Best Filament Dryer for a 3D printer that I have tested (Sunlu S1/S2 and Eibos Easydry)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- Visit: www.nordfpv.com
Filament dryers are a very good accessory for your 3D printer. In many cases a necessity, and in this video we discuss some of the most popular boxes to keep your filament in the best shape for your 3D printing work.
Timeline:
0:00 Intro
3:45 Sunlu S1
5:49 Sunlu S2
9:09 Eibos Easydry
Check out the review for the improved EIBOS big filament dryer
• EIBOS POLYPHEMUS: The ...
The EIBOS easydry can be found at: shrsl.com/4ffmg
Sunlu dryers: www.sunlu.com/products/new-ve...
The sunlu dryer add-on can be found: www.printables.com/model/5871...
Fantastic video Champion!
You answered a few questions I had about the 2 filament driers I was looking at.
You earned another subscriber!
Thanks Harry. I’m glad I could answer some of your questions!
I think the eibos is the best box on the market. I’ve added ptfe fittings and added ptfe lines for easier spinning. I also swapped out the display for one that reads temp and humidity levels. I’ve done this to both of my boxes. I also have 2 sunlus and I just use them for drying purposes.
You should do a video about that, I'm sure many will like to do the same mod Tanner. I do!
Any chance of a tutorial on what screen you installed and how you went about it?
Link to screen
on the s1 you can hold the left button and you can choose for how long you want it to stay on as well... so it's not only the temperature but even a time control 😁
Oh really?! Didn’t know that. Thanks for letting me know Aziel
@@NordFPV no problem my Guy, its a good video, I ended up using the one with the fan and using the s1 as backup, always leaving it a little bit open with a stick so the condensation can escape, not ideal but better than nothing 😂
Good video, I'm snagging a filament dryer to get started then once I get printing decent prints I think I'll make my own dryer and storage solution. There are a TON of great designs out there and it would be an interesting project.
I saw one project that I’m still interested about, where you could monitor online the dryer itself. Not that you NEED it but as a project sounded interesting
Sv01 is $40 usd for a dual spool. Low drag, few exits, but they're in ok positions. Same controls as the 1st one
Thanks for the great review
Thanks for watching
I use the Sunlu S1 and the first thing I realised is that the humidity from drying out the filament wasn't going anywhere, so as soon as the heating goes off, the filament would re-absorb it. What I do now is place a freezer block on the top of the lid (on the outside) and that causes the condensation to collect on the under-side of the plastic. Then every hour or so I just wipe off the moisture. After a while you start to notice a decline the amount of water collecting.
That sounds like a lot of work. Why not opening a hole or keeping the lid a couple of mm open?
I get why you don’t like the center shaft as opposed to nice bearings for the spool edges. However, if your spool is warped or broken, it will cause issues. The center shaft of the Eibos may not be as fancy or as smooth, but the spool center is the place on the spool least likely to have a mechanical issue. It will most likely always work.
I’ve seen that more and more. Specially with the cardboard spools. But I print mostly in TPU and some times filaments like PA12. Which requieres a very minimal level of friction for the best results and the eibos dryer box just adds too much, I can’t use it if I’m printing those sensitive filaments.
Thank you for responding and certainly, the numbers are something to look forward to.
The 'issue' (for me) that becomes apparent is that as (in most cases) the heater is in the base of the unit, it would mostly heat just that one section of the filament spool. And yes, I know some dryers have fans but surely, this creates an inconsistency in the filament and must affect the outcome.
I would be interested in your thoughts on this aberration.
Thank you
Interesting! I never thought about it. Somehow I think the heat goes around, specially in the box with the fan, but yea it maybe that there are certain zones where heat is higher. Then the question is, does that makes a difference?
The S2 has a second heater on top, and the eibos has a fan that circulates the air, so I don't think even heating would be a problem for those two. The S1 might have a problem though.
It is such a small volume and heat rises so it’s probably not that bad……
I am not even able to use wet filaments in the AMS of my Carbon X1. The AMS gets jammed and I have the manually remove it from the AMS. The problem occurred for me with the official Bambu Lab Carbon Fiber filement.
Great video! I am just getting started with 3D printing and in a lot of videos about dryers, they mainly talk about Tpu, nylon and pteg. I am starting with pla. How important is it to have a filament dryer when using pla? I also ordered vacuum bags to store the filaments. Would that be sufficient?
Hi Danny. I will say that it depends quite a lot of your environment. If your rolls are stored in vacuumed bag, PLA shouldn’t absorb so much moister. But if the bags fails (which is very often) and you don’t have desiccant, and the environment is very wet, you may have problems. It also depends how long time you let the roll absorb moisture. I would think PLA is the one to less worry about this problem though.
@@NordFPV Thank you for your answer!
Thanks. that was helpful. I just ordered an S1 Plus (which has a fan). For the clearance price they are selling it for now, I can't go wrong and will have a better idea what I like and don't like when I spend more money.
Glad I could help
Great video ... I like the simplicity of the Eibos Easydry fans that works - timer is not important, the result of humidity is more important. I heard the Sunlu s2 the humidity meter is not accurate.
Thank you. I have never check accuracy of those sensors to be honest. I’m not sure how would I do that 😆, but at the same time I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s the case. Many of these manufacturers are trying to lower the price as much as possible
Thanks. I stick to the eibos because it get the hottest for Filament like nylon. Price right now 50usd
Have you had any issues with friction Adam?
@@NordFPV no, it's okay. I also think about a PTFE mod or something like this. Right now I don't print tpu. Maybe that is challenging
Amazon has a Sunlu S1 Plus for sale that says it is an upgraded S1 with a fan. I think I'll try that.
Tile says indeed but not even Sunlu has confirmed about abt the added fan, nor anyone has taken apart or done test comparison, as far as I am concerned.
I’ve never heard or seen that model. Why would sunlu do that in the S1? I was thinking that model was out of production given the max temp is so low
How did you solve the Eibos friction problem? I didn't really like the mods from printables.
I haven’t. I use the eibos more like a “offline” dryer.
How accurate are the temp settings? I've seen a number of reviews where the set temp is no where near the actual temperatures. Which one would you recommend for Nylon/CF Nylon?
I have not checked the temperatures, but I have used the S2 with nylon/cf with success.
@@NordFPV Thank you for confirming that! :) Did you do the fan mod after this video or are you leaving the unit stock?
@@ShahriarFarkhan I have left it stock so far, but I have to admit I don't live ina very humid place. I've talked to other people who gets a lot of humidity and then it's almost a must to have the fan. Not my case though. Check your area.
Btw, I have not being able to find the SunluS2 with a hole in the front and in back. Mine has only in the front and every listing and stock photo I have found showing only one as well. But you are the second person I’ve seen with this version on the S2.
Hi Leandro. Really? That’s really bad. I thought those 2 were kind of few. Imagine if it’s only 1…
@@NordFPV Not only that but you must drill a couple holes on top or leave the door opened about a half inch. Otherwise u won't get under 30ish humidity with S2. Poor design all together. I wonder how effective is the STACKER F-Box compared to all those active dryers.
Two questions: 1. How the filament get dry in Sunlu S2 with all the condensed water inside?
2. Nylon needs 80 C to be dry. Sunlu S2 gives maximum 70C degree and Eibos even less, 65 C only. How does it work? Regards.
Hey. You don't get all the condensation everytime. I think it depends a lot where you live in the world, and how wet is your filament.
When it comes to nylon, I have used it both, and seems to work ok. Honestly I use the sunlu 2 more with nylon because of the friction, but for me seems to work fine. Then, here in Sweden we don't have that much humid weather
@@NordFPV thanks!
Do you have a link to the files used for the modifications?
The designer will make the available soon and I’ll give you a link to them when he has done it.
Here is the part www.printables.com/model/587183-sunlu-s2-pc4-m10-addon
I bought the S2 but I did not get the "nozzle" thing you have on yours, it only came with a couple of 5mm stumps of ptfe tubing. Is my dryer missing parts???
No you are not missing parts. As I said in the video I modded the S2 to have less friction when feeding the filament.
@@NordFPV Thanks mate, I prolly missed a lot due to migraine smacked me over the head and stuck for a few days counting backwards. :) Anyhows, really nice videos mate! Some of the most informative details Ive found so far! Well done!
As you print from a spool the radius of the fillament coil reduces with time. This radius and the resistance to turning the spool form a moment that works against the extruder. In an edge supported spool the resistance is given a much larger mechanical advantage than on a centre supported on. I have found in practice that this makes a big difference on large spools.
I’ve notice this too. What have you done to improve the situation?
@@NordFPV I printed spool stands that supported from the centre and have bearings. Previously was using a standard underneath the spool with rollers with 2.5kg spools it was causing minor issues with 4.5kg+ the extruder just couldn't handle it.
That's an interesting point. A bottom supported spool on good bearings with no slipping introduces "no" added friction. Whereas the eibos has sliding friction since there's no bearing on the axle. Minimizing the friction would get rid of that if it really sticks (like the PTFE comment above). Or... If there's room one could place a low profile outer support bearing stop in the bottom.
[Ope, I see your follow up comment after posting!]
Really depends on what's winning. I think the eibos issues are pretty easily solved though.
The Sunlu S2 says it has a fan now.
Oh good. I have to check that out
I tried to check in sulu’s website and didn’t find it. Can you share a link?
Just for dry PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, Flex, I mean not special filaments.... so I'm not going to print while drying and neither to hack. Which one do you think dries better out of the box? Thanks in advance!
the 3 of them will work for what you are describing. I use the 3 of them for my TPU, I think the S1 is the less
Effective but it still does some drying
Says in the about section of your channel you are in Sweden, but you sound from Spain. Are you from Spain?
Im Venezuelan, but I live in Sweden since 15 years ago. So the shop is located in Sweden and I speak Spanish 😉
@@NordFPV Yo tambien amigo. Saludos desde españa
Lots of good information but to be a far more useful review, we need to 'see' them tested and the measurements posted e.g. how much was humidity at the start and at the end, how long etc etc and importantly, some before and after printing comparisons.
Hey Cary, great feedback. I will try to get more info in my next video. It's always difficult to have a balance between how much info and how to keep the attention of the viewers these days when no one wants to watch a video longer than 5 min :D
Question about why your wife doesn't like to dry the filament in the oven?
She thinks the oven is for food, and plastic doesn’t belong there.
-if you have a fan you will conctantly add moist from the outside!
I don’t think I agree with you. If the fan is set so it pushes the inside air out, you will be outputting moisture. Only if you have a fan taking air from outside towards inside is that you may end up as you say. Don’t you think?
Most dryers today have a fan and they work very well.
think one more time about your answer, think alot...@@NordFPV
if the dryer have a fan, it will have to exchange the air it is blowing out from the dryer in the same proportion that is blowing air in and out and in that way it will be a zero gain, you can "dry" for ever, but you will never get any better than your Ambient RH
Your title said you tested them.....but there are no tests in the video? Huh?
Hi. I do tell how each one behaves for me while I tested them. If you were expecting like a scientific test this is not the video. This is my experience after testing them.
The two filament dryers reviewed are both substandard, having highest drying temp 70C. Which is too low for the modern range of filaments on the market. For example, PA filament needs 90C for 6 hours. The reviewer needs to review this review !! Also, a filament dryer needs to have facility to insert filament through the output hole without taking the lid on and off, eg a slot, not a hole. The review is simplistic and not fit for purpose.
Hello. Thanks for your comments. I have found that even if the temp doesn’t go over 70 the dryer have a positive effect even with PA. The reviews are based in my experience using these devices. I’m not claiming to be an expert or doing scientific test, just normal day to day usage and what results I get. Your points are valid and if you think it’s worth doing a more detailed scientific test of some of this device I’ll invite you to do one yourself and publish your results. I’m sure it will help a lot of people.