Aloha, I just wanted to reach out and thank you, big time Magalo’s. I know ya apologized for low energy and what not… but you, yes you saved me. I must have watched 15 to 20 how to’s on rebuilding Axles and Hub Bearings … and not one of them EVER mentioned the O-Ring that goes on the back of the Hub bearing. (And I had mine already put together on the Spindle) Luckily for me, I caught your Tips before finishing up and dropping the Taco off the jacks. Can’t thank you enough, you are the MAN ALOHA
Working on my 2012 TRD Tacoma. This was very helpful! I bought new front wheel bearings and seals from my dealer assuming it was the whole hub assembly. Now I am putting the bearings in months later to find the dealer did not sell me the entire assembly and now I have to pull the bearings apart. My parts guy did not give me a new o-ring seal, so you really saved me a lot of grief. It totally makes sense to replace that o-ring after going through the work of rebuilding the bearing and seals. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to record, edit, and share this video. Greatly appreciated and incredibly helpful! 5/21/2023 Edited comment for anybody looking to do this. Man this is a lot of work and you need a lot of special tools. One thing the video does not show is having to pack the new bearing with wheel bearing grease. The new Toyota front wheel bearing for my 12 TRD 4x4 Taco will come apart by hand before it's installed. I notice there was only light layer of assembly grease on both bearings and did not think anything of it. After I got home and was able to research more I found that I was supposed to pack the Toyota bearing with grease before pressing it together. This totally makes sense as there was just a smear of light grease in the new bearing when I pressed it back together. I ran out of time and only did one side. Thankfully I did not do both, because now I have to redo the first because it's not packed with grease and will end up failing. I am writing this comment hoping to save the next person the expense of having to buy another bearing and redo the job again.
Great video! I loved that you didn’t spend a lot of time jawing but gave great instruction and good video coverage. You cleared up a few of my questions including how to install back seal. Thanks!
This is helpful and very informative. One of very few tutorial video that mentions turning the other wheel to assist with removing the axle from spindle. This is also one of the few video that actually re-assembles the OEM wheel bearing and hub assembly instead of installing an aftermarket that comes in one piece. I think you missed the torque specs on the LCA bolts but otherwise this is the most complete video I was looking for. I’d recommend updating your title for more hits (OEM wheel bearing assembly).
@nordicpride970 I honestly used a Duralast gold bearing I haven’t had to do them at all since this video. New seals & proper axle nut torque go a long way!
For anyone watching that doesn’t want to spend $700 on a hub press kit as depicted, HF sells a MADDOX Front wheel drive bearing remover/install kit for about $119. Great video btw!
This is a great video. Thank you for posting, but you didn’t show the reconnection of the bolts in the lower control arm. Is that very straightforward or is there any special trick to it? I’m about to go into that step and trying to avoid any big trouble.
This is a great video! Thank you! I was replacing my CV axle and after I got it out of the bearing assembly I noticed the bad bearing seal, the one that backs against the outer CV joint/boot. My bearing seems fine, is there a way to replace the seal from the back (inner side) of the assembly? Or should I just extend my project and go ahead and replace the bearing assembly anyway?
You can replace just the rear seal if you would like! Just have to remove the axle to get access. The o ring can only be replaced if you remove the hub bearing assembly.
Thank you! I appreciate it. I’ll have some more videos coming soon I got a overland trailer build I’m finishing up that I’ll be posting up once I have time to edit!
Great how to video! I’m about to do this on my Tacoma. Are the new wheel bearings good to go out of the box or do I need to pack them with grease prior to install? I’m using OEM if that helps. Thank you.
I use an air powered cut off tool. They have a 3” disc to start but i prefer to use the discs for this purpose when they are smaller then that for the reason you stated
What are those two nuts you’re removing near the lower ball joint to pull the axel out? I’m changing my hub assembly tonight but nervous to do that spindle seal, can I just do the bearing and keep that seal on hand incase it fails?
Toyota was nice enough to put two 19mm bolts to separate the LCA from the spindle instead of removing the ball joint stud which is usually “stuck” makes things easier. If your seal is in good shape You can get away with not replacing it. ESP if you don’t feel comfortable doing it. Because a improperly installed seal is as bad as a worn out one!
The seal in the back that you used a hammer and chisel does that go in until flush with the outer flange? Plus the on the cv axle there is one that was messed up with one we are doing. Is that a seal or called something else. Auto zone can’t find that part.
Yes that will sit flush. I believe I got the one that goes in the axle from Toyota or possibly AutoZone. It’s been a few years so I can’t remember where exactly unfortunately.
To be honest I’ve never tried to remove it any other way. It is pressed on there very tightly. I’m sure you could rig something up with a puller of some sort to get it off but in the end it will be more work then it’s worth. If you don’t have access to air. You can substitute the cut off wheel for a angle grinder with a smaller blade. Then instead of the air hammer you could put the flange in the vice and use a chisel and regular hammer to hopefully split the bearing. It’s a brittle metal and splits relatively easy once you have cut into it.
If you do end up cutting into the surface Under the bearing race slightly that’s okay. Just take some finer sandpaper and smooth the hard edges a bit. It will still press back into the new bearing just fine.
If you’re replacing the wheel bearing with the hub assembly do you just unbolt those four bolts holding it in and it all comes loose? Or will you need a pulled tool? I’d be replacing my front wheel bearing with the hub assembly already built on and ready for assembly
Yessir you got it! You can just use a wrench to undo those 4 bolts and remove the hub even with the axle still in place if you would like. If it is a little stuck you may have to remove the axle from the hub just so you can work with it a bit.
@@Adv4x4 gotcha, luckily I have the 2015 pre runner 2wd so no cv upfront, so should be a breeze doing the wheel bearings lol I wanted to make sure they come straight out before I decide to commit and do it haha then need a special puller tool to separate the hub/bearing assembly from the spindle, thanks man! Appreciate the fast response 🤙
@@Adv4x4 one question, since I’m not 4x4 you think I could do the bearing and hub without removing the spindle from the truck? I mean I can remove the dust cover from the back loosen the special bearing nut and u bolt the four front bolts and really the bearing and hub should slide right out? 🤔 then I could replace the seals and install new bearing / hub
I see the way you didn't remove tie rod when you push out the cv axles? Would that ok to remove cv axles by this method? Would there be problem to put back cv axles without remove tie rod? Thank you.
@@maxmx9203 no problem! Glad I can help! Help spread the word of the channel if you can, I have a lot of useful diy videos I think many could benefit from 👍🏼
Gave you a like, but either gotta speak up, especially at the important times, or get a better mic. Thanks for posting. I'll never freaking do that in a driveway. Pay a mechanic!
Could you please tell me where you purchased the tool to pull and then press the new bearing in. Or at least give me the brand name so I can research it.
$50 at Harbor Feight www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789278398&product=62593&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhsmaBhCvARIsAIbEbH6fwbRacK-Hc7bzvK14yJ-AXQ05CPHOy5rfO9UHxsuazq2YdCXmZUIaAl5nEALw_wcB
I have a summer cold, and skwisgaar has a summer cold and pickles has a summer cold and adv4x4 has a summer cold. Just a heads up this is gonna be a bad show.
@@Adv4x4 it's just from a cartoon, the band is doing a concert but they start with a warning about it being bad because they're all sick when they're playing it. th-cam.com/video/IpR-sk8h2tk/w-d-xo.html Anyway, thanks for showing the hub removal because I do not have the money to buy all the extra tools I'd have to buy to get that race off so I'm just putting on a cheap chinese hub assembly for now.
Thanks for watching guys
Patches & Stickers Now Available!
www.adv4x4.us
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Aloha, I just wanted to reach out and thank you, big time Magalo’s. I know ya apologized for low energy and what not… but you, yes you saved me.
I must have watched 15 to 20 how to’s on rebuilding Axles and Hub Bearings … and not one of them EVER mentioned the O-Ring that goes on the back of the Hub bearing. (And I had mine already put together on the Spindle)
Luckily for me, I caught your Tips before finishing up and dropping the Taco off the jacks.
Can’t thank you enough, you are the MAN
ALOHA
Working on my 2012 TRD Tacoma. This was very helpful! I bought new front wheel bearings and seals from my dealer assuming it was the whole hub assembly. Now I am putting the bearings in months later to find the dealer did not sell me the entire assembly and now I have to pull the bearings apart. My parts guy did not give me a new o-ring seal, so you really saved me a lot of grief. It totally makes sense to replace that o-ring after going through the work of rebuilding the bearing and seals. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to record, edit, and share this video. Greatly appreciated and incredibly helpful! 5/21/2023 Edited comment for anybody looking to do this. Man this is a lot of work and you need a lot of special tools. One thing the video does not show is having to pack the new bearing with wheel bearing grease. The new Toyota front wheel bearing for my 12 TRD 4x4 Taco will come apart by hand before it's installed. I notice there was only light layer of assembly grease on both bearings and did not think anything of it. After I got home and was able to research more I found that I was supposed to pack the Toyota bearing with grease before pressing it together. This totally makes sense as there was just a smear of light grease in the new bearing when I pressed it back together. I ran out of time and only did one side. Thankfully I did not do both, because now I have to redo the first because it's not packed with grease and will end up failing. I am writing this comment hoping to save the next person the expense of having to buy another bearing and redo the job again.
So glad it was useful to you! Thanks for watching!
Wow that's wild bro. I'm glad you let me know this before I got them pressed together.
Great video! I loved that you didn’t spend a lot of time jawing but gave great instruction and good video coverage. You cleared up a few of my questions including how to install back seal. Thanks!
Thanks for actually showing the full installation including gaskets and seals unlike most of the other videos showing this process.
Big UPS!
Yessir! Not everyone wants to pay a mechanic to do work their capable of. Just tryna share the love. 🤘🏼
This is helpful and very informative. One of very few tutorial video that mentions turning the other wheel to assist with removing the axle from spindle. This is also one of the few video that actually re-assembles the OEM wheel bearing and hub assembly instead of installing an aftermarket that comes in one piece. I think you missed the torque specs on the LCA bolts but otherwise this is the most complete video I was looking for. I’d recommend updating your title for more hits (OEM wheel bearing assembly).
You just saved me so much time trying to get that race off the flange. Thanks.
Finally! A good video on changing the bearing and not the hub assembly!
🙌🏻🙌🏻
Excellent video, best well informed step by step, great job,
Thank you very much!
Very helpful
Well explained
This is the video I've been looking for very helpful!
Glad I could help!
@@Adv4x4 What brand bearing did you use? How’s it holding up?
@nordicpride970 I honestly used a Duralast gold bearing I haven’t had to do them at all since this video. New seals & proper axle nut torque go a long way!
Dude, these are great! Thanks.
Appreciate it Ted!
For anyone watching that doesn’t want to spend $700 on a hub press kit as depicted, HF sells a MADDOX Front wheel drive bearing remover/install kit for about $119. Great video btw!
Thank you!
Perfectly helpful!
Glad to hear Joe!
Great video thanks for making it.
Thank you!👍🏼
Good job
bien bien j'adore
That hub puller looks to be very helpful. You think I can just replace the dust seal only, where the outer cv axle mates with the knuckle? Thank you
great video
Thank you!
This is a great video. Thank you for posting, but you didn’t show the reconnection of the bolts in the lower control arm. Is that very straightforward or is there any special trick to it?
I’m about to go into that step and trying to avoid any big trouble.
This is a great video! Thank you! I was replacing my CV axle and after I got it out of the bearing assembly I noticed the bad bearing seal, the one that backs against the outer CV joint/boot. My bearing seems fine, is there a way to replace the seal from the back (inner side) of the assembly? Or should I just extend my project and go ahead and replace the bearing assembly anyway?
You can replace just the rear seal if you would like! Just have to remove the axle to get access. The o ring can only be replaced if you remove the hub bearing assembly.
Dig the screw driver trick. Better then the stud Riff Haha. 👍🏻
The day that trick occurred to me I was wondering why I hadn’t thought of it sooner! Very handy
Just came across your channel. You have some cool videos man. Thumbs up.
Thank you! I appreciate it. I’ll have some more videos coming soon I got a overland trailer build I’m finishing up that I’ll be posting up once I have time to edit!
can u make a vedio for a 4×2 toy tacoma, bearing it self install
Great how to video! I’m about to do this on my Tacoma. Are the new wheel bearings good to go out of the box or do I need to pack them with grease prior to install? I’m using OEM if that helps. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! They are ready to roll out of the box! Good luck with your repair!
Did you do that cut with like a smaller die grinder wheel? I can't imagine getting a 4 1/2 inch wheel close enough to the hub to cut the race.
I use an air powered cut off tool. They have a 3” disc to start but i prefer to use the discs for this purpose when they are smaller then that for the reason you stated
ABS sensor? Did you remove?
What are those two nuts you’re removing near the lower ball joint to pull the axel out? I’m changing my hub assembly tonight but nervous to do that spindle seal, can I just do the bearing and keep that seal on hand incase it fails?
Toyota was nice enough to put two 19mm bolts to separate the LCA from the spindle instead of removing the ball joint stud which is usually “stuck” makes things easier. If your seal is in good shape You can get away with not replacing it. ESP if you don’t feel comfortable doing it. Because a improperly installed seal is as bad as a worn out one!
Au cas ou on monte le roulement es que y'a toujours un petit jeu quel peut être la cause ?
The seal in the back that you used a hammer and chisel does that go in until flush with the outer flange? Plus the on the cv axle there is one that was messed up with one we are doing. Is that a seal or called something else. Auto zone can’t find that part.
Yes that will sit flush. I believe I got the one that goes in the axle from Toyota or possibly AutoZone. It’s been a few years so I can’t remember where exactly unfortunately.
One click when you torque?
5:10 Can you remove the inner race from the flange with a bearing remover kit or other way without breaking it even if we dont need it?
To be honest I’ve never tried to remove it any other way. It is pressed on there very tightly. I’m sure you could rig something up with a puller of some sort to get it off but in the end it will be more work then it’s worth. If you don’t have access to air. You can substitute the cut off wheel for a angle grinder with a smaller blade. Then instead of the air hammer you could put the flange in the vice and use a chisel and regular hammer to hopefully split the bearing. It’s a brittle metal and splits relatively easy once you have cut into it.
If you do end up cutting into the surface Under the bearing race slightly that’s okay. Just take some finer sandpaper and smooth the hard edges a bit. It will still press back into the new bearing just fine.
If you’re replacing the wheel bearing with the hub assembly do you just unbolt those four bolts holding it in and it all comes loose? Or will you need a pulled tool? I’d be replacing my front wheel bearing with the hub assembly already built on and ready for assembly
Yessir you got it! You can just use a wrench to undo those 4 bolts and remove the hub even with the axle still in place if you would like. If it is a little stuck you may have to remove the axle from the hub just so you can work with it a bit.
@@Adv4x4 gotcha, luckily I have the 2015 pre runner 2wd so no cv upfront, so should be a breeze doing the wheel bearings lol I wanted to make sure they come straight out before I decide to commit and do it haha then need a special puller tool to separate the hub/bearing assembly from the spindle, thanks man! Appreciate the fast response 🤙
No problem man! Good luck with your repair message me on IG if you have anymore questions! @adv.4x4
@@Adv4x4 one question, since I’m not 4x4 you think I could do the bearing and hub without removing the spindle from the truck? I mean I can remove the dust cover from the back loosen the special bearing nut and u bolt the four front bolts and really the bearing and hub should slide right out? 🤔 then I could replace the seals and install new bearing / hub
Correct! No need to remove whole spindle.
I see the way you didn't remove tie rod when you push out the cv axles? Would that ok to remove cv axles by this method? Would there be problem to put back cv axles without remove tie rod? Thank you.
You can use that same method to remove and replace your axle!
@@Adv4x4 Thank you very much for your info. BTW great video.
@@maxmx9203 no problem! Glad I can help! Help spread the word of the channel if you can, I have a lot of useful diy videos I think many could benefit from 👍🏼
You bet. Many friend of mine very impress your skills.
Gave you a like, but either gotta speak up, especially at the important times, or get a better mic.
Thanks for posting. I'll never freaking do that in a driveway. Pay a mechanic!
Part numbers?
Could you please tell me where you purchased the tool to pull and then press the new bearing in.
Or at least give me the brand name so I can research it.
It is called a hub tamer I believe it is made by OTC or bluepoint
$50 at Harbor Feight
www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789278398&product=62593&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhsmaBhCvARIsAIbEbH6fwbRacK-Hc7bzvK14yJ-AXQ05CPHOy5rfO9UHxsuazq2YdCXmZUIaAl5nEALw_wcB
The Advance Auto $25 seal parts numbers are: # 710453 (small) #710573 (Rear. CV Axle rides on this seal) # S-710573 (front seal)
Look similar to the toyota hilux hub/bearing assembly.
I have a summer cold, and skwisgaar has a summer cold and pickles has a summer cold and adv4x4 has a summer cold. Just a heads up this is gonna be a bad show.
Not sure I follow what you are saying here haha.
@@Adv4x4 it's just from a cartoon, the band is doing a concert but they start with a warning about it being bad because they're all sick when they're playing it.
th-cam.com/video/IpR-sk8h2tk/w-d-xo.html
Anyway, thanks for showing the hub removal because I do not have the money to buy all the extra tools I'd have to buy to get that race off so I'm just putting on a cheap chinese hub assembly for now.
Tool sizes mayne