The problem you have is almost certainly the draft control spring that needs adjusting or the linkage that goes to the draft spring is bent. If the hydraulics will lift when the top link is removed then the problem is not with the pump. When you lift an implement with the top link fitted the weight of the implement pulls on the draft control spring which is located in the top cover tube directly behind the top link pin. Dependant on the weight of the implement the spring is compressed, if the weight is too heavy the linkage is placed in the lowering position overriding the setting of the lifting levers. The setting of this spring is critical and was the most overlooked and least understood of all the settings of MF hydraulics. To set the spring up. First remove the top link then with the engine off stand at the rear of the tractor and place the lift levers in the lowering position now try to push and pull the top link in and out. There should be NO movement in either direction. If any movement can be felt then the control spring needs to be removed and adjusted. This is the fun bit I don't think. Looking from the rear there is an allan grub screw on the right hand side at the top of the top like case. Slacken this off ( if you can ) then there is a rubber boot near the top link remove this, behind the boot is a large round nut with holes on the inside to take a removal tool. Undo the large nut and remove the control spring. These can get seized and be very difficult to get out. If you can get it out you will have a large spring with a rod running through the centre. From memory ( and it is a long time ago ) there is a pin that locks the threaded rod in place. You need to remove the pin and adjust the threaded rod. This is how to adjust the spring. The spring should be just tight enough so you can turn it with your hand and have no loose movement. So tighten the rod until all the play is taken out of the spring but it hasn't compressed the spring. Replace the pin. Put the assembly back into the top cover and screw in the large round nut again until all the in and out play is taken up but not enough to compress the spring or the play will come back. This adjustment is critical and can be very difficult if the large nut is seized. There is one other thing to check. The bolt you adjusted inside the case is the stop bolt to prevent the linkage from going into the full lower position when a really heavy weight is being lifted. There was a modification done to this linkage back in the day due to it being prone to bending and it was beefed up. To check this you would need to remove the top cover to have a look. I think it was called the ( dog ear link, look like a dogs ear ) it bends at the bottom. Its a big job to fix this if you are not accustom to working on these hydraulics. This link got bent when a heavy implement was carried on the hydraulics and driven down the road too fast the bouncing up and down would bend the link though the top link spring. Good luck
derek you are exactly right!! And your repair is what I tried to do however, the set screw that retains the adjustment was just too far gone... to counteract the draft spring being pulled back and over riding the control lever, I decided to just adjust the stop of that assembly so the draft spring can not be pulled back.... I will just have to be careful what I pick up with the hydraulic because it’s likely to break the case if too much weight is picked up
You will not break the case the hydraulic relive valve will protect everything. The valve on a standard system blows at 2500psi and on a pressure control system at 3000psi. The standard vale is not adjustable but the pressure control is adjustable. To test the relieve valve pressure put a pressure gauge on the end of the trailer pipe and take the hydraulics right up into constant pumping and it will blow off. If you havnt got a gauge just go into constant pumping and listen for the valve it has a crack, crack ,crack sound if you here this the valve is working they very rarely fail. Also if the hydraulics will blow the relive valve on engine tick over the pump is ok. If he pump is worn the valve will not blow off on tick over. The spring only works when you are using draft control it dosnt come into play on position control but in position control when the hydraulics reach the top the hydraulics are placed in a neutral position you need to either fit a set of stabilizers or go into constant pumping to get the valve to blow off. The MF hydraulic system is very complicated and very reliable but it needs to be set up correctly or they just don't work. Its not something you can work out yourself easily. In the day I used to go out regularly to tractors that other engineers had had a go at and got lost.
derek evans this is great information. We have an old 135 I’m trying to run a small 3pt backhoe. Won’t lift it with top link connected. With disconnected it lifts just fine. Your comments will I think lead me down the right path to fixing this! Thanks!
@@NowellHolmes The first thing to do is to test the relive valve pressure, fit a pressure gauge to the trailer pipe if you have one and lift the hydraulics until the relive valve blows, It should show 2500 psi on just over tick over. If you don't have a gauge you should be able to hear it blow and the engine revs will drop. If it will do this on just over tick over the pump is fine. Grip the casting where the top link goes and try to push it in and out you should not be able to move it in either direction. there is a rubber boot behind this casing and a large round peg nut. There is an alan key that locks it in position I think was on the riht side unscrew the large peg nut and withdraw the draft control spring. It can be a right cow to get out. If you ever get it out contact me for the adjustment of the spring. There is a link on the inside of the hydraulic top cover that could bend but that's another job.
Good to hear from you-DK ...Not enough to hay but too much to mow- drag this thing around the yard and BAM done/ that way more time for archery - need to ck it out when you swing by
Try the lift without the top link connected. If it lifts faster/ better then the problem is with the main control spring inside the rear of the top cover. With the top link disconnected see if you can push or pull the top link connection on or out, there should be no movement. I think whats happening is when you lift a weight the top link is pulling the spring forward and that's trying to lower the weight. If you think this needs adjusting leave a message its not an easy job if you haven't done it before. Adjusting that bolt inside the cover is overriding the spring that bolt should never need adjusting. Another test is to take off the implement and disconnect the stabilisers and run the tractor put the lift control to constant pumping it should lift the arms right up and the relive valve will blow this proves the pump is ok. The mf hydraulics are quite complex. Good luck
Hey Adam... it’s been awhile since I messed with that thing... best I remember I elongated the screw until it touched the back of the top cover... this overrides the mechanism that limits hydraulics from picking up very heavy loads.... BTW this is probably not a “correct” fix ....and seems like it could potentially cause damage to the top of the case (top cover)....but it worked for me....so good luck!!
Hello, I have the same problem, the hydraulics will not stop at the set height, but go to the maximum. I checked the pump and it is working. does anyone know what the problem is?
Cassidy- look inside the right-hand inspection panel- and make sure the little roller pin is there- it's easy for it to pop off the fork and would spring back to full up command- good luck-hope you get it
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The problem you have is almost certainly the draft control spring that needs adjusting or the linkage that goes to the draft spring is bent.
If the hydraulics will lift when the top link is removed then the problem is not with the pump.
When you lift an implement with the top link fitted the weight of the implement pulls on the draft control spring which is located in the top cover tube directly behind the top link pin. Dependant on the weight of the implement the spring is compressed, if the weight is too heavy the linkage is placed in the lowering position overriding the setting of the lifting levers. The setting of this spring is critical and was the most overlooked and least understood of all the settings of MF hydraulics.
To set the spring up. First remove the top link then with the engine off stand at the rear of the tractor and place the lift levers in the lowering position now try to push and pull the top link in and out. There should be NO movement in either direction. If any movement can be felt then the control spring needs to be removed and adjusted. This is the fun bit I don't think.
Looking from the rear there is an allan grub screw on the right hand side at the top of the top like case. Slacken this off ( if you can ) then there is a rubber boot near the top link remove this, behind the boot is a large round nut with holes on the inside to take a removal tool. Undo the large nut and remove the control spring. These can get seized and be very difficult to get out.
If you can get it out you will have a large spring with a rod running through the centre. From memory ( and it is a long time ago ) there is a pin that locks the threaded rod in place. You need to remove the pin and adjust the threaded rod.
This is how to adjust the spring. The spring should be just tight enough so you can turn it with your hand and have no loose movement. So tighten the rod until all the play is taken out of the spring but it hasn't compressed the spring. Replace the pin. Put the assembly back into the top cover and screw in the large round nut again until all the in and out play is taken up but not enough to compress the spring or the play will come back. This adjustment is critical and can be very difficult if the large nut is seized.
There is one other thing to check. The bolt you adjusted inside the case is the stop bolt to prevent the linkage from going into the full lower position when a really heavy weight is being lifted. There was a modification done to this linkage back in the day due to it being prone to bending and it was beefed up. To check this you would need to remove the top cover to have a look. I think it was called the ( dog ear link, look like a dogs ear ) it bends at the bottom. Its a big job to fix this if you are not accustom to working on these hydraulics. This link got bent when a heavy implement was carried on the hydraulics and driven down the road too fast the bouncing up and down would bend the link though the top link spring.
Good luck
derek you are exactly right!! And your repair is what I tried to do however, the set screw that retains the adjustment was just too far gone... to counteract the draft spring being pulled back and over riding the control lever, I decided to just adjust the stop of that assembly so the draft spring can not be pulled back.... I will just have to be careful what I pick up with the hydraulic because it’s likely to break the case if too much weight is picked up
You will not break the case the hydraulic relive valve will protect everything. The valve on a standard system blows at 2500psi and on a pressure control system at 3000psi. The standard vale is not adjustable but the pressure control is adjustable.
To test the relieve valve pressure put a pressure gauge on the end of the trailer pipe and take the hydraulics right up into constant pumping and it will blow off. If you havnt got a gauge just go into constant pumping and listen for the valve it has a crack, crack ,crack sound if you here this the valve is working they very rarely fail. Also if the hydraulics will blow the relive valve on engine tick over the pump is ok. If he pump is worn the valve will not blow off on tick over. The spring only works when you are using draft control it dosnt come into play on position control but in position control when the hydraulics reach the top the hydraulics are placed in a neutral position you need to either fit a set of stabilizers or go into constant pumping to get the valve to blow off. The MF hydraulic system is very complicated and very reliable but it needs to be set up correctly or they just don't work. Its not something you can work out yourself easily. In the day I used to go out regularly to tractors that other engineers had had a go at and got lost.
derek evans this is great information. We have an old 135 I’m trying to run a small 3pt backhoe. Won’t lift it with top link connected. With disconnected it lifts just fine. Your comments will I think lead me down the right path to fixing this! Thanks!
@@NowellHolmes The first thing to do is to test the relive valve pressure, fit a pressure gauge to the trailer pipe if you have one and lift the hydraulics until the relive valve blows, It should show 2500 psi on just over tick over. If you don't have a gauge you should be able to hear it blow and the engine revs will drop. If it will do this on just over tick over the pump is fine. Grip the casting where the top link goes and try to push it in and out you should not be able to move it in either direction. there is a rubber boot behind this casing and a large round peg nut. There is an alan key that locks it in position I think was on the riht side unscrew the large peg nut and withdraw the draft control spring. It can be a right cow to get out. If you ever get it out contact me for the adjustment of the spring. There is a link on the inside of the hydraulic top cover that could bend but that's another job.
Good to hear from you-DK ...Not enough to hay but too much to mow- drag this thing around the yard and BAM done/ that way more time for archery - need to ck it out when you swing by
Seemed like it did the trick. Are you going to make hay now, or is it to maintain your archery range?
Try the lift without the top link connected. If it lifts faster/ better then the problem is with the main control spring inside the rear of the top cover.
With the top link disconnected see if you can push or pull the top link connection on or out, there should be no movement. I think whats happening is when you lift a weight the top link is pulling the spring forward and that's trying to lower the weight. If you think this needs adjusting leave a message its not an easy job if you haven't done it before. Adjusting that bolt inside the cover is overriding the spring that bolt should never need adjusting.
Another test is to take off the implement and disconnect the stabilisers and run the tractor put the lift control to constant pumping it should lift the arms right up and the relive valve will blow this proves the pump is ok.
The mf hydraulics are quite complex. Good luck
Hello I'm having the same problem with my 135 when you say you adjusted against the stop, did you shorten or elongate the screw?
Hey Adam... it’s been awhile since I messed with that thing... best I remember I elongated the screw until it touched the back of the top cover... this overrides the mechanism that limits hydraulics from picking up very heavy loads.... BTW this is probably not a “correct” fix ....and seems like it could potentially cause damage to the top of the case (top cover)....but it worked for me....so good luck!!
Hello, I have the same problem, the hydraulics will not stop at the set height, but go to the maximum. I checked the pump and it is working. does anyone know what the problem is?
Buna am un massey fergunsonMF135 de ridicat ridica. Nu lasa jos. Care ar fi problema
It's the same problem with me here
I can't get mine to go down
Cassidy- look inside the right-hand inspection panel- and make sure the little roller pin is there- it's easy for it to pop off the fork and would spring back to full up command- good luck-hope you get it
@@generalbolt this is my issue as well....... it lifts but i cannot get it to go down..... any videos of this at all etc?
How did you solve problem?