Shop air pressure must be greater than 100 psi The correct procedure to use the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit (leakdown tester) is: 1. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder to be tested. 2. Screw the test rig hose into the spark plug hole. 3. Rotate the cylinder until air comes out the test rig air hose to verify the piston is coming up on compression stroke in the cylinder. 4. Remove the test rig air hose and insert a long screwdriver squarely into the spark plug hole - do not allow the piston to jam the screwdriver against the cylinder wall - 5. Use the screwdriver to indicate when the piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. 6. If you have a flywheel lock, put it on. If you don't, use a breaker bar and exactly correct size socket to hold the crankshaft at that piston TDC. WARNING, when you introduce pressurized air into the cylinder, that engine is going to want to turn over and the breaker bar will beat the living shit out of whoever is supposed to be holding the crankshaft and does not have a death grip on the breaker bar! 7. Turn the regulator counterclockwise two turns and connect shop air to the leakdown test rig. The shop side gauge will read shop air pressure. 8. Set the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi. If it is pegged, turn the regulator clockwise to bring the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi. If the needle points to less than 100 psi, turn the regulator adjust knob clockwise to bring the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi. 9. Screw the test rig air hose into the spark plug hole. 10. Warn whoever is holding the breaker bar to hold on and expect to feel force on the breaker bar (technically if the piston is at TDC, the engine crankshaft will have no tendency to rotate. However, if the piston is not at TDC air at 100 psi on the piston is going to exert rotating force on the crankshaft which means the breaker bar can go flying. The socket must be held firmly onto the crankshaft nut and not allowed to move at all .) 11. Connect the test rig to the test rig air hose that it screwed into the spark plug hole. 12. Read the cylinder side gauge - whatever pressure is indicated is the percentage of air held in the cylinder. For example, if the cylinder side gauge reads 85 psi, then leakage is 15%. Anything less than 80 psi, there is a major defect. As the man says in the video, at this point listen to discover where the air is escaping, either through the valves or into the crankcase (indicating worn rings or rings not seated - squirt penetrating oil into the cylinders and rotate the engine with the spark plugs out to possibly free the rings - it worked for me once when I was going to reject a Subaru engine, went from 85 psi compression to 210 psi. Other test rigs have a color coded cylinder side gauge. The green range is from 100% down to about 60 psi ( th-cam.com/video/qF5Zj_r4-Kg/w-d-xo.html&feature=emb_logo , at the 1:25 minute mark.) OTC provides a chart inside the case lid that shows percentages related to pressures less than 100 psi. However, at 100psi the percentage correlates exactly to the cylinder side gauge pressure. That's how I use the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit (leakdown tester).
I know I've mentioned this before, but one of the suckiest situations is when you've got a blown head gasket with coolant leaking into the cylinders. This happened to my brother in law's truck, so I replaced the head gasket for him, but it still wouldn't crank over. The reason was too much coolant had flowed into the piston when the head gasket failed and scored the cylinder letting the compression slip into the bottom end of the motor. Unfortunately that's one of those things you just don't know until you try to repair it. Well... unless you have a borescope... which I do, so I guess I'm just a fool lol. The situation you've got here is basically the same, trying to fix it only to find out the motor is toast. Never a good time, especially after doing a lot of hard work heh.
Yeah I wasn't a very happy camper. This is my girlfriends car and she wasn't either! Ill be making a video series of an engine replacement on this car in the future though, so there is a plus!
MattsMotorz When should we expect this engine replacement video? I have a similar car and problem. Great videos of the intake repair and struts also- very helpful and clear. Thanks a lot.
Thanks! I've decided that I am going to just replace the heads as I believe they are the root of the problem. I will do this after I am finished with the Pontiac Videos. So I am hoping within a month. Sorry it can't be sooner!
MATTSMOTORZ, 1.)the actual leakdown test tool You set the air compressor to 100psi, the left meter on the leakdown test tool should measure 100psi and the right meter should measure 0% to 20% of leakage for a good cylinder? 2.) You take out all the spark plugs out of the engine and rotate the crank until you get TDC values closed for that cylinder. Next you use an adapter hose to connect it to the leakdown test tool to measure the leakage of the cylinder and listen to any "Hissing" from the dipstick pipe, Hissing from the exhaust pipe/exhaust valve, Hissing from the headgasket, or bubbles from the cars radiator coolant has bubbles?
would doing this test on junyard motor be a good idea? I mean it would suck swapping a junyard motor, and doing all that work just to find out the motor is junk.
+Daryl Hawes It WAS TDC. Even if by chance I was slightly off, the inlet valve wouldn't be anywhere near opening since the next phase in the 4 stroke cycle would be exhaust, and that would be after the piston goes all the way down first.
I changed my intake manifold my spark plugs and the spark plug wires and both of my ignition coils and the car is still shaking with a rough idle what can I do to fix that problem
Piston rings. It means the cylinder bores in the block are worn to a point where it is compromising compression. The answer is indeed a new engine (or a rebuild).
Shop air pressure must be greater than 100 psi
The correct procedure to use the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit (leakdown tester) is:
1. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder to be tested.
2. Screw the test rig hose into the spark plug hole.
3. Rotate the cylinder until air comes out the test rig air hose to verify the piston is coming up on compression stroke in the cylinder.
4. Remove the test rig air hose and insert a long screwdriver squarely into the spark plug hole - do not allow the piston to jam the screwdriver against the cylinder wall -
5. Use the screwdriver to indicate when the piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
6. If you have a flywheel lock, put it on. If you don't, use a breaker bar and exactly correct size socket to hold the crankshaft at that piston TDC.
WARNING, when you introduce pressurized air into the cylinder, that engine is going to want to turn over and the breaker bar will beat the living shit out of whoever is supposed to be holding the crankshaft and does not have a death grip on the breaker bar!
7. Turn the regulator counterclockwise two turns and connect shop air to the leakdown test rig. The shop side gauge will read shop air pressure.
8. Set the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi.
If it is pegged, turn the regulator clockwise to bring the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi.
If the needle points to less than 100 psi, turn the regulator adjust knob clockwise to bring the cylinder side gauge to 100 psi.
9. Screw the test rig air hose into the spark plug hole.
10. Warn whoever is holding the breaker bar to hold on and expect to feel force on the breaker bar (technically if the piston is at TDC, the engine crankshaft will have no tendency to rotate. However, if the piston is not at TDC air at 100 psi on the piston is going to exert rotating force on the crankshaft which means the breaker bar can go flying. The socket must be held firmly onto the crankshaft nut and not allowed to move at all .)
11. Connect the test rig to the test rig air hose that it screwed into the spark plug hole.
12. Read the cylinder side gauge - whatever pressure is indicated is the percentage of air held in the cylinder. For example, if the cylinder side gauge reads 85 psi, then leakage is 15%. Anything less than 80 psi, there is a major defect. As the man says in the video, at this point listen to discover where the air is escaping, either through the valves or into the crankcase (indicating worn rings or rings not seated - squirt penetrating oil into the cylinders and rotate the engine with the spark plugs out to possibly free the rings - it worked for me once when I was going to reject a Subaru engine, went from 85 psi compression to 210 psi. Other test rigs have a color coded cylinder side gauge. The green range is from 100% down to about 60 psi ( th-cam.com/video/qF5Zj_r4-Kg/w-d-xo.html&feature=emb_logo , at the 1:25 minute mark.)
OTC provides a chart inside the case lid that shows percentages related to pressures less than 100 psi. However, at 100psi the percentage correlates exactly to the cylinder side gauge pressure.
That's how I use the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit (leakdown tester).
I know I've mentioned this before, but one of the suckiest situations is when you've got a blown head gasket with coolant leaking into the cylinders. This happened to my brother in law's truck, so I replaced the head gasket for him, but it still wouldn't crank over. The reason was too much coolant had flowed into the piston when the head gasket failed and scored the cylinder letting the compression slip into the bottom end of the motor. Unfortunately that's one of those things you just don't know until you try to repair it. Well... unless you have a borescope... which I do, so I guess I'm just a fool lol. The situation you've got here is basically the same, trying to fix it only to find out the motor is toast. Never a good time, especially after doing a lot of hard work heh.
Yeah I wasn't a very happy camper. This is my girlfriends car and she wasn't either! Ill be making a video series of an engine replacement on this car in the future though, so there is a plus!
MattsMotorz When should we expect this engine replacement video? I have a similar car and problem. Great videos of the intake repair and struts also- very helpful and clear. Thanks a lot.
Thanks! I've decided that I am going to just replace the heads as I believe they are the root of the problem. I will do this after I am finished with the Pontiac Videos. So I am hoping within a month. Sorry it can't be sooner!
I swear every car I’ve owned ends up with a blown head gasket.
wouldent this be a cracked head? not the block?
MATTSMOTORZ,
1.)the actual leakdown test tool You set the air compressor to 100psi, the left meter on the leakdown test tool should measure 100psi and the right meter should measure 0% to 20% of leakage for a good cylinder?
2.) You take out all the spark plugs out of the engine and rotate the crank until you get TDC values closed for that cylinder. Next you use an adapter hose to connect it to the leakdown test tool to measure the leakage of the cylinder and listen to any "Hissing" from the dipstick pipe, Hissing from the exhaust pipe/exhaust valve, Hissing from the headgasket, or bubbles from the cars radiator coolant has bubbles?
excelente trabajo amigo thanks for learn us
I just purchased one of these OTC leak down tester.
Do you really think you got the tester tight enough in the spark plug hole by just turning the hose? Is there an adapter available?
Yes absolutely. It doesn't take too much. Twisting the hose has always been enough.
yes it would be tight enough their is an o-ring which i personally put a bit of oil.
would doing this test on junyard motor be a good idea? I mean it would suck swapping a junyard motor, and doing all that work just to find out the motor is junk.
Yes it would! You would just need to bring a source of compressed air with you to the junk yard.
MattsMotorz awesome thanks
was that really tdc thinking not. inlet valve prob still slightly open allowing this air leakage .but yes definately bubbling happening
+Daryl Hawes It WAS TDC. Even if by chance I was slightly off, the inlet valve wouldn't be anywhere near opening since the next phase in the 4 stroke cycle would be exhaust, and that would be after the piston goes all the way down first.
I changed my intake manifold my spark plugs and the spark plug wires and both of my ignition coils and the car is still shaking with a rough idle what can I do to fix that problem
What's the song called @4:43?? TY :D
Leakage detected thru crankcase. Tech suggested new engine. Any idea what the problem is??
Piston rings. It means the cylinder bores in the block are worn to a point where it is compromising compression. The answer is indeed a new engine (or a rebuild).
MattsMotorz I guess all four pistons were messed up?? The dealer installed new engine. Under warranty. Hyundai.
MattsMotorz the compression test revealed low compression in cylinder #4 of a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder.
It only takes 1. Having one piston bad messed up how well the engine runs, and also causes damage.
MattsMotorz wow. Glad I didn't have to pay the $5500 repair bill. No other way around a 1/2 ass fix?
your suppose to turn it all the way to 100% to get a correct leakage amount
Piston must be top or down?
top dead center on the compression stroke
awesome
What if the head gasket is bad how u check that with this and engine is out
If the head gasket is bad you would get leaking air through the coolant passages and possibly even between cylinders.
that's not 20 percent is it? once on 40 and the other is at 50
you are reading the gauge wrong. this gauge shows the psi on both gauges. the second gauge is also psi and is NOT a percent reading
The 50 psi is the input. The 40 psi is the output. (air into engine) So, 20% x 50= 10 50-10= 40. =20% leakage.
@@maximocastro6417 ...I do not speak spanish. Looks like you come up with the same answer.....20%
@@DMJ160 or 50-40=10. 10 ÷50=.2
.2x100=20 %. Same result just showing it different.
C