Doing my first brake pad and rotor change on my 2016 Tech Pack GT350 (which is also my first brake pad/rotor change on anything ever) and your videos for the front and rear brakes are fantastic. Thanks for making these videos, and double thanks for making them to-the-point and easy to follow along!
Great video. Nicely explained. Blank Rotors work better on track or on the street... Drilled rotors look cool but they are a product of a bygone era. Back in the day (Late 70's / early 80's) they helped with pad out-gassing but modern pads don't out-gas. The holes are like a cheese grater and eat your pads quicker for no good reason. Also, drilled rotors are more prone to develop cracks. I tracked my older Mustang heavily / competed in time trials / was a track instructor and tried everything under the sun: Drilled / slotted / plain then cryo treated all of the above. Using temp strips and a pyrometer I found that that there was no temperature benefit to drilled rotors. That's a myth. If anything the extra metal on the blanks helps absorb the heat better which is what you want. The best were the plain Brembo's cryo treated but over the long run I found the cryo treatment's very small benefit to not be worth the extra cost and trouble. Those tests were done over 20,000 track miles. There's a reason Ford went to plain rotors in 2019 and it's not for cost. If you want to keep the rotors cooler on a GT350, get the aero deflectors that mount on the hub and direct more air to the center of the rotor.
Good video. You can also take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure when pushing back on brake pistons...just so you can push them back by using your fingers.
Great video and very useful thank you, I did all this step by step, however after replacing my old rotors to new I am facing minor shake in pads/steering while braking in low speeds 20-50 km/h. Don't know how to fix it.. I did wheel balance and tire's in good condition, checked everything in car all are fine, I even did proper bedding on the pads but no change at all. Any other suggestions?? Thanks
@@THEDriverMod_ Yeah, they are still in good condition. I might put back the old rotors and pads as they were not that bad and then check whether the issue is from the rotors or pads or something else. Thanks man
Slightly. The stock drilled rotors are also developing a high speed braking vibration above 100 so in order to still get use out of the stock rotors I switch them out because they are perfectly fine for street use. Once the stock ones are done, I will only run the one set and not do the switching back and forth.
That is a good suggestion.. I've never been annoyed with brake noise, use to hearing it on track so it's just a normal thing to me. I just lubricate the parts of the pad plate that rest on the caliper.
@@TheWhatYouNeed mine is not my daily either, its my track day weapon/ and big event poster child for my Amsoil product display! 2016, Gen1 Voodoo, original engine, 17k miles.
There probably is but once you've done it as many times as I have and installed new lock tight, you kinda get a good feel for it. Never had any problems at the track with this method
Great video. Thanks, you saved me a ton of time.
You're welcome! Happy to help, I also made a video doing the rear brakes, diff and transmission fluids as well!
Doing my first brake pad and rotor change on my 2016 Tech Pack GT350 (which is also my first brake pad/rotor change on anything ever) and your videos for the front and rear brakes are fantastic. Thanks for making these videos, and double thanks for making them to-the-point and easy to follow along!
Happy to hear it made the job easier for you! Congrats on doing it yourself and saving some money in the process!
Great video. Nicely explained. Blank Rotors work better on track or on the street... Drilled rotors look cool but they are a product of a bygone era. Back in the day (Late 70's / early 80's) they helped with pad out-gassing but modern pads don't out-gas. The holes are like a cheese grater and eat your pads quicker for no good reason. Also, drilled rotors are more prone to develop cracks. I tracked my older Mustang heavily / competed in time trials / was a track instructor and tried everything under the sun: Drilled / slotted / plain then cryo treated all of the above. Using temp strips and a pyrometer I found that that there was no temperature benefit to drilled rotors. That's a myth. If anything the extra metal on the blanks helps absorb the heat better which is what you want. The best were the plain Brembo's cryo treated but over the long run I found the cryo treatment's very small benefit to not be worth the extra cost and trouble. Those tests were done over 20,000 track miles. There's a reason Ford went to plain rotors in 2019 and it's not for cost. If you want to keep the rotors cooler on a GT350, get the aero deflectors that mount on the hub and direct more air to the center of the rotor.
That's alot of good information! I appreciate the posting feed back as well.
Thanks for the help with this video. Really helped me out
Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for leaving a comment and letting other viewers know as well.
Good video. You can also take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure when pushing back on brake pistons...just so you can push them back by using your fingers.
Good to know!
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Great video and very useful thank you, I did all this step by step, however after replacing my old rotors to new I am facing minor shake in pads/steering while braking in low speeds 20-50 km/h. Don't know how to fix it.. I did wheel balance and tire's in good condition, checked everything in car all are fine, I even did proper bedding on the pads but no change at all. Any other suggestions?? Thanks
Checked for worn out suspension components
@@THEDriverMod_ Yeah, they are still in good condition. I might put back the old rotors and pads as they were not that bad and then check whether the issue is from the rotors or pads or something else. Thanks man
Can you share the ford part numbers for the 2019 version of these GT350 brake rotors?
I'll see if I can find them
FR3Z-1125-E Right side FR3Z-1125-F Left Side
Are you a Ford tech? Looks like you're working at a dealership. Nice video. Helped me a lot. ✌️👍🐍🇺🇲
I was at the time of this video
Appreciate the breakdown on how to change the front brakes!
No problem my friend! I've done it soo many times I got it down to a science!
Very interesting video. Very informative. Thank you.
Thank you, I know its not as 'pretty' as some of the other options out there bit it's straight and to the point. I appreciate the feedback!
Getting ready to do mine, great video. Thanks a ton man.
No problem, easy day!
Well done sir!
🤙🤙
Great video for diy mechanics
It's just what we try to do here for other people
Big bucks and time to do a temp swap for negligible diff in braking power... Did you really notice the diff?
Slightly. The stock drilled rotors are also developing a high speed braking vibration above 100 so in order to still get use out of the stock rotors I switch them out because they are perfectly fine for street use. Once the stock ones are done, I will only run the one set and not do the switching back and forth.
I’d just recommend lubricating the pad where the pistons meet.. helps with squeal a bit, but not eliminating it completely.
That is a good suggestion.. I've never been annoyed with brake noise, use to hearing it on track so it's just a normal thing to me. I just lubricate the parts of the pad plate that rest on the caliper.
@@THEDriverMod_ I’m too ocd.. the squeak drives me crazy just driving around town haha, but mine is not my daily so it’s cool 🤘
@@TheWhatYouNeed mine is not my daily either, its my track day weapon/ and big event poster child for my Amsoil product display! 2016, Gen1 Voodoo, original engine, 17k miles.
@@THEDriverMod_ mines a 16 tech, just hit 10k miles 🤘
I believe there is a torque spec for the caliper pin. 136 ft/lbs i might be wrong
There probably is but once you've done it as many times as I have and installed new lock tight, you kinda get a good feel for it. Never had any problems at the track with this method
yes, thats correct
Do work🔥🔥🔥🔥💪🏿🐎🐎🐍
Thanks man, I also did a video on the rears I'll release later
@@THEDriverMod_ kool..👍🏿🔥
You bought into hype.. Heat and dust displacement is key…