grinder IMO; just as the wheels are. A slow speed grinder with CBN wheels and a set of quality rests as an amazing addition to any shop.
I recently moved my favourite marking knife (also a spear point) from my marking and measuring drawer beneath the bench to a spot on too of the bench. Always reaching for it. Agree with popsicle sticks but I just take the wooden teaspoons from the Cafe.
I 100% agree with Popsicle/lollipop sticks, they are stiff enough to allow glue or filler to be placed exactly where you want it and can easily be cut to get into small spaces. My grandson loves corn-dogs, the sticks from them are thicker but narrower plus very easy to scrape off the tiny bit of batter he leaves. I find them incredibly useful. You don't even have to buy anything. Pretty sure the only way I'll get a marking knife I really like is to make it? I never have a problem modifying tools to fit me (my boss almost went crazy when I was modifying a Snap On screwdriver, even though he hadn't paid for it 😁) I would probably get an Archimedes drill if I could find one cheap enough. It's called 'cam out' when tapered screwdriver rides out of slot. 'Gunsmith' screwdrivers seem like an excuse to charge triple the price? CBN wheels (cubic boron nitrite) are a pretty recent invention in the consumer market
Thanks but understand my normal content isn't so popcorn-ish. I specialize in long form education stuff. Video's the algorithm doesn't promote. This is an experiment to boost the algorithm so my classes are put in front of more eyes.
I've had a few different marking knives over the years and hate them all because finding the right angle just takes too long. But I haven't tried the spear point style... yet. Just ordered one! Thanks, Shawn.
I have watched this and not seen the "Push Drill". When I did the amazon search I found a number of different ones but nothing what you have on your video? Can I ask where you purchased yours please? Thank you for an excellent educational video!!
Pencils of different kind, crayons for "marking" when thicknessing or sanding larger surfaces (faster then pencils), candle or soap bar for planes and saws, wd 40 😁, small portable/easy maneuverable lamp set in low angle light for inspecting surfaces, oven baking (vaxed) paper for glue ups....
Agree with wax paper, I keep pieces of Gulf Wax around for planes and saws. Have yet to find a small lamp i'm happy with - I have one that is mechanically great, but the lamp is just too dim.
A battery led reflector lamp (the rectangular one) works fine for me. But i have also find that is necessary to dim other lights while checking the surface.
" Pick 2 or 3 size screws and stick with them " That is so true. Todays world has so many different kinds of Fastners and screws that all need different style driver it has become really insane. As a carpenter it gets really frustrating when you are given 5 types of screw and they all have a different style head to deal with. Not only is 2 or 3 sizes just sound advice it is a major time and money saver.
Thank you for another great share out. FYI, I have the large box (5,000) of popsicle sticks and figure I may not need to buy more for at least a couple of months. 🙂
I often say my marking knife is my most useful tool...... I usually get a funny reaction when I say that 😆 it really does get used on every single project, like you said....... and it makes all types of joinery easy to cut, no thinkin do I split a line, leave it, or take it; the knife line is the start of every cut. People often complain about slotted screws, they blame the screw when it's really the driver that is the problem. I've ground normal drivers so they're parallel, soon I'm gonna make my own........ I have access to a mill for making the head of the driver, and when I make room for my lathe il be able to make the handles too.
So true about the marking knife. I do love the shape and utility. sadly, the one I bought is so soft, that the point bends in use. I'm setting up a forge, and will make my own, soon. I don't need popsicle sticks, because I save all the slender cut offs from trimming pieces. Futility knife blades are the bomb for so many uses around the shop! Thanks for your opinions, they make sense to me.
Personally I believe there is an even better glue spreader than the popsicle stick (we call 'em lollipop sticks 'ere). And the best of it is, you don't need to buy anything. They are made from what every woodworker already has in abundance in his (or her!) shop. Used sandpaper. Just fold a little 3/4" strip over and use the folded edge as the spreader. The grit creates a natural 'comb' effect. After years of using these I know they are essentially as effective as and do the same job as a glue roller. Spread out the glue with the folded sandpaper and you will be left with a thin film which is exactly the required amount of glue for a good bond. And spread it out in lines like a window-cleaner with his wiper. Wipe off large amounts of excess as you go onto the back of another piece of sandpaper to avoid overload. Once you've used it shove it straight in the bin. No mess whatsoever. And every woodworker can lay their hands on a bit of used sandpaper that's lying around (or in the bin) whenever they like.
1) The Marking Knife: well, I never used one. Thought about it, but I had already gone through learning how to use a pencil or other marking devise to get accuracy down to a science- so my first pick for something that touches every single piece of wood in my shop would have to be not the marking knife or pencil, but the square that makes the line possible, in my case is usually a precision speed square. 2) Pop Cycle Stick: I really like your uses for them, and I will use them in the future, but as for application of glue, I have two brushes I use, a lager brush and a smaller brush- thankfully, I don't do dovetails. 3) Push Drill: I'm not a fan... I have my workflow pretty well established, and that includes two cordless drills, one driver, and one drill that I mostly use with a carbide countersink bit, so its Zip-Zip! and I'm done with the job, not changing out bits unless I have changed screw sizes. 4) Well Tooled Flat Head Screwdriver: Nope. I have systematically veered away from any other types of screw other than deep socketed Phillips head screws, notably regular sized drywall screws. Most Phillips heads driver bits are too deep fitting for any cheaper dry wall screw, and thus the need for deep socketed screws, but I hate the "star" driver bits (though everyone raves about them) I just don't see the advantage over getting the properly fitted screw for the properly fitted bit, which makes part of your point, right tool for the right job. Second reason for Philips head is that I want everything streamlined to one bit, no changing out every time I make something. 5) I use razors for cleaning off my vinyl worksurface on my giant work table, which gets glue on it constantly. 6) Grinder: I have three of them, NONE OF THEM ARE WORTH A SHIT... I found them either unbalanced arbors, or the collars for them were unbalanced, to the point where I felt my life was threatened by just standing next to it running!!!! One of them nearly shook the table apart after one minute of running! These were not the cheapest ones! About all I can use them for is a polisher and wire brush wheel! After the third purchase, I was out of budget and patience for the idea, so... that sucked and I still need one- getting a 600$ or more one now is totally out of the budget for the first three I bought!
Boy do I wish we had a grinder. Again, we're a leather shop, so that really means we are full time cutting tool sharpeners, so a power tool that accelerates that process would be of immense value. ALSO, the grinder can be used to burnish leather edges, and for several other leather specific purposes. Seems like all affordable tools these days are just junk, have wonky arbors in this case, or if the tool is good, it costs as much as a Ferrari. Also, anybody notice there were no yard sales this spring? I didn't see one, not one single yard sale. I did just see an antiques yard sale, so I take it back, but I saw the sign on Sunday, so missed the saturday. I'm used to 10 yard sales in my area every saturday morning! Anybody notice no yard sales this year?
Bringing up gunsmithing, have you thought about doing a shotgun stock from scratch? So many wood working techniques used. Be a cool video/series. Also, I would suggest the wheeler gunsmith driver bit set for a one and done purchase.
The other tool I was thinking of that I like a lot and have a strong preference for is my mallet. I have several types at this point. However, there is really only one that I use. No chance I change at this point.
I use a three-bladed, stockman-style pocket knife, specifically the sheep's foot blade, for marking. I have a spear point knife, but I don't like it much. The biggest drawback is leaving it on the bench instead of dropping it back in my pocket. A trick I have used to improve a mortis and tenon fit is to saturate paper with glue and add it to the tenon. No extra stock removal.
The most misused and abused tool is the common screwdriver. They are meant to turn screws, not pry things. Hollow ground screwdrivers are significantly better than normal wedge shaped screwdrivers. Small sets of 1/4" bits aren't that expensive, less than a set of cheap wedgeshaped ones from the bargain bin. I don't like the yankee screwdriver/ drill, but I do like the eggbeater style. THe common round toothpick is usually made from maple and works well for those tiny jobs and filling a misdrilled hole.
With a bench grinder hollow grinding screwdrivers is possible. A bit tricky, but possible. Screwdrivers work a lot better when they actually fit in screws. Pry bars work better than screwdrivers do at prying too.
I purchase pop cycle sticks by the thousands, it’s amazing how many uses there are for them, I also purchase Q tips in large quantities, again, amazing how many uses there are for them in a shop as well. Push drills, I must have a dozen bought at garage sales and I recondition them and instal a specific size drill in each one, they hang on a rack ready to go, I just grab the one I want and away I go. Screw drivers,
Better than a popsicle stick for spreading glue are unused plastic picnic knives. Not only can spread glue but the teeth provide a measured layer of glue.
Square wooden handled screw drivers, nothing more comfortable to use if you have to do a lot by hand I've got a full set and they are the only screwdrivers I use.
@@billffromnh Stanley kept the Yankee trade name after they bought North Bros in 1946. At this point it’s probably a collector point, I buy the N Bros ones when I see because they’re older.
I'm guessing you've only used screws bought in a box. Remember, stuff sold by the oz is generally better. Quality slotted screws might run you a dollar each but they will last many times being inserted and removed. They really are fitted to a specific size screwdriver.
@@wortheffort even the best screws ... when they get seized from corrosion or whatever, you just can't put a good amount of torque on them. If you need to go to boutique stores to buy them, and use unicorn screwdrivers ... what's the point? There are far better options.
That is NOT A RAZOR BLADE! IT is a utility knife blade. Single edge razor blades are thinner and have a dull beam on the top edge. Double edge razor blades are even thinner and have cutting edges on top and bottom.
I've got to say that I think that you are wrong about the slot screwdriver. Yes, that brand is well made ( I have one for specific brass screws for fine box hinges ) but finding properly made slot screws is almost impossible. On the other hand a Robertson driver is the way to go. As long as you buy a good brand of screw. Not the cheap crap that you find in Home Depot.And those are easier to find than well made slot drive screws. And work better. There, religious rant over. I feel better now.
Allmost the same here, with the exception of brass screws and rounded ones because they just look better slotted. Piece of advice, create a hollow grind on a slightly too large screwdriver for a "gunsmith" fit.
Allmost the same here, with the exception of brass screws and rounded ones because they just look better slotted. Piece of advice, create a hollow grind on a slightly too large screwdriver for a "gunsmith" fit.
I loved hearing you say "wallered out"! That's how we say it around here too.
Along with popsicle sticks I also find bamboo skewers and chopsticks as well as index cards as being very useful in the shop.
Yep, got a box of index cards back on shelf too.
I used to keep a bunch of popsicle sticks in my desk drawer at work for when I got bored during Zoom meetings. I could make just about anything with a pocket knife, some super glue, and a binder clip or two.
You can spilt them into little splinters and put a tiny drop of glue just where you want it.
Disposing of razor blades - if you use evaporated milk or any other product where you just punch holes in the top, you can cut a slit in the side once it's empty and use that as a sharps container. Then you can throw them away without risking cutting anyone who has to dump your trash.
Out of ease I and know a few people i know use a cheap kids tin money box and dispose of the entire thing in recycling when full.
Pop cans are good as well
Soda cans, the opening is large enough to put them in, but they aren't coming back out
@@TintagelEmrys The problem with soda cans is the top is big enough for the unwary to stick their finger in. When I made my blade bank, I had a toddler.
@@EricHonaker that is what my dad used for as long as I can remember. I understand being wary of it, but it was always on the shelf, put away, out of reach of those tho young to understand. I learned it wasn't safe around the same age I learned not to touch the hot stove.
Agree with the marking knife; it is essential for good joinery. I'd also add the combination square and/or a good set of engineering squares. We take them for granted, but they are critical for good results.
Thanks!
Well we sure do appreciate you Shawn. Thanks for sharing as usual. Enjoy your day.
Great information, thanks!
Thanks for sharing with us!!! I too have a couple of Yankee Drills, they are very useful and fast!
Great content! Thanks.
I do like your selection. Number 1 was particularly good, the marking out knife. It is more accurate than any pencil. Thank you for the vid.
Great stuff Shawn! I put together my top 5 before watching and tried to guess yours. I got the marking knife (can't do without), the push drill (just don't hold it like that!), and the popsicle sticks. My other two were a small engineer's square, and a center punch/awl. All except the push drill live in my apron.
Appreciate your channel so much. Thanks!
Good, usable info. Especially new kids on the block. Thank you for doing this.
Yup. Good tips. Always entertaining. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! ❤
The humble bench grinder?
Invaluable. The only more important thing in the shop is a place to put it!
With popsicle sticks I use grill skewers for tight glue areas and small hole repair or plugging and small 1 to 2 inch wood scraps from my table saw to scrape glue and apply on pieces
Hooray for Popsicle sticks! Well done, Sir!
I've got two OG Yankee push drills in brass I snapped up at a garage sale in my twenties. Just turned 61 and still use them. Found replacement bits at Lee Valley. ✌
Agree with the gunsmithing tool route ... however, instead of individual drivers, get a kit of drivers with interchangeable bits. Extremely useful ... wide, straight bits for tightening plane chip breakers, a good range of Phillips, Robertson, Torx, hex and straight bits. I use it almost daily ... and not just in the shop. The cheap kit I bough many years ago has saved me many, many times.
Great video. Such talent & skill. 👍👍
Gotta love the popcycle sticks
I made my own marking knife from a nice thick old recip blade and learned very quickly that razor sharp is not how ya want it! Just a working edge is about the sweet spot Ive personally found.
13:54
I have a big piece of 1/2” thick glass that i spray-glue 400- and 600-grit sandpaper to. I actually resharpen utility knife blades and that’s actually a lot more useful than a new blade is. Well unless you’re doing roof shingles; then throw them out LOL
I grinned all the way thru this video, because I agreed with all of it. For glue spreaders/mini-spatulas, I started using plastic knives. Anybody with plasticware has leftover knives that they are glad to get rid of. Also, I grab extras whenever I'm at a fast food restaurant. I have NEVER paid for a plastic knife. They are rounded on the back and flat along the blade. Some of them have a serrated edge which helps to spread glue evenly. Most glues peel right off so you can use them for a long time. Try it.
Hi, I use the little pastry brushes that I get from the pound shop, they are smaller than the spatulas but when the glue dry’s it is easy to get it off as nothing sticks to them. Another tool I like is the brace & bit, I use one of these with a bit holder and I have screw bits for every type of screw
I have ten glue spreaders. Five at the end of each hand. Easy to find and clean.
I just saw another video where the 'tuber suggested cutting a straw on a bias for getting squeeze-out away from joints. Seemed like a pretty good idea.
that works, but plastic.....
@@wortheffort I don't see why it wouldn't work with paper, if you wanted to go that way. But that's a good point.
My dad was a master gunsmith and I swear by them. Most woodworkers shy away from straight blade screws because they cam out, but I've never had a GS screwdriver cam out. I sometimes (unintentionally ;) ) preach about them on some chat groups. They're worth every penny, especially if you make period furniture. Nothing screams "fake" louder than a Phillips.
I'm more of a common man. But my life experience has taught me that flatheads are notorious for the screwdriver slipping out of the screw and having to recenter it or hold it there, and I much prefer Philips or anything else that won't have that problem. Granted, wortheffort explained about this type of flathead that will grip and not cause that issue.
thanks
Love the "wanker drill". I keep a 1.5mm drill bit in it at all times, but u can use it with a square headless nail or whatever. I have it nearby for predrilling for small brass nails.
I like these videos
I believe the hollow ground screwdrivers work well too. I'm new to your channel, looks good.
Yes, because they are hollow "elswhere" i.e. the hollow part does not actually engage in the screw slot. And even if it did, a curve across a 1 mm is not that much of a curve. Taper... That's bad, no matter the depth of the screw slot.
always great info! can you recommend a good large face vise? Thanks.
I'm sorry most of my vises are shop made as they were out of my price range when building my bench. I drool over the benchcrafted stuff.
@@wortheffort same but mega pricey. thanks for your videos!
I bought a wet/Dry grinder but it chewed my old chisel up so bad I now know why.. I need to get a better platform to lean my chisel against my bro.. Great video. I used to have the Old hand drill or I should say my father had them and I used them.. I had the egg beater style one from my pops and he also had the one u showed us on this video too.. I loved using them nad I think I'm going to invest in one or both again soon my friend.. Really enjoying these types of videos man.. Keep up the great work.
Tip I learned from a gunsmith: I have a lot of esoteric machinery with a myriad of slotted screws. I keep a stock of old "junk" flat screwdrivers and hollow grind them to fit each size head on each machine. Only takes a couple minutes and no cam-out. Cheap new screwdrivers are improved with this method too, but tend to be too soft to last long.
Cheers.
The rest on the grinder is more important than the grinder IMO; just as the wheels are. A slow speed grinder with CBN wheels and a set of quality rests as an amazing addition to any shop.
super!
I recently moved my favourite marking knife (also a spear point) from my marking and measuring drawer beneath the bench to a spot on too of the bench. Always reaching for it.
Agree with popsicle sticks but I just take the wooden teaspoons from the Cafe.
I 100% agree with Popsicle/lollipop sticks, they are stiff enough to allow glue or filler to be placed exactly where you want it and can easily be cut to get into small spaces. My grandson loves corn-dogs, the sticks from them are thicker but narrower plus very easy to scrape off the tiny bit of batter he leaves. I find them incredibly useful. You don't even have to buy anything.
Pretty sure the only way I'll get a marking knife I really like is to make it?
I never have a problem modifying tools to fit me (my boss almost went crazy when I was modifying a Snap On screwdriver, even though he hadn't paid for it 😁)
I would probably get an Archimedes drill if I could find one cheap enough.
It's called 'cam out' when tapered screwdriver rides out of slot.
'Gunsmith' screwdrivers seem like an excuse to charge triple the price?
CBN wheels (cubic boron nitrite) are a pretty recent invention in the consumer market
Excellent video, subscribed
I fully expected your under appreciated go-to tool to be a one inch chisel.
Just found your channel and I gotta tell you brother I am hooked!!
Thanks but understand my normal content isn't so popcorn-ish. I specialize in long form education stuff. Video's the algorithm doesn't promote. This is an experiment to boost the algorithm so my classes are put in front of more eyes.
Playing cards! shimming!
I've had a few different marking knives over the years and hate them all because finding the right angle just takes too long. But I haven't tried the spear point style... yet. Just ordered one! Thanks, Shawn.
I have watched this and not seen the "Push Drill". When I did the amazon search I found a number of different ones but nothing what you have on your video? Can I ask where you purchased yours please? Thank you for an excellent educational video!!
as said in video they're generally vintage tools you'll have to find on auctions. My model is a miller falls buck rogers but there are many comprable.
@@wortheffort Thank you Sir! I go to estate sales and yard sales and add that item to my list.
For utility knife blades and razor blade I dispose in a DIY "Sharps" container, just a plastic wide mouth iced tea bottle with orange duct tape label.
Garrett Wade sells a modern push drill. And bits. They are perfect for pilot holes.
always wanted a marking knife.
Pencils of different kind, crayons for "marking" when thicknessing or sanding larger surfaces (faster then pencils), candle or soap bar for planes and saws, wd 40 😁, small portable/easy maneuverable lamp set in low angle light for inspecting surfaces, oven baking (vaxed) paper for glue ups....
Agree with wax paper, I keep pieces of Gulf Wax around for planes and saws. Have yet to find a small lamp i'm happy with - I have one that is mechanically great, but the lamp is just too dim.
A battery led reflector lamp (the rectangular one) works fine for me. But i have also find that is necessary to dim other lights while checking the surface.
" Pick 2 or 3 size screws and stick with them " That is so true. Todays world has so many different kinds of Fastners and screws that all need different style driver it has become really insane. As a carpenter it gets really frustrating when you are given 5 types of screw and they all have a different style head to deal with. Not only is 2 or 3 sizes just sound advice it is a major time and money saver.
Thank you for another great share out. FYI, I have the large box (5,000) of popsicle sticks and figure I may not need to buy more for at least a couple of months. 🙂
I often say my marking knife is my most useful tool...... I usually get a funny reaction when I say that 😆 it really does get used on every single project, like you said....... and it makes all types of joinery easy to cut, no thinkin do I split a line, leave it, or take it; the knife line is the start of every cut.
People often complain about slotted screws, they blame the screw when it's really the driver that is the problem. I've ground normal drivers so they're parallel, soon I'm gonna make my own........ I have access to a mill for making the head of the driver, and when I make room for my lathe il be able to make the handles too.
So true about the marking knife. I do love the shape and utility. sadly, the one I bought is so soft, that the point bends in use. I'm setting up a forge, and will make my own, soon. I don't need popsicle sticks, because I save all the slender cut offs from trimming pieces. Futility knife blades are the bomb for so many uses around the shop! Thanks for your opinions, they make sense to me.
Personally I believe there is an even better glue spreader than the popsicle stick (we call 'em lollipop sticks 'ere). And the best of it is, you don't need to buy anything. They are made from what every woodworker already has in abundance in his (or her!) shop. Used sandpaper. Just fold a little 3/4" strip over and use the folded edge as the spreader. The grit creates a natural 'comb' effect. After years of using these I know they are essentially as effective as and do the same job as a glue roller. Spread out the glue with the folded sandpaper and you will be left with a thin film which is exactly the required amount of glue for a good bond. And spread it out in lines like a window-cleaner with his wiper. Wipe off large amounts of excess as you go onto the back of another piece of sandpaper to avoid overload. Once you've used it shove it straight in the bin. No mess whatsoever. And every woodworker can lay their hands on a bit of used sandpaper that's lying around (or in the bin) whenever they like.
What speed is a slow grinder.
1) The Marking Knife: well, I never used one. Thought about it, but I had already gone through learning how to use a pencil or other marking devise to get accuracy down to a science- so my first pick for something that touches every single piece of wood in my shop would have to be not the marking knife or pencil, but the square that makes the line possible, in my case is usually a precision speed square.
2) Pop Cycle Stick: I really like your uses for them, and I will use them in the future, but as for application of glue, I have two brushes I use, a lager brush and a smaller brush- thankfully, I don't do dovetails.
3) Push Drill: I'm not a fan... I have my workflow pretty well established, and that includes two cordless drills, one driver, and one drill that I mostly use with a carbide countersink bit, so its Zip-Zip! and I'm done with the job, not changing out bits unless I have changed screw sizes.
4) Well Tooled Flat Head Screwdriver: Nope. I have systematically veered away from any other types of screw other than deep socketed Phillips head screws, notably regular sized drywall screws. Most Phillips heads driver bits are too deep fitting for any cheaper dry wall screw, and thus the need for deep socketed screws, but I hate the "star" driver bits (though everyone raves about them) I just don't see the advantage over getting the properly fitted screw for the properly fitted bit, which makes part of your point, right tool for the right job. Second reason for Philips head is that I want everything streamlined to one bit, no changing out every time I make something.
5) I use razors for cleaning off my vinyl worksurface on my giant work table, which gets glue on it constantly.
6) Grinder: I have three of them, NONE OF THEM ARE WORTH A SHIT... I found them either unbalanced arbors, or the collars for them were unbalanced, to the point where I felt my life was threatened by just standing next to it running!!!! One of them nearly shook the table apart after one minute of running! These were not the cheapest ones! About all I can use them for is a polisher and wire brush wheel! After the third purchase, I was out of budget and patience for the idea, so... that sucked and I still need one- getting a 600$ or more one now is totally out of the budget for the first three I bought!
Boy do I wish we had a grinder. Again, we're a leather shop, so that really means we are full time cutting tool sharpeners, so a power tool that accelerates that process would be of immense value. ALSO, the grinder can be used to burnish leather edges, and for several other leather specific purposes. Seems like all affordable tools these days are just junk, have wonky arbors in this case, or if the tool is good, it costs as much as a Ferrari.
Also, anybody notice there were no yard sales this spring? I didn't see one, not one single yard sale. I did just see an antiques yard sale, so I take it back, but I saw the sign on Sunday, so missed the saturday.
I'm used to 10 yard sales in my area every saturday morning! Anybody notice no yard sales this year?
Bringing up gunsmithing, have you thought about doing a shotgun stock from scratch? So many wood working techniques used. Be a cool video/series. Also, I would suggest the wheeler gunsmith driver bit set for a one and done purchase.
I’m deep down the airgun hole but have never shot a firearm. No access to shotgun. Also, TH-cam nowadays…. Gun mods is fastest way to get deleted.
Keep an eye on the “88 Pellets” channel.
a cheap alternative to popsicle sticks are the (free) coffee joint stirrers:)
The other tool I was thinking of that I like a lot and have a strong preference for is my mallet. I have several types at this point. However, there is really only one that I use. No chance I change at this point.
I use a three-bladed, stockman-style pocket knife, specifically the sheep's foot blade, for marking. I have a spear point knife, but I don't like it much. The biggest drawback is leaving it on the bench instead of dropping it back in my pocket. A trick I have used to improve a mortis and tenon fit is to saturate paper with glue and add it to the tenon. No extra stock removal.
The most misused and abused tool is the common screwdriver. They are meant to turn screws, not pry things.
Hollow ground screwdrivers are significantly better than normal wedge shaped screwdrivers. Small sets of 1/4" bits aren't that expensive, less than a set of cheap wedgeshaped ones from the bargain bin.
I don't like the yankee screwdriver/ drill, but I do like the eggbeater style.
THe common round toothpick is usually made from maple and works well for those tiny jobs and filling a misdrilled hole.
With a bench grinder hollow grinding screwdrivers is possible. A bit tricky, but possible. Screwdrivers work a lot better when they actually fit in screws. Pry bars work better than screwdrivers do at prying too.
I have a strong fondness for my marking knife. I have ones that literally cost 10 times as much. Still, I like the inexpensive $10 one I own.
I purchase pop cycle sticks by the thousands, it’s amazing how many uses there are for them, I also purchase Q tips in large quantities, again, amazing how many uses there are for them in a shop as well. Push drills, I must have a dozen bought at garage sales and I recondition them and instal a specific size drill in each one, they hang on a rack ready to go, I just grab the one I want and away I go. Screw drivers,
Used condiment jars are good for this disposal
❤
Toothpicks and gift cards are great for glue ups.
when the gift cards are at $0 right?
Better than a popsicle stick for spreading glue are unused plastic picnic knives. Not only can spread glue but the teeth provide a measured layer of glue.
As a Doctor i find that tongue depressors work really well as glue spreaders.
1, Where can I find bits for the Buck Rogers pushdrill? 2. Why does anybody use slotted screws? 3. A utility knife blade is not a razor blade
Lee valley, because they’re great, tomatoe toemato
We use slotted screws because we have screwdrivers that fit slotted screws.
Square wooden handled screw drivers, nothing more comfortable to use if you have to do a lot by hand I've got a full set and they are the only screwdrivers I use.
most popsickle sticks & tongue depressors are of white birch
Actually i have a full set of cabinet maker's screwdrivers. Hahaha got them from a pawn shop
We always called it a Yankee drill. Don't know why.
It’s what North Brothers called them.
Here’s a link
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee_screwdriver
That's what Stanley called theirs. I have my dad's 80 yr. old Yankee drill I used to play with as a kid. I had to get a new set of bits.
@@billffromnh Stanley kept the Yankee trade name after they bought North Bros in 1946.
At this point it’s probably a collector point, I buy the N Bros ones when I see because they’re older.
Thanks!
I think the number one under-appreciated tool is the pencil, and even more, the carpenter's pencil.
I will never ever use flat blade screws. Hate them with a passion and they are completely obsolete.
I'm guessing you've only used screws bought in a box. Remember, stuff sold by the oz is generally better. Quality slotted screws might run you a dollar each but they will last many times being inserted and removed. They really are fitted to a specific size screwdriver.
@@wortheffort even the best screws ... when they get seized from corrosion or whatever, you just can't put a good amount of torque on them. If you need to go to boutique stores to buy them, and use unicorn screwdrivers ... what's the point? There are far better options.
Archimedes screw drill driver
That is NOT A RAZOR BLADE! IT is a utility knife blade. Single edge razor blades are thinner and have a dull beam on the top edge. Double edge razor blades are even thinner and have cutting edges on top and bottom.
I've got to say that I think that you are wrong about the slot screwdriver. Yes, that brand is well made ( I have one for specific brass screws for fine box hinges ) but finding properly made slot screws is almost impossible. On the other hand a Robertson driver is the way to go. As long as you buy a good brand of screw. Not the cheap crap that you find in Home Depot.And those are easier to find than well made slot drive screws. And work better.
There, religious rant over. I feel better now.
glue spreader. I like to use my expired credit cards ,I.D. cards, bank cards, gift cards. they spread glue real evenly.
I use toothpicks instead of popsicle sticks
OK, juvenile comment incoming : I always push it in all the way so I can hit the sides
start at 2 minutes, everything before that is a commercial on how great I am....
Every single slotted screw I encounter in my work goes straight into the trash. No exceptions, no delay. Garbage, 100%
Allmost the same here, with the exception of brass screws and rounded ones because they just look better slotted. Piece of advice, create a hollow grind on a slightly too large screwdriver for a "gunsmith" fit.
Allmost the same here, with the exception of brass screws and rounded ones because they just look better slotted. Piece of advice, create a hollow grind on a slightly too large screwdriver for a "gunsmith" fit.
Great video! Thank you.