On my LS swapped 82 I went with stock manifolds into 2.5 pipe to rumble mufflers and slashcut tips welded to the end of the mufflers and turned down 2ft before the rear. It's not obnoxiously loud but I've got a lot of drone. Gotta fix that soon. I also did a the lokar shift linkage. Wish I had went with stock Squrebody shift linkage. When I pull it down to 1st and stomp on it. It shifts out on me. No spring to absorb engine flex. The lokar rod is a solid mount.
I’ve been thinking about some of the thrush hush mufflers, the ones I have on it now are like stock style mufflers and one of them leaks now of course haha. It shouldn’t be too hard to find the stock shift linkage and modify it to work. Shouldn’t have any issues with it coming out of first gear. The Lokar seemed hit and miss, glad to know another issue they have. Thanks for watching man!
I ran the trans lines from the transmission to the front like the donor had them, just along the engine. Then one went up to the radiator, the other went to the external cooler in the front so the lines went between the radiator and the front cross-member. Had to kind of finagle them and bend the lines a little to clear but they are secured with p-clamps.
I'm doing a 84 c10 using doner trans cooler and trans lines do you have the part number for radiator fittings that connect to trans lines thanks . And thanks for your videos they have been a big help this is my first ls swap
I used the Dorman 800-604, you can get them from Amazon or Oreillys. The thread pitch is a little different, I think the radiator has a straight thread, the fitting is a tapered thread. I just did a tight wrap or two of thread tape and thread it on there. Just be careful not to over due it, I feel like the fitting would break easily. Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!
My Circut Connector only has 1 through 18. For 1980 C10 schematics !! I have And extra connector and I'm looking at it and see the tan and white wire and schematics is reading tan and white wire to the fuel gauge tank unit. Please advise
Looking at my Chilton's manual it says the tan/white does go to the sending unit. So that should be wire you will splice into from you sending unit. Just ground the sending unit to the chassis.
@@cwsgarage good morning CW, just wanted to let you know that I'm still having difficulty. I had a few gauge and fuel gauges sitting around and I'm trying to test out and the ceramic resistors . I found one that is working. Now , I have power to fuse block. I turn the ignition to on. The fuel gauge reads empty. Now with the ignition on and I when turn on the headlights, the fuel gauge needle goes to 3/4 tank full. What's going on? Please advise also I remove all wiring from passenger tank and only using the driver side tank. I could drive the truck for a day to see if the gauge is working. Turning on headlights in the morning and see where the needle is at. If it does move to 1/2 then do you think the problem lies in sending unit or ground to the unit itself.?
I remove the ground wire from the gas tank sending unit , it looks corroded. Hopefully that the problem. I didn't drop the tank just had to bend the tabs around the gas tank, to get my arm in there. I'll keep you posted
@@cwsgarage couldn't solve the problem cw. Thinking about buying a new harness for the original stock on the truck. Do you have any vendors u recommend? My last harness was from hot rod wires. But the wires didn't have printed labels on the wires, just paper tags which torn up. besides that's my first time I wire a truck.
Cw how's everything going? I haven't got to my wiring yet. Been doing honey do list. Anyway I was checking my instrument panel #17 schematics and my calls for the color tan & white goes to the fuel gauge tank unit . Which the tan & white is pig tail color # 17 connector that goes into the cluster. And there's another tan wire that is splice into the tan & white wire. The tan wire runs all the way to the fuel sending unit. Should I splice the tan wire and then ground the wire from there?
You just need a ground at the fuel sending unit to the chassis and that sending unit tan/white should just connect at the cluster pigtail. Did you truck have dual tanks originally?
CW, I have a 1980 C10 Big Ten Silverado 350 SBC.I PURCHASED A NEW WIRING HARNESS WAY BACK. I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH FUEL GAUGE NOT WORKING. MY TRUCK IS A EVERYDAY WORK TRUCK. NOTHING FANCY. ALL STOCK. I GOT A NEW PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD AND I CHECK THE RESISTORS ON THE FUEL GAUGE AND GETTING 90 OHMS. FOR SOME REASON I CAN'T GET THE FUEL GAUGE TO WORK. HOW DO I GROUND THE GAUGE CLUSTER. ALSO I HAVE A NEW GAS TANK AND SENDING UNIT. I CAN SEE THAT MY GROUND TO MY TANK IS CONNECTED. IT SO CONFUSING FOR ME, PLEASE ADVISE HOW TO GET IT BACK IN WORKING CONDITION. THANK YOU ROBERT DELAO
Hey Robert, are you sure the actual gauge it’s self is working? You should be able to verify if the sending unit is getting the signal to the cluster with a multimeter. I haven’t messed with the printed circuits on these clusters before. I imagine you have a diagram showing which wires are which with the new circuit board? I can look at some diagrams in the morning and see if I can figure out which wire on the connector should be the ground. I’m located outside of Dallas.
Thanks CW, I really appreciate your time and help. The old harness was the factory harness. I remove it and the bulkhead component. It's trash long time ago. So I bought a 12 circuit harness .just basic circuits. No power windows or anything like that. The truck runs , has lights etc but can't figure out the fuel gauge. Anyway thanks again for your help. Looking forward to see if you know what's going on. Thanks again. ROBERT
@@robertdelao9201 Did you use the stock connector going into the instrument cluster though and just splice into it? I can't see how else you would be able to connect to the factory instruments otherwise. It looks like the top right wire of the connector going to the printed cable would be the ground circuit, originally a black wire. If it wasn't grounded though the lights wouldn't work I wouldn't think. It looks like the sending unit wire would go to the bottom left on the cluster and the 3rd one down on the right side of the connector. Here is a link to the wiring on the printed circuit. Look at #30 was originally a pink wire that connected in two place. www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/77-80_instrument_pg1.jpg www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/77-80_instrument_pg2.jpg
@@cwsgarage CW,your taking about the instrument gauge cluster pig tail ? That snaps into the back of the cluster itself? Do u mean that I get a ground wire and splice the tan wire and put the tan and the ground together and hook the ground to sheet metal.?
It’s getting close!! Keep it up Dub.
Thanks Frizzle! It’s a struggle sometimes. I’ll holler at you about tomorrow.
On my LS swapped 82 I went with stock manifolds into 2.5 pipe to rumble mufflers and slashcut tips welded to the end of the mufflers and turned down 2ft before the rear. It's not obnoxiously loud but I've got a lot of drone. Gotta fix that soon. I also did a the lokar shift linkage. Wish I had went with stock Squrebody shift linkage. When I pull it down to 1st and stomp on it. It shifts out on me. No spring to absorb engine flex. The lokar rod is a solid mount.
I’ve been thinking about some of the thrush hush mufflers, the ones I have on it now are like stock style mufflers and one of them leaks now of course haha. It shouldn’t be too hard to find the stock shift linkage and modify it to work. Shouldn’t have any issues with it coming out of first gear. The Lokar seemed hit and miss, glad to know another issue they have. Thanks for watching man!
keep up the good work!
Thank you! I would consider it mediocre work lol. I appreciate you watching.
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Lookin’ good CeeDub! Hey I may have a spare factory shift indicator plate that shows: OD-D-2-1. Let me know if you need one!
Thank you sir! That is very kind of you man, I might have to take you up on that!
Nice job! How did the trans lines go in ? I t appears they were laying on top of the frame ? Is that correct?
I ran the trans lines from the transmission to the front like the donor had them, just along the engine. Then one went up to the radiator, the other went to the external cooler in the front so the lines went between the radiator and the front cross-member. Had to kind of finagle them and bend the lines a little to clear but they are secured with p-clamps.
@@cwsgarage Thanks. I am just about at that point on mine!
I'm doing a 84 c10 using doner trans cooler and trans lines do you have the part number for radiator fittings that connect to trans lines thanks . And thanks for your videos they have been a big help this is my first ls swap
I used the Dorman 800-604, you can get them from Amazon or Oreillys. The thread pitch is a little different, I think the radiator has a straight thread, the fitting is a tapered thread. I just did a tight wrap or two of thread tape and thread it on there. Just be careful not to over due it, I feel like the fitting would break easily. Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!
My Circut Connector only has 1 through 18. For 1980 C10 schematics !! I have And extra connector and I'm looking at it and see the tan and white wire and schematics is reading tan and white wire to the fuel gauge tank unit. Please advise
Looking at my Chilton's manual it says the tan/white does go to the sending unit. So that should be wire you will splice into from you sending unit. Just ground the sending unit to the chassis.
@@cwsgarage good morning CW, just wanted to let you know that I'm still having difficulty. I had a few gauge and fuel gauges sitting around and I'm trying to test out and the ceramic resistors . I found one that is working. Now , I have power to fuse block. I turn the ignition to on. The fuel gauge reads empty. Now with the ignition on and I when turn on the headlights, the fuel gauge needle goes to 3/4 tank full. What's going on? Please advise also I remove all wiring from passenger tank and only using the driver side tank. I could drive the truck for a day to see if the gauge is working. Turning on headlights in the morning and see where the needle is at. If it does move to 1/2 then do you think the problem lies in sending unit or ground to the unit itself.?
I remove the ground wire from the gas tank sending unit , it looks corroded. Hopefully that the problem. I didn't drop the tank just had to bend the tabs around the gas tank, to get my arm in there. I'll keep you posted
@@robertdelao9201 It does sound like a ground issue at the sending unit. Weird that the lights will cause it to fluctuate.
@@cwsgarage couldn't solve the problem cw. Thinking about buying a new harness for the original stock on the truck. Do you have any vendors u recommend? My last harness was from hot rod wires. But the wires didn't have printed labels on the wires, just paper tags which torn up. besides that's my first time I wire a truck.
Cw how's everything going? I haven't got to my wiring yet. Been doing honey do list. Anyway I was checking my instrument panel #17 schematics and my calls for the color tan & white goes to the fuel gauge tank unit . Which the tan & white is pig tail color # 17 connector that goes into the cluster. And there's another tan wire that is splice into the tan & white wire. The tan wire runs all the way to the fuel sending unit. Should I splice the tan wire and then ground the wire from there?
You just need a ground at the fuel sending unit to the chassis and that sending unit tan/white should just connect at the cluster pigtail. Did you truck have dual tanks originally?
@@cwsgarage yes it has dual tanks and only the driver side is in working condition.
CW, I have a 1980 C10 Big Ten Silverado 350 SBC.I PURCHASED A NEW WIRING HARNESS WAY BACK. I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH FUEL GAUGE NOT WORKING. MY TRUCK IS A EVERYDAY WORK TRUCK. NOTHING FANCY. ALL STOCK. I GOT A NEW PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD AND I CHECK THE RESISTORS ON THE FUEL GAUGE AND GETTING 90 OHMS. FOR SOME REASON I CAN'T GET THE FUEL GAUGE TO WORK. HOW DO I GROUND THE GAUGE CLUSTER. ALSO I HAVE A NEW GAS TANK AND SENDING UNIT. I CAN SEE THAT MY GROUND TO MY TANK IS CONNECTED. IT SO CONFUSING FOR ME, PLEASE ADVISE HOW TO GET IT BACK IN WORKING CONDITION. THANK YOU ROBERT DELAO
Hey Robert, are you sure the actual gauge it’s self is working? You should be able to verify if the sending unit is getting the signal to the cluster with a multimeter. I haven’t messed with the printed circuits on these clusters before. I imagine you have a diagram showing which wires are which with the new circuit board? I can look at some diagrams in the morning and see if I can figure out which wire on the connector should be the ground. I’m located outside of Dallas.
Thanks CW, I really appreciate your time and help. The old harness was the factory harness. I remove it and the bulkhead component. It's trash long time ago. So I bought a 12 circuit harness .just basic circuits. No power windows or anything like that. The truck runs , has lights etc but can't figure out the fuel gauge. Anyway thanks again for your help. Looking forward to see if you know what's going on. Thanks again. ROBERT
@@robertdelao9201 Did you use the stock connector going into the instrument cluster though and just splice into it? I can't see how else you would be able to connect to the factory instruments otherwise. It looks like the top right wire of the connector going to the printed cable would be the ground circuit, originally a black wire. If it wasn't grounded though the lights wouldn't work I wouldn't think. It looks like the sending unit wire would go to the bottom left on the cluster and the 3rd one down on the right side of the connector. Here is a link to the wiring on the printed circuit. Look at #30 was originally a pink wire that connected in two place.
www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/77-80_instrument_pg1.jpg
www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/77-80_instrument_pg2.jpg
@@cwsgarage CW,your taking about the instrument gauge cluster pig tail ? That snaps into the back of the cluster itself? Do u mean that I get a ground wire and splice the tan wire and put the tan and the ground together and hook the ground to sheet metal.?
I'm I correct?
By chance where did you find that Evap core? i have looked and looked, and still haven't found one? Spectre "730642" AC evaporator core?
The evaporator I just got from oreilly’s for the 86 Suburban C20. The condenser is a Spectra 7-3642 it’s 166 on Amazon.
@@cwsgarage Thank you for reading my mind. I meant the condenser!
@@factoryguy7879 haha not a problem at all, I mix them up too.