I like Taylor's attention to detail. He puts a wire we can not see into a green slot but it is orange and corrects himself in post production. That means a lot when you are doing this work for yourself and following along.
This is going to help me and probably many people tackle one of the most daunting tasks when working on a motorcycle. I've followed you for a few years now. Gonna have to get a t shirt to help support all the work and information you've shared. Thanks! Edit - Just ordered!
The most comprehensive m unit install I have watched! And I have watched a lot of them! For someone who has limited wiring knowledge Ive found the Revival cycles vids good but they seem to concentrate on the M unit not what you do if you want to retain existing switches. Thanks 10 out of 10
Just decided today that i was going to finally rebuild my old cb550. Stumbled across this video and I’m super thankful since I have no idea what i did when I retired it years back. Lol Thank you!
The amount of development in engine and chassis technology in the last 40 years has been amazing. It seemed like I could bring bikes up to almost modern standards yet still had a shed load of little boxes and wires everywhere. At last. Thanks for explaining it well enough for an electrical numpty to understand (sort of)!
I just installed my M-Unit with the wire kit, completely rewiring my 1980 CX and it was simple and amazing! Thanks so much for explaining wiring in depth - really helped me understand the Honda wiring system better and how to get around the neutral and kill switch with the M-Unit.
Thank the lord for this video! Racked my brain for days trying to figure out how to utilize stock controls for the headlight. Wholetime, the logic was so simple. Thank You!
Nice well documented video. As a techy I like the idea of the m-unit. With respect to the "Kill" switch, the route you have chosen is by far the best. As this is an emergency switch it needs to be fail safe in operation. There is no substitute to a mechanical device in the feed to the coils as a last resort. The m-unit is of course solid state and as such could fail in such a way as to not turning off the ignition feed. Also the kill switch was designed to handle a set amount of current. This current keeps the switch contacts clean and working. It is known as a wetting current. The input to the m-unit is unlikely to satisfy this requirement and could have caused an issue at a later date given climatic conditions (salt, rain etc) on the kill switch. Keep up the content...
My nephew and I have been totally redoing a 1970 Honda cb350 since last November .......... I purchased a m-unit blue to put in this bike....We are done with the mechanical part including upgraded carbs and an electronic ignition system....Left to do is the wiring of the bike to include the m-unit blue.....I know nothing about motorcycles, have never been on one as a rider or as a driver....)Note: Recently took and passed the state basic rider course as my first attempt)....My nephew has wired one bike with a wiring harness and no m-unit blue....With all of this said your timely wiring here in this U-Tube has been our bible to get this done.........Not done yet and will keep you posted on results......TY TY TY TY TY
well...8 months later and we attempted to hook up system and turned it on but nothing works....will back tract to this video again and check every wire.....my oh my
I wondered why make it signal to ground but it makes sense if you want to reduce the number of wires used. I was skeptical when I saw the price tag but its literally a modern ECU. Ill be ordering one and watching this video about 100 times. Thanks bro!
You make it look so easy, ive wanted to change my honda to a m unit for a while but im not the best with wiring, scared ill make a mess of it lol Great video as always thanks
This helps so much. I'm gonna watch this many times over. Incredibly thankful! Bought an M-unit Blue and the wire kit etc about 3 years ago and it's still sitting in the box lol. Might finally be able to move my Ducati Monster 600 -95 out the garage (aka living room). Best wishes from Sweden.
Got my munit blue on my bike powered up and the bike started. Still waiting on pushbuttons for my handlebars to get the m button hooked in. But much appreciate the videos.
Thinking this will be a must buy upgrade when I do my Virago chopper build. I heard you discussing this unit on the 5 dirty bikers podcast. But seeing it has me sold.
Thank you very much for your explanation! It really helped a lot! I configured my kill switch like you told. But after updating my m-unit blue you can change the kill switch behavior from NO or NC contact. So it can now be done with the m-unit! It works for me.
@@MG-we9np In the phone app there is an option how you would like to use that contact now. During your video that was not an option. So you don't have to do it with the wiring anymore. I think this is what I meant when I wrote the comment.
That RR needs to be out in the fresh air somewhere .... :) M- Unit does not function with latch type switches. Momentary signal switches only as you are aware. GOOD JOB working your way around it . I did same thing with the Kill. Re lighting circuit I originally was doing likewise however chose to by pass the m-unit HB output and power the HL with constant power out of ignition via the stock HD key switch which has a 2nd position to power the HL circuit . The customer wanted keep these functions to stock. PS I ran both front and rear brake lite lines into the the brake input on the m-unit .
Just subscribed! You explain everything so clearly and make it all seem easy! Then I get out to the garage and start screwing up my bike and it becomes clear how skilled you really are! You could and should have a TV show!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Those four wire connectors state that for multi core wires, they should be soldered before they are pushed into the connector. Solid core wires just push in.
Taylor, many thanks...amazing to have this very well described! BUT be careful I pretty skeptic about idea to hide REC/REG under the seat into that tray! This may end up in fire!
@bonsaitigerMTB could mount underneath electric tray for airflow. Then drill a hole on tray where water would be hard to enter, use a grommet and seal. That's what I'm doing
Great tutorial, thank you for helping us out with the task of wiring our old honda/suzukis . Any possibillity that you could show a m-button addition to this?
@@nathanmason522 The MButton is a device with cables (one cable for each control) to connect your controls in the handle bar. So you have only one cable for every switch. They connect in a small tube, and from there you only have ONE cable that goes to the M Unit.
@@lumberjaxx3335 I just bought the 2 button and 3 button switches off of Revival, those are made by Motone. I also bought a m-unit blue and the $80 wiring kit, I am fixing up a 82 cb 900c. If I got those switches and plan on putting them on a new set of handlebars, would I need these m button for anything or should those 5 cover the functions of the bike alongside the wiring harness kit and I need to purchase a new battery, hoping to use old regulator/rectifier. Might need to purchase new starter solenoid kit as well. If you could elaborate on what I could use the button for after reading up on what I have, I would appreciate any further replies. I also intend on buying the turn signal/brake lights that are very minimalistic and he has recommended on another video I believe, think they are made by BULLET and sold on Revival Cycles as well. With 4 of those I could cover front and back lights and keep my stock headlight to start, run about $73 a pop
@@nathanmason522 If you already have the switches you could do this : Buy the M button, connect each wire from the m button to one switch (the cables are named after their exact function, turn signals, horn, starter, low high beam etc. Afterwards you connect the one left cable with the aux. connector on the m unit. The m button helps to reduce wiring, so from the handlebar only one thin cable runs beneath the gas tank to you m unit. The M Button helps to reduce wiring to an absolute minimum and helps to keep a clean line with almost no cables between the seat and the handlebar (only those for the coils etc.)
I tried to use one on my gs450 and it wouldn’t work. It was like the bars wouldn’t shield it like they were supposed to. Then a year in my m-unit shit the bed as soon as motogadget implemented their new fee. The logging functions never worked again even though I paid their new $8.99 yearly fee
Hi, Been following your video’s for A while now from Belgium and really like/appreciate them. On this one however I have a small remark which I can’t refrain from making. Namely that WAGO and other style clamps are used for in house use and to my opinion should not be used in A bike or any automotive stuff. No pun intended btw! Other then that still liked the video very much and found it clear video on m unit install. Rather solder connection on bikes and use heatshrink to protect. Btw .. difference between yellow and orange clamp .. yellow only for solid core cable, other can be used for woven copper cable. Keep the nice content coming ! ;-)
Love your videos but allow me one comment as an electrician: When clamping a wire with a screw, you HAVE TO use a ferrule, otherways you would destroy the strands. BUT When sticking a wire into a spring clamping terminal (such as the m-unit is using) you must NOT use a ferrule. In theory: The connection doesn't get stronger as you said, but weaker, as the spring is not strong enough to deform the ferrule. So the "clamping-area" is small meaning the force it is able to transfer is also small(er). A smaller "clamping-area" automatically means that the current-density is pretty high at the clamping spot. And THAT means that that spot could get reeeeeeally hot once the output of the m-unit has to deliver the 10(20)Amps it is capable of. tldr: You are risking burning down your bike. For the rest: keep up the good work!
Always look forward to your videos 🏍🏍🏍Big fan of munit to me seems like overkill given your utilizing key, headlights, kill, ignition, horn switches etc. That said if you want to keep OE looking, lots of good work arounds. Keep up the great work.
Love your videos and the technical side of the M-Unit, looks really good for a custom set-up. I’m just not really understanding what it save in terms of wire runs and connections. Especially if you have a new loom. Not hating just curious.
I don't like it either. Nothing about it looks straightforward. And people fit them to classic bikes, as if to say a points ignition system and basic wiring loom with relays and stuff is more complicated than an M-Unit. I mean, just look at it. How does that simplify anything.
I've been debating fitting an M unit for a while on several projects, but until seeing this video I couldn't find a really in depth guide. Thank you. Super informative. The bike I'm considering fitting this to is a 1982 CB750 and has sparks units. Would they power off the same as the coils? And if I'm using aftermarket simple on/off push button type switches one wire goes to ground and the other to the M unit? No power involved?
Thinking of running this on my CB650c chopper build because even though I’m taking the bike down to the basics, I’ve never messed with wiring before and would like to see in advance where I’m messing up and what’s wired totally wrong.
Hey Taylor, I have an 84 VT500 Shadow. The junction box (ignition/dash/lights) fried at the main hot/ground terminals. Is the M Unit the best replacement for this? Are there other options as well?
Please make a same video on Royal Enfield GT or Interceptor 650 cause there's a confusion on my mind about spark plug, TPS and fuel injectors connections with M-Unit.
I'd like to get an m unit and the module for my time to 5:15 1974 I was going to get a press down electronic ignition but I think I'll wait and try and make the trade was bending that metal with some the hand tools I got I have some other batteries battery plus it's right down the street
Thanks very much for putting up the vid.....im gonna have to watch it a good few times....just about to start re wiring my late fathers 400/4 - i must confess i do feel like ive got a lot more wires in the headlight area....!! - im using all the stock guages and switchgear though...
Really clear instructions and very well explained. Well done. Just wondering whether mounting it closer to the front could reduce the wiring runs even more for a super-neat setup?
Great Video! im about to do the same to my 79 cb750. I see your using a 4 cell antigravity... is that strong enough to turn the bike over? I was planning to use the 8 cell. also are you using your stock R/R while using a lithium battery?
Which anti gravity battery do you recommend. I have a Home CB400F. I’m doing same thing just don’t know if should get a cell 4 or 8 small case from them.
Hey man, new subscriber - I appreciate you so much. Your break downs are so much more thorough and user friendly to new riders. I plan on working my way through all your videos but this weekend I'm hoping to install a new set of clubman handlebars. Do you have a video that covers that? Kind regards
Hello there, like the video can you please let me know if you can use the M-Bottom module with the OEM switches and run only onesignal wire back to the maim M unit. let me if you have an answer Thanks
This is an awesome tutorial!! I have a question regarding using the M Button. I also want to keep my stock switches and in order to have kill switch and headlight wiring with stock switches does it also mean that I wouldn't need or be able to use the M button? In other words to use the M Button I would need new switches but to use stock switches I'll have to use the wiring techniques that you have demonstrated? BTW I'm building a '75CB400f. Thanks in advance!!!
Hello, daft question here.I,ve got an M unit basic the M unit wiring/switches for a cb550 four . Your vid is most interesting and I was wondering if I just follow your instructions for the M unit blue ?
Super helpful vid! One question though. My 72 cb350f only has a kick starter, do I still need to use the 40amp fuse to connect my battery to my unit of can I just connect it straight to the munit and regulator
Hello there! First of all, thanks a lot for your video! Quick question, following this setup is it possible to start the bike without keys using the keyless start? I tried but it won't start -_-
Do you worry about placing the heat sink below the seat like that putting it at risk of getting hit by debris or is that a pretty safe area for it just by nature of how mud and stuff is flung from the wheel?
Just received my blue and will be installing it in custom Virago....I was wondering if you have wiring schematic I can refer too. I think the process will be quite similiar with some minor adjustments but I'd like something to refer too.
Regarding the kill/start switch, could one also just connect the "on" position to the ignition key, so to start the machine you need the starter switch to "on" and have the ignition key to "on". And only if both are "on" you can ground the actual starter switch?
Hey Taylor. Many thanks for your videos. They really are a lifesaver. Question tho. I've hooked up everything correctly to start the bike but when i press the start button (classic honda switch) it dosent kick the starter over. It has to b the switch because when I disconnect the start in wire (from the y/r starter wire) n then ground the start in wire from the m-unit blue, the starter kicks over. How can I check the y/r starter wire n start button. Also I might add when I turn the key from off to middle position the m unit blue comes on but when I turn the key to the ignition position, the m-unit turns off....is this a problem??? Please help as I'm pulling my hair out here...thanks Taylor
hi ! Taylor. I really appreciated your tutorial, still I have a few questions to complete the M Unit installation on my CB550. I would like to send my wiring diagram so that you check if it makes sense to you. How can I send the .pdf file to you ? thanks in advance.
I know I am probably really overthinking this, but can I essentially do this same wiring diagram with a regular fuse block and relay? Wire fuse block from ignition to main Then out to ignition To headlight/taillight constant Left side wiring Right side wiring
I think 10% of these views came from me coming back to this video every time I got stuck, BUT IT WAS WORTH IT
I like Taylor's attention to detail. He puts a wire we can not see into a green slot but it is orange and corrects himself in post production. That means a lot when you are doing this work for yourself and following along.
Thinking of getting one, would you recommend?
This is going to help me and probably many people tackle one of the most daunting tasks when working on a motorcycle. I've followed you for a few years now. Gonna have to get a t shirt to help support all the work and information you've shared. Thanks!
Edit - Just ordered!
The most comprehensive m unit install I have watched! And I have watched a lot of them! For someone who has limited wiring knowledge Ive found the Revival cycles vids good but they seem to concentrate on the M unit not what you do if you want to retain existing switches. Thanks 10 out of 10
Just decided today that i was going to finally rebuild my old cb550. Stumbled across this video and I’m super thankful since I have no idea what i did when I retired it years back. Lol
Thank you!
The amount of development in engine and chassis technology in the last 40 years has been amazing. It seemed like I could bring bikes up to almost modern standards yet still had a shed load of little boxes and wires everywhere. At last. Thanks for explaining it well enough for an electrical numpty to understand (sort of)!
This was very helpful. Though, I hoped you were going to show the clean up and tuck process for the wires.
I just installed my M-Unit with the wire kit, completely rewiring my 1980 CX and it was simple and amazing! Thanks so much for explaining wiring in depth - really helped me understand the Honda wiring system better and how to get around the neutral and kill switch with the M-Unit.
Thank the lord for this video! Racked my brain for days trying to figure out how to utilize stock controls for the headlight. Wholetime, the logic was so simple. Thank You!
Nice well documented video. As a techy I like the idea of the m-unit.
With respect to the "Kill" switch, the route you have chosen is by far the best. As this is an emergency switch it needs to be fail safe in operation. There is no substitute to a mechanical device in the feed to the coils as a last resort.
The m-unit is of course solid state and as such could fail in such a way as to not turning off the ignition feed. Also the kill switch was designed to handle a set amount of current. This current keeps the switch contacts clean and working. It is known as a wetting current. The input to the m-unit is unlikely to satisfy this requirement and could have caused an issue at a later date given climatic conditions (salt, rain etc) on the kill switch.
Keep up the content...
watched this like half a dozen times while wiring my '81 Virago XV750. You're step by step explanation is fantastic
My nephew and I have been totally redoing a 1970 Honda cb350 since last November .......... I purchased a m-unit blue to put in this bike....We are done with the mechanical part including upgraded carbs and an electronic ignition system....Left to do is the wiring of the bike to include the m-unit blue.....I know nothing about motorcycles, have never been on one as a rider or as a driver....)Note: Recently took and passed the state basic rider course as my first attempt)....My nephew has wired one bike with a wiring harness and no m-unit blue....With all of this said your timely wiring here in this U-Tube has been our bible to get this done.........Not done yet and will keep you posted on results......TY TY TY TY TY
well...8 months later and we attempted to hook up system and turned it on but nothing works....will back tract to this video again and check every wire.....my oh my
I wondered why make it signal to ground but it makes sense if you want to reduce the number of wires used. I was skeptical when I saw the price tag but its literally a modern ECU. Ill be ordering one and watching this video about 100 times. Thanks bro!
You make it look so easy, ive wanted to change my honda to a m unit for a while but im not the best with wiring, scared ill make a mess of it lol
Great video as always thanks
Go for it. Would be hard pressed to find a better video to follow other than maybe something from Revival Cycles.
This was great. Do one every couple years as manufacturers change their lines, parts, etc. so we can keep up on the goods and bads. Good work here!
Ive had my M-unit on my Triumph Legend for almost two years so far and I love it! great vid man.
Thank youuuu. Been sitting in an m unit for a few months want to switch my 86 cb650c to LED. This video is really helpful!
This helps so much. I'm gonna watch this many times over. Incredibly thankful! Bought an M-unit Blue and the wire kit etc about 3 years ago and it's still sitting in the box lol. Might finally be able to move my Ducati Monster 600 -95 out the garage (aka living room). Best wishes from Sweden.
lol I also have m-unit blue sitting for 3 years already, wiring feels daunting, luckily he showed step-by-step process
Got my munit blue on my bike powered up and the bike started. Still waiting on pushbuttons for my handlebars to get the m button hooked in. But much appreciate the videos.
Thinking this will be a must buy upgrade when I do my Virago chopper build. I heard you discussing this unit on the 5 dirty bikers podcast. But seeing it has me sold.
Those M-Units are pretty cool. I have no plans to put one on my CB750, but this video was helpful in understanding the wiring system on my bike.
Thank you very much for your explanation! It really helped a lot! I configured my kill switch like you told. But after updating my m-unit blue you can change the kill switch behavior from NO or NC contact. So it can now be done with the m-unit! It works for me.
Update the blue unit as in the phone app? U can switch it in the app?
@@MG-we9np In the phone app there is an option how you would like to use that contact now. During your video that was not an option.
So you don't have to do it with the wiring anymore.
I think this is what I meant when I wrote the comment.
@@porschetarga4s cheers Nick 👌🏼👍🏼
You’re a real one for making this.
Fr
Dude that was brilliant to watch and now makes the goldwing trike wiring so much easier thank you
That RR needs to be out in the fresh air somewhere .... :) M- Unit does not function with latch type switches. Momentary signal switches only as you are aware. GOOD JOB working your way around it . I did same thing with the Kill. Re lighting circuit I originally was doing likewise however chose to by pass the m-unit HB output and power the HL with constant power out of ignition via the stock HD key switch which has a 2nd position to power the HL circuit . The customer wanted keep these functions to stock. PS I ran both front and rear brake lite lines into the the brake input on the m-unit .
Just subscribed! You explain everything so clearly and make it all seem easy! Then I get out to the garage and start screwing up my bike and it becomes clear how skilled you really are! You could and should have a TV show!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Excellent reference video. One I shall be watching and rewinding an awful lot given the mess of a bike I've recently bought. Many thanks indeed.
Seriously fantastic explanation of the M-Unit/wiring w/stock Honda components.
Fuse box in my 83 cb650sc shit the bed…having trouble sourcing one so think I’ll go this route. Have a feeling this video will be a big help lol
Those four wire connectors state that for multi core wires, they should be soldered before they are pushed into the connector. Solid core wires just push in.
Taylor, many thanks...amazing to have this very well described! BUT be careful I pretty skeptic about idea to hide REC/REG under the seat into that tray! This may end up in fire!
because it gets very hot? where is a better location?
@bonsaitigerMTB could mount underneath electric tray for airflow. Then drill a hole on tray where water would be hard to enter, use a grommet and seal. That's what I'm doing
Great tutorial, thank you for helping us out with the task of wiring our old honda/suzukis . Any possibillity that you could show a m-button addition to this?
Appreciate how you explain everything,what a blessing to find this.
You can also buy those ratcheting wire crimpers at harbor freight. Exact same item mine has held up really well through a ton of abuse
You should have used also the M Button for an additional 50 bucks, it makes everything soooo much easier
What is the function of the M button?
@@nathanmason522 The MButton is a device with cables (one cable for each control) to connect your controls in the handle bar. So you have only one cable for every switch. They connect in a small tube, and from there you only have ONE cable that goes to the M Unit.
@@lumberjaxx3335 I just bought the 2 button and 3 button switches off of Revival, those are made by Motone. I also bought a m-unit blue and the $80 wiring kit, I am fixing up a 82 cb 900c. If I got those switches and plan on putting them on a new set of handlebars, would I need these m button for anything or should those 5 cover the functions of the bike alongside the wiring harness kit and I need to purchase a new battery, hoping to use old regulator/rectifier. Might need to purchase new starter solenoid kit as well. If you could elaborate on what I could use the button for after reading up on what I have, I would appreciate any further replies. I also intend on buying the turn signal/brake lights that are very minimalistic and he has recommended on another video I believe, think they are made by BULLET and sold on Revival Cycles as well. With 4 of those I could cover front and back lights and keep my stock headlight to start, run about $73 a pop
@@nathanmason522 If you already have the switches you could do this : Buy the M button, connect each wire from the m button to one switch (the cables are named after their exact function, turn signals, horn, starter, low high beam etc.
Afterwards you connect the one left cable with the aux. connector on the m unit.
The m button helps to reduce wiring, so from the handlebar only one thin cable runs beneath the gas tank to you m unit. The M Button helps to reduce wiring to an absolute minimum and helps to keep a clean line with almost no cables between the seat and the handlebar (only those for the coils etc.)
I tried to use one on my gs450 and it wouldn’t work. It was like the bars wouldn’t shield it like they were supposed to. Then a year in my m-unit shit the bed as soon as motogadget implemented their new fee. The logging functions never worked again even though I paid their new $8.99 yearly fee
Hi,
Been following your video’s for A while now from Belgium and really like/appreciate them. On this one however I have a
small remark which I can’t refrain from making.
Namely that WAGO and other style clamps are used for in house use and to my opinion should not be used in A bike or any automotive stuff.
No pun intended btw! Other then that still liked the video very much and found it clear video on m unit install.
Rather solder connection on bikes and use heatshrink to protect.
Btw .. difference between yellow and orange clamp .. yellow only for solid core cable, other can be used for woven copper cable.
Keep the nice content coming ! ;-)
Haven't even watched the video yet and I'm really excited that it's quite long! I'm sure it'll be so helpful
Cool video, I might need to get a M unit for my 82 GPZ 550 that I want to restore.
excellent vid. hopefully going to pick up a project bike this weekend with one of these. thanks again
Love your videos but allow me one comment as an electrician:
When clamping a wire with a screw, you HAVE TO use a ferrule, otherways you would destroy the strands.
BUT
When sticking a wire into a spring clamping terminal (such as the m-unit is using) you must NOT use a ferrule.
In theory:
The connection doesn't get stronger as you said, but weaker, as the spring is not strong enough to deform the ferrule. So the "clamping-area" is small meaning the force it is able to transfer is also small(er).
A smaller "clamping-area" automatically means that the current-density is pretty high at the clamping spot.
And THAT means that that spot could get reeeeeeally hot once the output of the m-unit has to deliver the 10(20)Amps it is capable of.
tldr: You are risking burning down your bike.
For the rest: keep up the good work!
Man , what a damn life saver you are sir . A super salute to you !
Sweet.. I wish this stuff already available when I did my project way back 2012
Always look forward to your videos 🏍🏍🏍Big fan of munit to me seems like overkill given your utilizing key, headlights, kill, ignition, horn switches etc. That said if you want to keep OE looking, lots of good work arounds. Keep up the great work.
What battery are you using and do you have measurements for the tray please ..
They are boot lace crimps loving the m unit by the way and this video keep up the really good work G
Hey, a great course on installing the M-Unit.Thanks so much. Stay safe.
Love your videos and the technical side of the M-Unit, looks really good for a custom set-up. I’m just not really understanding what it save in terms of wire runs and connections. Especially if you have a new loom. Not hating just curious.
I don't like it either. Nothing about it looks straightforward. And people fit them to classic bikes, as if to say a points ignition system and basic wiring loom with relays and stuff is more complicated than an M-Unit. I mean, just look at it. How does that simplify anything.
Awesome job man. You’re a natural teacher. Would this be the exact same for a CB750?
For me this video have been very helpful, thank you Classic octane for very good job.
This video is gold! Thanks for sharing that!
I've been debating fitting an M unit for a while on several projects, but until seeing this video I couldn't find a really in depth guide. Thank you. Super informative.
The bike I'm considering fitting this to is a 1982 CB750 and has sparks units. Would they power off the same as the coils?
And if I'm using aftermarket simple on/off push button type switches one wire goes to ground and the other to the M unit? No power involved?
Thinking of running this on my CB650c chopper build because even though I’m taking the bike down to the basics, I’ve never messed with wiring before and would like to see in advance where I’m messing up and what’s wired totally wrong.
Excellent video, I hope I'm able to take some of the information in this video and use it for when I rewire my Ducati S4R, if I ever dare to do it!
This video helped me SO MUCH!! Thank you so much for your help.
Amazing job bro! Greetings from Paraguay
Hey Taylor, I have an 84 VT500 Shadow. The junction box (ignition/dash/lights) fried at the main hot/ground terminals. Is the M Unit the best replacement for this? Are there other options as well?
I use hockey tape on my wiring harnesses very similar to the tape you use but cheaper
Dude you're a life saver. thanks so much
Excellent how too, love your channel Taylor. keep up the awesome work mate .
Please make a same video on Royal Enfield GT or Interceptor 650 cause there's a confusion on my mind about spark plug, TPS and fuel injectors connections with M-Unit.
Thx for the vid...will be wiring my cb750 with a m unit basic and this will help!
I'd like to get an m unit and the module for my time to 5:15 1974 I was going to get a press down electronic ignition but I think I'll wait and try and make the trade was bending that metal with some the hand tools I got I have some other batteries battery plus it's right down the street
Thanks very much for putting up the vid.....im gonna have to watch it a good few times....just about to start re wiring my late fathers 400/4 - i must confess i do feel like ive got a lot more wires in the headlight area....!! - im using all the stock guages and switchgear though...
Really clear instructions and very well explained. Well done. Just wondering whether mounting it closer to the front could reduce the wiring runs even more for a super-neat setup?
Is there a company who makes/sells the under seat tray for the 550? Thanks!
That's what I want to know, too!
My wire harness is all kinds of wasted... this video will help me fix the rat ness of wires. Thanks
So glad I found your video. Is the tray that’s holding everything battery etc. is the tray factory or aftermarket?
What cell size are you using for the battery? I’m currently building a 79 gs750. Great video love the detail
Great Video! im about to do the same to my 79 cb750. I see your using a 4 cell antigravity... is that strong enough to turn the bike over? I was planning to use the 8 cell. also are you using your stock R/R while using a lithium battery?
Which anti gravity battery do you recommend. I have a Home CB400F. I’m doing same thing just don’t know if should get a cell 4 or 8 small case from them.
Hello. Awesome tutorial! it is almost 2 years old video. Is there any updates? Maybe new technologies? Thank you.
I was wondering, what rectifier did you use for this project? Planning to switch out my 550 for an M unit too with an anti gravity battery 🤷🏻♂️
Excellent tutorial. Thanks so much!
almost had this bike, congrats to the new owner..... darn covid
Hey man, new subscriber - I appreciate you so much. Your break downs are so much more thorough and user friendly to new riders. I plan on working my way through all your videos but this weekend I'm hoping to install a new set of clubman handlebars. Do you have a video that covers that? Kind regards
Great video, been waiting for one like this.
Will the neutral and clutch switch still function, i.e. the starter motor wont function if the bike is in gear?
Hello there, like the video can you please let me know if you can use the M-Bottom module with the OEM switches and run only onesignal wire back to the maim M unit. let me if you have an answer Thanks
I've been waiting on an M Unit video
Dude yessss, thanks for making this video!
This is an awesome tutorial!! I have a question regarding using the M Button. I also want to keep my stock switches and in order to have kill switch and headlight wiring with stock switches does it also mean that I wouldn't need or be able to use the M button? In other words to use the M Button I would need new switches but to use stock switches I'll have to use the wiring techniques that you have demonstrated? BTW I'm building a '75CB400f. Thanks in advance!!!
Hello, daft question here.I,ve got an M unit basic the M unit wiring/switches for a cb550 four . Your vid
is most interesting and I was wondering if I just follow your instructions for the M unit blue ?
Super helpful vid! One question though. My 72 cb350f only has a kick starter, do I still need to use the 40amp fuse to connect my battery to my unit of can I just connect it straight to the munit and regulator
Hello there!
First of all, thanks a lot for your video! Quick question, following this setup is it possible to start the bike without keys using the keyless start?
I tried but it won't start -_-
Do you worry about placing the heat sink below the seat like that putting it at risk of getting hit by debris or is that a pretty safe area for it just by nature of how mud and stuff is flung from the wheel?
A very informative vidio great job well explained
Cool video! What mirrors did you install there?
Awesome video! Thank you!
Just received my blue and will be installing it in custom Virago....I was wondering if you have wiring schematic I can refer too. I think the process will be quite similiar with some minor adjustments but I'd like something to refer too.
Regarding the kill/start switch, could one also just connect the "on" position to the ignition key, so to start the machine you need the starter switch to "on" and have the ignition key to "on". And only if both are "on" you can ground the actual starter switch?
Hi, I like your built. what battery brand you used? thnks
Howdy, any chance you’ve done a m-unit on a 81 maxim?? Could really use the help 😅I wanna try to keep my light switch and my turn switches as well
Hey Taylor. Many thanks for your videos. They really are a lifesaver. Question tho. I've hooked up everything correctly to start the bike but when i press the start button (classic honda switch) it dosent kick the starter over. It has to b the switch because when I disconnect the start in wire (from the y/r starter wire) n then ground the start in wire from the m-unit blue, the starter kicks over. How can I check the y/r starter wire n start button. Also I might add when I turn the key from off to middle position the m unit blue comes on but when I turn the key to the ignition position, the m-unit turns off....is this a problem??? Please help as I'm pulling my hair out here...thanks Taylor
Isn’t the regulator rectifier supposed to stay cool? It needs air flow and should be mounted where it can get it or it’ll get hot I thought?
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Are you telling me that I can toss out my 85' 454's harness and pop this kit in ???
This is what I would like to do on my CB450.
This wiring looks like it can be a real headache.
hi ! Taylor. I really appreciated your tutorial, still I have a few questions to complete the M Unit installation on my CB550. I would like to send my wiring diagram so that you check if it makes sense to you. How can I send the .pdf file to you ? thanks in advance.
Flabbergasted! Woah Taylor, respect.
Could you ground one of the green wires from the rectifier to the frame?
I know I am probably really overthinking this, but can I essentially do this same wiring diagram with a regular fuse block and relay?
Wire fuse block from ignition to main
Then out to ignition
To headlight/taillight constant
Left side wiring
Right side wiring