Hope these tips help you with your build. First of all, I want to thank Guy for inspiration and a great plan. I wouldn't have ever attempted this without his vision and video guidance. That being said, I found it useful to modify things a bit. Not necessary at all, but helpful to me. 1. Use cabinet grade ply if you can afford it. My experience with Big Box ply (even "good stuff") is iffy. I buy my stuff at Woodcraft. I find alternate ply has too few ply layers and is often bowed. 2. If you route the 4 inch and 2 1/2 inch hoses out the left panel and rear panel (both on the left side of the cabinet) you will have the entire right side for four drawers, all full depth. You can then have one deep or two shallow drawers under the CleanSweep... but these one or two will still need a 10 inch draw slide (because the exhaust hoses are at the back) I found this also shortens the amount of hose needed and also makes the panel above the draws easier to manipulate. 3. Guy's method to install the draw slides is very useful and clever. Recommend (as he does) that you leave the router table off until near the very last for drawer slides and electrical work, as well as any adjusting required. 4. Drawers can be joined with pocket holes if you wish. Jay bates has a couple of videos on TH-cam that substantiate this method. But use glue too. I used a TS for the bottom grooves. 5. Draw slides are all 15 inch on the right side, and ten inch on the left side. This is a bit confusing, as sometimes the video and the written commentary suggest fourteen inch slides. 6. The door and the draw faces are easier to deal with if you use 3/4 ply. First off, I don't think half inch ply for the door is possible, as you need to drill half inch recesses in it for the Euro hinges. Secondly, the door and draws will only be even (on the cabinet face) if you use 3/4 inch ply. Thirdly, the Euro hinge is a "Full Overlay" (Blumotion 110d, #152740). This will allow the door to overlay a 3/4 inch filler strip that you install on the left side of the middle divider, to the right of the CleanSweep cabinet. The dimensions would be approx. 18" tall, 2 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick. Guy's video actually shows something like this, and he also recommends 3/4 ply in his commentary in the lengthier list of commentaries on his Incra TH-cam Channel. The door will fully overlay this filler strip on the hinge side, be even with 3/4 draw faces of the right side, and soft close (as inset) on the left side of the cabinet, even with the frame. Hope this isn't confusing :) 7. When you join 3/4 to 1/2 inch ply, I've found it useful to use 1 1/8 inch wood screws. These are available on Amazon. They come in handy in my shop and I don't worry about "screw through." 8. I used SO (14 Gauge) electrical cable and made my own extension, routed to the right side of the cabinet where I mounted the Jessum switch. I do recommend (as Guy's video hints) that you might wish to cut you router's cable short (about 8 inches from the router motor). Then install a new male plug. This allows you to keep a short amount of extension cord inside the CleanSweep box and makes it simple to remove your router if ever required. Also this prevents a bunch of coiled cable inside the box, should you feel you want the ability to remove the router, and also use an extension cord. 9. Perhaps this goes without saying, but even with the excellent plans Guy (and other craftspeople at other times) provide... you should always double-check things before cuts, There are too many variables: wood thickness, blade kerfs, misprints in directions, and so forth. I sheepishly admit that despite being careful, two draws I fully made were a tiny bit too wide to fit in this cabinet. I had lots of choices to correct this, but the easiest (for several reasons) was to remake the drawers to fit). Have fun, and thanks again, Guy!
Great video, thanks for sharing. One very important suggestion however for others - it would be MUCH better to put in the filler strip and drill holes for the door hinge inside the cabinet BEFORE putting the top back on the frame. Once you re-install the router table top, the downdraft casing makes access to drilling the hinge screws impossible. Hope this is helpful to others...
I started this build after having built the dust collection cabinet from the plans on the Incremental Tools website. First thing that came to my attention is that either the door to the dust collection cabinet must be redesigned to drop straight down somehow or these plans must be modified to accommodate its swing out design in order for everything to fit properly. The pre-fab Clean Sweep cabinet does not cause any problem, though. Hope this saves somebody a few headaches along the way. I made the mistake of cutting everything out for the build prior to fitting so I just ordered the Clean Sweep cabinet so I wouldn't have to mess with changing anything. Some things I just never seem to learn!
Hi Guy !! I am trying to build the Incra router cabinet like the one here on TH-cam. I'm using 1/2" ply as indicated but have a question ! All the door hinges that I have found have a cup depth of 1/2" !! I saw you drill out the door panel and use what looked like a "Blum" brand hinge, but they don't make a more shallow cup depth that would work on 1/2" wood door !! What did you use ???
I have a couple recommendations for those following your plans . 1/2” ply for the bottom is too light for the span especially since there is no support along the front and back. I would recommend going to 3/4” and/or placing a brace mid span front to rear. Ideally, most center dividers are 3/4” as well. The 1/2” floor is too light to support drawers hung on the center divider with any weight in them. The only support for it is provided by pocket screws along the back of the center divider with a shear load and those into the bottom of the table top. None of these are ideal for providing support to a loaded center divider. Additionally, the center divider gets no support from the bottom horizontal metal frame members since the floor doesn’t either unless you cut the floor dimensions to be supported by the metal frame. I would do that and make it 3/4”. The tolerances for the dust collection are just too tight. It leaves zero room for hose flanges and is a “shoehorn” fit at best. I eliminated the 2 bottom drawers on the left side and the bottom drawer on the right side. That leaves a very comfortable amount of room on the right side to turn the 45-degree 2.5” to be flat rather than upright. And on the left side a direct center drop from the dust collector to the bottom floor rather than a nearly impossible double 90-degree below the dust collector. Always hard to get 10 pounds in a 8 pound sack.
Nice build Guy. So I know this is a few years old and someone may have already commented. There is a discrepancy in the measurements for the door. In the plans I have the cut list #6 Door is 16 7/8x15 11/32. However, in the details the measurements are 16 7/8x 14 21/32. I’m building without the hoses on the inside.
What a perfect video for me. I own the entire Incra Router set you have. I have been looking for just such a plan!!! Thank you. I am reading lots of suggestions and mods to your plan, all of which are above my woodworking acumen. I am trying to understand what they refer to. It would sure help if you'd respond to all these before the rest of get to that point???
Thanks Guy! Planning to make this cabinet soon. Does anybody have experience with removing the cleansweep box out of design. If you are making a plywood box under the router what is the purpose of having another box inside the box? There might be some air flow uniformity advantage with having the cleansweep there but it seems there is more of a hassle with access. You can probably add some baffles to remove dead spots in the plywood router box if you see some dust accumulation after you start to use it. Also eliminates having to run any hoses inside the cabinet. Appreciate your thoughts!
Guy, I’m in mid-build on the Incra router table cabinet. Can you provide the drawer handle and door hinges you used? Also, is there any more detail available regarding the power switch and wiring? The video glances over that and the plans provide no information. Thank you! Doug
I only put one drawer under the router to make it easier to connect the dust collector hose. Also, it gave me more room to drop the access panel on the clean sweep box when I need to access my router.
Great idea. I followed your lead and made one bottom drawer the same height as the bottom right drawer. Looks great and I like having more access to the router.
Guy, I built the Incra Router Cabinet and I am ready to add the drawers and door. I have been having a problem finding a European style hinge for the 1/2" door. Mind sharing the specs and where you got them?
Just wondered if it might have been easier to run the extraction hoses underneath the chassis, rather than running them through it. Super build nevertheless. Thank you for sharing.
Great video. I'm in the process of building my own table and I can't seem to find the miter slot/t track you used in your old table. It comes in the tops purchased from incra but I made my own. Where can I find this?
I have Built this cabinet but there is a design issue. The bottom panel is only resting on the two end frames with no support in the middle with the weight of the cutters in the drawers which all connects to the centre panel causing sagging after time. The bottom panel needs to be supported from the underneath and be in contact with all 4 lower bars to avoid this happening.
Agree. I thought the bottom design seemed odd but trusted Guy and initially built it per his design. But before building the drawers, I replaced the bottom panel. I made it 16 1/2" wide and cut small 45 degree pieces out of the four corners so it would fit. Worked like a charm. Thanks Guy for your awesome plans.
That's interesting because I looked on the back page of incra's manual and it's got the same dimensions as guy's. I haven mt built mine yet, but am planning to tomorrow morning. I just measured the distance between the back and the front and sure enough that panel will be too narrow. I thought maybe I might have assembled mine wrong as did a few others that made the same observation. But t I don't think there's another way to do it. The more striking peculiarity was all the trouble spent feeding the dc hose from the end. Why not leave the 2 1/2 inch outside the cabinet and putting the 4 inch closer to the router?
Hey Guy, I'm building the router table and following along with your video. Do you remember where you purchased the red hardware for the door and drawer pulls? Thanks Guy. Great videos and information.
Great build. I'm planning on following your instructions as soon as my Incra table arrives. Where did you get the drawer pulls? They are a perfect match for the cabinet.
Nice video, in fact I decided to build your exact same cabinet. I purchased a 4"- 2 1/2" Y connector and Flange from Woodcraft but it really isn't a friction fit with these parts and I was wondering where you purchased the Y connector and Flange components you installed in your video? Your measurements for the cabinet were excellent from what I was able to build so far! Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
IMHO Sketch Up isn't worth a crap. 1st they want you to create an account with somebody called "Trimble" with insane password requirements and then after doing all of it (against my better judgement) it didn't work anyway. And of course their email was one you couldn't respond to in order to try and find out why you still can't access the file. Then again I'm an old man so I don't do well with this all this security stuff anyway. I don't have any accounts worth millions of dollars like you must have to afford all that Incra equipment. But I like the cabinet. Wish I could afford to build it. Social Security doesn't pay that well though.
![[DRIP] ‘Woke Up In Tokyo (RUKA & ASA)’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QN44lcR_VkI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope these tips help you with your build. First of all, I want to thank Guy for inspiration and a great plan. I wouldn't have ever attempted this without his vision and video guidance. That being said, I found it useful to modify things a bit. Not necessary at all, but helpful to me.
1. Use cabinet grade ply if you can afford it. My experience with Big Box ply (even "good stuff") is iffy. I buy my stuff at Woodcraft. I find alternate ply has too few ply layers and is often bowed.
2. If you route the 4 inch and 2 1/2 inch hoses out the left panel and rear panel (both on the left side of the cabinet) you will have the entire right side for four drawers, all full depth. You can then have one deep or two shallow drawers under the CleanSweep... but these one or two will still need a 10 inch draw slide (because the exhaust hoses are at the back) I found this also shortens the amount of hose needed and also makes the panel above the draws easier to manipulate.
3. Guy's method to install the draw slides is very useful and clever. Recommend (as he does) that you leave the router table off until near the very last for drawer slides and electrical work, as well as any adjusting required.
4. Drawers can be joined with pocket holes if you wish. Jay bates has a couple of videos on TH-cam that substantiate this method. But use glue too. I used a TS for the bottom grooves.
5. Draw slides are all 15 inch on the right side, and ten inch on the left side. This is a bit confusing, as sometimes the video and the written commentary suggest fourteen inch slides.
6. The door and the draw faces are easier to deal with if you use 3/4 ply. First off, I don't think half inch ply for the door is possible, as you need to drill half inch recesses in it for the Euro hinges. Secondly, the door and draws will only be even (on the cabinet face) if you use 3/4 inch ply. Thirdly, the Euro hinge is a "Full Overlay" (Blumotion 110d, #152740). This will allow the door to overlay a 3/4 inch filler strip that you install on the left side of the middle divider, to the right of the CleanSweep cabinet. The dimensions would be approx. 18" tall, 2 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick. Guy's video actually shows something like this, and he also recommends 3/4 ply in his commentary in the lengthier list of commentaries on his Incra TH-cam Channel. The door will fully overlay this filler strip on the hinge side, be even with 3/4 draw faces of the right side, and soft close (as inset) on the left side of the cabinet, even with the frame. Hope this isn't confusing :)
7. When you join 3/4 to 1/2 inch ply, I've found it useful to use 1 1/8 inch wood screws. These are available on Amazon. They come in handy in my shop and I don't worry about "screw through."
8. I used SO (14 Gauge) electrical cable and made my own extension, routed to the right side of the cabinet where I mounted the Jessum switch. I do recommend (as Guy's video hints) that you might wish to cut you router's cable short (about 8 inches from the router motor). Then install a new male plug. This allows you to keep a short amount of extension cord inside the CleanSweep box and makes it simple to remove your router if ever required. Also this prevents a bunch of coiled cable inside the box, should you feel you want the ability to remove the router, and also use an extension cord.
9. Perhaps this goes without saying, but even with the excellent plans Guy (and other craftspeople at other times) provide... you should always double-check things before cuts, There are too many variables: wood thickness, blade kerfs, misprints in directions, and so forth. I sheepishly admit that despite being careful, two draws I fully made were a tiny bit too wide to fit in this cabinet. I had lots of choices to correct this, but the easiest (for several reasons) was to remake the drawers to fit). Have fun, and thanks again, Guy!
Hi Tom, can you post a picture of how you routed the dust collection hoses? I am sure I am not the only one that would benefit from this!
Just noticed the Colts shirt… seen this video dozens of times and finally saw most important part. ;-)
Great video, thanks for sharing. One very important suggestion however for others - it would be MUCH better to put in the filler strip and drill holes for the door hinge inside the cabinet BEFORE putting the top back on the frame. Once you re-install the router table top, the downdraft casing makes access to drilling the hinge screws impossible. Hope this is helpful to others...
I started this build after having built the dust collection cabinet from the plans on the Incremental Tools website. First thing that came to my attention is that either the door to the dust collection cabinet must be redesigned to drop straight down somehow or these plans must be modified to accommodate its swing out design in order for everything to fit properly. The pre-fab Clean Sweep cabinet does not cause any problem, though. Hope this saves somebody a few headaches along the way. I made the mistake of cutting everything out for the build prior to fitting so I just ordered the Clean Sweep cabinet so I wouldn't have to mess with changing anything. Some things I just never seem to learn!
Hi Guy !! I am trying to build the Incra router cabinet like the one here on TH-cam. I'm using 1/2" ply as indicated but have a question ! All the door hinges that I have found have a cup depth of 1/2" !! I saw you drill out the door panel and use what looked like a "Blum" brand hinge, but they don't make a more shallow cup depth that would work on 1/2" wood door !! What did you use ???
Great video, very well done. I hope to see more project videos from you.
I have a couple recommendations for those following your plans . 1/2” ply for the bottom is too light for the span especially since there is no support along the front and back. I would recommend going to 3/4” and/or placing a brace mid span front to rear. Ideally, most center dividers are 3/4” as well. The 1/2” floor is too light to support drawers hung on the center divider with any weight in them. The only support for it is provided by pocket screws along the back of the center divider with a shear load and those into the bottom of the table top. None of these are ideal for providing support to a loaded center divider. Additionally, the center divider gets no support from the bottom horizontal metal frame members since the floor doesn’t either unless you cut the floor dimensions to be supported by the metal frame. I would do that and make it 3/4”.
The tolerances for the dust collection are just too tight. It leaves zero room for hose flanges and is a “shoehorn” fit at best. I eliminated the 2 bottom drawers on the left side and the bottom drawer on the right side. That leaves a very comfortable amount of room on the right side to turn the 45-degree 2.5” to be flat rather than upright. And on the left side a direct center drop from the dust collector to the bottom floor rather than a nearly impossible double 90-degree below the dust collector. Always hard to get 10 pounds in a 8 pound sack.
Nice build Guy. So I know this is a few years old and someone may have already commented. There is a discrepancy in the measurements for the door. In the plans I have the cut list #6 Door is 16 7/8x15 11/32. However, in the details the measurements are 16 7/8x 14 21/32. I’m building without the hoses on the inside.
.any issues with the hoses on the outside? That's my plan. Seems to make good sense to do that.
Also, did you adjust the width of the bottom?
Can this be built for the smaller stand and still have room on the side for drawers??
What a perfect video for me. I own the entire Incra Router set you have. I have been looking for just such a plan!!! Thank you. I am reading lots of suggestions and mods to your plan, all of which are above my woodworking acumen. I am trying to understand what they refer to.
It would sure help if you'd respond to all these before the rest of get to that point???
Thanks Guy! Planning to make this cabinet soon. Does anybody have experience with removing the cleansweep box out of design. If you are making a plywood box under the router what is the purpose of having another box inside the box? There might be some air flow uniformity advantage with having the cleansweep there but it seems there is more of a hassle with access. You can probably add some baffles to remove dead spots in the plywood router box if you see some dust accumulation after you start to use it. Also eliminates having to run any hoses inside the cabinet.
Appreciate your thoughts!
Guy, I’m in mid-build on the Incra router table cabinet.
Can you provide the drawer handle and door hinges you used?
Also, is there any more detail available regarding the power switch and wiring? The video glances over that and the plans provide no information.
Thank you!
Doug
I only put one drawer under the router to make it easier to connect the dust collector hose. Also, it gave me more room to drop the access panel on the clean sweep box when I need to access my router.
Great idea. I followed your lead and made one bottom drawer the same height as the bottom right drawer. Looks great and I like having more access to the router.
Guy, I built the Incra Router Cabinet and I am ready to add the drawers and door. I have been having a problem finding a European style hinge for the 1/2" door. Mind sharing the specs and where you got them?
Just wondered if it might have been easier to run the extraction hoses underneath the chassis, rather than running them through it. Super build nevertheless. Thank you for sharing.
I got some 1/2in MDF in my shop,what your idea on MDF
Why didn't you route the 4" hose out the same rear side as the 2.5" hose?
Great video. I'm in the process of building my own table and I can't seem to find the miter slot/t track you used in your old table. It comes in the tops purchased from incra but I made my own. Where can I find this?
I have Built this cabinet but there is a design issue.
The bottom panel is only resting on the two end frames with no support in the middle with the weight of the cutters in the drawers which all connects to the centre panel causing sagging after time.
The bottom panel needs to be supported from the underneath and be in contact with all 4 lower bars to avoid this happening.
Agree. I thought the bottom design seemed odd but trusted Guy and initially built it per his design. But before building the drawers, I replaced the bottom panel. I made it 16 1/2" wide and cut small 45 degree pieces out of the four corners so it would fit. Worked like a charm. Thanks Guy for your awesome plans.
I built the bottom panel wider and cut notches in the corners fit around the legs so mine is supported on all four sides.
@@jerry_karenbengtson8314 Can you post some pictures? I am in the processing of building my now.
@@jasonhagenI will try to get some photos for you next week. Hopefully sooner
That's interesting because I looked on the back page of incra's manual and it's got the same dimensions as guy's. I haven mt built mine yet, but am planning to tomorrow morning. I just measured the distance between the back and the front and sure enough that panel will be too narrow. I thought maybe I might have assembled mine wrong as did a few others that made the same observation. But t I don't think there's another way to do it.
The more striking peculiarity was all the trouble spent feeding the dc hose from the end. Why not leave the 2 1/2 inch outside the cabinet and putting the 4 inch closer to the router?
Hey Guy, I'm building the router table and following along with your video. Do you remember where you purchased the red hardware for the door and drawer pulls? Thanks Guy. Great videos and information.
I'd like to know as well!
Got mine on Amazon. Took a month to get them from China.
I'm going to build this, great video! I like the red drawer pulls too, do you mind sharing where you found them?
Amazon
Great build. I'm planning on following your instructions as soon as my Incra table arrives.
Where did you get the drawer pulls? They are a perfect match for the cabinet.
Nice video, in fact I decided to build your exact same cabinet. I purchased a 4"- 2 1/2" Y connector and Flange from Woodcraft but it really isn't a friction fit with these parts and I was wondering where you purchased the Y connector and Flange components you installed in your video? Your measurements for the cabinet were excellent from what I was able to build so far! Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Rick, I have the same question. Did you ever find the friction fitting connectors? Thanks, Rob
I found the 4 x 4 x 2 1/2 wye, and the flange components at Rockler woodworking
The problem is the wye dosen't connect to the flange from Rockler. The inside of the flange is the size as the "Y" OD.
@@dennisboyd516 can you fit a flange on both sides? (like rocklers through the wall connector)
What size incra router table top is this?
It's the 27x43 router table top: (#RT2743OS)
Thanks for giving me the size very helpful will be building it soon.@@clstudio2001
How did you secure the 2 1/4" top support piece to the stand?
I drilled a hole in the corner posts that the top support fits into and used a 6x1/2" sheet metal screw to secure the top support.
IMHO Sketch Up isn't worth a crap. 1st they want you to create an account with somebody called "Trimble" with insane password requirements and then after doing all of it (against my better judgement) it didn't work anyway. And of course their email was one you couldn't respond to in order to try and find out why you still can't access the file. Then again I'm an old man so I don't do well with this all this security stuff anyway. I don't have any accounts worth millions of dollars like you must have to afford all that Incra equipment. But I like the cabinet. Wish I could afford to build it. Social Security doesn't pay that well though.