The thing you guys don't realize is the hole going through that brick is just big enough for copper pipe forget getting a frost free Sillcock in there. Unless you want to break out the masonary hole saw... that's what I thought. Yes we on new installs have to use frost free sillcocks but on old difficult existing applications this is your best bet. Nice job Steve from your fellow plumber here in NH
@@mkl5448 exactly just use a hammer drill with a bigger bit takes no time to do it right not to mention the one he put in has no vacuum breaker, this is just common sense this is just pure laziness on his part
I used to do part time yard work for a lawyer's wife. She had concrete floors in Her House and I turned on a faucet outside and it wouldn't shut off. They had to call a plumber to fix it. I am glad that I didn't have to fix it.
As long as steve can bleed and winterize it, a standard boiler drain valve should be fine, but I do love the frost proof ones they’re so convenient and a headache saver.
Thanks Steve. I got to do this. Mine leaks everywhere when it is turned. It will shut off but the washer and valve have been changed before. Thanks again for the information.
my guess is the homeowner didn't want to pay the parts/labor cost. Cheap. But that's life in the plumbing business. Educate the homeowner and offer options. If they decline, then put in what they want. Explain to them that you'll be back out to fix their burst lines when they forget to shut the valve off when the first freeze up happens in the autumn.
2 washers, that was all it needed, unless you opened it up and saw the seats were bad or stem rotting. But, you also left all the crud inside the filter housing to get onto the new filter and a bit of it to get past the filter, and never once deburred the inside of a cut pipe.
@@cone6052 I mean, he has hundreds of jobs videod and posted on here, he def doesn't do that. If anything he undersells people tbh, I've seen plenty where he talks them out of overspending.
agree I replace most old valves when doing a major repair ,just more shit to go wrong later ,I like those quarter turn small shut offs best .Guess there is no way to install a freeze plug spigot .
Hi Steven, Great workvideos, but mal ne question: Why do they still use soldering fittings? There are now these great pressure fittings. Goes very fast and is directly tight .. also for hot water. Best regards Walter
That would be a no and it’s not code to use that kind, I’m sure Steve knows this but it would of been more time and effort to break out the hammer drill to make a bigger hole for the frost prof silcock
In our country we use out side spigots with freeze plugs .Main shut off valves try to avoid ball valves because of the quick shock to the system, any weak link might burst .
Some diesel engines require large amounts of effort to start when cold, for that reason many drivers like to idle the engine rather than shut it off. The money spent on fuel during extended idling might be offset by having fewer repair bills on batteries, glow plugs, starters, and other items. That in mind, most computerized direct injection diesels start without much effort. It is best not to idle a modern diesel for long periods of time because the EGR cooler can clog with soot and either cause lost horsepower or a failed smog test. The problem became more common around the year 2002, and around 2008, the problem became even worse for some engine designs.
In a video a few days ago he was starting the truck up while it was cold out. Sounds like he has some cold starting problems so making sure he can get to next job. Even a buck in diesel will save a tow bill and insure he will get to next job to make 96$ an hour.
I was thinking the same thing, why leave the scum in the bottom housing of a fresh filter - the filters starting out with crap that would otherwise take months to collect, not to mention the bacterial aspect of letting it sit there and "grow" bacteria-lol I was also thinking about some silicone around the outside to keep water from running inside the brick foundation - but then im always a nit picker.
When I swap out the filter at my house, I fill a pot with water before shutting off the water. This way I have water on hand to rinse the filter housing with.
Why need to remove anything??? The water filter after replace, why not clean up the case and drain the dirty water. Why not do the simple repair replace the washer of faucet. Waste time to get more money
I have a "T fitting" that's a slow slow dripper in the basement where it branches off to feed the kitchen sink hot water line and then the 2nd floor hot water lines. It's been slowly accumulating white and green crud over the past 20 years. Would a novice like me be better off using "sharkbite" fittings since I never used solder and torch before or are sharkbites not good for remodeling work?
I just looked at the Tee fitting just now. The drip is coming from only one spot on the top where the single main tube is pointing up to the sub-floor, it's an upside down tee when looking at it in the basement. The "t part" of the fitting is pointing down to the basement floor. Couldn't I use a MAP gas torch since it's hotter and after I drain the water from all the water lines in the house then just re-heat the one spot where it drips and pop it out just a few inches by pushing up towards the sub-floor and then sanding it down and re-fluxing it before either I or someone with more experience can solder it back together? This tee fitting is about 30 feet away from the water heater tank, I wonder if the water heater needs to be drained as well.
Jason Jay it will be hard to solder if there still water it might not take the solder older piping and might leak more just cut it out that be a lot easier to solder new piping and fitting and you know that it wouldn't leak if don't known how to solder get someone that experience
I would have taken apart the outside faucet before soldering it to the copper pipe. That way you don't damage any of the internals like seals or O-rings.
The old silcocks are truly the best.. but must be shut off during the winter.... Great message again Steve. Robert jr NJ here Asbury Park.
The thing you guys don't realize is the hole going through that brick is just big enough for copper pipe forget getting a frost free Sillcock in there. Unless you want to break out the masonary hole saw... that's what I thought. Yes we on new installs have to use frost free sillcocks but on old difficult existing applications this is your best bet. Nice job Steve from your fellow plumber here in NH
@@mkl5448 exactly just use a hammer drill with a bigger bit takes no time to do it right not to mention the one he put in has no vacuum breaker, this is just common sense this is just pure laziness on his part
good job Steve as always,good tape.kept them coming thank a lot .MAMA!!!!!!
good job steve. This is exactly I looking for video for training become plumber . Thank alot
It’s nice to see somebody who knows how to use a B bottle and turbo torch
I always enjoy your videos. It's fun to watch all that experience.
Excellent work Steve.
Nice job and video like always ( Steven )
I used to do part time yard work for a lawyer's wife. She had concrete floors in Her House and I turned on a faucet outside and it wouldn't shut off. They had to call a plumber to fix it. I am glad that I didn't have to fix it.
As long as steve can bleed and winterize it, a standard boiler drain valve should be fine, but I do love the frost proof ones they’re so convenient and a headache saver.
Thanks Steve. I got to do this. Mine leaks everywhere when it is turned. It will shut off but the washer and valve have been changed before. Thanks again for the information.
Steve, nice repair, you do the job right. Always learning from you.. Thanks, for the video.
why not use a frost proof wall hydrant? Do not take it the wrong way but i would think they would be popular up north.
probably $$... but your right, pay now or pay later when the pipe freezes
I was thinking the same thing. I thought it was common practice, but what do I know . I'm a mason.
Would have to drill out masonry. Get drain angle on hole. The old way works OK.
my guess is the homeowner didn't want to pay the parts/labor cost. Cheap. But that's life in the plumbing business. Educate the homeowner and offer options. If they decline, then put in what they want. Explain to them that you'll be back out to fix their burst lines when they forget to shut the valve off when the first freeze up happens in the autumn.
I would have put a frost proof valve in. I hope the lady of the house don't turn on the water before she turn the valve on.. Great video!
2 washers, that was all it needed, unless you opened it up and saw the seats were bad or stem rotting. But, you also left all the crud inside the filter housing to get onto the new filter and a bit of it to get past the filter, and never once deburred the inside of a cut pipe.
Did you see what he's soldering. It's not a refrigeration liquid line! No need to deburr pipe.Valve is over 10YEARS OLD ! Pipe in new valve.
Watching this in 2022 the price of diesel is over 4.00 a gal you still run your truck at the job?
Why didn't you dump and rinse the filter housing before you put the new filter in?
Because it’s going to get filter
Why would you put that clean filter back in that nasty carrier with dirty water in it? Come on man
nice vid again
He don't care, he just wanna waste more time(Money) to do other things.
@@cone6052 I mean, he has hundreds of jobs videod and posted on here, he def doesn't do that. If anything he undersells people tbh, I've seen plenty where he talks them out of overspending.
....at 12:25 I was surprised you hadn't already went for the sawzall...new level mama
Another great instructional video; lear n a lot from you Steve thanx/ a long time fan!
does it not melt the seat in the spigot when you sweat that outer joint?
Nice I did almost the same job to my house....but (regrettably) used anchors in the brick when it probably wasn't necessary
That’s where tapcon comes in handy
agree I replace most old valves when doing a major repair ,just more shit to go wrong later ,I like those quarter turn small shut offs best .Guess there is no way to install a freeze plug spigot .
Maybe use a frost free spigot?
Hi Steven,
Great workvideos, but mal ne question:
Why do they still use soldering fittings? There are now these great pressure fittings.
Goes very fast and is directly tight .. also for hot water.
Best regards
Walter
walter f. PROPRESS IS EXPENSIVE!! SHARK BITE ARE FOR TEMPORARY REPAIRS.
Is there a vacuum breaker in the faucet?
That would be a no and it’s not code to use that kind, I’m sure Steve knows this but it would of been more time and effort to break out the hammer drill to make a bigger hole for the frost prof silcock
Have you ever thought about getting a smaller tip for your torch.
In our country we use out side spigots with freeze plugs .Main shut off valves try to avoid ball valves because of the quick shock to the system, any weak link might burst .
your truck was running the whole time?
probably for baby the dog
Dirk oh yea i forgot about the dog.. that makes sence...
Neighbours must be thinking what dumb ass. Or is that common way in US?
Some diesel engines require large amounts of effort to start when cold, for that reason many drivers like to idle the engine rather than shut it off. The money spent on fuel during extended idling might be offset by having fewer repair bills on batteries, glow plugs, starters, and other items.
That in mind, most computerized direct injection diesels start without much effort.
It is best not to idle a modern diesel for long periods of time because the EGR cooler can clog with soot and either cause lost horsepower or a failed smog test. The problem became more common around the year 2002, and around 2008, the problem became even worse for some engine designs.
In a video a few days ago he was starting the truck up while it was cold out. Sounds like he has some cold starting problems so making sure he can get to next job. Even a buck in diesel will save a tow bill and insure he will get to next job to make 96$ an hour.
I am still amazed by how you not burn the house down soldering like that. (I mean this in a good way)
Have same problem. Old hose bib in concrete.
I’ve never seen a hose bib that hard to get out of the wall. Holy moma.
Great job Steve.
Looks good. I wish you would have rinsed out the filter can while you had it off. It's easier to be cheesier...
I was thinking the same thing, why leave the scum in the bottom housing of a fresh filter - the filters starting out with crap that would otherwise take months to collect, not to mention the bacterial aspect of letting it sit there and "grow" bacteria-lol I was also thinking about some silicone around the outside to keep water from running inside the brick foundation - but then im always a nit picker.
When I swap out the filter at my house, I fill a pot with water before shutting off the water. This way I have water on hand to rinse the filter housing with.
@@yambo59 nice vid again
A responsible plumber will replace a frost free valve on this job for their customer, because things will happen again.
Why need to remove anything??? The water filter after replace, why not clean up the case and drain the dirty water. Why not do the simple repair replace the washer of faucet. Waste time to get more money
12:53 it's like you are extracting a friggin' tooth!
nice vid again
type m copper , good fix steve!
Don't get hurt Steve BabyDog - chickens & Ducks need you all Nextlevel
nice job steve!!
Yes sir....a real wurka mama!
I have a "T fitting" that's a slow slow dripper in the basement where it branches off to feed the kitchen sink hot water line and then the 2nd floor hot water lines. It's been slowly accumulating white and green crud over the past 20 years. Would a novice like me be better off using "sharkbite" fittings since I never used solder and torch before or are sharkbites not good for remodeling work?
I just looked at the Tee fitting just now. The drip is coming from only one spot on the top where the single main tube is pointing up to the sub-floor, it's an upside down tee when looking at it in the basement. The "t part" of the fitting is pointing down to the basement floor. Couldn't I use a MAP gas torch since it's hotter and after I drain the water from all the water lines in the house then just re-heat the one spot where it drips and pop it out just a few inches by pushing up towards the sub-floor and then sanding it down and re-fluxing it before either I or someone with more experience can solder it back together? This tee fitting is about 30 feet away from the water heater tank, I wonder if the water heater needs to be drained as well.
Jason Jay it will be hard to solder if there still water it might not take the solder older piping and might leak more just cut it out that be a lot easier to solder new piping and fitting and you know that it wouldn't leak if don't known how to solder get someone that experience
Regarding the removal of that old faucet, it makes me sane to know that I'm not the only one that runs into b--- busters.
was it not easy just to bend the pipes than use fittings
I was worried you got hit with the hammer. That faucet was in there.
Must be more masonry behind the face brick.
nice work. :)
Turn your truck off. Do some pre pro before you start shooting so that you don't eat up 5 mins of beer drinking time.
Use A Frost Proof Faucet... People Will Always Forget To Shut Off The Shut off Valve..
In there like swimwear momma
I would have taken apart the outside faucet before soldering it to the copper pipe. That way you don't damage any of the internals like seals or O-rings.
yeah you solder it and the faucet outside cockeyed. lol
You don't want a leaker mama
She's a leaker mama
Should just spray some WD40 or similar lubricant!
Type M???? Or just crappy water.
A shitshow on this one momma