Ep 35 HOW-TO Walthers Weathered Modern Coaling Tower
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Completed for my PRR-B&O HO scale layout. Minor changes to simplify construction, weathering, painting, and adding some brass wire chute rods. Several tips that clarify or address issues in the instructions, as well as gluing, weathering, and airbrushing tips. Video length relates to the complexity of this kit, which has 9 parts sprues, many pulley\chute and stairs\walkway assemblies.
See Episode 48 for additional detail steps.
Product Information from Walthers website:
Based on an Ogle design, the Walthers Cornerstone Modern Coaling Tower will be a focal point in any engine terminal. As larger engines entered service, many railroads found their older coaling towers couldn't handle the increased demand. By the 1920s, railroads began contracting with outside firms to build new coaling towers. Concrete was the material of choice as it was easy to use, affordable, fireproof and weather proof. Towers like this were built in yards at servicing facilities as well as along the mainline to refuel engines on the road. This plastic model features realistic concrete walls plus detailed chutes and mechanisms. Like the prototype, it can serve three tracks at once, making it an ideal choice for maximizing service in minimum space. The same sturdy construction that made these towers appealing to railroads also made them hard to demolish. With its metal parts removed for scrap, the Modern Coaling Tower could still be standing in a contemporary scene, a reminder of how things used to be.
Based on a typical North American railroad structure
Serves three tracks
Includes coal delivery shed
Loaded with separate details
Includes decals signs
Molded in appropriate colors
Measures: Tower: 8-5/8 x 8-3/4 x 12-1/4" 21.5 x 21.8 x 30.6cm Dumphouse: 8-5/8 x 1-3/8 x 1-3/8" 21.5 x 3.4 x 3.4cm
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Have fun, thanks for watching, until next time take care and happy modeling!
Video and channel content is intended for an adult audience.
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Thank you for a great video , I found this model pretty complicated but after watching you build it has really hepled a U.K.modeller. The finished tower looks great
Glad it helped you!
Outstanding video and great tips/techniques! Thanks for sharing!
@@schadowolf Thank you.
Thanks so much for doing this. I just opened my kit last week. I reviewed the instructions and decided to see if there were any TH-cam videos or anything. There were not. I was confused about making the cuts and also doing the rigging. Now I am ready to proceed. Again, many thanks!
Please reach out if you have any questions. I skipped adding the rigging to the 4 'U' shaped pulley in the middle. Both sides (ends) are done. Let me know if you need more info or pictures. I may go back and add that in the future, but it looks fine without. The 2 outside track rigging are done as per instructions.
During your video you mentioned some sort of jig or something to help keep your walls square. Any suggestions? I have returned to the hobby after a 30+ year absence. I decided to retire! Thanks.
@@markgoodrich941 So here is a great place to shop for ideas. I have some clamps already, but the ones specific to corners is what I am after.
Good Place to start: www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/clamps
What I will probably buy: www.micromark.com/Original-Right-Clamp
@@mccarvillestudios Thanks. Three pages of clamps! That's quite a place. Thank you for the help.
@@markgoodrich941 Good luck, man. Let me know how it goes. I model quite a bit, but I also try and give back and help as much as I can. As long as you have a strong "troll-filter" on, the web is a great place to help, and get help. (My troll-filter is very strong!)
This video has been very helpful. I'm in the process of rigging the chutes and counterweights. I'm doing this before adding any of the ladders or railings. There was no way I would be able to thread them without breaking anything. I even ended up threading the bottom inside pulleys from the opposite direction and wrapping around them because I couldn't get the string in from the top. Anyway, I also used the Aged Concrete acrylic and had issues with paint coming off. I also had issues gluing painted parts. I had to re-glue three of the inside fixed chutes because they came off rather easier while I was trying to rig the chutes.
Yeah, I made some errors too, but I hide those goof ups, LOL.
Tamiya tape doesn't pull the paint off like blue tape does. It also tends to allow less bleeding under the edge.
I think the issue was the part was scrubbed very well, and the paint layer was thin. I will check out Tamiya tape too.
great job looks awesome ! thanks for sharing !
Thanks!
Favorite one yet
Thank you. Took sooooo much longer than I planned.
@@mccarvillestudios just makes it better right lol
Beautiful job, I love it!
Thanks much!
You mean a right clamp to hold the pieces together at a 90 degree angle while the glue sets? I've also used rubber bands to hold 4 wall sections together while glue was drying
Since the legs were 45 degrees pieces, the clamps worked okay, but I agree that a better solution needs to be found, like the 2 you suggest. Sometimes I get the pieces lined up, do a spot of ACC cement, then hold until dry and follow up with plastic cement. The ACC essentially just holds pieces in place while a better glue dries. Still, your suggestion is a much better one. I will look into it!
nice
Thanks Brad!
Just an FYI..your audio was really out of sync for the last few minutes of the video
Yes, and I am not sure what causes that, other than length. I am going to try another video editor on the next one. The Flamingo video started doing that at the end too, and it was only 30 minutes.