I worked on tractor trailers a few years back. I got to know pretty quick which wire went to what, but for the life of me couldn't remember which turn signal was green and which was yellow. Till one day a coworker told me a little gem! Yellow has a L in it, therefore it's the Left turn signal. Green has an R in it, therefore it's the Right turn signal. Blew my freaking mind lol. Cheers!
Yeah, don't follow that, always check because people love to just wire shit however they feel like, I've had to rewire trailer plugs many times because of this.
@@ericthecarguy Also for you power boaters, nautical nerds, and barge captains, green is always right and the red is the left. Kind of like port and starboard....port and left both have 4 letters, leaving starboard being the right side. I'll keep the day job. I really like your addition of the circuit breaker....makes total sense to me. I spent the extra cash on one of the Tekonsha P3 units. Apparnetly these units need to be installed perfectly level on the underdash area.
Eric, i really want to thank you for not starting this how to with music and i had my volume all the way up when it started. your a good man sir. great how to.
The reason it makes the 'wierd" sound is the brake controller is putting out power that is pulse width modulated. This is basically power pulsed at a certain frequency, it varies the amount of time on verses off to vary the braking power. So basically more on vs off time per pulse = more braking power.
Roooogerrr!! Every "switching" or "switch mode" power supply has some sorta PWM controller in it. A very mature technology. I worked on 'em in the late eighties and they were old by then.
@@silasmarner7586 I remember in the olden days of ham radio switching supplies had the reputation for something to the effect of "always within a half cycle of blowing your rig" I can't remember the exact vernacular but. Man that was ages ago. Before many of the components were mature tech. No protection circuits etc.
as a former installer , my experience with the self tappers you used to mount the 7 round bracket will rust out in 1 year in ohio salt .no not the bumper its the screws themselves that rust and the heads fall off. i found actually using a regular bolt and nut just like the ones you used to mount the 7 round itself onto that bracket works well , but pop rivets work best! the only thing i'd like to add is for diy people NEVER drill into your hitch ! never weld brackets on it as well! you compromise the structure of the hitch and will fail after a few winters.
I like those solder filled shrink tubes. I`ve used them a few times and should use them more but after so many years of joining wires with solder then shrink tubing the joint its tough to change ones ways. Heres a tip for anyone: for a good long lasting rust free ground connection once the ring terminal is secured to your ground apply some paint or a rubberized rock guard over the terminal. I did this to my trailer and had to remove the ground connection 5 years later and the connector and frame were shiny clean still.
That's an excellent suggestion, and interestingly enough, I thought about going back and shooting that scene and adding it to the video. I didn't to save time. Thanks for your input.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I will use what you have shown here on all my wiring work. Double checking all connections and conduit covering will save you from future problems. As always stay dirty.
How to Install and Connect a Trailer Brake Controller By Eric the Car Guy Questions 1. I was a bit concerned that the power going to the brake controller was momentary, yet the power leading to the trailer connector was fused. Then, I saw the schematic and it showed the red wire was for auxiliary power. 2. The blue wire is the power wire for the brakes. Therefore, the ground to Vehicle wire, and the ground to Trailer wire (both White) are essential if you want to have brakes. I know you didn’t have a trailer handy, but people should know how important that the white wire is securely grounded to the trailer. 3. Did you discover why your back-up light connection was weak (purple wire)? The diagram shows that the wire can be used for back up lights or a Hydraulic Coupler. Either one of those would not work well with inadequate voltage. 4. This was an excellent video. The quality of the install and the emphasis on safety were superb.
S Hopkins I think ALL electrical connections are different in USA from Europe. Be it household or automotive. (Not to mention terminology of parts and components I’ve heard used on wheeler dealers)
Once you puncture or create an entry for the blade of the seam ripper, flip it over so the ball side goes inside and you won't have to worry about cutting wires when you run it down the rest of the tape you want to cut out.
this was the perfect install video. I just bought everything in this video to do my install. I have a 93 3/4 ton, sucks it didn’t come with the z82 trailer package I would t be doing this.
i haven't watched the video yet .....but i'm thanking you now because i know it's going to be good!!!!!just bought a trailer for my bikes and it has elec brakes.
I agree on those suitcase connectors but inside the cab it should be fine ? On our construction trucks if we had to make a emergency repair ON THE OUTSIDE we used them. But we globbed the hell out of them with RTV. Usually it turned into being a permanent repair, LOL.
@@NoWr2Run everytime i encountered them, i have had problems. It's the way they make connection: by ripping through part of the strands of the wire. It looses strength and if the wire moves a bit , it breaks over time.
Yep those scotch connectors are trash, many vehicle wiring issues can be traced to one or several of those things somewhere in the wiring harness that people use when they hack into the harness to add crap instead of just doing it right and running new wires and using the proper connectors.
@@ericthecarguy at 29:38, you pressed the brake and said nothing was happening. Did you figure out that you needed a trailer connected to have it do something? I'm at that point and don't have access to a trailer to find out. I've used a multimeter, and everything checks out. Thanks man!
Amazing install eric, very professional and i love the attention to detail. :-D. You have made sure that the wiring is protected and every connection has a low resistance for the best result. The earth being a common problem for a high resistance (All lights flashing when indicators are on) won't be a problem for you ever :-D. I've had those days where wiring in a traylor socket just becomes a nightmare, the confused brain days. Mixed up old/new uk standards doesn't help eather :-(
Having a fancy 'test light' like my PowerProbe really helps. Not only can you identify power and ground, but you can also supply power and ground, or earth, when needed. Makes testing and finding circuits much easier. Thanks for the comment.
I appreciate your video Sir. I’m having to do the same thing to my 95s 2500 Silverado because I just bought a 20 foot car hauler in my truck was not equipped with that seven pin connector. Very awesome video very descriptive very informative much appreciated and I can tell you and I have about the same mindset when it comes to paying attention to detail and doing it right the first time so awesome thanks a lot take care
Eric, You are so good brother, thank you for this video, I bought a E250 with trailer brake control and but the signal light is not come on when I press the brake. I will redo the installation and all checkup the wires. From this video I will try to find the problem, thank you so much and MAY GOD BLESS YOU. you are the best brother.
As always, another amazing video by Eric the Car Guy! a project ive been tryna get done the last couple of years. Ive got the parts, and you just gave me the know how. Thanks Eric! keep them great videos going
Luckily for me I have a later model GMT400 Yukon, and most of the later model GMT400's were prewired with all 7 wires tucked above the spare tire (or against the driver rear frame rail). From there just splice them into the trailer connector of your choice. The power and brake wire are taped up by the frame under the master cylinder area, A blue wire (brake signal) and an orange wire (power wire). The orange wire usually has a ring terminal on it already and you just attach it to the AUX post A or B on the fuse box which are already 30 AMP fused. Then the blue wire just goes to the brake controller, so installing my brake controller was super easy.
Most new/newer vehicles that can tow are pre-wired for a brake controller. It took me 5 minutes to install the brake controller on my 05 and 08 Toyota Tundra pickups, both were pre-wired and had the pigtail connector for the brake controller in the glove box, just hook it up and plug it in.
It's a weird noise when testing the brake on the 7-way connector because the voltage will change based on boost level, how hard the brake pedal is pressed, and vehicle inertia.
Hello, thanks in advance for the helpfull video, quick question, Wouldn't the brake controller always be on? Or did you install a relay for it to be power when the ignition switch is on?
Something is draining my cars battery.. yes I have a trickle charger that I am sure of but between 2 different mechanics one installed the trailer’s breaking system and one to install the trickle charger for the towing vehicle (personal car) and another installation which I forgot to mention of the replacement of my 6/7 way plug. So about every 2 hours I have to pull over and start the car and let it run. Where do I start in troubleshooting? Any and all suggestions advise or direction is greatly appreciated. Great video
I get to do all this on my 86 K20 in near future, think have nearly same parts you used, with exception of a smaller 7 pin that uses an adapter for the 4-pin use.. I get to do mine in the dirt on the ground.. glad a 4x4 anyhow, little room,, Just bought car hauler and putting new brakes into that and be ready to score some deals this summer..
You can put dome nuts on the underside, specifically the locknut kind, so they don't ever fall out. And if you spring for it, there's stainless steel. Adding a little bit of silicone on the rim will also seal it permanently.
i live in the UK, different trailer plug/socket & different braking system , but still found this interesting .. BTW the bolts sticking through the wheelarch, just take a grinder & cut off the exposed threads
I don't think I need to worry about the bolts as they sit in a recess in the wheel arch. I don't think there's any danger of contact with the tire in my case, but I felt it was worth mentioning to others that might be doing the same thing. Thanks for the comment.
Could you please do a video on battery options/ care when not running a car for a long time? Eg: trickle charge vs those things that screw the negative wire down. Any tips tricks you have? Heading into winter here and will not be using a car for a while. Thanks!
i was going to wire mine up just like this.. but lucked out and found a factory tow package body harness for 25 bucks... probably took alot more time to install, but hey, it works and im all setup. Now to fix the minor issue of not actually owning a trailer... hmmm
@@wildbill23c fore sure. no random wires around and what not. separate relay for battery + on the 7 pin, my rear harness and the dash harness was already setup. it was just the underhood harness that wasn't. so plug and play brake controller for the truck now!
Based off the wiring diagram, the brake controller power is directly to the battery. Does this mean that controller will kill you battery when the vehicle is off?
You talked about having to mount the brake controller level because it uses inertia to control the brakes. In which the previous post stated that power pulse is width modulated, the harder you hit the brakes in the truck, the more inertia is felt by the controller and applies a longer power pulse to the brakes on the trailer
Did you use the fuzzy fleece tape on that loom? That is made for interior harnessing. Although Ford does use it inside doors where it gets wet. They make some better exterior grade Tesa tape that holds up in Ohio much better. It is like Kevlar. Mopar uses it on the newer FCA vehicles.
I take it your truck was an older throttle body? I am not for sure on those but on the 5.7 vortecs, suburban, 1500s, etc. The 7 wires are independently installed from factory. They are usually behind the license plate area. Under the hood there is a blue and orange wire for 12v and brakes. They are wadded up and have to be untangled. Pretty cool for chevy. I also have a 03 1/2 ton that had 8 wires by the fuel tank for an in bed mounted 5th wheel. The eighth wire is for 3rd brake light. Kinda cool too except why would you use a 1/2 ton to pull a 5th wheel? I use the power wire for a bait tank.
I have had problems with the auto resetting fuses. If a fault happens on the trailer (or truck itself ) it will reset over and over heating the wire. I was lucky enough to have the truck off when the always on power line shorted so it killed the battery before severe damage happened. The wire was destroyed along with wires in the loom. What I have been doing since is putting a 35- 40 amp fuse in line with the 30 amp resetting fuse/breaker. The fuse will not blow on the first couple to few resets but eventually will heat up and break the circuit until you can look into the problem. It addresses both the hope that the brakes have a second chance, and the long term heating problem. I use this same setup on both the brakes and the always on 12v source pin.
Awesome install, onboard all the way, clean common sense thorough approach, rounded the last corner heading to the finish line, down to the last hurdle, then scotch connector 😖 Whyyyyyyyyy.................. Peace Out.......& Beyonder
My 2014 Sedona has a TBC and I have installed LED lights in all outer sockets. I put CAN-bus decoders on the low-beams and have mounted load equalizers to the rear turn signals. I am still experiencing hyper flash. I noticed that someone took the fuse out of the engine bay for what I assume is for the TBC. I also noticed splicing previously done on my turn signals and I haven’t traced them back yet, but if I had to guess I would say they are leading to the seven way in the back. Could this be causing the hyper flash? I could use some advice here and will probably need to find a way to better mount my load equalizers since they are less than a half an inch from both other wiring and the plastic tail light assembly. Buying this car has been an electrical nightmare so far.
I just use the adapter that plugs into the 7 way plug. I install 7 way plugs on all my trailers, its a much more secure connection than a slide together plug, less likely to come unplugged with a 7 way...I had a 4 way plug come unplugged on my atv trailer and had no idea, drug that thing all the way back home, so by the time i got home I just had wires dragging the plug itself was completely gone LOL...so ever sense that happened I just use 7 way plugs regardless as the 7 way receptacle has a retainer that keeps the plug connected once you let go of the cover.
Many later GMT-400 trucks are pre-wired for trailer brakes. Look for a pair of unused orange and blue wires taped up near the fuse box on the Driver's front wheel well. They're terminated just above the spare tire in the rear of the truck. All GMT-800 and later trucks are also pre-wired.
I've watched this because i was planning on wiring my 94 f-150 but now i realize it is way beyond my capability. got any suggestions as to reputable places to get this done? i live in Parkersburg WV Thanks
I don't think I've seen a trailer with back-up lights. Is that what your reverse wire powered? I'm going to use that wire to turn on my back-up camera for when I'm hooking up the trailer
I full agree with "How you done this" except for the mounting of the trailer brake controller itself You will need it with a 1/2 ton carrying a heavy load on the trailer. You will have to use it alot when the road conditions are Not very good like snow and rain for a controlled stop or slowing. It should be closer to you where it isn't hard to reach for it.
i have a 98 k1500. Can that blue wire be used for the 3rd brake light on a camper/topper shell? Can that orange wire be used to run camper auxiliary lights in the camper/topper shell?
Hey Eric so from the aux side of the auto circuit breaker to the brake controler which wire of the controller goes to the aux side of the circuit breaker?
You should think about removing one of your license plate lights and put the plug in that location. For me that is the best location to keep it protected and easily accessed.
That's where the receptacle is located on my 88 F250, great location out of the way and very well protected from being damaged. I ripped the factory receptacle off my 08 Tundra because of the stupid mounting location from the factory hanging down below the bumper to get ripped off on a trail or road obstacles.
Is so good 👍 to know how install the trailers brake light on your dad truck you have done a good 👍 job on the truck 🚛 I love ❤️ your video 📷 the are the best ones I just can't wait for the next video 📷 and your dad truck 🚛 is very clean 🛁 #EricTheCarGuy
I think we all wanna know ... how many times did you swear at a hitch while rubbing your head before you decided start putting them in upside down? Great video as always! Hope you're keeping well!
Hey off topic but when I cut off my 98 accord ex 5mt 146k miles it kind of rumbles 3 or 4 times before motor fully stops. It had a timing belt put on 5k ago I've owned it for 1k(your fault/inspiration). Does that sound like ignition timing or just something to ignore?
It would be helpful if you showed how to set the settings on B, B1, B2, & B3 positions but I think the adjustment wheel is not settable for the different B settings. I think you only adjust the intensity wheel once and the various B settings are automatically adjusted B1 being the lowest breaking and B3 being the highest breaking leve. I have the same break controller you have and I usually use the B1 setting in town and in slow stop and go traffic. When on the interstates or mountains I usually have the B setting on B3 for maximum trailer breaking. I think the controler has a deceleration sensor to help with the applied voltage to the controller.
Eric, Realistically, what is the most amount of weight the C/K 1500 should tow? I too have single cab, short box truck...except mine is a '97 K1500 with a 5.7 I know engine power, transmission, wheel base, and braking ability are all factors.
I think wheelbase would be the biggest factor. For me, I'm going to try and stay around 7000lbs and under. www.consumerreports.org/pickup-trucks/how-much-truck-do-you-need-to-tow-that-trailer/
I cleaned the door lock mechanism on the Driver's door of my motor home and sprayed it with white lithium grease and was stunned a few months later to see that the grease caused rust everywhere instead of protecting the bare metal. There was no rust where the grease didn't coat. I live in a sub-tropical zone in southeastern Louisiana. I thought maybe the lithium grease attracts condensation?
That's the cheap ass plastic crap that everyone buys because well its cheap. Mine on my truck is a metal cased receptacle and the plug on the trailer is metal as well. Haven't had any issues in 32 years with it. I also spray the terminals on the receptacle and plug with lithium grease too which keeps stuff from corroding.
Such a beautiful job you did. Of course, expect that any trailer you connect to it will be a rats nest mess that blows fuses and pops bulbs all over the place. Such is the ontology of trailer wiring.
I worked on tractor trailers a few years back. I got to know pretty quick which wire went to what, but for the life of me couldn't remember which turn signal was green and which was yellow. Till one day a coworker told me a little gem!
Yellow has a L in it, therefore it's the Left turn signal.
Green has an R in it, therefore it's the Right turn signal.
Blew my freaking mind lol.
Cheers!
I love that! Thanks.
Yeah, don't follow that, always check because people love to just wire shit however they feel like, I've had to rewire trailer plugs many times because of this.
Green right yellow left I will never forget this!!!
Omg - you just saved me!
@@ericthecarguy Also for you power boaters, nautical nerds, and barge captains, green is always right and the red is the left. Kind of like port and starboard....port and left both have 4 letters, leaving starboard being the right side. I'll keep the day job. I really like your addition of the circuit breaker....makes total sense to me. I spent the extra cash on one of the Tekonsha P3 units. Apparnetly these units need to be installed perfectly level on the underdash area.
Eric, i really want to thank you for not starting this how to with music and i had my volume all the way up when it started. your a good man sir. great how to.
I prefer dielectric grease over white lithium, but it all does the same thing. Another great vid. 👍
The reason it makes the 'wierd" sound is the brake controller is putting out power that is pulse width modulated. This is basically power pulsed at a certain frequency, it varies the amount of time on verses off to vary the braking power. So basically more on vs off time per pulse = more braking power.
Roooogerrr!! Every "switching" or "switch mode" power supply has some sorta PWM controller in it. A very mature technology. I worked on 'em in the late eighties and they were old by then.
@@silasmarner7586 I remember in the olden days of ham radio switching supplies had the reputation for something to the effect of "always within a half cycle of blowing your rig" I can't remember the exact vernacular but. Man that was ages ago. Before many of the components were mature tech. No protection circuits etc.
Cool, thanks for the explanation!
as a former installer , my experience with the self tappers you used to mount the 7 round bracket will rust out in 1 year in ohio salt .no not the bumper its the screws themselves that rust and the heads fall off. i found actually using a regular bolt and nut just like the ones you used to mount the 7 round itself onto that bracket works well , but pop rivets work best! the only thing i'd like to add is for diy people NEVER drill into your hitch ! never weld brackets on it as well! you compromise the structure of the hitch and will fail after a few winters.
That's great info, thanks. This truck won't see winter again so I'm not as concerned, but you have a valid point. Thanks again.
they did that with my license plate screws. and they rusted in a year
Damn spray some oil on it.
I used dielectric grease. I'm fairly sure that it will come off on it's own, so it became a part of my regular maintenance routine.
Yeah but what if you made the receiver yourself. The whole damn thing is welded lol
I like those solder filled shrink tubes. I`ve used them a few times and should use them more but after so many years of joining wires with solder then shrink tubing the joint its tough to change ones ways. Heres a tip for anyone: for a good long lasting rust free ground connection once the ring terminal is secured to your ground apply some paint or a rubberized rock guard over the terminal. I did this to my trailer and had to remove the ground connection 5 years later and the connector and frame were shiny clean still.
That's an excellent suggestion, and interestingly enough, I thought about going back and shooting that scene and adding it to the video. I didn't to save time. Thanks for your input.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I will use what you have shown here on all my wiring work. Double checking all connections and conduit covering will save you from future problems. As always stay dirty.
Exactly. Thanks for the comment.
How to Install and Connect a Trailer Brake Controller
By Eric the Car Guy
Questions
1. I was a bit concerned that the power going to the brake controller was momentary, yet the power leading to the trailer connector was fused. Then, I saw the schematic and it showed the red wire was for auxiliary power.
2. The blue wire is the power wire for the brakes. Therefore, the ground to Vehicle wire, and the ground to Trailer wire (both White) are essential if you want to have brakes. I know you didn’t have a trailer handy, but people should know how important that the white wire is securely grounded to the trailer.
3. Did you discover why your back-up light connection was weak (purple wire)? The diagram shows that the wire can be used for back up lights or a Hydraulic Coupler. Either one of those would not work well with inadequate voltage.
4. This was an excellent video. The quality of the install and the emphasis on safety were superb.
A lift is a God sent for mods like this or any other job. Wish I had one.
Well didn't know the USA had different towing connectors to the UK/Europe. Learn something new every day.
S Hopkins I think ALL electrical connections are different in USA from Europe. Be it household or automotive. (Not to mention terminology of parts and components I’ve heard used on wheeler dealers)
My controller installation in a 2004 Sequoia was much simpler, but yours was so well done and documented that I had to watch the whole thing. Thanks.
Love how clean and organized that engine bay is.
Once you puncture or create an entry for the blade of the seam ripper, flip it over so the ball side goes inside and you won't have to worry about cutting wires when you run it down the rest of the tape you want to cut out.
Great tip!
You are the man, Eric. I love the care you took into the install. Great quality sound and video too. There should be a two thumbs up button.
this was the perfect install video. I just bought everything in this video to do my install. I have a 93 3/4 ton, sucks it didn’t come with the z82 trailer package I would t be doing this.
Thank you. I've been wanting to get to this project on my '79 Dodge Van. That's going to be one of the next upgrades I do.
It is fun to watch you do what i do every day at work.
How'd I do?
@@ericthecarguy
The only thing I would have told you to do different, was to use bonded 2 wire to run to the back to make it easier.
Etrailer is my go to for towing info
I looked and looked and looked… FINALLY found your vid. ETCG comes through again! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
i haven't watched the video yet .....but i'm thanking you now because i know it's going to be good!!!!!just bought a trailer for my bikes and it has elec brakes.
Nice tip with the seam ripper! Hate those squeeze on connectors with a passion though.
I agree on those suitcase connectors but inside the cab it should be fine ? On our construction trucks if we had to make a emergency repair ON THE OUTSIDE we used them. But we globbed the hell out of them with RTV. Usually it turned into being a permanent repair, LOL.
@@NoWr2Run everytime i encountered them, i have had problems. It's the way they make connection: by ripping through part of the strands of the wire. It looses strength and if the wire moves a bit , it breaks over time.
Yep those scotch connectors are trash, many vehicle wiring issues can be traced to one or several of those things somewhere in the wiring harness that people use when they hack into the harness to add crap instead of just doing it right and running new wires and using the proper connectors.
Eric, another outstanding video........as usual of course! Stay healthy my friend!
Thank you!
@@ericthecarguy at 29:38, you pressed the brake and said nothing was happening. Did you figure out that you needed a trailer connected to have it do something? I'm at that point and don't have access to a trailer to find out. I've used a multimeter, and everything checks out. Thanks man!
Thank you Eric I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
Dude, this is so awesome and helpful. I'm doing the same job this weekend ... on my 1990 chevy truck! So super helpful.
Amazing install eric, very professional and i love the attention to detail. :-D.
You have made sure that the wiring is protected and every connection has a low resistance for the best result.
The earth being a common problem for a high resistance (All lights flashing when indicators are on) won't be a problem for you ever :-D.
I've had those days where wiring in a traylor socket just becomes a nightmare, the confused brain days.
Mixed up old/new uk standards doesn't help eather :-(
Having a fancy 'test light' like my PowerProbe really helps. Not only can you identify power and ground, but you can also supply power and ground, or earth, when needed. Makes testing and finding circuits much easier. Thanks for the comment.
I appreciate your video Sir. I’m having to do the same thing to my 95s 2500 Silverado because I just bought a 20 foot car hauler in my truck was not equipped with that seven pin connector. Very awesome video very descriptive very informative much appreciated and I can tell you and I have about the same mindset when it comes to paying attention to detail and doing it right the first time so awesome thanks a lot take care
Eric, You are so good brother, thank you for this video, I bought a E250 with trailer brake control and but the signal light is not come on when I press the brake. I will redo the installation and all checkup the wires. From this video I will try to find the problem, thank you so much and MAY GOD BLESS YOU. you are the best brother.
Thank you Eric... The video took me through step by step installation on my 2001 Chevy Astro Van...
Completed the same on a 1988 Astro myself based on this video.
As always, another amazing video by Eric the Car Guy! a project ive been tryna get done the last couple of years. Ive got the parts, and you just gave me the know how. Thanks Eric! keep them great videos going
Oh I'm so happy I found this I've been looking for a video on this everywhere. ECTG is the man!
Luckily for me I have a later model GMT400 Yukon, and most of the later model GMT400's were prewired with all 7 wires tucked above the spare tire (or against the driver rear frame rail). From there just splice them into the trailer connector of your choice. The power and brake wire are taped up by the frame under the master cylinder area, A blue wire (brake signal) and an orange wire (power wire). The orange wire usually has a ring terminal on it already and you just attach it to the AUX post A or B on the fuse box which are already 30 AMP fused. Then the blue wire just goes to the brake controller, so installing my brake controller was super easy.
Most new/newer vehicles that can tow are pre-wired for a brake controller. It took me 5 minutes to install the brake controller on my 05 and 08 Toyota Tundra pickups, both were pre-wired and had the pigtail connector for the brake controller in the glove box, just hook it up and plug it in.
Just had.to buy power probe 3 after watching this. Will be moving controller from old truckk to new thanks.
Great video as always.
I like the music.
BTW you should be teaching. Younger generations can learn a lot from you.
Always good to see Eric at work....and delivering it to us in HD. Stay dirty and healthy!
It's a weird noise when testing the brake on the 7-way connector because the voltage will change based on boost level, how hard the brake pedal is pressed, and vehicle inertia.
Thank you for the video. Very well explained and very helpful in my case.
Hello, thanks in advance for the helpfull video, quick question, Wouldn't the brake controller always be on? Or did you install a relay for it to be power when the ignition switch is on?
Thank you for the video and the links to the parts. Really helpful.
Something is draining my cars battery.. yes I have a trickle charger that I am sure of but between 2 different mechanics one installed the trailer’s breaking system and one to install the trickle charger for the towing vehicle (personal car) and another installation which I forgot to mention of the replacement of my 6/7 way plug. So about every 2 hours I have to pull over and start the car and let it run. Where do I start in troubleshooting? Any and all suggestions advise or direction is greatly appreciated.
Great video
I get to do all this on my 86 K20 in near future, think have nearly same parts you used, with exception of a smaller 7 pin that uses an adapter for the 4-pin use.. I get to do mine in the dirt on the ground.. glad a 4x4 anyhow, little room,, Just bought car hauler and putting new brakes into that and be ready to score some deals this summer..
I even have a similar circuit tester just bought and get to try out n review.. the 25' of cable on it will be welcome...
Very nice detailed demonstration and informative installation video Eric @Ericthecarguy
Very careful, thoughtful, clean install. Nicely done.
You can put dome nuts on the underside, specifically the locknut kind, so they don't ever fall out. And if you spring for it, there's stainless steel. Adding a little bit of silicone on the rim will also seal it permanently.
i live in the UK, different trailer plug/socket & different braking system , but still found this interesting .. BTW the bolts sticking through the wheelarch, just take a grinder & cut off the exposed threads
I don't think I need to worry about the bolts as they sit in a recess in the wheel arch. I don't think there's any danger of contact with the tire in my case, but I felt it was worth mentioning to others that might be doing the same thing. Thanks for the comment.
great video eric thank very so much it has helped me a lot thanks to you
Great job Eric! Thanks for sharing this!
Best video yet.on wiring brakes..super nice truck
That's a nice pickup Eric, well done.
Could you please do a video on battery options/ care when not running a car for a long time? Eg: trickle charge vs those things that screw the negative wire down. Any tips tricks you have? Heading into winter here and will not be using a car for a while. Thanks!
Start it up and drive it around for a while once a month.
So hard to find someone actually explaining this not to mention doing it well
Thanks for the detailed and very helpful videos!
i was going to wire mine up just like this.. but lucked out and found a factory tow package body harness for 25 bucks... probably took alot more time to install, but hey, it works and im all setup. Now to fix the minor issue of not actually owning a trailer... hmmm
Longer install time, but its the proper way to do it in the long run.
@@wildbill23c fore sure. no random wires around and what not. separate relay for battery + on the 7 pin, my rear harness and the dash harness was already setup. it was just the underhood harness that wasn't. so plug and play brake controller for the truck now!
Based off the wiring diagram, the brake controller power is directly to the battery. Does this mean that controller will kill you battery when the vehicle is off?
I got lucky on my ‘95 F-250. It came prewired for trailer brakes. Bought the plug and play connectors from Curt
You talked about having to mount the brake controller level because it uses inertia to control the brakes. In which the previous post stated that power pulse is width modulated, the harder you hit the brakes in the truck, the more inertia is felt by the controller and applies a longer power pulse to the brakes on the trailer
You can also adjust braking force at the controller itself.
Did you use the fuzzy fleece tape on that loom? That is made for interior harnessing. Although Ford does use it inside doors where it gets wet. They make some better exterior grade Tesa tape that holds up in Ohio much better. It is like Kevlar. Mopar uses it on the newer FCA vehicles.
I take it your truck was an older throttle body? I am not for sure on those but on the 5.7 vortecs, suburban, 1500s, etc. The 7 wires are independently installed from factory. They are usually behind the license plate area. Under the hood there is a blue and orange wire for 12v and brakes. They are wadded up and have to be untangled. Pretty cool for chevy. I also have a 03 1/2 ton that had 8 wires by the fuel tank for an in bed mounted 5th wheel. The eighth wire is for 3rd brake light. Kinda cool too except why would you use a 1/2 ton to pull a 5th wheel? I use the power wire for a bait tank.
Great job! I would kill for a nice shop and lift!
Thanks for sharing Eric👍
Love your work👨🏻🔧
Really informative for installing this setup👍
Stay safe Bro❤
Thank you! You be safe too!
I have had problems with the auto resetting fuses. If a fault happens on the trailer (or truck itself ) it will reset over and over heating the wire. I was lucky enough to have the truck off when the always on power line shorted so it killed the battery before severe damage happened. The wire was destroyed along with wires in the loom. What I have been doing since is putting a 35- 40 amp fuse in line with the 30 amp resetting fuse/breaker. The fuse will not blow on the first couple to few resets but eventually will heat up and break the circuit until you can look into the problem. It addresses both the hope that the brakes have a second chance, and the long term heating problem. I use this same setup on both the brakes and the always on 12v source pin.
Interesting. Great info. Thank you.
My dad had this happen also towing his boat.
Just ordered the Power Probe via your link. Thanks for sharing!
It's probably the most useful electrical tool I have.
That engine is a thing of beauty. What all did you throw in there for power? I need to beef up my 1500 Sierra 2WD for hauling a big camper.
Awesome install, onboard all the way, clean common sense thorough approach, rounded the last corner heading to the finish line, down to the last hurdle, then scotch connector 😖 Whyyyyyyyyy..................
Peace Out.......& Beyonder
Been using seam rippers for wiring for decades
My 2014 Sedona has a TBC and I have installed LED lights in all outer sockets. I put CAN-bus decoders on the low-beams and have mounted load equalizers to the rear turn signals. I am still experiencing hyper flash. I noticed that someone took the fuse out of the engine bay for what I assume is for the TBC. I also noticed splicing previously done on my turn signals and I haven’t traced them back yet, but if I had to guess I would say they are leading to the seven way in the back. Could this be causing the hyper flash? I could use some advice here and will probably need to find a way to better mount my load equalizers since they are less than a half an inch from both other wiring and the plastic tail light assembly. Buying this car has been an electrical nightmare so far.
Did I hear you say “I’m going to run that wire through my wiring harness” 🤯🤯
That truck is so awesome.
I love these videos I need to buy the 7 way/4 plug for my Chevrolet it only came with 7 way
That should be easy to hook up since you already have a 7 way run.
If your 7 way is good, I've seen adapters that will allow you to plug a 4 way into the 7 way.
Yea I have the adapter just want it all in one like eric
I just use the adapter that plugs into the 7 way plug. I install 7 way plugs on all my trailers, its a much more secure connection than a slide together plug, less likely to come unplugged with a 7 way...I had a 4 way plug come unplugged on my atv trailer and had no idea, drug that thing all the way back home, so by the time i got home I just had wires dragging the plug itself was completely gone LOL...so ever sense that happened I just use 7 way plugs regardless as the 7 way receptacle has a retainer that keeps the plug connected once you let go of the cover.
Many later GMT-400 trucks are pre-wired for trailer brakes. Look for a pair of unused orange and blue wires taped up near the fuse box on the Driver's front wheel well. They're terminated just above the spare tire in the rear of the truck. All GMT-800 and later trucks are also pre-wired.
Good to know, thanks!
Truck? Call that a truck in Australia and you’d get laughed out of the pub... and let’s not get started on “thongs”. Gotta love the different lingo.
I've watched this because i was planning on wiring my 94 f-150 but now i realize it is way beyond my capability. got any suggestions as to reputable places to get this done? i live in Parkersburg WV Thanks
I don't think I've seen a trailer with back-up lights. Is that what your reverse wire powered? I'm going to use that wire to turn on my back-up camera for when I'm hooking up the trailer
great video eric. wiring can be tricky.good job
Thanks Eric,, your videos are so helpful
I just put a 4l80e in mine over the 4l60e since I already had a 700r4 and I must say the 4l80e transmissions are waaaaay better
Great job and super great info.
On the 4pin harness that looks like a “T”, did you clip the plugs and join them, on the part that goes to the 7 pin connector?
Good informational video Eric🤝👍
I full agree with "How you done this" except for the mounting of the trailer brake controller itself You will need it with a 1/2 ton carrying a heavy load on the trailer. You will have to use it alot when the road conditions are Not very good like snow and rain for a controlled stop or slowing. It should be closer to you where it isn't hard to reach for it.
Thanks for breaking it down
Nice installation Eric. I'm sure over the years you've seen some real butcher jobs done when it comes to the installations of the hitch and wiring.
If I had a dime for every install with a bundle of those scotch locks under the bed… well, I’d have a big ass pile of dimes.
i have a 98 k1500.
Can that blue wire be used for the 3rd brake light on a camper/topper shell?
Can that orange wire be used to run camper auxiliary lights in the camper/topper shell?
Hey Eric so from the aux side of the auto circuit breaker to the brake controler which wire of the controller goes to the aux side of the circuit breaker?
You should think about removing one of your license plate lights and put the plug in that location. For me that is the best location to keep it protected and easily accessed.
Because the connector is so wide, it really won't fit in that area. Thanks for the suggestion.
That's where the receptacle is located on my 88 F250, great location out of the way and very well protected from being damaged. I ripped the factory receptacle off my 08 Tundra because of the stupid mounting location from the factory hanging down below the bumper to get ripped off on a trail or road obstacles.
GREAT VIDEO ERIC
Is so good 👍 to know how install the trailers brake light on your dad truck you have done a good 👍 job on the truck 🚛 I love ❤️ your video 📷 the are the best ones I just can't wait for the next video 📷 and your dad truck 🚛 is very clean 🛁 #EricTheCarGuy
I think we all wanna know ... how many times did you swear at a hitch while rubbing your head before you decided start putting them in upside down?
Great video as always! Hope you're keeping well!
Nice touch with the background music 👍
Hey off topic but when I cut off my 98 accord ex 5mt 146k miles it kind of rumbles 3 or 4 times before motor fully stops. It had a timing belt put on 5k ago I've owned it for 1k(your fault/inspiration). Does that sound like ignition timing or just something to ignore?
Any thoughts on that controller? Recommended?
It would be helpful if you showed how to set the settings on B, B1, B2, & B3 positions but I think the adjustment wheel is not settable for the different B settings. I think you only adjust the intensity wheel once and the various B settings are automatically adjusted B1 being the lowest breaking and B3 being the highest breaking leve.
I have the same break controller you have and I usually use the B1 setting in town and in slow stop and go traffic. When on the interstates or mountains I usually have the B setting on B3 for maximum trailer breaking.
I think the controler has a deceleration sensor to help with the applied voltage to the controller.
Eric,
Realistically, what is the most amount of weight the C/K 1500 should tow? I too have single cab, short box truck...except mine is a '97 K1500 with a 5.7 I know engine power, transmission, wheel base, and braking ability are all factors.
I think wheelbase would be the biggest factor. For me, I'm going to try and stay around 7000lbs and under. www.consumerreports.org/pickup-trucks/how-much-truck-do-you-need-to-tow-that-trailer/
I cleaned the door lock mechanism on the Driver's door of my motor home and sprayed it with white lithium grease and was stunned a few months later to see that the grease caused rust everywhere instead of protecting the bare metal. There was no rust where the grease didn't coat. I live in a sub-tropical zone in southeastern Louisiana. I thought maybe the lithium grease attracts condensation?
Thank you Eric. Always love the vids
Well done Eric!
Thanks.
Your Dad gave you a legit truck…. now back to the video!
Shouldn't you use silicone grease to protect electrical connections from corrosion?
Woah. American trailer electrical connectors are craaaaaaaaaaaaap.
That's the cheap ass plastic crap that everyone buys because well its cheap. Mine on my truck is a metal cased receptacle and the plug on the trailer is metal as well. Haven't had any issues in 32 years with it. I also spray the terminals on the receptacle and plug with lithium grease too which keeps stuff from corroding.
Such a beautiful job you did. Of course, expect that any trailer you connect to it will be a rats nest mess that blows fuses and pops bulbs all over the place. Such is the ontology of trailer wiring.
Do you have a part number for the reset circet braker? My service sucks so im not able to watch the entire video but i really need that braker!