I have replaced a lot of these units professionally. Just remove the airbag and vent like you showed. Remove the radio. Work with 2 hands one through the radio hole and the airbag hole. I bent a offset on a 8MM wrench box end. You need the offset to get the screw close to the firewall. You can remove all 4 screws with the wrench. I only put two screws back in. That's all it needs to hold it in place. I only use motorcraft part. The aftermarket ones don't last. I can do this job in 2 hours. Book allows 12 hours. Hope this helps.
That’s how I did my actuator. I just ended up breaking the tabs on the back two screws and then loosen to the screws. And then with the new actuator, I cut the two back tabs and then only used the two front screws to hold it into place and it works just fine but my problem is the actuator didn’t solve my issue lol
@davieboy1970 same here. I did it today. Took me 8 hours from start to finish. Couldn't get the radio out so was working from one side (air bag side). Replaced the actuator. Now it's blowing warm instead of cold like it did before. Sigh.
Good that you did this for the Mrs. Happy wife, happy life! I live in the southern US and only need heat a few months each year. There's no way I'm going through all that to replace my blend door. I'll pull the glove box out twice a year and switch it back and forth manually. I already have manual valves on my heater hoses.
When I had my CVPI, I looked into this. I read that the taxi company mechanics got so good at fixing these, they could bang it out in 45 minutes! It was suggested to go and talk to them, and work out a deal to get them to do your own.
Worked perfect! I cut a small piece out of the dash in front of the defrost vent. I was able to fit 1/4" extension down to get the back bolt closest to the steering wheel. Broke the front two off by prying up. Slotted the new one and wala! The old one broke off around the screw. I took a sawzall blade and cut it towards the screw until the plastic was worn away. Thank you so much for posting this. It helped a bunch!!
If your door is stuck, often you can do the self test and it breaks the door loose. It's temporary, and sometimes you have to run the test a few times, ( you'll get a code 025 and 024 most likely), it'll work for a while When you have extreme temps, it's worth a try. Got a 2010 Grand Marquis and have used that quickie several times. Nothing to lose. Takes less than two minutes and it could work in a pinch.
quick question i ran the test and only code that came back was “030” “in car automatic temperature sensor short to ground”. i found where the sensor is at cleaned it up (without removing) anything sensor cleared up but i’m still getting hot AC.Only thought i have is Could it possibly be my blendoor being stuck? 97” grand marquis
Brian over in Calais again, i swear youve either got my house bugged or can read my mind. Last night, which was our coldest night ao far, i discovered that all i had was cold air in my 98 town car. Made fir a very unpleasant hour and a half ride. So this morning i start searching for vids about this problem. Adter a few that were less than helpful, i wentcto your channel, and low an behold right near the top is this video.
I shortened a 8mm 1/4" drive socket with a cutoff wheel. This and pulling the dash away by loosening the 10mm on the rt by the kick panel and the 3 screws by the windshield allowed me to get all 3 actuator screws removed and installed.
Glad you "cheated" the blend door Jason--it seems to be the only way to do it. I opted for an OEM door for replacement (I sell Dorman but I figure if the OE lasted 20 plus yrs it was the way to go and it was only an extra $20.00). I've seen plenty of Dorman come back defective.
Ok here's my experience doing this today. Took me over EIGHT hours. It is almost impossible. Worst car job I've ever done. In the end I got to replace the actuator... only to have it blow warm all the time instead of cold (which was the situation before). Sick and tired of it. On the upside I can het through winter, and I also fixed the pistons of the AC control unit (new O rings) so it's blowing from the vents again. That job took an additional two hours. Honestly I wouldn't recommend replacing the actuator. Removing the duct vent took 25 minutes. Putting it back: over an hour. It's not doable. I had to break it and fix it with duct tape.
I removed the unit last night on our 2003 MGM LS in less than 20 minutes after accessing. .But I removed the radio to access the BD from both sides. I used a mirror and a 12" pair of forceps a 1-1/2" piece of 1/8" gas line looped threw a 7mm-8mm ratchet wrench. Just open the forceps and push the hose on one tip then put the hose through the opposite end of the rachet and stick it on the other tip of the forceps and lock closed. Push-pull the forceps once attached to screws to loosen or tighten screws. To install screws put screw threw duct tape sticky side up in rachet then fold over. No dropping screws. This tool can access any hidden fastener as long as the rachet can fit on the screw. Just push pull 1 to multiple clicks of the rachet. No struggle trying to get your hand in there.
Not too easy job to replace the Blend door. Maybe it dont happens with all owners. May friend and I have got a 04 Ford Crown Vic. He has no issue on his Crown Vic. I have replased the accumulator for the AC , the 4 controlboard relays for the headlights, the controlvalve for the steering, and the Low tone for the horns. It was a easy job for me. But did need help to recharge the AC fluid after replace the accumulator. Now I had to use Fluidfilm for the salty road protection. Will buy the Fluidfilm kit with eargun to get the job done.
"Been there, done that" on my 08 LX 3 yrs ago. Wound up doing it pretty much just as you did. Like you said it just takes a little patience and it'll be good to go.
Well, I left work today and the A/C was working great.... suddenly full heat... vent, defrost, all other HVAC functions work, but no cold air. I guess the blend door actuator finally went on my 97 LX.. I'm not looking forward to changing it... watching your video now, I hope a 97 is similar behind the dash!
Another excellent video. Just curious. Since my car will be 21 in Feb, was it possible to manually switch the blend door position by hand once reaching the actuator and keep it just air or heat? My wife’s Taurus had a similar issue but that blend door had a tiny rack and pinion system. The rack lost a tooth and I could simply reach the tiny rack and help push it past the missing tooth and the actuator could take it from there. I just cut the power to the actuator till the next season.
It is possible to switch manually. Just need to reach through the glove box and undo that forward screw, then pry up on the blend door actuator and flip the rod!
I did everything you're doing I replaced the heater core the blend door the thermostat the water pump and the heater control and I still have very little heat what do you think I could do
@OldeCarrGuy I'm a tech in PA. I can't tell you how many parts we got that either was crap out the box or lasted weeks and we had to replace. Compared to the late 90s, 2000s, part quality is CRAP. Why we need more Made in USA. Not cheap as possibly made components and parts.
@@OldeCarrGuy I can hear the blower and I can receive some air but is like if something is closed in the air path I was thinking to replace the blend door actuator located in the glove box
quick question i ran the test and only code that came back was “030” “in car automatic temperature sensor short to ground”. i found where the sensor is at cleaned it up (without removing anything) sensor code cleared up but i’m still getting hot AC.Only thought i have is Could it possibly be my blendoor being stuck?
Short answer, yes! Likely blend door actuator. Long answer, your a/c may not be working. Check your pipes to see if there is condensation on them. If so, then its working and back to the blend door. If no condensation, then you have to look further as to why the a/c isn't working.
What a lovely postion for an actuator... not. Interesting about the way the old one was held in. 20k is close! It might happen quicker if people knew the Yugota was being worked on. We ALL know how everyone is interested in that. ;)
I found that once you get the easy screw out of the actuator, and have dashboard apart and pride away from the firewall go ahead, take your diagonal cutters and cut the tab off the other accessible. Screw proceeded to taking the actuator apart. It just splits in half and you can pall little gears out of there, and then you have access to, the front passenger screw and you won’t break anything. I figured if we’re cutting things might as well cut the old one out it’s gonna get destroyed I wasn’t as lucky as you mine was a battle. Still original factory blend door on 2006 40,000 miles on car There is no way that I could find breaking the two back tabs. I cracked not broke off one of the posts so now my car will probably smell like JB weld for a little while. It’s not a bad crack, but it bugs me anyway I enjoy your videos. There’s not a whole lot of BS in them. Thanks a lot. Buster Florida
Okay, what if the air isn't coming out of the vents with any pressure? - I turn on the A/C, I can hear it click on (the compressor) and *if* you're driving, you can feel cold air blowing faintly thru the vests with no pressure behind it... the A/C is cold, but there's no pressure putting it out. Any idea what this is? Is this the blend door as well?
Is the fan speed changing with the dial? If not then you likely have a bad blower motor resistor or blower motor. I did a video on each of those! If the fan speed is changing then you may have a blockage in your vents (mouse nest) or the vents may actually be in the close position!
As I mentioned, it likely is the controller. But I would take it to a reputable garage to have them diagnose it for you 100%. I would not recommend the Ford dealer as they will condemn everything and you will pay through the nose and still likely not have a fixed car!
@@OldeCarrGuylast question. Why do you say it’s most likely the controller?? Thanks so much for your help. I’ve been getting a lot of different possibilities and want to narrow it down to what makes the most sense.
@@jerrynorth8335 I say that because it is the heart of your HVAC system. Inside there are O-rings that work on valves that run under vacuum when those O-rings fail, they will cause the system to inadvertently switch between hot and cold, back-and-forth. On the back of those devices, there is a rubber manifold that plugs into the back that is operated by vacuum. It is possible that it is out of place or plugged. There are ways to test the lines if you have a hand operated vacuum pump and nowhere each line goes.
There's another one of these gadgets in the dash that controls, floor, vent, defrost, etc. It also has a habit of failing. Mostly because the guts of these modules have plastic gears that simply are too weak for the operation that is needed.
Get this craziness: My blend door is loose and it flips to a/c every time I make a hard left turn, and then it flips to heat when making a hard right. It’s nuts and I’ve been driving like this for several years now lol.
Curious, I recently changed out the EATC unit (2006 MGM) because the air stopped blowing from the vents, only the defrost. I changed it out, bingo it all worked again and was blowing ice cubes once more. But, maybe 2 weeks later, suddenly the horrible knocking sound and my AC is gone, only heat. I thought I heard in one of these videos it's all vacuumed controlled. Did I mess up the first repair to cause this new one? I know it's the dreaded blend door problem but wondering if it's just a coincidence or related.
Crap :) Are all these panther cars the same? Is it 100% that if I took out the airbag and the plastic tubing, I will have access to this part. I live in AZ and all I care about is AC. These videos make this seem very doable. Remove the one corner screw, pry it up enough to move that metal rod and leave power disconnected to actuator. The AC would run forever then, supposedly. True? @@OldeCarrGuy
I am not a super handy car person so just the thought of doing any of this is a bit intimidating. And at this point, just want AC since I never use the heat anyway. But paying another 1K for this is unacceptable after doing it 2 years ago. Thanks for your help. @@OldeCarrGuy
Well, am close to giving up. #1, I cannot get that top screw out for the vent on the right. I can touch it but I just cant grab it to turn. #2 my car does not look like all these videos. I took the glove compartment out, airbag out but now I see the plastic duct but on the left side appears to be this black plastic covering. So, even if I get the vent and duct out, that area is encased in some hard shell black plastic. So frustrating!@@OldeCarrGuy
There is a blend door actuator that controls this as well, but not the one I'm showing in this video. If you have the automatic climate control, you may be having a controller issue. Best to do the self test to see which code it's giving you!
@@OldeCarrGuy I did some trouble shooting & I determined the temperature actuator works, it’s the dashboard vent & the floor vent that does not work. My car is a Police Inspector 2007 & the HVAC is the basic 3 dials. Do you think that’s what failed or is there another actuator? Thank you & Hooray for Canada 🇨🇦 from Detroit - your neighbor to the north.
@@FrancisJFoxeven with the basic controls of the police cars, the switching of vents is still controlled by blend door actuators and vacuum from the controls. You could have a vacuum leak or the actual control switch itself may be faulty.
Eh, thanks buddy - I’ll let ya know how it goes :) I’m gonna wait till it gets a little warmer Keep up the great content & thanks for the instruction video.
We watch “how to“ videos to see all things necessary to complete the task. The really good videos show the “actual“ removal of ALL parts that must be removed to get at the item in question. Watch South Main Auto as an example. Thanks
Thanks for the constructive criticism! I have never claimed to be a "HOW TO" channel. I figure if you're inclined to attempt the job by watching a TH-cam video, you can get to the heart of the job without needing to be told to open the car door! lol
The really good videos are the ones that get the job done and save you time and headache. If you wana see everything little thing come apart you are just adding unnecessary steps
@@OldeCarrGuy lol that doesn't help me. Iv watched videos upon videos and nobody shows what's going on with mine. Don't have the cash to put it in a shop
It’s literally just a flap! If it doesn’t move, then there must be something holding it. Get a mirror and a flashlight and see if there’s an obstruction!
There must be something aftermarket in the car. The only chimes these cars had was for seat belts, lights and key in ignition. Only other thing is models with digital dashboard had different warning tones like low fuel, low washer fluid etc!
Just wait till you have to remove the dash to get the whole plenum box out , because the flap inside it broke , giving you no defrost and no heat , just out of the vents ... Fun times...
Why you was putting a blend door in and you was that far in you should have replaced the heater core you fix the blend door now watch the heater core go out on you that's the way it works
Do away with this gadget and hook a push pull cable to the metal door thingamagiggy. Then you can push in for cold, or pull out for hot. These things are notorious for going bad and you'll be replacing it again before you know it.
I have replaced a lot of these units professionally. Just remove the airbag and vent like you showed.
Remove the radio. Work with 2 hands one through the radio hole and the airbag hole. I bent a offset on a 8MM wrench box end. You need the offset to get the screw close to the firewall. You can remove all 4 screws with the wrench. I only put two screws back in. That's all it needs to hold it in place. I only use motorcraft part. The aftermarket ones don't last. I can do this job in 2 hours. Book allows 12 hours. Hope this helps.
This is an awesome idea, thanks for the info, gotta do this on mine, will definitely save me whenever I have to do one professionally
@@backnine install rear screw partially, cut the rear tab on actuator so it slips under that screw. I have a thin ratchet set I can tighten it with.
That’s how I did my actuator. I just ended up breaking the tabs on the back two screws and then loosen to the screws. And then with the new actuator, I cut the two back tabs and then only used the two front screws to hold it into place and it works just fine but my problem is the actuator didn’t solve my issue lol
@@davieboy1970 Did you end up finding the issue after all?
@davieboy1970 same here. I did it today. Took me 8 hours from start to finish. Couldn't get the radio out so was working from one side (air bag side). Replaced the actuator. Now it's blowing warm instead of cold like it did before. Sigh.
Good that you did this for the Mrs. Happy wife, happy life!
I live in the southern US and only need heat a few months each year. There's no way I'm going through all that to replace my blend door. I'll pull the glove box out twice a year and switch it back and forth manually. I already have manual valves on my heater hoses.
We measure cold in months up here! Lol
When I had my CVPI, I looked into this. I read that the taxi company mechanics got so good at fixing these, they could bang it out in 45 minutes! It was suggested to go and talk to them, and work out a deal to get them to do your own.
Just like everything, with practice comes perfection.
Worked perfect! I cut a small piece out of the dash in front of the defrost vent. I was able to fit 1/4" extension down to get the back bolt closest to the steering wheel. Broke the front two off by prying up. Slotted the new one and wala! The old one broke off around the screw. I took a sawzall blade and cut it towards the screw until the plastic was worn away.
Thank you so much for posting this. It helped a bunch!!
Congratulations. Very helpful. I dread the day when I have to do this.
You can do it!
@@OldeCarrGuyi think i have that Rob Schneider motivational poster too !
If your door is stuck, often you can do the self test and it breaks the door loose. It's temporary, and sometimes you have to run the test a few times, ( you'll get a code 025 and 024 most likely), it'll work for a while When you have extreme temps, it's worth a try. Got a 2010 Grand Marquis and have used that quickie several times. Nothing to lose. Takes less than two minutes and it could work in a pinch.
self test group chat - activated !
quick question i ran the test and only code that came back was “030” “in car automatic temperature sensor short to ground”. i found where the sensor is at cleaned it up (without removing) anything sensor cleared up but i’m still getting hot AC.Only thought i have is Could it possibly be my blendoor being stuck? 97” grand marquis
The easy way is a class action lawsuit!
We should demand a recall to have them fix this nightmare for free! Bastards!
It's good to see someone else struggling with this amazing engineering design.
Great video! I'm getting ready to tackle this in my 2010 Grand Marquis. Love this series.
Thanks Jeff!
Best video of how to fix this problem. Thank you.
Thanks Robert!
I don’t even have a panther car but this was a good learning video. Sir you have so much patience I respect it! Much respect 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@OldeCarrGuy 😊
I had to use the same method in my 99. Mercury just had my blend door in my 07 town car go going to do the same thing, thank you.
Brian over in Calais again, i swear youve either got my house bugged or can read my mind. Last night, which was our coldest night ao far, i discovered that all i had was cold air in my 98 town car. Made fir a very unpleasant hour and a half ride.
So this morning i start searching for vids about this problem. Adter a few that were less than helpful, i wentcto your channel, and low an behold right near the top is this video.
Awesome! Hope it helps!
Yes sir! I have changed this part twice, Dorman is a up grade, and the last time I changed it I only utilized the two up front screws!
I shortened a 8mm 1/4" drive socket with a cutoff wheel. This and pulling the dash away by loosening the 10mm on the rt by the kick panel and the 3 screws by the windshield allowed me to get all 3 actuator screws removed and installed.
Good job Jason 👍 Sharing to My Vic Club so they know.
Thanks Robert!
That looks like a load of fun. Good job and educational
Should be able to do it quicker next time! 😂
Glad you "cheated" the blend door Jason--it seems to be the only way to do it. I opted for an OEM door for replacement (I sell Dorman but I figure if the OE lasted 20 plus yrs it was the way to go and it was only an extra $20.00). I've seen plenty of Dorman come back defective.
You may be right but it's done now!
Excellent video - thank you!
You are most welcome!
Ok here's my experience doing this today. Took me over EIGHT hours. It is almost impossible. Worst car job I've ever done. In the end I got to replace the actuator... only to have it blow warm all the time instead of cold (which was the situation before). Sick and tired of it. On the upside I can het through winter, and I also fixed the pistons of the AC control unit (new O rings) so it's blowing from the vents again. That job took an additional two hours. Honestly I wouldn't recommend replacing the actuator. Removing the duct vent took 25 minutes. Putting it back: over an hour. It's not doable. I had to break it and fix it with duct tape.
I removed the unit last night on our 2003 MGM LS in less than 20 minutes after accessing. .But I removed the radio to access the BD from both sides. I used a mirror and a 12" pair of forceps a 1-1/2" piece of 1/8" gas line looped threw a 7mm-8mm ratchet wrench. Just open the forceps and push the hose on one tip then put the hose through the opposite end of the rachet and stick it on the other tip of the forceps and lock closed. Push-pull the forceps once attached to screws to loosen or tighten screws. To install screws put screw threw duct tape sticky side up in rachet then fold over. No dropping screws. This tool can access any hidden fastener as long as the rachet can fit on the screw. Just push pull 1 to multiple clicks of the rachet. No struggle trying to get your hand in there.
Not too easy job to replace the Blend door. Maybe it dont happens with all owners. May friend and I have got a 04 Ford Crown Vic. He has no issue on his Crown Vic. I have replased the accumulator for the AC , the 4 controlboard relays for the headlights, the controlvalve for the steering, and the Low tone for the horns. It was a easy job for me. But did need help to recharge the AC fluid after replace the accumulator. Now I had to use Fluidfilm for the salty road protection. Will buy the Fluidfilm kit with eargun to get the job done.
6:51 I kept wondering if you removed the stereo if that would give any better access
Unfortunately the ducting is directly behind the radio.
well darn! I've seen others utilize that break off the tab partially method and it seems to work so if I ever have to do this fix I may do that too
Thank you for the help
No problem, glad I could help!
"Been there, done that" on my 08 LX 3 yrs ago. Wound up doing it pretty much just as you did. Like you said it just takes a little patience and it'll be good to go.
Right on
1 like = 1 engineer removed from ford motor company
Well, I left work today and the A/C was working great.... suddenly full heat... vent, defrost, all other HVAC functions work, but no cold air. I guess the blend door actuator finally went on my 97 LX.. I'm not looking forward to changing it... watching your video now, I hope a 97 is similar behind the dash!
Best of luck my friend!
It's easier than what u have done, u did it the hard way.
There is no easy way without hacking!
Another excellent video. Just curious. Since my car will be 21 in Feb, was it possible to manually switch the blend door position by hand once reaching the actuator and keep it just air or heat? My wife’s Taurus had a similar issue but that blend door had a tiny rack and pinion system. The rack lost a tooth and I could simply reach the tiny rack and help push it past the missing tooth and the actuator could take it from there. I just cut the power to the actuator till the next season.
It is possible to switch manually. Just need to reach through the glove box and undo that forward screw, then pry up on the blend door actuator and flip the rod!
I did everything you're doing I replaced the heater core the blend door the thermostat the water pump and the heater control and I still have very little heat what do you think I could do
Sounds like a classic bad thermostat. Even though you replaced it I’d grab another one. They are common failures even out of the box.
@OldeCarrGuy I'm a tech in PA. I can't tell you how many parts we got that either was crap out the box or lasted weeks and we had to replace. Compared to the late 90s, 2000s, part quality is CRAP. Why we need more Made in USA. Not cheap as possibly made components and parts.
mine is just not blowing air but is cold and hot so the problem is the other actuator?
Could be your blower motor or blower motor resistor!
@@OldeCarrGuy I can hear the blower and I can receive some air but is like if something is closed in the air path I was thinking to replace the blend door actuator located in the glove box
quick question i ran the test and only code that came back was “030” “in car automatic temperature sensor short to ground”. i found where the sensor is at cleaned it up (without removing anything) sensor code cleared up but i’m still getting hot AC.Only thought i have is Could it possibly be my blendoor being stuck?
Short answer, yes! Likely blend door actuator. Long answer, your a/c may not be working. Check your pipes to see if there is condensation on them. If so, then its working and back to the blend door. If no condensation, then you have to look further as to why the a/c isn't working.
What a lovely postion for an actuator... not.
Interesting about the way the old one was held in.
20k is close! It might happen quicker if people knew the Yugota was being worked on. We ALL know how everyone is interested in that. ;)
Yes Joe! I get it! lol
Just razzin' ya. I know what it's like to have a lot to do.
mine is sounding pretty creaky right now. I suspect it wont be long.
Get at'er!
I found that once you get the easy screw out of the actuator, and have dashboard apart and pride away from the firewall go ahead, take your diagonal cutters and cut the tab off the other accessible. Screw proceeded to taking the actuator apart. It just splits in half and you can pall little gears out of there, and then you have access to, the front passenger screw and you won’t break anything. I figured if we’re cutting things might as well cut the old one out it’s gonna get destroyed I wasn’t as lucky as you mine was a battle. Still original factory blend door on 2006 40,000 miles on car There is no way that I could find breaking the two back tabs. I cracked not broke off one of the posts so now my car will probably smell like JB weld for a little while. It’s not a bad crack, but it bugs me anyway I enjoy your videos. There’s not a whole lot of BS in them. Thanks a lot.
Buster
Florida
Thanks for the information and for watching my stuff.
Very nice car!But what about Yugo and race with Kompa from Kompas Garage?
Update in the next video!
Okay, what if the air isn't coming out of the vents with any pressure? - I turn on the A/C, I can hear it click on (the compressor) and *if* you're driving, you can feel cold air blowing faintly thru the vests with no pressure behind it... the A/C is cold, but there's no pressure putting it out. Any idea what this is? Is this the blend door as well?
Is the fan speed changing with the dial? If not then you likely have a bad blower motor resistor or blower motor. I did a video on each of those! If the fan speed is changing then you may have a blockage in your vents (mouse nest) or the vents may actually be in the close position!
th-cam.com/video/AybixXC6Y_8/w-d-xo.html
What if you’re getting hot and cold air? It’s January and I’ll have the heat on and all of a sudden it swaps to cool and back to hot again. Thanks!!!
That's more apt to be the AC HEATER CONTROL 6W7H-19C933-AA. Check that part number on ebay to see if it matches yours
I need to take it to get it diagnosed so I know for sure. I have the automatic control like the vehicle in this video. 2011. Suggestions??
As I mentioned, it likely is the controller. But I would take it to a reputable garage to have them diagnose it for you 100%. I would not recommend the Ford dealer as they will condemn everything and you will pay through the nose and still likely not have a fixed car!
@@OldeCarrGuylast question. Why do you say it’s most likely the controller?? Thanks so much for your help. I’ve been getting a lot of different possibilities and want to narrow it down to what makes the most sense.
@@jerrynorth8335 I say that because it is the heart of your HVAC system. Inside there are O-rings that work on valves that run under vacuum when those O-rings fail, they will cause the system to inadvertently switch between hot and cold, back-and-forth. On the back of those devices, there is a rubber manifold that plugs into the back that is operated by vacuum. It is possible that it is out of place or plugged. There are ways to test the lines if you have a hand operated vacuum pump and nowhere each line goes.
There's another one of these gadgets in the dash that controls, floor, vent, defrost, etc. It also has a habit of failing. Mostly because the guts of these modules have plastic gears that simply are too weak for the operation that is needed.
Get this craziness: My blend door is loose and it flips to a/c every time I make a hard left turn, and then it flips to heat when making a hard right. It’s nuts and I’ve been driving like this for several years now lol.
Sounds like the plastic tab is physically broken.
@@OldeCarrGuyI bet you’re right. Maybe one day I’ll get motivated enough to find out :)
seems like if the missus is cold you need to make a hard right
So…. It looks like I can just take that air bag out and manually move that lever and just leave it on cold year round ?
BASICALLY YES!
Does anyone know what the problem might be when the blend door works but my air won’t switch to the front defroster??
There is a self test to see what errors you may have. www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3670978
Curious, I recently changed out the EATC unit (2006 MGM) because the air stopped blowing from the vents, only the defrost. I changed it out, bingo it all worked again and was blowing ice cubes once more. But, maybe 2 weeks later, suddenly the horrible knocking sound and my AC is gone, only heat. I thought I heard in one of these videos it's all vacuumed controlled. Did I mess up the first repair to cause this new one? I know it's the dreaded blend door problem but wondering if it's just a coincidence or related.
Sounds completely coincidental to me. But yes, it's blend door time.
Crap :) Are all these panther cars the same? Is it 100% that if I took out the airbag and the plastic tubing, I will have access to this part. I live in AZ and all I care about is AC. These videos make this seem very doable. Remove the one corner screw, pry it up enough to move that metal rod and leave power disconnected to actuator. The AC would run forever then, supposedly. True? @@OldeCarrGuy
100% Correct! Slide the rod to the side and you’re good! but if you’re going that far, the rest of the job isn’t too bad.
I am not a super handy car person so just the thought of doing any of this is a bit intimidating. And at this point, just want AC since I never use the heat anyway. But paying another 1K for this is unacceptable after doing it 2 years ago. Thanks for your help. @@OldeCarrGuy
Well, am close to giving up. #1, I cannot get that top screw out for the vent on the right. I can touch it but I just cant grab it to turn. #2 my car does not look like all these videos. I took the glove compartment out, airbag out but now I see the plastic duct but on the left side appears to be this black plastic covering. So, even if I get the vent and duct out, that area is encased in some hard shell black plastic. So frustrating!@@OldeCarrGuy
My 07 only blows thru the AC vent, not the floor - will this fix it?
There is a blend door actuator that controls this as well, but not the one I'm showing in this video. If you have the automatic climate control, you may be having a controller issue. Best to do the self test to see which code it's giving you!
Gotcha ~ thank ya kindly ..
@@OldeCarrGuy I did some trouble shooting & I determined the temperature actuator works, it’s the dashboard vent & the floor vent that does not work. My car is a Police Inspector 2007 & the HVAC is the basic 3 dials. Do you think that’s what failed or is there another actuator? Thank you & Hooray for Canada 🇨🇦 from Detroit - your neighbor to the north.
@@FrancisJFoxeven with the basic controls of the police cars, the switching of vents is still controlled by blend door actuators and vacuum from the controls. You could have a vacuum leak or the actual control switch itself may be faulty.
Eh, thanks buddy - I’ll let ya know how it goes :) I’m gonna wait till it gets a little warmer
Keep up the great content & thanks for the instruction video.
We watch “how to“
videos to see all things necessary to complete the task. The really good videos show the “actual“ removal of ALL parts that must be removed to get at the item in question. Watch South Main Auto as an example. Thanks
Thanks for the constructive criticism! I have never claimed to be a "HOW TO" channel. I figure if you're inclined to attempt the job by watching a TH-cam video, you can get to the heart of the job without needing to be told to open the car door! lol
The really good videos are the ones that get the job done and save you time and headache. If you wana see everything little thing come apart you are just adding unnecessary steps
Can somebody tell me what kind of rim those are
2009 Mustang GT
So what if you got the one out and go to connect a new one and the bar does not move with it on what do i do then
Fix the bar and you’ll be fine!
@@OldeCarrGuy lol that doesn't help me. Iv watched videos upon videos and nobody shows what's going on with mine. Don't have the cash to put it in a shop
It’s literally just a flap! If it doesn’t move, then there must be something holding it. Get a mirror and a flashlight and see if there’s an obstruction!
No obstruction.
@@securitygal Did you remove the blend door actuator and try moving the rod manually? It should move freely with your fingers.
You're going to have to do everything I did is take out the seats the steering column and the dash
Does any one know what that beeping sound is & how to turn it off
Beeping? Is your key in the ignition?
@@OldeCarrGuy when i start the car it beeps but not like when th key is in the ignition
There must be something aftermarket in the car. The only chimes these cars had was for seat belts, lights and key in ignition. Only other thing is models with digital dashboard had different warning tones like low fuel, low washer fluid etc!
Just wait till you have to remove the dash to get the whole plenum box out , because the flap inside it broke , giving you no defrost and no heat , just out of the vents ... Fun times...
Great!
i just got my first car 2000 MGM LS and my defroster doesn’t work do you think it would be this?
@@mason2x862 does all the air come out of the vents and nothing from the defrost or heat settings ? And don’t have manual or auto control panel ?
@@mason2x862 I don't think so. Your vent controls are controlled by vacuum through your climate control switch.
been putting off changing the blend door actuator mine is stuck in heat
Now you have an idea of how to change it!
😇👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why you was putting a blend door in and you was that far in you should have replaced the heater core you fix the blend door now watch the heater core go out on you that's the way it works
Do you understand just how big of a job a heater core is? It’s not just something you do for regular maintenance! You do it because it failed!
Do away with this gadget and hook a push pull cable to the metal door thingamagiggy. Then you can push in for cold, or pull out for hot. These things are notorious for going bad and you'll be replacing it again before you know it.