I really enjoyed watching your process of building a huge solar air heater! Thank you. I am glad it is working so well producing 200 F of heat. Awesome! Similarly, I bought scaffolding for house renovations and I am presently building a 780 can heater on the 2nd floor southern exterior wall. My 5 steel box units are all bolted directly to the vertical studs of the house. Each unit is 6 foot tall by 3 feet wide insulated with 2" foam. My header and footer are made of alunimum downspouts drilled with 1 1/2" hole saw. I am excited to see my heat output when it is -20 C (-4 F) but brillantly sunny next winter.
Thanks. That is how I built, from the best of all the designs out there. Tried to review as many as I could. There are a lot of good designs really. Do what works for you and what material you have.
Very clean job. I have made a few of these and lots of solar ovens, and I can say you do not need High-Temp paint, it is not your best choice. Blackboard paint works better than anything I have tried. You never get hot enough in one of these to need the high-temp paint plus that paint is shiny blackboard paint is flat black and it absorbs heat better.
Trouble is where i am we dont get enough sun, i have some small ones which works fine on non heated sheds and game room but more dehumidifier that warms up a little but absolutely keeps them from damp. They heat up now to 50-55°c but fan pulls that heat out in 2 mins so not good enough to heat house, bigher like this would be good but i wonder how long it would take to get a decent temp
Very good video ~ a thought about the weight ~ Have seen other unrelated projects make of foam board insulation. That board was covered with window screen and then painted, with house paint or primer ( not spray paint.) The result was a very stiff, strong and light weight material. I’m wondering if that could be used for this project instead of wood. ‘ just an idea ~ comments welcome. 🙂
The weight on this was in the glass more than anything else. the wood is pretty thin. Really try anything, there are so many ways to do this, that is the beauty.
I just built my first and its been up and running for 3 weeks now. Im getting the same temps as the OP. I too used a wood frame but I used 3 layers of aluminum screen mesh instead of pop cans. As the OP says.. the weight is in the glass. Many others use Polyethylene plastic that is 1/10 the weight of glass but is getting very expensive these days. The next one I do will be all 1" high temp, foil backed ridged foam. I will use the glass again because I have plenty.. but I don't see the need to use wood or aluminum frame at all.
Nice setup , but this isn't the most efficient design ....A fellow made one the did extensive scientific testing on it ... After several attempts he almost Doubled the efficiency of this style of heater ... High temp out of the exhaust vent is only half the story, you need to move more CFMs at the highest temps achievable...The baffled cans do need to be opened up to reduce the restrictive air friction & need to add a second fan into the air inlet vent ... There is something else I can't quite remember off the top of my head needs done also , but even with slightly reduced head temperature the amount of heated air CFMs caused the efficiency of the air moved to be almost double of the amount of BTUs introduced ed into the building ...If I can find his videos I will forward them to you ...You have a pretty good design you are using , but I'm sure you'd appreciate almost doubling your efficiency of your solar heater if possible .... Thanks for listening ... I'm not trying to tell you how to do things , just trying to lend a hand where I think the advice & a helping hand can do some good & help someone who is trying to improve their situation ...👍👍👋👋
I will have to do a follow up video because I found the same thing. I put another fan on the intake and it did move a lot more air into the house. Thanks
@@all14000 Yes it does , but also the cans need to be opened completely up to reduce the co-efficient drag ( friction ) because the more drag there is the more drop in temperature at the exhaust head . Move air too fast the temp drops exponentially. You have to find the sweet spot between highest temp & air speed ( volume ) otherwise the more airspeed the lower temp , it just becomes a trade off. Too much air starts to be a trade off...That photovoltaic cell is a great idea , just set it & forget it ...Solar panel to run the fans actually only cost about $0.01 per day to run , he figured it wasn't fiscally sound & worth the expense of solar powering it to run the fans & photo cell to justify the cost because it was just so inexpensive to run them on a/c 110 volts ... But like I said there was something else he did too the brought the efficiency to it's max ...The actual figure on how much was about 70 % more , which factored In becomes quite a lot & totally worth it ...Believe it or not 30 to 40 years ago one of my uncles tried a little experiment with passive solar panel. Built a long narrow box blacked out & insulated & mounted it to the south side of his house & cut two holes in his house. Back then everyone just laughed & said how crazy he was to do that & he was just going to let more cold air from outside in & he would regret it .Well , long story short I went to his house & sure enough with no fans hooked up you could feel the warm draft just from the passive solar panel just like he said it would , enough so his heating bill did go down...
If you put a backdraft damper in one of the holes, it should keep most cold out. However there is some coldness around the hole. In the overall equation it is insignificant. Summer I will just keep it turned off. Same response as winter, it will be a bit hotter near one of the holes, but not really too bad. Make sure to use a really good backdraft damper. You can get them on Amazon.
I wonder if, when possible, it wouldn't be beneficial to install it inside home or flat instead of outside? Sitcked to windows glasses. There will be no outside cold air effects or less effective cold effects from the inside windows glasses.
Thanks , maximum power = sensor metal as thin as possible, aluminum (λ = 200), copper is better but expensive (λ = 360), steel is bad (λ = 60), surface as large as possible, glass the best more transparent to infrared lengths, directed towards solar noon and possibly tilted according to latitude so that the winter sun strikes as perpendicularly as possible. Heat Output = (λ x Sensor Area x Delta Temperatures) / Sensor Metal Thickness The lambda λ or thermal conductivity of a material, expressed (in W/mK), represents the ability of a material to conduct heat. It should also be noted that the smaller the distance between the glass, the less loss there is. I think you shouldn't paint the bottom black but let the shiny aluminum bottom reflect the heat behind the cans
Wondering if you put 2 rows of cans offset (can between cans below) if it would give off more heat than a single row due to more air space? HVAC foil tape would hold those cans together.
I think I have the heat maxed out. At over 200 degrees, there is no more to do. Foil tape might work also but I liked the seal made with the high temp silicone.
I live in between Himalayan and pir panjal mountain range and it's harsh winters and summers that even table fans can vent off but I guess during snowy day or forecast this heater won't do good for me ?
What criteria did you use to conclude that your DIY panel outperformed the commercial unit? Air temp at the outlet is only a part of the equation. How much volume of air was pushed through each, how many BTU's of heat? What criteria did you use to conclude that the build you used was the most effective, efficient? This is not a criticism, but I am considering such a build, and would like to find out as much info as possible as part of my own research.
Hello Walt, You are correct regarding the fan and output. I would recommend a fan with significant throughput. If I redesigned I would use a 100 watt panel for the fan. At least a 70+ CFM fan if possible. The build I did a lot of research on designs out there. There are a whole bunch of criteria on how to design the cans. I found for the same fan power, the heat output on my home made unit was better (both higher temp and higher fan speed) the volume was in the same hole size. I get higher temps and more output now. I will make a follow up video to show the things I did to update this (like adding a larger PV panel). I also had to put in a temperature sensor inside the panel, so the fan would not come on too early (and blow cold air into the room). I would recommend that also.
I used a CFM fan that was inadequate. I would recommend as high a level as you can get. I have put in 2 more fans to augment the one I have. I think 120-200fpm
good project man! I have two questions: 1) why did you make three holes in the cans instead of one big one?2)IIf i use rock wool as box insulation is it okay? thanks for all and congratulations from Italy
@@all14000 Thanks for the quick respinse an sorry for my english. I have another qyestion...Why you made so many tubes of cans instead of a single long tube of cans using fittings? thanks thanks thanks 👋
@@all14000 Maybe I did not say it clear enough. I just wanted to say why you didn't join the various tubes together to form a single continuous tube. The amount of metal inside the air box remains the same. Thanks again
Question, and forgive me if you mentioned this and I missed it. What do you do in the summer? Maine gets plenty hot, certainly enough to not want more heat! I want to do this for my age, but I need to be able to NOT heat it in the summer! (Long Island here) Thanks!
@@BenNawrath There is a one way flap in the outtake tube that prevent thermal cycling of the system. It closed the hatch so to speak and closes the system.
Looks like ALOT of work. I build a 4x8 fly screen collector. Yours looks great once it’s done. I used thermal pane glass. I wouldn’t do that again. To heavy. But it does get up to 60c I’m in NB if you want to see what I did . Hook me up on Facebook. Thx
I saw someone place their fan on the cold input side rather than on the hot output side. I can't think of a reason the fan wouldn't be more or less efficient other than perhaps some fans are designed for pushing into a tube vs pulling out of a tube?
@@eideticgoone7035 After performance this winter, I am thinking of moving the fan to push from the cold side. In theory it should work almost as well. It will also keep the heat from shortening the life of the fan.
What about a diesel heater, I’ve seen people put a hole through the wall and have the diesel heater on the outside. Heats up a room quickly. The advantages you have a pump that runs on very little electricity.
@@all14000 If you have a better idea I’d love to hear it? One thing Michael Moore’s movie proved, was that you need fossil fuels to make the World green. Now he’s being attacked by cancel culture, where they won’t let his movie play, because it won’t mesh with their carbon green program.
Hello Ben, I am not sure of what you are trying to say. Not really interested in having a long internet conversation about this. I am trying to show people how you can make your home 100% off fossil fuels, which I have done, by example at my house, with a very limited budget.
@@all14000 The point I’m trying to make, is if you live in the Pacific Northwest and you’re using mostly solar, the amount of wattage you have to use to fire up your gas furnace or electric heater makes it very expensive! That’s why am looking at low wattage alternatives. Take care
liked your video. there's some things I've noticed no one doing. no one seems to be insulating their boxes. a box within a box. And most people are putting these units on above ground houses. there's an old guy who made a type of greenhouse that grows Citrus and Alliance Nebraska. he basically harnessed the Earth's natural temperature and used air tubes into the ground. I was thinking if a guy was to take these solar can heaters and place them below lower than the individual's house. then the cold air would be forced in. and the warm air would be easily pushed into the building. requiring less energy for the fan. someday I'd like to build a house that's integrated into the hillside. anyhow have a good day.
Hello, glad you liked this. I do have insulation on the back sides and top and bottom, so I am not sure what you are discussing? I think this could work for any house, above ground or underground. as long as you insulate the heating pipe to the home it can be mounted on the roof and go through the attic.s
@@all14000 in general I would never put something like this on the roof of the house. Because it would go against how hot and cold wants to flow. thus requiring more energy to function. I guess the one exception would be if it was a warehouse building. All that square footage on the roof as long. As it was designed to hold some weight. I guess it could be used for solar Air Heating but it would require more energy to make the system accurately function. As far as the underground system goes. If you go 8 ft underground with 6 in air pipe and zigzag it through the lawn you get a steady temperature of 50°. so it's like getting free AC or augmenting your heating system with just air running through a pipe. I figured if you take that design of greenhouse and use some of that same line of thinking to build a house into the sloping Hillside. And a set of the aluminum can solar heaters would be at the very bottom of the whole setup. basically a tube taking the air from the back of the house with a slight slope downhill. And depositing it in the solar heaters that are lower than the house. so the natural thermal process would be augmented. Requiring less overall energy to run the system.
You wasted alotta elbow work messin' with those cans. They don't make any better heat than just a plain black back board. I get 200 degrees from mine too & have to use a high velocity blower to keep the cabinet temp to 120 but is a bit noisy. Got my 2 solar heaters & water heaters on my channel.
good video on the Solar thermal air heating panel build But Sorry could you take the mask off I have the volume turned up on the TH-cam and my computer and my TV to full blast and still can barely hear you unmuzzle yourself please. It gets better in spots in video !! thou your video is Still better then them video with ear piercing music that you lose focuses because of bad music
@@all14000 did you build your wood stove? Wood stoves are usually inspected and certified safe for use by government agencies. That's why they are insurable. Do you think your insurance will cover your home in the event that something you made caused a fire? Did you tell them you have this installed? When you did, did they send out an inspector to okay the install? That's the process for a wood stove. That's the process for any change a homeowner makes to a home. You have to sometimes pay extra for a wood stove to be insured in a home. Are you paying extra for this?
@@roflstomps324 My wood stove is store bought and installed. I do not think this will cause any fire, since it cannot heat that high and only has 12 v fan.
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This is great, Paul!
I really enjoyed watching your process of building a huge solar air heater! Thank you. I am glad it is working so well producing 200 F of heat. Awesome!
Similarly, I bought scaffolding for house renovations and I am presently building a 780 can heater on the 2nd floor southern exterior wall. My 5 steel box units are all bolted directly to the vertical studs of the house. Each unit is 6 foot tall by 3 feet wide insulated with 2" foam. My header and footer are made of alunimum downspouts drilled with 1 1/2" hole saw.
I am excited to see my heat output when it is -20 C (-4 F) but brillantly sunny next winter.
i would like to see the results
How did it work?
Great project! Where I live we don't need much heat but I'd like to try something like this
Much more sophisticated than other videos
Best one yet and I have seen a lot of designs.
Thanks. That is how I built, from the best of all the designs out there. Tried to review as many as I could. There are a lot of good designs really. Do what works for you and what material you have.
Great job!
Great 👌 tutorial and it's like reaching a man to fish instead of giving him the fish 🙏👍
Very clean job. I have made a few of these and lots of solar ovens, and I can say you do not need High-Temp paint, it is not your best choice. Blackboard paint works better than anything I have tried. You never get hot enough in one of these to need the high-temp paint plus that paint is shiny blackboard paint is flat black and it absorbs heat better.
Thanks for the comments. It is a good learning process and always great to hear how others do things.
Some good ideas here!
Nice job.
Love it
Nice.
nice work
Thank you
Trouble is where i am we dont get enough sun, i have some small ones which works fine on non heated sheds and game room but more dehumidifier that warms up a little but absolutely keeps them from damp. They heat up now to 50-55°c but fan pulls that heat out in 2 mins so not good enough to heat house, bigher like this would be good but i wonder how long it would take to get a decent temp
Very good video ~ a thought about the weight ~ Have seen other unrelated projects make of foam board insulation. That board was covered with window screen and then painted, with house paint or primer ( not spray paint.) The result was a very stiff, strong and light weight material. I’m wondering if that could be used for this project instead of wood. ‘ just an idea ~ comments welcome. 🙂
The weight on this was in the glass more than anything else. the wood is pretty thin. Really try anything, there are so many ways to do this, that is the beauty.
Yeah good idea. Just has to be water and storm proof. Actually the glass was the heaviest part.
I just built my first and its been up and running for 3 weeks now. Im getting the same temps as the OP. I too used a wood frame but I used 3 layers of aluminum screen mesh instead of pop cans. As the OP says.. the weight is in the glass. Many others use Polyethylene plastic that is 1/10 the weight of glass but is getting very expensive these days. The next one I do will be all 1" high temp, foil backed ridged foam. I will use the glass again because I have plenty.. but I don't see the need to use wood or aluminum frame at all.
I think this could have been made lighter for sure. Whatever works really. Mine will sit on the house for 25-30 years, so I wanted to make it strong.
Nice setup , but this isn't the most efficient design ....A fellow made one the did extensive scientific testing on it ... After several attempts he almost Doubled the efficiency of this style of heater ... High temp out of the exhaust vent is only half the story, you need to move more CFMs at the highest temps achievable...The baffled cans do need to be opened up to reduce the restrictive air friction & need to add a second fan into the air inlet vent ... There is something else I can't quite remember off the top of my head needs done also , but even with slightly reduced head temperature the amount of heated air CFMs caused the efficiency of the air moved to be almost double of the amount of BTUs introduced ed into the building ...If I can find his videos I will forward them to you ...You have a pretty good design you are using , but I'm sure you'd appreciate almost doubling your efficiency of your solar heater if possible .... Thanks for listening ... I'm not trying to tell you how to do things , just trying to lend a hand where I think the advice & a helping hand can do some good & help someone who is trying to improve their situation ...👍👍👋👋
I will have to do a follow up video because I found the same thing. I put another fan on the intake and it did move a lot more air into the house. Thanks
@@all14000 Yes it does , but also the cans need to be opened completely up to reduce the co-efficient drag ( friction ) because the more drag there is the more drop in temperature at the exhaust head . Move air too fast the temp drops exponentially. You have to find the sweet spot between highest temp & air speed ( volume ) otherwise the more airspeed the lower temp , it just becomes a trade off. Too much air starts to be a trade off...That photovoltaic cell is a great idea , just set it & forget it ...Solar panel to run the fans actually only cost about $0.01 per day to run , he figured it wasn't fiscally sound & worth the expense of solar powering it to run the fans & photo cell to justify the cost because it was just so inexpensive to run them on a/c 110 volts ... But like I said there was something else he did too the brought the efficiency to it's max ...The actual figure on how much was about 70 % more , which factored In becomes quite a lot & totally worth it ...Believe it or not 30 to 40 years ago one of my uncles tried a little experiment with passive solar panel. Built a long narrow box blacked out & insulated & mounted it to the south side of his house & cut two holes in his house. Back then everyone just laughed & said how crazy he was to do that & he was just going to let more cold air from outside in & he would regret it .Well , long story short I went to his house & sure enough with no fans hooked up you could feel the warm draft just from the passive solar panel just like he said it would , enough so his heating bill did go down...
Curious about your experience with the unit on cold nights. Also what is the plan for summer, will you cover it up?
If you put a backdraft damper in one of the holes, it should keep most cold out. However there is some coldness around the hole. In the overall equation it is insignificant. Summer I will just keep it turned off. Same response as winter, it will be a bit hotter near one of the holes, but not really too bad. Make sure to use a really good backdraft damper. You can get them on Amazon.
I wonder if, when possible, it wouldn't be beneficial to install it inside home or flat instead of outside?
Sitcked to windows glasses.
There will be no outside cold air effects or less effective cold effects from the inside windows glasses.
In summer what keeps it from burning your house down?
Thanks ,
maximum power = sensor metal as thin as possible, aluminum (λ = 200), copper is better but expensive (λ = 360), steel is bad (λ = 60), surface as large as possible, glass the best more transparent to infrared lengths, directed towards solar noon and possibly tilted according to latitude so that the winter sun strikes as perpendicularly as possible.
Heat Output = (λ x Sensor Area x Delta Temperatures) / Sensor Metal Thickness
The lambda λ or thermal conductivity of a material, expressed (in W/mK), represents the ability of a material to conduct heat.
It should also be noted that the smaller the distance between the glass, the less loss there is.
I think you shouldn't paint the bottom black but let the shiny aluminum bottom reflect the heat behind the cans
Thanks for the great info.
Wondering if you put 2 rows of cans offset (can between cans below) if it would give off more heat than a single row due to more air space? HVAC foil tape would hold those cans together.
I think I have the heat maxed out. At over 200 degrees, there is no more to do. Foil tape might work also but I liked the seal made with the high temp silicone.
I live in between Himalayan and pir panjal mountain range and it's harsh winters and summers that even table fans can vent off but I guess during snowy day or forecast this heater won't do good for me ?
It is a "solar" heater after all. I guess you could use any excess heat on good days to heat rocks for heat during the night.
What criteria did you use to conclude that your DIY panel outperformed the commercial unit? Air temp at the outlet is only a part of the equation. How much volume of air was pushed through each, how many BTU's of heat? What criteria did you use to conclude that the build you used was the most effective, efficient? This is not a criticism, but I am considering such a build, and would like to find out as much info as possible as part of my own research.
Hello Walt, You are correct regarding the fan and output. I would recommend a fan with significant throughput. If I redesigned I would use a 100 watt panel for the fan. At least a 70+ CFM fan if possible. The build I did a lot of research on designs out there. There are a whole bunch of criteria on how to design the cans. I found for the same fan power, the heat output on my home made unit was better (both higher temp and higher fan speed) the volume was in the same hole size. I get higher temps and more output now. I will make a follow up video to show the things I did to update this (like adding a larger PV panel). I also had to put in a temperature sensor inside the panel, so the fan would not come on too early (and blow cold air into the room). I would recommend that also.
I used a CFM fan that was inadequate. I would recommend as high a level as you can get. I have put in 2 more fans to augment the one I have. I think 120-200fpm
Could you fill the dead space air between the glass and the cans with with a greenhouse gas?
Why would I do that? Dead Air space is an excellent insulator, that is what you want.
@@all14000 It's a better insulator
You would have to be absolutely sure each and every seam is perfectly airtight if you did that.
It would be cost prohibitive, but thin copper tubes would be a good collective rad
They work great in solar water systems.
good project man! I have two questions: 1) why did you make three holes in the cans instead of one big one?2)IIf i use rock wool as box insulation is it okay? thanks for all and congratulations from Italy
3 holes disrupted the air flow, so more thermal heat transfer could happen. I think rock insulation should work fine.
@@all14000 Thanks for the quick respinse an sorry for my english. I have another qyestion...Why you made so many tubes of cans instead of a single long tube of cans using fittings? thanks thanks thanks 👋
@@MattiaRaggiDrum the more metal in the air box, the more thermal exchange. So I filled it up.
@@all14000 Maybe I did not say it clear enough. I just wanted to say why you didn't join the various tubes together to form a single continuous tube. The amount of metal inside the air box remains the same. Thanks again
@@MattiaRaggiDrum oh I wanted to use old soda cans that I collected from the roadway. Recycle
Are your solar panels off grid or on a battery system? If on battery, what system did you go with?
I will be making a new video on the electric system in the next few weeks, stay tuned.
Question, and forgive me if you mentioned this and I missed it. What do you do in the summer? Maine gets plenty hot, certainly enough to not want more heat! I want to do this for my age, but I need to be able to NOT heat it in the summer! (Long Island here)
Thanks!
I turn the system off in the summer of course
@@all14000 well yeah, but do you just turn off the fan and close the flaps? Any other measures to stop hot air from coming in?
@@BenNawrath I have since made a thermostat control of the fan based on temperature or a thermal probe in the unit.
@@all14000 nice! So just stopping the fan is enough to stop it from heating the room?
@@BenNawrath There is a one way flap in the outtake tube that prevent thermal cycling of the system. It closed the hatch so to speak and closes the system.
Can we use the idea of solar thermal storage in this project ?
Storage would be based on house insulation I suppose.
How do you keep parts of the fan from melting is air temp can reach as high as 200 F?
Hello Dorathy, so far they have not melted. Though I think the motor will not last as long as it’s normal life.
I have been having problems with high temps and the fan motor. I have not figured it out yet but am tossing around some ideas.
Looks like ALOT of work. I build a 4x8 fly screen collector. Yours looks great once it’s done. I used thermal pane glass. I wouldn’t do that again. To heavy. But it does get up to 60c I’m in NB if you want to see what I did . Hook me up on Facebook. Thx
I saw someone place their fan on the cold input side rather than on the hot output side.
I can't think of a reason the fan wouldn't be more or less efficient other than perhaps some fans are designed for pushing into a tube vs pulling out of a tube?
@@eideticgoone7035 After performance this winter, I am thinking of moving the fan to push from the cold side. In theory it should work almost as well. It will also keep the heat from shortening the life of the fan.
How much heat does these things put out without Sun light?
No heat without sun
What about a diesel heater, I’ve seen people put a hole through the wall and have the diesel heater on the outside. Heats up a room quickly. The advantages you have a pump that runs on very little electricity.
Hello Ben, the whole point is to get off fossil fuels that pollute, so I would not recommend it.
@@all14000
If you have a better idea I’d love to hear it? One thing Michael Moore’s movie proved, was that you need fossil fuels to make the World green.
Now he’s being attacked by cancel culture, where they won’t let his movie play, because it won’t mesh with their carbon green program.
Hello Ben,
I am not sure of what you are trying to say. Not really interested in having a long internet conversation about this. I am trying to show people how you can make your home 100% off fossil fuels, which I have done, by example at my house, with a very limited budget.
@@all14000
The point I’m trying to make, is if you live in the Pacific Northwest and you’re using mostly solar, the amount of wattage you have to use to fire up your gas furnace or electric heater makes it very expensive! That’s why am looking at low wattage alternatives. Take care
liked your video. there's some things I've noticed no one doing. no one seems to be insulating their boxes. a box within a box.
And most people are putting these units on above ground houses.
there's an old guy who made a type of greenhouse that grows Citrus and Alliance Nebraska.
he basically harnessed the Earth's natural temperature and used air tubes into the ground.
I was thinking if a guy was to take these solar can heaters and place them below lower than the individual's house.
then the cold air would be forced in. and the warm air would be easily pushed into the building. requiring less energy for the fan.
someday I'd like to build a house that's integrated into the hillside.
anyhow have a good day.
Hello, glad you liked this. I do have insulation on the back sides and top and bottom, so I am not sure what you are discussing? I think this could work for any house, above ground or underground. as long as you insulate the heating pipe to the home it can be mounted on the roof and go through the attic.s
@@all14000 what section of the video did you put the insulation in? And what type of insulation was it? What was its fire resistance?
@@all14000 in general I would never put something like this on the roof of the house. Because it would go against how hot and cold wants to flow. thus requiring more energy to function.
I guess the one exception would be if it was a warehouse building. All that square footage on the roof as long. As it was designed to hold some weight. I guess it could be used for solar Air Heating but it would require more energy to make the system accurately function.
As far as the underground system goes.
If you go 8 ft underground with 6 in air pipe and zigzag it through the lawn you get a steady temperature of 50°. so it's like getting free AC or augmenting your heating system with just air running through a pipe.
I figured if you take that design of greenhouse and use some of that same line of thinking to build a house into the sloping Hillside.
And a set of the aluminum can solar heaters would be at the very bottom of the whole setup. basically a tube taking the air from the back of the house with a slight slope downhill. And depositing it in the solar heaters that are lower than the house. so the natural thermal process would be augmented.
Requiring less overall energy to run the system.
@@otrogreandcorgi9818 I put in insulation, you have to watch. I used a foam board that is R5. Not sure about the fire resistance.
@@otrogreandcorgi9818 You are talking about geothermal.
Why not paint them white around the perimeters and lines in the centres to match the windows....
Yes that would be nice looking also.
The attic view doesn’t seem to have any visible insulation. Shouldn’t you be super insulating your attic?
Yes my attic in the house has a lot of insulation but the garage has none.
You should always insulate the ceiling with or without solar heating.
Instead of drilling just rub on sandpaper to remove the bottom
You wasted alotta elbow work messin' with those cans. They don't make any better heat than just a plain black back board. I get 200 degrees from mine too & have to use a high velocity blower to keep the cabinet temp to 120 but is a bit noisy. Got my 2 solar heaters & water heaters on my channel.
Glad you are enjoying solar heating.
YOU NEED TO SPEAK UP LOUDER
good video on the Solar thermal air heating panel build But Sorry could you take the mask off I have the volume turned up on the TH-cam and my computer and my TV to full blast and still can barely hear you unmuzzle yourself please. It gets better in spots in video !! thou your video is Still better then them video with ear piercing music that you lose focuses because of bad music
I like Fossil fuel but I heat my house with about 3 1\2 tons of coal
What do you figure your total cost was to build this?
And how much was the commercial one in cost comparison.
I'm going to build one of these
Warning: Dick head question. How does your insurance company feel about this if it were to say, catch fire?
Just like anything else, I have a wood stove and if I left a glove on that stove and started a fire, it would suck but they would eventually pay.
@@all14000 did you build your wood stove? Wood stoves are usually inspected and certified safe for use by government agencies. That's why they are insurable.
Do you think your insurance will cover your home in the event that something you made caused a fire? Did you tell them you have this installed? When you did, did they send out an inspector to okay the install? That's the process for a wood stove. That's the process for any change a homeowner makes to a home.
You have to sometimes pay extra for a wood stove to be insured in a home. Are you paying extra for this?
@@roflstomps324 My wood stove is store bought and installed. I do not think this will cause any fire, since it cannot heat that high and only has 12 v fan.
@@all14000 I guess it depends on location. Where in the world are you located?
@@roflstomps324 Maine USA
Another totally wrong design from the DIY crowd. None of these experimenters knows the first thing about Physics!