A BEAST OF A CHARGE CONTROLLER 🤗2 ND TO THE MIDNIGHT CLASSIC THAT STILL PERFORMS VERY WELL FROM ITS 2014 MANUFACTORY DATE . MAY THE SOLAR BE WITH YOU .
It does show watts it listed on the LCD front panel as Kw. So to read it just do this. 360 watts will show up as 0.360 Kw and 1,241 watts looks like 1.241 Kw It just takes some getting used too. For lead battery just do what Brad did and use reset method. For lithium 100% go into the user settings and preset the Bulk, float and set the equalization 5% lower as not to endanger the battery. Example I have a 48 volt battery. Max Voltage is 57.8volts So all our setting to charge it are around 56.7Volts and equitization about 56.2volts or so. Also Limit absorption to 1 hour. Less stress on lithium. Our cut off voltage is 47.8 Volts. Battery shut down on the bms is set to 47.5 Volts a dead battery is 46.5 or so. We always want to charge lithium to 95% full and keep about 10% in the battery near empty before the voltage knee drops off. Oddly these are a Grid tie setting but I think you need other Out back equipment and hubs and all the with communication. We just keep it simple. Always wire the Battery up first with the Breaker on OFF position. Then switch the breaker on and Let boot up after wires are snugged in solid. PV breaker side MUST BE OFF... Once the boot up is running.... Now that your outback is running from the battery power you can flip the PV breaker switch to allow for the suns power to come in. We found that staying under 120 volts on the PV side helps keep the unit cooler. No need to max series panels to push near 150 VOC as you risk shut down come winter and the cold weather BOOST the panel voltage to much much higher numbers! This unit with care and proper breakers on both pv (15/20 amp dc for each parallel or series ) and on the battery side between the solar charge and bank 80-90 amp dc breaker should protect it. Having a lightning arrestor in the PV control panel breaker box will save this units life on a lightning strike. Bond all panel frames with copper solid wire and from the break boxes ground to a 6 to 8 foot deep ( sunk ) grounding rod. The out backs casing has a Grounding bolt out side of the case. Wire at least a 10 gauge solid copper wire from that also to a grounding rod. You'll need omhs law to figure out what size DC breaker between Battery and Inverter if your inverter does not come with built in flip breaker or push button style. ( God help those that have inverters with solder in breaker types on the PC Board ( sign of a poorly built inverter on the cheap side.) I end up removing them and soldering in 8 gauge wire drilling a case hole and running them to an independant Air Breaker. Our 48 volt AIMS inverter can pull 6,000 watts and has built in push button breakers per Hot Leg ( L1 L2 ) each of these are capable of 3,000 watts each and totals upto the 6,000 watts in 240 volt or 3,000 watts per leg. Our additional breaker between Inverter and battery has a 350 amp on off auto Battery selector switch to kill it.
Hey Brad. The unit is showing you 0.25kw which is 250 watts that is the simultaneous display as described in the manual. I picked up a FM60 today for $100 and ironically I didn't really want another controller as I was after 500ft of PV cable for $50. However, the unit tested good and was on FW 2.000 but it makes no sense to invest in a MATE3 or HUB4 to upgrade the firmware, so I will use the unit as a killer replacement to the cheaper fire starter controllers. Mine was Q1 2010 date but very clean. Nice content and now subscribed
Thanks, yeah I figured out the watts on the display like you said awhile back. My vision is not so great so I had to look at a few times before I figured it out LOL. $100 is an amazing deal!
That is so good to see Brad - thanks mate. The size of the inductors has more to do with frequency of the DC to DC inverter, the thickness of the wire used is a measure of the current that flows through them. You mount it so the top sticks up beyond the top of the shelf wall, but I guess you want easy access for filming the display. Can I suggest the addition of a few wireless cameras? You can then put up composite shots of several things and displays at once without too much rooting around.
Yes, actually I was thinking the same with the top sticking up over the top shelf. That's a good idea with the cameras. I have a box full of security cameras, I might put some to work. Thanks!
I think it's on par with Victron in quality, and performance. However there are two things it's lacking, Bluetooth, and the ability to start/run from PV. Now it does have two positives over Victron, serviceability, and price. Thanks
Greetings sir. Found ur videos thru the one about crypto mining with solar. Which is what I’m wanting to get into. Then came across this vid when looking thru ur catalog. And I was shocked. I have searched high and low (on TH-cam) for info on this controller. And it seems to be quite limited. Coincidentally I have this exact same controller and entire setup that goes with it. Minus the batteries sadly. They started expanding about 2 years ago. Anyway would love to chat about the flex master and crypto mining using solar in general. I’m on Twitter or discord if u use either of those. Or yahoo for email. Handle the same on all platforms. Great vids btw. And subscribed. ✌🏼✌🏼
A BEAST OF A CHARGE CONTROLLER 🤗2 ND TO THE MIDNIGHT CLASSIC THAT STILL PERFORMS VERY WELL FROM ITS 2014 MANUFACTORY DATE . MAY THE SOLAR BE WITH YOU .
Both beasts, both however, benefit from extra external fans in hot climates.
It's pretty impressive. I need to try the Midnight Classic. Thanks!
It does show watts it listed on the LCD front panel as Kw. So to read it just do this. 360 watts will show up as 0.360 Kw and 1,241 watts looks like 1.241 Kw It just takes some getting used too. For lead battery just do what Brad did and use reset method. For lithium 100% go into the user settings and preset the Bulk, float and set the equalization 5% lower as not to endanger the battery. Example I have a 48 volt battery. Max Voltage is 57.8volts So all our setting to charge it are around 56.7Volts and equitization about 56.2volts or so. Also Limit absorption to 1 hour. Less stress on lithium.
Our cut off voltage is 47.8 Volts. Battery shut down on the bms is set to 47.5 Volts a dead battery is 46.5 or so.
We always want to charge lithium to 95% full and keep about 10% in the battery near empty before the voltage knee drops off.
Oddly these are a Grid tie setting but I think you need other Out back equipment and hubs and all the with communication.
We just keep it simple.
Always wire the Battery up first with the Breaker on OFF position. Then switch the breaker on and Let boot up after wires are snugged in solid.
PV breaker side MUST BE OFF...
Once the boot up is running....
Now that your outback is running from the battery power you can flip the PV breaker switch to allow for the suns power to come in.
We found that staying under 120 volts on the PV side helps keep the unit cooler. No need to max series panels to push near 150 VOC as you risk shut down come winter and the cold weather BOOST the panel voltage to much much higher numbers!
This unit with care and proper breakers on both pv (15/20 amp dc for each parallel or series ) and on the battery side between the solar charge and bank 80-90 amp dc breaker should protect it.
Having a lightning arrestor in the PV control panel breaker box will save this units life on a lightning strike. Bond all panel frames with copper solid wire and from the break boxes ground to a 6 to 8 foot deep ( sunk ) grounding rod.
The out backs casing has a Grounding bolt out side of the case. Wire at least a 10 gauge solid copper wire from that also to a grounding rod.
You'll need omhs law to figure out what size DC breaker between Battery and Inverter if your inverter does not come with built in flip breaker or push button style. ( God help those that have inverters with solder in breaker types on the PC Board ( sign of a poorly built inverter on the cheap side.) I end up removing them and soldering in 8 gauge wire drilling a case hole and running them to an independant Air Breaker.
Our 48 volt AIMS inverter can pull 6,000 watts and has built in push button breakers per Hot Leg ( L1 L2 ) each of these are capable of 3,000 watts each and totals upto the 6,000 watts in 240 volt or 3,000 watts per leg.
Our additional breaker between Inverter and battery has a 350 amp on off auto Battery selector switch to kill it.
Hey Brad. The unit is showing you 0.25kw which is 250 watts that is the simultaneous display as described in the manual. I picked up a FM60 today for $100 and ironically I didn't really want another controller as I was after 500ft of PV cable for $50. However, the unit tested good and was on FW 2.000 but it makes no sense to invest in a MATE3 or HUB4 to upgrade the firmware, so I will use the unit as a killer replacement to the cheaper fire starter controllers. Mine was Q1 2010 date but very clean. Nice content and now subscribed
Thanks, yeah I figured out the watts on the display like you said awhile back. My vision is not so great so I had to look at a few times before I figured it out LOL. $100 is an amazing deal!
That is so good to see Brad - thanks mate.
The size of the inductors has more to do with frequency of the DC to DC inverter, the thickness of the wire used is a measure of the current that flows through them.
You mount it so the top sticks up beyond the top of the shelf wall, but I guess you want easy access for filming the display. Can I suggest the addition of a few wireless cameras? You can then put up composite shots of several things and displays at once without too much rooting around.
Yes, actually I was thinking the same with the top sticking up over the top shelf. That's a good idea with the cameras. I have a box full of security cameras, I might put some to work. Thanks!
Top 3 one of the best. Running 3. Just need a doctorate to program haha.
Nice. I'm surprised I don't see more of these. This thing is super high quality, and really the price is not too bad.
I run two of these...hands down the best
Another great video. So how many Watt of panels you are feeding it?
That SCC is built like a tank!
It was 3x 435w panels I had running to it. Yeah, it's a monster. Thanks!
Cool inverter. Do you like it as good as the victron stuff?
I think it's on par with Victron in quality, and performance. However there are two things it's lacking, Bluetooth, and the ability to start/run from PV. Now it does have two positives over Victron, serviceability, and price. Thanks
I've got one of these on the ranch, but man, it's got way to many settings, and the manual really doesn't help much. Thanks
Great video
Can this controller charge lithium iron phosphate batteries?
Any problem with 1140 watt? can i exceed the recommended wattage limit 1000w on 12 volts system?
I've been looking at these how much did you pick it up for if you don't mind me asking?
$275 on this one. Looks like you can get them for little over 400 on Amazon. I have a link in the description.
Thought he said new is 400.Well more like 500 a month later.
Yeah, prices have been all over the place. Sorry
@@BradCagle makes your used one a good deal.
promo sm
Greetings sir. Found ur videos thru the one about crypto mining with solar. Which is what I’m wanting to get into. Then came across this vid when looking thru ur catalog. And I was shocked. I have searched high and low (on TH-cam) for info on this controller. And it seems to be quite limited. Coincidentally I have this exact same controller and entire setup that goes with it. Minus the batteries sadly. They started expanding about 2 years ago. Anyway would love to chat about the flex master and crypto mining using solar in general. I’m on Twitter or discord if u use either of those. Or yahoo for email. Handle the same on all platforms. Great vids btw. And subscribed. ✌🏼✌🏼