I will never understand why these slabs are specified with these crazy high compression strengths. Why, in a residential stick frame, would I ever need 3500 psi? It’s not a skyscraper, it’s a wooden box with 3 people in it.
Hey Mike, I have learned so much about concrete from watching your videos. Thanks to you and your crew I have installed a sidewalk in front of my house. Also installed a concrete apron on the eve side of my house which slopes into a french drain I dug. Thanks again!
Nice work and explanation Mike. Here in NE Minnesota, concrete is $160/yard plus a $285 delivery charge per truck. We are one hour away from the concrete plant. I received bids of $13,900 and $16,500 to pour my 24 x 40 insulated, thickened edge slab with rebar. So, I decided to do it myself, which will be done within the next 3 weeks. My cost will be about $7,000 or so. I will be pouring it in two 20 x 24 sections, to make it easier to deal with. Keep up the great work and teaching.
It’s impressive how many projects you got going and also one of the many strengths you got going is explaining your plans … the voice over is great too You explain in detail and that’s fantastic
@@MikeDayConcrete are you kidding? The narration is gold for me: I don't know a damn thing about your line of work but it's good to see a pro talk about his craft.
It's come a long way since I was in the brick and concrete business. $30 a yard 4k concrete...delivered. a trailer full of rebar and ties for a 100 dollar bill and paying my unskilled labor $5 an hour. I retain one thing from those days. Muscles.
Wonderful job. I worked at a concrete plant for 10 years. I have seen just about everything possible. Very impressed on your crew and the way everyone worked together. Also the battery powered screed looks to be a lot easier to use than the gas engine design.
Basically $10.00 sq ft . FOR Foam, forms, wire, concrete and labor. Now add stone and grade work. And let's not forget the pex water lines. Roughly a $25,000 start. Great information. And watching a well oiled crew work together. Team work is a must, all with the same goal.
@@nitro2037 I’ve been doing concrete for 30 years and I am a 3 generation concrete guy, I mostly do decorative concrete now but have done many monolithic slabs, I actually run the company and do all the quoting too. This is a 32’ by 60’ monolithic pad, not a 2.5 million dollar log cabin. On the high end with plumbing ran under the slab, which isn’t much, guys are usually out of there in a days, electric not a big deal just run the right size conduit and that’s it. Ur looking at high end cost tops at 40k. That’s to excavate, if it’s fairly flat but that also depends on how much fill or digging is involved and even then it’s not moving the needle 10k, we’re talking maybe 1k-2k. Frame everything, have guys running plumbing and electric, lay foam, vapor barrier, mesh and run lines, pour, finish, strip, cut and onto the next. That leaves me with a 15k profit after all said and done for something we can bang out in a work week with 3 guys…that’s also quoting a 5 inch slab with 16 inch haunch around the outside, I am sure every state varies on the depth of the haunch. Sure would I love to charge 70k yes but there is 10 other guys willing to charge half that and I am not out to make a million dollars off of a residential job for something that a lot of other people can do, for my decorative work I do charge top end because a lot of people can’t do what I do. Supply and demand, simple economics 😉
@@nitro2037 I was at 8k for concrete, double that for foam and wire. That’s 16k, lumber, vapor barrier $600 and no pump needed but if u did thats and xtra 1k, add 2k for plumbing and electric and ur under 20k, the rest is labor cost and profit. Thats easily graded in a day, framed in a day and a day for everything else, poured in 6-7 hours depending on temp and stripped and cut in half a day… c ya pay me….Now if I charged 70k for that, 95% of people would tell me to pound salt
@@MikeDayConcrete victory concrete sort of sent us to see if u realy make that easyy money lol 😆 No realy like the way you guys work in usa cant get enuff of it
I really applicate you sharing the dimensions, depths and yards. Can you speak at all to the wire mesh, vapor barrier, radiant heat tubing and the foam insulation?
It's looking good, what impressed me is the coordination and team work of your guys. That alone makes the job so much easier. Good video stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Man that speed demon makes it look like u bull floated almost already.. what a magic worker. You guys make it look easy I been pouring 8 years have my own company and have to say your crew is top of the line make sure you charge for your service is prestine 👍 good vibes from arkansas
Everyone I know wants the heating tubs on the bottom. Mainly so when they frame the inside walls they dont hit them with a faster. (Nail,tapcon or etc.).
Always great vids Only question is why not put the rebar on top of the radiant tubing so it is suspended? Never done it but I watch to learn because my plan is to do this same build. Thanks
It's not more efficient to put the pipe at the bottom of the slab. It actually requires more heat and energy to get the same amount of heat to the surface. They only advantage is easier installation (no chairs) and easier to walk on during pour. If you're going to put radiant on the bottom of the slab, using foam staples is easier if wire mesh is not structurally needed.
did you pretest the radiant heat tubing to make sure there are no leaks BEFORE you poured the concrete? you didnt discuss the cost of this. what are we looking at per square?
Hi Mike….thank you for an awesome video. I appreciate how you explain the smaller details for those of us who don’t have a strong working knowledge of this craft. I have a question or two if I may? I live in Durango Colorado…and I believe the frost line is about 32”. I am in the process of designing a 60x40 shop/garage. I am unsure on how to build footings below frontline? In this job…you had a “thickened edge”….is it the isolation that allows you to not have to be below frontline? It appears to me you are just about at grade, and I believe you said the edge was 12”? Would you recommend an insulated slab like this without using radiant heating? I am on the fence on whether to use radiant heating….I am also considering using ICF which would provide a very well insulated shop. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you in advance….Steve.
I worked around Durango for a while with a buddy who was doing solar, and visited the earthship colony in Taos. If you're not familiar with earthships, check it out.
I have no intentions on doing some major concrete work like this because I’ll hire guys like these (Wish I could hire you all here in Iowa but that’s quite a jump, I know.) & I don’t really know anything about concrete work but this is not only fascinating but every one of your videos are truly intriguing. I subscribed some time ago and I love the way you explain your processes & charges there in Maine. Awesome Job!!!! 👌🏾👍🏽👌🏾👍🏽
@@MikeDayConcrete Oh, I’m sure you have a conglomerate of followers. Great work on all the videos I’ve seen you produce. Your crew is awesome dude!!!! 💯
I see the two-step drag I did a warehouse back in 87 with a company for Massachusetts cuz that's how they pulled up concrete in Jersey we did the shake shake
So I turned up on site, to discover the sub grade was off by 4 inches over the 16ft width, told the client i have to re- grade the base now before the pour - nuts. Luckily we had allowed a bit of extra time to make the forms, extra 2 tonnes of stone and wacker plate sorted it. I think the excavator was a cheap cash job.
Great video! I'm going to be building an A-Frame this spring just north of you guys in eustis. The kit company I'm ordering the A-Frame from wants me to put it on a crawlspace foundation. I'm no concrete expert, but it seems like a crawlspace would be significantly less concrete than a slab and should be much cheaper. Am I correct with that assessment? The house I'm building is about 34fr long and 26ft wide
Great job...maybe I missed that part but what goes beneath the styrofoam...this is what I m looking at doing...somewhat colder winters here in Quebec but I d sudpect the strategy is similar...
Great video, thanks for sharing I am getting ready to build our home (slab on grade) in Ashaway RI this Spring. My question on your video is this project is in Maine (tons of frost) and yet no frost walls down below the frost line? Also lots of the information i have rec'd so far is "don't" put the radiant piping in floors because takes to long for heat to transfer upwards (maybe your owner of this house can reply) and heating temperature needs to be higher vs if you laid the radiant on top of slab with something like Warmboard, Ecowarm Radiantboard? thanks for your help. Dan
Mike, what type of reinforcing would you put under a house finished slab floor (no radiant heat) and garage - rebar? Steel Mesh? Fiberglass? ICF house in NH. Thanks!
I'm a concrete finisher in Adelaide Australia 20 yrs experience can do everything I charge day rate $500. What do your finishers that you call in to help charge
Good looking work Mike. I wish I could still find tradesman like yourself down here in GA. My subs are grinding every slab because they don't meet our tolerances. What are the tolerances up there?
Was this slab a monolithic? And what is the edge depth around the perimeter? I am in RI and would like to have the exact slab done for a small 36x24 ranch. My problem is finding a crew to do it. Any recommendations thanks Doug Stone
Hi Doug I am building this spring in RI using ICF and had same question, thought you had to have frost wall done first then pour your slab on grade. Dan in Ashaway RI
No ICF used for wall poured concrete I think however that a ICF wall is the way to go I had to add 2” of R10 insulation and water proof the wall Labor intensive since I did that myself
What was that small area (12" x 12") that wasn't cemented? Looked like it had a form around it. Not a contractor, just curious. Love these videos. You have a great Team.
What temperature causes that release? I wouldn't think this would get nearly hot enough. A quick search told me it softens at 212 degrees. I honestly have no idea what I'm talking about and am just curious.
I will never understand why these slabs are specified with these crazy high compression strengths. Why, in a residential stick frame, would I ever need 3500 psi? It’s not a skyscraper, it’s a wooden box with 3 people in it.
Hey Mike, I have learned so much about concrete from watching your videos. Thanks to you and your crew I have installed a sidewalk in front of my house. Also installed a concrete apron on the eve side of my house which slopes into a french drain I dug. Thanks again!
I think those heated floors make a whole lot of sense for areas where it gets very cold. If I ever build again, I’ll be putting them in.
Nice work and explanation Mike. Here in NE Minnesota, concrete is $160/yard plus a $285 delivery charge per truck. We are one hour away from the concrete plant. I received bids of $13,900 and $16,500 to pour my 24 x 40 insulated, thickened edge slab with rebar. So, I decided to do it myself, which will be done within the next 3 weeks. My cost will be about $7,000 or so. I will be pouring it in two 20 x 24 sections, to make it easier to deal with. Keep up the great work and teaching.
Thanks for sharing Greg. Good luck with the slab!
How did your pour go? What slump did you use?
@@PanzerBuyer I used a 6” slump with water reducer. Pour went well
@@gtfangel are inspectors a little more critical on a non- pro slab install?
@@josephcurran9924 No inspectors here where we poured
It’s impressive how many projects you got going and also one of the many strengths you got going is explaining your plans … the voice over is great too
You explain in detail and that’s fantastic
Thanks, that's good to hear. Sometimes I wonder if I should just play music and not narrate the video.
@@MikeDayConcrete narrate the video is way better
@@MikeDayConcrete are you kidding? The narration is gold for me: I don't know a damn thing about your line of work but it's good to see a pro talk about his craft.
@@MikeDayConcrete I really enjoy the narration too.
...keep the narration!
It's come a long way since I was in the brick and concrete business. $30 a yard 4k concrete...delivered. a trailer full of rebar and ties for a 100 dollar bill and paying my unskilled labor $5 an hour.
I retain one thing from those days. Muscles.
I been pouring concrete for forty years, and I have to say you guys are good 👍.
Wonderful job. I worked at a concrete plant for 10 years. I have seen just about everything possible. Very impressed on your crew and the way everyone worked together. Also the battery powered screed looks to be a lot easier to use than the gas engine design.
Thanks Gary! We like the battery one over the gas powered.
we recently got a power screed at our hardscapes company and man…it’s a game changer
They are nice.
Basically $10.00 sq ft . FOR Foam, forms, wire, concrete and labor.
Now add stone and grade work. And let's not forget the pex water lines. Roughly a $25,000 start.
Great information. And watching a well oiled crew work together. Team work is a must, all with the same goal.
@@nitro2037ur out of ur mind, don’t know where u get those prices
@@nitro2037 I’ve been doing concrete for 30 years and I am a 3 generation concrete guy, I mostly do decorative concrete now but have done many monolithic slabs, I actually run the company and do all the quoting too. This is a 32’ by 60’ monolithic pad, not a 2.5 million dollar log cabin. On the high end with plumbing ran under the slab, which isn’t much, guys are usually out of there in a days, electric not a big deal just run the right size conduit and that’s it. Ur looking at high end cost tops at 40k. That’s to excavate, if it’s fairly flat but that also depends on how much fill or digging is involved and even then it’s not moving the needle 10k, we’re talking maybe 1k-2k. Frame everything, have guys running plumbing and electric, lay foam, vapor barrier, mesh and run lines, pour, finish, strip, cut and onto the next. That leaves me with a 15k profit after all said and done for something we can bang out in a work week with 3 guys…that’s also quoting a 5 inch slab with 16 inch haunch around the outside, I am sure every state varies on the depth of the haunch. Sure would I love to charge 70k yes but there is 10 other guys willing to charge half that and I am not out to make a million dollars off of a residential job for something that a lot of other people can do, for my decorative work I do charge top end because a lot of people can’t do what I do. Supply and demand, simple economics 😉
@@nitro2037 I was at 8k for concrete, double that for foam and wire. That’s 16k, lumber, vapor barrier $600 and no pump needed but if u did thats and xtra 1k, add 2k for plumbing and electric and ur under 20k, the rest is labor cost and profit. Thats easily graded in a day, framed in a day and a day for everything else, poured in 6-7 hours depending on temp and stripped and cut in half a day… c ya pay me….Now if I charged 70k for that, 95% of people would tell me to pound salt
@@nitro2037 u own me a drink
I'm a big sucker for watching Pro's like this, it's like ASMR for my brain,,,ty :D
We are hand mixing and pouring our house slab ourselves, fun stuff. 👍😊
How did it come out? I’m thinking about building on my land.
Very nice work as usual!
It's a pleasure to watch professionals at work!
made in USA and made right. I am an immigrant and I am proud to be an American citizen today.
Just so u kno the typical American citizen wouldn’t concider you one ..
Typical American citizen here, congrats on ur citizenship
Don't listen to the negative Nancy. Most Americans understand what citizenship means. Welcome brother.
In our country concreet is 60 to 90€ per cubic meter, thats with pump. Around 55 to 80 $ per yard
Just poped over from my normal concrete channel you guys are good to nice workmanship
Thanks Chris!!
@@MikeDayConcrete victory concrete sort of sent us to see if u realy make that easyy money lol 😆
No realy like the way you guys work in usa cant get enuff of it
I downloaded this one too. Thanks for the money talk. Some folks may not know what slump is or have heard of a slump test. And why it's important.
That screed is impressive, perfect for slabs this big..
It is yes. We like it!
I really applicate you sharing the dimensions, depths and yards. Can you speak at all to the wire mesh, vapor barrier, radiant heat tubing and the foam insulation?
Thanks for putting the price info out there!
You bet!
So how much is it
Super helpful. I'm going to be doing this same style monolithic slab soon
It's looking good, what impressed me is the coordination and team work of your guys. That alone makes the job so much easier. Good video stay safe and healthy. Thanks 😊
Thank you Jose!
Based in Ireland, looking at pouring a similar slab, is the insulation you use high density and only 2 inches !?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the pricing info. Very helpful on my own upcoming project.
Man that speed demon makes it look like u bull floated almost already.. what a magic worker. You guys make it look easy I been pouring 8 years have my own company and have to say your crew is top of the line make sure you charge for your service is prestine 👍 good vibes from arkansas
Everyone I know wants the heating tubs on the bottom. Mainly so when they frame the inside walls they dont hit them with a faster. (Nail,tapcon or etc.).
Always great vids
Only question is why not put the rebar on top of the radiant tubing so it is suspended?
Never done it but I watch to learn because my plan is to do this same build.
Thanks
It's not more efficient to put the pipe at the bottom of the slab. It actually requires more heat and energy to get the same amount of heat to the surface. They only advantage is easier installation (no chairs) and easier to walk on during pour. If you're going to put radiant on the bottom of the slab, using foam staples is easier if wire mesh is not structurally needed.
did you pretest the radiant heat tubing to make sure there are no leaks BEFORE you poured the concrete? you didnt discuss the cost of this. what are we looking at per square?
What a team! operating like a well-oiled machine. Another great video mike 👍
Ike, is that you? Thanks man!
Hi Mike….thank you for an awesome video. I appreciate how you explain the smaller details for those of us who don’t have a strong working knowledge of this craft.
I have a question or two if I may? I live in Durango Colorado…and I believe the frost line is about 32”. I am in the process of designing a 60x40 shop/garage. I am unsure on how to build footings below frontline? In this job…you had a “thickened edge”….is it the isolation that allows you to not have to be below frontline? It appears to me you are just about at grade, and I believe you said the edge was 12”?
Would you recommend an insulated slab like this without using radiant heating? I am on the fence on whether to use radiant heating….I am also considering using ICF which would provide a very well insulated shop. I would appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you in advance….Steve.
Steve i am going to be using ICF on my house starting this spring and have same questions. What did you find out?
I worked around Durango for a while with a buddy who was doing solar, and visited the earthship colony in Taos. If you're not familiar with earthships, check it out.
I have no intentions on doing some major concrete work like this because I’ll hire guys like these (Wish I could hire you all here in Iowa but that’s quite a jump, I know.) & I don’t really know anything about concrete work but this is not only fascinating but every one of your videos are truly intriguing. I subscribed some time ago and I love the way you explain your processes & charges there in Maine. Awesome Job!!!! 👌🏾👍🏽👌🏾👍🏽
Hi Keith, thanks for the insight. I'm glad my videos are interesting to some of you.
@@MikeDayConcrete Oh, I’m sure you have a conglomerate of followers. Great work on all the videos I’ve seen you produce. Your crew is awesome dude!!!! 💯
@@MikeDayConcrete fu
I see the two-step drag I did a warehouse back in 87 with a company for Massachusetts cuz that's how they pulled up concrete in Jersey we did the shake shake
Excelente trabajo 👌👌 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱
Thank you!
So I turned up on site, to discover the sub grade was off by 4 inches over the 16ft width, told the client i have to re- grade the base now before the pour - nuts. Luckily we had allowed a bit of extra time to make the forms, extra 2 tonnes of stone and wacker plate sorted it. I think the excavator was a cheap cash job.
What would the price be for 60'x40' today for material and concrete?
In Seattle that would be $35-$40k all day
Never worked with that system.
Good info in the video!👍🏽
Looks good guys. Why aren't concrete driveways more popular in the northeast?
Too much de-icing salts used here. Spalls them the first year.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks Mike
Nice teamwork!
Thanks!
Great video! I'm going to be building an A-Frame this spring just north of you guys in eustis. The kit company I'm ordering the A-Frame from wants me to put it on a crawlspace foundation. I'm no concrete expert, but it seems like a crawlspace would be significantly less concrete than a slab and should be much cheaper. Am I correct with that assessment? The house I'm building is about 34fr long and 26ft wide
Hey is 125 per yard for the labor high?
Great job...maybe I missed that part but what goes beneath the styrofoam...this is what I m looking at doing...somewhat colder winters here in Quebec but I d sudpect the strategy is similar...
I always put 4 Mila on top of the insulation from keeping it floating up
Great video, thanks for sharing I am getting ready to build our home (slab on grade) in Ashaway RI this Spring. My question on your video is this project is in Maine (tons of frost) and yet no frost walls down below the frost line? Also lots of the information i have rec'd so far is "don't" put the radiant piping in floors because takes to long for heat to transfer upwards (maybe your owner of this house can reply) and heating temperature needs to be higher vs if you laid the radiant on top of slab with something like Warmboard, Ecowarm Radiantboard? thanks for your help. Dan
What if you put the rebar over the PEX tube? Rebar on little chairs so it does not smash the PEX.
That would be ok to do.
I am out here in Colorado. I really appreciate your videos Mike. Great job
Nice work Mike!
Thanks Frank!
Well , enjoy your video ! Your are blessed with workers !
I am a little surprised that a Maine residence is being built without a basement. Radiant heat can be in the floor.
Mike, what type of reinforcing would you put under a house finished slab floor (no radiant heat) and garage - rebar? Steel Mesh? Fiberglass? ICF house in NH. Thanks!
I thought frostline was 24”in Maine? Why only 12” foundation ?
I'm a concrete finisher in Adelaide Australia 20 yrs experience can do everything I charge day rate $500. What do your finishers that you call in to help charge
Does the gas powered vibrating screed weigh more make it a little easier for someone who’s not used one before
Won't the Styrofoam compress over time under the slab?
Whats the total cost and are you around Gardiner Maine?
Have you tried using the mono slab ez pour foam for framing up monolith slab?
is it that cold already up in Maine? sweatshirts in the morning?
No, this was from this Spring.
Is there a level built-in to that new Screet ??
I love your narration man awesome,
Pardon my ignorance but don’t you have to have the perimeter walls below the frost line ? TIA
not on a slab on grade.But you better have a really well prepped base.Thats the key.
Any details on the footings?
Great info and great video as usual
Made in Maine great job like to see you power trowel
was that heat pvc pipe? OK You just answered my question on the video!👍 Thanks
That was pex-a.
Haha, yes John, pex tubing for radiant heat
Good looking work Mike. I wish I could still find tradesman like yourself down here in GA. My subs are grinding every slab because they don't meet our tolerances. What are the tolerances up there?
Is the battery screed demon considerably slower than the gas?
Do you have to wire tied the pex to the rebar to stay in place ?
Could you use this system to install heated driveway?
Very nice, thanks for the information.
What’s Rebah? 🤣 Awesome info! Really helped me.
Happy to help!
What is the thickness of the slab??
What would you charge if you do the grading
Was this slab a monolithic?
And what is the edge depth around the perimeter?
I am in RI and would like to have the exact slab done for a small 36x24 ranch.
My problem is finding a crew to do it.
Any recommendations thanks
Doug Stone
Hi Doug I am building this spring in RI using ICF and had same question, thought you had to have frost wall done first then pour your slab on grade. Dan in Ashaway RI
Hi Dan
I ended up doing a 42” in the ground frost wall.
Put sewer line and water line in
Back filled the exterior and will let it sit for the winter
@@stonebody where are you building and what ICF product/company are you going to use? Dan
No ICF used for wall poured concrete
I think however that a ICF wall is the way to go
I had to add 2” of R10 insulation and water proof the wall
Labor intensive since I did that myself
sure like your work. great crew
What was that small area (12" x 12") that wasn't cemented? Looked like it had a form around it. Not a contractor, just curious. Love these videos. You have a great Team.
Tub or shower drain location
How much you charge for something like that says
Thank you for the info. Nice work.
Do you work in MA
Great work, how is the Back of your Team afther a job like this👍😅
It's not bad when you do it every day. No problems!
American Craftsmen at work. Nice.
Thanks John!
Good work!
Will the 2 x 6 bottom plate extend over the 2 inch perimeter foam? Or will the 2 x 6 bottom plate be flush with the edge of the concrete?
That's a good question. I'd like to know also
How long does it take for the insulation to break down underneath the foundation?
Is it really cold there now?
How do you pay your help? Hourly or daily?
They're on payroll. Salary. Work comp and all the good stuff that goes along with it.
@@MikeDayConcrete how long did it take you to find your two main guys? Do y’all have problems finding help in your state?
seems fair. @ $75,000 times 4 guys here@@MikeDayConcrete
We got some jobs where guys will do the gravel up to 4" out. Not kidding at all. 6 inch slab is anywhere from 2 icnhes to 10
I kinda wanna learn how to do this
Beautiful work
Thanks Mike!
Are you in texas
Interesting they want the tubing at the bottom.
Why a slab and not a basement in Maine?
Great info!!
Thanks
Since heating Styrofoam releases carcinogens, is there an alternative to Styrofoam?
What temperature causes that release? I wouldn't think this would get nearly hot enough. A quick search told me it softens at 212 degrees. I honestly have no idea what I'm talking about and am just curious.
Hi where are you situated in South Africa Durban
It is weird to see you guys wearing sweatshirts in the morning while I am sweating through my shirt from the stagnant heat and humidity in Missouri. 🥵
Dosent that shift with time
Your quite high in your square foot charge but, if it works then don't change it