I feel the same way as you do. I hate the way things are engineered on the vehicles of today. Everything that needs to be replaced is put in the most inconvenient place's. And I don't think that these vehicles needs all of these electronic gadgets on them. Then some of the electronic gadgets has these to five wiring connectors to them when on one would do. The engineers in the design department thinks that they are designing a plane or a rocket when they are designing these vehicles. They need to go back to designing vehicles simple and easier like they used to be back in the good old days.
You need a bit of solder on the iron tip to help transfer the heat. I reflowed mine and still have the parking brake light and service brake system on dash.
Needa raise the temp on your soldering iron. If you have to sit there n wait... its too cold n you can actually do damage to the board as your heating the whole thing up. Higher heat instantly melts the solder and the heat doesnt have enough time to travel
I don't lower the temp of my soldering iron... I just have a terrible time keeping them clean it seems. I can clean with steel wool, solder one thing, and then boom it's back to dirty and needing a cleaning
I got this message after just changing the pads and rotor on a 2003 Avalanche. Bled like I usually do, and did the automated bleed with my scan tool, no codes in the ABS module.
interestingly mine popped up after changing brake pads too, but went away with the fix in the video. My brake booster also died when I changed brake pads. And I am not one who forces the fluid back through - I open bleeder valves to spread calipers and then I refill and bleed the whole system, so it seems odd that both went bad simultaneously
Were you having a "no communication" problem with abs module as well?? The rants & opinions that you recieved complaints about are fine/great, no problems here. Keep going!
I just had my booster replaced less than a month ago and it worked just fine after that up until today. My breaks stiffened and the service brake system came up on my dash....what could be the issue?!?!
my issue was opposite... brake pedal went right to the floor... when I replaced my booster it fixed the soft pedal immediately. Having a pedal that is too firm sounds like a clog in the system somewhere not allowing the fluid to flow or your calipers might be locked up
I would consider liking this video but... having to listen to your theories, complaints & rants just to get to the relative data scattered through the video will prevent that. A more focused & concise instructional video is what's needed.
if no leaks my guess would be failed brake booster. My brake pedal was dropping to the floor with no effort. Replaced my brake booster and all is back to normal.
I'm not aware of these downshifting to provide "engine braking." My Charger police car clearly does and when I had the Caprice it was even mentioned in the owner's manual that it would try to anticipate it and downshift.
@@WJHandyDad it was my speed transmission sensor. It was 23 bucks and my truck shifts normal again with no dash lights anymore It literally took 5 to 10 minutes to change
@@tylerrobison3045 mine was the same and it was the TCM. I soldered a wire to one of the tcm pegs and grounded it to my frame rail. It’s a temporary solution to get the truck on the road while I wait for a TCM.
Sorry my men,I got the same crazy situación but I do not know if that is my problem,I got just abs on but I instal all brake lines and now I got code where said,wheel sensors missing,selenoid error,etc etc
Mine is having the same issue, right after a brake job too where I got new calipers, in your case was the petal also firm until the vehicle ran and then it would become spongy?
my brake pedal got very spongy after I changed brake pads. I bled and bled and bled the brakes (including ABS bleeds) but nothing helped. Then I replaced the brake booster and boom, fixed imediately
@@Junk_and_disorderly I don't know, I thought I did. They look like probably T20 or T25? Take your torx bits and test fit in the easiest one to access to make sure
I haven't run across that, but I would assume it's probably a bad solder point in the cluster somewhere. Check out Jeffescortix channel - he shows videos how to fix them but also fixes them too if it's beyond your DIY skills
Unfortunately I cannot answer that question because I have no way to know. All I can say is Chevy recommends having the vehicle towed for repairs immediately rather than driving with it in that condition.
I feel the same way as you do. I hate the way things are engineered on the vehicles of today. Everything that needs to be replaced is put in the most inconvenient place's. And I don't think that these vehicles needs all of these electronic gadgets on them. Then some of the electronic gadgets has these to five wiring connectors to them when on one would do. The engineers in the design department thinks that they are designing a plane or a rocket when they are designing these vehicles. They need to go back to designing vehicles simple and easier like they used to be back in the good old days.
I’m doing this job soon for my 07 Tahoe. Thx for the info brother
Good luck with it. The most difficult part is removing it from the vehicle. Those torx screws are downright annoying!
You need a bit of solder on the iron tip to help transfer the heat.
I reflowed mine and still have the parking brake light and service brake system on dash.
Thanks for sharing this. Will be trying it on Friday.
good luck, bring lots of patience with you when you go to remove that EBCM module!
@@WJHandyDad Everything went well. I think it might have been harder to get the old sealant off than it was dealing with the bolts.😁
What size torx screw did you use?
Needa raise the temp on your soldering iron. If you have to sit there n wait... its too cold n you can actually do damage to the board as your heating the whole thing up. Higher heat instantly melts the solder and the heat doesnt have enough time to travel
I don't lower the temp of my soldering iron... I just have a terrible time keeping them clean it seems. I can clean with steel wool, solder one thing, and then boom it's back to dirty and needing a cleaning
I got this message after just changing the pads and rotor on a 2003 Avalanche. Bled like I usually do, and did the automated bleed with my scan tool, no codes in the ABS module.
interestingly mine popped up after changing brake pads too, but went away with the fix in the video. My brake booster also died when I changed brake pads. And I am not one who forces the fluid back through - I open bleeder valves to spread calipers and then I refill and bleed the whole system, so it seems odd that both went bad simultaneously
03 Chevy 2500 HD 8.1 only comes on in the Am then goes off
Were you having a "no communication" problem with abs module as well??
The rants & opinions that you recieved complaints about are fine/great, no problems here. Keep going!
Good job, good work.
-Chuck
Pulling the abs fuse also cures abs gremlins
I guess for a temporary "fix" that will work. Certainly easier than trying to access the EBCM
How much does a repair like this cost anyone?
Just showing a client this who’s in need of a vehicle.
thanks for stopping by
@@WJHandyDad You are welcome.
So my Yukon reads check brake system across the dashboard but no lights or on ??
the thing I showed in the video is extremely common so worth doing if you can stand climbing under there to retrieve the EBCM
I just had my booster replaced less than a month ago and it worked just fine after that up until today. My breaks stiffened and the service brake system came up on my dash....what could be the issue?!?!
my issue was opposite... brake pedal went right to the floor... when I replaced my booster it fixed the soft pedal immediately. Having a pedal that is too firm sounds like a clog in the system somewhere not allowing the fluid to flow or your calipers might be locked up
I would consider liking this video but... having to listen to your theories, complaints & rants just to get to the relative data scattered through the video will prevent that. A more focused & concise instructional video is what's needed.
well thanks for watching and glad it was helpful. The rants are important to get the message out that engineers don't need to be stupid
Nice job, Sir!
My pedal went to the floor and the warming came on and I figured a brake line busted again but there's no leaks I can find anywhere.
if no leaks my guess would be failed brake booster. My brake pedal was dropping to the floor with no effort. Replaced my brake booster and all is back to normal.
Would this cause the transmission to down shift to help you brake?
I'm not aware of these downshifting to provide "engine braking." My Charger police car clearly does and when I had the Caprice it was even mentioned in the owner's manual that it would try to anticipate it and downshift.
@@WJHandyDad it was my speed transmission sensor. It was 23 bucks and my truck shifts normal again with no dash lights anymore It literally took 5 to 10 minutes to change
glad it was cheap and easy to fix... that is so rare nowadays!
Will this cause the truck not to start ? Because I’m getting the same message and now truck doesn’t want to start
should be a completely different issue - mine never had issues starting
I have a no start issue as well. Did you have any luck getting yours started
No start caused by bad TCM?
Did you ever figure your issue out I’m have a no crank issue and it’s saying service brake system
@@tylerrobison3045 mine was the same and it was the TCM. I soldered a wire to one of the tcm pegs and grounded it to my frame rail. It’s a temporary solution to get the truck on the road while I wait for a TCM.
Sorry my men,I got the same crazy situación but I do not know if that is my problem,I got just abs on but I instal all brake lines and now I got code where said,wheel sensors missing,selenoid error,etc etc
wheel speed sensor problems will cause ABS issues. Go back and double check your work to make sure they are all on correctly
thank you sir
Will this cause your brake pedal to go all the way down also?
It's possible but in my case I had a bad brake booster. Once I replaced the booster the pedal firmed right up.
Mine is having the same issue, right after a brake job too where I got new calipers, in your case was the petal also firm until the vehicle ran and then it would become spongy?
Found out it was a bad brake line
my brake pedal got very spongy after I changed brake pads. I bled and bled and bled the brakes (including ABS bleeds) but nothing helped. Then I replaced the brake booster and boom, fixed imediately
I did this on mine but unfortunately the brake light went out but the ABS is still on
if you have access to a higher level scan tool like an Xtool D7 you can get the ABS code and see why it is lit up.
@@WJHandyDad thank you 🙏 but I don have this tool I go put a new one
Send a greeting to the engineer's mother. He's a sucker, he doesn't have a mother...😂😂😂 thanks
before being hired they should be required to do some routine maintenance on several vehicles
What size torx?
surely I mentioned in the video
@@WJHandyDad time stamp?
@@Junk_and_disorderly I don't know, I thought I did. They look like probably T20 or T25? Take your torx bits and test fit in the easiest one to access to make sure
T55 on the front brakes on my 03 suburban 1500 4wd
Now how do you fix the issue where i cant see the PRND?
I haven't run across that, but I would assume it's probably a bad solder point in the cluster somewhere. Check out Jeffescortix channel - he shows videos how to fix them but also fixes them too if it's beyond your DIY skills
Had the same issue plus the transmission went into limp mode. Turned out that i needed a new TCM. Not a cheap fix
If never fix would 1 day breaks would fail?
Unfortunately I cannot answer that question because I have no way to know. All I can say is Chevy recommends having the vehicle towed for repairs immediately rather than driving with it in that condition.
Well that was interesting…👍
All the rooms in the world GM just have to put in the hardness place to get to 🙈🙉🙊🐝🍯🤥🤔🔥💵💵💵💵💵
yep, very frustrating. And I recently replaced the brake booster and the mounting bolts on it were stupid as well
this is one of the worst locations ive seen. although at this point almost all spots are
it seems like they could have put it roughly where it is, but made it where you bolt from bottom upward rather than top down