DIY Solar Air Heater! The "STEEL PANEL" Solar Air Heater! -New! biggest! hottest! Best Yet! EZ Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2024
- video shows How to Make a Solar Thermal Air Heater using Corrugated Steel Panels. This design is the biggest (and likely the most powerful) solar air heater i've made. during the testing, the unit heated air from 50F(10C) to 145F(63C) in only 6 mins! ...*with unit sustaining that temp - w/fan running full blast. fan is a 92mm 12v computer case fan (solar panel powered). it draws about 3 watts - so a 12v 5w (or larger) panel will run it strong all day. To use the unit: just drop it in the sun *and pipe the flexible vent tube into the area you want to heat. A note about the build: to make it easy for anyone to build, every step is laid out in a "clear and orderly" fashion. ...and to help jam-pack it with the most info, several segments are filmed in fast-motion. (so more info - in less time!). items needed: the items needed are shown (in list form) both before AND after the build (the list shown after the build - in the last 30 seconds of the video - contains slightly more detail). about the steel panels: the steel panels i used are pre-cut and sold in 3-packs at home depot. company name is amerimax. *you can, of course, buy those types of corrugated steel panels in bigger sizes and cut them down to match your needs (to match the size of glass you're able to get). i usually recommend that you first figure out what size glass panels you're able to get *and then size the steel panel or panels accordingly. The biggest piece of glass i can get (at a reasonable price) is 30" by 36" (from lowes). since they cut glass, i have them cut off 2.5" which leaves a 27.5" by 36" glass panel *the perfect size for the pre-cut steel panels.
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Corrugated steel is an undervalued option for heating. I heat my soaking hot tub with a panel using it. I left it shiny metal in an insulated box, black painted 1/2" CPVC risers with 3/4" top and bottom manifolds. The risers sit every other corrugation, and the sun reflects from surrounding angles under a $5 insulated glass panel from Habitat. A relatively small inline pump with screen filter pushes water from the insulated stock tank through the panel, then simply dumps it back in. From cold well water, it takes until the third day to have 104-105 degrees soaking water in the 180 gallon tank. After that, as long as I cover it overnight, a sunny day keeps it hot enough to soak after a long day. Submersible LED lights with rechargeable batteries make it delightful for my wife and myself. Tub sanitizer is 35% food grade hydrogen peroxide (not toxic chemicals), and keeps the tub clean for weeks before water change, and it's clean enough for plants in the greenhouse at that point.
I really like how you start your videos with the results of the build.
I really want to build this one day. Thank you so much for building amazing projects and sharing them with us. I was so excited to see this new update. God bless you.
should have installed the fan from the back on the outside. Easier repeated access if you need to replace the fan later. Great video and interesting concept
I like it - simple straightforward.
A little trick, when using a holesaw, SLOW DOWN. Repeatedly pull back a bit so the teeth will clear. Thats why your holes are burning through
Good info as usual. I have to credit you for using the old school screw driver it's been a long long time since I have seen anyone using one on a you tube video.
And you do these in your home, that's awesome. Either you are a bachelor or you have a good wife.
I enjoy your films and appreciate your sharing them.
Shine on.
hi. i decided to use the old school screwdriver because i didn't want to risk splitting the wood. (plus it's only a few screws) 🙂
you should use a intake from the area from where you plan on heating with it . That way it will draw preheated air
Nice I plan on doing this too thanks!
Nice one man! I sure enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for all the great ideas :)
hey and thanks! i meant to get this one out around x-mas. things kept coming up. i'm glad you like them.
I like your build. I would use your build and look for ways to improve on it. By making an isulated wrap around the exposed area to prevent the outside cold air from competing with the heated area one would come to the conclusion that you would bring in a warmer air, thereby, making your unit a more productive heating unit. I would use an insulation named Roxul because it will not mold if it gets wet. Thanks for giving me a starting point. You do great presentations.
I’m going to use mine for my shed .
Great guide! ...for me, sometimes it is better to use screws instead of glue for possible repairs(fan etc..) :-)
Good job!
If you want to use it to heat up your room, one 4 inch intake is all you need. No needs to drill bunch of holes at the bottom of the box. I made 2 of them, worked good.
Were you able to get the same kind of temperature readings he was getting? Also, did you pipe the output into a wall or roof, did you insulate that pipe?
I built one of the downspout versions for use on the top of my campervan. In my testing I found that if the unit was lying flat, temps would be 30-40 degrees cooler that when it was vertical or at an angle. Using baffles in the downspout helped but slowing the fan helped more. From 65 to 90 horizontal(but remember there's a decent sized heat loss moving the hot air) and from 65 to 130 at 45 degree angle.
the temperature x volume of media heated is what you need to look at , not just the raw temp. Slowing the fan will always increase the temperature, but still be the same amount of total BTU's as before (more volume at a lower temp can could be the same btu's as less volume at a higher temp)
you want to create a zigzag pattern with the downspouts and lay it horizontally so that the air has to bake longer before it comes out of the fan.
Good to see another video from you. I always look forward to them. Do you have an opinion as to how well this would work compared to the screen one you made before? Any chance at a side by side like you did before on the others?
I like the idea you built...simple and nice. However, I wonder if adding isolation stuff on the rear side of the panel, would contribute to reducing heat losses ?
Interesting.
I wonder- Warm air rises, right? And there's at least one other comment telling about when such a unit is lying flat, it accumulates less heat than when set upright. Would the air in the unit perhaps get heated more if it would take longer to rise up to the exit point? So if the air would need to go through a longer zig-zag maze trajectory over the corrugated metal surface, might it heat up even more?
Great project I made one of these 4 years ago and it has been on my shop wall ever since. It runs everyday without fail, providing there is sunny skies. It is similar to the amount of air you get from a dryer vent when drying close, but it is enough to take the edge off during the freezing winter months.
Very cool!
Make a dryer out of it. I seen someone use his green house to create the heat and solar panels to turn the tumbler. Save a ton of cash with your design and super simple. Could daisy them up to have two or three for faster dry time
excellent project. i recently made a house air filtration system to stop smoke getting into. what i learned is that there is a massive difference to how system performs in relation to either positive or negative pressure. in your system the fan creates negative pressure inside the heater. thus moving only some of the air. if the fan was to push the air into the heater, the pressure would have been positive and all air would have been exchanged - probably higher efficiency. regardless - great job!
hi. i can't tell you the physics of but if you try to push air into these collectors almost no heated air will come out at the top. it won't work. it acts almost like a wall or barrier. the fan will work really hard but move almost no air into your house. you've got to draw the air through the collector by putting the fan at top (as shown in video) and pulling the air through the collector.
Would be interesting to calculate how efficent it is. For me as an energy engeneer this simple build works well in both theory (if you do the math on radiation laws, Stefan Boltzmanns law) and in practice as you show in the start of the video. You can inprove it by putting a thin film of teflonsheet between the glass and the heatabsorber, this will prevent some radiation to flow out thro the glass. Also, you could but like 5 cm of stonewool as a first layer and then put the metalabsorber on top of it and also along the sides, this will isolate the build very vell and will make a higher temperatur build up in the cabinet. Really good diy video over all!
But could it start a fire. He used wood to construct this.
A 120 cfm blower is sufficient for a 4x8 collector. 12 volt. These blowers gently move air from below, cool air inlet through the collector then into the room. However, at 135 degrees coming out of the collector that temp will quickly cool down to 75 but a continuous flow will keep the room at a comfortable temp. This comes from my experience in the early 80’s as I developed sold and installed these panels on homes in Chicago and Indiana
Another problem with this Collector is the pilot holes are drawing cold air from outside the room. In a cold climate, even here in southern Tennessee where average winters are above 40 means a 40 degree temp is coming through the collector. That’s cold air that needs to be heated. This collector will not do the job. Air needs to come from inside where the cool air from the home might be 65 degrees and as air is lifted through the collector slowly temps can easily reach 140 degrees and through convection into the room it will cool down to a comfortable temp.
His design is ok but the outlet needs to be wider than a six inch hole. Should be more like a small air conditioner.
Good job very brief and easy I admair your work🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! 😃
Nice job,I liked the project.
Thanks!
I am also really interested to know which collector was better this vs the screen one you made as I was dead set on making a screen collector until I saw this video. thanks
Welcome back. You were missed...
thanks! appreciate it. i'll be around making vids for 20 years if possible.
Very Cool. Suggest a layer of foam insulation on the back before placing it outside. Also consider using black screen as the main collector. Place it in such a way that the intake air is forced through the screen to get to exhaust fan. Lots of side by side tests have been done with collectors like this. Screen has always done well. Next best has been gutter downspouts. Also consider placing some blocks or dams inside the unit to force some air circulation into the upper corners. If you can get temperature measurements of the metal plate you may find those corners hotter than the rest of the unit. Somewhere online I saw a 2 fan thermostat controlled product. It has a temp sensor at each fan. When the intake fan temp is below the temp of the outlet fan the ventilation turns on. Also it is important to be able to close off the system at night.
Bruce, what product is the black screen you are referring to?
awaiting YOUR contribution....
@@JacovanRensburg look for black window screen made from aluminum, but black plastic screen could still be ok, make a small one and test before commiting
Bravo
Would like to trty this with the steel panel installed horizontally in stead of verticle. May disrupt and slow airflow a little and possibly transfer more heat ??
I was plotting a dessicant based de-humidifier (link below). It works like a PSA Nitrogen Concentrator. So the dessicant needs to be recharged every few minutes with hot air
This seems to be the perfect air heater for the job!
Nice ! What about doing modular solar roof sheeting heater in this way ? Heating in winter, evacuating hot air in summer... ; ) Imagine all the energy a WHOLE ROOF can offer !
It’s a good idea in theory but I wonder if the sun would be too low in the sky during the winter to really heat up the roof, since the pitch is usually not steep enough? And then you would have the problem of water infiltration into the vent holes. But maybe there are ways to overcome the issues?
@@fineartbymattphilleo It depends of the roof inclination of your house. The roof sheet could be waffled in a false tiles "print", directed to the right angle otherwise to collect the maxiumum heat in winter..
Or if you have something enough dark and non reflecting, it could not be that much of a problem too..
The vent holes, I was imagining that anyway, any roof sheets are tiled so water can't enter like classical roof sheets..
The heat could be collected by air circulation, (like with classical roof sheet, actually already done i saw in internet!)
or with pipes sinked in the cement layer.
Does this run hotter than the same size downspout heater? Seem the surface area would be more with currugated downspouts
Love watching these videos. You are so detailed. I live in Connecticut and Would love to make one of these heaters. I have a antique house and there is a sun room and it really heats up well just from the sun.
I simply hang the bare, unpainted, corrugated panels on my windows like curtains. The sun shines through my glass windows, and then heats the panels.
Awesome. Any thoughts on using metal screen painted flat black and maybe even as a layer over this to maybe even catch more heat and reflect less? Thanks for sharing! On another noted, been seeing heat pipes can order online that aren't that expensive and have been wondering about using for some solar projects to heat water and get heat around a 90 degree bend, I'm thinking from a concentrating dish or trough target into the old goodwill store vacuum carafe flask I have.
Just was thinking make a sealed door frame for the glass to be able to open and clean the glass routinely as needed over the systems lifecycle. Wondering side by side with the other versions too... that'll be an awesome video too. Thanks again!
I hope to build one for a porch green house. Leaving the back panel shiny. Reflecting the light to black cans. Maybe?
Instead of normal glass to incase the hot air use a wide focus fresnel lens. Good content, I subsribed.
I am just wondering if you couldn't move the air behind the metal panel, therefore leaving the panel itself intact for roofing purposes. It seems to me this would make moving the air easier as you'd basically be using the rafters of the roof itself as sides of the boxes. Not sure yet how to use that heat though, because you actually need cooling on warm days and heating on the cold... possibly somehow make this one side of how an airconditioner works?
Good morning. I noticed you have a great experience with solar heater. I want to build one of this. Can you tell me what is the most efficient design in order to obtain the best results?
How are they doing in Wintertime? Until minus 15 degrees Celsius
Would perspex do instead of glass? Or would it get too hot? This looked just like an Ikea picture frame, but whilst the small ones have glass the larger ones are perspex.
I LOVE your videos! It's almost that time of year for me to bring out my evaporative cooler that I built based on your design. It WORKS and cools down the inside of my fifth wheel bedroom so I can sleep. I added a timer so it doesn't run all night. This year I'm switching out the 110AC pump and fan to 12 volt models and incorporating a 12volt deep cycle battery to save more energy. I'm absolutely gonna build these heaters- here in NM it gets COLD in the winter, but these will help take the energy costs down.
hi. and thanks. so glad the evap. cooler works for you. the solar heater should work great for you too. if you got sun, you got free heat👍
Great Video + Crystal Instructions. @desertsun02 . Curious if we add 2 more Fans at the left and right edges of the same box... would those fans also be able to generate the same heat in each of them? TIA
so how well does it work when the temp is in the teens?
Corrugated metal sure gets hot. Have you ever thought about testing the Harry Thomason trickle down solar collector? It uses the whole roof and insulated gutters to collect heat. For the most minimal implementation you just need to insulate the gutter, plumb a water line to the roof, and then you can collect hot water from the downspout. It works better to insulate over the roof and cover that with black corrugated metal and glass for low maintenance or cheap plastic that would need to be taken down every year so it doesn't melt when it's off in the summer. All the information is in his 33 patents and a couple Department of Energy studies on a model house a university built in the 1970s. DIY solar TH-camr John Canavan resurrected the idea.
hi. i have heard of it, but i haven't looked into it.
I would assume you could modify this design to pull intake air from the inside of a building then exhaust it back into the building, Would a thermosiphon setup work with this design or should it be forced air with a fan?
Good build! But I wonder if it would be even better if you have put intake holes at the back, in plywood behind corrugated metal somewhere a little bit higher, in the middle perhaps. Cold air would fall down pushing the warm air up to the fan and cold air would have more time to warm up.
Agree :-) Seal under the top edge of the absorber to ensure no short cut from air in to air out. Then, entry holes high up on the back. cool air drops down behind the plate, scrubbing heat from back of absorber and reducing heat loss out back panel as will be running cooler. This pre heated air then rises up between glass and front of panel to reach fan at top. Voila! Double pass collector, doubling your surface area heat gain without building a bigger collector.
New project idea. Connect a previous model to the intake, and see how much your supercharged version outputs!
Hey, regarding the lifespan of the panel, i would recommend putting the fan out of the panel
Your steel panel heats in the sun, and heats up the backside of your panel. Try to take it loose from the back side, add some heat resistant insulation (class fiber cloth or mere air) between the back side and metal panel. You will be surprised, more than 100C is possible. My panels give 110C at best, while it is freezing cold outside.
hi. i experimented with that idea (raising up the metal) - but (for me) it didn't increase output temps (and actually made the fan work harder). if you're getting 100C you need a faster fan. it's all a balance between temp and volume of output air (to get the most heat at the right temp). i shoot for 140F-145F as a target output temp. (that's about the same as a good high end standard home furnace temp). best things i can recommend are using at least 1/4" plywood back (nothing thinner) and real glass. i've found those 2 things increase temp the best. along with lots of metal of course. insulation board behind the metal could be used, but if any water gets in, you're then dealing with a possible mold issue. since the air doesn't stay in the unit very long (maybe 30 seconds from top to bottom) - and the possibility of a water/mold issue - i just skip it.
I have scoured both the list at the front and the list at the end and don't see the corrugated steel panels on the list. LOL! love your videos anyway!
hi. here's a link. www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Roofing-Gutters-Roofing-Roof-Panels/Amerimax/N-5yc1vZaq4rZ5lr amazon has them too.
Here's a thought: have the air intake at the top in the front, then force the air to travel down the front and then back up the back before existing. That might get an extra 20f out of the system. You might have to make it a little thicker to facilitate that, but it would be worth the experiment.
have at it
What is the purpose of all the holes in one side? Wouldn't that mean you have to have intake pipes for all those holes instead of just one like on top?
Wondering if placing the metal panel 90 degrees would get greater heat transfer.
I am going tomorrow to pick up any materials I would need for a passive solar heater. Which version would you say produces the best heat? I will also be building mine on an angle. Behind and under it, will be sand. Hopefully creating a heat battery, to help prolong the heat exchange a little longer after dark. Would love to hear your thoughts on this. Also, have been wondering about a weak magnifying glass, on lead blocks for heat generation, on a sand bed, for protection and also thermal heating battery.. maybe run pipe through the sand. Trying to find someone who has tried this or something similar, but no luck.
Did that concept work?
Thank you so much for this latest video
Been keeping an eye on your solar air heater
I have a question
Can I replace the glass with transparent acrylic panels?
I’m going to put it on the roof of my house. It’s too heavy for glass
hi. yes you can use other materials. i've found that plexi-glas sometimes wants to warp when it gets hot though. try to make sure whatever you use that it can handle the heat.
@@desertsun02 Thanks for the advice
i cant help but ask, i have tall windows and i keep the bottom covered as i get plenty of light and view from the top half, would it be a bad idea to make one in the bottom of the window sill inside the house due to the amount of heat it generates?
hi. in that particular case, it sounds like a good idea.
so whats the best one? Steel Panel or screen?
Nice video e great job.
About the fan: could it be installed on the top instead of the back? if you want to hang the solar heater to the outside wall, you won''t have the pipe on the way. Would it work the same?
hey there and thanks! ...i haven't measured it out (but it sounds like it would work the same)
Nice job. The only thing I would like to see it bigger and the glass installed with a frame and a strip of foam ins. Around it in case it got broke cleaner/easier to replace. Insulate the box with a thin foam board. Leave more space at top and bottom of your metal so you will get the heat from both sides :-).
hi. both good ideas. 🙂
Do you think there would be a benefit from adding tiles or some thermal mass behind the metal, and insulating the box?
I don't think insulation would be worth the effort. Most of the heat loss is from the glass which is about 50% of the surface area. Adding thermal mass would slow down the heat build up which you want to be as quick as possible because the goal is to move the hot air away from the panel.
If the goal is heating up thermal mass then the water tube panel is ideal for that.
@@cupbowlspoonforkknif Heating a thermal mass means the unit can radiate heat at night, I'd blow the heat onto a thermal mass inside the house.
Out of all the versions you've made which is your favorite or the best one?
hi there. i can't say that there is a 'best one' but my personal favorite is the steel downspout heater one. they all work good but that one with it's thick metal tubes, extra clear glass and plywood back is a top producer. this one is a top producer too. my other favorite might be the steel can one. has several recycled items in the design.
Have you ever done a comparison between this and the can and the screen? I saw the other comparison video, but wondering how this unit stacks up?
hi there. since this unit is bigger (or has more surface area) than most of the other ones that i've made, it's hard to do a relative comparison, but just from my experience with using all of them, this is one of the best. they are all fairly similar but if i had to say which is the best of all... i personally think the steel down-spout one might be at the top. in many cases (when deciding which one to build) it comes down to what you have available in terms of the materials that you have access to. 🙂
Excellent build only thing I'm worried about it would be the off gassing if I could find a natural black like that I can make it home instead of spray paint any suggestion and I'll probably use mechanical fasteners instead of the glue
hi and thanks. anything 'all natural' is almost always the best, but most of these paints are totally non-toxic once they are fully dry. there shouldn't be any off-gassing.
Have you tried channeling the air through a box like this? For instance if you were to force the air to travel from side to side as it moves up the box the air would spend more time in the box and travel across more heated material than ITF it's able to just make a straight shot from intake to exhaust. Hope that made sense lol. Take some boards and add 2 or 3 to each side. Make em about 4 to 6 inches shy of touching the other side. Alternate sides with appropriate spacing. Like I said this should create a zig zag effect on the path the air takes. I would think you'd be able to get even hotter temps. But great videos! Keep it up!
hi. yes, i've got a video similar to this with a zig/zag pattern. here's the link to that one th-cam.com/video/CNreGTvd12I/w-d-xo.html
Hello! How do you think will work if on top, instead of glass, you put a plain piece of metal panel? would that increase the heat inside maybe? Aslo make it closed circuit in the room you are heating? Intake also from room, warm it up in panel and back in room... like a pre-heated air intake?
hi. you definitely need the glass to let the light in. if you used metal the light would just bounce off of it. the rays go through the glass and get trapped in the box. a closed circuit is a good option. that will give you max heating. (the drawbacks with that are that you'll lose the fresh air flow into your home and you'll need two inlets/outlets versus just one). but it's a good option ✔
Might it be even more efficient if the corrugated steel were suspended/raised to halfway between back and glass, allowing both sides to heat the air?
hi. that was my thought also but during testing it didn't seem to make a difference (so i kept it simple and just attached it to the back).
I see you have built a Solar Ceramic Space Heater using a 100W panel and bunch of Solar collectors (Corrugated Steel Panels, Downspout, Steel Can, Screen) that pump hot air. Out of all your testing which system gives the biggest bang for the buck? i.e. which should I build to get the best performance vs cost?
Or should I just place more PV panels on my roof and use electric heaters in my house?
Taking the air intake from inside the house would give better performance. Also insulating the box and using two glassed windows would give better performance.
Great stuff! Going to build something like this using metallic roof materials.
One question: Why in most of the solar heater videos the frames are build from scratch when one could use old window frames?
hi and thanks! that's because most people won't have access to old window frames. plus the frames will be of all sizes. i like to show a build that can be replicated with ease. (window frames are good if you got them though) 🙂
@@desertsun02 Thank you for your reply!
Atleast here in Finland they sell old window frames of many sizes at construction recycling centers for couple of euros.
Your way sure is easy to replicate but the easiest way would would be to use a window that's outer glass can be opened. Just remove the inner glasses and bolt a wooden panel on the back. Then repairs and modifications could be possible. On the downside the construct would be very heavy because atleast bigger frames are very sturdy.
Would this put out less heat with plexiglass?
I have a questions about installation. I'm building my first heater up in Ottawa, Canada for my garage, and was wondering if you have a recommendation for a backdraft dampener? When the fan is off I want something that will prevent the warm air from escaping my garage and the ingress of cold air from the heater unit. Also, up here I'm not finding a lot of 3" flanges for the back of the unit. I'm wondering if you have ever tried a 120mm fan and 4" exhaust pipe? I'm assuming that might move the air too efficiently and not give it enough of a chance to warm right?
Many thanks to you for putting together these vids. I'm a videographer by profession and I know the time that goes into making good video. Great work and thank you. Also thank you to all the other commenters for trips and tricks.
hi. one tip on finding a 3" flange... check auto parts dealers. there seems to be several parts for cars that are 3" flanges that would work. i've never actually used a 4" exhaust pipe. could work though but like you say the fan may pull the air through fast. i recently bought a 3" (flange) (technically an air intake mount) made by spectre performance (sold on amazon). that should work perfect to hold a 3" dryer hose. here's a link
www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-8148-Mounting-Plate/dp/B000BPUTL4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OCYYXU6DISNY&keywords=spectre+performance+air+intake+mount+8148&qid=1641834880&sprefix=spectre+performance+air+intake+mount+8148%2Caps%2C474&sr=8-1
here a link to a 4" one
www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Intake-Mounting-Plate/dp/B0035GS6OS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1OCYYXU6DISNY&keywords=spectre+performance+air+intake+mount+8148&qid=1641834933&sprefix=spectre+performance+air+intake+mount+8148%2Caps%2C474&sr=8-2
@@desertsun02 Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check my local auto places. Thanks again for the videos!
Would installing insulation around the would frame, increase the temperature?
hi. probably not by much. the air passes thru pretty quick. i've noticed that my two hottest solar thermal air heaters are the ones with a thicker (1/4" or more backing) but they have no "side insulation". if you want to insulate probably concentrate on the back.
I think your screen heater had a larger temperature delta. It was 95 degrees over ambient IIRC. Probably way cheaper and easier to build too.
buenso dias, la entradad de aire se puede tomar del interior de la casa tambien o si o si tiene que ser del exterior. gracias
hi. the air intake can from inside if you want.
Do you smell any chemicals from the glue or paint? Have you tried with a air filter? Thanks for the video.
hi. no smell from the glue at all. there can be a 'paint smell' (if you start using it before the paint is totally dry) but it typically only lasts 1 to 3 days and then disappears.
I appreciate your efforts. Why aren’t you taking inside air for input rather than outside air?
hi there. i prefer outside air for a couple of reasons. one is i like having fresh air introduced into the house (versus re-circulated stale air). the other is you have to have 2 holes in your house (inlet and outlet) instead of only one. on the other hand, recirculated air is easier to warm, each way has a benefit... it's a trade-off. if you make it with 2 holes, remember to make the inlet hole much larger than the outlet, so the air flows smoothly.
I have a 4x6 greenhouse, live in Reno NV my greenhouse durning the day stays at 70 degrees with blankets off ( on at night ) at 30 degree days ! I have solar panels for night heat but need to recharge during day , problem was I need some fresh air so built this cheep 36”x36” box because glass I had was 36x36 used old screen and threw in old 1/2” plastic pipe for drip systems , works good as a baffling effect no insulation or sealer for cracks just stuff I had , anyway on 50 degree days it puts out 82 degrees in duck work so now I can add to greenhouse for fresh air and raise temperature somewhat, just need supply temp above 70 , this was tested on clouds in/out so only can get better , this held above 70 for 1hour and 1/2 so free fresh air reheated , works for me , this design was great but I just used what I had , just think what you can do with good materials like this video
Due to TERRIBLE pollen counts here in the spring, I’d want to filter any air before it makes it into any spaces. After watching your install, an installation option would be where you put the screen at the intake holes. Maybe one layers there and one layer at output. I realize it will slow down the movement of air and make the fan work harder so maybe I could size up the fan. We have horrible allergies in the family so I HAVE to keep it from making in. Any thoughts?
You could draw the heater's input air from inside the house, let it heat up, and return it back inside. That way you avoid the pollen from the outside air.
How about using filter pads used in furnaces? Washable ones? If you wanted it really clean, a HEPA type filter, but you'd have to increase the size of the air intake hole A LOT , otherwise it would reduce the airflow too much
I got allergy window screens ima see about using. They are washable although they don't let alot of air through...
Hello guys. Great video. Just on thing is not clear if the sun is up and heat is created and leaded to certain place what about at night it can't work at night then?Only by day That's what I understood but please correct me if I am wrong.
hi. that's right, it only works during the day. to use the heat of this at night you'd have to store it. using sand or rocks for storage is one idea. water would work too. personally i would use sand. it's been shown to be more effective than even water.
Wondering how the fan has held up running all that hot air. Would it last longer if you used the fan on the cold side to push cold air into the panel?
hi. the fans holding up good. it's pretty warm air but those fans can easily handle it. the unit doesn't work very well if you try to push the air into the panel. it bottlenecks and almost no air comes out the vent. the fans seem to work fine to pull the air through but it puts too much stress on them to try to push it into the panel.
What about the days in the winter where its cloudy and gloomy? Does it work on those days when its not sunny?
hi. not as well. it needs some sun to operate 👍🌞
How much joules(heat energy) continue we get from this model.
In addition to the temperature you need to take airflow measurement.
You did and showed us great project..thanks..
hi. very welcome 👍👈
I'm guessing you can't use this at night time?! Any ideas for night time heat with hot air stored somehow during the day to be used at night?
Focus the hot air coming in on a pile of cement block, stones or containers of water to collect and store the heat for passive release after sundown.
Hello, i have a project request. How about building a solar air heater using a magnifine glass to replace the original glass on the box.I Bet that would super head the box for massive heat gains
LoL.. do you understand how lenses work?
Nice job :-) I’d get me a new bit 😢
Can you build one where you recirculate the air from inside the house, like a regular furnace.
hi, yes, with a small modification you can do that. just add an exit hole near the bottom of the unit and an extra vent hose. then pipe both pipes into the home. and you won't need the bottom inlet holes since it's closed loop
Any problems with smell from the paint and adhesive? Do you have any large units installed or are you still testing?
hi. the 'new paint' smell disappears within a couple of days (once paint is solid and totally dry). the adhesive has no smell after it's dry too. (even when it's not dry i didn't notice any). only thing i've ever noticed about these collectors was a 'carboard' smell in one of the earlier ones (this one doesn't have any carboard though - so no issue with that). this size is about the largest one i have (actually i have one that is a little larger) but i generally keep them at a 'portable' size. i use 2 or 3 for extra heat. easier to make, fix and move them if they are not too big. once the glass is larger than 36" by 36" the price goes up massively.
OK... I did not see or "get" where you actually hooked up the 2 wires, but you mentioned you hooked them to the solar panel... did not see you do it. I'd really like to make one. Can you please clarify for me? Thanks!
hi. the 2 wires of the fan are just twisted to the 2 wires from the solar panel. it's a direct connect. the actual twisting of the wires didn't "make the cut" - but if you watch close - in the beginning of the video where i'm taking the temp measurements you can see the connection just behind the unit. you'll see the gray wire from the solar panel connected to the fan wires. it's easy to miss because your eyes want to focus on the temp reading
I have some clear PVC panels. Would that be okay as a substitude for glass?
possibly, but i'm not sure if the pvc would handle the heat. (i've used both glass and plexi-glas in my designs and always found glass to work the best).
What would happen if you added some dividers to make the airflow zig zag?
hi there. sounds like something to try 👍
How do you solder the wires to the solar panel
Metal is a good heat conductor, the air does not have to go along the sunny side of the panel. The air only needs to be in contact with the back of the panel, which is heated from the front. So there is no more air circulation between the glass and the panel! Would that produce better results?
hi. i've tried designs where the metal is raised up off the back but i've found no increase in the output temps. and since it's simpler to make this way, i decided not to raise it 🙂
@@desertsun02 If you have placed the plate higher, closer to the glass ... have you still allowed air circulation between the glass and the plate? That was not clear to me.
My point is that the air circulating along the cold glass doesn't heat up enough. A stationary layer of air between the glass and the plate acts as an additional insulation of the cold glass.
So only air circulation behind the plate, no air circulation along the sunny side.
Maybe worth checking that out.
Now you just have to find a way to save all that heat until night when you need it.
hi there. rocks or sand are two possible ways to store the heat. maybe blow the air across them. i'll have to give that some thought.
Is this a normal glass or could a different or temper treated glass could give better result ?
hi. it's just normal glass. i've found it works the best.
Do you have a video of it installed?
This is a great idea, but I am a little confuse as to what you wired the fan into? I either missed that part or it wasn't mentioned.
hi. the wires from the fan go directly to a solar panel. it's direct connect 👍
@@desertsun02 how does it connect to the solar panel?
@@lethamorris8719 with wires
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hi. yes, that or i was looking at using musou black. it's pretty expensive though
what is the purpose of the metal sheet? just wondering if it can be replaced by aluminium foil (to cut the cost)
hi there. the metal sheet absorbs the heat of the sun and radiates it in the box. tin foil is too thin. the denser (and thicker) the metal is, the better it works.