1991 jeep cherokee. It has made the sound since it was stolen. I got it back ...it had all four loose. Now sounds like new. 220,000 miles and going. Good tip ..i knew last month but I wasn't 100 percent sure. It was stolen for 4 months in 2018. I have let it sit for ever. Been registered and insured. Now it runs like new again.
I had the same problem with my 97xj...the bolts in the flexplate were loose.. I put loctite on the bolts and torque them...I also changed the mount of the transmission...and now my xj is without problem...greetings from México...
I think I spent most of that vid waiting for that oil bead to drop into your camera lense 🤣 I had an 2000 4.0l that sounded like it had a collapsed lifter (shocker I know) turned out to be broken piston skirt. Never heard a broke skirt sound like that before.....fkin 4.0l’s gotta love em lol
Thanks so much man the video was perfect. Well explained and done. You helped me out with my 2000 jeep Cherokee limited I thought it was a piston problem but saw your video and checked mine and sure as hell it was loose.
I've got an '89 Toyota Supra with a very similar transmission (a340E). It's been making noise a lot like this for a few months now, and every "second opinion" seems to think it's a knocking engine because they can't see any visible cracks/all of the bolts are torqued properly. This and your other flex plate inspection video have given me hope-- time to do some investigative surgery!
@@memesyandhorrorshorts mine appears to be the flex plate. I finally broke down and took it to a mechanic. He was not 100% sure it was the flex plate as he couldn't see any cracks but felt confident that the motor was fine so I'm still driving it with the ticking noise. I have looked around and found a good transmission guy and since the tranny separating is a 7 hr job I'm going to get it rebuilt as I've got close to 230,000 miles on it anyways.
Nick, if it isn’t your flex plate... to me (and I am fairly new to 4.0) it sounds like your cam bearings. When you replaced the piston on that engine. I would bet that some metal made it through the cam bearings. It definitely doesn’t sound like a spun rod bearing to me. One last thing you might want to check is your oil filter and see if there is any metal in it.
I think my 2.7L V6 dodge charger 2006 has a spun rod bearings and cracked flex plate / flywheel it sounds like a machine gun faster noise than this but loud lol 😂 it got that rod knock / spun rod bearing sound no check engine light or smoke from the exhaust
well not really. i own the same jeep just 2 years older i know the engine and trans is great so that points out only minor issues with the drivetrain like rn i only need to balance and put some new ujoints on my front driveshaft
Put it in gear with foot on the break and give it some throttle, if it gets louder it's a rod knocking. If it is, at idle pull one plug wire off at a time, whichever one quites it down, is the cylinder knocking. Then pull one plug out at a time, and the noise will nearly disappear on the cylinder if it's a bad rod. If it is a rod knocking that bearing is gone and you'll have metal shavings on the dipstick. A bad rod will knock worse when hot than cold as the oil reaches higher temps.
I had a couple of vehicles make that sound some were flex plate others were rods. We hope for loose bolts. Looking forward to the pan pulling video. I always enjoy your videos.
Oh goodness mine has gotten worse coincidentally since I let it sit a couple months but it’s never been that bad. I’m hoping mine is just loose bolts without any collateral damage. I do think it’s the flex plate in some fashion because it’s louder back there than it is under the oil pan. For months I thought it was the engine starting to go out since 1. 257K miles 2. Previous driver ragged it out like a rental on the road, or this stock XJ as a lifted Wrangler on the trails 3. I did the RMS over the ground and the grass was dead, a lot lot of dirt
you need to mark the first one,so that when it returns you'll know you got them all! It is good idea to tighten them and be sure they are not loose. Some times the inspection plate rubs on the plate and makes a noise
Think I found my problem too. I thought I had a rod knock, but had perfect oil pressure and the noise sounds exactly like this. Will be checking it out tomorrow.
Hey Nick, any update to this? My 4.0 is starting to sound like a diesel at this point - little bit slower and more rhythmic than this, but always worth a look at everything you check on your jeep!
Seriously. The oil pan was dented from the engine guy so I need to seal that up. Seen the oil filter was leaking a little, possibly a little atf or power steering. all sorts of stuff that need attention.
Sounds like a bad rod bearing to me too. BUT one of my mechanic friends that owned a Dodge Jeep Chr dealership says the top end will fool you and sound like the rod bearing a lot on a 4.0. He has also owned about 30 xj's himself. Definate maybe Lol ???
@@NickInTimeFilms only thing is if it's from a bad bearing your crank is done for. It doesn't take long to screw up a journal, you just put new bearings on it, it'll have the same problem in no time. A bad crank journal and or a bad rod will indeed screw up a new bearing.
How many miles do you have on the stroker there Nick? Folks like to say that strokers don't last too long, would rod bearings fit the bill for an aging stroker? Anyhow I think 30k is the number I usually hear interested to hear where you stand.
I'm only at 12k right now. I'm not sure if it was shoddy engine building or what the deal is. I'm using good oil with zddp and not overheating it. Not a lot of fun if you can't open it up with our ruining it.
Didn’t you have a piston score up on the engine soon after it was built? :( I wonder if you have an oil passage restriction somewhere. :( Sorry, I hope it’s something easy and quick to fix.
Bummer man, sorry. That’s the same cylinder that originally scored up. Gotta find out what is happening back there or it will keep having issues. :( But you know that.
Oof, it's a fun ride now partner. I'd have to say HP around 220ish now and 290ft-lb tq. Pulls like a raped ape off the stop light, and would be even faster if I tuned it.
that looks like my Harbor Freight extending 1/2" ratchet, I've had mine for years with only minor issues with the extension getting gummed up, I've loved the thing since I got it and it's outlived other name brand 3/8" ratchets, and even a 1/2" here or there, not bad for $15, I was going to get one for a buddy for christmas and couldn't find it in store anymore
Yeah, all my starter sets were harbor freight, and as long as you're not doing anything wildly stupid they hold up just fine. My HF 3/8 socket set is still my favorite set to this day, have nearly every single size memorized by heart.
Recently I've been noticing a noise too on my 2001 dodge ram van. It isn't loud like yours, but when I start the engine I hear a noise that sounds more like a vacuum noise and it is only there at starting, not running. But I hear another noise when running only a slight ticking that seems to be coming from the transmission/engine area; I checked the flex plate bolts and there are fine, so I don't know what else to think right now, just waiting.
@@cherokeeoff-road2158 Disregard Philip's comment because that is logically not even capable nor true. Metal shavings are not gonna get into the damn engine. The REA MAIN SEAL will not allow it. If the PLATE shitters, it will simply clatter around, be rough, and may damage the bellhousing. 2nd, flexplate cracks don't cause such a noise, it's less distinct. You can check easily for cracks by starting it up without the lower plate on and seeing if it's wobbling, if not, it's not cracked. Yours is not cracked. You have a completely different problem buddy. Time to pull the pan and inspect the oil pump, the cam drive on the cam sensor. Check every rod bearing, main bearing, you may have to go further and pull the head and free spin the block to listen for what i call "Inner piston noise". This noise is the wrist pin play by a cracked skirt(I say that because I'm in the middle of replacing 3 and 4 pistons because of it. My diagnosis led riht to it and will verify tomorrow after I pull the pistons out. one if not both are rattling. When it's started, it sounded like a skirt fell or clattering from a piece of cast or something bouncing around in the bore... nope.
@@cherokeeoff-road2158 At least you got to the bottom of it and fixed it. Good deal man. I also meant to say "MAY NOT be cracked", I never speak like I'm God lol sorry about that, but the fact is you fixed.
My 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo has had a tapping noise for a while now. I am told not to worry about it. Any idea what is causing the tapping noise and how serious is it: Thank you,
nick show what that noise is doing on the rem module....im curious to see if the noise is causing the knock sensor to go beserk.... Ill make a guess at the noise though: wrist pin or broken piston skirt.
That muffler is fuckin shot, Hahaha. It was ripped all around the front flange and pierced on the bottom. May get a new one, may spend half an hour welding all the holes
Hi friend whats the issue I have same sound, thinking of flex plate (Flywheel), but it's OK no crack I'll check with camera and take the video cause I've seen in comment that this was your issue but watching like this not clear so ill insert my phone with a stick while it's recording to get clear view of flex plate cause my flex plate is missing in my pathfinder r51 2007 4wd hope I got the issue
perfect video - I'm also dealing with the infamous 4.0 knocking noise which comes not necessarily from the bell housing. Checked up with a stethoscope at the bell housing and my knocking comes from the back of the oil pan. Your thoughts ? Thanks !
Bearing, Pistons, Rods. Drop oil pan UGHHH Take the pickup and oil pump out before completing the job if it is in the way, pull the girdle and check them out. May as well replace all that you took off. Who wants to do that again?? Not ME!!
hearing it at the end of the video makes me wonder as the noise seemed to get faster (either more than 1 cyl knocking around or its something rotational like flexplate on the crank not converter on flexplate) should try to flex the flex plate while under there (pry bar or some shit) to see if it moved, ive had one sound similar with the plate cracked on only 1 of the 6 bolts that bolt it to the crank
Did you find the solution? I have a Chrysler Sebring convertible (1g - 1998) and had the same noise and symptoms. Initially the noise will go if I accelerate beyond 3500rpm . Usually had the noise when first started the car in the morning. One day the noise won't go even If I rpm the engine beyond 3500. Well.. I have a Facebook group and posted videos, etc. A guy named the flex plate so I ended up watching this video (and others). Long story short, I took the car to a transmission specialist, removed the starter, etc.. checked the plate... Blah blah blah.. and the noise was still there. Got a mini camera and saw that the CKP sensor was loose. It was getting into the crankshaft. Crazy. Now the car runs perfectly and no more noise. Hope someone can fix this simple problem that sounds ugly and expensive but costs nothing.
Have a similar experience right now! Did heads on shitbaru and after few minutes of its first start it sounds like this. I know it is not motor but have to drop trans
I won't begin to "guess" what it could be but you are on to something, "if it increases with RPM". I am curious to find out what it could be. I always listen to how mine runs, hardly listen to music when I riding in it. Hope you figure it out.
Not 100% sure, but they have to specifically be flex plate bolts, not normal stuff from the hardware store. A quick google search shows this, but can't confirm if that's an exact fit: JEP1949765
I have same issue on CHevy 97...check bolts on cover plate -sheetmetal, check if starter slide correctly back to possition,....i had this 5 times and my starter is broken now. may it is not coused by starter but i will se after instaling the new one...my starter dont slide back ccorrectly and had poor energy if i tested by connecting to battery..
Hey I have a similar noise with no loss of power and that noise is only present during a start up (louder on a cold start) and goes away after any amount of throttle and gone when driving until you start it up again... any idea what that could be (haven’t noticed a power loss)
Wonder if the oil pressure related. Maybe something is dry and fills up after oil has circulated. The lifters are hydraulicly set with pressure, so maybe they bleed down. Hard to say, engine noise can be caused by lots of things
Bob Smith I have the exact same issue as you! Mine was fine, but after 6 weeks off, transmission in and out, it started up like it had no exhaust manifold! Would really like to know what you figure out.
Nick, I think you’ll be just as satisfied as the internet when you pulled the cover to show us the bolts and realize it’s bottom end of the motor. Lol Can’t wait for the video
Great video man! I was wondering if you have ever heard of the Aw4 torque converter lock up problem? Whenever I drive my Jeep for the first time of the day and turn it off when I go back to drive it and put it drive the Jeep is stuttering and like almost wants to die. But if I put on the break and stop completely you feel what I assume is the torque converter locking up then it’s good to go. No issues other than that. And only does it when I drive it around then turn off and it’s warm and when I go back to drive it
That is really weird. The TC locks the transmission to the engine which would cause it to stall if you weren't moving. What year? Maybe a transmission monitor might help tell you what's wrong
NickInTimeFilms mine is a 99 and it’s done that for over 5 years now lol. But I found if I come to a complete stop it locks the converter or something and it’s good to go. But if I don’t stop and keep pressing the gas popping noises will occur and eventually lock up the converter. I’ve tried the forms and found very little. Figured you might have heard about it
I got my Comanche from my dad because he didn’t trust it. Ended up being a broken flex plate that would come and go. It was cracked at the crank bolts.
That mat you laid down looks like you stole it from a 60 year old homeless man who has been homeless his whole life but also used it as his toilet. If you ain't using one like that to work on your jeep then you ain't really workin. Ive had the same old dirty blanket in the back of my 02 wj ever since I bought it
Niiiice thats better than doing the bearings or top end happy for you. My 2001 xj is starting to make a similar noise but its intermittent doesnt seem to make it as much when driving around but at idle its really noticeable. At first i thought i was the exhaust cuz the mounting parts busted off and its just resting on frame supports but definitely think its this issue now listening to yours and its leaking around the inspection plate area. Really appreciate the time you took to make this video and i think your jeep is bad ass brother. God bless.
@@NickInTimeFilms That's true. I haven't done any kind of in depth engine work in awhile, with the exception of changing the real main seal on a 2001 Cherokee a couple years ago. I don't look forward to possibly tearing into my Merkur engine in the future ...
@@NickInTimeFilms Yeah, but rod bearings don't just go bad for no reason. Not enough miles on that engine, unless it ran really low on oil at some point.
Sounds like a rod bearing. Check out my Jeep on my channel. I was trying to diagnose the sound for a friend to hear later, I wasn't expecting it since it started the day before.
My 90 Cherokee Renix cracked the flexplate several years ago. Sounded very similar. However, the crack was not visible until I removed the flexplate. It was cracked about 90% of the circumference right where it bolts to the crank. If the noise is changing or coming and going, it might be the problem. Bad rod bearings don't come and go; once they're burned, they often loosen and spin, blocking the oiling passage and continue to hammer away.
Sometimes, we would remove the flexplate bolts and push the torque converter back for clearance, then start the engine for a moment to see if the noise changes or goes away. If the hammering is unchanged, it's probably a rod.
Who else is staring at the oil pan around 3:44 like come on you bastard drip. You know you want to....
I know when I was underneath mine I was just waiting for it to drip on me.
The notorious rear seal leak
@@Gonzo.S.Thompson If it was *me* under there, Straight in the eye is a given. :(
1991 jeep cherokee. It has made the sound since it was stolen. I got it back ...it had all four loose. Now sounds like new. 220,000 miles and going. Good tip ..i knew last month but I wasn't 100 percent sure. It was stolen for 4 months in 2018. I have let it sit for ever. Been registered and insured. Now it runs like new again.
I had the same problem with my 97xj...the bolts in the flexplate were loose.. I put loctite on the bolts and torque them...I also changed the mount of the transmission...and now my xj is without problem...greetings from México...
Aratinga MX you’re lucky it was the bolts! How come they were loose? Also, how did it sound when it was loose
Does it cause the car to not start I found a bolt that came off in there
How did you get to the flex plate to block bolts? The tc bolts are easy but I’m suspecting not my issue.
I think I spent most of that vid waiting for that oil bead to drop into your camera lense 🤣 I had an 2000 4.0l that sounded like it had a collapsed lifter (shocker I know) turned out to be broken piston skirt. Never heard a broke skirt sound like that before.....fkin 4.0l’s gotta love em lol
Thanks so much man the video was perfect. Well explained and done. You helped me out with my 2000 jeep Cherokee limited I thought it was a piston problem but saw your video and checked mine and sure as hell it was loose.
My 96 XJ is not rattling anymore! Thank you!
Check the starter, they also start tapping once the go loose.
I've got an '89 Toyota Supra with a very similar transmission (a340E). It's been making noise a lot like this for a few months now, and every "second opinion" seems to think it's a knocking engine because they can't see any visible cracks/all of the bolts are torqued properly. This and your other flex plate inspection video have given me hope-- time to do some investigative surgery!
Sorry to bother you but was your issue actually the flex plate?
Thanks in advance,
Marty
@@martymcfly3825 I have same issue only I think the engine is blown up I bought the car like this hoping it the flex plate or flywheel
@@memesyandhorrorshorts mine appears to be the flex plate. I finally broke down and took it to a mechanic. He was not 100% sure it was the flex plate as he couldn't see any cracks but felt confident that the motor was fine so I'm still driving it with the ticking noise. I have looked around and found a good transmission guy and since the tranny separating is a 7 hr job I'm going to get it rebuilt as I've got close to 230,000 miles on it anyways.
Nick, if it isn’t your flex plate... to me (and I am fairly new to 4.0) it sounds like your cam bearings. When you replaced the piston on that engine. I would bet that some metal made it through the cam bearings. It definitely doesn’t sound like a spun rod bearing to me. One last thing you might want to check is your oil filter and see if there is any metal in it.
I think my 2.7L V6 dodge charger 2006 has a spun rod bearings and cracked flex plate / flywheel it sounds like a machine gun faster noise than this but loud lol 😂 it got that rod knock / spun rod bearing sound no check engine light or smoke from the exhaust
Owning an older vehicle = "It's always something" going wrong.
well not really. i own the same jeep just 2 years older i know the engine and trans is great so that points out only minor issues with the drivetrain like rn i only need to balance and put some new ujoints on my front driveshaft
Put it in gear with foot on the break and give it some throttle, if it gets louder it's a rod knocking. If it is, at idle pull one plug wire off at a time, whichever one quites it down, is the cylinder knocking. Then pull one plug out at a time, and the noise will nearly disappear on the cylinder if it's a bad rod. If it is a rod knocking that bearing is gone and you'll have metal shavings on the dipstick. A bad rod will knock worse when hot than cold as the oil reaches higher temps.
Thanks for this information I will try it although I think my engine is blown up I bought the car like this
I had a couple of vehicles make that sound some were flex plate others were rods. We hope for loose bolts. Looking forward to the pan pulling video. I always enjoy your videos.
Ravenwood was it loose bolts?
I waited for this entire video to see that little drop of Hero oil to fall.
😂
🤣🤣☝️
Oh goodness mine has gotten worse coincidentally since I let it sit a couple months but it’s never been that bad. I’m hoping mine is just loose bolts without any collateral damage. I do think it’s the flex plate in some fashion because it’s louder back there than it is under the oil pan.
For months I thought it was the engine starting to go out since 1. 257K miles 2. Previous driver ragged it out like a rental on the road, or this stock XJ as a lifted Wrangler on the trails 3. I did the RMS over the ground and the grass was dead, a lot lot of dirt
you need to mark the first one,so that when it returns you'll know you got them all! It is good idea to tighten them and be sure they are not loose. Some times the inspection plate rubs on the plate and makes a noise
Think I found my problem too. I thought I had a rod knock, but had perfect oil pressure and the noise sounds exactly like this. Will be checking it out tomorrow.
Michael Sammy So what did you find out? I have the same issue!
Any Answers Please ;) haha
So what's did you find out?? I have the same issue.
Great video, love the comical commentary btw, a Mel Blanc fan possibly?...hahaha...off to Part Deux!!
Hey Nick, any update to this? My 4.0 is starting to sound like a diesel at this point - little bit slower and more rhythmic than this, but always worth a look at everything you check on your jeep!
I actually just ordered a new flex plate the other day. Waiting for it to ship do I can swap it and see if this is it.
Was that the problem the flexplate
Yep, all better now
@@NickInTimeFilms did the flex plate have visible cracks? I’m having the same issue on a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 360.
It was only barely visible once it was removed.
I had two bolts in mine almost backed all the way out. Thought I had tore the motor up. Lol mines an 89 also. 301k and still going strong
My 89toyo 4Runner AW4 would make a crunch noise every time it would shift. My flex plate fell apart in my hands when I took it out.
Nick trust me its 100% your flex plate. A good way to tell ia hit the brake and gas while its ticking it will go away.
They crack behind the crank where you cant see them. Ive done 4 of them.
I did the test you said brake and accelerator at same time, noise went away. So i need to replace flexplate? Mi xj is 2wd automatic 2001
Does it can be welded?
You cant weld them they are ballanced they are around $100 us new
@@strictlyxjs8750 mine is noisy and spins woobling a little bit but it woobles
Next up maybe you should chase down some oil leaks lol
Seriously. The oil pan was dented from the engine guy so I need to seal that up. Seen the oil filter was leaking a little, possibly a little atf or power steering. all sorts of stuff that need attention.
Probably the oil filter adapter seal. Most common. My Cherokee looks exactly the same
Mine made the sound n didn’t look loose but all my bolts were two turns loose!! Thanks saved my ass
Damn I’ve got 360k on my xj now an no issues yet thank goodness it’s my dd
Sounds like a bad rod bearing to me too. BUT one of my mechanic friends that owned a Dodge Jeep Chr dealership says the top end will fool you and sound like the rod bearing a lot on a 4.0. He has also owned about 30 xj's himself. Definate maybe Lol ???
I hope that's what my problem is. I was told it's a busted piston or lifter. Not sure but I hope this is my problem lol
It could also be the bolts that Bolt the flexplate to the back of the crank
I sure as hell hope not. I'd easily pull the pan and replace all the crank bearings before i pull that damn trans again.
@@NickInTimeFilms only thing is if it's from a bad bearing your crank is done for. It doesn't take long to screw up a journal, you just put new bearings on it, it'll have the same problem in no time. A bad crank journal and or a bad rod will indeed screw up a new bearing.
Dude i cant get that 13mm to come loose at all. I just wna fix my knock damnit
Thanks for the share.
It will help me fixing my 727.
How many miles do you have on the stroker there Nick? Folks like to say that strokers don't last too long, would rod bearings fit the bill for an aging stroker? Anyhow I think 30k is the number I usually hear interested to hear where you stand.
I'm only at 12k right now. I'm not sure if it was shoddy engine building or what the deal is. I'm using good oil with zddp and not overheating it. Not a lot of fun if you can't open it up with our ruining it.
Didn’t you have a piston score up on the engine soon after it was built? :( I wonder if you have an oil passage restriction somewhere.
:( Sorry, I hope it’s something easy and quick to fix.
Yep, cylinder 6 wrist pin shat the bed. Guess we'll find out for sure when I feel like tearing into it.
Bummer man, sorry. That’s the same cylinder that originally scored up. Gotta find out what is happening back there or it will keep having issues. :( But you know that.
I haven't confirmed what the current issue is, just that it was Cyl 6 last time.
Hope you find the issue without too much pain.👍
How noticeable is the power difference from building a stroker vs. A stock 4.0??
He used to have a sad old renix and went HO tb and intake manifold and stroker I'm sure he has waaay more ponies to the pavement
Oof, it's a fun ride now partner. I'd have to say HP around 220ish now and 290ft-lb tq. Pulls like a raped ape off the stop light, and would be even faster if I tuned it.
ouch.. maybe some percussive maintenance will help... lol, when in doubt, hammer out.
Iddddddk, engine has been quite percussive and doesn't seem to be helping, haha
Maybe mounts? Maybe the bolts coming loose on them or mounts wearing out in a way transfering engine vibrations to the bolts and/or mount surfaces.
Redo your test but engage and disengage the transmission id the sound changes then it's 100% your flex plate
that looks like my Harbor Freight extending 1/2" ratchet, I've had mine for years with only minor issues with the extension getting gummed up, I've loved the thing since I got it and it's outlived other name brand 3/8" ratchets, and even a 1/2" here or there, not bad for $15, I was going to get one for a buddy for christmas and couldn't find it in store anymore
Yeah, all my starter sets were harbor freight, and as long as you're not doing anything wildly stupid they hold up just fine. My HF 3/8 socket set is still my favorite set to this day, have nearly every single size memorized by heart.
Need to check the bolts holding the flex plate to the crankshaft.
Also the dalpins
Recently I've been noticing a noise too on my 2001 dodge ram van. It isn't loud like yours, but when I start the engine I hear a noise that sounds more like a vacuum noise and it is only there at starting, not running. But I hear another noise when running only a slight ticking that seems to be coming from the transmission/engine area; I checked the flex plate bolts and there are fine, so I don't know what else to think right now, just waiting.
Bro you might want to look ip the hemi tick
I've seen this problem plenty enough times. It's the flexplate. You have to remove it to see the cracks.
Is it bad if I keep running my jeep with this noise ?
@Cherokee Off-road:No,if the flexplate breaks it can shatter and metal shavings can get inside the engine and mess the whole thing up
@@cherokeeoff-road2158 Disregard Philip's comment because that is logically not even capable nor true. Metal shavings are not gonna get into the damn engine. The REA MAIN SEAL will not allow it. If the PLATE shitters, it will simply clatter around, be rough, and may damage the bellhousing. 2nd, flexplate cracks don't cause such a noise, it's less distinct. You can check easily for cracks by starting it up without the lower plate on and seeing if it's wobbling, if not, it's not cracked. Yours is not cracked. You have a completely different problem buddy.
Time to pull the pan and inspect the oil pump, the cam drive on the cam sensor. Check every rod bearing, main bearing, you may have to go further and pull the head and free spin the block to listen for what i call "Inner piston noise". This noise is the wrist pin play by a cracked skirt(I say that because I'm in the middle of replacing 3 and 4 pistons because of it. My diagnosis led riht to it and will verify tomorrow after I pull the pistons out. one if not both are rattling. When it's started, it sounded like a skirt fell or clattering from a piece of cast or something bouncing around in the bore... nope.
@@tonypmedia thanks i fixed it and it was my flex plate didnt drive it in the meantime to not risk anything
@@cherokeeoff-road2158 At least you got to the bottom of it and fixed it. Good deal man. I also meant to say "MAY NOT be cracked", I never speak like I'm God lol sorry about that, but the fact is you fixed.
My 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo has had a tapping noise for a while now. I am told not to worry about it. Any idea what is causing the tapping noise and how serious is it: Thank you,
nick show what that noise is doing on the rem module....im curious to see if the noise is causing the knock sensor to go beserk....
Ill make a guess at the noise though:
wrist pin or broken piston skirt.
Fix that exhaust leak already god damn😂😂
That muffler is fuckin shot, Hahaha. It was ripped all around the front flange and pierced on the bottom. May get a new one, may spend half an hour welding all the holes
Hi friend whats the issue I have same sound, thinking of flex plate (Flywheel), but it's OK no crack I'll check with camera and take the video cause I've seen in comment that this was your issue but watching like this not clear so ill insert my phone with a stick while it's recording to get clear view of flex plate cause my flex plate is missing in my pathfinder r51 2007 4wd hope I got the issue
perfect video - I'm also dealing with the infamous 4.0 knocking noise which comes not necessarily from the bell housing. Checked up with a stethoscope at the bell housing and my knocking comes from the back of the oil pan. Your thoughts ? Thanks !
Bearing, Pistons, Rods. Drop oil pan UGHHH Take the pickup and oil pump out before completing the job if it is in the way, pull the girdle and check them out. May as well replace all that you took off. Who wants to do that again?? Not ME!!
hearing it at the end of the video makes me wonder as the noise seemed to get faster (either more than 1 cyl knocking around or its something rotational like flexplate on the crank not converter on flexplate)
should try to flex the flex plate while under there (pry bar or some shit) to see if it moved, ive had one sound similar with the plate cracked on only 1 of the 6 bolts that bolt it to the crank
I agree. I saw another vid, where the bolts were secure, but the flexplate was cracked.
Mine also makes noise but not as much. Do you think this could also make my Jeep wobble when I accelerate fast from a dead stop?
Did you find the solution? I have a Chrysler Sebring convertible (1g - 1998) and had the same noise and symptoms. Initially the noise will go if I accelerate beyond 3500rpm . Usually had the noise when first started the car in the morning. One day the noise won't go even If I rpm the engine beyond 3500.
Well.. I have a Facebook group and posted videos, etc. A guy named the flex plate so I ended up watching this video (and others). Long story short, I took the car to a transmission specialist, removed the starter, etc.. checked the plate... Blah blah blah.. and the noise was still there. Got a mini camera and saw that the CKP sensor was loose. It was getting into the crankshaft. Crazy. Now the car runs perfectly and no more noise. Hope someone can fix this simple problem that sounds ugly and expensive but costs nothing.
Thanks
Sounds wristpin-ish but Still could be a rod. What oil and pump have u been running?
Stock pump, mostly part synthetic with a zddp additive, last fill was with Rotella 15w40 when I was in moab
Have you already checked the harmonic balancer tapping the timing cover? At idle does it sound like a diesel?
Harmonic Balancer is fine, that will sound more like a squeaking belt. This is loud tappy so something bottom end and unhappy.
Was there ever a follow up - fixed or not?
Yes, check the flexplate replacement video. It was cracked at the crank where it's hard to see
Thanks for your vid! Whats the CAT 5 cable for?
That's for my custom made scan tool for renix Jeeps, the REM Renix Engine Monitor.
Have a similar experience right now! Did heads on shitbaru and after few minutes of its first start it sounds like this. I know it is not motor but have to drop trans
My Jeep is doing the same thing with the same noise. I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee and put a 99 straight 6 4.0 in it and was told it was the fly wheel.
Damn bro
Did the noise come when it was on gear or as soon as you turned it on?
It was more temperature based, but when the engine was hot it would happen right when it was started.
Did you take it to a shop or do it yourself?
Did it myself, whole video on the process.
I won't begin to "guess" what it could be but you are on to something, "if it increases with RPM". I am curious to find out what it could be. I always listen to how mine runs, hardly listen to music when I riding in it. Hope you figure it out.
I bet it was the flex plate but from being warped not cracked or loose bolts in this case, any updates for us?
Flex plate was cracked, could only see it once the transmission was pulled. Bell housing was missing bolts, betting that's what caused the cracking.
for the love of god anything but rod knock.
That joke.....Oof!
I am missing the bolts to my flex plate cover. Can you tell me what size they are so I can put the one I got on?
Not 100% sure, but they have to specifically be flex plate bolts, not normal stuff from the hardware store. A quick google search shows this, but can't confirm if that's an exact fit: JEP1949765
yea it got down to -2 last night here in groveport ohio.
It's the capitulater valve. Pretty sure.
wasn't the flex plate in the video cracked????
It was cracked behind the retainer ring, couldn't see it till it was pulled
My Xj is doing the same thing, thanks for your video!!!
Sounds like a rod but u should have very low oil psi if it is
Bad starter will cause that also it’s not going all the way back In and sprocket is hitting flywheel
It sounds like a worn connecting rod bearing to me, you could maybe try a heavier weight oil to see if it quiets down
sounds way to fast for rod knock at idle....
besides rod knock isnt intermittent....
im thinking wrist pin or broken piston skirt
Mike Harris I’m thinking if he had one of those issues though he’d have a ton of smoke from oil blow by
Good stuff thank you
I was fairly certain early in the video that it wouldn't be a flex plate issue.
Me too 😂
I have same issue on CHevy 97...check bolts on cover plate -sheetmetal, check if starter slide correctly back to possition,....i had this 5 times and my starter is broken now. may it is not coused by starter but i will se after instaling the new one...my starter dont slide back ccorrectly and had poor energy if i tested by connecting to battery..
What are you saying? Did your starter crack the flexplate?
@@234dilligaf only sheetmetal cover of Flexplate - missing bolt and shhet metal do steel sounds from vibration
Hey I have a similar noise with no loss of power and that noise is only present during a start up (louder on a cold start) and goes away after any amount of throttle and gone when driving until you start it up again... any idea what that could be (haven’t noticed a power loss)
Wonder if the oil pressure related. Maybe something is dry and fills up after oil has circulated. The lifters are hydraulicly set with pressure, so maybe they bleed down. Hard to say, engine noise can be caused by lots of things
Bob Smith I have the exact same issue as you!
Mine was fine, but after 6 weeks off, transmission in and out, it started up like it had no exhaust manifold!
Would really like to know what you figure out.
Any news on the sound?? Did the noise go away with your new flexplate?
I have the same noise but it goes away when i am driving but comes back when i stop. What do you think?
Definitely could be the flexplate
Sounds like a cracked flexplate. Broken in the center, where it bolts up to the crankshaft.
Muffler bearings
Bingo, finally someone gets it.
Nick, I think you’ll be just as satisfied as the internet when you pulled the cover to show us the bolts and realize it’s bottom end of the motor. Lol
Can’t wait for the video
Blinker fluid maybe ?
My brand new stroker started making this noise after 20 miles during a hard uphill pull fingers crossed it's the old flex plate and not rod knock.
Great video man! I was wondering if you have ever heard of the Aw4 torque converter lock up problem? Whenever I drive my Jeep for the first time of the day and turn it off when I go back to drive it and put it drive the Jeep is stuttering and like almost wants to die. But if I put on the break and stop completely you feel what I assume is the torque converter locking up then it’s good to go. No issues other than that. And only does it when I drive it around then turn off and it’s warm and when I go back to drive it
That is really weird. The TC locks the transmission to the engine which would cause it to stall if you weren't moving. What year? Maybe a transmission monitor might help tell you what's wrong
NickInTimeFilms mine is a 99 and it’s done that for over 5 years now lol. But I found if I come to a complete stop it locks the converter or something and it’s good to go. But if I don’t stop and keep pressing the gas popping noises will occur and eventually lock up the converter. I’ve tried the forms and found very little. Figured you might have heard about it
I have the Same problem but with a envoy
You should still feel them with the ratchet, could be loose.
ohh boy
hope i called it
damnit to bad it wasnt something simple as that
I got my Comanche from my dad because he didn’t trust it. Ended up being a broken flex plate that would come and go. It was cracked at the crank bolts.
I'd sooner pull the pan then I would the transmission. My bets are not on the flex plate. May the Torque specs be in my favor
Stethoscope!
That's what I thought it was
Results?
Cracked Flex plate was replaced in a later video and the noise went away.
with it running disconnect a plug wire one at a time and see if the noise lessens in that cylinder...
Holly shit man,!! That does not sound good at all.!! I hope mine never sounds like that!!!
It will
That mat you laid down looks like you stole it from a 60 year old homeless man who has been homeless his whole life but also used it as his toilet. If you ain't using one like that to work on your jeep then you ain't really workin. Ive had the same old dirty blanket in the back of my 02 wj ever since I bought it
Its a jeep straight 6 thats the problem bearing knock
hey nick did you figure it out yet?
No, it is way too bad outside to tear into it. I'll be looking up some quick tests eventually
Any luck figuring the issue out?
Yeah, the transmission was missing a few bolts and the plate was cracked right in the middle
Niiiice thats better than doing the bearings or top end happy for you. My 2001 xj is starting to make a similar noise but its intermittent doesnt seem to make it as much when driving around but at idle its really noticeable. At first i thought i was the exhaust cuz the mounting parts busted off and its just resting on frame supports but definitely think its this issue now listening to yours and its leaking around the inspection plate area. Really appreciate the time you took to make this video and i think your jeep is bad ass brother. God bless.
@@NickInTimeFilms did you also noticed any performance issues on the car while all this was going on?
Damn, that really blows if it's a rod knock.
Ehh, tossing on new bearings ain't no thang. Better then pulling the head for lifters
@@NickInTimeFilms That's true. I haven't done any kind of in depth engine work in awhile, with the exception of changing the real main seal on a 2001 Cherokee a couple years ago. I don't look forward to possibly tearing into my Merkur engine in the future ...
@@NickInTimeFilms Yeah, but rod bearings don't just go bad for no reason. Not enough miles on that engine, unless it ran really low on oil at some point.
On 6:22 I thought I seen a crack toward the bottom right
Patriot 72 that’s just the lip of the gear that’s welded to the plate
My vehicle sound like this. What was the problem?
It was cracked right at the middle where i couldn't see. video on replacement later.
NickInTimeFilms that’s good it was replace but how does it crack?
I found a loose bolt or 2 which probably put a lot of stress on the flexplate. That's my best guess.
I should clarify, a loose bellhousing bolt that bolts the trans to the engine.
NickInTimeFilms okay. I have the same problem. How long did you drive on it? I need at least 2 months to come up with some money for it
Dude, flex plate to crank bolt or bolts loose.
It ended up being a cracked plate right by the crank. The bell housing bolts were loose though, which probably caused the crack.
Well what did it end up being?
It was the flex plate, cracked up at the crankshaft
NickInTimeFilms thankyou sir not many people get back with a response
@@KingEdward317 very correct. I'd check mine tomorrow too
Dxta what do mean
@@KingEdward317 I meant I would also check my transmission flex plate tomorrow.
More problems with that motor? Maybe its time to build your own
Mine does exactly the same thing :/
the starter bendix is losse that is the problem
harmonic balancer
Negitvity, that makes a squeaking noise, this is a knock
Sounds like a rod bearing. Check out my Jeep on my channel. I was trying to diagnose the sound for a friend to hear later, I wasn't expecting it since it started the day before.
It did end up being a cracked flexplate, they were just so far up you couldn't see them.
My 90 Cherokee Renix cracked the flexplate several years ago. Sounded very similar. However, the crack was not visible until I removed the flexplate. It was cracked about 90% of the circumference right where it bolts to the crank. If the noise is changing or coming and going, it might be the problem. Bad rod bearings don't come and go; once they're burned, they often loosen and spin, blocking the oiling passage and continue to hammer away.
BTW, try using a stethoscope to narrow in on the location.
Sometimes, we would remove the flexplate bolts and push the torque converter back for clearance, then start the engine for a moment to see if the noise changes or goes away. If the hammering is unchanged, it's probably a rod.
Sounds like a kanooter valve to me... lol...