Thanks! Great video, very profsfesional and easy to follow with your video. I just wish there was a video on how to put it all back together, that was the most challenging part of the whole project.
The best video I found for this job. My top got vandalized and the shop quoted me over 3 thousand to replace the new soft top and the headliner. I am thinking to find a used soft top in some junk yard and do it myself. I found your video. Thank you very much.
Great video! Used it to remove my top. Pump was fine, had a leaky hydraulic hinge. Replaced the hinge with a used one and moved the pump to the trunk to avoid corrosion problem. Everything worked for 16 months and then developed a leak in the other hinge. This time I was able to lift both hinges high enough out of the body to remove them without removing the entire top. I had both hinges rebuilt by Top Hydraulics and the top works great. Note: there is another video on TH-cam that shows how to move the pump to the trunk without removing the top... So you could replace the pump and hinges without removing the entire top.
I’m glad you found it useful. I’ve seen guys do repairs without removing the top. And even tried it myself. Some can do it successfully but in my experience it actually takes longer and tends to lead to damaging other components.
blacksnayk I'm having a problem where my roof unlatches, but only opens a tiny bit before it feels like it totally locks up. Even with the manual release pulled, I can only open the roof a tiny bit. Would this be a hinge problem? I plan on replacing hydraulic motor anyway, but it would be nice to get it working even manually for now. Thank you!
@@ZachandDukeGaming so the locks should release with the electric actuator and then the top should be able to be opened manually. There may be a way to open the locks manually but I've never tried it.
@@blacksnayk it does unlock and open a little. If just seems as though it doesn’t want to fold down. I think perhaps my hydraulic fluid just isn’t flowing around freely
Masterpiece. Prior to doing the roof removal for my first time, the go-to video, for me at least, was from Pray4UrLife12. At that time I made my own sloppy videos when I resuscitated my waterlogged hydraulic pump motor and eventually replaced and moved it to the trunk. Well, as anyone who's ever replaced the driving (master) unit of a hydraulic system often learns, when you fix the master the slave will soon die... it's simple math, not Murphy's Law. So now that I'm pulling the whole mess out again to send off the cartridges, I wanted to see if I should try to record the steps again. The answer is "no, Bald Man has already done it." Other than those nasty little aluminum clips holding the forward sides of the fabric frame to the car sheet metal, there's no room for improvement. This is the authoritative video: no wasted time or words, perfect lighting, camera angles, zoom, audio, and tooling. I'm guessing that the ONLY way to achieve these production values is on your 13th time doing the repair. :) This is how it's done. Some other notes: I promoted the idea of hydraulic motor replacement without (!) lifting the roof out, but I agree with Bald Man's reply to a commenter that it's not for everyone or every situation. Some youtubers even confirmed my method. (And one other even was insistant that you can reach the motor from the trunk; he apparently removed an additional interior trunk panel that I never thought to remove.) But I would say that people might try the no-roof-removal method but as soon as you struggle to unfasten the pump... take the damn roof off! By knowing the precise steps and the tricks about the top vs. bottom main bolts, and the clips, the battle is easily won.
@@nofluffDIY Thanks man, I appreciate your detailed input and I love that this video along with my pump relocation video has been helpful for others needing to tackle this job.🤙
This is the best video for removing the top. I used it to remove to top because my hinges were leaking. Sent them to top hydraulics for repair. However, after reinstalling everything now the top opens and closes as normal. However, when opening the red button keeps blinking. Possibly didn't install a sensor correctly. Not sure. you can see one of the sensors for the hinges at 2:20 in the video. The sensors are located on the pump side of the hinges in the driver side. At 2:20 you can see a square looking sensor with a small screw/cable coming out of it. I placed the sensor with the white dot on top and the other on the side. Hopefully, you know what I am talking about and can help? It opens and closes as normal. Just when opening it the red button keeps blinking.
I’m glad I was able to help. Don’t forget to watch my video on relocating the pump before you reinstall the top. th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.html
@@baldmankt just saw it, my pumps in good shape considering, and I don’t want to have to eat into my trunk space (same thought I had about NOS bottle 🤣) Either way it’s in the saved videos for when that failure does happen and pisses me of enough to have to move it.
I hope i never have to do this but im glad this exists. I have plastic on plastic squeak sound coming from the trunk cover area so i may have to get in there anyways
Excellent.. Clear speaking, Perfect video, Came off just as you described. Thank you for doing this video. Do you add a little silicone grease when reinstalling the rubber top seal?
Great video and I am going to remove the top in a week or so. On the passenger side how many wire connections are disconnected, I couldn't tell exactly in the video. Thanks and great work, best video I've seen describing this procedure.
What a good video, I have problems with my roof, I disconnected the hydraulic lines and now I don't know how to connect them, could you help me with that, thanks
Great video..my z4 2003 has original top..works great...however the screws holding the canvas top to its frame have completely corroded and no longer hold the canvas top.......do you have any suggestions. do I have to replace the top >>>
Great video, thank you. Question, in the process of removing the roof motor (left side of the car) through the trunk I damaged the hydraulic hose going to the right side cylinder of the roof. Do I need to remove the roof to replace that hydraulic hose ?
Very good instructions. I'm having an issue on returning the top to the body, specifically the electric wiring on the driver side. I'm not having enough slack, and cant really see where to route the cable collection back through so I can make the 3 reconnects work. For testing, I connected the large white and black connector but don't have enough for the controller (small 6 pin connector). I assume the connector is required to move the unit up and down, therefore I'm not hearing anything. Lastly, I have a hard top, but both those connectors are not in for my initial test. Are those required to operate the top?
That 6 pin connector is to the control unit so without that hooked up you will bet no movement. The hardtop switches could potentially cause the top not to operate if they’re not hooked up as well
At 5:36 the instructions say to release "these clips". I don't understand what to do here. It shows a thumb pressing on some kind of plastic bracket. At 5:30 it shows a screwdriver pushing into the start of the fabric with the instructions saying "release this clip by prying carefully with a screwdriver underneath the top". I can't see just what is being done here. Again I don't see any clip, just a black hole. I don't get it.
It may hard to see or understand in the video but looking through the trunk ahead of the black bar there is a metal “prong” type clip that is holding the aluminum top bow in place. From outside the car you are prying on the aluminum bow not the fabric
These two clips, one on each side of the car might be the trickiest part of the job (or second only to realizing you must open the roof perhaps half way to relieve most of its rigidity to wrestle it out). And no mystery its the 'most viewed' portion. At 5:34 when he says the word "these" you can see the clip before the finger moves over it. At 5:37 you can see it again after he says "release this"... for about a half second, both times to the right of the finger. It is aluminum colored and has two prongs, at slightly different angles. I watched the video mainly to see how this was captured and instructed. Great job... I hadn't even thought to try to access them from the passenger area (by lifting the roof a little). I'll try that this time, when I rebuild my hydraulic cartridges/cylinders. (Last time was to remove and move the hydraulic pump to trunk). Rubik "had nothin'" on those Beemer designers!
Super video. I followed all steps and all is good...except finishing the install the weather strip by the door. (The removal is at about 1:57 in your clip. I cant seem to get the last 2.5 inches from the top weatherstrip to stay in place to finally put the corner piece on. Just wondering if their is some suggestion to making this final piece fit uniform before adding the corner piece with some glue? Thanks so much. 1st video I actually did not get a migraine watching...and the audio is perfect. Thank you. V
This Z4 roof procedure is one of the greatest tests of DIY mechanic-ship I've ever encountered. So, my notes, with durations, from doing it for my third time, using Bald Man's great video: Total, 2 - 3 hours. I did about 20 minutes one day, then worked from 2-4 PM the next, and had the hinges off in another hour... But I didn't watch any instruction for that part. 1:00 Trims etc., 15 minutes. Notice he correctly says "5" Phillips head screws... the panels hiding the wiring harnesses will not pry outward until you remove not just the 3 screws at the bottom but the two at the top. 4:10 Weatherstrip etc., 15 minutes. At 4:20 he correctly says "move the top to the open position," but what exactly does this mean? Notice at 4:12-14 it shows the top halfway (!) up. That's what it means. In my experience, when the convertible top is half-way, there is no rigidity (no stress or force) on the aluminum channel that holds the weatherstrip and the back of the top to the car body. I found that the top will balance half-way open (even if your hydraulics have completely emptied of fluid as mine has), but it's safter to use some glass-reinforced tape from the windshield to the roof fabric, to keep it from accidentally falling backwards. 5:00 Shelf etc., 15 minutes. Pulling the metal bracket towards the center: maybe use a screwdriver to lever it inward, popping it out of the plastic snaps. 5:25 Aluminum Frame ("top bow"), 15 minutes: First, note that there are 7 of the 10mm bolts, and I found it's really important to use a power wrench for them. I used a small impact driver and socket. 5:35 Forward clips holding aluminum frame, should be 5 minutes: Note that these clips are there because there's no way they could have used bolts due to their inaccessible location. I think I've misunderstood the technique for releasing them all these years. I thought it was necessary to put a screwdriver or other wedge between the clip and the bottom of the aluminum frame, to wedge the frame out of the clip. So when the video shows releasing them from the front cockpit side, I can't understand how he's reaching them because my roof fabric and frame is in the way. IMPORTANT: But now I realize that when he says "release these clips... by prying carefully with a screwdriver under the top"... he just means lever the whole damn frame/fabric assembly up by levering against the body pillar. He's not trying to reach the bracket. Duh. I'll have to try to prove it next time... or one of you can. 5:45 Main bolts, 15 minutes. Why is it 15 minutes instead of 90 seconds??? Because having the top "open" now becomes a problem, not a solution. When the top is halfway open, there is tremendous force on the hinges, forcing them out of alignment with their access holes the minute you start to loosen them! IMPORTANT: I'm pretty sure you have to close the top (put it all the way up) to have the most certainty that the top hinge bolts will be centered, unstressed... and therefore can pull through their access holes. 6:08 Removing top, 30 minutes: I managed to do this alone but made one mistake that damaged the hard plastic at the top front of the top assembly. I should be able to glue it back to health. If you're desperate to do it without help here's how. Important: my pump was already moved to my trunk long ago, so I knew exactly when the whole assembly would be free of the car. The body perimeter was already taped. I put two blankets on the trunk and two 3-inch patio chair cushions on the trunk. I put a 2" x 12" x 2-foot piece of lumber on one side's rear fender, and a piece of plywood on the other side. You should tape the wood to the car. Then I pulled the aluminum frame out of the body and put it on top of the blankets. I think my mistake was that I should have dropped the roof down flat (fully 'opened') at this point, while the hinges were still in place. I lifted each side onto the wood. The front attachment points of the hard plastic broke, probably because the whole piece twisted. Oops. Then I closed the roof and flipped it backwards onto the top of the trunk. With it closed flat, and upside down, it was relatively easy to lift and carry, with one hand on the centerline, holding the window and fabric, and the other on one side of the aluminum frame and fabric. I could then remove my hinges to have them rebuilt.
Do you have a video that talks about replacing the hard plastic at the front of the convertible top itself? The plastic piece that the fabric attaches to is breaking, there are lost screws and when the top folds down into the trunk, it doesn't lock. I need instructions on replacing the plastic piece and making sure the top seats properly. Thanks!
One question: the hydraulic actuator is held in place by two torx bolts, one on top and one lower torx bolt. The torx bolt has a smooth larger diameter section followed by a narrower diameter threaded section. When reinstalling the top does the open loop at the lower part of the actuator sit on the threaded part of the bolt and then is held in place against the larger non-threaded shoulder when you tighten it? Thanks. great video.
Thanks for the video it is clear how to take the entire thing off, but how much of the roof do you have to lift to get access to the ram on the right hand side of the roof? My hydraulic line has burst on that side (opposite side to motor) and I think lifting the side of the roof out to access that part is probably the best bet. I don’t want to take the whole roof off if I can help it though.
Yeah I'm having a issue with mine, I'm getting a little puddle of fluid under the z on the passenger side not big but enough to notice and I can't seem to find where it's coming from, I just got the top out but waiting for anyone to show up at the compound to help lift it out was hoping you might have a clue to where it might be??
Ok cool thanks for that bro we stuck on the inside bolt cause it's all, how do you say, "wore out can't fit any size bit or Allen wrench to fit it to unscrew"but thank you so much!!!
Install is just as easy as following the steps in reverse. Watch my other video on re-locating the pump so you can keep your pump free from water damage and make it easier to bleed the system th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hYHqga7GPmZfmfm-
@@baldmanktperfect. Thank you. I’m at a point where I’m waiting for my son to help me lift it out. Your video made it super easy this far. Wish I did it this way before I damaged the hydraulic lines. Now I need to replace the lines and motor and still have to remove the top. Cutting corners are usually not the easiest and best way. Lesson learned.
Thanks for the great video. Make it look easy, in my experience, the rubber stuff disintegrates, the screws are rusted together, etc, etc, and I spend days on this, and putting it back looks like a nightmare too, get all that stuff back in place without damage looks a challenge. My question/problem is the manual release cable seems to be stuck, so I can't lower the top manually, and from this video, it looks like I need it to release to get it out? I'd like to just fix the manual operation, don't need a fancy electric version, heck my Midget doesn't even have windows at all. :)
Nicely done. Very well made, concise with great video and explanations. Been avoiding this project for a few weeks, but not now. What's your time estimate for this project?
Expect to spend a solid weekend on it. After doing this job dozens of times I’ve created a solid workflow with a helper and some jigs to hold the top once it’s out it’s a 4-6 hour job
Hello I need some advice ASAP I need to change the motor of the hood, I've taken all the boot apart and can see the motor but its way to hard to get out, Getting the tape off is impossible, it won't pull out etc. Is there any way I can get to the motor easier, ive tried reaching inside, but again its impossible. any tips of how to make it totally clear without taking the roof off?
@@baldmankt okay ill have to go for it. just worried about cables, my steering wheel is not he right im from the uk will it still work from your video? the pump is on the left hand side of the boot
Hello. I have to repare the top of my Z4 but I don't know exactly what's wrong. The hidraulics were liking till the top roof had no force to open, but now the motors are not working. I mean the front motor to lock the roof just works to close if I open manually and the motor for the hidraulics doesn't work anymore but I took it outside from the trunk and it looks like new. The question is: Is it possible that motors don't work when there is no hidràulic pressure? Thank you for your helpfull videos.
If you have power getting to the pump when switched and it’s not working the pump has failed. There’s a switch in the trunk for the divider tray that also needs to be pressed for the pump to work
@@baldmankt Thank you for your answer, but where is that switch. I'm lost because if the top is open it works to close it (both motors pump and lock) but when it's closed it doesn't open(doesn't work, anyone of both motors).🤯🤪
Ah, ok man. I know what you mean. You mean that the tray has to press the switch being in the low position to have enought place for the folded top. I'll check it but I think that's no the problem. Anyway thanks a lot!
My Z4 soft top can’t open the whole thing and comes back up since 2 weeks ago! Whenever I try pressing the button, it moves a li only which means the Mortar is working ? I used my soft top almost every day since summer started which may cause the issue? I went to the mechanic shop and the guy told me it may cost around $5000. I was shocked !
@@noeforutenforme there are two motors. A gear driven motor that unlatches the top from the windshield pillar and the hydraulic motor that drives the top up and down. It sounds like only the first motor is working
@@jaguarguy67 sawhorses would be fine for changing the hydraulics but for the fabric you would need full access and will be doing a lot of pulling and stretching so you would need it mounted solid.
Do you have experience with softtop alignment? How to ensure the top does not hit the chassis when it folds down? It seems many z4s suffer from this and it causes damage over time. Hope you have some advice!
I don’t personally do any fabric work on them. However the most common issue I see with soft tops and wear problems is the elastic tension straps that are sewn into the underside of the fabric between the headliner and top fabric. These tension straps keep each of the bows in the top frame folding properly.
@@chuck7432 I hope so :-) this is my second Z4 E85 and previous did not have any friction wear on the softtop fabric. My current Z4 does have the friction wear and I am not the only one it seems. In the BMW manuals I do find adjustment settings but no explanation unfortunately. I will investigate the elastic straps first to see if that explains the friction based wear. I keep you posted on findings. Thanks!
There are 2 main connectors for the pump wires . One is the black connector behind the driver’s seat at about 2:35 in. The other connection is directly on the pump. It’s not shown in this video but you can find it in my follow up video WHY YOUR Z4 TOP IS NOT WORKING AND HOW TO FIX IT!!! th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2003 BMW Z4 convertible I would like to have your number so I can call talk to you about why the convertible top bolt on latch that will not come down put a new electric pumping but did not put the pump reservoir in and of being told it's some kind of a sensor or something or the ECU is mixed signals
But yet everything else in the car is working do not understand why it will come back a little bit but I can't even do it manually is the reservoir the problem
Great video. Is there a way to check and add fluid without taking the top completely off? My top unlatches, motor runs but will not go up or down. I can manually operate the top up and down. Could it be low an fluid?
It definitely sounds like you’re low on fluid. I would suggest you remove the top, find the leak and relocate the pump following this video. th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_YsYGLIo8FvQXyxf
Thanks! Great video, very profsfesional and easy to follow with your video. I just wish there was a video on how to put it all back together, that was the most challenging part of the whole project.
The best video I found for this job. My top got vandalized and the shop quoted me over 3 thousand to replace the new soft top and the headliner. I am thinking to find a used soft top in some junk yard and do it myself. I found your video. Thank you very much.
Beautifully done - good step by step instruction. Clear and concise. Brilliant. Well Done ! Thanks for positing.
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind words!
excellent video, the camera work and explanation make it very easy to follow,easily the best on youtube, well done!
Great video! Used it to remove my top. Pump was fine, had a leaky hydraulic hinge. Replaced the hinge with a used one and moved the pump to the trunk to avoid corrosion problem. Everything worked for 16 months and then developed a leak in the other hinge. This time I was able to lift both hinges high enough out of the body to remove them without removing the entire top. I had both hinges rebuilt by Top Hydraulics and the top works great. Note: there is another video on TH-cam that shows how to move the pump to the trunk without removing the top... So you could replace the pump and hinges without removing the entire top.
I’m glad you found it useful. I’ve seen guys do repairs without removing the top. And even tried it myself. Some can do it successfully but in my experience it actually takes longer and tends to lead to damaging other components.
blacksnayk I'm having a problem where my roof unlatches, but only opens a tiny bit before it feels like it totally locks up. Even with the manual release pulled, I can only open the roof a tiny bit. Would this be a hinge problem? I plan on replacing hydraulic motor anyway, but it would be nice to get it working even manually for now. Thank you!
@@ZachandDukeGaming so the locks should release with the electric actuator and then the top should be able to be opened manually. There may be a way to open the locks manually but I've never tried it.
@@blacksnayk it does unlock and open a little. If just seems as though it doesn’t want to fold down. I think perhaps my hydraulic fluid just isn’t flowing around freely
@@ZachandDukeGaming Did you figure it out?
Excellent video. Thinking it may be easier ro remove the top to repair the hydraulic pump motor than trying to remove it through the trunk. Thanks!
Masterpiece.
Prior to doing the roof removal for my first time, the go-to video, for me at least, was from Pray4UrLife12. At that time I made my own sloppy videos when I resuscitated my waterlogged hydraulic pump motor and eventually replaced and moved it to the trunk. Well, as anyone who's ever replaced the driving (master) unit of a hydraulic system often learns, when you fix the master the slave will soon die... it's simple math, not Murphy's Law. So now that I'm pulling the whole mess out again to send off the cartridges, I wanted to see if I should try to record the steps again. The answer is "no, Bald Man has already done it." Other than those nasty little aluminum clips holding the forward sides of the fabric frame to the car sheet metal, there's no room for improvement. This is the authoritative video: no wasted time or words, perfect lighting, camera angles, zoom, audio, and tooling. I'm guessing that the ONLY way to achieve these production values is on your 13th time doing the repair. :) This is how it's done.
Some other notes:
I promoted the idea of hydraulic motor replacement without (!) lifting the roof out, but I agree with Bald Man's reply to a commenter that it's not for everyone or every situation. Some youtubers even confirmed my method. (And one other even was insistant that you can reach the motor from the trunk; he apparently removed an additional interior trunk panel that I never thought to remove.) But I would say that people might try the no-roof-removal method but as soon as you struggle to unfasten the pump... take the damn roof off! By knowing the precise steps and the tricks about the top vs. bottom main bolts, and the clips, the battle is easily won.
@@nofluffDIY Thanks man, I appreciate your detailed input and I love that this video along with my pump relocation video has been helpful for others needing to tackle this job.🤙
Keep up the good work one of best Clips so far 👍
Thank you
Dang.. Nicely done. I need to remove the top on mine to fix some things and this made it so much less daunting.
This is the best video for removing the top. I used it to remove to top because my hinges were leaking. Sent them to top hydraulics for repair. However, after reinstalling everything now the top opens and closes as normal. However, when opening the red button keeps blinking. Possibly didn't install a sensor correctly. Not sure. you can see one of the sensors for the hinges at 2:20 in the video. The sensors are located on the pump side of the hinges in the driver side. At 2:20 you can see a square looking sensor with a small screw/cable coming out of it. I placed the sensor with the white dot on top and the other on the side. Hopefully, you know what I am talking about and can help? It opens and closes as normal. Just when opening it the red button keeps blinking.
Thanks for this. A very good, straightforward go-to. Very helpful.
@@David-co5sf Thank you. Glad I could help
Very helpful! Looks easy from the video, hoping that's also the case when I do it myself.😄
Started 2 nights ago, getting mine off tonight, helps to have a few extra hands
Fellow BMW Z4 owner here, thank you for the video, this helped a lot :)
I’m glad I was able to help. Don’t forget to watch my video on relocating the pump before you reinstall the top. th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.html
@@baldmankt just saw it, my pumps in good shape considering, and I don’t want to have to eat into my trunk space (same thought I had about NOS bottle 🤣)
Either way it’s in the saved videos for when that failure does happen and pisses me of enough to have to move it.
I hope i never have to do this but im glad this exists. I have plastic on plastic squeak sound coming from the trunk cover area so i may have to get in there anyways
This video was absolutely excellent. Many, many thanks!!
Thanks you, glad I could help!
3:30 Soon I will install the anchor option for a hard roof. Does anyone know why it has so much cable? I thought it was just a physical anchor.
Thanks for good video! Does anybody know what is part number of weatherstrip (removed at 4:35)? Mine is tired and would like to get new one.
Excellent.. Clear speaking, Perfect video, Came off just as you described. Thank you for doing this video. Do you add a little silicone grease when reinstalling the rubber top seal?
Thank you. No, there’s no need to apply any lubricants or sealants when re installing the seal
Great video and I am going to remove the top in a week or so. On the passenger side how many wire connections are disconnected, I couldn't tell exactly in the video. Thanks and great work, best video I've seen describing this procedure.
If it has hardtop sensors there will be two connectors if not only one.
@@baldmankt Ok, thanks for the quick reply. Have a great day and keep up the awesome videos.
What a good video, I have problems with my roof, I disconnected the hydraulic lines and now I don't know how to connect them, could you help me with that, thanks
Great video..my z4 2003 has original top..works great...however the screws holding the canvas top to its frame have completely corroded and no longer hold the canvas top.......do you have any suggestions. do I have to replace the top >>>
This video is extremely helpful I certainly appreciated my friend thank you very much
Question, when assembling the the convertible top back on. Do you put weatherstrip adhesive glue on it to the body?
Also I cannot get the strip to sit nice and flush on many parts for the body
There’s no need to glue it back on, if it’s not sitting flush it is either bent or not seated all the way on
@@baldmanktthank you! 👌🏼
Great video, thank you. Question, in the process of removing the roof motor (left side of the car) through the trunk I damaged the hydraulic hose going to the right side cylinder of the roof. Do I need to remove the roof to replace that hydraulic hose ?
Yes, the roof will need to come out to gain access to the line at the bottom of the cylinder
As I feared. Do you know if I can do this by lifting just one half of the roof ?@@baldmankt
Hi there excellent video question what is the year of the Z4?
Very good instructions. I'm having an issue on returning the top to the body, specifically the electric wiring on the driver side. I'm not having enough slack, and cant really see where to route the cable collection back through so I can make the 3 reconnects work. For testing, I connected the large white and black connector but don't have enough for the controller (small 6 pin connector). I assume the connector is required to move the unit up and down, therefore I'm not hearing anything. Lastly, I have a hard top, but both those connectors are not in for my initial test. Are those required to operate the top?
That 6 pin connector is to the control unit so without that hooked up you will bet no movement. The hardtop switches could potentially cause the top not to operate if they’re not hooked up as well
At 5:36 the instructions say to release "these clips". I don't understand what to do here. It shows a thumb pressing on some kind of plastic bracket. At 5:30 it shows a screwdriver pushing into the start of the fabric with the instructions saying "release this clip by prying carefully with a screwdriver underneath the top". I can't see just what is being done here. Again I don't see any clip, just a black hole. I don't get it.
It may hard to see or understand in the video but looking through the trunk ahead of the black bar there is a metal “prong” type clip that is holding the aluminum top bow in place. From outside the car you are prying on the aluminum bow not the fabric
These two clips, one on each side of the car might be the trickiest part of the job (or second only to realizing you must open the roof perhaps half way to relieve most of its rigidity to wrestle it out). And no mystery its the 'most viewed' portion. At 5:34 when he says the word "these" you can see the clip before the finger moves over it. At 5:37 you can see it again after he says "release this"... for about a half second, both times to the right of the finger. It is aluminum colored and has two prongs, at slightly different angles. I watched the video mainly to see how this was captured and instructed. Great job... I hadn't even thought to try to access them from the passenger area (by lifting the roof a little). I'll try that this time, when I rebuild my hydraulic cartridges/cylinders. (Last time was to remove and move the hydraulic pump to trunk). Rubik "had nothin'" on those Beemer designers!
Is it possible to change the left hoses without removing the entire roof?
@@Ничегосерьезного-ф6ц The top needs to be removed.
Super video. I followed all steps and all is good...except finishing the install the weather strip by the door. (The removal is at about 1:57 in your clip. I cant seem to get the last 2.5 inches from the top weatherstrip to stay in place to finally put the corner piece on. Just wondering if their is some suggestion to making this final piece fit uniform before adding the corner piece with some glue? Thanks so much. 1st video I actually did not get a migraine watching...and the audio is perfect. Thank you. V
It can be a bit of a pain, there is a “fold” of rubber on the underside of the weather strip that has to be nested perfectly
Great video, easy to follow, well done. Do you have a video detailing removal of the hydraulic hinges?
About to give this a go 👍🏻 Thanks 🙏🏻 subbed. 😊
This Z4 roof procedure is one of the greatest tests of DIY mechanic-ship I've ever encountered. So, my notes, with durations, from doing it for my third time, using Bald Man's great video:
Total, 2 - 3 hours. I did about 20 minutes one day, then worked from 2-4 PM the next, and had the hinges off in another hour... But I didn't watch any instruction for that part.
1:00 Trims etc., 15 minutes. Notice he correctly says "5" Phillips head screws... the panels hiding the wiring harnesses will not pry outward until you remove not just the 3 screws at the bottom but the two at the top.
4:10 Weatherstrip etc., 15 minutes. At 4:20 he correctly says "move the top to the open position," but what exactly does this mean? Notice at 4:12-14 it shows the top halfway (!) up. That's what it means. In my experience, when the convertible top is half-way, there is no rigidity (no stress or force) on the aluminum channel that holds the weatherstrip and the back of the top to the car body. I found that the top will balance half-way open (even if your hydraulics have completely emptied of fluid as mine has), but it's safter to use some glass-reinforced tape from the windshield to the roof fabric, to keep it from accidentally falling backwards.
5:00 Shelf etc., 15 minutes. Pulling the metal bracket towards the center: maybe use a screwdriver to lever it inward, popping it out of the plastic snaps.
5:25 Aluminum Frame ("top bow"), 15 minutes: First, note that there are 7 of the 10mm bolts, and I found it's really important to use a power wrench for them. I used a small impact driver and socket.
5:35 Forward clips holding aluminum frame, should be 5 minutes: Note that these clips are there because there's no way they could have used bolts due to their inaccessible location. I think I've misunderstood the technique for releasing them all these years. I thought it was necessary to put a screwdriver or other wedge between the clip and the bottom of the aluminum frame, to wedge the frame out of the clip. So when the video shows releasing them from the front cockpit side, I can't understand how he's reaching them because my roof fabric and frame is in the way. IMPORTANT: But now I realize that when he says "release these clips... by prying carefully with a screwdriver under the top"... he just means lever the whole damn frame/fabric assembly up by levering against the body pillar. He's not trying to reach the bracket. Duh. I'll have to try to prove it next time... or one of you can.
5:45 Main bolts, 15 minutes. Why is it 15 minutes instead of 90 seconds??? Because having the top "open" now becomes a problem, not a solution. When the top is halfway open, there is tremendous force on the hinges, forcing them out of alignment with their access holes the minute you start to loosen them! IMPORTANT: I'm pretty sure you have to close the top (put it all the way up) to have the most certainty that the top hinge bolts will be centered, unstressed... and therefore can pull through their access holes.
6:08 Removing top, 30 minutes: I managed to do this alone but made one mistake that damaged the hard plastic at the top front of the top assembly. I should be able to glue it back to health. If you're desperate to do it without help here's how. Important: my pump was already moved to my trunk long ago, so I knew exactly when the whole assembly would be free of the car. The body perimeter was already taped. I put two blankets on the trunk and two 3-inch patio chair cushions on the trunk. I put a 2" x 12" x 2-foot piece of lumber on one side's rear fender, and a piece of plywood on the other side. You should tape the wood to the car. Then I pulled the aluminum frame out of the body and put it on top of the blankets. I think my mistake was that I should have dropped the roof down flat (fully 'opened') at this point, while the hinges were still in place. I lifted each side onto the wood. The front attachment points of the hard plastic broke, probably because the whole piece twisted. Oops. Then I closed the roof and flipped it backwards onto the top of the trunk. With it closed flat, and upside down, it was relatively easy to lift and carry, with one hand on the centerline, holding the window and fabric, and the other on one side of the aluminum frame and fabric. I could then remove my hinges to have them rebuilt.
Do you have a video on how to re-install it?
I didn’t do a install video but just follow the steps in reverse and you’ll do just fine .
Very nicely done and helpful, thank you for sharing.
Do you have a video that talks about replacing the hard plastic at the front of the convertible top itself? The plastic piece that the fabric attaches to is breaking, there are lost screws and when the top folds down into the trunk, it doesn't lock. I need instructions on replacing the plastic piece and making sure the top seats properly. Thanks!
Unfortunately I do not have a guide for that
@@baldmankt Thanks for the reply!
One question: the hydraulic actuator is held in place by two torx bolts, one on top and one lower torx bolt. The torx bolt has a smooth larger diameter section followed by a narrower diameter threaded section. When reinstalling the top does the open loop at the lower part of the actuator sit on the threaded part of the bolt and then is held in place against the larger non-threaded shoulder when you tighten it? Thanks. great video.
Yes, you do not need to remove that bolt only loosen when removing the top and use it as a guide when reinstalling the top.
Thanks for the video it is clear how to take the entire thing off, but how much of the roof do you have to lift to get access to the ram on the right hand side of the roof? My hydraulic line has burst on that side (opposite side to motor) and I think lifting the side of the roof out to access that part is probably the best bet. I don’t want to take the whole roof off if I can help it though.
You need to remove the whole top to do either ram and bleed the system
Very informative very well done very impressive
Excellent instructions. Thanks so much!
Good video, though I wish you had mentioned you’re lifting the bow to undo that last clip. Thanks!
You make this job look easy 😊
Yeah I'm having a issue with mine, I'm getting a little puddle of fluid under the z on the passenger side not big but enough to notice and I can't seem to find where it's coming from, I just got the top out but waiting for anyone to show up at the compound to help lift it out was hoping you might have a clue to where it might be??
Most likely the hydraulic lift cylinder is leaking
Ok cool thanks for that bro we stuck on the inside bolt cause it's all, how do you say, "wore out can't fit any size bit or Allen wrench to fit it to unscrew"but thank you so much!!!
Is it as easy to assemble in reverse or are there any tricks? I’m about to tackle this now, replace motor and lines on the top
Install is just as easy as following the steps in reverse. Watch my other video on re-locating the pump so you can keep your pump free from water damage and make it easier to bleed the system th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hYHqga7GPmZfmfm-
@@baldmanktperfect. Thank you. I’m at a point where I’m waiting for my son to help me lift it out. Your video made it super easy this far. Wish I did it this way before I damaged the hydraulic lines. Now I need to replace the lines and motor and still have to remove the top. Cutting corners are usually not the easiest and best way. Lesson learned.
This was awesome and very well done.. Thank you for sharing...
Thank you, I’m glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the great video. Make it look easy, in my experience, the rubber stuff disintegrates, the screws are rusted together, etc, etc, and I spend days on this, and putting it back looks like a nightmare too, get all that stuff back in place without damage looks a challenge. My question/problem is the manual release cable seems to be stuck, so I can't lower the top manually, and from this video, it looks like I need it to release to get it out? I'd like to just fix the manual operation, don't need a fancy electric version, heck my Midget doesn't even have windows at all. :)
The motor just stays in and connects to the replacement correct?
@@loganhollingsworth7978 the motor comes out with the top, you can see it dangling from the bottom driver’s side at 6:30
Nicely done. Very well made, concise with great video and explanations. Been avoiding this project for a few weeks, but not now. What's your time estimate for this project?
Expect to spend a solid weekend on it. After doing this job dozens of times I’ve created a solid workflow with a helper and some jigs to hold the top once it’s out it’s a 4-6 hour job
Hello I need some advice ASAP I need to change the motor of the hood, I've taken all the boot apart and can see the motor but its way to hard to get out, Getting the tape off is impossible, it won't pull out etc. Is there any way I can get to the motor easier, ive tried reaching inside, but again its impossible. any tips of how to make it totally clear without taking the roof off?
Taking the complete top out is the only way I repair them.
@@baldmankt okay ill have to go for it. just worried about cables, my steering wheel is not he right im from the uk will it still work from your video? the pump is on the left hand side of the boot
Hey man
Is it the same procedure for hard top to?
The hardtop is a completely different procedure
Hello. I have to repare the top of my Z4 but I don't know exactly what's wrong. The hidraulics were liking till the top roof had no force to open, but now the motors are not working. I mean the front motor to lock the roof just works to close if I open manually and the motor for the hidraulics doesn't work anymore but I took it outside from the trunk and it looks like new. The question is: Is it possible that motors don't work when there is no hidràulic pressure? Thank you for your helpfull videos.
If you have power getting to the pump when switched and it’s not working the pump has failed. There’s a switch in the trunk for the divider tray that also needs to be pressed for the pump to work
@@baldmankt Thank you for your answer, but where is that switch. I'm lost because if the top is open it works to close it (both motors pump and lock) but when it's closed it doesn't open(doesn't work, anyone of both motors).🤯🤪
Ah, ok man. I know what you mean. You mean that the tray has to press the switch being in the low position to have enought place for the folded top. I'll check it but I think that's no the problem. Anyway thanks a lot!
My Z4 soft top can’t open the whole thing and comes back up since 2 weeks ago! Whenever I try pressing the button, it moves a li only which means the Mortar is working ? I used my soft top almost every day since summer started which may cause the issue? I went to the mechanic shop and the guy told me it may cost around $5000. I was shocked !
@@noeforutenforme there are two motors. A gear driven motor that unlatches the top from the windshield pillar and the hydraulic motor that drives the top up and down. It sounds like only the first motor is working
Question can you change the top while it's out of the car?
It’s definitely possible. You would have to make a bracket or structure to bolt the top to at the mounting points.
@@baldmankt I was thinking of putting it on some saw horses, and trying it that way.. Opinion?
@@jaguarguy67 sawhorses would be fine for changing the hydraulics but for the fabric you would need full access and will be doing a lot of pulling and stretching so you would need it mounted solid.
awesome video man.
Do you have experience with softtop alignment? How to ensure the top does not hit the chassis when it folds down? It seems many z4s suffer from this and it causes damage over time. Hope you have some advice!
I don’t personally do any fabric work on them. However the most common issue I see with soft tops and wear problems is the elastic tension straps that are sewn into the underside of the fabric between the headliner and top fabric. These tension straps keep each of the bows in the top frame folding properly.
@@baldmankt thank you very much! I will have a closer look this weekend to see if I can locate the elastic straps and if they are pulling enough.
@@chuck7432 I hope so :-) this is my second Z4 E85 and previous did not have any friction wear on the softtop fabric. My current Z4 does have the friction wear and I am not the only one it seems. In the BMW manuals I do find adjustment settings but no explanation unfortunately. I will investigate the elastic straps first to see if that explains the friction based wear. I keep you posted on findings. Thanks!
Mine was partially worked on. The power line that plugs into the pump was disconnected, i can not find where to plug the line into.
There are 2 main connectors for the pump wires . One is the black connector behind the driver’s seat at about 2:35 in. The other connection is directly on the pump. It’s not shown in this video but you can find it in my follow up video WHY YOUR Z4 TOP IS NOT WORKING AND HOW TO FIX IT!!!
th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.html
great video thanks
very helpful !
Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad I was able to help. Don’t forget to watch my other Z4 top video on relocating the hydraulic pump.
Can I relocate the motor into the trunk?
You sure can. I detail that procedure in this video th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful
I have a 2003 BMW Z4 convertible I would like to have your number so I can call talk to you about why the convertible top bolt on latch that will not come down put a new electric pumping but did not put the pump reservoir in and of being told it's some kind of a sensor or something or the ECU is mixed signals
But yet everything else in the car is working do not understand why it will come back a little bit but I can't even do it manually is the reservoir the problem
Perfect
Awesome
Thank You!
I wish you would have made this video 2 years earlier!!!
Holy heck! Too many steps! Time to sell the car! :)
🤣 After you do a few dozen they’re pretty easy 👍
Great video. Is there a way to check and add fluid without taking the top completely off? My top unlatches, motor runs but will not go up or down. I can manually operate the top up and down. Could it be low an fluid?
It definitely sounds like you’re low on fluid. I would suggest you remove the top, find the leak and relocate the pump following this video. th-cam.com/video/6YvPj2mMmNA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_YsYGLIo8FvQXyxf