ALWAYS change these 5 camera settings
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I have set up dozens of new and used cameras and have forgotten to change settings and features that have ruined my photos and/or shooting and editing experience. A few are just camera settings I choose to idiot-proof my camera in the future.
I'm hoping to spare you all the pain of my mistake by sharing the camera settings I change on every camera I take photos with, including:
- The right memory card
- The right file format
- My preferred drive mode
Don't forget to share how you set up your camera in the comments.
Also, I listed 9 things I change but ALWAYS is a strong word so I just put 5 in the title. That way people can argue about which ones should ALWAYS be changed and which ones are a preference. It's going to give everyone something to talk about.
Learn more about:
Back-Button AF setup: • A Better Way to Eye Au...
Memory cards: • Don’t buy the wrong SD...
Jpeg and raw: • Raw vs JPG: Image Qual...
Get a free tutorial for your camera at sdp.io/tutorial
I also just realized Tony made this SAME VIDEO but listed 10 settings. We even chose almost identical titles. We both hate beeping. We should get married. But, had I known about this sooner I would have done 11 settings to one-up him.
I always change the file name settings by changing the “DSC” to my own initials. I got into this habit when I began managing a team of photographers and needed a way to prevent files overwriting other files that had the same name when uploading to a central media catalog. Now all my team add their own initials in front of file names. This also helps me identify who the photographer of a particular picture is so that I can give proper credit to them on publications.
I didn't even know that was possible!
I shoot multiple cameras. So, I use it to ID the camera the shot was taken on...
@@accordingtodoug I do this too. Very helpful for my yearbook students
Those are my initials. So I never changed them 😂
me too!@@fairlessdave1834
I set pretty stuff that you mentioned. Date/Time, Image format JPG+RAW, No shutter without card, shutter release with no lens (unrecognizable lens), I also change to "uncompressed raw" type (by default it set to compressed on Sony). Sometimes I also change autofocus type - depending on what I'm planning to shoot and that is what my custom button set too. I do not switch to continues shooting unless I shoot moving subject (model, bird, bug etc). I also like my beeping otherwise I'm unsure whats going on, so I only turn it off if absolutely needed, for example during some ceremony like wedding). I use only high speed memory cards and always have 1 extra for each cam (I usually carry 2 cameras, to avoid disaster if 1 camera failed). and have 4-5 extra batteries on me (sometimes they fail and die forever, once I had to trash 2 batteries of the same day, thats why its good to have extra).
It's always nice listening to you Chelsea. I always change to single point AF too. Thanks again.
I haven't tried back button focusing before. I was wondering how it would work with wildlife photography but you said you like using it for that so I'll give it a try. I also want to start doing more night time photos this summer so the example you gave will save me a lot of future trouble. A strap with a quick release sounds super handy, especially when I want to use a gimbal so I bought 2 straps.
My photography mistake stories:
With my first wedding shoot my memory card filled up during some group photos. I didn't notice since my camera took and previewed the images like normal. Fortunately, I had switched out the memory card after the group photos so I didn't miss out on too much afterwards.
When my diopter was first off, I thought maybe something was dirty so I cleaned everything. I was frustrated when all I saw was blurriness again looking through the viewfinder. Finally I wondered, "what does this little scroll wheel do?.... Ohhhh."
One thing I do, you haven't mentioned, is to change the the copyright information on the camera. You can change it in post, but it's easier to have it set up correctly from the beginning.
Other than that, I agree with you on almost every setting - except for shooting mode. I change that according to what I shoot.
I often use old manual lenses, and I prefer to shoot in single shot mode, when I do that. Switching between modes is so simple and easy to do, I like to think, I get more out of my camera by using different modes for different things (beyond the obvious 2 sec. self timer for landscapes when using a tripod and slow shutter speeds).
The copyright I found (embedded in the RAW) is only really useful if hand out your raws, which most don't do. I put a basic copyright in mine, but I put a more extensive one in post using LR and a Metadata profile. For mine, it's basic info (simple copyright note and my name and email address but that's it).
Some things I like to change or check after shooting (and, because I don't always remember, before I shoot as well): Go back to base ISO; zero out the exposure compensation; zero out bracketing; set f/wide open; go to single shot (that's where I stay unless I really, really need burst shooting because, unlike you, I only use it when I need it - different strokes!). I like my Black Rapid strap, but only when I don't have my camera railed onto something like a tripod head. Thanks for the video!
Use high speed continuous - absolutely. You tapped on *Hi+* mode -- note the plus sign. Really gotta be careful with that - because it has a huge downside. Your viewfinder *stops* updating in realtime. If you've ever wondered why you were losing the ability to accurately track moving subjects in the frame and you had that enabled, this is why. Edit: Other downside is when shooting at apertures tighter than f/11 - because continuous autofocus only works until you hit the shutter in Hi+ mode at any aperture greater than f/11. If you're at Hi+ and f/16 the moment you hit the shutter your continuous AF is disabled and the focus is locked to whatever you had - and it stays that way for the entire burst. It's just a really fast way of taking an entire burst of out-of-focus images. Edit Edit: You've both often mentioned the problem of viewfinder lag. If you've had that mode enabled I wonder if perhaps this was the primary source of it?
Edit x3: Something to always change on Sony cameras: *DRO* = Dynamic Range Optimization. Turn this *OFF* -- worst default setting in the history of photography. It "optimizes" the dynamic range of your JPG files. This sounds helpful - until you realize that it also affects the embedded preview JPG in your RAW files. This also sounds harmless - until you find out that your *histogram* is based upon that embedded JPG preview. If you're shooting raw and chimping to check the histogram, it is literally *lying* to you and you end up with all your shots being 1 or 2 stops underexposed. /rage
Great tips. I have not done #1 and #2. I never use the camera strap that comes with the camera. I use the Peak Design camera strap connectors with a camera strap I like. The quick release design on those are great.
I do change or set custom buttons to make changes such as ISO more convenient.
8:00 - I met a person who was getting into photography, and she loved her camera. She said it wasn't functioning perfectly, but she was okay with working around the limitations of its issues. She asked me to grab a quick picture of her, and yep, the diopter was completely screwed up. One spin of the finger later and she was over the moon with gratitude. It made me feel like a magician XD
L🤩L ... L🧐L
I have never changed the diopter of someone else's camera based on my own vision... magic huh?
@@tahwnikcufos I certainly have, many times. Set it to a correct focus for me, show the owner how and allow them to fine tune to their vision. Don't be a doo doo head.
@@WanderingBobAK I guess you missed the "my own vision part"... you should probably work on reading comprehension, before calling people out on stuff. Just a thought.
That’s funny. I know a lot of people who don’t know the diopter exists. Personally, there are events where I shoot with no glasses on, so the diopter is my friend.
Great video thank you! When I am adjusting my diopter I look at the numbers in the viewfinder instead of the scene. I find if those numbers are sharply In Focus for my eyes then the focus in the viewfinder is correct out in the real world
Great tip! It works!
I always have looked at the # and not the scene. My camera readouts are only on a short time so I need one finger to spin wheel and one to hold shutter down. Problem I want to use index finger for both. Need a third hand
My slogan is "Clear, Concise and To-The-Point. That's exactly what you have done here. I'm revisiting shooting manually again after 46 years. This video helped me to create a solid baseline to work from. Thank You!
I have a lucky strap as well (one of my kids gave it to me as a gift). I've never taken it off my camera even when I've gone on multi-day hikes in the wilderness. The strap is a couple of years old now and very soft! Thank you for the video, Chelsea!
Thanks Chelsea. I was into photography many years earlier with a 35mm film camera. I didn't survive the jump to digital. However now I am just getting back into it with a new to me camera and lenses. D5200. I am finding it a little overwhelming with the lingo and all the settings. I have watched you and your husbands vids on youtube along with many other folks vids. However I find yours to be the easiest to understand for me. So I will be getting a couple of your books soon.
Dave, I was looking at the 5200 at one time but found the 3000 Series was more comfortable in my hands. Also noted that the 7000 Series was what I preferred to keep sensor compatibility with the Studio I was working with at the time.
Aren't settings essentially the same? I mean, you have ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Aperture priority, shutter priority, manual all work the same. Focus, either manual or auto are the same. Push the button. It's the computer stuff that's different, but most film photographers were scanning slides into the computer and using Photoshop before switching to digital cameras, and some programs like Elements are really intuitive.
Enjoyed this video! Some necessary info for folks. I'm a bit more obsessive...I get a new camera and I go through EVERY SINGLE MENU item enabling, disabling, and modifying options. The up side of being that obsessive is that I've seen every option in every menu and helps me get just that much more familiar with my camera :-)
Same here, i go through every setting and learn it with the instruction manual as reference 👍
Love you Chelsea - You always are so informative in a fun way!
The lucky strap blew my mind. I use a strap for shorter walks and Spider system camera belt for the longer ones. I spent so much time to getting the strap on and off my camera. Thank you Chelsea!
Good tips. You might consider a video on what settings to check EVERY TIME you go out on a new shoot. I've screwed up a lot of photos by failing to check my settings. Specifically, white balance, flash on/off, shutter rate (continuous, single [for studio], self-timer [I've left it on after doing self-portraits or long shutter speed releases], ISO, etc.
Luckily my camera allows multiple setting banks, which I can label, to stop me from doing this. It's saved my bacon more than once.
I'd like to see this idea too.
What I love about this video is how you're not projecting to be perfect. You'r like hey I mess up but this is what I did to correct it. I dunno just made it seem like I'm not the only one....lol Loved this.
No, I think she is projecting that there are people that know so little about photography that they are willing to pay her.
They could redo it , but using mess-ups is part of everyone's formula these days
She’s also bubbly and not bad to look at.......sorry Tony.
@@ussmillerco I could not argue with that if I tried...
@@leo.girardi L🤩L ... L🧐L
Nice info for beginners! Sony shooters may want to try setting the focus to DMF before trying full-on back button AF since back button focus was really only needed when focus points were restricted to the center of the frame and computational techniques for identifying subjects (e.g. face AF, eye AF, etc.) were not available. In other words, for SLRs/DSLRs.
Thanks for the nice video full of practical advice! One additional setting I set recently was setting the control ring on my Canon RF lens to adjust the ISO. It's great being able to adjust it quickly on the fly. I was afraid I would accidently change it handling the camera, but that hasn't happened yet. (It surely will, now that I said that!)
I often shoot birds and have found when I have a subject that is intent on looking away the beep will draw its attention toward the business end of the camera and I get better shots. With hummingbirds, who's color changes with just the slightest movement of their heads it is most helpful.
I’m the same on that but everyone is different
Great video. Regarding wildlife photography, I like to pre adjust my settings (Aperture, shutter speed and ISO) when I go from one lighting situation to another or when I expect to shoot something faster than what I was shooting before.
Thanks for a great video. As a sometime amateur photographer, these are good recommendations. A professional photographer friend recommended the JPEG +Raw setting several years ago. It was the right thing to do. It allowed me to adjust several pictures from OK to great.
Great tips! For a strap, I keep an old thick 35mm era strap - those suckers are built to take a bit of weight! You can find these at thrift shops, often with an old camera and lens for less than the price of a new strap.
And I agree - I've been asked more than once about blurry viewfinders to find that someone mistakenly adjusted the diopter.
I wouldn’t recommend an old and second hand strap for hygiene purpose. Imagine sweat and dirt from an unhygienic person transferring to your neck. In fact when I buy a second hand camera, I buy a new strap also and leave the old strap in the camera box to sell it later with the camera.
Thanks Chelsea! I know I heard about the back button focus from Tony. But, I was so new to photography at the time, and didn't see the purpose. So glad you did this refresher video for old fogies like me!
Same here!
Loving these one-on-one sessions as a break from the couple videos (which are also good). About shooting w/o memory card and lenses, all the cameras I had flash a warning in my face to remind me that there is no card and it bothers me so much that I put in a card just to get it to stop 😂.
Their book ...Stunning... is also very good.
Hello, I usually use the back focus button the other way around (disables focusing with trigger button when depressed). You seemed so convinced that I will give it a try, just because of you 🙂 I like this kind of U-turns in my life. 🙂
Hi Chelsea, thanks for another informative video. I turned off the "shooting w/o memory card" option. I already had AF-On and AI Servo selected, but my question is whether or not it will hurt the camera (7DII) to fire continuously during focus tracking? It seems like that's what people do while capturing birds in flight, but it seems aggressive and I wanted to make sure before trying it. Thank you, Muppet.
I really like the calm and informative way of which you (and your husband) convey information in a calm an interesting way without being too quirky like some photographers with TH-cam channels try to do.
I also change the "shutter focus priority" button. At least on Sony, they let you tell the camera how long to try to focus before giving up. I found selecting priority "focus" is best for me. That is, I tell the camera don't release shutter until you have achieved focus. Sony's default is "balanced" which allows the camera to try to focus, give up and shoot anyway. (I don't use back button autofocus.)
OMG THANKYOU!! I’m extremely new to this and I got some lenses on Amazon and could not figure out why they were not focusing but turning off the setting to use without memory card cleared it up. Not real sure why no one mentioned that! Seems pretty important!
I’m just getting into Canon and the videos you guys make are super helpful ‼️🙏🏾 Thank you for what you do 🔥
Good lord the video quality is spot on!!
OMG I'm already doing all these !!!!! Yassssss. I love the AF function. So good for headshots and continuous shooting. I hate beeps too lol
Never understood the AF setting. Why would you want that? There is always something you want to have in focus. So the moment you take a picture without focus it won’t be sharp, especially if you shoot wide open. For DSLR I just focused then kept my finger on the shutter half pressed and pressed it for taking shots. For mirrorless like the R cameras, you usually always shoot in Servo mode.
The only thing, which wasn’t covered in the video, is to decouple the focus modes. So that default shutter button is regular focus point/square while holding down the AF button will automatically use face detection.
On the other side, canon also supports a combination of both modes: a single point that acts a a object face detection marker
Another really good video Chelsea! I am getting back into photographer and was looking for some good tips and inspiration. I also change the strap and use a camera bag without a Camera's manufactures name on it, so as not to alert others I am carrying a camera. Enjoy all your tips. The only one i do not do is the Back Button Focus, as it is more work than just using the shutter button. BBF is a two step process while using the shutter button for focus and taking pictures is a seemless, one step process. Give my regards to Tony. All the best to you and yours. Hasta later.
Loving your energy. Great pointers are given. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Re: Checking the diopter knob. Some years ago I bought a Nikon off ebay the seller said had a blurry viewfinder. Got a great price on it. Sure enough, all that was wrong was the diopter knob was just cranked to one end of its range.
One of the first settings I change is the AF Assist Beam. This goes off straight away! I mean, who really needs that, and how annoying is it for the subject to have that keep going off all the time throughout the shoot? That, and setting up back-button focus, and turning the beeps off is a must for me with any new camera.
Yeah I find that it’s a situational thing. I went into a cave with my camera where it was pitch black but then some candles were lit and so I went to take a shot and the light came on and was super dumb so I covered it with my finger and then changed the setting. Oops. But yeah especially if you use MF lenses like I di now, remove the beam
The focus assist beam makes the subjects close their eyes.
I have IR assist on which I presume is invisible infrared light
that was the first thing that pissed me off right out the box. I was testing my new camera on my aquarium and immediately freaked out my fish and they all hid
That beam is definitely annoying but it is there for a reason… to get better and faster focus in dark situations. I use it when it is needed, just learn how to quickly turn it on/off on your camera.
Chelsea, thank you for your new video. As always, it is very informative.
Greetings from Germany
I am so happy, everything you have said I've already done. I must be getting better 😊
Not a fixed setting but always double check your settings. I do a lot of wildlife photography and being disabled I drive and shoot from my vehicle. I've missed a few really awesome things because I was photographing the moon the night before and didn't go back to my wildlife settings. The best shot of a kestrel I ever had was completely over exposed.
Done about the same. Had ISO set for a candle lit ceremony indoors. Then went out in the sunlight for celebrations. Do ho think I remembered to put down ISO to a reasonable value?
luckily you can use the RAW data to correct overexposed shots.
@@BlokeOnAMotorbike You can indeed, but that wonderful feature only works to a certain degree as well. The more correction & editing is neccessary, the more quality is usually lost.
Great video! I turn off the wireless and Bluetooth until I need them to avoid draining the battery unintentionally. BBAF all day long, cannot be overstated.
Holy smokes!! what a great quality video and sound quality, I thought you were in the same room with me! Great information. You and Tony are an awesome team as well as SUPERIOR & KNOWLEDGEABLE PHOTOGRAPHERS. Thanks (again) !!
Yep- I had all those settings, plus some more: I turn off Auto ISO, wanting to dictate that with older digital cameras. But for most people- myself included, I think the most helpful/best feature is: Back Button Focus. I find it functionally, ergonomically better....more intuitive to my workflow for capture.
I use it too but then you can't use that button to lock autofocus? What do you use then?
When I first got a new digital camera years ago, I forgot to change the setting to shoot without a card. I shot a bunch, and then later wanted to cry. I have not forgotten that one since.
Why would anyone buy a camera that allowed you to "take a picture" without a memory card?
@@leo.girardi some people control their camera from a laptop... you can save the photos directly to laptop hard drive 😊. Great if you're taking longer exposures through telescopes and star trackers 👍
I set my D800 to RAW to CF card, JPEG to SD card. Also use back button focus.
Love you and Tony! I've been looking for places for gear insurance but I got more than that! Thank you!
You and Tony have been great for me. I’m buying my first camera soon. I travel globally, full time and everywhere is a photo opportunity. I’m loving the results I’m getting with just my phone.
1:45, part 2. Take the time to change your date and time when you go to a different time zone. This may not seem like a big deal, but most of us are shooting with cell phones as well as a dedicated camera. If you are on vacation and want to organize ALL your photos this will become important because the cell phone will update date and time and your pictures will end up all mixed up by whatever time zone difference (or possibly date). Ask me how I know. Oh, and that was way more than 5.
Thank you for the tips! The main issue for me has been taking less than sharp images even when "in focus". The tip on the diopter is critical, I shoot with and without glasses and the diopter adjustment sved a lot of frustration.
Great tips, Chelsea. I would only differ with you regarding straps. I'm a professional product and lifestyle photographer and I haven't had a strap on any camera in years. My cameras are either on a tripod (90% of the time), in my hand, or plunked down on the ground. Street photography? Hiking? Sure, straps make sense. But in the studio or on location, just one more thing to trip over or get tangled up in...and I'm clumsy enough already. Thanks to you and Tony for all the great content you two put out!
I strap mine on, so I don't accidentally drop it.
Thank you so much Chelsea! Very helpful tips. Good luck!
I use an eye test chart when adjusting the diopter, and remember to use the same eye when taking pictures :)
The diopter adjustment is to make the viewfinder information, f stop, shutter speed and other information sharp. It's not to get the subject of the photo sharp, focusing the lens does that.
Boom! Already had all 5. I passed the test.
You just reminded me that I had taken my camera off of my preferred wildlife settings in order to do some portraits earlier in the year. I wondered why focusing seems a little weird when I was photographing birds.
Thanks! Excellent video. Saved for future reference. Your humanity is refreshing and endearing, plus this is all important information. Cheers from tropical Mexico!
My photos might not be really great, but I always set the Copyright Info so they are mine.
If you do not mind me asking. How do you do that? I have a canon 90D. Thanks
@@keblakev not sure you can!
@@niallchurch2679 understood. Thanks
On my 80D Copyright info setting is under the yellow wrench icon in the Menu.
Not sure anyone wants to pass off your crappy photos as theirs. Maybe as an example of what not to do. But definitely not to make a profit.
I use the Laowa zero d lens for real estate videos and it will not work with the Canon R6 unless I turn on shoot without lens. As far as I can tell, no manual lens will work if you turn off shoot without lens.
I believe you are correct.
Been using cameras for years but just got my first DSLR (canon sl2) and found this and other vids from your channel really helpful, this is definitely a top quality info, thanks.
So should that be off or on?
Thank you Chelsea 😊. Very very helpful for sure.
You've got "shoot without lens" backwards. It's usually disabled by default and keeping it off is what stops lenses/adapters without electronic contacts from working. You want to *enable* that option, _not_ disable it.
Enabling it also lets you do freelensing, if you can bear the risk of dust on the sensor. Not sure what the point of ever shooting without sd card is though.
A bit of a mystery how they let a video out with only 5 tips one of which is completely wrong. Maybe we need to "Chelsea - proof" TH-cam?
Not sure about most other cameras, but she is exactly right that this is "enabled" by default, with my R5. Of course I disabled it right away.
@@superfluidity I believe the purpose of the shoot without card option is so a salesman at a retail store can let the customer take a photo and view the photo for demo purposes. If they had to put cards in the demo camera they would be losing cards all the time.
@@chasw417 Perhaps, seems a shame though if they put a big misfeature like that in the camera just to make them a bit easier to demo. You can get find some low capacity SD cards for $5-$10.
As a life long photographer of 52 years, I’m here to see what tips I might wish I knew about sooner. Well, I’m proud to say that being a seasoned photographer that there was not a single tip here that I’m not already doing. The biggest and most important tip if I had to give only one would be setting the image size to maximum resolution, and just leave it there. You can always decrease the image file size later if need be, and if you need to digitally zoom in to crop, you’ll have extra pixel power to work with before you start seeing digital distortion, better known as pixeling. This tip I just gave is like a gold nugget. BTW, don’t set your ISO any higher then you absolutely need, as this will minimize white noise (digital image noise) in your images. Looking forward to the new INSAIN 61MP SONY A7 IIIV
Simple things but productive. Grazie, Chelsea.
Thanks! Just picked up a Canon EOS Rebel T3i. Perfect video for a new user!
With all due respect, Chelsea's voice is so sweet to hear
you usually preface a sentence 'with all due respect' when youre about to insult or talk poorly.
AHHHH!! I turned off RAW, during my Daughters Graduation HAT TOSS, to get more shots, and avoid a lengthy saving.... Then, took a pile of once in a life time photos, with her, and left RAW off.... Fortunately, things came really well, but I want to go back in time and have those RAW images. Raw saved SO many pics from that day!
Good video - as someone who's stepping up to a modern camera (have currently a Canon 350D !!! ) these tips will stand me in good stead coz I can't do any of them on my existing camera. Cheers!
Awesome video, totally agree with most of these, though I've stopped using a dedicated AF-ON button myself after years of doing so, it's just less necessary with modern mirrorless autofocus. On another note I'm curious if you've tried something like the Spider Holster vs the custom strap. I think it's the single best investment / value for the money of anything I've bought camera-wise. Especially if you shoot with two cameras as I often need to. They're just such a more comfortable way of keeping the camera on the body. I'd be really curious to see reviews and deep dives into the various hold-camera-on-body devices out there
Use the Camera Connect app on your phone to set the time and date on the camera. Way more accurate that way.
What type phone is "Camera Connect" app shipped on?
@@peterbenson4338 Both Android and IOS
I just realized that the reason my photos have been coming out underexposed, despite the preview showing them correctly exposed, is because DRO / AUTO HDR was turned on (on my sony A7R3). So...definitely check for that. Was driving me insane.
Yes! Say NO to beeps. I tried decoupling the focus from the shutter button and wanted to like it. It just didn't work for me. When repositioning my thumb to hit that back button, I found myself simultaneously losing my grip and moving the camera enough to change the composition.
Just ordered my strap with custom emboss. Very cool product, thank you for the suggestion!
I switch from tripod to handheld fairly often, and forget to turn image stabilization off/on at least 75% of the time. Need to form that habit!
Just keep in mind, if you're planning to use vintage lenses at some point, don't turn off the feature "shoot without lens", because otherwise you'll run the risk of thinking the vintage lens its faulty and it actually isn't.
Most vintage lenses don't communicate with the camera (lack of electronic components /fillaments) and this option allows the camera to use its normal function of shooting, but because the vintage lens its entirely manual, it will work.
When you turn the feature off, the camera won't shoot and you'll think the lens its faulty
Just want to say you guy's are great! Thanks for all the help!
Really neat. I got a Sony A6000 to shoot in the mountains mostly about a year ago, and I just figured out how to do this stuff thanks to you guys helping to walk us through.
I keep the beeping in cus it helps the model know when a shot is coming and they get into pose. I've done it in silent and had models ask if I'm taking pictures. So it helps the models know when I'm taking a shot
Remember to set the correct date/time and your personal information so it gets added to the EXIF.
I also like to add frequently used functions to the custom menu.
And if your camera is ever lost or stolen there's a chance it might make it back to you...
Been using back button focus for years and love it.
6:38
For slower cameras, a fast card will also speed up your dl from a card reader, but make sure its a fast card reader and usb 3!
Put the camera in Airplane mode if you dont need to use wireless transfer it can save the battery. Program custom buttons for the exposure triangle at least for stills if you have to menu dive. Take the battery out of the camera if it wont be used for an extended period of time.
Except for with Sony Alpha cameras which will, after awhile, with the battery removed, not hold the time and date.
Re: leaving the battery out of the camera for extended periods of time
@@a56gs74 should be easy to reset the time and date ?
I learned to shut off "shoot without memory card" when I was still shooting film. With the camera I had at the time, there was no way to tell if you had film loaded or what speed it was. I shot an airshow before opening day, on the tarmac, up close and personal, with no one around, just to later find out that I had NO FILM in my camera!! I haven't made that mistake since! And I have never had that same opportunity since.
When I shot film I would rest a digit on the rewind dial which would move every time I wound on. That overcame any possibility of shooting without a film or that the film wasn't winding on properly.
I love the beeps. I couldn't live without them.
I regularly switch between photo and video mode on my R and R5. The control ring on the RF lenses gets set up to adjust exposure compensation.
Omg. 💀 The idea of Chelsea taking pictures without a memory card and finding out later is jumpstarting my entire day. 💀
...all of those photos live where left socks live.
Gee, like starting out on a road trip without filling up your gas tank.
L🤩L ... L🧐L
I once drove 100 miles to shoot with a model and then realised that I had no memory card inserted. Had everything else (flash, lens, soft boxes) but no memory card and couldn't even buy one as everywhere was closed in the area. It's never happened since.
I was out driving and saw a blue heron in a pond. Decided to go back home and grab my camera and take a chance it would still be there. It was, and I was so excited. Proceeded to start taking pics, and... no memory card in the camera. Sad trombone.
I know what that is like...... hurts
Always keep spare memory cards on your bag, pocket etc. Also have a spare battery and recharge or regularly.
I've taken to using pistol lanyards (seriously) to attach my card cases to my bag. They're made of kevlar, and use velcro to attach to the bag. Not only does it stop the 'forget the card' issue but with the value of CFexpress cards it can stop the loss of hundreds of dollars of kit.
Honestly, shooting without a memory card is something I don't usually set because I always check to make sure I have a card in the camera before I leave home or the hotel. I also make sure I have spare cards with me, as well as batteries, so there is little to no excuse that you should accidentally shoot without a card. In fact, most cameras will warn you if you don't have a card installed (they'll let you shoot, but they will usually show a red icon or explicitly tell you in words that there is no card installed or that it's not formatted).
Honestly my top things I check before I shoot is: is there a clearn memory card installed? Is my camera set to shoot at least RAW (although I shoot RAW+JPEG most of the time unless I'm running out of card space; and for those cameras with dual card slots I set it to backup everything to the second card); set my focusing mode and focus point (usually AF single point for most things) and my metering mode (usually to center weighted). These are my things I always check when I go and do a shoot. On some camras, you can set User modes with these options and I would recommend using those if you can.
Well between you and tony I'm digesting quite a bit of camera insight and i may graduate to either a Nikon or Sony in time .
Currently using a Canon slr since I'm intermediate .
And Chelsea you gave me a great idea to use one of my extra bass guitar straps for my Canon 👍
Okay first of all, you're adorable. Second of all I'm old enough to be your grandpa so don't think I'm creepy. A third, how about I give a tip for your people that will really help them get sharper images when shooting handheld. Do this even if you have vibration reduction or image stabilization on your digital camera. If your camera is cropped and you are shooting with a long lens, set the TV or shutter speed to four times the lens length. For example if you have a 300 mm lens, and you have a cropped camera then you would want the shutter speed to be at least 1/1200th or higher. If you have a full frame camera, then set it for two times the lens length. So a 300 mm lens on a full frame camera, the shutter speed should be a minimum of 1/600th or higher. It never harms an image to shoot at a higher shutter speed. If one is shooting on a tripod, all of this can be ignored, as long as your hands free on the camera in other words no hands on the camera. So you have to shoot with a timer or a remote trigger. Hope this helps have a great day.
These days auto-ISO functions can often take this into account and automatically adjust the minimum shutter speed to be no less than 1/focal length, which is the general rule of thumb for a full frame camera to get most shots sharp. Presumably they adjust this according to the 35mm-equivalent focal length on cropped sensor cameras. Furthermore they may allow you to tweak it, eg Nikon Z cameras let you adjust this to ½ or 2x the rule-of-thumb speed, depending on whether you want to really guarantee that each shot is sharp or reduce the ISO and rely more on image stabilisation.
For me I think it's a shame if you have 4-5 stops worth of image stabilisation in your lens or camera and you're just defaulting to 2 or 3 times the shutter speed that would probably get you a sharp shot even without it, because that may require a much higher ISO and significantly more noise, depending on light levels and creative aperture choice. I prefer to make use of the IS technology to keep the ISO down and fire off a few frames to ensure I get a sharp one.
@@rhythmace1 well I haven't seen the computer chip in the Canon or the Nikon that will do away with blurry images handheld with a telephoto or zoom at a high aperture. Try my rule it really works. It does require to shoot in shutter priority everybody gives you more selection on ISO because you can choose that manually. As you know the lower the eye so the better the print.
@@michaelharris3450 That's the thing, Auto-ISO settings in recent cameras may allow you to set your camera up to do *exactly* what you are suggesting, but automatically in A and P modes, so you don't have to think about it and can have control over depth of field as well. That's what I've done on my Nikon Z5, except that I've tweaked it to a lower multiplier of the basic 1/focal length formula (approx 1/4x, as opposed to your recommended 2x) to keep my images cleaner while the IBIS (usually) keeps them sharp.
@@rhythmace1 interesting! But I don't know how that would work. Most of us old codgers, learned how to shoot with cameras that were only manual. Back in the film days. So we had no automatic settings. And we had to learn how to be great photographers if we so desired, by knowing a stops. Not only what they did but how to manipulate them. Photography was a lot more mechanical, unless artistic. Now we're in an artistic mode, where amazing young photographers like yourself and focus more in composition which really makes a great picture. A famous female photographer published a book, a photo coffee table book, of her work with other famous people and celebrities. The composition the scenes the settings, we're just amazing. But the technical work was so poor, that when the pictures were even blown up large enough to be put in that book, they were not sharp and it was sort of a detriment to her work. Old school is get it right and you can print it any size. That's what made Richard Avon so great when he started printing and he was the first photographer to print 6 ft by 12 ft images that were just amazingly sharp and details. Photographers like that back in the day did not shoot and low f numbers. We kind of hung around f11. But we had rules that if we know how to break them we could break them. One of those rules is to eliminate distractions and capture the exact the size of moments. And we eliminated the distraction of blur by shooting mostly on a tripod and f11. That way when the shutter got too slow we wouldn't have a camera shake. But please don't let this thread detract from your amazing work and ability.
@@michaelharris3450 To be honest I happily used the same camera for 6 years and had not kept abreast of technological developments, so the new capability is new to me too.
I'm not sure how familiar you are with "traditional" Auto-ISO settings, but they basically manage your ISO for you by automatically increasing it if a correct exposure cannot be achieved at the current exposure settings, and turn ISO into an automatable exposure variable like aperture and shutter speed already are. Where aperture and shutter speed are variable according to PASM mode it will first adjust these as far as possible, and only then increase the ISO if necessary. Obviously your lens provides a hard limit on the maximum aperture, but the Auto-ISO settings usually provide a minimum shutter speed parameter so than when shutter speed is the automated variable (in A mode etc) that it can't get too low. Now, recent cameras have improved on the options for minimum shutter speed so instead of a fixed absolute value they can automatically determine the slowest speed they should allow before boosting ISO based on the current focal length the camera is reading from the lens. In this way it won't boost your ISO up as much with a wide-angle lens as it would with a tele, potentially giving you less noisy images while hopefully still keeping everything sharp.
I know what you mean about all the automation, I have at time felt like I was cheating with some of these settings! But on the whole, while I can romanticise about the sheer technical skill that used to be required with all-manual operation, as you say I think that anything that lets photographers concentrate on their artistic vision and composition is a good thing. When I first got interested in photography in the 80s my Dad gave me a little pocket exposure calculator wheel he'd made in the 50s, and it's fun to think of all the thought and preparation that used to have to go into getting a half decent shot using a hand-held meter and manual settings, and there's more than a little nostalgia there for me, but I'm so glad we don't *have to* do that any more!
Disable image preview. For a used camera, go through the menus and reset everything back to factory defaults.
Good video, thanks! Am currently waiting for delivery of a Canon 90d, and in watching this, was curious about what the editing software was that you were using at just past 2:00?
Great video Chelsea. I've been busy and missed you LOL! I haven't seen you or Tony's videos for 6 or 12 months.You two are amazing Pros.
nice looking strap.... I never wear a "steal me.. I'm a Canon" etc. strap.
Actually...the thieves target "Canon" straps...
Adding to number three - most manufacturers today add jpeg to the RAW anyway - it's what is shown as the preview of the jpeg on the LCD panel. Check your RAW and if the jpeg is inside, you can shoot purely RAW, as you can always get the jpeg out in your photo editor. This can save a substantial amount of space on your memory card.
I just found this channel, Love the content. I do exactly the same thing using my SD cards as off Mac storage for my pics, I only reformat my cards perhaps about once a year.
Thanks Chelsea for great contents as always and I love that strap
Great advice on all points. i've found having a strap with a loud, large camera brand name can draw unwelcome attention in situations such as during some protests photographers are either unwelcome or actively discouraged.
I just can't get into back-button-focus. Using two buttons instead of one seems confusing. I tried BBF for a while, but I kept missing shots because I forgot to hit the focus button before shooting. To each his/her own, but I prefer the default way of shooting.
You didn't do it long enough to reset your physical memory, in that case. If you had actually kept with it, you'd have the reverse problem...that a camera that focuses when the shutter button would feel foreign to you.
@@BruceRichardsonMusic Actually, I'm still using BBF. It's been about 6 months now and I'm still missing shots because of it. I'm stubborn and should probably go back to the 'regular' way.
Thank you very much for your great advice. When I get a new battery I will take advantage of it. Thank you!
I just got a 90D last week and went through this entire ritual. Thanks for all the great information!
That's a great camera! Enjoy it!
@@jimtipton8888 I already got a chance to take it out attached to the 400MM f/5.6 prime. Now I'm waiting for the full moon on the 26th.
@@swistedfilms That’s awesome! Mine lives with a 100-400 on it and it’s my go to for wildlife.