EZ tip to remove U-ring from the forward clips. 11:10. Put top up. From outside just forward of rear wheel, Reach around inside top approximately where clip is, grap frame and gently but firmly jerk upward. Do both sides. Pops right out. Thank for video!
The "white box" is the bluetooth module. If you ever need to get the code to set up hands-free calling via Bluetooth to a new phone, you will need the code on that white box. Is on a sticker attached to that box.
This is a great video. You have the talents of an excellent teacher. Everything was explained well and shown very clearly in the video. I have had the top off twice for new motor and then for replacement of a leaky hydraulic cylinder. Both times I had this video on my laptop right next to the car. Probably saved over $1000 in labor. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thank you for the detailed video, this just helped with replacing the rear wing as there is a bolt where the roof frame needs to be dropped to get access
cont: they knew the pump was on it's way out and tried to wing it past a Buyer. They also paid for a spare key through a BMW dealership ($235.00 and detailed the car very nicely..I am the second owner...it was garaged kept..all service records..top and body in exceptional cond. 50% tread left on run flat tires. thanks again for posting the vid.
this video worked for me. weather stripping was a bitch to reinstall.... thought about the relocation to trunk but didnt feel like cutting stuff... silicone sealed the housing. thank you for this upload saved me a $1000!
You are welcome. I tried the relocation but got lazy. I ended up moving the motor to behind the driver headrest! It limits how far back you can move the driver seat but I am only 5'6" so it worked for me.
Thanks for your post, very clear explanation, much easier to follow than the BMW forums. Now if I can only figure out how to get in the trunk since I'm 6'4, 300 lbs ! BTW Its' my wife's car!
FYI, you don’t have to line up the holes. A banjo fitting is designed where the hole lines up in a certain channel in the banjo fitting. Like a groove. Good video though.
Great video but you are incorrect about the banjo fittings, the hole does not have to line up with anything. The roundness of the banjo fitting is sort of like a tubular tunnel. Good luck everyone.
You are spot on... That's the way this type of fitting is designed. Brake calipers have the same type of fitting. No worries, about lining up the hole.
I am getting ready to do mine, and your video was a big help. I still am wishing they had a better system than those tight clips at the fronts of the U-rail. I don't see a good way to get to those.
I'm over listening to your video and the Facebook notification went off my girl almost left me thinking someone was massaging me right now 1:53 am haha thanks great video by the way
Thanks..you, my man are a font of good info.appreciated..Yeah, manual trannys are hard to come by..didnt realize yours was a 3.0 Noice! watch some vids last night of peeps ripping out hydro pumps from bilge water in the trunks of Z's not a pretty sight.!was getting frustrated trying to find a Z w/ gears..started looking at Boxsters, tgen learned about the notorious IMS/CMS leaks and went back to Zs.
Great video, and I follow your procedure upto 0:52, and the soft-top is stopped at the exact position as yours. Hope to get the details how could you make it all the way to the bottom, don't want to try the brute force method now.
pull the red ring on the cable in the and lock it so it stays pulled. This allows you to manually raise and lower the top. It's fairly heavy but it can be done.
I forgot to mention the latches to the top of the windshield need to be undone before you can move the top manually. I've never tried it but if these electrically operated latches don't work , they can be operated after removing a plastic trim cover near the front-center of the top and then using an allen wrench to retract both latches simultaneously. The electrics sequence the latches before the hydraulics before retracting and the hydraulics operate before the latches when closing the roof.
@@tamiebasse6595 I tried to use brute force and I could fully open the top now, no matter the red ring pull out or not, and luckily it doesn't break anything and I can go ahead my investigations, thanks a lot.
I’ve had many problems with my Z4’s convertible top motor. BMW, in all of their design/engineering brilliance, located the convertible top hydraulic motor in a location that allows for water to pool and submerges the motor in water from rain or washing your car. Eventually, this motor is going to fail. It is not designed to be submerged. I relocated my top’s motor to the trunk of the car, thereby keeping the new motor dry. I also placed a spongy rubber mat under the motor to support the motor and protect it from vibration. Make sure you check the motor for hydraulic fluid. If it doesn’t have enough fluid, the performance of the top will suffer. This goes for the hydraulic lines. They must be in good condition. I have replaced all but the front locks of the convertible top. Guess those will go bad next! BMW is fully aware of these problems and have consistently refused to do any sort of recall, shop fix, or even give you a discount on the parts needed to fix their poor design. If you pay the dealership to do the work, have deep pockets lined with cash. It will cost you. This work can be done yourself. It is not that hard, but is time consuming. Having a friend to help you remove the convertible top will help, but others have been able to remove the top’s motor without completely removing the top. On US cars, the motor is behind the driver’s left shoulder, in between the driver’s compartment and the trunk compartment. Take your time and good luck!
BMW could build a replacement motor that is intrinsically safe and it would not hurt to immerse in water. The top runs for total of less than 15 seconds for operation going up and down. The motor will not get hot enough to harm it in 15 seconds!
Out top was working perfectly, then after arriving home we pressed up and top went up 1/3 of the way then stopped. Further inspection, appears pump and cylinder are fine as we are able to feed power directly to motor and make top go and and down with no biding issues etc. So we tested holofex sensors and they seem to work well. Took top module apart and there are no smells or burnt circuits. Trunk tray sensor bi passed and switch tested all works well. We can press the down top button and it goes down, then windows roll up as always, but when we press up it goes up smooth then stops 1/3rd of the way up and blinks red on switch. Press down and town goes down again, then up and it goes up again. LOL lubed all joints, car running while testing, etc. Again we are able to complete the top up with direct 12v power to motor and back down. We also direct 12v to lock motor and it does work fine, locks and unlocks. ANY IDEAS? HELP, I am about to trade this car in next weekend and this happened.... HELP. Thank you in advance. We did check all wiring in top going to sensors for pinching damage etc but all looks good even inisde headliner.
DSM Dallas wow that sounds like a nightmare. You have done everything that I am aware of. I was lucky and it ended up being my soft top motor so I never looked into anything else like you have. I did however have the same problem as you with the top not passing up past 1/3. Maybe the release pin needs to be tightened or loosened. What I am talking about is the red lever that you pull to manually close your top. It is found on the left side of your top accessed from the trunk. There is a white plastic knob found on its line that can be used to adjust tightness of the red handle. Perhaps the line itself is being impinge on during closing causing the motor to disengage during closing? Is the fluid level okay in the chamber of the motor? Maybe you have an air bubble trapped because of slow leakage over time. You should see some fluid on top of the motor.
Hey thanks! good suggestion..I will keep an eye on it..they also gave me 2 gratis oil changes..so when I take it in I will also have them check the housing while I observe.:-)
Awesome video and step-by-step instructions. I will be attempting this very soon and relocating my motor to the trunk. I would love to see pictures of how you mounted yours inside the trunk if you have any. Did you re-use the same container that the motor was stored in from the factory or fabricate something else?
Thanks Jeff. I ended up cutting two slits in the side wall just adjacent to the plastic trunk roof latch mechanism. I had to remove the trunk roof and the left mounting shell for the trunk roof (that covers the shock/strut position as well). I bent the small flap down and simply placed the motor in the trunk with the wires coming through it. Placed many layers of electrical trape on the cut plastic edges to protect the lines from rubbing against them. The motor was left nude on the top half but rests in the lower half of the housing unit. It was a tight fit with the top on and this way I can check and fill the fluid level if needed. I chose not to tuck it beneath the trunk carpet. I can make a short vid if I lost you on this explanation.
@@Pray4UrLife12 Thanks. You explained it well and I can see what you mean. My motor seems to be working (at least I can hear it run when I push the button) but the top doesn't move but can be operated manually even with the red lever that disengages the motor pushed in. Could it just be out of fluid or does that mean there is a leak in the hydraulic system somewhere? Either way I have pretty much decided to remove the top just so I know for sure what's going on.
@@jeffk9658 could be low fluid or you just need to prime fluid throughout the system again. If mine sits too long it takes a good 40 seconds of holding before I get fluid pressure top open my top. I used a heavier fluid than oem though so I recommend you use the orange/gold color hydraulic fluid, if not oem, to top it off. If it's a louder noise than usual, it's probably low on fluid. Later on, I had a fluid leak out of my right hydraulic hinge and decided to send both of mine to get rebuilt. No issues since.
@@Pray4UrLife12 Wow, very good info. I really just bought the car a little over a week ago so I don't know what has been done in the past or how the motor sounded before, although it doesn't seem very loud. I tried holding the button down and the motor runs for about 15 seconds then stops and the red light flashes the entire time until I put the top either completely up and push the close button which locks the top to the windshield or all the way down and put the down button to complete the process that way. I also could hear a fain "gurgling" sounds coming from the area of the motor leading me to believe that it may be leaking fluid.
I am a bit curious. I do not hear the motor pump running when I activate the up or down switches. I hear a quiet hum, very quiet, almost can't hear it. The windshield latch mechanism was fine before I manually forced the top down, all 3 fuses on my fuse panel are fine, but it is as if the motor is not getting voltage. If the motor was shot, wouldn't it blow the 40A fuse? Could the hum that I hear be a motor that is no longer pumping fluid and is just spinning?
Haha, This is a very troublesome question for someone who is red/green colorblind. There is a light that comes on solid, but I don't know if it is red, orange or green. When the other half, the color assistant gets home, we will check. With the roof where it is right now, there is no light unless I push the up or down button. I know that I had a light that would not go out until I managed to completely open the top and seat it in the all the way open position. Also, when it was trying to work on its own, before I manually put it down, it released the windows down, the windshield catch released, then after a few seconds of nothing more happening, the light blinked, but what color it blinked I could not tell you. I am 66 now and have been very tired of this color blind thing for about 60 years--#paininthebutt! You are incredibly helpful. I can't say Thank you enough!
thanks for the upload way more useful thank prodemand. im having an issue though i swapped the motors and tried testing motor work but its not pumping fluid is there a bleed procedure. im testing everything before i reinstall and im not pumping fluid through. ive even loosened the banjo bolt and its not pushing fluid through im kinda lost at the moment any advice would be appreciated
Late comment but for those reading this: if you are testing the motor in the car after installing and the motor is not working (no power to it) and you see an orange light at the top lift button it is because your trunk roof is not installed to engage the safety sensor which is found on the back wall of your trunk. Either cram a paper towel into the sensor to engage it or install the trunk roof.
Pray4UrLife12- Mate, you need to urgently update this video. At 18.00min you are telling people to line up the bolt holes with the outgoing lines. This is INCORRECT!! Massively! The bolt hole is irrelevant. The hydraulic banjo goes completely around the bolt and its hole. If you try to line up the "hole to the line" as you've stated, you wont be affecting the fluid flow at all but you could very well not be doing up the bolt enough to stop any leaks. Remember.....this is high pressure hydraulic fluid. ALL connections MUST be tight to stop leaks. You never have to line any holes up with any lines. When you understand the design of the banjo joint, you'll see what I mean. You really need to find the torque spec (ft/lb etc) for the bolt and, ideally, use a torque wrench. I hope this helps people out and stops them having to waste another 4 hours ripping everything apart due to leaking all the fluid out :)
Boostinpulsar I stated this because I noticed, when tightened properly, the holes lined up for me. It was actually impossible for me to tighten further. Is this a general knowledge banjo bolt statement or do you know this to be true for this specific scenario? I'm more than willing to update once I ger home if you can help me confirm your information. Thanks for picking it out! I hope people have the common sense to realize if it is too loose. Good find, boost!
No worries brother! Yeah, this is a general banjo joint statement. Its how they're designed. They are a full-encapsulating design. I used these types of larger banjo's on water lines to and from my watercooled turbocharger core. It allows the joint to be filled with the fluid, despite where the hole in the bolt is. Under pressure, it will go in the hole within the bolt. So, it doesnt matter where the hole is. It will still flow the same amount of fluid under the same pressure available from the pump despite where the hole is. If you just type-up in yellow writing "Update: Do these two bolts up to manufacturers specifications, regardless of the bolt hole lining up with the line or not", it will help people out from having leaks. I'd also recommend that you say to test the lines prior to reinstallation, to make sure theyre are no leaks, by powering up the pump with the lines connected. :)
I was shaking my head too at 18:00... Banjo bolts should be torqued to spec with new crush washers, no matter where the holes are! Please update this to avoid leaks for other people attempting this.
Your car sure does look a lot like mine… Did you change the woodgrain to aluminum trim? I still can’t find the build sheet to mine but it is red with a black top 2003 3.0 it was either that or a Miata or a Porsche Boxster, I still kind of long for a Porsche but this car is solid and great the only downside is expense of tires
That's probably, I just threw it in and may be the hydraulic line they are not correctly to be straight w/the hole in there. Thank you Pray4u, I have to redo it again.
No James, do not do it over again yet. Just go to your trunk. Look at the black plastic trunk roof you pulled out. Make sure when you put it in, that it hits the metal switch in the middle of the back wall. The silver switch inside should be depressed for your roof to work.
This is fantastic! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together!! I know I'm going to use it in the future. Quick question: There's no need to bleed the lines to remove any air that might get into the system when replacing the motors and swapping hydraulic lines? Seems like performance could be affected if air is introduced... ?
patryk996 I did not replace the lines, only the motor. There is air in the motor fluid housing which I imagine would be the end point of any air that may have been trapped in the method that I used. If so, add some oil to the motor compartment afterwards.
Great vid, I'm currently doing mine and about to start re assembly of the pump/motor. Did you need to add hydraulic fluid to the reservoir before or after connecting the lines or do you add it via somewhere else? Thanks
Americans are experts at how to make a job really difficult. Can take the motor out through the rear corner with parcel shelf tray out. Roof doesn’t need to come out. Doesn’t need new motors either. They all can be fixed.
Assistance closing in what way? Could you be more specific? Have you checked your fluid level? Any leaks in the lines or hinges? Never used a repair kit so I don't have much I could comment on that, sorry. Maybe someone else can chime in?
Pray4UrLife12 so when I open the top I hold the button it works fine. When closing it starts to hum like it’s trying to close and I have to use one finger and apply maybe 5lbs of lift and the top starts closing and I can let go about half way and it does the rest in its own. Idk how to check the fluid. I bought a repair kit from ecs and a liter of the hydraulic fluid. To check the fluid do I need to remove the top? I’m very handy on working with cars I have to e60 v10s just never had a car with a hydraulic top. Also I have ISTA D I’m guessing I can prime the pump from there and see if it’s better
The issue you are describing was similar to what I experienced with my car (unrelated to this video and happened this past year). I took the top off because I wanted to inspect the hydraulic hinges. It turned out I had to send my right hinge off to get rebuilt because it was leaking fluid and not holding pressure well. This was causing the roof to need a helping hand up. I could also see that the left side was coming up more normal than the other before it reached the point that it needed a helping hand. I decided to send both hinges off to be rebuilt for about $400 US. I would first check your fluid level. While you could sneak the motor out without removing the top by reaching in and pulling it out, I would just take it off to inspect it all and then relocate the motor to the trunk when reinstalling for easier access in the future. The fluid container is on the motor itself and a fill line is marked on it. Google a picture of one. I hope that helped. Good luck!
Just started follow you ! 2 questions what happens if you connect the two wires in the bottom of the motor wrong? I did not mount everything back before I tested, but did not work I could hear the electric motor spool but no movement.. same thing when I had the whole convertible out and I tried with a car battery, no movement of the pistons just heard the electric motor spool. Please help me out
Hi Zed fam, if you reversed the plugs I believe it would close the top when hitting the open button and vice versa, unsure if it would get interrupted by the initial or final locking mechanisms. It sounds like the pump is still priming the system with fluid. If you filled the reservoir to the fill line it may take 20-30 seconds (or longer) of holding the button before anything happens. Make sure the motor is not sideways to the point that it introduces air bubbles into the lines. Be sure to recheck the fluid level and top off again after it opens and closes. Give this a try and get back with me. Good luck!
@@Pray4UrLife12Thank you ! the pump had some hydraulic oil in it when I got it (brand new). Do I need to fill additional oil ? I think it's facing down correctly. But I am thinking about switching the hyd lines or the cables. I connected everything the Same way as on the old pump and I thought the worst thing that could happen is that it goes in the wrong direction ?
@@Pray4UrLife12 also if you hook up a battery to it when you have the cab out should the whole thing move then or do you just hear the electric motor spool ? If everything is connected correctly..
@@bestinshape5368 The entire top closes and opens if set up correctly and all is well. What made you replace the motor in the first place? What were the symptoms? Are you sure your side hinges are okay? No leaks from there correct? Ever resolve your issue? Sorry for the delay.
Hey thanks for the 'How To' you should get 'hazardous duty' pay and some Purple Hearts for the wounds incurred 👍 I was going to attempt it on my 2005 Zed pump failed a week after I bought it used last month.. I called the dealership ( not BMW dealership) where I bought it and they graciously agreed to replace it, even though it was not warrantied ..The I got to looking at pics of the car they had posted on their website and they did not have one pic of the car with the top down...even though all 17 of the other convertibles ALL had 4 pics in a panel w/ top down. I'm thinking they knew and were just hoping someone would say 'oh well'They fixed it in one day..Paid in a spare key $235 from the local BMW dealership , and detailed the car real nice for me as a goodwill gesture.So I was spared some sliced fingers...:-) That was nice of you to post the vid...you seem like a calm dude and made it look easy..thanks again,
Glad they took care of you! Not many dealerships out there will do that. Just peek your head in to see that the motor housing was properly sealed or else you will have the same issue some short months down the road. Thanks for the compliments. Enjoy the Z life!
Forgot to ask...anything special I should specifically be looking for physically on the pump to see if it starting to fail?btw..sold my 2004 325i with 80,000 before I bought the Z..excellent shape..clutch was getting tired.same color combo as your Z.
The pump failing is usually caused by water leaking into the housing. You can hear the pump work super loud and sound like a cringing machine more than a smooth motor. What I did was add extra fluid to mine and relocate it to behind the drivers seat for now. I am short so I can get away with this. I suggest using a lifetime waterproof silicone. Only use a little bit because if you make it too thick it won't squeeze back into its spot. On the motor itself, usually towards the bottom and on the "motherboard" you will see rust and corrosion start to form if the housing is compromised.
Great video. Just wondering... I got the roof off and it turned out the release valve was stuck on the pump and the motor etc was fine and the roof opened and closed perfectly when running the motor direct from a battery. Now I’ve put it back on the car the roof won’t work again (even when disconnecting all the cables and running direct from battery). It feels like there is pressure building on the pump so I’m wondering if one of the hydraulic lines has pinched and that’s the issue (they look fine all that I can see)? Does anyone have any ideas?
One possibility is that your red release lever cable is engaged. You can check to see that is it not "out" or too tight. There is a white plastic knob that can be screwed to adjust the tension of that cable. Just follow that cable back from the red lever and you will see what I am talking about. Keep us posted and GL!
Sorry for late reply - only got round to looking at the car again today. I’d not actually put the release mechanism back on the pump yet as I was worried it would stick again, so I don’t think it’s that (appreciate the suggestion though). I’m planning to take the roof off again tomorrow and will update when I get to the bottom of it. I’m sure I’ve pinched one of the hydraulic lines.
Got the roof off again and it wasn’t a pinched hydraulic line. The pump is basically not pumping (even though it worked fine in testing before refitting the roof). Currently taking the pump apart to see if there’s an obvious issue but might need to replace it. I’ll be selling the damn car after all of this!!
@@dorianrees sorry you are having so many issues. It's been one repair after the other for me as well. Been contemplating selling it but at least I know what has been serviced on the car!
So after taking the roof off for a second time, there was an issue with the pump where one of the little pins had fallen out. Put it all back and, again, the roof worked fine out of the car. Now it’s all back in the car it still won’t work. The engage/disengage mechanism works but although the motor runs when you press the button, the roof doesn’t move. I’m totally lost! Have asked for tips on a Z4 owners’ group on Facebook. Will update further when I (hopefully) find a solution. Thanks.
Hi. thanks for your educational video, I wonder if you can help me, my cab doesn't lock when I open it, so the red light keeps flashin all the time, what's wrong? thnks in advance! Greeting Iradj
Sorry for the late reply, perhaps you can reply how you fixed the issue so others can learn too. Are you saying that your roof is closing but does not lock tight once it is pressing against your windshield frame front lock hatches (by your rear view mirror)? If so, it sounds like the issue is the latch lock motor that I believe is found within your framework above your rear view mirror.
Yes it is, however, I did not do it that way. From what I understand, you have to remove the roof's upper shelf and try to reach in there from the trunk. Undoing the motor housing from the mounting clip might be tricky and put you in an awkward position. To be honest once you've taken the roof off once it is super easy to do again and worth it to me. Remember to inspect your hinges.
Hello , Pray4u , I had the same issue about hydro pump motor then I just purchase a new one . After I replaced its and test its before reinstalling the rooftop back on its just work fine . Then after I put it back in , I heard the motor running, but the roof doesn't move at all. So do you have any idea or did I do something wrong? Thank you, have a good labor day weekend.
if you have the motor already, it can be done in about 4 hours. The annoying part is waiting to buy the motor until you test the current motor after removing the roof. Then having to garage the car until you get your motor.
Istvan Bartha is the light that is by the roof button in your cabin red or orange when you hit it? if it is orange then your trunk roof is just out of place and the safety sensor is stopping you. a motor may be bad if it opens the roof only partially, makes loud grinding noises, or something nothing happens at all. diagnosing is the hardest part.
@@jimmy-np6jy that is possible. I remember seeing a thread on some forum that used the motor off of another vehicle which was the same type as ours but I do not know wherr I saw it. Try to search it online. Most peoples issue is water damage so I do not know if it is worth the risk if it ends up not solving the problem. I do not know how to rule out if that is a good idea or not.
I am not sure what you mean. If you are asking about the oil for the motor, I believe there is a fill line that you can see in the chamber. I filled it up to there. Open and close the roof a couple times then recheck the level again.
you can take the shell off but the trouble comes when you have to bolt and unbolt the hydraulic lines. It is a much faster and easier job if you just take the roof off. I tried without and could not.
I tried replacing mine and hydraulic fluid is spitting out from where the hydraulic lines meet the pump. The top wont move. Any ideas on why that would happen
Did you make sure to tighten down the bolts all the way and place the lines in the correct spot on the motor? I don't remember if there are o rings but you should see them in the video if so. Make sure they are in place if so.
@Pray4UrLife12 I read online that they should only be tightened to 12 nm. I did tighten them more but it didn't work. Neither the original nor the new pump had a large o-ring. Maybe that's what I'm missing. That or the banjo bolts are so rusted through they just don't work anymore. Rather not take it to bmw cause they'll charge me 6k, both my kidneys and my first born child to fix it lol
How much was the hydraulic motor? and did you get it from the dealership? I'm looking into doing the same but i've seen these motors go for $200 on ebay
Hi Pray4u, this is James again, I just found out one of the hydraulic lift cylinder on passenger side its leaking, do you know how to fix it or any suggestions? Thanks, have a great weekend.
Ricky Guillermo will do. I have to do an oil change soon but I already did the transmission fluid and rear brakes 10k miles ago. Front brakes are next on the list.
Pray4UrLife12 super awesome. I'm a follower now and for sure there's a lot out there like me who needs some videos from an expert like you. You're video tutorials are awesome.
Ricky Guillermo i have never done it myself but I know once you removed the roof they are on the front end of the soft top (i think). One youtuber asked me the same thing and ended up doing it himself.
I checked my car switches and fuses and motor pretty much everything and still not working what can it be? Seems like the lower button doesn't send signal to the motor
If your light is blinking orange when you try to open the roof, it could be that the trunk roof cover is not engaging the metal switch sensor. That sensor is on the back wall of the trunk. Check that first. If not, maybe you can remove and test the roof button switches with a multi-meter?
@@Pray4UrLife12 it blinks, I already checked the micro switch, fuses and replaced the motor. It seems like when I hit the button to lower the hood doesn't send the signal of that button to the motor. I switched the cables of the button to see if it worked and when I did that the close button worked lowering the hood but not which means one line button is not working . I believe there is something wrong with the green cable which is the lower button but I'm not sure. I been looking for help this past years. I wanna DIY my self
I am unaware of such a way but maybe the forums mention it? I have read before of people soaking the motor in a solution and it worked afterwords. I believe it was vinegar or such? Again the forums know better!
Parts are available .... everything,,complete units and or just replacing what's bad in your situation...electric side(motor) hydraulic side (Hyd pump).. a lot of people are using a ford mustang convertible unit made by the same guys HB Hoebinger..makes everybody's "units".. Thanks for your video!!! I learned a lot!!!!!!!!
Hi guys, I need an answer ASAP please, I replaced the motor and doing testing now but during test sometimes working and sometimes no!!! And leaking hydraulic oil from both side jacks!! What's that meaning? And what should I do now? Thanks
Nadeen Alkaabi Hey, sorry to hear you are having issues. Check your hydraulic fluid level. You may be leaking from your lines due to a past pinch in the line? not exactly sure what you are asking. put up a video or photo? also, check if your silver bolts that you used the attach your fluid lines to your pump are lined up correctly. ensure motor is on the upright position when testing it. if you are low on fluid do not test until you top it off. did you test your old motor as well?
Pray4UrLife12 Thanks for fast answer! Yes was same issue but old one was tired voice not same new motor voice. I full it hydraulic oil because it's keep leaking from both adages (the ones on both side comes inside the car) could you call me please at 312-863-1491 just to explain it clearly please. Thanks. Hassan
I have removed my top on z4 when I got it back on it latches in the up position fine when down theres a huge gap from top to trunk what did I do wrong would appreciate some advice
@@bob4003 if you look along the cable line that the red tab is attached to, you will find a white plastic portion that you can rotate to adjust the tightness of the cable. It may be that your cable system needs tightening.
I am wondering if you can comment that being so time consuming and difficult to get to it, one may make a hole from the bottom of the car and insert a fish camera with light to check corrosion. or cut part of the bottom to remove and replace. If that is possible and why BMW does not provide drainage to start with. Replies will be appreciated.
I have never heard of such an approach. There are drain hole plugs at the bottom of the chamber that allow rain drainage. I guess you could remove that and feed a line through but that isn't very straight forward. The motor itself is in a case that would not be easily opened with that approach. It is best to just relocate it to the trunk. You can also just look at it from up top if all you want to do is check if you are holding water or if you have a compromised motor.
Damn it’s really tough when people make videos and say “this is the hydraulic line fluid you need“ then flashing in front of the camera as fast as I can with maybe only one single frame and focus… At least hold it there long enough for people to see without having to rewind and all that man… Especially hard Porten that is to the operation
Dude you never disconnect the positive battery, always the negative!! Reason you're still grounded and if you hit metal with that positive cable, you can short the whole system.. THEN YOU'RE SCREWED 🤦
If you remove the shelf unit in the boot, you can reach to the front corner of the wheel arch ( left hand side) and feel the top of the motor housing, the motor sits in a plastic container and the lid is taped on with gaffa tape. Most of it is by feel but once you partially peel the tape off, you use a large screwdriver to lever the lid off, don't worry if you damage the lid, you have to persevere but once the lid is off you can wiggle the motor out(still attached to hydraulic pipes and electrics) and bring it over into the boot, it took me 40 mins. Go online and find some fotos of the motor and housing, you'll get a better picture to see what you're up against.
Why can't this motor be sealed so water cannot enter it? It runs less than 15 seconds to open or close the top! The motor will not get hot enough to harm it in 15! If it was intrinsically safe water could not enter the motor and ruin it!
EZ tip to remove U-ring from the forward clips. 11:10. Put top up. From outside just forward of rear wheel, Reach around inside top approximately where clip is, grap frame and gently but firmly jerk upward. Do both sides. Pops right out. Thank for video!
I had to figure this out by watching a video by the Car Ninja. Seems so simple now.
a wonder bar from inside the trunk about 7" from the end worked too
Thank you for taking the time to do this for all of us. God bless you for your kind soul....
The "white box" is the bluetooth module. If you ever need to get the code to set up hands-free calling via Bluetooth to a new phone, you will need the code on that white box. Is on a sticker attached to that box.
Fantastic video. I don't think I would be comfortable attacking such a complex repair without this clear and very detailed video. Great job!
Thank you and you are absolutely welcome! I am sure BMW hates me now haha.
This is a great video. You have the talents of an excellent teacher. Everything was explained well and shown very clearly in the video. I have had the top off twice for new motor and then for replacement of a leaky hydraulic cylinder. Both times I had this video on my laptop right next to the car. Probably saved over $1000 in labor. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You're very welcome. Glad I could help!
Best video on top removal I have seen. Many important details that others do not include. Many thanks!
Thanks so much! Just took mine off and you’re video was fantastic reference.
Thank you for the detailed video, this just helped with replacing the rear wing as there is a bolt where the roof frame needs to be dropped to get access
Your procedure worked perfectly, well done and thank you. The sore fingers and minor abrasions were well worth it.
Russ Cowton you're welcome! gratz on the fix
@@Pray4UrLife12 I done my top but have a
cont: they knew the pump was on it's way out and tried to wing it past a Buyer. They also paid for a spare key through a BMW dealership ($235.00 and detailed the car very nicely..I am the second owner...it was garaged kept..all service records..top and body in exceptional cond. 50% tread left on run flat tires. thanks again for posting the vid.
this video worked for me. weather stripping was a bitch to reinstall.... thought about the relocation to trunk but didnt feel like cutting stuff... silicone sealed the housing. thank you for this upload saved me a $1000!
You are welcome. I tried the relocation but got lazy. I ended up moving the motor to behind the driver headrest! It limits how far back you can move the driver seat but I am only 5'6" so it worked for me.
Any tricks on the weather stripping
Thanks for your post, very clear explanation, much easier to follow than the BMW forums. Now if I can only figure out how to get in the trunk since I'm 6'4, 300 lbs ! BTW Its' my wife's car!
Haha. You may be able to have a kid do it for you! If not, try to lay on your back like I did. Just be careful about your rear bumper.
Use a mirror
FYI, you don’t have to line up the holes. A banjo fitting is designed where the hole lines up in a certain channel in the banjo fitting. Like a groove. Good video though.
massive thanks for taking time to make video.
Thank you, bought the motor now about to do the install
If you remove the bolts around the aluminum ring in the trunk first the rubber weatherstripping is much easier to remove.
Great video but you are incorrect about the banjo fittings, the hole does not have to line up with anything. The roundness of the banjo fitting is sort of like a tubular tunnel. Good luck everyone.
You are spot on...
That's the way this type of fitting is designed.
Brake calipers have the same type of fitting.
No worries, about lining up the hole.
A great amount of detailed information. Thanks
Buddyyyy did I buy your car?! Thanks for the videos and maintaining, cheeyuz `-;
Haha I hope not seeing as I still have it! Welcome to the Zed life!
very detailed and Informative. good job. thanks for the video
You're welcome
You're a hero! :) Thanks, and beautiful car
I am getting ready to do mine, and your video was a big help. I still am wishing they had a better system than those tight clips at the fronts of the U-rail. I don't see a good way to get to those.
Agreed. I used a trim pry bar that was metal with a handle.
Great video - do you have one or can you recommend a video on re-installing the top?
Sorry I do not. It is the same process but in reverse. Get a second set of hands to help put it in place and the rest is easy.
I'm over listening to your video and the Facebook notification went off my girl almost left me thinking someone was massaging me right now 1:53 am haha thanks great video by the way
Haha sorry mate!
Thanks..you, my man are a font of good info.appreciated..Yeah, manual trannys are hard to come by..didnt realize yours was a 3.0 Noice! watch some vids last night of peeps ripping out hydro pumps from bilge water in the trunks of Z's not a pretty sight.!was getting frustrated trying to find a Z w/ gears..started looking at Boxsters, tgen learned about the notorious IMS/CMS leaks and went back to Zs.
to reinstall the U in the end brackets, open the top & use a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it into place
Great video, and I follow your procedure upto 0:52, and the soft-top is stopped at the exact position as yours. Hope to get the details how could you make it all the way to the bottom, don't want to try the brute force method now.
pull the red ring on the cable in the and lock it so it stays pulled. This allows you to manually raise and lower the top. It's fairly heavy but it can be done.
@@tamiebasse6595 Thanks for your reply. I didn't try too hard and worry about breaking something for so doing, will try again.
I forgot to mention the latches to the top of the windshield need to be undone before you can move the top manually. I've never tried it but if these electrically operated latches don't work , they can be operated after removing a plastic trim cover near the front-center of the top and then using an allen wrench to retract both latches simultaneously. The electrics sequence the latches before the hydraulics before retracting and the hydraulics operate before the latches when closing the roof.
@@tamiebasse6595 Yes, the latches on top of the windshield are working in my z4, thanks again.
@@tamiebasse6595 I tried to use brute force and I could fully open the top now, no matter the red ring pull out or not, and luckily it doesn't break anything and I can go ahead my investigations, thanks a lot.
This was great! Thanks a lot for the video!
thank you brother you just save my life
I’ve had many problems with my Z4’s convertible top motor.
BMW, in all of their design/engineering brilliance, located the convertible top hydraulic motor in a location that allows for water to pool and submerges the motor in water from rain or washing your car. Eventually, this motor is going to fail. It is not designed to be submerged.
I relocated my top’s motor to the trunk of the car, thereby keeping the new motor dry. I also placed a spongy rubber mat under the motor to support the motor and protect it from vibration.
Make sure you check the motor for hydraulic fluid. If it doesn’t have enough fluid, the performance of the top will suffer. This goes for the hydraulic lines. They must be in good condition.
I have replaced all but the front locks of the convertible top. Guess those will go bad next!
BMW is fully aware of these problems and have consistently refused to do any sort of recall, shop fix, or even give you a discount on the parts needed to fix their poor design. If you pay the dealership to do the work, have deep pockets lined with cash. It will cost you.
This work can be done yourself. It is not that hard, but is time consuming. Having a friend to help you remove the convertible top will help, but others have been able to remove the top’s motor without completely removing the top. On US cars, the motor is behind the driver’s left shoulder, in between the driver’s compartment and the trunk compartment.
Take your time and good luck!
BMW could build a replacement motor that is intrinsically safe and it would not hurt to immerse in water. The top runs for total of less than 15 seconds for operation going up and down. The motor will not get hot enough to harm it in 15 seconds!
Great Video!!! Thanks for making it, very appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
Out top was working perfectly, then after arriving home we pressed up and top went up 1/3 of the way then stopped. Further inspection, appears pump and cylinder are fine as we are able to feed power directly to motor and make top go and and down with no biding issues etc. So we tested holofex sensors and they seem to work well. Took top module apart and there are no smells or burnt circuits. Trunk tray sensor bi passed and switch tested all works well. We can press the down top button and it goes down, then windows roll up as always, but when we press up it goes up smooth then stops 1/3rd of the way up and blinks red on switch. Press down and town goes down again, then up and it goes up again. LOL lubed all joints, car running while testing, etc. Again we are able to complete the top up with direct 12v power to motor and back down. We also direct 12v to lock motor and it does work fine, locks and unlocks. ANY IDEAS? HELP, I am about to trade this car in next weekend and this happened.... HELP. Thank you in advance. We did check all wiring in top going to sensors for pinching damage etc but all looks good even inisde headliner.
DSM Dallas wow that sounds like a nightmare. You have done everything that I am aware of. I was lucky and it ended up being my soft top motor so I never looked into anything else like you have. I did however have the same problem as you with the top not passing up past 1/3. Maybe the release pin needs to be tightened or loosened. What I am talking about is the red lever that you pull to manually close your top. It is found on the left side of your top accessed from the trunk. There is a white plastic knob found on its line that can be used to adjust tightness of the red handle. Perhaps the line itself is being impinge on during closing causing the motor to disengage during closing? Is the fluid level okay in the chamber of the motor? Maybe you have an air bubble trapped because of slow leakage over time. You should see some fluid on top of the motor.
Hello when replacing the hood and all its accessories, do you have to program it so that it works? Thanks in advance for the reply
Great video . Helped out a lot
Thanks, very informative..now to repair mine..
Hey thanks! good suggestion..I will keep an eye on it..they also gave me 2 gratis oil changes..so when I take it in I will also have them check the housing while I observe.:-)
Fantastic video. Thank you!!
Awesome video and step-by-step instructions. I will be attempting this very soon and relocating my motor to the trunk. I would love to see pictures of how you mounted yours inside the trunk if you have any. Did you re-use the same container that the motor was stored in from the factory or fabricate something else?
Thanks Jeff. I ended up cutting two slits in the side wall just adjacent to the plastic trunk roof latch mechanism. I had to remove the trunk roof and the left mounting shell for the trunk roof (that covers the shock/strut position as well). I bent the small flap down and simply placed the motor in the trunk with the wires coming through it. Placed many layers of electrical trape on the cut plastic edges to protect the lines from rubbing against them. The motor was left nude on the top half but rests in the lower half of the housing unit. It was a tight fit with the top on and this way I can check and fill the fluid level if needed. I chose not to tuck it beneath the trunk carpet. I can make a short vid if I lost you on this explanation.
@@Pray4UrLife12 Thanks. You explained it well and I can see what you mean. My motor seems to be working (at least I can hear it run when I push the button) but the top doesn't move but can be operated manually even with the red lever that disengages the motor pushed in. Could it just be out of fluid or does that mean there is a leak in the hydraulic system somewhere? Either way I have pretty much decided to remove the top just so I know for sure what's going on.
@@jeffk9658 could be low fluid or you just need to prime fluid throughout the system again. If mine sits too long it takes a good 40 seconds of holding before I get fluid pressure top open my top. I used a heavier fluid than oem though so I recommend you use the orange/gold color hydraulic fluid, if not oem, to top it off. If it's a louder noise than usual, it's probably low on fluid. Later on, I had a fluid leak out of my right hydraulic hinge and decided to send both of mine to get rebuilt. No issues since.
@@Pray4UrLife12 Wow, very good info. I really just bought the car a little over a week ago so I don't know what has been done in the past or how the motor sounded before, although it doesn't seem very loud. I tried holding the button down and the motor runs for about 15 seconds then stops and the red light flashes the entire time until I put the top either completely up and push the close button which locks the top to the windshield or all the way down and put the down button to complete the process that way. I also could hear a fain "gurgling" sounds coming from the area of the motor leading me to believe that it may be leaking fluid.
@@jeffk9658 welcome to the club. Yes, def worth the look.
Thank you 👍👍
Thank you! Very well done. Guess I now have some work to do.
Jeff Tucker best of luck!
I am a bit curious. I do not hear the motor pump running when I activate the up or down switches. I hear a quiet hum, very quiet, almost can't hear it. The windshield latch mechanism was fine before I manually forced the top down, all 3 fuses on my fuse panel are fine, but it is as if the motor is not getting voltage. If the motor was shot, wouldn't it blow the 40A fuse? Could the hum that I hear be a motor that is no longer pumping fluid and is just spinning?
Jeff Tucker is an orange light coming up by the roof button? if so your trunk roof is not in proper position.
Haha, This is a very troublesome question for someone who is red/green colorblind. There is a light that comes on solid, but I don't know if it is red, orange or green. When the other half, the color assistant gets home, we will check. With the roof where it is right now, there is no light unless I push the up or down button. I know that I had a light that would not go out until I managed to completely open the top and seat it in the all the way open position. Also, when it was trying to work on its own, before I manually put it down, it released the windows down, the windshield catch released, then after a few seconds of nothing more happening, the light blinked, but what color it blinked I could not tell you. I am 66 now and have been very tired of this color blind thing for about 60 years--#paininthebutt! You are incredibly helpful. I can't say Thank you enough!
thanks for the upload way more useful thank prodemand. im having an issue though i swapped the motors and tried testing motor work but its not pumping fluid is there a bleed procedure. im testing everything before i reinstall and im not pumping fluid through. ive even loosened the banjo bolt and its not pushing fluid through im kinda lost at the moment any advice would be appreciated
Late comment but for those reading this: if you are testing the motor in the car after installing and the motor is not working (no power to it) and you see an orange light at the top lift button it is because your trunk roof is not installed to engage the safety sensor which is found on the back wall of your trunk. Either cram a paper towel into the sensor to engage it or install the trunk roof.
Pray4UrLife12- Mate, you need to urgently update this video. At 18.00min you are telling people to line up the bolt holes with the outgoing lines. This is INCORRECT!! Massively!
The bolt hole is irrelevant. The hydraulic banjo goes completely around the bolt and its hole. If you try to line up the "hole to the line" as you've stated, you wont be affecting the fluid flow at all but you could very well not be doing up the bolt enough to stop any leaks. Remember.....this is high pressure hydraulic fluid. ALL connections MUST be tight to stop leaks. You never have to line any holes up with any lines. When you understand the design of the banjo joint, you'll see what I mean. You really need to find the torque spec (ft/lb etc) for the bolt and, ideally, use a torque wrench.
I hope this helps people out and stops them having to waste another 4 hours ripping everything apart due to leaking all the fluid out :)
Boostinpulsar I stated this because I noticed, when tightened properly, the holes lined up for me. It was actually impossible for me to tighten further. Is this a general knowledge banjo bolt statement or do you know this to be true for this specific scenario? I'm more than willing to update once I ger home if you can help me confirm your information. Thanks for picking it out! I hope people have the common sense to realize if it is too loose. Good find, boost!
No worries brother! Yeah, this is a general banjo joint statement. Its how they're designed. They are a full-encapsulating design. I used these types of larger banjo's on water lines to and from my watercooled turbocharger core. It allows the joint to be filled with the fluid, despite where the hole in the bolt is. Under pressure, it will go in the hole within the bolt. So, it doesnt matter where the hole is. It will still flow the same amount of fluid under the same pressure available from the pump despite where the hole is.
If you just type-up in yellow writing "Update: Do these two bolts up to manufacturers specifications, regardless of the bolt hole lining up with the line or not", it will help people out from having leaks. I'd also recommend that you say to test the lines prior to reinstallation, to make sure theyre are no leaks, by powering up the pump with the lines connected. :)
I was shaking my head too at 18:00... Banjo bolts should be torqued to spec with new crush washers, no matter where the holes are! Please update this to avoid leaks for other people attempting this.
I'll second all said. Banjo bolts don't need to "line up" they need torqued with new crush washers.
It is also important to note that the hydraulic lines are numberd. they MUST go back per numbers on the pump.
11-13, 12-14 in their respective holes.
Your car sure does look a lot like mine… Did you change the woodgrain to aluminum trim? I still can’t find the build sheet to mine but it is red with a black top 2003 3.0 it was either that or a Miata or a Porsche Boxster, I still kind of long for a Porsche but this car is solid and great the only downside is expense of tires
I had a NB Miata prior and I would never go back. Yeah, I didn't care for the expense of the Porsche. I just changed my 2 tires last week for $560...
That's probably, I just threw it in and may be the hydraulic line they are not correctly to be straight w/the hole in there. Thank you Pray4u, I have to redo it again.
No James, do not do it over again yet. Just go to your trunk. Look at the black plastic trunk roof you pulled out. Make sure when you put it in, that it hits the metal switch in the middle of the back wall. The silver switch inside should be depressed for your roof to work.
Pray4UrLife12
I see, thank you so much...
This is fantastic! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together!! I know I'm going to use it in the future. Quick question: There's no need to bleed the lines to remove any air that might get into the system when replacing the motors and swapping hydraulic lines? Seems like performance could be affected if air is introduced... ?
patryk996 I did not replace the lines, only the motor. There is air in the motor fluid housing which I imagine would be the end point of any air that may have been trapped in the method that I used. If so, add some oil to the motor compartment afterwards.
Great vid, I'm currently doing mine and about to start re assembly of the pump/motor. Did you need to add hydraulic fluid to the reservoir before or after connecting the lines or do you add it via somewhere else? Thanks
I just added it the the chamber on the motor after reassembly, work the pump, re-top off chamber as needed.
Americans are experts at how to make a job really difficult. Can take the motor out through the rear corner with parcel shelf tray out. Roof doesn’t need to come out. Doesn’t need new motors either. They all can be fixed.
So my z4m too stil works just needs some assistance closing. ECS tuning sold me a repair kit any thoughts on it ?
Assistance closing in what way? Could you be more specific? Have you checked your fluid level? Any leaks in the lines or hinges? Never used a repair kit so I don't have much I could comment on that, sorry. Maybe someone else can chime in?
Pray4UrLife12 so when I open the top I hold the button it works fine. When closing it starts to hum like it’s trying to close and I have to use one finger and apply maybe 5lbs of lift and the top starts closing and I can let go about half way and it does the rest in its own. Idk how to check the fluid. I bought a repair kit from ecs and a liter of the hydraulic fluid. To check the fluid do I need to remove the top? I’m very handy on working with cars I have to e60 v10s just never had a car with a hydraulic top. Also I have ISTA D I’m guessing I can prime the pump from there and see if it’s better
The issue you are describing was similar to what I experienced with my car (unrelated to this video and happened this past year). I took the top off because I wanted to inspect the hydraulic hinges. It turned out I had to send my right hinge off to get rebuilt because it was leaking fluid and not holding pressure well. This was causing the roof to need a helping hand up. I could also see that the left side was coming up more normal than the other before it reached the point that it needed a helping hand. I decided to send both hinges off to be rebuilt for about $400 US. I would first check your fluid level. While you could sneak the motor out without removing the top by reaching in and pulling it out, I would just take it off to inspect it all and then relocate the motor to the trunk when reinstalling for easier access in the future. The fluid container is on the motor itself and a fill line is marked on it. Google a picture of one. I hope that helped. Good luck!
What's that big wire on the right side for that was behind the passenger panel? Mine is unplugged but everything seems to work fine going up and down
give me a time reference of the video to refer to please.
Just started follow you ! 2 questions what happens if you connect the two wires in the bottom of the motor wrong? I did not mount everything back before I tested, but did not work I could hear the electric motor spool but no movement.. same thing when I had the whole convertible out and I tried with a car battery, no movement of the pistons just heard the electric motor spool. Please help me out
Hi Zed fam, if you reversed the plugs I believe it would close the top when hitting the open button and vice versa, unsure if it would get interrupted by the initial or final locking mechanisms. It sounds like the pump is still priming the system with fluid. If you filled the reservoir to the fill line it may take 20-30 seconds (or longer) of holding the button before anything happens. Make sure the motor is not sideways to the point that it introduces air bubbles into the lines. Be sure to recheck the fluid level and top off again after it opens and closes. Give this a try and get back with me. Good luck!
@@Pray4UrLife12Thank you ! the pump had some hydraulic oil in it when I got it (brand new). Do I need to fill additional oil ? I think it's facing down correctly. But I am thinking about switching the hyd lines or the cables. I connected everything the Same way as on the old pump and I thought the worst thing that could happen is that it goes in the wrong direction ?
@@Pray4UrLife12 also if you hook up a battery to it when you have the cab out should the whole thing move then or do you just hear the electric motor spool ? If everything is connected correctly..
@@bestinshape5368 The entire top closes and opens if set up correctly and all is well. What made you replace the motor in the first place? What were the symptoms? Are you sure your side hinges are okay? No leaks from there correct? Ever resolve your issue? Sorry for the delay.
Hey thanks for the 'How To' you should get 'hazardous duty' pay and some Purple Hearts for the wounds incurred 👍 I was going to attempt it on my 2005 Zed pump failed a week after I bought it used last month..
I called the dealership ( not BMW dealership) where I bought it and they graciously agreed to replace it, even though it was not warrantied ..The I got to looking at pics of the car they had posted on their website and they did not have one pic of the car with the top down...even though all 17 of the other convertibles ALL had 4 pics in a panel w/ top down.
I'm thinking they knew and were just hoping someone would say 'oh well'They fixed it in one day..Paid in a spare key $235 from the local BMW dealership , and detailed the car real nice for me as a goodwill gesture.So I was spared some sliced fingers...:-)
That was nice of you to post the vid...you seem like a calm dude and made it look easy..thanks again,
Glad they took care of you! Not many dealerships out there will do that. Just peek your head in to see that the motor housing was properly sealed or else you will have the same issue some short months down the road. Thanks for the compliments. Enjoy the Z life!
Pull the “u bracket” from the front not inside the trunk. I used a long screw driver both sides popped right up
Forgot to ask...anything special I should specifically be looking for physically on the pump to see if it starting to fail?btw..sold my 2004 325i with 80,000 before I bought the Z..excellent shape..clutch was getting tired.same color combo as your Z.
The pump failing is usually caused by water leaking into the housing. You can hear the pump work super loud and sound like a cringing machine more than a smooth motor. What I did was add extra fluid to mine and relocate it to behind the drivers seat for now. I am short so I can get away with this. I suggest using a lifetime waterproof silicone. Only use a little bit because if you make it too thick it won't squeeze back into its spot. On the motor itself, usually towards the bottom and on the "motherboard" you will see rust and corrosion start to form if the housing is compromised.
Nice buy! I went 2 months looking for a 5 speed 3.0 and ran into mine. I didn't want red but it really grew on me. The 6 speed won me over.
About the banjo bolts: as far as I know - the hydraulic lines don't need to be aligned with the hole inside the bolt.
correct
Great video. Just wondering... I got the roof off and it turned out the release valve was stuck on the pump and the motor etc was fine and the roof opened and closed perfectly when running the motor direct from a battery. Now I’ve put it back on the car the roof won’t work again (even when disconnecting all the cables and running direct from battery). It feels like there is pressure building on the pump so I’m wondering if one of the hydraulic lines has pinched and that’s the issue (they look fine all that I can see)? Does anyone have any ideas?
One possibility is that your red release lever cable is engaged. You can check to see that is it not "out" or too tight. There is a white plastic knob that can be screwed to adjust the tension of that cable. Just follow that cable back from the red lever and you will see what I am talking about. Keep us posted and GL!
Sorry for late reply - only got round to looking at the car again today. I’d not actually put the release mechanism back on the pump yet as I was worried it would stick again, so I don’t think it’s that (appreciate the suggestion though). I’m planning to take the roof off again tomorrow and will update when I get to the bottom of it. I’m sure I’ve pinched one of the hydraulic lines.
Got the roof off again and it wasn’t a pinched hydraulic line. The pump is basically not pumping (even though it worked fine in testing before refitting the roof). Currently taking the pump apart to see if there’s an obvious issue but might need to replace it. I’ll be selling the damn car after all of this!!
@@dorianrees sorry you are having so many issues. It's been one repair after the other for me as well. Been contemplating selling it but at least I know what has been serviced on the car!
So after taking the roof off for a second time, there was an issue with the pump where one of the little pins had fallen out. Put it all back and, again, the roof worked fine out of the car. Now it’s all back in the car it still won’t work. The engage/disengage mechanism works but although the motor runs when you press the button, the roof doesn’t move. I’m totally lost! Have asked for tips on a Z4 owners’ group on Facebook. Will update further when I (hopefully) find a solution. Thanks.
Hi.
thanks for your educational video, I wonder if you can help me, my cab doesn't lock when I open it, so the red light keeps flashin all the time, what's wrong? thnks in advance! Greeting Iradj
Sorry for the late reply, perhaps you can reply how you fixed the issue so others can learn too. Are you saying that your roof is closing but does not lock tight once it is pressing against your windshield frame front lock hatches (by your rear view mirror)? If so, it sounds like the issue is the latch lock motor that I believe is found within your framework above your rear view mirror.
is it possible to get soft top pump from the trunk?
Yes it is, however, I did not do it that way. From what I understand, you have to remove the roof's upper shelf and try to reach in there from the trunk. Undoing the motor housing from the mounting clip might be tricky and put you in an awkward position. To be honest once you've taken the roof off once it is super easy to do again and worth it to me. Remember to inspect your hinges.
Where did you get the replacement motor, is it a BMW OEM part?
I bought from BMW dealership. I've heard people using motors from other cars but I am clueless about that.
Hello , Pray4u , I had the same issue about hydro pump motor then I just purchase a new one . After I replaced its and test its before reinstalling the rooftop back on its just work fine . Then after I put it back in , I heard the motor running, but the roof doesn't move at all. So do you have any idea or did I do something wrong? Thank you, have a good labor day weekend.
James Le is the trunk roof installed correctly? It needs to be contacting the sensor that you see on the back wall.
Hi, thanx for a great video. How long does it take to do this? Is it doable in a weekend?
if you have the motor already, it can be done in about 4 hours. The annoying part is waiting to buy the motor until you test the current motor after removing the roof. Then having to garage the car until you get your motor.
Many thanks for your answer. What is your opinion regarding failing opening....Is the motor the most likely reason for malfunction?
Istvan Bartha is the light that is by the roof button in your cabin red or orange when you hit it? if it is orange then your trunk roof is just out of place and the safety sensor is stopping you. a motor may be bad if it opens the roof only partially, makes loud grinding noises, or something nothing happens at all. diagnosing is the hardest part.
Nice video,I want to ask you a question about bmw z4.how can I contact you?
what's up?
@@Pray4UrLife12 Is it possible get your email address?
@@jimmy-np6jy Ask here so others can learn from it too.
@@Pray4UrLife12Maybe can only replace the motor not the whole part.
@@jimmy-np6jy that is possible. I remember seeing a thread on some forum that used the motor off of another vehicle which was the same type as ours but I do not know wherr I saw it. Try to search it online. Most peoples issue is water damage so I do not know if it is worth the risk if it ends up not solving the problem. I do not know how to rule out if that is a good idea or not.
Hello.. How much oil you get in? Thanks for answer
I am not sure what you mean. If you are asking about the oil for the motor, I believe there is a fill line that you can see in the chamber. I filled it up to there. Open and close the roof a couple times then recheck the level again.
hi I have same problem it would be great if could link where you got hydrolic lines
allthingsmelbourne I only replaced the motor.
do you know of any place that shipps to australia?
thanks
Is it possible to take the outer shell off without removing the entire top?
you can take the shell off but the trouble comes when you have to bolt and unbolt the hydraulic lines. It is a much faster and easier job if you just take the roof off. I tried without and could not.
I tried replacing mine and hydraulic fluid is spitting out from where the hydraulic lines meet the pump. The top wont move. Any ideas on why that would happen
Did you make sure to tighten down the bolts all the way and place the lines in the correct spot on the motor? I don't remember if there are o rings but you should see them in the video if so. Make sure they are in place if so.
@Pray4UrLife12 I read online that they should only be tightened to 12 nm. I did tighten them more but it didn't work. Neither the original nor the new pump had a large o-ring. Maybe that's what I'm missing. That or the banjo bolts are so rusted through they just don't work anymore. Rather not take it to bmw cause they'll charge me 6k, both my kidneys and my first born child to fix it lol
@@hydrosynthetik haha true true. Try soaking any rusted components in vinegar overnight.
How much was the hydraulic motor? and did you get it from the dealership? I'm looking into doing the same but i've seen these motors go for $200 on ebay
Hi Pray4u, this is James again, I just found out one of the hydraulic lift cylinder on passenger side its leaking, do you know how to fix it or any suggestions? Thanks, have a great weekend.
James Le sorry, I do not know. Buy the part and replace it? Or see if it can be rebuilt.
Great video. If you do some more works on your Z4 I would appreciate it you taking the time to video it. You've got very nice car.
Ricky Guillermo will do. I have to do an oil change soon but I already did the transmission fluid and rear brakes 10k miles ago. Front brakes are next on the list.
Pray4UrLife12 super awesome. I'm a follower now and for sure there's a lot out there like me who needs some videos from an expert like you. You're video tutorials are awesome.
Ricky Guillermo i have never done it myself but I know once you removed the roof they are on the front end of the soft top (i think). One youtuber asked me the same thing and ended up doing it himself.
What year is your Z4?
I checked my car switches and fuses and motor pretty much everything and still not working what can it be? Seems like the lower button doesn't send signal to the motor
If your light is blinking orange when you try to open the roof, it could be that the trunk roof cover is not engaging the metal switch sensor. That sensor is on the back wall of the trunk. Check that first. If not, maybe you can remove and test the roof button switches with a multi-meter?
What color is the light when you hit the lower roof button? Is it solid or flashing?
@@Pray4UrLife12 it blinks, I already checked the micro switch, fuses and replaced the motor. It seems like when I hit the button to lower the hood doesn't send the signal of that button to the motor. I switched the cables of the button to see if it worked and when I did that the close button worked lowering the hood but not which means one line button is not working
. I believe there is something wrong with the green cable which is the lower button but I'm not sure. I been looking for help this past years. I wanna DIY my self
is it possible just to replace the electric motor??? side of the Unit
I am unaware of such a way but maybe the forums mention it? I have read before of people soaking the motor in a solution and it worked afterwords. I believe it was vinegar or such? Again the forums know better!
Parts are available .... everything,,complete units and or just replacing what's bad in your situation...electric side(motor) hydraulic side (Hyd pump).. a lot of people are using a ford mustang convertible unit made by the same guys HB Hoebinger..makes everybody's "units".. Thanks for your video!!! I learned a lot!!!!!!!!
Hi guys, I need an answer ASAP please, I replaced the motor and doing testing now but during test sometimes working and sometimes no!!! And leaking hydraulic oil from both side jacks!! What's that meaning? And what should I do now? Thanks
Nadeen Alkaabi Hey, sorry to hear you are having issues. Check your hydraulic fluid level. You may be leaking from your lines due to a past pinch in the line? not exactly sure what you are asking. put up a video or photo? also, check if your silver bolts that you used the attach your fluid lines to your pump are lined up correctly. ensure motor is on the upright position when testing it. if you are low on fluid do not test until you top it off. did you test your old motor as well?
Pray4UrLife12 Thanks for fast answer! Yes was same issue but old one was tired voice not same new motor voice. I full it hydraulic oil because it's keep leaking from both adages (the ones on both side comes inside the car) could you call me please at 312-863-1491 just to explain it clearly please. Thanks. Hassan
I have removed my top on z4 when I got it back on it latches in the up position fine when down theres a huge gap from top to trunk what did I do wrong would appreciate some advice
Did you lower the roof rack....not sure whatever to call it. Rotate the knobs downwards on each side.
The motor is easy to find on ebay. Just search it.
I thought so, there's couple hydraulic rebuild on line, thanks Pray4u.
I mounted the motor on my 03 in the trunk.
what is the drive style of this car?
Rear wheel drive. Mine is a 6 speed manual. Is that what you are asking?
@@Pray4UrLife12 no. disk model?
How do you add hydrolic fluid ?
SuperDagod1 unscrew to screw on the plastic section found on top of the motor and add it there.
For sale?
guys do i need to remove the top just to change my headliner?
No
Do you live in California by any chance :)
I pulled red tab , nothing happened ☹️
@@bob4003 if you look along the cable line that the red tab is attached to, you will find a white plastic portion that you can rotate to adjust the tightness of the cable. It may be that your cable system needs tightening.
@@Pray4UrLife12 I’ll look for that, thanks
Thank you!!
I am wondering if you can comment that being so time consuming and difficult to get to it, one may make a hole from the bottom of the car and insert a fish camera with light to check corrosion. or cut part of the bottom to remove and replace. If that is possible and why BMW does not provide drainage to start with. Replies will be appreciated.
I have never heard of such an approach. There are drain hole plugs at the bottom of the chamber that allow rain drainage. I guess you could remove that and feed a line through but that isn't very straight forward. The motor itself is in a case that would not be easily opened with that approach. It is best to just relocate it to the trunk. You can also just look at it from up top if all you want to do is check if you are holding water or if you have a compromised motor.
@@Pray4UrLife12 Good answer. Thank you
the camera movement made me motion sick. :( Too bad, this video was helping.
Hey there! Thanks for pointing it out. I went ahead and added video stabilization. Hope it helps! Good luck on the fix. :)
Bro you are making me sea sick! Haha good vid though!
excellent !
Thank you!
R?
thank you for this video
Damn it’s really tough when people make videos and say “this is the hydraulic line fluid you need“ then flashing in front of the camera as fast as I can with maybe only one single frame and focus… At least hold it there long enough for people to see without having to rewind and all that man… Especially hard Porten that is to the operation
save yourself the money and just use any orange colored hydraulic fluid.
Dude you never disconnect the positive battery, always the negative!! Reason you're still grounded and if you hit metal with that positive cable, you can short the whole system.. THEN YOU'RE SCREWED 🤦
Correct, thank you for your input and clarification. I explain my reasoning in the video.
😮
I removed my motor without taking the roof off, took me 40 mins
Fred Capp how??
If you remove the shelf unit in the boot, you can reach to the front corner of the wheel arch ( left hand side) and feel the top of the motor housing, the motor sits in a plastic container and the lid is taped on with gaffa tape. Most of it is by feel but once you partially peel the tape off, you use a large screwdriver to lever the lid off, don't worry if you damage the lid, you have to persevere but once the lid is off you can wiggle the motor out(still attached to hydraulic pipes and electrics) and bring it over into the boot, it took me 40 mins. Go online and find some fotos of the motor and housing, you'll get a better picture to see what you're up against.
Sure, you can do all of that...or you can just pull the motor out through the trunk in just a few minutes without disassembling anything.
OMG id be happy to pay someone to get all this crap done - looks like a horrific job 😱
Why can't this motor be sealed so water cannot enter it? It runs less than 15 seconds to open or close the top! The motor will not get hot enough to harm it in 15! If it was intrinsically safe water could not enter the motor and ruin it!
That's.... really damn red.
That's why it's called "Hellrot"!
next time, please ask someone to take the video. I'm getting seasick
Helping my neighbor with his z4.
BMW SHOULD HAVE BUILT ONE… THEN STOPPED !!
Terrible engineering….
I'm
That top does not have to come off to get to that motor. Waste of time.