I have this exact camera (it's called 800D in Germany) and I didn't know there was a way to lock the mirror 😳 However, I've been shooting quite a few deep sky targets with it so far and I am impressed by it's capabilities!
hi first time viewer and now a sub. I am looking to buy a used camera, I'm not at all in the range of being able to pay more than a couple hundred for the basic Canon eos rebel t5 . I found this on fb marketplace. I'm wanting to try to find a camera I can fit onto my two very marketplace cheep finds not motorized. With that in mind and once I seen how some cameras can do great things without having to track across the sky I was wondering how the canon eos rebel t5 is? I see your starter recommendation is t7i and as much as I would luv to get one that's just not a option .... unless there's a go fund me for my super expensive hobby 😅😂 All jokes aside I do wish to know how the t5 would be with a $300 price tag two lenses the camera and battery charger? thanks for sharing your style of speaking and videos great content!
Fair enough. But if you don't mind doing manual time-lapses, it's not a huge deal. But, it is an entry-level camera so a lot of neat features are missing =/
Would this be a good choice as my first camera for both landscaping and astrophotography!?!?what other or similar cameras can you recommend me!??thank you and great content
Yes, it would be fine for both! The one thing you'll have to remember for both is that the lens makes the larger difference for the photo. The kit lens is good to start off with and learn the process of each style of photography while you are deciding which lens to go with next (and for either Astro or landscape).
Just come across this video and have now subscribed as it looks like you have loads of great content for me as a beginner. My question is, I'm using a Skywatcher Star Discovery 150p telescope with my 800d, whilst its a fantastic viewing scope for me, its not the best for astrophotography. To get focus I have to use a 2x Barlow lens as my T Adapter which would take my f stop from F5 to around F8. would this still be any good for deep space photography. Thank you.
No it would not. I have a similar Newtonian that is only for super quick grab & go when needed, it's not good in any way for photography. If you want to stay with a Newtonian, you'd be better off going with an Astrograph or one that has a faster focal ratio. Otherwise a refractor or SCT would be better suited for it.
@@AstroEscape Thank you so much for your quick response and advice I really appreciate it, you have really confirmed what I was thinking and also that buying a dedicated astro camera would not be a wise move at this time. Skywatcher have a telescope very similar spec to mine but its shorter in length and has a better focuser which they claim is better for photography. I have also seen videos on line that suggest moving the primary mirror slightly forward and/or taking a cm off the focuser neither of which I am willing to do. Your advise will be brilliant for the future, however, at the moment viewing and finding my way around the night sky is my main priority, last night Was nice and clear but I resisted taking my scope out and was just viewing/learning the constellations. My 800d was bought about 3 years ago whilst in Singapore, so was a bit mix and match. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. I started astro with a rebel T6i, but had bought it originally to make TH-cam videos. Later on I got a 6D Mark II but need to go to a dark site to get better pictures. Keep it up!!
Thanks! Yeah heading to a dark sky site is always awesome. Can't wait until I can get back to one, local observatory will have to do for now! That full frame sensor will get some sweet milky way shots for you!
I'm looking for simplicity! I borrowed my friends Nikon d600 and there were not many astro photographers who use that kind of camera. I wrote down the main points lots of videos had but when I went out to no service pure star filled sky, I couldn't figure out how to get exactly where I was trying to go. Even with the manual downloaded!
@@AstroEscape I really like the night scaping so I've been working on ways to light objects up and get the stars (and if I'm lucky the milky way). I finally bought a Canon EOS Rebel 7 this weekend!!
I have the Nikon D5600. It has the articulated screen and I find it easy to use. I have it set for shutter delay and use an intervalometer (sp). It's light wt and I use this specifically for AP only.
Very nice, that screen is soooo amazing when the camera is facing weird angles. Even in daytime photography if you are doing anything down low to the ground, a camera with an articulating screen is great!
I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBRCB1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just make sure you set the interval two seconds longer than the exposure so it shoots as intended.
For astrophotography? Sure! Both Trevor from Astrobackyard and Nico from Nebula Photos both did videos about it, it's great. The sensor is pretty much the same. For daytime photos the t7 is slower if you need to use burst shooting mode, like taking pictures of a running dog, for example. You also won't have the flip out screen on the t7, which, after using it on star trackers for a whole you'll want!
You can still get great shots in light pollution. You just need a filter. Sticking to Deep Sky is a better option when under light pollution, wide shots like Milky Way shots typically are too washed out because of light pollution =/
Thank you for the video. I have the T7i and my daughter also has it. I wonder what I can do to see stars better on my live view. I set the LV screen as bright as it goes. I set my ISO as high as it goes and set my shutteropening at different speeds trying to see stars easier. I can barely find stars which are very bright which makes it really hard to find dimmer objects. Oh - my lens is f2.8. What more can I do to get my pictures framed without having to take subs - move the camera - take subs and over and over? Thanks again.
What focal length are you using? As you go deeper (longer focal length), you'll see the stars. Wide angle lenses you'll have to do that process you mentioned.
@@AstroEscape Thank you very much for the tip. I use lenses up to 600 mm. Of course we all realize that with such a long fL lens the area of the sky is "much" smaller, making the target a lot more elusive. Most recently I've been trying to use the shorter lens first wanting to center where the target might be, and then put on the longer lens to find the item. I also use a laser pointer, but a lot of the time the laser light covers the target. lol It looks like this is going to take a lot of experimentation and patience. I think next I'll try my 80mm x 400mm lens. For my first interchangeable lens camera I bought a mirrorless Panasonic Lumix GH3 and it's live view screen makes finding targets a lot easier and quicker. Both cameras make fine pictures. I haven't tried a mirrorless Canon. I suspect a mirrorless camera might make a big difference. I also hoped that using mirror lockup might help the Canon live view screen show how the sky looks after a sub is snapped. If that would work I hoped I could use that procedure to focus stars on the L V screen. I tried that last night and it didn't work as I hoped. Thanks again for your videos and your reply.
Great video, thanks! So here's a question...I've been shooting pretty successfully with a Modded t3i for awhile and I'm looking to replace it with another a new Canon APS-C camera. Like the T3i, it will be used solely for astro imaging. Budget is in the $1,200 range. All of that being said, should I be considering something other than the T7i/T8i family? Thank You.
If the Canon RA was still being made, I'd recommend that, but finding one is higher than your price range. I guess the best thing to consider now is how much you are willing to switch to a different lens mounting system, if you use lenses. Staying in the EOS line would keep your lenses compatible with each camera body you have, since you already have that. Going back to the RA for a second, mirrorless are showing some great results that might be worth the switch in mounting systems if you are fine with re-buying the go-to lenses. It'll happen eventually anyways, since Canon announced they are done with DSLR's and only doing mirrorless from now on.
@@AstroEscape Thanks for the feedback, I found a few Canon 6D's (A bit dated and Full Frame) and from what I've read are pretty promising for astro and within my budget. Camera + Mod = Budget. So I might head in that direction. All of my lenses are full frame compatible.
I want a good robust manual mode, able to take star trail. So, require remote connection with triggers. Will t7 do or t7i is required? I'm a beginner. I know stuffs theoretically but I haven't done too much in practice. Sometimes I borrow cameras and do them.
t7 will work, but the benefit of the t7i is the flip screen, which helps a lot as sometimes the camera is pointed in weird directions and it can be uncomfortable to look at the screen! Both will take great star trails pictures!
Thank you for sharing. I got the opportunity to see a rocket launch in 2018. Incredible experience. I uploaded a pretty fun montage of the trip to my channel.
I just ordered a T7i to replace my old T5. I think my lenses should work fine. I want to try my hand at astrophotography and was wondering how long of an exposure I can try before it overheats? I also want to get some good moon shots. Is this camera good for that? I have a 75 to 300 mil lens. I was thinking about getting an extender. I’ve seen some that mount on the front of the lens and some that mount between the lens and the body. Any recommendations?
The longest I've taken it is 3 minutes per exposure with no issues. I haven't had the need to go any longer yet. I feel it would work fine up to 5 minutes but then it might get noisy without added cooling. It's good for moon shots. At 300 millimeter you can be fine. Check out my moon video here: th-cam.com/video/3YT6Du-W_Os/w-d-xo.html. The telescope I use there is 360mm, but with your 300mm lens, you can use the same process to get a good shot. If you don't have a mount/tracker, you can still do it, the moon will just move across the frame. As to your question about extenders, I haven't used them. You're probably better off waiting and getting a telescope or longer focal length lens due to extenders reducing your aperture (f/number). In astrophotography, you want to avoid barlow lenses (which are the same as extenders) because of how much longer you need to expose for on dimmer targets. It's not the case for the moon because it's so bright, but as you move into deep sky targets, you want a fast aperture (lower number).
@@AstroEscape One other thing. I was thinking about getting a lens like this one. th-cam.com/video/YPw70it5jZ8/w-d-xo.html I don’t think it works on my camera but if it doesn’t do you know of a lens similar to this one that does work on my camera? This lens comes in 600 mil or 800 mil. It’s supposed to be a very good lens. I was thinking about how good it would be for deep sky and planet shots. BTW, thanks for responding to my last message.
@@knightwing4 It won't work. You'll need an adapter. At that point you're probably better off going with a telescope if you want to go with those focal lengths. Depending on the telescope it might be cheaper too, just need to get the proper adapter for the telescope, and those are usually under $40 USD.
I tried shooting the Milky Way for the first time with the 800D, but in the final image there is a very strong red tint to it. Any help? I’m not sure if it’s a problem with the color calibration, other settings or just plain old light pollution. Where I was shooting was about 60km away from the nearest city, and I was shooting away from it.
The T3 is still a heavy hitter in the beginner world, and the used market you can get one cheap. The t7i is still being produced and is still close to full price. If you go with t7i, I would say, pick one of those and Astro Mod it, and leave the other default so you still have a DSLR for daytime use. The only reason I would say yes to that switch is the LCD screen being fully articulating, it saves your back/neck at weird angles. The other thing to consider when switching models, doesn't matter which, is making sure your lenses and telescope adapters still work with the new one!
Nah, not really. There are still a TON of people still using cameras older than that! But, if you don't have a camera already, it's definitely a good one to get!
It really is. When the camera is on a tracker, it can get to some weird angles based on what you are imaging that night. Being able to flip the screen out and stay standing but still be able to see the screen is a back saver!
@@MMPhoto No, full frame cameras generally have better low-light capabilities. Of course, using calibration frames evens the score between them but if it's just for say, a milky way shot, go with the 6D. But, budget wise, the t7i is a lot easier on the bank account.
I use the 18-55 for recording and some daytime photography (based on the subject), but for astrophotography, the 14mm Rokinon, the Canon 50mm, and the Rokinon 135mm are all great choices!
Yes, you'll be able to capture Andromeda. Depending on how detailed you want it to be, you'll need the right lens or telescope to do it. Somewhere around 360mm focal length is a good place to start for details on Andromeda.
Depends on what you are using it for. Are you doing video? If so, the 4k on the SL3 will be nice. If you are doing sports photography, the t7i has a faster burst mode. But the main advantage the SL3 has for astrophotography that I can see is the longer battery life. That's nice when out doing Milky Way shots, less need to change the battery if you aren't using a dummy battery with a power bank. I'd say SL3 when comparing them!
What is it you are looking for in your first camera? What about your second camera? Let's discuss it!
is this better for astro than the p1000?
I'm actually glad I saw this before I got the T7 instead of the T7i
I'm glad I could help! What was it that helped you out?
I have this exact camera (it's called 800D in Germany) and I didn't know there was a way to lock the mirror 😳
However, I've been shooting quite a few deep sky targets with it so far and I am impressed by it's capabilities!
Yep, it is helpful. I am still learning some extra things this camera can do, primarily video related since it's my recording camera too.
Such an informative video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Daylon. And it was nice meeting you.
Thanks Scott! It was nice meeting you as well. Hopefully next star party the clouds stay away!
My husband got me this camera for x-mas I would like to do astrophotography but have no idea how to even start hopefully you can help
It's a good one to start with for astro!
Can I shoot Milky Way with it
Of course! It's the only camera I do shoot milky way with currently :)
hi first time viewer and now a sub. I am looking to buy a used camera, I'm not at all in the range of being able to pay more than a couple hundred for the basic Canon eos rebel t5 . I found this on fb marketplace. I'm wanting to try to find a camera I can fit onto my two very marketplace cheep finds not motorized. With that in mind and once I seen how some cameras can do great things without having to track across the sky I was wondering how the canon eos rebel t5 is? I see your starter recommendation is t7i and as much as I would luv to get one that's just not a option .... unless there's a go fund me for my super expensive hobby 😅😂
All jokes aside I do wish to know how the t5 would be with a $300 price tag two lenses the camera and battery charger?
thanks for sharing your style of speaking and videos great content!
You would be fine with that! People still use the t3i and even earlier cameras :)
What kind of Astro changes would need to be made?
Since it is a stock DSLR, the IR filter would need removed. There's a few other changes that could be made but stock, it's still a good camera.
Not my first option for AP since there is no fully fledged time-lapse feature except for the "movie timelapse" thing which is not very helpful.
Fair enough. But if you don't mind doing manual time-lapses, it's not a huge deal. But, it is an entry-level camera so a lot of neat features are missing =/
Would this be a good choice as my first camera for both landscaping and astrophotography!?!?what other or similar cameras can you recommend me!??thank you and great content
Yes, it would be fine for both! The one thing you'll have to remember for both is that the lens makes the larger difference for the photo. The kit lens is good to start off with and learn the process of each style of photography while you are deciding which lens to go with next (and for either Astro or landscape).
Just come across this video and have now subscribed as it looks like you have loads of great content for me as a beginner. My question is, I'm using a Skywatcher Star Discovery 150p telescope with my 800d, whilst its a fantastic viewing scope for me, its not the best for astrophotography. To get focus I have to use a 2x Barlow lens as my T Adapter which would take my f stop from F5 to around F8. would this still be any good for deep space photography. Thank you.
No it would not. I have a similar Newtonian that is only for super quick grab & go when needed, it's not good in any way for photography. If you want to stay with a Newtonian, you'd be better off going with an Astrograph or one that has a faster focal ratio. Otherwise a refractor or SCT would be better suited for it.
@@AstroEscape Thank you so much for your quick response and advice I really appreciate it, you have really confirmed what I was thinking and also that buying a dedicated astro camera would not be a wise move at this time. Skywatcher have a telescope very similar spec to mine but its shorter in length and has a better focuser which they claim is better for photography. I have also seen videos on line that suggest moving the primary mirror slightly forward and/or taking a cm off the focuser neither of which I am willing to do. Your advise will be brilliant for the future, however, at the moment viewing and finding my way around the night sky is my main priority, last night Was nice and clear but I resisted taking my scope out and was just viewing/learning the constellations. My 800d was bought about 3 years ago whilst in Singapore, so was a bit mix and match. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. I started astro with a rebel T6i, but had bought it originally to make TH-cam videos. Later on I got a 6D Mark II but need to go to a dark site to get better pictures.
Keep it up!!
Thanks! Yeah heading to a dark sky site is always awesome. Can't wait until I can get back to one, local observatory will have to do for now! That full frame sensor will get some sweet milky way shots for you!
I'm looking for simplicity! I borrowed my friends Nikon d600 and there were not many astro photographers who use that kind of camera. I wrote down the main points lots of videos had but when I went out to no service pure star filled sky, I couldn't figure out how to get exactly where I was trying to go. Even with the manual downloaded!
What were you trying to do with that pic? Just a milky way shot?
@@AstroEscape I really like the night scaping so I've been working on ways to light objects up and get the stars (and if I'm lucky the milky way). I finally bought a Canon EOS Rebel 7 this weekend!!
I have the Nikon D5600. It has the articulated screen and I find it easy to use. I have it set for shutter delay and use an intervalometer (sp). It's light wt and I use this specifically for AP only.
Very nice, that screen is soooo amazing when the camera is facing weird angles. Even in daytime photography if you are doing anything down low to the ground, a camera with an articulating screen is great!
Wonderful review! I’ve been looking into intervalometers for this specific cameras, any suggestions?
I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBRCB1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just make sure you set the interval two seconds longer than the exposure so it shoots as intended.
I’m pretty new to the canon brand cameras, actually, this is my first one I’ve had, and I’m wondering would a regular canon rebel t7 work?
For astrophotography? Sure! Both Trevor from Astrobackyard and Nico from Nebula Photos both did videos about it, it's great. The sensor is pretty much the same. For daytime photos the t7 is slower if you need to use burst shooting mode, like taking pictures of a running dog, for example. You also won't have the flip out screen on the t7, which, after using it on star trackers for a whole you'll want!
I got the canon t7(not i). I’m just starting to try and get milky way shots but I worry there’s too much light pollution.
You can still get great shots in light pollution. You just need a filter. Sticking to Deep Sky is a better option when under light pollution, wide shots like Milky Way shots typically are too washed out because of light pollution =/
Thank you for the video. I have the T7i and my daughter also has it. I wonder what I can do to see stars better on my live view. I set the LV screen as bright as it goes. I set my ISO as high as it goes and set my shutteropening at different speeds trying to see stars easier. I can barely find stars which are very bright which makes it really hard to find dimmer objects. Oh - my lens is f2.8. What more can I do to get my pictures framed without having to take subs - move the camera - take subs and over and over? Thanks again.
What focal length are you using? As you go deeper (longer focal length), you'll see the stars. Wide angle lenses you'll have to do that process you mentioned.
@@AstroEscape Thank you very much for the tip. I use lenses up to 600 mm. Of course we all realize that with such a long fL lens the area of the sky is "much" smaller, making the target a lot more elusive. Most recently I've been trying to use the shorter lens first wanting to center where the target might be, and then put on the longer lens to find the item. I also use a laser pointer, but a lot of the time the laser light covers the target. lol It looks like this is going to take a lot of experimentation and patience. I think next I'll try my 80mm x 400mm lens.
For my first interchangeable lens camera I bought a mirrorless Panasonic Lumix GH3 and it's live view screen makes finding targets a lot easier and quicker. Both cameras make fine pictures. I haven't tried a mirrorless Canon. I suspect a mirrorless camera might make a big difference.
I also hoped that using mirror lockup might help the Canon live view screen show how the sky looks after a sub is snapped. If that would work I hoped I could use that procedure to focus stars on the L V screen. I tried that last night and it didn't work as I hoped.
Thanks again for your videos and your reply.
Great video, thanks! So here's a question...I've been shooting pretty successfully with a Modded t3i for awhile and I'm looking to replace it with another a new Canon APS-C camera. Like the T3i, it will be used solely for astro imaging. Budget is in the $1,200 range. All of that being said, should I be considering something other than the T7i/T8i family? Thank You.
If the Canon RA was still being made, I'd recommend that, but finding one is higher than your price range. I guess the best thing to consider now is how much you are willing to switch to a different lens mounting system, if you use lenses. Staying in the EOS line would keep your lenses compatible with each camera body you have, since you already have that. Going back to the RA for a second, mirrorless are showing some great results that might be worth the switch in mounting systems if you are fine with re-buying the go-to lenses. It'll happen eventually anyways, since Canon announced they are done with DSLR's and only doing mirrorless from now on.
@@AstroEscape Thanks for the feedback, I found a few Canon 6D's (A bit dated and Full Frame) and from what I've read are pretty promising for astro and within my budget. Camera + Mod = Budget. So I might head in that direction. All of my lenses are full frame compatible.
I want a good robust manual mode, able to take star trail. So, require remote connection with triggers. Will t7 do or t7i is required? I'm a beginner. I know stuffs theoretically but I haven't done too much in practice. Sometimes I borrow cameras and do them.
t7 will work, but the benefit of the t7i is the flip screen, which helps a lot as sometimes the camera is pointed in weird directions and it can be uncomfortable to look at the screen! Both will take great star trails pictures!
Ive shot 6mins with it and no over heat problems during the uk winter...
Nice! From what I understand, it gets pretty cold there!
Thank you for sharing. I got the opportunity to see a rocket launch in 2018. Incredible experience. I uploaded a pretty fun montage of the trip to my channel.
Very nice! I'd love to go watch a launch live someday!
I just ordered a T7i to replace my old T5. I think my lenses should work fine. I want to try my hand at astrophotography and was wondering how long of an exposure I can try before it overheats? I also want to get some good moon shots. Is this camera good for that? I have a 75 to 300 mil lens. I was thinking about getting an extender. I’ve seen some that mount on the front of the lens and some that mount between the lens and the body. Any recommendations?
The longest I've taken it is 3 minutes per exposure with no issues. I haven't had the need to go any longer yet. I feel it would work fine up to 5 minutes but then it might get noisy without added cooling. It's good for moon shots. At 300 millimeter you can be fine. Check out my moon video here: th-cam.com/video/3YT6Du-W_Os/w-d-xo.html. The telescope I use there is 360mm, but with your 300mm lens, you can use the same process to get a good shot. If you don't have a mount/tracker, you can still do it, the moon will just move across the frame. As to your question about extenders, I haven't used them. You're probably better off waiting and getting a telescope or longer focal length lens due to extenders reducing your aperture (f/number). In astrophotography, you want to avoid barlow lenses (which are the same as extenders) because of how much longer you need to expose for on dimmer targets. It's not the case for the moon because it's so bright, but as you move into deep sky targets, you want a fast aperture (lower number).
@@AstroEscape One other thing. I was thinking about getting a lens like this one.
th-cam.com/video/YPw70it5jZ8/w-d-xo.html
I don’t think it works on my camera but if it doesn’t do you know of a lens similar to this one that does work on my camera? This lens comes in 600 mil or 800 mil. It’s supposed to be a very good lens. I was thinking about how good it would be for deep sky and planet shots.
BTW, thanks for responding to my last message.
@@knightwing4 It won't work. You'll need an adapter. At that point you're probably better off going with a telescope if you want to go with those focal lengths. Depending on the telescope it might be cheaper too, just need to get the proper adapter for the telescope, and those are usually under $40 USD.
I tried shooting the Milky Way for the first time with the 800D, but in the final image there is a very strong red tint to it. Any help? I’m not sure if it’s a problem with the color calibration, other settings or just plain old light pollution. Where I was shooting was about 60km away from the nearest city, and I was shooting away from it.
Is your camera astro modified in any way?
@@AstroEscape nope, I'm still a beginner in astrophotography.
Is it worth upgrading from T3 to T7i?
The T3 is still a heavy hitter in the beginner world, and the used market you can get one cheap. The t7i is still being produced and is still close to full price. If you go with t7i, I would say, pick one of those and Astro Mod it, and leave the other default so you still have a DSLR for daytime use. The only reason I would say yes to that switch is the LCD screen being fully articulating, it saves your back/neck at weird angles.
The other thing to consider when switching models, doesn't matter which, is making sure your lenses and telescope adapters still work with the new one!
@@AstroEscape thanks!!
hello is it worth upgrading from t6i to t7i ? ( overall picture quality and noise for astro ) thank you
Nah, not really. There are still a TON of people still using cameras older than that! But, if you don't have a camera already, it's definitely a good one to get!
I have a 6D which is great but that screen is very handy.
It really is. When the camera is on a tracker, it can get to some weird angles based on what you are imaging that night. Being able to flip the screen out and stay standing but still be able to see the screen is a back saver!
@@AstroEscape As far as noise is concerned, does the t7i outperform the 6D?
@@MMPhoto No, full frame cameras generally have better low-light capabilities. Of course, using calibration frames evens the score between them but if it's just for say, a milky way shot, go with the 6D.
But, budget wise, the t7i is a lot easier on the bank account.
@@AstroEscape Thanks for the reply. I just bought the wife a t7i for Christmas. We will have to try it out. :)
I just got my first one today
Yay! Enjoy! Don't only use it for astrophotography, take it out during the day to learn it a bit!
Do you just use the 18-55mm lens or a different one?
I use the 18-55 for recording and some daytime photography (based on the subject), but for astrophotography, the 14mm Rokinon, the Canon 50mm, and the Rokinon 135mm are all great choices!
@@AstroEscape thank you!
Say can this camera get good nebula photos even do its unmodified bc I'm trying to modify it but most places are rejecting me 😩😩
Yep, one of my favorites is my North America Nebula pic, which was taken with this camera! You can see it here: astroescape.com/my-images/
@@AstroEscape thanks alot that helps me calm down lmao I thought purchased something I should've not 😅😅
I am looking to do astrophotography I am hoping I can do it with this camera it is saying I wont be able to I wanted to get pictures of adromada
Yes, you'll be able to capture Andromeda. Depending on how detailed you want it to be, you'll need the right lens or telescope to do it. Somewhere around 360mm focal length is a good place to start for details on Andromeda.
Is there a difference between canon t7 and t7i
And are they also good for street photography
Yeah, the t7I has more features. The sensor on the t7i is also slightly better.
For beginners, yep!
t7i or SL3? what do u suggest?
Depends on what you are using it for. Are you doing video? If so, the 4k on the SL3 will be nice. If you are doing sports photography, the t7i has a faster burst mode. But the main advantage the SL3 has for astrophotography that I can see is the longer battery life. That's nice when out doing Milky Way shots, less need to change the battery if you aren't using a dummy battery with a power bank. I'd say SL3 when comparing them!
Does this camera have its own wifi to connect to a phone
Yes it does.
can you see planets with it?🤔
They will look like a star unless you have it attached to a telescope of 1200mm or more.
show me how to use it not sell it to me. thanks
Thanks for your feedback. I do have a few things planned that are DSLR related, it's on a long list of ideas :)
1200 bucks aint cheap lol
Well, no, but it's on the cheaper end of some astro gear!
Go To The Point And Stop Selling The Camera
Thanks for your feedback!