You would probably succeeded with the Copper washers if you anneal them, red hot and quench in water. You need help! The tyre would not come off because it was not down in the well of the rim the opposite side! If you push the bead down into the well you would have got that off easily, you will see that putting the new tyre on it was sitting down in the well, which made it easy to get even a new tyre into place.
I did consider annealing the washers but wasn't sure it would work as the copper is so thin on a washer. will try in future if the fibres start leaking or become loose again. With the rear tyre maybe thats a good point if i had somehow managed to push the opposite side down into the well but i had the clamp things holding onto the tyre. I undid the nuts and bashed them with a hammer they didnt move, obviously limited swing of the hammer with spokes hub in the way. They had kinda glued themselves to the inside of the tyre. Also the old firestone tyre was smaller diameter bead to bead for some reason. Not sure if over time it shrinks or what but to new tyre yes easy to get on. But it was still a nightmare getting the clamps in position and the rim tape over the clamps and then getting the valve from the inner tube to get through the hole in the rim was near impossible. Only ever changed one tyre before with levers. was again a total nightmare. pinched the tube when installing the new tyre had to take it all off again.
Wow, seems like the season for fuel leaks....friend with a Commando had a cracked fuel tank leaking, I had the carb banjo spigot crack and break off on my Commando last week. Luckily the MSS is holding its fuel in....a good thing on a bike with a velocity stack intake....a bit of back fire can ignite spilled fuel easily. I really should re-fit the stock air box back on or figure out a flame arrestor grill for the stack. I think the copper crush washers just cannot be flattened enough on the banjo fitting....likely squashing the banjo before the crush washer can seal. I've had good results with rubberized Dowty washers on carb fititngs, also a brand called Stat-o-Seal has good following for bike carbs. Could you drill a hole through the carb banjo cap, across one vertex of the hex section, to pass a locking wire through the secure it from coming loose? Perhaps a modern thread locking adhesive (LocTite blue medium strength) would help. That stuff is fuel proof.
i did consider trying to drill a hole through one of the hex tips but the inside is drilled out quite big so not sure how much metal i got before i would be creaking a leak from the hole. I did consider a loctite glue but iam unsure of any that are really good with fuel. I was going to use 577 but this is i think diesel proof but not petrol. Also when i need to get it off only thing that works is heating it up. I shall have to research the blue medium you mentioned as i feel it just needs something. Its possible when ive been over tightening it to keep it from happening the threads have become loose not sure. But i feel the rubber hoses move a lot with the vibration and just make that long cross section banjo bit come loose as it has quite some leverage on it and its only secured by that one round cap. As this has happened to me at least once before on this bike i do need a solution as when the fuel start flowing out its really fast gushing out. If its not raining tomorrow iam taking it to the kickback show, a real nice bike event so hopefully ktt behaves but its not far at all. the ride that gave me these two issues was around 115 miles so good speed and bad roads make for a few issues i guess.
You would probably succeeded with the Copper washers if you anneal them, red hot and quench in water. You need help! The tyre would not come off because it was not down in the well of the rim the opposite side! If you push the bead down into the well you would have got that off easily, you will see that putting the new tyre on it was sitting down in the well, which made it easy to get even a new tyre into place.
I did consider annealing the washers but wasn't sure it would work as the copper is so thin on a washer. will try in future if the fibres start leaking or become loose again.
With the rear tyre maybe thats a good point if i had somehow managed to push the opposite side down into the well but i had the clamp things holding onto the tyre. I undid the nuts and bashed them with a hammer they didnt move, obviously limited swing of the hammer with spokes hub in the way.
They had kinda glued themselves to the inside of the tyre.
Also the old firestone tyre was smaller diameter bead to bead for some reason. Not sure if over time it shrinks or what but to new tyre yes easy to get on. But it was still a nightmare getting the clamps in position and the rim tape over the clamps and then getting the valve from the inner tube to get through the hole in the rim was near impossible.
Only ever changed one tyre before with levers. was again a total nightmare. pinched the tube when installing the new tyre had to take it all off again.
Wow, seems like the season for fuel leaks....friend with a Commando had a cracked fuel tank leaking, I had the carb banjo spigot crack and break off on my Commando last week. Luckily the MSS is holding its fuel in....a good thing on a bike with a velocity stack intake....a bit of back fire can ignite spilled fuel easily. I really should re-fit the stock air box back on or figure out a flame arrestor grill for the stack.
I think the copper crush washers just cannot be flattened enough on the banjo fitting....likely squashing the banjo before the crush washer can seal. I've had good results with rubberized Dowty washers on carb fititngs, also a brand called Stat-o-Seal has good following for bike carbs. Could you drill a hole through the carb banjo cap, across one vertex of the hex section, to pass a locking wire through the secure it from coming loose? Perhaps a modern thread locking adhesive (LocTite blue medium strength) would help. That stuff is fuel proof.
i did consider trying to drill a hole through one of the hex tips but the inside is drilled out quite big so not sure how much metal i got before i would be creaking a leak from the hole. I did consider a loctite glue but iam unsure of any that are really good with fuel. I was going to use 577 but this is i think diesel proof but not petrol. Also when i need to get it off only thing that works is heating it up. I shall have to research the blue medium you mentioned as i feel it just needs something. Its possible when ive been over tightening it to keep it from happening the threads have become loose not sure. But i feel the rubber hoses move a lot with the vibration and just make that long cross section banjo bit come loose as it has quite some leverage on it and its only secured by that one round cap.
As this has happened to me at least once before on this bike i do need a solution as when the fuel start flowing out its really fast gushing out.
If its not raining tomorrow iam taking it to the kickback show, a real nice bike event so hopefully ktt behaves but its not far at all. the ride that gave me these two issues was around 115 miles so good speed and bad roads make for a few issues i guess.